Thank you for a comprehensive explanation on glues, I am about to begin car modelling as a retiree and I have aparticular model I want to work up to , you have saved me heaps of grief by showing what glues do what 😊👍
Great summary 👍🏻. I’ve now spent more time than I should looking for a clear but very strong adhesive for clear plastic parts. Going to try the 2 part epoxy….
True story. I bought a small plastic bottle of Gorilla instant glue and used 0 times because it had set in the bottle. Wasn't cheap either. And the shop didn't refund my money. . I've also used paint thinners, applied with a fine paint brush, to glue clear plastic components such as windows. Worked a treat.
Thanks for watching! We are trying to make sure we are as helpful as we can be for everyone. We're definitely not perfect and have more we can do, but we're trying.
Great tips, thank you. Tip on the gloves: Before mixing, put 2x layers of gloves. If the first glove is contaminated, remove it, and you already have another on your hand to keep going and don't have to deal with sweaty hands and more working time with the epoxy.
Excellent video! It should also be noted that you can develop an epoxy allergy if exposed to it too much, so the gloves aren't just a convenience/cleanliness thing. They are an absolute must.
Excellent video. You gave a clear overview what glues nowadays can be used and best of all you also showed how to apply the glue to the parts in question. I bought your book 'Essential Skills for Scale Modelers' a few weeks ago and I did miss a section about glues. Glad this video is around and it can be considered as a supplement to the book.
Be careful when using vinyl-faced clamps on a painted surface; I wasn't. I used an alligator clamp, or clip if you prefer, which had the jaws covered with a protective vinyl coating. One side of the jaws was in contact with a painted surface. After an hour or so, I removed the alligator and found the vinyl had reacted with the solvent in the paint, leaving an ugly, eroded area of paint. I knew vinyl could react with solvents used in paints, but had to re-learn this property of most vinyls at the cost of a fixable, but still ruined, area of paint. Thanks for posting this very helpful video, Aaron! Best of health to you from the hills of Virginia! Cork
Excellent video, as for glues, I previously used Revell and Humbrol tubes, but now I am very satisfied with the Tamiya liquid glue. For some complicated pieces I prefer to use Super Glue.
thank you so much!! I will start using epoxy for bonding brass photo etch to plastic. I've always had weak bonds using plastic cement CA glue. I'm excited to try it out
close it after every use , but it will get dried in inevitably. one trick i use is lighter. just hold the metal tube above (not inside! it will bend) the flame for a few seconds and spill the dried out glue out until you see clear , in bottle stored glue coming out and then you can work again with it.
I even see 'pro youtube' builders using Tamiya extra thin, on kits with a lot of gaps, where it's not usefull due to it should only be used as a capilar glue = tight joints. I use Extra thin too, but also a normal Tamiya cement where the joints is more... questionable. A true modeller has more than one bottle of glue. Know your enmy, use the right tool. Great video.
The short answer is you don't. Paint typically interferes with plastic cement and superglue. Better to scrape the areas you're going to glue clean of paint with a sharp knife and then apply the glue. Thanks for watching!
I always use super glue for almost every part of my modeling, over the years, I managed to work around its disadvantages, and even sometimes make it work on my favor... plus, the quick drying time helps in locking in symmetric alignments after gluing... also, it makes for a quick gap filler on some spots... and if ever I screw up something, it’s easier to pop out or cut off with a no.11 blade... I initially tried to use tube glue and plastic cement, but I don’t like the slow drying time and I find using a lot of clamps very annoying, plus the fact that it actually melts the plastic is something that scares the bejessus out of me... the only other glue I use is white glue or clear parts cement for the windows and canopies...
@@katzsteel - I use a super glue brand called “Mighty Bond”, which is produced by a local industrial chemicals company here in our place (Pioneer Adhesives Inc.)… its consistency and properties is similar to Loctite’s super glue, but over the years, they improved the formula in such a way that much of the fogging has been eliminated (provided that the fumes are ventilated while the glue sets), resulting in a much cleaner bond… and for clear parts coated with Future (or Pledge Multisurface finish, or whatever its called nowadays), it doesn’t fog anymore… also, the company now sells various formulations of their super glue brand that has certain useful properties, for example, they have a formula that has enhanced dissimilar material bonding qualities, and a slow setting one that is very useful for major parts alignment, but when it cures, it’s tougher than the ordinary variety of the glue, which is perfect for major structural assemblies requiring alignment adjustments… I never got to try other super glue brands like Gorilla, etc., but after hearing the horror stories of some of our modeler folks with those, I can understand why a lot of our fellows don’t recommend using super glue for modeling, and I for one, don’t think I’ll ever will use those…
@@hanschristianben505 Thanks for the info! I just watched a vid that tested many different super glues bonding plastic. Loctite came out on top and wasn’t even close. I don’t think I’ve seen Mighty Bond in my area unfortunately.
