I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Once the bottle gets about half way down, I fill it back up with clipped sprues. Then I use the brush in the bottle lid to apply the Sprue Goo. For figure models (I do a lot of 28MM game models) I'll often just use the sprue goo as glue, especially for slightly mismatched parts during a conversion. Then I'll use another bottle of clean cement to feather out the edge of the Goo. Seamless styrene figures every time!
I personally call it "Gloop" and it's fantastic stuff, for hole filling, smoothing out of a damaged surface, or sometimes even joining dissimilar plastics together. I made mine up in a standard Tamiya paint bottle (the square kind) and it keeps for a long time in that. Secondly, it's more practical to just load up the bottle with sprue and your solvent, and then just put on the lid. That will prevent evaporation of the solvent, and in 24 hours you will have a whole bottle of the stuff.
Two thing need to be mentioned. 1. The structure of the plastic is going to change because of it being desolved in the cement. This means that when it dries, solidifies it won't have the same consistency, or hardness as before. Applying cement to that part will melt much faster. This can cause some issues when doing panel line rescribing as that plastic is going to be softer than the rest of the model and needs more care and attention. 2. During curing bubbles can form within the gue which cannot be seen. This is a problem when you try to apply it really thick and when sanding back, bubbles will show on the surface and tiny holes. To avoid this always work with thin layers and build it up.
I gave up on it after 4 attempts. Different plastic, different solvent. No matter what, I'd get bubbles just from filling a panel line on a Hobbycraft model with it's deeper trench panel lines. Applied it, smeared it thin and let harden. Sand.... Bubbles.
@@PeterNebelung that is valuable info. I've been thinking that it might be the plastic that is a bad choice and try something else, but it looks like it is more of an issue with the whole concept. One good use of for it is to strengthen joins internally. For example if you have some gaps, or you're not happy with how strong the bond is between two thin parts, you can brush the gue on the inside where it won't bother anyone. Still one needs to be careful as it can soften the plastic if it's very thin.
I love this stuff and being more of an aircraft modeller it’s my go to for filler. I’ve found that once the sprue goo is made,, if you thin it with Mr Levelling thinner it becomes an even better filler, and it dries a lot faster if added in multiple thin coats rather than one gert big dollop. It can be smoothed over with a brush moistened with MLT when wet too so you don’t need to sand things like figure joints etc . Definitely the best filler money can’t buy imo , and lasts forever if kept in a Tamiya extra thin bottle
@@daleflying You’re welcome Dave, glad it was of help mate. One thing I will say if you’ve never used it before is to make sure it’s properly cured before sanding and painting or you could end up with ‘ghost joints’ in your models where it’s shrunk back while drying fully. The general rule of thumb is that if you can press your finger nail into it without leaving a mark,,,, it’s ready for the next step 👍
@@bpmodels Thanks again. I've used alot of Bondo, wood filler, epoxy, etc and I always like to save a scrap piece with the substance on it so I could poke at that - not the piece I'm working on. I haven't built a plastic model in almost 30 years! I'm learning so much watching TH-cam vids and reading comments. I have a stack of 16 models! My work space is mostly finished...Hoping to start the 1st in a few days. 😃👍
Better use a empty Tamiya Thin cement bottle. You got than a applicator by using the brush.And with the lid on the airbrush cleaner don,t evaporate. And you can use that bottle over and over again,by filling it up when you starting to run low. And it will not harden as in the round glas container, because the lid with the application brush on the Thin cement bottle will close better than the metal lid on the round container But when you use it,be sure that the sprue-goo gasses out a few days,dont paint over it the next day,You will get the paint bubbling up when it is dry, my own experiance☹☹☹
You really do NOT want to be breathing this stuff. Besides ventilation a respirator with organic vapor cartrdge is a sensible precaution. My dad was a chemist, took precautions but still inhaled enough stuff to get emphasima and cancer in the end. Let's be safe out there.
