Hub/Bearing Removal/Installation loaner tool: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-hub-remover-and-installer-kit/ren1/67213 32mm Axle Nut Socket loaner tool: www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-axle-nut-socket/ren1/67039 -OR amzn.to/3dTz01K (affiliate*) Honda Bearing (44300-TR0-951) amzn.to/3n8com4 (affiliate*) -OR National Bearing (510089, can also be purchase at any local auto parts store) amzn.to/3HhPKPg (affiliate*) Breaker Bar: amzn.to/3yto7gh (affiliate*) Snap Ring Pliers: amzn.to/3eHsQ5l (affiliate*) Impact Wrench: amzn.to/2xIwjOn (affiliate*) Angle Grinder: amzn.to/2UOxd3X (affiliate*) Rubber Mallet: amzn.to/2RgjYbt (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Thanks for the links but there is no way I would attempt this. I can replace brakes and rotors. I never replaced a caliper but maybe could. I would never disconnect the Axel or anything like that. Thanks for the links though.
I’ve been trying to remove this piece for a few weeks, no shops near me would even attempts to help me. All I needed was that initial loaner tool. Thank you so much
Thanks for the video! Women can change our bearings correctly thanks to this video. I saved my daughter 500 dollars. I have to say without the loaner tools this could not have been done. Also an impact wrench is a must. Freezing the bearing worked out great too thank you again
That's awesome you saved $500! Yeah, the loaner tools are a life saver. If you had to buy that tool, I think it would have cost around $400. Thanks for the comment!
@@samanthacarlough6569 Cold temperature contract and heat expand metal. Freezing the wheel bearing too make the bearing slightly smaller to fit inside of the knuckle much easier. Heating the knuckle will get you the same result, but why? Put the bearing in the freezer overnight is much easier than use a torch to heat the knuckle, plus every time you use the torch, you might get something/yourself burn...
Great video, just got an ABS fault three days before my caravan holiday. Bearing is throwing out its grease. You made my life a lot easier replacing the bearing. Thank you!
Took my 13' Civic for an alignment but they couldn't do it because the front driver side bearing was bad. They said it wobbled so it messed with the lasers. They gave me an estimate of about $366 ($120/hr x 2hrs for labor, plus $80 for alignment, plus parts). I always wished I had a garage to work on my car and learn to fix things as I go, now even more so.
Thanks for the info, it's nice to see a price breakdown for having the bearing replaced by a mechanic. There's definitely a feeling satisfaction when you're able to perform a repair like this on your own. It's also a huge confidence builder for tackling the next project. However, it was probably hard to tell from the editing but, it took me a lot longer than 2 hours to do this myself. :) Thanks for the comment!
Thanks, I appreciate the comment! So far, I have over 80 videos on fixing stuff. My hope is that they'll be helpful to people tackling similar projects. The thing is, I'm not a pro on any of the topics I cover in my videos, I'm just a regular homeowner. Thanks for watching!
Good video. One point that is important, when reinstalling the axle nut, it must be torqued to the proper torque or you will shorten the life of the new bearing. cannot be to tight or to loose.
I completely agree. While I didn't have a torque wrench at the time, I tightened the axle nut back to the same spot where the edge was pounded into the groove to lock the nut in place. I know it's not an exact foot-pounds measurement, but it should be close to factory. Thanks for the comment!
thank you for that video. Today at September 19 2023 I paid for replacement Bearing and Hub 360$ (4.5hrs labor that what they count) for Honda Civic Coupe 2011 in Mt. Prospect Illinois. Without special tools it will be hard to make.
My 2017 needed all four wheel bearings at 100K miles. The front left was so noisy you couldn’t hear yourself think at highway speeds (my daughter had been driving it for the last 10k miles). It creeps up slowly and gets louder and louder so you don’t realize they are gone until they really start to howl. Even my front left wasn’t loose but it was a mess inside like yours. Great video. Helped me to tackle the other three.
@@Mikeattempts not sure about the Civics but my old Odyssey went 300K kilometres (186K miles) on the same set. My Mercedes CLS 550 and my Buick Enclave both needed new ones around 280K kilometres. The service shop that I got to do the first one said potholes and speed bumps do them in. My old VW’s all went >> 300K without needing work on the same roads. Cheap Chinese made parts I’m guessing.
@@steveburton8879 Yeah, it seems like they changed bearing suppliers to save a little money. It doesn't seem like it'd be worth the per car savings to tarnish a good name.
Thanks for this video. I rented the same puller tool at O'Reilly's. Success following your steps. I have ABS lights on... Will have to tackle that another time.
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful! Did you make sure the magnetic ABS encoder ring on the bearing went towards the inside (7:56)? I'm no pro but that's the only reason I can think of for the ABS light.
Awesome explanation of the removal and installation, would like to see how you set up the press tool next time, also the method you used to take off the stuck on bearing race was impressive 👍🏽
I really appreciate the kind words! Just to be clear though, I'm no pro. I'm just an average guy doing work on my own vehicles. Thanks for the comment!
Fantastic video! Very well done, well narrated, and a great job done. My tip I can offer is an easy way to determine which bearing is your culprit is while your driving at speed making the noise, sway back and forth left and right in the lane. One way will put the weight onto the bad bearing, not changing the noise or even making it sound worse, while the other way will take the weight off the bad bearing, lessening the noise. Unless you have 2 bad bearings.....lol. Then it probably sounds like straight up a jet engine at 50+mph 😂
@@Mikeattempts You're very welcome, a small thank you for making content like this. I'm 15 years in the business but only learned that trick myself 3 years ago from a Senior Mechanic Supervisor. You did a great job though, seriously. Don't listen to any of the armchair mechanics. You did 100x better on stands in your garage than I see any of them do on a day to day with full tools and equipment at their disposal 😂
Good video with detailed instructions. I can explain how that scoring on the inside of the bearing (end of video). That part of the bearing was at the 12-o-clock position. The grease broke down over the year's and couldn't coat all of the ball's in the bearing.
😮 Thank you, Mike, that was an excellent step-by-step video on how to change your wheelbarrow. It's gonna be a tremendous help to me, and i'm a female, so if a female can do it
Very Informative video .. I like how the camera was set up because it was very visual at the same time it was being explained .. Please Keep up the Good work! Thanks! 👍
My 2012 Civic with 112K miles making a humming noise just like yours. I did a shake down test and both wheels have no play. I spun the tires by hands, and hear no noise. Still don't know which side yet.
Did you check the rear wheels? I went back and forth a bunch of times, spinning the wheels, since the sound wasn't very obvious when doing it by hand. I wanted to be sure I was replacing the correct bearing. :)
@@Mikeattempts I believe the noise comes from front, and it starts above 20MPH. It a loud humming noise and it gets louder as speed increase. I also feel the noise from the passenger floor pan. I may need to wait until it's getting worse for definitive location. By the way, if you don't have a second person to step on the brake pedal, stick a screw driver in the slot of the rotor then you can spin the axle nut.
@@glenglene8473 Sounds like it's probably your front passenger side bearing then but I don't blame you for wanting to wait to be sure. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts I had the passenger bearing replaced yesterday. After cleaning up the bearing, I see it has pitting just like yours. Humming noise is gone.
@@glenglene8473 Thanks for the update! Hmmm... that makes me wonder if Honda changed bearing suppliers or had a bad batch because these bearings don't seem up to Honda standards.