My first experience of using modeling glue was put a huge amount on the fuselage parts thinking it will be a strong join... only to watch both parts slowly melt into styrene lumps 😐
I have an acrimonious relationship(!) with CA! It will cease working when you need it to, no matter how many times I try and is as useful as trying to glue with water…. Using accelerator is messy and flows to areas it isn’t needed. Sometimes I need just a second or two to place an item with CA and an accelerator affixes too fast! I frequently replace my CA bottle in case the reason for its failure is that it’s old. I really wish some manufacture would come up with a newer version of CA that would be more reliable.
not sure about tamiya (waiting for my bottle to come in the mail) but i bought a bottle of testors plastic cement from a craft store and i never even smelled it.
I will sometimes temporarily glue parts that need a base coat of paint with white glue, so that they can be disassembled for detail painting afterwards. This way, enamel or acrylic paints don’t interfere with the final bond.
I just found this video while looking for a solution to glue a suspension link of a 1/24 Formula One IXO model. Basically it broke under tension with a part remaining attached to the wheel and the other to the car body (not a good build and clearly low-quality plastics). The suspension link is made of black plastic which I don't think was painted but I don't want to use super glue anyway because it will whiten it. So my doubt is, should I go for Tamiya Extra Thin Cement or for Micro Kyrstal Klear? Thank you in advance!
It's hard to diagnose without being able to see the car, but if it broke under tensions, then Micro Krystal Klear is not going to work for you. Under the best circumstances, you'd remove the part halves from the model, repair it, paint it if needed, and then reattach. Pinning the halves and then supergluing is probably going to give you the best bet if you can't remove and replace (either with a similar part from another kit or by making one). You'll probably have to repaint the part to hide the repair no mater the direction you take.
You're welcome. Make sure to use an old brush because the glue will dry the bristles. When you're finished using the liquid cement, just set the brush aside and the solvent will evaporate. Most liquid cements come with a fine brush already attached to the cap.
We're not sure if you mean if Tamiya thin cement is a better option for resin or if there is a better option than Tamiya thin cement in general. We'll try to answer both: Tamiya thin cement won't work on resin. Your two best options, depending on the size of the resin parts you're gluing together are either superglue or two-part epoxy (and with either you still may need to pin the joins). As for liquid cements, there are many, some more aggressive than others. Usually it comes down to personal tastes. Tamiya thin cement works well overall, but you may prefer Mr. Cement or Mr. Cement Deluxe. For really aggressive bonds or plastic that seems resistant to other thing cements, we'll turn to Plastruct or a more substantial gel cement from a tube like Testors or ZAP. But remember, those types of glues can be very aggressive, so don't apply them directly from the tube; squeeze out a bit on a piece of paper or other disposable palette and then apply with a wooden toothpick. It takes time for those glues to do the job, so clamp and then set aside overnight. Hope this helps!
I let the thin set glue wick into the joints. The glue stains the seams, but they disappear when I paint the model. Recently, I used some MRP lacquer based paint and the glue seams are visible. Is this because its lacquer based, or do some paints let the glue joints show through?...thanks-
Hi Shawn: If you're gluing multiple medias, superglue is probably your best bet, with 5-minute epoxy for those joins you really don't want going anywhere. When using superglue, make sure you have accelerator on hand to help it cure faster.
Regards to Epoxy glues, one of the side effects is usually that it generates heat as it's drying, this is because of the chemical reaction between the parts after mixing. Is this still a factor, and if used on large parts for example, can it effect the plastic due to the heat?
