This is very informative video. I wish there was video's like this one around when i first started messing around with 2 part epoxies. I relied on books, shep paine, stephen zologar (i apologize for the spelling im sure i misspelled steve's last name). Im no sculptutor either but i some how find a way. I use the expensive stuff like green stuff when working aound flesh, for things like sandbags, traps, etc., i buy 2 part expoy from the DIY store stores. Look in the plumbing section it is way more cheaper about twice or three times the material for almost half the price. Besides the metal shaping tools that Tim used, i also use silcone brushes in variouse sizes and shapes, bought a little brush kit if 6 silcone brushes on line. They work great for smothing and shaping. Great video, great How to Tim.
I use it on carbody kits. And it is realy good stuff.Another advantage is that it don,t schrink.There are putty,s out-there that has te tendency to schrink. For example on the prsche 911 GT3 there is a seemline/gap between the motorcover and the spoiler. On the original it is seemlees. With this putty it ended up nicer rather than filling it up with sprue-goo or CA-glue. Good revieuw of a good product and may you all has a nice weekend
I have used Brownell's Accraglass epoxy as a filler. The gel type works well for filling gaps. It is also a 1to1 mixture. I used it to fill gaps on an AMT '36 coupe/ roadster kit, to fill the gaps between the body and top. And the rumble seat gap. And to contor around the custom licence plate piece. Once thoroughly mixed, per instructions, it give a 20 minute working time before it kicks it, and starts to harden. That is noticeable as the epoxy starts to warm up. It gets uncomfortably warm as it sets, but Not warm enough to warp the plastic. Blending and shaping can be done with a moist fingertip. Let it set for 24 hours, to be sure it's fully set,and hardened. It will file, and sand wonderfully well. It is actually stronger than the plastic it's bonded to. It takes enamel paints well. Test it on a piece of scrap plastic with laquors first however, to check on comparability. It can be blended with artist acrylic paints to make just about any color you'd like. One ounce jars of each of the two parts means that it will make plenty of filler. I use kitchen measuring spoons to portion the amounts I want to use for each application. Thoroughly clean the spoon of choice between. The parts of the epoxy. That should be obvious why to be sure you don't contaminate the component parts. This stuff IS fairly expensive per box.
Green stuff has been around a lot longer then Greenstuff World. Hand lotion works great for keeping it from sticking to your tools, and if you want to roll it real thin to make things like tarps or cloth using baby powder on your work surface and rolling tool works really well. It also has flex to it when dried if you need it stiffer you can also mix it in equal parts with miliput and you get the best of both putties in one
That's a good question. After I saw your comment, I remembered that I had some Green Stuff in a resealable plastic bag in my workshop that dated back to about 2008, when I was really big into tabletop wargames. I took it out today, cut off equal parts yellow and green and mixed. Once it warmed to my hands, it got sticky and I just used it in a story that I'm working on for the magazine, so, in this case, 15 years. Do I recommend sitting on a stash of Green Stuff for 15 years before using it? No. Is this a scientific experiment? Nope. But I wanted to report back what I've experienced. Thanks for watching, subscribing, and leaving a comment! -TK
This is very informative video. I wish there was video's like this one around when i first started messing around with 2 part epoxies. I relied on books, shep paine, stephen zologar (i apologize for the spelling im sure i misspelled steve's last name). Im no sculptutor either but i some how find a way. I use the expensive stuff like green stuff when working aound flesh, for things like sandbags, traps, etc., i buy 2 part expoy from the DIY store stores. Look in the plumbing section it is way more cheaper about twice or three times the material for almost half the price. Besides the metal shaping tools that Tim used, i also use silcone brushes in variouse sizes and shapes, bought a little brush kit if 6 silcone brushes on line. They work great for smothing and shaping.
Great video, great How to Tim.
I use it on carbody kits. And it is realy good stuff.Another advantage is that it don,t schrink.There are putty,s out-there that has te tendency to schrink. For example on the prsche 911 GT3 there is a seemline/gap between the motorcover and the spoiler. On the original it is seemlees. With this putty it ended up nicer rather than filling it up with sprue-goo or CA-glue. Good revieuw of a good product and may you all has a nice weekend
I have used Brownell's Accraglass epoxy as a filler. The gel type works well for filling gaps. It is also a 1to1 mixture. I used it to fill gaps on an AMT '36 coupe/ roadster kit, to fill the gaps between the body and top. And the rumble seat gap. And to contor around the custom licence plate piece. Once thoroughly mixed, per instructions, it give a 20 minute working time before it kicks it, and starts to harden. That is noticeable as the epoxy starts to warm up. It gets uncomfortably warm as it sets, but Not warm enough to warp the plastic. Blending and shaping can be done with a moist fingertip. Let it set for 24 hours, to be sure it's fully set,and hardened. It will file, and sand wonderfully well. It is actually stronger than the plastic it's bonded to. It takes enamel paints well. Test it on a piece of scrap plastic with laquors first however, to check on comparability. It can be blended with artist acrylic paints to make just about any color you'd like. One ounce jars of each of the two parts means that it will make plenty of filler. I use kitchen measuring spoons to portion the amounts I want to use for each application. Thoroughly clean the spoon of choice between. The parts of the epoxy. That should be obvious why to be sure you don't contaminate the component parts. This stuff IS fairly expensive per box.
Cool as always.
Great tutorial Tim!
Up the Irons!
Thanks, Gordon! Maiden rulz! -TK
Green stuff has been around a lot longer then Greenstuff World. Hand lotion works great for keeping it from sticking to your tools, and if you want to roll it real thin to make things like tarps or cloth using baby powder on your work surface and rolling tool works really well. It also has flex to it when dried if you need it stiffer you can also mix it in equal parts with miliput and you get the best of both putties in one
Thanks for sharing, Chris!
How does the Soylent Green factory deal with workplace misconduct?
Human Resources.
What's the shelf life?
That's a good question. After I saw your comment, I remembered that I had some Green Stuff in a resealable plastic bag in my workshop that dated back to about 2008, when I was really big into tabletop wargames. I took it out today, cut off equal parts yellow and green and mixed. Once it warmed to my hands, it got sticky and I just used it in a story that I'm working on for the magazine, so, in this case, 15 years. Do I recommend sitting on a stash of Green Stuff for 15 years before using it? No. Is this a scientific experiment? Nope. But I wanted to report back what I've experienced. Thanks for watching, subscribing, and leaving a comment! -TK
1:20 looks just like 🇺🇦
And it comes in the Ukrainian
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