Good video, you and I have the same methodology for working on these Hondas. One thing I did notice though. I had a 91 Honda Civic that had camber adjustment because of the way the arm connected to the shock. I have a 97 Honda Civic that Honda did away with that but instead uses a fork to the lower control arm. On my 21 Pilot there is no camber adjustment either. Interesting that yours does.
Watching all this makes me glad almost my entire fleet is solid axle, both front and back. Bearing work is a simple breeze compared with what you have to go through.
This is a great video great job. Only advice i can give anyone doing this job is to properly torque your axle nuts. If not torqued to spec your bearing can fail prematurely.
@9:27 after I remove this race bearing, do I need to install a new one ? Or can I go ahead and install the hub along with the new wheel bearing installed? Thank you for this video btw
The race that you hafta cut off of the shaft is half of the inner race of the old bearing. It's designed to split during removal. The new bearing already has everything you need. So, after cutting off the old race, just press in the new bearing then press in the hub.
Thanks! I have some other 2013 Civic videos (MTF change, air filters, wiper blades, etc.) and I plan to do more in the near future (spark plugs, antifreeze, etc.). Thanks for watching!
For what is this metal thing at 4:27 on the wishbone (near the ball joint), where it looks like there is a place for a bolt? For what its used? I´m asking cause there are wishbones with and without it.
@@che7973 Are you talking about the threaded hole directly below the rubber axel boot at 4:27? If so, I'm not sure what it's for, nothing was screwed into that hole.
Yes, i mean that hole on the control arm. At 4:31 it´s also in the middle of the picture. I´m guessing what it´s for when apparently it´s not used - can´t find any information about this @@Mikeattempts
Just did this job on both sides. Worked perfectly. One problem - It set off the ABS / VSA / Power steering nag warnings. So far every online "fix" has not worked resetting them. Honda and all their GD fussy kitty sensors.
Did you make sure the magnetic ABS encoder ring on the bearing went towards the inside (7:56)? I'm no pro but that's the only reason I can think of for the ABS light.
90 degree snap ring pliers work better for inside snap rings. The straight pliers create a slant that engourages the ring to slide off the tips. With the 90 degree pliers, the tips remain parallel.
@@Mikeattempts I thought the same. My LX has a CVT so I threw it into neutral while going down hill.. it was humming faster as I picked up speed. It's so sad because mine has 39000 miles on it and it's doing this.
@@cgmf-d6t Yeah, I was disappointed too, this is not typical for Honda quality. I was a bit concerned when I looked over the old bearing, there were no markings at all. Usually it would say "Japan" or have a part number. Who knows, maybe they changed bearing suppliers and they just aren't made as well.
@@Mikeattempts So odd ! Alot of companies are cheaping out on stuff these days. I had a word with honda and they said that wheel bearings are covered under drive train warranty..but they said if its user damage or wheels put improperly then it won't be covered...lol I know they want to crawl their way out of having to fix something that is clearly a manufacturing defect..a 4 year old car with 40k miles shouldn't have premature bearing failure especially when its completely stock!
Ah, I didn't realize it could possibly be covered under warranty, thanks for the info. Yeah, you shouldn't have any issues with a stock Honda at only 40k miles.
When breaking something loose, keep the breaker bar parallel to the ground, such that you're pushing straight down. Otherwise, you're literally not pushing down "with all your weight."
Correct. Good point. Here’s the formula for figuring he applied force in foot/pounds. Length of bar in feet X cosine of the angle X applied weight will give you the applied force. (If I remember correctly…seems like I do.)
My speedometer stop working after I hit a curb so I decided to replace the speed sensor, it worked for maybe 10 minutes then it stopped again. Someone recommended i replace the bearing and it would fix my issue? Any recommendations or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm no pro but, if your bearing sounds good, I don't think you need to replace it. From what I understand, there's an ABS speed sensor at each wheel but I think the sensor that controls the speedometer is attached to the side of the transmission. Again, I'm not a mechanic so I could be wrong. Maybe someone who knows more than me will chime in with a more confident answer. :)
Trust me, I was tempted! The tool I borrowed, from my local auto parts store's loaner program, specifically said NOT to use an impact wrench. The tool was around $400 so I didn't want to break it and then end up owning it. :)
Hello! At 10:17, I see that you cleaned and greased the axle shaft before putting it back into place. What type of grease did you use? Thank you for the detailed install, I plan on doing this in the next couple of days myself!
I used Lucas X-TRA but it's currently hard to find because of some additive shortage. You should be able to get Lucas Red-N-Tacky anywhere but really any grease should be fine.
ABS / VSA / Power Steering Warnings Fix - New LT Speed Sensor. Picked up Blue Driver Scan Tool. Found LT Speed Sensor was throwing a code. Replaced sensor and that fixed the dash lights & nag warning screens.
I did use a thin layer of grease on the outside of the bearing and the inside of the hub, but it probably didn't do anything except make me feel better. Since the bearing is an interference fit, all the grease would be wiped completely off of both surfaces by the time the bearing was fully seated.
Will be my first time changing this on my civic! question… so the inner race is apart of the bearing overall? and is there possibly another way that if it were to stick… to get it off without an angle grinder?
This was my first time too! Yep, the inner race is part of the bearing. The inner race is factory scored so it'll break away when removing the hub. If you don't have an angle grinder, you could also use a Dremel cutoff wheel, but it'll take longer. A good quality angle grinder is a great tool to have but if you're trying to keep costs low, you can get one from Harbor Freight for as low as $15.
Never done this before and I am watching this to hopefully learn how to do this on my 2015 Honda Fit someday soon, so correct me if I am wrong: Any reason why you didn't try an impact on the puller tool? It seems like that might have broken the bearing free easier than the breaker bar? Thanks for the video!!
This was my first time too so, if I can do it, so can you! I didn't use an impact on the puller because the instructions specifically said not to. Since it was a loaner tool, I didn't want to break it and then own a broken $400 tool. :)
The problem is that the instructions for the loaner tool specifically said not to use an impact wrench. I didn't want to risk breaking it and then owning a $400 broken tool. :)
A whole brand new wheel bearing hub assembly for a 2012-2015 Honda Civic costs about $35-$55 each depending on the quality of the part brand. That’s just slightly higher than the bearing by itself that requires a lot more work to replace. For a few bucks more you can replace the whole front wheel bearing hub assembly without all the extra work, or for a little more money you can replace the whole wheel and spindle assembly that again requires much less work than replacing just a single bearing with a bearing press/remover. Checkout this video link to see how much easier it is to just replace the whole bearing hub assembly. th-cam.com/users/shortsNo1UkqDeyaU?si=iY0yigd_hanwT8Rv
That's true, people have many options for this repair. However, a new genuine Honda front wheel bearing hub assembly is gonna cost more than that. Either way, I think if someone is willing to do this job themselves, cost is probably a factor.
Yeah, I didn't get into specifics because the tool works on multiple different vehicles, depending on which adapters are used. At 6:25, you can see which adapter sleeve (S) and spacer ring (U) I used to pull the bearing. The instructions that come with the tool explain everything well.
Just a question, why is it you doesn’t use bearing separator? I would likely need to replace my wheel bearing however i dont have grinder, im wondering if bearing separator will do the job instead of using grinder
I'm no pro but you might be able to use a bearing separator, but I think it would be difficult to get the plates behind the race since it's so tight against the hub. If the bearing separator won't work, you could use a hacksaw to cut the race, or you could pick up a cheap angle grinder at Harbor Fright for $15.