Great point! Epoxy does have a slight exothermic reaction. Typically, it's not enough to warp plastic or vinyl. But as Aaron did in this video, we usually use epoxy when attaching parts of different media where plastic cement will not work or when we really need to be sure a part is not going to come off and plastic cement or super glue may not be strong enough.
The only glue I've ever used is testors tube glue since the early 80's and still use it. Ive only built cars and learned how to work around the glue being stringy at times it making a mess, but I can't really speak on using it for airplanes or other models
Is it ok to use liquid super glue on the whole model, if the plastic cement is not available ? Because i don’t have plastic cement available in my country .
A question please. On the Tamiya thin glue I'm down to a quarter left in the bottle and the brush doesn't reach the glue in the bottle anymore. Am I the only one that encountered this problem & what do others do ?
The brush in the cap extends further out. Just gently pull on the stem to have it extend further from the cap to reach the glue in the bottom of the bottle.
We all have glue bombs in hour past, right? A lot of times it's a matter of experience. We hope new modelers (and maybe some experienced ones, too) will see this video and it will help them improve. Thanks for watching!
…”if you need more strength with epoxy, let it dry longer”… Wrong on two counts. 1) Epoxy does not ‘dry’… it chemically sets, or ‘cures’ 2) Epoxy is sold by “work time” or “open-pot time” or “cure time”. For example “5-minute’ or ‘30-minute’ epoxy. This is determined by the chemical composition of the particular epoxy, and you cannot ‘let it set/dry/cure longer’. Further, the longer the cure-time, the higher the strength. TBH, the requirements of the models we build are more than adequately met with even 5-minute epoxy.. Unless you are building a 1/1 replica of the Enterprise ‘Galileo’ shuttle, 5-min is strong enough… The plastic will fail long before the epoxy.
Many commercial fishing vessels (and others) add CA glue to their first aid kits, a quick repair to seal edges of cuts together. I was told in ER outpatient surgery that I could start peeling off the seal ("CA glue?" I asked the nurse. She smiled.) over the external stitches after two weeks as it would start flaking. 🙂
Couldn't disagree more! Contacta is a great glue. Should the metal applicator get occluded, you can heat the tip of it with lighter and it will cook off the glue.
Thank you for a comprehensive explanation on glues, I am about to begin car modelling as a retiree and I have aparticular model I want to work up to , you have saved me heaps of grief by showing what glues do what 😊👍
You're welcome! Glad it was useful.
Wow, you have steady hands, I could never do this extremely delicate work. Great video , thanks. 🇨🇦
Excellent teaching !!!!!!!!!! Can I ask the best glue to fixing resin please .
Depending on what you need to do with the resin, you can use superglue or, for more strength, two-part epoxy.
Great summary 👍🏻. I’ve now spent more time than I should looking for a clear but very strong adhesive for clear plastic parts. Going to try the 2 part epoxy….
True story.
I bought a small plastic bottle of Gorilla instant glue and used 0 times because it had set in the bottle.
Wasn't cheap either.
And the shop didn't refund my money.
.
I've also used paint thinners, applied with a fine paint brush, to glue clear plastic components such as windows.
Worked a treat.
Ty. U r the 1st that introduced timestamps on your video making it more accessible for neurodivergent people
Thanks for watching! We are trying to make sure we are as helpful as we can be for everyone. We're definitely not perfect and have more we can do, but we're trying.
Thank you for the tutorial! You answered many of my questions! 🙂
Great tips, thank you. Tip on the gloves: Before mixing, put 2x layers of gloves. If the first glove is contaminated, remove it, and you already have another on your hand to keep going and don't have to deal with sweaty hands and more working time with the epoxy.
nice work thanks for giving info in print I learned more than just music videos teach
thank you for demonstrating the clear parts cement this will be a huge help
Thanks for showing the different types of glue.
That last 4 minutes is probably the best music I’ve ever heard.
I also put weak tape on glass while handling and I get nice shiny glass
Nice tutorial. Videos like this one are extremely helpful; especially, for beginning modelers. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video! It should also be noted that you can develop an epoxy allergy if exposed to it too much, so the gloves aren't just a convenience/cleanliness thing. They are an absolute must.
Great point! And thanks for watching.
Thank you FSM, that was a very clear & informative video. Many thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Tamiya thin cement is actually cellulose thinner aka...Lacquer thinner here in the states.