Handy stuff. As most have mentioned, Tamiya extra thin bottle and Evergreen. Use a bottle that's running low and getting a bit discoloured and chuck in the styrene. I use a toothpick and goo to fill deep ejector pin marks. Sit the piece level and fill the pin mark to a dome shape and it will flatten out as the solvent evaporates. Good for hard to sand spots. Dip a bit of wire in to get a ball shaped blob to make width indicators for armour or knobs on levers. But definitely, as mentioned, much ventilation. I have a fan on and window/door open in my shed when working. (Warm climate here. I imagine it's difficult in cold climates trying to get fresh airflow and not freezing!) Cheers to all.🦘🦘🦘
In the 60-70s I dissolved sprue in carbon tetrachloride (dry cleaning fluid) and used it to coat drafters linen to make and stiffen flags for Historex figures. Drafters/ draughters linen is no longer available but it was a super fine blue material coated in a wax for technical drawings in ink. You had to boil off the wax to get the linen but it was great. I think I read about it in the UK Military Models magazine.
This takes way too long for simple gaps. Keep different thicknesses of sheet styrene on hand. Put a strip in the gap and add quik-setting cement. In a minute you can trim the strip down to the surface, then sand.
A word of caution. This stuff shrinks by the amount of solvent contained within. And it does so for a long time, i.e. it takes a lot of time to completely dry out. For longer seams I'd rather glue in a length of stretched sprue or plasticard, where possible.
I make it by dissolving sprue in automotive acrylic thinner. The very best part is that when dry it has exactly the same hardness as the surrounding plastic so it will sand perfectly level. I just put the sprue pellets in the solvent in a small glass bottle and let it rest for two weeks, agitating once every other day.
Instead of cutting it into small chunks, a heavy duty old school rotary pencil sharpener with the three grinding drums makes sort work of sprues with the results being finely shredded. Best to use a new or or clean out a used one with alcohol.
I’ve done this before - it’s not as easy as it seems. However, if you didn’t have filler, it does work. And.....just using the side cutters from your car’s or garage’s tool box work great from what you want to cut.
I keep a dedicated bottle of tamiya thin cement/sprue goo. has applicator already and good for large areas and use toothpick for smaller precise spots.
I found Evergreen sheet styrene and Tamiya extra thin made a very nice goo I thought it was better than Sprue but your mileage may vary I have also tried superglue and talc which doesn't shrink as much but does not sand as well
I use sprue glue for large gaps that I find when dry fitting parts, normally engines chassis and so on. I'm one of them car guys that likes to use Bondo Glazing Putty for the body panels, it thins to feather the edges with just a touch of lacquer thinner.
I use that last bit of Extra Thin in the bottle and put evergreen off cuts into it. my current bottle was mixed up around 6 years ago and has just thickened up but works great still, its a bit stringy but thats not and issue
Another use I've seen for this, is to apply on joints where the seam is accessible on the inside of the joint to reinforce that particular joint. Don't have to worry about sanding, shrinkage, etc., as it won't be visible.
Great info! I can tell you how NOT to make sprue goo. I used the regular orange cap Tamiya cement to make sprue goo. I applied it to a car body to fill a couple holes where badges go and the stuff I made took a whole week to cure. UGH!
It'd have being nice for you to comment it takes like 1 week or even longer for the sprue goo to harden after applied… just saying. And anyway, as someone already said, it won't harden to hard plastic ever again. With time (a lot of time) will be usable, sandable, etc, but always like soft rubbery plastic, never as hard as it was in the first place. That's why it's "the same", but not the same at all to fill in those large gaps with evergreen instead of sprue goo.
Gotta disagree with your blanket statement. It's true, not all plastics will react the same way, but most plastics used in models will cure back to as hard as they were before. The plastic used in this example was from the recent AMT Razor Crest. The plastic cured as hard as it was prior to being goo-ified. And it doesn't take long to get back to sandable--24 hours and you're good to go. We're not saying not to use plastic strip to fill gaps--go right ahead. And if you're experience with sprue goo hasn't been good, then no need to utilize it. Heck, we don't use it all the time. It's just another option. Use what works best for you!
MEK is no more toxic than the acetone found in thin plastic cement/airbrush cleaner (they're the same formula), they are both ketones. They share the same handling procedures and safety precautions. Using MEK in lieu of plastic cement is perfectly acceptable and carries no additional storage/handling procedures. MEK evaporates at a slower rate than acetone, which could be good or bad depending on your application. Evaporating slower means the fumes aren't as intense, but they do linger for a longer time, so another point for good or bad depending on your application.