Great video! Might be going through something similar but still diagnosing. Did yours get louder at certain speeds then quiet down then get loud again? I.e. 25 loud 35 quiet 45 loud again?
Thanks! Mine seemed to get louder as the speed increased. I don't have enough experience to tell you that a bearing could fail in a way that would smooth out at certain speeds. When you manually spin the suspect wheel, is it any louder than the wheel on the opposite side? Just keep diagnosing and you'll figure it out. Try testing on straight-ish sections of road. If you hear it more when you're turning, it could be something else. Good luck and let me know how it turns out!
Hello, I have the exact same issue on my 15 civic. Is there a difference in noise level between the replacement OEM bearing and national bearing? Thank you!
I would have normally purchased an OEM bearing (part #: 44300-TR0-951 for 2011-2015 Civic) but, since it failed earlier than I thought it should have, I decided to roll the dice and buy the bearing locally. The bearing I got was National Bearing 510089, which can be picked up at any of the auto parts chain stores.
2005 Honda Civic 1.7L non VTech... my issue is I hear grinding only when I turn left at a speed of 25kmp or faster... I dought that it's a wheel bearing issue, maybe some sort of object making contact with something?
I'm not a pro but it sounds more like the tire might be rubbing against something in the wheel well. That should be easy enough to check, just turn you wheel left as you're parking and then feel all around the tire to see if it's touching anything. I'm not saying it isn't the bearing but, if it was, I would think you'd hear it all the time.
@Mikeattempts thank you so much for responding. Looks like my store has it too. Going to tackle it this weekend that tool is going to make it so much easier
What brand wheel bearing did you use? My honda accord 2010 oem wheel bearing failed at 60k miles ; expensive “national” brand made on usa and still fails early. I bought a skf brand but i notice even famous brands like nsk, skf and timken has wheel bearings made in china now..
I would have normally bought a Honda OEM replacement but, since it failed prematurely, I went with National. When I disassembled the old bearing and cleaned it up, I was really surprised that there were no identifying markings. I assumed it would have had the brand, part number, or "Japan" stamped on it somewhere but it didn't.
@@Mikeattempts then i went and search for big famous brands like skf , nsk and timken but almost all of their product now states made im china. So what should i do? Even if its made in china, would it still be good since those 3 brand are the biggest wheel bearing names out there.
I believe the National brand I purchase at my local auto parts store was also made in China. I don't know if they fail prematurely because the quality control isn't as good or if the steel is inferior.
I think a bearing made in China could be good quality as long as it meets the exact material specifications and tolerances of the OEM part. I'm sure you could find Honda bearings online that are made in Japan.
Hello, within the last year we changed my front wheel bearings on a 2013 Honda Civic. After that several warning lights and several messages on my dash display like: Check brake system, Check ABS, and Check VSA. What could be causing this? A damaged speed sensor?
I'm definitely no pro but I guess it could be a damaged ABS speed sensor. However, did you make sure to put the magnetic side of the bearing toward the inside? That magnetic ring is what the sensor "reads" so, if you install the bearing backwards, it can't get a reading and I assume would trigger warning lights.
Hello Mike. I have Honda Civic 1.8, Model 2006-7 Japan model. I have the same bearing noise and I want to replace the front wheel bearing. I am living in a remote area and I have to order the bearing. I need to know the front wheel bearing number for the said model. Can you help me to find the bearing number please.
I think the front wheel bearing part number for a 2006 Civic would be 31112-5X6-J01 but you should go to www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and enter the VIN number, to be sure.
There are a few things you didnt explain. Why did you put the bearing in the freezer? Secondly, what is the brand of that hub removal tool, and third what in what order you set up the spacer, plate, etc to remove bearing, any measurements you see printed on the tool to choose the right one when doing this job? Also, something was sticking out into the nuckle, was that the speed sensor? This video is missing a lot of things to make removal and installation much easier. I would rather remove knuckle and take it to a shop, have them install bearing, then I will do the rest.
Putting the bearing in the freezer overnight causes it to contract ever so slightly to make installation easier. There's a link to the removal tool in the video description, the brand is EverTough. I showed the order of the spacers I used but I didn't go into detail since this tool can be used on many different makes and models of vehicles. The instructions provide everything you need to know to setup the tool for your vehicle. The ABS speed sensor is what I removed before the hub. Yep, you could take the knuckle to a shop or you could buy a whole new knuckle assembly with a new bearing already installed.
I'm no pro but I'm pretty sure you shouldn't reinstall the hub without replacing the bearing. The reason is that half of the inner race that's still attached to the hub was broken off of the bearing. The bearing has small groove in the center, so it breaks along that groove during removal of the hub.
What size socket do I need for the evertough rental tool? I am in the midst of doing mine and have up to 24 and a 32mm. :/ I have someone that can run to the store for me.. help!
Awesome thank you! Unfortunately the tool is old and the bolt is mushroomed a bit. I moved up to a 1 1/32nd. And a previous rented managed to mangle the main shift threads pretty bad in a few spots
I did apply a thin layer of grease but, since the bearing is a press fit, I think all it did was make me feel good. :) While the bearing is being pressed in, it's such a tight fit that all the grease gets scraped off anyway.
I have heard that when you transport a car on a trailer that you want to pull down on the frame and compress the shocks so the car can’t bounce. You will often see cars with only the tires strapped down and the car bouncing with the shocks. It was explained to me that when a car drives normal that the wheel and wheel bearing are spinning so the bearings aren’t hitting in exactly the same place, like when on a trailer the wheel is stopped, so if the car bounces the bearings are hitting in exactly the same spot far too many times. This may be what happened to your car?
That makes sense and could be what happened since only one spot on the bearing race had damage. It looked like a manufacturing defect to me but I'm no bearing pro. :)
When you're turning the rotor to hear the grinding sound, which gear did you have the transmission in? By the way, thank you so much for this video. Could probably be used for Honda service tech training! Very well executed!
wheel bearings seem like such a simple piece, but horrible to remove. Would a thin layer of anti seize be a good idea or is it best to leave it as a metal on metal compression?
For a smaller bearing, you would only want metal on metal so there's no chance the outside could spin. These bearings are so wide that I think it's probably fine to add grease or anti-seize to assist with installation. I put my new bearing in the freezer overnight and smeared on a thin layer of grease before pressing it in.
I've changed bearings from small ones like the Honda here all the way up to the tapered roller bearings found in the wheel end of class 8 tractors. The bearing cup is meant to be an interference fit. When you press it in, any grease or lubricant you use will be wiped right off as you press. The easiest way to get them on is to freeze the bearing and put the hub in the oven or a hot water bath (using a torch can cause the hub to warp because of uneven heating).
I'm no pro and this was the first time I had replaced a wheel bearing. I think it took me about 4-5 hours, including prep and cleanup, and cost around $60 for the bearing. If you had a mechanic replace the bearing, it would probably cost $300+ but that's just a guess.
Wow. I think my wife’s car has this problem. It sounds like something grinding as she drives. Even when in park. I put the car on blocks and removed the tires, brakes and rotor. I couldn’t spin the right wheel with my hand. Even with the car idling on the blocks, the right wheel would not spin. I could barely move it. It was nearly frozen. I put it all back together because that’s as far as I can go. I gotta try to find an honest mechanic in the area. Would a wheel bearing cause the tire wheel and Axel to freeze up?