Excellent video. You gave a clear overview what glues nowadays can be used and best of all you also showed how to apply the glue to the parts in question. I bought your book 'Essential Skills for Scale Modelers' a few weeks ago and I did miss a section about glues. Glad this video is around and it can be considered as a supplement to the book.
We're glad you find this video (and the book) helpful!
Be careful when using vinyl-faced clamps on a painted surface; I wasn't. I used an alligator clamp, or clip if you prefer, which had the jaws covered with a protective vinyl coating. One side of the jaws was in contact with a painted surface. After an hour or so, I removed the alligator and found the vinyl had reacted with the solvent in the paint, leaving an ugly, eroded area of paint. I knew vinyl could react with solvents used in paints, but had to re-learn this property of most vinyls at the cost of a fixable, but still ruined, area of paint. Thanks for posting this very helpful video, Aaron! Best of health to you from the hills of Virginia! Cork
Thanks for sharing, glad you found this video helpful!
Excellent video, as for glues, I previously used Revell and Humbrol tubes, but now I am very satisfied with the Tamiya liquid glue. For some complicated pieces I prefer to use Super Glue.
Thanks for watching!
Building models, the best hobby in the world 😎
Both plastics and balsas
Type Guillows 😁
We love building models! Thanks for watching!
thank you so much!! I will start using epoxy for bonding brass photo etch to plastic. I've always had weak bonds using plastic cement CA glue. I'm excited to try it out
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video and presentation
Glad you enjoyed it
6:25 how do i protect this type of glue from getting dried or stuck in that thin tube
close it after every use , but it will get dried in inevitably. one trick i use is lighter. just hold the metal tube above (not inside! it will bend) the flame for a few seconds and spill the dried out glue out until you see clear , in bottle stored glue coming out and then you can work again with it.
@@winterhear thats actually smart thank you
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Well worth watching
Thanks, William!
I even see 'pro youtube' builders using Tamiya extra thin, on kits with a lot of gaps, where it's not usefull due to it should only be used as a capilar glue = tight joints.
I use Extra thin too, but also a normal Tamiya cement where the joints is more... questionable.
A true modeller has more than one bottle of glue.
Know your enmy, use the right tool.
Great video.
I always wondered, how do you glue painted parts together? I had to paint some parts separately before glue, but that usually messes up the paint
The short answer is you don't. Paint typically interferes with plastic cement and superglue. Better to scrape the areas you're going to glue clean of paint with a sharp knife and then apply the glue. Thanks for watching!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine I didn't know that, thanks for the advice I was really struggling with that.
Great video btw!
It's Testors orange tube for my older, simpler kits. I'm full immersion in the style of my long ago days.
Stick with it.
I always use super glue for almost every part of my modeling, over the years, I managed to work around its disadvantages, and even sometimes make it work on my favor... plus, the quick drying time helps in locking in symmetric alignments after gluing... also, it makes for a quick gap filler on some spots... and if ever I screw up something, it’s easier to pop out or cut off with a no.11 blade...
I initially tried to use tube glue and plastic cement, but I don’t like the slow drying time and I find using a lot of clamps very annoying, plus the fact that it actually melts the plastic is something that scares the bejessus out of me...
the only other glue I use is white glue or clear parts cement for the windows and canopies...
You can try Tamiya quick set or Mr cement sp for a fast bond. However if you spill Mr cement it will mess up youre plastic.
@@statoilbensin2190 - yup, tried it as well, didn’t really worked with my style...
Curious, what super glue is your goto?
@@katzsteel - I use a super glue brand called “Mighty Bond”, which is produced by a local industrial chemicals company here in our place (Pioneer Adhesives Inc.)…
its consistency and properties is similar to Loctite’s super glue, but over the years, they improved the formula in such a way that much of the fogging has been eliminated (provided that the fumes are ventilated while the glue sets), resulting in a much cleaner bond… and for clear parts coated with Future (or Pledge Multisurface finish, or whatever its called nowadays), it doesn’t fog anymore…
also, the company now sells various formulations of their super glue brand that has certain useful properties, for example, they have a formula that has enhanced dissimilar material bonding qualities, and a slow setting one that is very useful for major parts alignment, but when it cures, it’s tougher than the ordinary variety of the glue, which is perfect for major structural assemblies requiring alignment adjustments…
I never got to try other super glue brands like Gorilla, etc., but after hearing the horror stories of some of our modeler folks with those, I can understand why a lot of our fellows don’t recommend using super glue for modeling, and I for one, don’t think I’ll ever will use those…
@@hanschristianben505 Thanks for the info! I just watched a vid that tested many different super glues bonding plastic. Loctite came out on top and wasn’t even close. I don’t think I’ve seen Mighty Bond in my area unfortunately.
