Excellent tips, especially as I have just re-entered model building after a long sabbatical and so much has changed in kits and materials . You even have to acquire new tools , Just got one of those saws and it works great, the pinning is also a handy tip I've been surprised about the use of epoxy and new glues..
First time buying a small model kit made from resin, years ago, I never understood what was with that solid part, that couldn't be removed with an Exacto knife. I never messed with it again, now I know what's up after this video. Maybe I'll buy some aftermarket resin parts for my kits. Sigh, this hobby was a lot cheaper, back then.
Not trying to tell you what to do, but I would have used wet 'n' dry sandpaper and keep it wet, apart from that I enjoy these little tutorials, best regards to you and the team at FSM, from Australia.
Why have I not thought of the bigger hole on the other side before... I have never tried pinning because I thought I could never achieve the working precision to make two holes fit the pin on both sides. Now I'm set, thanks a lot!
Hey Aaron, thanks for a concise video on working with resin. How would recommend getting a clean straight edge when cutting the resin from the casting block? I’ve stuffed a few pieces as I’ve ended up with a crooked gap, which even when puttied looks a bit average.
Another great tutorial, thank you. I know this will also help out a lot of folks. I also use pins when I'm attaching figures to a base for added durability and strength. Thanks again, have a great weekend. -David
The answer is it depends: You can use a rotary tool on bigger pour stubs. On small ones, you run the risk of cutting into the part. It's also a messy process with a rotary tool with dust going everywhere.
Great Lesson; I too have been out of the hobby for many many years and now see, with these newer kits, that there's a lot of multimedia being used requiring crazy glue and epoxy.
So I have multiple resin parts on a rectangle stub. Is it a good idea to cut the stubs into blocks with a snippers before removing the actual part with a razor saw ?
I would like to see a segment on painting 1/48 scale figures. There are a lot of such figures out there in 1/48 and I have no idea how to approach them.
Be good to see the same sort of item to do with 3d printed parts for model kitsets. As a lot of glues and cements will not hold. Example FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) using PLA, PETG and some other filament even super glue sometime has issues with some of the filaments of this type. Resin 3D printers produce a lot of different issues as well. But there are a few tricks to get around this as well. But in many cases with different resins and manufactures type. You need to handle the parts different to how you handle it in some respects and steps as you would per this item. A good example is large item may be semi hollow to save on resin or the resin is not fully hardened up by UV light in the center of the part. That one alone gives different issues again, as the raw unset resin. You should not let contact your skin as it's semi toxic. So latex gloves are necessary when you find an issue like that. Don't get me wrong I enjoyed this item very much and everything is valid.
Another way would drill the hole and leave a mm of copper out and push the leg piece on and make an indentation which will give you a guide to wear to better place the hole on the leg.
True. The two resins are very different. But if we were talking 3D-printed resin, we would have made the distinction. Still, this model was cast resin. Thanks for watching!
As a doctor who pulls bits of metal out of patients’ eyes all the time, please wear goggle when cutting the pin, or you’re unable to get an MRI for the rest of your life (even brass is a problem not because it is magnetic but because it is conductive it will heat up)
Not well. You're basically down to superglue or 2-part epoxy. There are some 3D-printer resins that reportedly work with solvent cements, but we have not independently confirmed this. -TK
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Late to viewing this, but getting ready to start working with resin parts. Great video, Aaron. Very informative for sure!
Excellent tips, especially as I have just re-entered model building after a long sabbatical and so much has changed in kits and materials . You even have to acquire new tools , Just got one of those saws and it works great, the pinning is also a handy tip I've been surprised about the use of epoxy and new glues..
Thanks for sharing! We are glad we could help!
This was a really good one! Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!
First time buying a small model kit made from resin, years ago, I never understood what was with that solid part, that couldn't be removed with an Exacto knife. I never messed with it again, now I know what's up after this video. Maybe I'll buy some aftermarket resin parts for my kits. Sigh, this hobby was a lot cheaper, back then.