If the problem is a front tire and the vehicle is front wheel drive then the tire wouldn't spin when it's in park. It would be best to turn the car off and put it on jack stands. Then, with the car in neutral and the e-brake off, you should be able to spin the wheel. I'm no pro but the only things I could think that would cause a grinding noise would either be the bearing or the brake pads.
@@Mikeattempts sorry. The car was in neutral and the right wheel would not turn. It is front wheel drive. Would not reverse either. I had to use two hands to turn it but it would not turn on its own. When I put in drive, it did not really turn either. Maybe a single turn and then stop and then again a few seconds later. Something is keeping the right wheel from turning. The sound does sound like it’s on the drivers side. Brake pads, calipers and rotors were all changed earlier this year. So you think it’s the wheel bearing? The noise inside the car is very loud and sounds like when a rotor or brakes are grinding metal to metal, but it isn’t that. Here is a video of what it sounds like th-cam.com/video/V8kv8UhCGQ8/w-d-xo.html
@@trusso11783 It could definitely be the bearing. However, from your description, it almost sounds like the caliper isn't retracting when the brake pedal is released. Just because it's a new caliper doesn't mean it can't have a problem. Again, this is just a guess, I'm not a pro. A trustworthy mechanic should be able to quickly diagnose the issue and fix the problem.
@@Mikeattempts Could it be the bearing if the wheel does not have any play when trying to wobble it top to bottom and left to right. I jacked it up and it doesn’t wobble at all. Does that rule out a bearing?
@@trusso11783 Yep, it could still be the bearing with no play, that's exactly how mine was. I had to go by sound alone while spinning and compare it to the other front wheel.
I cleaned and lightly grease the inside of the hub and the outside of the bearing, but it probably doesn't matter much as it will all be scraped off when pressing in the new bearing.
Hub/Bearing Removal/Installation loaner tool:
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-hub-remover-and-installer-kit/ren1/67213
32mm Axle Nut Socket loaner tool:
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/evertough/rental-tools-evertough-axle-nut-socket/ren1/67039
-OR
amzn.to/3dTz01K (affiliate*)
Honda Bearing (44300-TR0-951)
amzn.to/3n8com4 (affiliate*)
-OR
National Bearing (510089, can also be purchase at any local auto parts store)
amzn.to/3HhPKPg (affiliate*)
Breaker Bar:
amzn.to/3yto7gh (affiliate*)
Snap Ring Pliers:
amzn.to/3eHsQ5l (affiliate*)
Impact Wrench:
amzn.to/2xIwjOn (affiliate*)
Angle Grinder:
amzn.to/2UOxd3X (affiliate*)
Rubber Mallet:
amzn.to/2RgjYbt (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
Thanks for the links but there is no way I would attempt this. I can replace brakes and rotors. I never replaced a caliper but maybe could. I would never disconnect the Axel or anything like that. Thanks for the links though.
@@trusso11783 This was my first time doing a repair like this, but I totally understand it's not for everyone. Thanks for watching!
I’ve been trying to remove this piece for a few weeks, no shops near me would even attempts to help me. All I needed was that initial loaner tool. Thank you so much
@@carolnguyen7944 That's great, I'm glad you were able to get it done! :)
What are the numbers of the pieces in the set to assemble to install the wheel hub . Thanks
Thanks for the video! Women can change our bearings correctly thanks to this video. I saved my daughter 500 dollars. I have to say without the loaner tools this could not have been done. Also an impact wrench is a must. Freezing the bearing worked out great too thank you again
That's awesome you saved $500! Yeah, the loaner tools are a life saver. If you had to buy that tool, I think it would have cost around $400. Thanks for the comment!
What is the reasoning for freezing it?
@@samanthacarlough6569 Cold temperature contract and heat expand metal. Freezing the wheel bearing too make the bearing slightly smaller to fit inside of the knuckle much easier.
Heating the knuckle will get you the same result, but why? Put the bearing in the freezer overnight is much easier than use a torch to heat the knuckle, plus every time you use the torch, you might get something/yourself burn...
There is something strangely satisfying about the sped up parts. Thanks for the great video! Very helpful.
Thanks for the great comment, I appreciate it! :)
Great video, just got an ABS fault three days before my caravan holiday. Bearing is throwing out its grease. You made my life a lot easier replacing the bearing. Thank you!
That's fantastic, I'm really glad to hear the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
Took my 13' Civic for an alignment but they couldn't do it because the front driver side bearing was bad. They said it wobbled so it messed with the lasers. They gave me an estimate of about $366 ($120/hr x 2hrs for labor, plus $80 for alignment, plus parts). I always wished I had a garage to work on my car and learn to fix things as I go, now even more so.
Thanks for the info, it's nice to see a price breakdown for having the bearing replaced by a mechanic. There's definitely a feeling satisfaction when you're able to perform a repair like this on your own. It's also a huge confidence builder for tackling the next project. However, it was probably hard to tell from the editing but, it took me a lot longer than 2 hours to do this myself. :) Thanks for the comment!
Same problem on my 2013 Honda Civic. Front driver side bearing went out at 30,000 miles. IIRC, the cost was almost the same.
Hey bro as long as u have a flat surface to jack up car on I think u can do some work
Don't let the alignment shop do the work. They will often make stuff up just to get work.
80 dollars you could buy a new knuckle with bearing ready to go. A noob could install it.
Really good job explaining, you should be a teacher. I recommend you to make more videos so people can learn.
Thanks, I appreciate the comment! So far, I have over 80 videos on fixing stuff. My hope is that they'll be helpful to people tackling similar projects. The thing is, I'm not a pro on any of the topics I cover in my videos, I'm just a regular homeowner. Thanks for watching!
Good video. One point that is important, when reinstalling the axle nut, it must be torqued to the proper torque or you will shorten the life of the new bearing. cannot be to tight or to loose.
I completely agree. While I didn't have a torque wrench at the time, I tightened the axle nut back to the same spot where the edge was pounded into the groove to lock the nut in place. I know it's not an exact foot-pounds measurement, but it should be close to factory. Thanks for the comment!
2019 Honda civic 134 lb-ft
Torque it…don’t guess it.
thank you for that video. Today at September 19 2023 I paid for replacement Bearing and Hub 360$ (4.5hrs labor that what they count) for Honda Civic Coupe 2011 in Mt. Prospect Illinois. Without special tools it will be hard to make.
Cool, thanks for the info!
Can tell the car wasn’t from the rust belt 😂😂 but I love the idea of putting the bearing in the freezer overnight! Definitely saving this one.
Yeah, luckily no salt in our area. :) Thanks for watching!
My buddy froze his bearing and heated the hub up lol. Her it worked
What does freezing the bearing do?
@christophertan4976 wow I did not know that thank you for that
My 2017 needed all four wheel bearings at 100K miles. The front left was so noisy you couldn’t hear yourself think at highway speeds (my daughter had been driving it for the last 10k miles). It creeps up slowly and gets louder and louder so you don’t realize they are gone until they really start to howl. Even my front left wasn’t loose but it was a mess inside like yours. Great video. Helped me to tackle the other three.
Is it just me or did the bearings in older Honda's last much longer? Thanks for the comment, I'm glad the video was helpful!
@@Mikeattempts not sure about the Civics but my old Odyssey went 300K kilometres (186K miles) on the same set. My Mercedes CLS 550 and my Buick Enclave both needed new ones around 280K kilometres. The service shop that I got to do the first one said potholes and speed bumps do them in. My old VW’s all went >> 300K without needing work on the same roads. Cheap Chinese made parts I’m guessing.