My first experience of using modeling glue was put a huge amount on the fuselage parts thinking it will be a strong join... only to watch both parts slowly melt into styrene lumps 😐
We've all been there ...
@@FineScaleModelermagazine I am still there
@@FineScaleModelermagazine …🫣🤫🫢😏 Guilty as Charged !
@Knight_Flyer - I know exactly what you mean! I did the same. Definitely a case of less is more.
superglue takes forever to set when you need it to and when you slip, it sets in a millisecond. sorry i dont make the rules
Use accelerator. Cures superglue instantly. Rules are made to be broken.
I have an acrimonious relationship(!) with CA! It will cease working when you need it to, no matter how many times I try and is as useful as trying to glue with water…. Using accelerator is messy and flows to areas it isn’t needed. Sometimes I need just a second or two to place an item with CA and an accelerator affixes too fast! I frequently replace my CA bottle in case the reason for its failure is that it’s old. I really wish some manufacture would come up with a newer version of CA that would be more reliable.
I 8th scarface i@@FineScaleModelermagazine
Very informative. Thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching!
When useing plastic glue like tamiya thin cement how well wentelated should it be, like a window open?
not sure about tamiya (waiting for my bottle to come in the mail) but i bought a bottle of testors plastic cement from a craft store and i never even smelled it.
Very good tips.
Thanks!
I will sometimes temporarily glue parts that need a base coat of paint with white glue, so that they can be disassembled for detail painting afterwards. This way, enamel or acrylic paints don’t interfere with the final bond.
We always learn new tricks that’s a good idea to prime models
I use this trick all time with landing gear doors and hatches on armoured vehicles.
I just found this video while looking for a solution to glue a suspension link of a 1/24 Formula One IXO model. Basically it broke under tension with a part remaining attached to the wheel and the other to the car body (not a good build and clearly low-quality plastics). The suspension link is made of black plastic which I don't think was painted but I don't want to use super glue anyway because it will whiten it. So my doubt is, should I go for Tamiya Extra Thin Cement or for Micro Kyrstal Klear? Thank you in advance!
It's hard to diagnose without being able to see the car, but if it broke under tensions, then Micro Krystal Klear is not going to work for you. Under the best circumstances, you'd remove the part halves from the model, repair it, paint it if needed, and then reattach. Pinning the halves and then supergluing is probably going to give you the best bet if you can't remove and replace (either with a similar part from another kit or by making one). You'll probably have to repaint the part to hide the repair no mater the direction you take.
Very useful, thank you! If a use a thin brush to apply liquid glue, how can I clean it afterwards?
You're welcome. Make sure to use an old brush because the glue will dry the bristles. When you're finished using the liquid cement, just set the brush aside and the solvent will evaporate. Most liquid cements come with a fine brush already attached to the cap.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine Thanks!!!
realizing super glue is the preferred glue for resin model is there a Tamiya glue a better option? thank you for your reply.
respectfully'
Brian
We're not sure if you mean if Tamiya thin cement is a better option for resin or if there is a better option than Tamiya thin cement in general. We'll try to answer both: Tamiya thin cement won't work on resin. Your two best options, depending on the size of the resin parts you're gluing together are either superglue or two-part epoxy (and with either you still may need to pin the joins). As for liquid cements, there are many, some more aggressive than others. Usually it comes down to personal tastes. Tamiya thin cement works well overall, but you may prefer Mr. Cement or Mr. Cement Deluxe. For really aggressive bonds or plastic that seems resistant to other thing cements, we'll turn to Plastruct or a more substantial gel cement from a tube like Testors or ZAP. But remember, those types of glues can be very aggressive, so don't apply them directly from the tube; squeeze out a bit on a piece of paper or other disposable palette and then apply with a wooden toothpick. It takes time for those glues to do the job, so clamp and then set aside overnight. Hope this helps!
thanks for info, really good stuff. But I have never seen a glue applicator. where did you get them from? They look really useful.