There's literally no difference between the extra thin cement and the airbrush cleaner (other than the price, that is, and the container both are delivered with).
As stated in the video, we did use lacquer thinners as a test. They didn't work as well as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement/Airbrush Cleaner. YMMV As always, use what works best for you.
2:04 "[Tamiya extra thin cement and airbrush cleaner] are both basically 50-50 butyl acetate and acetone." Nope. The airbrush cleaner is as you describe it; extra thin cement is 40-40-20 ethyl acetate, acetone and butanone (aka MEK), according to the MSDSes.
Before the invention of the crow bar most crows got drunk at home
😂
I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Once the bottle gets about half way down, I fill it back up with clipped sprues. Then I use the brush in the bottle lid to apply the Sprue Goo. For figure models (I do a lot of 28MM game models) I'll often just use the sprue goo as glue, especially for slightly mismatched parts during a conversion. Then I'll use another bottle of clean cement to feather out the edge of the Goo. Seamless styrene figures every time!
I personally call it "Gloop" and it's fantastic stuff, for hole filling, smoothing out of a damaged surface, or sometimes even joining dissimilar plastics together. I made mine up in a standard Tamiya paint bottle (the square kind) and it keeps for a long time in that. Secondly, it's more practical to just load up the bottle with sprue and your solvent, and then just put on the lid. That will prevent evaporation of the solvent, and in 24 hours you will have a whole bottle of the stuff.
Two thing need to be mentioned.
1. The structure of the plastic is going to change because of it being desolved in the cement. This means that when it dries, solidifies it won't have the same consistency, or hardness as before. Applying cement to that part will melt much faster. This can cause some issues when doing panel line rescribing as that plastic is going to be softer than the rest of the model and needs more care and attention.
2. During curing bubbles can form within the gue which cannot be seen. This is a problem when you try to apply it really thick and when sanding back, bubbles will show on the surface and tiny holes. To avoid this always work with thin layers and build it up.
I gave up on it after 4 attempts. Different plastic, different solvent. No matter what, I'd get bubbles just from filling a panel line on a Hobbycraft model with it's deeper trench panel lines. Applied it, smeared it thin and let harden. Sand.... Bubbles.
@@PeterNebelung that is valuable info. I've been thinking that it might be the plastic that is a bad choice and try something else, but it looks like it is more of an issue with the whole concept.
One good use of for it is to strengthen joins internally. For example if you have some gaps, or you're not happy with how strong the bond is between two thin parts, you can brush the gue on the inside where it won't bother anyone. Still one needs to be careful as it can soften the plastic if it's very thin.
I love this stuff and being more of an aircraft modeller it’s my go to for filler. I’ve found that once the sprue goo is made,, if you thin it with Mr Levelling thinner it becomes an even better filler, and it dries a lot faster if added in multiple thin coats rather than one gert big dollop.
It can be smoothed over with a brush moistened with MLT when wet too so you don’t need to sand things like figure joints etc .
Definitely the best filler money can’t buy imo , and lasts forever if kept in a Tamiya extra thin bottle
I've never used "sprue goo" but I'm going to try it and your tip on using a brush to smooth it out is a must try! Thanks.😎
@@daleflying
You’re welcome Dave, glad it was of help mate.
One thing I will say if you’ve never used it before is to make sure it’s properly cured before sanding and painting or you could end up with ‘ghost joints’ in your models where it’s shrunk back while drying fully.
The general rule of thumb is that if you can press your finger nail into it without leaving a mark,,,, it’s ready for the next step 👍
@@bpmodels
Thanks again.
I've used alot of Bondo, wood filler, epoxy, etc and I always like to save a scrap piece with the substance on it so I could poke at that - not the piece I'm working on.
I haven't built a plastic model in almost 30 years! I'm learning so much watching TH-cam vids and reading comments.
I have a stack of 16 models! My work space is mostly finished...Hoping to start the 1st in a few days. 😃👍
Hey, great tip dude!
Thanks a lot.