Not trying to tell you what to do, but I would have used wet 'n' dry sandpaper and keep it wet, apart from that I enjoy these little tutorials, best regards to you and the team at FSM, from Australia.
Thanks for weighing in!
Why have I not thought of the bigger hole on the other side before... I have never tried pinning because I thought I could never achieve the working precision to make two holes fit the pin on both sides. Now I'm set, thanks a lot!
Glad we could help!
Hey Aaron, thanks for a concise video on working with resin.
How would recommend getting a clean straight edge when cutting the resin from the casting block?
I’ve stuffed a few pieces as I’ve ended up with a crooked gap, which even when puttied looks a bit average.
Your best bet is to use a razor saw (also known as a pull saw) to cut resin from the pour stub.
Thanks Aaron.
Another great tutorial, thank you. I know this will also help out a lot of folks. I also use pins when I'm attaching figures to a base for added durability and strength. Thanks again, have a great weekend. -David
Thank you for watching!
Very detailed, precise and at the same time concise. I appreciate your effort and the knowledge sharing with us. Thanks.
We are so glad to hear that you liked it! Thanks for watching!
Is using a dremel to cut off the stub a good or bad idea
The answer is it depends: You can use a rotary tool on bigger pour stubs. On small ones, you run the risk of cutting into the part. It's also a messy process with a rotary tool with dust going everywhere.
Very nice video but how about how to bond resin to polystyrene on 1:24 or 1:25 scale model cars?
Superglue or epoxy should work for that.
Great Lesson;
I too have been out of the hobby for many many years and now see, with these newer kits, that there's a lot of multimedia being used requiring crazy glue and epoxy.
Thanks for watching!
So I have multiple resin parts on a rectangle stub. Is it a good idea to cut the stubs into blocks with a snippers before removing the actual part with a razor saw ?
I would like to see a segment on painting 1/48 scale figures. There are a lot of such figures out there in 1/48 and I have no idea how to approach them.
wont a little bit of water stop the thing from making dust
Be good to see the same sort of item to do with 3d printed parts for model kitsets. As a lot of glues and cements will not hold. Example FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling) using PLA, PETG and some other filament even super glue sometime has issues with some of the filaments of this type.
Resin 3D printers produce a lot of different issues as well. But there are a few tricks to get around this as well. But in many cases with different resins and manufactures type.
You need to handle the parts different to how you handle it in some respects and steps as you would per this item. A good example is large item may be semi hollow to save on resin or the resin is not fully hardened up by UV light in the center of the part. That one alone gives different issues again, as the raw unset resin. You should not let contact your skin as it's semi toxic. So latex gloves are necessary when you find an issue like that.
Don't get me wrong I enjoyed this item very much and everything is valid.
Definitely, 3D-printed resin is different than cast resin. We'll cover 3D-printed resin in a different video.
For the frame part I might have cut it on a cut mat with an x-acto blade like a photo etched part
Another way would drill the hole and leave a mm of copper out and push the leg piece on and make an indentation which will give you a guide to wear to better place the hole on the leg.
Build on , brotha
We'll keep goin'!
Thank you so much for doing this video. Makes working with resin less intimidating.
You are so welcome!
Need a mention to differentiate between casted resin and 3D printing resin, they feel completely different
True. The two resins are very different. But if we were talking 3D-printed resin, we would have made the distinction. Still, this model was cast resin. Thanks for watching!
I always hold the pour stub as that often isn’t as flimsy as the resin part itself
That's a good tip!
As a doctor who pulls bits of metal out of patients’ eyes all the time, please wear goggle when cutting the pin, or you’re unable to get an MRI for the rest of your life (even brass is a problem not because it is magnetic but because it is conductive it will heat up)
Just a comment for the algorithm
Just a comment back.
Is there some kind of solvent that will work with this resin?
Not well. You're basically down to superglue or 2-part epoxy. There are some 3D-printer resins that reportedly work with solvent cements, but we have not independently confirmed this. -TK