@@steveburton8879 Yeah, it seems like they changed bearing suppliers to save a little money. It doesn't seem like it'd be worth the per car savings to tarnish a good name.
@@Mikeattempts My 2013 Honda Civic had the front drivers-side wheel bearing go out within 30,000 miles. (I bought the vehicle new)
@@Bilytkid Dang, I guess I shouldn't be complaining about not even making it to 90k. :)
Thanks for this video. I rented the same puller tool at O'Reilly's. Success following your steps. I have ABS lights on... Will have to tackle that another time.
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful! Did you make sure the magnetic ABS encoder ring on the bearing went towards the inside (7:56)? I'm no pro but that's the only reason I can think of for the ABS light.
Another viewer had the same issue with the ABS light but was sure he had the bearing in the proper direction and found out it was a bad speed sensor.
Were you able to locate the issue with ABS light?
Awesome explanation of the removal and installation, would like to see how you set up the press tool next time, also the method you used to take off the stuck on bearing race was impressive 👍🏽
The tool works with many different types of vehicles and comes with great instructions. I appreciate the comment, thanks for watching!
you have the best quality video on mechanic work on youtube , keep it up !!!!!!! :)
I really appreciate the kind words! Just to be clear though, I'm no pro. I'm just an average guy doing work on my own vehicles. Thanks for the comment!
Fantastic video! Very well done, well narrated, and a great job done.
My tip I can offer is an easy way to determine which bearing is your culprit is while your driving at speed making the noise, sway back and forth left and right in the lane. One way will put the weight onto the bad bearing, not changing the noise or even making it sound worse, while the other way will take the weight off the bad bearing, lessening the noise.
Unless you have 2 bad bearings.....lol. Then it probably sounds like straight up a jet engine at 50+mph 😂
That's a good idea, thanks for the tip!
@@Mikeattempts You're very welcome, a small thank you for making content like this. I'm 15 years in the business but only learned that trick myself 3 years ago from a Senior Mechanic Supervisor.
You did a great job though, seriously. Don't listen to any of the armchair mechanics. You did 100x better on stands in your garage than I see any of them do on a day to day with full tools and equipment at their disposal 😂
@@jayprimo I really appreciate the kind words! I love learning those little tips that make life a lot easier. :)
Good video with detailed instructions. I can explain how that scoring on the inside of the bearing (end of video). That part of the bearing was at the 12-o-clock position. The grease broke down over the year's and couldn't coat all of the ball's in the bearing.
That sounds like a good possibility, I just wonder why it only happened with the driver side bearing?
@@Mikeattemptsyou're not alone. My Acura is due for a new front left hub bearing.
@@danp7463 Let me know how it goes! :)
😮 Thank you, Mike, that was an excellent step-by-step video on how to change your wheelbarrow. It's gonna be a tremendous help to me, and i'm a female, so if a female can do it
I'm sure you'll be able to get it done, let me know how it goes! :)
WOW MAN thx im completly BROKE in mechanic and you learn me so much
I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment!
One of the best video I’ve seen in ages
Thanks, I really appreciate that! :)
Very Informative video .. I like how the camera was set up because it was very visual at the same time it was being explained .. Please Keep up the Good work! Thanks! 👍
I really appreciate the feedback, thanks for taking time to leave a comment! :)
Thank you so much for this video man, i used the same tool as you and even paused to catch ur configuration for a super fast job👍🏽
That's great, I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
That was one of the best do-it-yourself videos I've ever seen, you know the job and no bullshit music. Jolly good show!
Thanks! This was my first wheel bearing replacement so if I can do it, anyone can! :)
My 2012 Civic with 112K miles making a humming noise just like yours. I did a shake down test and both wheels have no play. I spun the tires by hands, and hear no noise. Still don't know which side yet.
Did you check the rear wheels? I went back and forth a bunch of times, spinning the wheels, since the sound wasn't very obvious when doing it by hand. I wanted to be sure I was replacing the correct bearing. :)
@@Mikeattempts I believe the noise comes from front, and it starts above 20MPH. It a loud humming noise and it gets louder as speed increase. I also feel the noise from the passenger floor pan. I may need to wait until it's getting worse for definitive location. By the way, if you don't have a second person to step on the brake pedal, stick a screw driver in the slot of the rotor then you can spin the axle nut.
@@glenglene8473 Sounds like it's probably your front passenger side bearing then but I don't blame you for wanting to wait to be sure. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts I had the passenger bearing replaced yesterday. After cleaning up the bearing, I see it has pitting just like yours. Humming noise is gone.
@@glenglene8473 Thanks for the update! Hmmm... that makes me wonder if Honda changed bearing suppliers or had a bad batch because these bearings don't seem up to Honda standards.
Dude thank you. Great video. I heated the hub and itbwas still scary when the breaker bar popped!
Hahaha, I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
Good video, you and I have the same methodology for working on these Hondas. One thing I did notice though. I had a 91 Honda Civic that had camber adjustment because of the way the arm connected to the shock. I have a 97 Honda Civic that Honda did away with that but instead uses a fork to the lower control arm. On my 21 Pilot there is no camber adjustment either. Interesting that yours does.
Thanks! I didn't notice any alignment issues after replacing the bearing.
Watching all this makes me glad almost my entire fleet is solid axle, both front and back. Bearing work is a simple breeze compared with what you have to go through.
I've never had a wheel bearing go bad on a car, this was my first... maybe it'll be my last. ;)
This is a great video great job. Only advice i can give anyone doing this job is to properly torque your axle nuts. If not torqued to spec your bearing can fail prematurely.
Good point, thanks for watching!
Was told I 100% had to remove the knuckle. Geez can't even trust my so called "friend" that's a mechanic. THANK YOU!
Hahaha, I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
You would remove the entire knuckle if you were using a press he wasn’t wrong there’s multiple ways of doing it
@@ED17Y Correct. Before they invented that bearing removal tool you had to remove the knuckle and put it in 20-50 ton hydraulic press.
One of the best video maker and well explained.thank youuuuu Sir
Thanks for the positive feedback!
Time to give it a shot thank you for the video and the links to the tools
Let me know how it goes!
@9:27 after I remove this race bearing, do I need to install a new one ? Or can I go ahead and install the hub along with the new wheel bearing installed? Thank you for this video btw
The race that you hafta cut off of the shaft is half of the inner race of the old bearing. It's designed to split during removal. The new bearing already has everything you need. So, after cutting off the old race, just press in the new bearing then press in the hub.
@@Mikeattemptsthank you !!
Ur VID is the best. Upload more the VID on Civic 2013.
Thanks! I have some other 2013 Civic videos (MTF change, air filters, wiper blades, etc.) and I plan to do more in the near future (spark plugs, antifreeze, etc.). Thanks for watching!
Watched 5 times now. I think I can do it with conference. Cheers 🍻
This was my first time so if I can do it, you can too! :)
For what is this metal thing at 4:27 on the wishbone (near the ball joint), where it looks like there is a place for a bolt? For what its used? I´m asking cause there are wishbones with and without it.
That's just where the flexible brake line bracket is secured.
So its not necessary to have i guess? You are not talking about the brake line bracket at 4:12 are you? @@Mikeattempts
@@che7973 Are you talking about the threaded hole directly below the rubber axel boot at 4:27? If so, I'm not sure what it's for, nothing was screwed into that hole.