I will try and follow your technique 👍👍
Better use a empty Tamiya Thin cement bottle. You got than a applicator by using the brush.And with the lid on the airbrush cleaner don,t evaporate. And you can use that bottle over and over again,by filling it up when you starting to run low. And it will not harden as in the round glas container, because the lid with the application brush on the Thin cement bottle will close better than the metal lid on the round container But when you use it,be sure that the sprue-goo gasses out a few days,dont paint over it the next day,You will get the paint bubbling up when it is dry, my own experiance☹☹☹
You really do NOT want to be breathing this stuff. Besides ventilation a respirator with organic vapor cartrdge is a sensible precaution. My dad was a chemist, took precautions but still inhaled enough stuff to get emphasima and cancer in the end. Let's be safe out there.
Handy stuff. As most have mentioned, Tamiya extra thin bottle and Evergreen.
Use a bottle that's running low and getting a bit discoloured and chuck in the styrene.
I use a toothpick and goo to fill deep ejector pin marks.
Sit the piece level and fill the pin mark to a dome shape and it will flatten out as the solvent evaporates. Good for hard to sand spots.
Dip a bit of wire in to get a ball shaped blob to make width indicators for armour or knobs on levers.
But definitely, as mentioned, much ventilation. I have a fan on and window/door open in my shed when working.
(Warm climate here. I imagine it's difficult in cold climates trying to get fresh airflow and not freezing!)
Cheers to all.🦘🦘🦘
In the 60-70s I dissolved sprue in carbon tetrachloride (dry cleaning fluid) and used it to coat drafters linen to make and stiffen flags for Historex figures. Drafters/ draughters linen is no longer available but it was a super fine blue material coated in a wax for technical drawings in ink. You had to boil off the wax to get the linen but it was great. I think I read about it in the UK Military Models magazine.
This takes way too long for simple gaps. Keep different thicknesses of sheet styrene on hand. Put a strip in the gap and add quik-setting cement. In a minute you can trim the strip down to the surface, then sand.
A word of caution. This stuff shrinks by the amount of solvent contained within. And it does so for a long time, i.e. it takes a lot of time to completely dry out.
For longer seams I'd rather glue in a length of stretched sprue or plasticard, where possible.
I make it by dissolving sprue in automotive acrylic thinner. The very best part is that when dry it has exactly the same hardness as the surrounding plastic so it will sand perfectly level. I just put the sprue pellets in the solvent in a small glass bottle and let it rest for two weeks, agitating once every other day.
ditto, cellulose thinners and polystyrene packaging also works! i add celly to tamiya extra thin, works for me!
I use with Blue Stuff, to make new or more parts . I made an extra torpedo for the Revell “S”boat, took about three days to harden off.
Instead of cutting it into small chunks, a heavy duty old school rotary pencil sharpener with the three grinding drums makes sort work of sprues with the results being finely shredded. Best to use a new or or clean out a used one with alcohol.
That's an interesting tip!
That is brilliant!
I’ve done this before - it’s not as easy as it seems. However, if you didn’t have filler, it does work.
And.....just using the side cutters from your car’s or garage’s tool box work great from what you want to cut.
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing.
I keep a dedicated bottle of tamiya thin cement/sprue goo. has applicator already and good for large areas and use toothpick for smaller precise spots.
Pratley putty is a good one as well. I use it to repair headstones and it holds the stone nicely. It's just another version of milliput.
I found Evergreen sheet styrene and Tamiya extra thin made a very nice goo I thought it was better than Sprue but your mileage may vary I have also tried superglue and talc which doesn't shrink as much but does not sand as well
I miss those little glass jars of baby food. The tops sealed quite nicely and it kept the gassing off to a minimum.
I use sprue glue for large gaps that I find when dry fitting parts, normally engines chassis and so on. I'm one of them car guys that likes to use Bondo Glazing Putty for the body panels, it thins to feather the edges with just a touch of lacquer thinner.
I use that last bit of Extra Thin in the bottle and put evergreen off cuts into it. my current bottle was mixed up around 6 years ago and has just thickened up but works great still, its a bit stringy but thats not and issue
The Pucara on the top left of the screen... as a argentinian im proud...