Very informative video, and some good tips
Glad it was helpful!
Nice ! It would of been helpful to,have links on the names and where to buy these glues ! Thanks
Great video
Great video!
Thank you!
I let the thin set glue wick into the joints. The glue stains the seams, but they disappear when I paint the model. Recently, I used some MRP lacquer based paint and the glue seams are visible. Is this because its lacquer based, or do some paints let the glue joints show through?...thanks-
Where do you geht this mat from?
What would be the best glue to bond all types of materials for kit bashing. For example, plastic, metal, glass, wood, etc. Thank you!
Hi Shawn: If you're gluing multiple medias, superglue is probably your best bet, with 5-minute epoxy for those joins you really don't want going anywhere. When using superglue, make sure you have accelerator on hand to help it cure faster.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine Awesome! Thank you!
Regards to Epoxy glues, one of the side effects is usually that it generates heat as it's drying, this is because of the chemical reaction between the parts after mixing.
Is this still a factor, and if used on large parts for example, can it effect the plastic due to the heat?
Great point! Epoxy does have a slight exothermic reaction. Typically, it's not enough to warp plastic or vinyl. But as Aaron did in this video, we usually use epoxy when attaching parts of different media where plastic cement will not work or when we really need to be sure a part is not going to come off and plastic cement or super glue may not be strong enough.
The contacta dries up in the metal applicator. Never had that problem with testors.
The only glue I've ever used is testors tube glue since the early 80's and still use it. Ive only built cars and learned how to work around the glue being stringy at times it making a mess, but I can't really speak on using it for airplanes or other models
Is it ok to use liquid super glue on the whole model, if the plastic cement is not available ? Because i don’t have plastic cement available in my country .
You technically could, but you're going to want to be extremely careful with how you apply it and how much you use.
A question please. On the Tamiya thin glue I'm down to a quarter left in the bottle and the brush doesn't reach the glue in the bottle anymore. Am I the only one that encountered this problem & what do others do ?
The brush in the cap extends further out. Just gently pull on the stem to have it extend further from the cap to reach the glue in the bottom of the bottle.
Wow - thanks, I don't know why I did not think of that. I thought for sure people don't try to pour from one bottle to another. Thanks
This may seem like common sense but I still see models with excess glue and/or used improperly! 👍
We all have glue bombs in hour past, right? A lot of times it's a matter of experience. We hope new modelers (and maybe some experienced ones, too) will see this video and it will help them improve. Thanks for watching!
…”if you need more strength with epoxy, let it dry longer”…
Wrong on two counts.
1) Epoxy does not ‘dry’… it chemically sets, or ‘cures’
2) Epoxy is sold by “work time” or “open-pot time” or “cure time”. For example “5-minute’ or ‘30-minute’ epoxy.
This is determined by the chemical composition of the particular epoxy, and you cannot ‘let it set/dry/cure longer’.
Further, the longer the cure-time, the higher the strength.
TBH, the requirements of the models we build are more than adequately met with even 5-minute epoxy..
Unless you are building a 1/1 replica of the Enterprise ‘Galileo’ shuttle, 5-min is strong enough…
The plastic will fail long before the epoxy.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and watching!
So what bout the heat that the gorilla glue gives off? Not to mention the amount that went to waste.
The exothermic reaction shouldn't be a problem for the resin or the metal part. Thanks for watching!
and if you do glue yourself to yourself, you'll be ok. That's what it was made for. 😄
Many commercial fishing vessels (and others) add CA glue to their first aid kits, a quick repair to seal edges of cuts together. I was told in ER outpatient surgery that I could start peeling off the seal ("CA glue?" I asked the nurse. She smiled.) over the external stitches after two weeks as it would start flaking. 🙂
I love you.
You look like Harrison Ford.
I can here for model tips not model tips darn u youtube😅
I like sniffing glue:-)!
We cannot approve.
Don't buy the Revell one. That needle gets clogged like crazy and it's less convenient than a brush anyway. I threw mine out after I found Tamiya.
Couldn't disagree more! Contacta is a great glue. Should the metal applicator get occluded, you can heat the tip of it with lighter and it will cook off the glue.