Yes, i mean that hole on the control arm. At 4:31 it´s also in the middle of the picture. I´m guessing what it´s for when apparently it´s not used - can´t find any information about this @@Mikeattempts
@@che7973 Yeah, that threaded hole wasn't used for anything on my 2013 Civic LX.
Great video man. With all the rust up here I might just go with whole hub assembly for $130.
Yeah, that's probably the way to go, I'd imagine rust would make this job a lot more difficult.
@@Mikeattempts that plus nobody loans tools anymore!!
@@666dynomax The chain auto part stores around here still loan tools. I borrowed the one I used to do this job from O'Reilly.
Just did this job on both sides. Worked perfectly.
One problem - It set off the ABS / VSA / Power steering nag warnings. So far every online "fix" has not worked resetting them.
Honda and all their GD fussy kitty sensors.
Did you make sure the magnetic ABS encoder ring on the bearing went towards the inside (7:56)? I'm no pro but that's the only reason I can think of for the ABS light.
Yes I did. Double checked obsessively to make sure they went in the correct way.@@Mikeattempts
@@smelterx That's good, I'm not sure why you'd be getting those warning lights then. Let me know if you figure it out.
Might just need a new abs sensor, that’s what fixed it for me
90 degree snap ring pliers work better for inside snap rings. The straight pliers create a slant that engourages the ring to slide off the tips. With the 90 degree pliers, the tips remain parallel.
I never thought of that, but it makes perfect sense, thanks for the tip!
My 2018 has this exact same hum. It sounds like a revving sound speed dependant
Yep, it could be a wheel bearing. At first I thought it might be the transmission but I still had the hum even when I shifted into neutral.
@@Mikeattempts I thought the same. My LX has a CVT so I threw it into neutral while going down hill.. it was humming faster as I picked up speed. It's so sad because mine has 39000 miles on it and it's doing this.
@@cgmf-d6t Yeah, I was disappointed too, this is not typical for Honda quality. I was a bit concerned when I looked over the old bearing, there were no markings at all. Usually it would say "Japan" or have a part number. Who knows, maybe they changed bearing suppliers and they just aren't made as well.
@@Mikeattempts So odd ! Alot of companies are cheaping out on stuff these days. I had a word with honda and they said that wheel bearings are covered under drive train warranty..but they said if its user damage or wheels put improperly then it won't be covered...lol I know they want to crawl their way out of having to fix something that is clearly a manufacturing defect..a 4 year old car with 40k miles shouldn't have premature bearing failure especially when its completely stock!
Ah, I didn't realize it could possibly be covered under warranty, thanks for the info. Yeah, you shouldn't have any issues with a stock Honda at only 40k miles.
Wow very good very concise and to the point.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
When breaking something loose, keep the breaker bar parallel to the ground, such that you're pushing straight down. Otherwise, you're literally not pushing down "with all your weight."
Thanks for the tip!
You'll also avoid the "impailment of the groin" possibility as well
Correct. Good point. Here’s the formula for figuring he applied force in foot/pounds. Length of bar in feet X cosine of the angle X applied weight will give you the applied force. (If I remember correctly…seems like I do.)
Great video. Thanks for your time and effort.
Thank for the comment!
Okay finished the video , now here I go
Good luck, let me know how it goes!
Good video, might be having same problem with my Honda. Saved video to when I change my oil . Then check it out. 👍
Thanks! If you end up having to change yours too, let me know how it turns out.
My speedometer stop working after I hit a curb so I decided to replace the speed sensor, it worked for maybe 10 minutes then it stopped again. Someone recommended i replace the bearing and it would fix my issue? Any recommendations or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
I'm no pro but, if your bearing sounds good, I don't think you need to replace it. From what I understand, there's an ABS speed sensor at each wheel but I think the sensor that controls the speedometer is attached to the side of the transmission. Again, I'm not a mechanic so I could be wrong. Maybe someone who knows more than me will chime in with a more confident answer. :)
Thank you Sir. I am going to try doing this procedure this weekend. Will post you the updates. Any torque specs?
I think the axle nut is supposed to be 133 ft. lbs. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
Excellent video!!
Thanks!
"removing the old bearing was the hardest part of this job...."
Milwaukee has entered the chat👀😁
Trust me, I was tempted! The tool I borrowed, from my local auto parts store's loaner program, specifically said NOT to use an impact wrench. The tool was around $400 so I didn't want to break it and then end up owning it. :)
@@Mikeattempts I totally understand. They Probably had to replace a few for that reason😄
Thanks for sharing this knowledge it made it easier for me
Does anyone know the torque values ?
Thanks for the comment, I'm glad the video was helpful! I believe the axle nut is supposed to be 133 ft. lbs.
Hello!
At 10:17, I see that you cleaned and greased the axle shaft before putting it back into place. What type of grease did you use?
Thank you for the detailed install, I plan on doing this in the next couple of days myself!
I used Lucas X-TRA but it's currently hard to find because of some additive shortage. You should be able to get Lucas Red-N-Tacky anywhere but really any grease should be fine.
This is a really well done video. Kudos
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
@@Mikeattempts Both my sons have 2013 Civic’s , so I’ll know what to do when their wheel bearing goes.
@@Jimmy-Legs Hopefully their bearings last longer than mine. :)
This was an excellent video. Thank you much.
Happy to hear it, thanks for the comment!
ABS / VSA / Power Steering Warnings Fix - New LT Speed Sensor.
Picked up Blue Driver Scan Tool. Found LT Speed Sensor was throwing a code. Replaced sensor and that fixed the dash lights & nag warning screens.
Awesome! Thanks for letting me know, another viewer commended the same problem so I know this will be helpful to others.
Thanks so much!!! For you tutorial!!
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Do you grease the outside of the bearing and the hub?? Great video
I did use a thin layer of grease on the outside of the bearing and the inside of the hub, but it probably didn't do anything except make me feel better. Since the bearing is an interference fit, all the grease would be wiped completely off of both surfaces by the time the bearing was fully seated.
Awesome video! Thank you very much!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! :)
Will be my first time changing this on my civic! question… so the inner race is apart of the bearing overall? and is there possibly another way that if it were to stick… to get it off without an angle grinder?
This was my first time too! Yep, the inner race is part of the bearing. The inner race is factory scored so it'll break away when removing the hub. If you don't have an angle grinder, you could also use a Dremel cutoff wheel, but it'll take longer. A good quality angle grinder is a great tool to have but if you're trying to keep costs low, you can get one from Harbor Freight for as low as $15.
Never done this before and I am watching this to hopefully learn how to do this on my 2015 Honda Fit someday soon, so correct me if I am wrong: Any reason why you didn't try an impact on the puller tool? It seems like that might have broken the bearing free easier than the breaker bar? Thanks for the video!!
This was my first time too so, if I can do it, so can you! I didn't use an impact on the puller because the instructions specifically said not to. Since it was a loaner tool, I didn't want to break it and then own a broken $400 tool. :)
@@Mikeattempts That makes sense, thank you for the reply!
That general type of hub pullers work much easier with an impact wrench.