Another use I've seen for this, is to apply on joints where the seam is accessible on the inside of the joint to reinforce that particular joint. Don't have to worry about sanding, shrinkage, etc., as it won't be visible.
Interesting tip. Thanks for sharing!
Great info!
I can tell you how NOT to make sprue goo. I used the regular orange cap Tamiya cement to make sprue goo. I applied it to a car body to fill a couple holes where badges go and the stuff I made took a whole week to cure. UGH!
It'd have being nice for you to comment it takes like 1 week or even longer for the sprue goo to harden after applied… just saying. And anyway, as someone already said, it won't harden to hard plastic ever again. With time (a lot of time) will be usable, sandable, etc, but always like soft rubbery plastic, never as hard as it was in the first place. That's why it's "the same", but not the same at all to fill in those large gaps with evergreen instead of sprue goo.
Gotta disagree with your blanket statement. It's true, not all plastics will react the same way, but most plastics used in models will cure back to as hard as they were before. The plastic used in this example was from the recent AMT Razor Crest. The plastic cured as hard as it was prior to being goo-ified. And it doesn't take long to get back to sandable--24 hours and you're good to go. We're not saying not to use plastic strip to fill gaps--go right ahead. And if you're experience with sprue goo hasn't been good, then no need to utilize it. Heck, we don't use it all the time. It's just another option. Use what works best for you!
Awesome video again!!
No Maiden shirt? Lol
Up the Irons!!🤘
Thanks! Up the Irons!
is citadels plastic glue a good substitute for Tamiya?
MEK is no more toxic than the acetone found in thin plastic cement/airbrush cleaner (they're the same formula), they are both ketones. They share the same handling procedures and safety precautions. Using MEK in lieu of plastic cement is perfectly acceptable and carries no additional storage/handling procedures. MEK evaporates at a slower rate than acetone, which could be good or bad depending on your application. Evaporating slower means the fumes aren't as intense, but they do linger for a longer time, so another point for good or bad depending on your application.
I make mine with MEK. It's worked great for me.
Can you use different color sprue trees for this?
Yes. No difference.
I use an old tamiya paint container and shave the sprue with an exacto. way faster with shavings.
In the early-mid 70’s, I think we use to call the mix of plastic and acetone “acetate”
Has anyone used glow in the dark sprue goo on a glow in the dark model. Or a cleat goo on visible model
Would doing this with left over resin from 3D print work for this?
Probably not. It's not styrene, so it will not react the same to the plastic cement.
Thank you.
Don't use painted sprue. It never dissolves and contaminates your goo.
I should have watched this first. I put my sprue in regular Mr hobby plastic cement.
MEK, or butanone is a constituent of tobacco smoke. Serious animal health effects have been seen only at very high levels.
When he says “sprue glue” out of the side of his mouth, he reminds me of Doug McKenzie (of Bob & Doug McKenzie “Great White North” fame).
Mine always shrinks.
I usually apply a couple of runs as it will shrink as the glue evaporates.
@@michaelgrey7854 I did it but it requires too much time compared to cyano glue. Plastic goo shrinks for 2-3 days before stopping.
It’s funny because I have so much MEK due to working with fabric aircraft.
There's literally no difference between the extra thin cement and the airbrush cleaner (other than the price, that is, and the container both are delivered with).
Yep
Goo Splooge?😳
Jman
I remember using this in the 70's as a kid before I heard of putty, or maybe that wasn't invented yet?
Why oh why wd you use the highly expensive overpriced glues from mainstream suppliers to make sprue goo instead of cellulose thinners!
As stated in the video, we did use lacquer thinners as a test. They didn't work as well as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement/Airbrush Cleaner. YMMV As always, use what works best for you.
👁👁
2:04 "[Tamiya extra thin cement and airbrush cleaner] are both basically 50-50 butyl acetate and acetone."
Nope. The airbrush cleaner is as you describe it; extra thin cement is 40-40-20 ethyl acetate, acetone and butanone (aka MEK), according to the MSDSes.
Sorry, but we're going to have to disagree with you. According to the SDS for both, there is 1% difference in the makeup. We, too, do our research.