The problem is that the instructions for the loaner tool specifically said not to use an impact wrench. I didn't want to risk breaking it and then owning a $400 broken tool. :)
A whole brand new wheel bearing hub assembly for a 2012-2015 Honda Civic costs about $35-$55 each depending on the quality of the part brand. That’s just slightly higher than the bearing by itself that requires a lot more work to replace. For a few bucks more you can replace the whole front wheel bearing hub assembly without all the extra work, or for a little more money you can replace the whole wheel and spindle assembly that again requires much less work than replacing just a single bearing with a bearing press/remover. Checkout this video link to see how much easier it is to just replace the whole bearing hub assembly.
th-cam.com/users/shortsNo1UkqDeyaU?si=iY0yigd_hanwT8Rv
That's true, people have many options for this repair. However, a new genuine Honda front wheel bearing hub assembly is gonna cost more than that. Either way, I think if someone is willing to do this job themselves, cost is probably a factor.
You dont mention how to use the hub bearing tool properly, what adapters to use for this vehicle.
Yeah, I didn't get into specifics because the tool works on multiple different vehicles, depending on which adapters are used. At 6:25, you can see which adapter sleeve (S) and spacer ring (U) I used to pull the bearing. The instructions that come with the tool explain everything well.
@@Mikeattempts
I would just remove the whole nockle and take it to a shop.
@@carlomango407 Sure, that's always an option, whatever works for you.
Just a question, why is it you doesn’t use bearing separator? I would likely need to replace my wheel bearing however i dont have grinder, im wondering if bearing separator will do the job instead of using grinder
I'm no pro but you might be able to use a bearing separator, but I think it would be difficult to get the plates behind the race since it's so tight against the hub. If the bearing separator won't work, you could use a hacksaw to cut the race, or you could pick up a cheap angle grinder at Harbor Fright for $15.
Great video! Might be going through something similar but still diagnosing. Did yours get louder at certain speeds then quiet down then get loud again? I.e. 25 loud 35 quiet 45 loud again?
Thanks! Mine seemed to get louder as the speed increased. I don't have enough experience to tell you that a bearing could fail in a way that would smooth out at certain speeds. When you manually spin the suspect wheel, is it any louder than the wheel on the opposite side? Just keep diagnosing and you'll figure it out. Try testing on straight-ish sections of road. If you hear it more when you're turning, it could be something else. Good luck and let me know how it turns out!
Excellent video
Thanks!
Great job man.
Thanks!
Awesome video! That part you cut off of the hub, will it come installed the new bearing or do i order it separately? Thank you!
Yep, that part I cut off was actually 1/2 of the inner race of the bearing so you won't need to order anything else.
@@Mikeattempts on great, thank you very much!!!
@@John-2fnf No problem, let e know if you have any other questions.
Is this process the same for 10th gen civics?
If it's not exactly the same, it should be very close.
Great video! Did you grease the outside of the race before pressing in the bearing?
Yep, I froze the bearing and then greased it before pressing it in. Thanks for watching!
Isn't it easier to replace the whole assembly rather then press in a new bearing?
Yeah, that would definitely be easier, but it would also cost a lot more. I'm not sure how much more though.
Hello, I have the exact same issue on my 15 civic. Is there a difference in noise level between the replacement OEM bearing and national bearing? Thank you!
Nope, I don't notice a sound difference between the new bearing and the remaining originals.
Really good job....can you link where you got the original bearings from?
I would have normally purchased an OEM bearing (part #: 44300-TR0-951 for 2011-2015 Civic) but, since it failed earlier than I thought it should have, I decided to roll the dice and buy the bearing locally. The bearing I got was National Bearing 510089, which can be picked up at any of the auto parts chain stores.
2005 Honda Civic 1.7L non VTech... my issue is I hear grinding only when I turn left at a speed of 25kmp or faster... I dought that it's a wheel bearing issue, maybe some sort of object making contact with something?
I'm not a pro but it sounds more like the tire might be rubbing against something in the wheel well. That should be easy enough to check, just turn you wheel left as you're parking and then feel all around the tire to see if it's touching anything. I'm not saying it isn't the bearing but, if it was, I would think you'd hear it all the time.
@@Mikeattempts thanks for the advise Mike, I'll take a peak at it soon
Hi
What kind of air impact wrench have you in this video?
Looks very powerfull
There are links in the video description to most of the stuff I used in the video. My impact wrench is an IR 2130: amzn.to/2xIwjOn
Thank you for this! 🙏🏽
Thank you for watching! :)
nicely done ! thanks !!
Thanks for watching!
Would it be ok to replace the entire hub if we don't have access to that specialty tool?
Sure, you could replace the whole assembly and while it would cost more, it would be a lot less labor.
Hi Pal
Why did you put the bearing in the freezer for overnight?
Its helps to put back in easily?
Yep, putting the bearing in the freezer causes the steel to contract ever so slightly to make installation easier.
@@Mikeattempts cheers
Great job. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great video! What size socket did you use on the breaker bar ?
That was a 32mm socket. I didn't have that size and was able to borrow it along with the other tool from my local auto parts store.
@Mikeattempts thank you so much for responding. Looks like my store has it too. Going to tackle it this weekend that tool is going to make it so much easier
What brand wheel bearing did you use? My honda accord 2010 oem wheel bearing failed at 60k miles ; expensive “national” brand made on usa and still fails early. I bought a skf brand but i notice even famous brands like nsk, skf and timken has wheel bearings made in china now..
I would have normally bought a Honda OEM replacement but, since it failed prematurely, I went with National. When I disassembled the old bearing and cleaned it up, I was really surprised that there were no identifying markings. I assumed it would have had the brand, part number, or "Japan" stamped on it somewhere but it didn't.
@@Mikeattempts mines was honda oem wheel bearing. The brand is “national” made im usa but failed early at 60k miles. Why??
@@Mikeattempts then i went and search for big famous brands like skf , nsk and timken but almost all of their product now states made im china. So what should i do? Even if its made in china, would it still be good since those 3 brand are the biggest wheel bearing names out there.
I believe the National brand I purchase at my local auto parts store was also made in China. I don't know if they fail prematurely because the quality control isn't as good or if the steel is inferior.
I think a bearing made in China could be good quality as long as it meets the exact material specifications and tolerances of the OEM part. I'm sure you could find Honda bearings online that are made in Japan.
Hello, within the last year we changed my front wheel bearings on a 2013 Honda Civic. After that several warning lights and several messages on my dash display like: Check brake system, Check ABS, and Check VSA. What could be causing this? A damaged speed sensor?
I'm definitely no pro but I guess it could be a damaged ABS speed sensor. However, did you make sure to put the magnetic side of the bearing toward the inside? That magnetic ring is what the sensor "reads" so, if you install the bearing backwards, it can't get a reading and I assume would trigger warning lights.
Yes we were aware of which side to put in first so we could double check that. I’m pretty sure it might be the sensor.
@@mdiecm Ok, I'm curious now so if you figure it out, let me know. :)
Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Hello Mike. I have Honda Civic 1.8, Model 2006-7 Japan model. I have the same bearing noise and I want to replace the front wheel bearing. I am living in a remote area and I have to order the bearing. I need to know the front wheel bearing number for the said model. Can you help me to find the bearing number please.
I think the front wheel bearing part number for a 2006 Civic would be 31112-5X6-J01 but you should go to www.hondaautomotiveparts.com and enter the VIN number, to be sure.
There are a few things you didnt explain. Why did you put the bearing in the freezer? Secondly, what is the brand of that hub removal tool, and third what in what order you set up the spacer, plate, etc to remove bearing, any measurements you see printed on the tool to choose the right one when doing this job? Also, something was sticking out into the nuckle, was that the speed sensor? This video is missing a lot of things to make removal and installation much easier. I would rather remove knuckle and take it to a shop, have them install bearing, then I will do the rest.
Putting the bearing in the freezer overnight causes it to contract ever so slightly to make installation easier. There's a link to the removal tool in the video description, the brand is EverTough. I showed the order of the spacers I used but I didn't go into detail since this tool can be used on many different makes and models of vehicles. The instructions provide everything you need to know to setup the tool for your vehicle. The ABS speed sensor is what I removed before the hub. Yep, you could take the knuckle to a shop or you could buy a whole new knuckle assembly with a new bearing already installed.
Have you replaced any suspension parts?
Nope, besides regular maintenance, this single bearing has been the only thing that I've replaced.
Can the wheel hub with the half of the race bearing be reinstalled if the wheel bearing is still good? I removed the hub to install longer wheel studs
I'm no pro but I'm pretty sure you shouldn't reinstall the hub without replacing the bearing. The reason is that half of the inner race that's still attached to the hub was broken off of the bearing. The bearing has small groove in the center, so it breaks along that groove during removal of the hub.
What size socket do I need for the evertough rental tool? I am in the midst of doing mine and have up to 24 and a 32mm. :/ I have someone that can run to the store for me.. help!
The front hex takes a 15/16" socket. I held the rear with an adjustable wrench but that one is 1-1/16".
Awesome thank you! Unfortunately the tool is old and the bolt is mushroomed a bit. I moved up to a 1 1/32nd. And a previous rented managed to mangle the main shift threads pretty bad in a few spots
@@CN-zi7cr Yep, unfortunately some people aren't very careful with rentals. Let me know how it turns out!
May I ask if you put any grease when you install the wheel bearing?
I did apply a thin layer of grease but, since the bearing is a press fit, I think all it did was make me feel good. :) While the bearing is being pressed in, it's such a tight fit that all the grease gets scraped off anyway.
Have you ever had a stubborn axle that refused to go back into the hub? That is what i just ended up dealing with
This was my first time doing a repair like this, so I don't have much experience. :) What was preventing your axle from going in?
@Mike attempts not to sure. Eventually I got angry and took a hammer to the hub and it slowly slid back in as I hit the hub.
@@brianmolina5110 Maybe the splines weren't lined up just right. Either way, nothing a hammer won't fix! ;)
It fell like I’m about to slide when I press breaks is that the wheel bearing
I'm not sure, I'm not a mechanic, but that doesn't really sound like a bearing issue.
Really appreciate this vidio!
I really appreciate you watching! :)
if the humming comes and goes rapidly could this still be the wheel bearing? it's not a constant humming noise
also, the noise is strongest around 50 mph
I'm no pro so I'm not sure. Does it come and go faster or slower based on speed? If so then it could still be a wheel bearing.
@@Mikeattempts no, it just gets louder
Taking it to get a wheel alignment tomorrow, hopefully this makes it better
@@h.e6604 Yeah, that could very well be the issue.
I have heard that when you transport a car on a trailer that you want to pull down on the frame and compress the shocks so the car can’t bounce. You will often see cars with only the tires strapped down and the car bouncing with the shocks. It was explained to me that when a car drives normal that the wheel and wheel bearing are spinning so the bearings aren’t hitting in exactly the same place, like when on a trailer the wheel is stopped, so if the car bounces the bearings are hitting in exactly the same spot far too many times. This may be what happened to your car?
That makes sense and could be what happened since only one spot on the bearing race had damage. It looked like a manufacturing defect to me but I'm no bearing pro. :)
When you're turning the rotor to hear the grinding sound, which gear did you have the transmission in?
By the way, thank you so much for this video. Could probably be used for Honda service tech training! Very well executed!
I was in neutral when spinning the rotor. Thanks for the positive feedback, I really appreciate it!
wheel bearings seem like such a simple piece, but horrible to remove. Would a thin layer of anti seize be a good idea or is it best to leave it as a metal on metal compression?
For a smaller bearing, you would only want metal on metal so there's no chance the outside could spin. These bearings are so wide that I think it's probably fine to add grease or anti-seize to assist with installation. I put my new bearing in the freezer overnight and smeared on a thin layer of grease before pressing it in.
I've changed bearings from small ones like the Honda here all the way up to the tapered roller bearings found in the wheel end of class 8 tractors. The bearing cup is meant to be an interference fit. When you press it in, any grease or lubricant you use will be wiped right off as you press. The easiest way to get them on is to freeze the bearing and put the hub in the oven or a hot water bath (using a torch can cause the hub to warp because of uneven heating).
did u remove speed sensor on the back and what kinda cupling did you use.
I removed the ABS Speed Sensor at 3:24, it's just held in place with one bolt.
Good job thank you
Thank you for watching!
How much time to fix it and how much we have to pay
I'm no pro and this was the first time I had replaced a wheel bearing. I think it took me about 4-5 hours, including prep and cleanup, and cost around $60 for the bearing. If you had a mechanic replace the bearing, it would probably cost $300+ but that's just a guess.
Wow. I think my wife’s car has this problem. It sounds like something grinding as she drives. Even when in park. I put the car on blocks and removed the tires, brakes and rotor. I couldn’t spin the right wheel with my hand. Even with the car idling on the blocks, the right wheel would not spin. I could barely move it. It was nearly frozen. I put it all back together because that’s as far as I can go. I gotta try to find an honest mechanic in the area. Would a wheel bearing cause the tire wheel and Axel to freeze up?
If the problem is a front tire and the vehicle is front wheel drive then the tire wouldn't spin when it's in park. It would be best to turn the car off and put it on jack stands. Then, with the car in neutral and the e-brake off, you should be able to spin the wheel. I'm no pro but the only things I could think that would cause a grinding noise would either be the bearing or the brake pads.
@@Mikeattempts sorry. The car was in neutral and the right wheel would not turn. It is front wheel drive. Would not reverse either. I had to use two hands to turn it but it would not turn on its own. When I put in drive, it did not really turn either. Maybe a single turn and then stop and then again a few seconds later. Something is keeping the right wheel from turning. The sound does sound like it’s on the drivers side. Brake pads, calipers and rotors were all changed earlier this year. So you think it’s the wheel bearing? The noise inside the car is very loud and sounds like when a rotor or brakes are grinding metal to metal, but it isn’t that. Here is a video of what it sounds like
th-cam.com/video/V8kv8UhCGQ8/w-d-xo.html
@@trusso11783 It could definitely be the bearing. However, from your description, it almost sounds like the caliper isn't retracting when the brake pedal is released. Just because it's a new caliper doesn't mean it can't have a problem. Again, this is just a guess, I'm not a pro. A trustworthy mechanic should be able to quickly diagnose the issue and fix the problem.
@@Mikeattempts Could it be the bearing if the wheel does not have any play when trying to wobble it top to bottom and left to right. I jacked it up and it doesn’t wobble at all. Does that rule out a bearing?
@@trusso11783 Yep, it could still be the bearing with no play, that's exactly how mine was. I had to go by sound alone while spinning and compare it to the other front wheel.
Very helpful
Thanks for watching!
Did you grease the hub before pushing it into the bearing or no
I cleaned and lightly grease the inside of the hub and the outside of the bearing, but it probably doesn't matter much as it will all be scraped off when pressing in the new bearing.
I have a question did your car use to vibrate at certain speeds?
I didn't feel a vibration but, if your bearing was bad enough, you might be able to feel it.