Thanks Aaron. I have been building models for years now and by far I find scribing panel lines to be the hardest thing to do... and get right. I have bought several types of scribers but my favorite is a home made one from a broken off blade from a tiny circle cutter.
It definitely made our assistant editor Kendra nervous, too. It should go without saying that these tools are meant for use on models, NOT skin, and to exercise caution when using them!
Very good tutorial. I cut my dymo tape in half with scissors in slightly wave cuts to distinguish the straight edge of the tape. That way I double the use of the roll. There are scribing tapes exclusively for scale modeling but I prefer the Dymo tape. It's thicker and can be reused several times.
Thank you for these great suggestions. Lately I have been working on 3D printed FDM, PLA models. From aircraft, armor, and spacecraft. In the majority of 3D printed models, panel lines are rarely included. If panel lines are included, the amount of sanding required tends to obliterate that level of detail. In the end I'm nearly starting from scratch. Would you use the same tools and techniques for a normal box model, on a build made of PLA? PLA seems harder to scribe on in my experience. Can you or any other model builders offer some suggestions please. I don't have access to resin printers so that is not an option, and all my 3D printing is done via a Prusa i3mk3s.
This is a more advanced skill a modeler will ever run into, if ever. I have an old kit with raised lines and I watch this and...and I'm scared lol Great video but man, this kind of skill will take practice. Aaron's a pro.
Put tape on either side of an existing raised panel line and spread some filler where it was sanded off. Let in dry and remove the tape. Viola! Raised panel lines restored.
Good information 👍. I've seen some builds on youtube where ancient kits were really brought up to modern standards with replacement of raised panel lines with scribed lines.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine Figures with the elevated word intonation at the end of nearly every sentence. Almost can't listen to anyone speaking like that these days.
The absolute worst- for my abilities- as well as the most expensive, is the Tamiya scriber with the handle and replaceable (0.1 mm, 0.2 mm...) blade. I can't maintain the blade within the confines of the panel line- try as I might. I have tried different sizes, so it is my poor control with the tool which causes my problem. The back of a #16 blade with the point honed to a scraper-like edge, gives me the most satisfactory result and doesn't look like a plowed furrow. For specific jobs, my homemade tools usually work best for me. At any rate, your videos are understandable and enjoyable. Stay well and happy, sir! Best wishes from the hills of Virginia. Cork
Very nice tutorial. This is something most modelers will appreciate. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
A very useful technique that many newcomers to the hobby would love to discover. Thanks, FSM!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Aaron. I have been building models for years now and by far I find scribing panel lines to be the hardest thing to do... and get right. I have bought several types of scribers but my favorite is a home made one from a broken off blade from a tiny circle cutter.
We hope these tips helped, then! Thank you for watching!
Omg it's so uncomfortable to watch you dragging a blade across your hand 😅
Thanks for the tutorial!
It definitely made our assistant editor Kendra nervous, too. It should go without saying that these tools are meant for use on models, NOT skin, and to exercise caution when using them!
Very good tutorial. I cut my dymo tape in half with scissors in slightly wave cuts to distinguish the straight edge of the tape. That way I double the use of the roll. There are scribing tapes exclusively for scale modeling but I prefer the Dymo tape. It's thicker and can be reused several times.
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching and sharing your tips!
I do the same thing.
Thank you for these great suggestions. Lately I have been working on 3D printed FDM, PLA models. From aircraft, armor, and spacecraft. In the majority of 3D printed models, panel lines are rarely included. If panel lines are included, the amount of sanding required tends to obliterate that level of detail. In the end I'm nearly starting from scratch. Would you use the same tools and techniques for a normal box model, on a build made of PLA? PLA seems harder to scribe on in my experience. Can you or any other model builders offer some suggestions please. I don't have access to resin printers so that is not an option, and all my 3D printing is done via a Prusa i3mk3s.
Brill, ty!
This is a more advanced skill a modeler will ever run into, if ever. I have an old kit with raised lines and I watch this and...and I'm scared lol Great video but man, this kind of skill will take practice. Aaron's a pro.
Put tape on either side of an existing raised panel line and spread some filler where it was sanded off. Let in dry and remove the tape. Viola! Raised panel lines restored.
@@Chilly_Billy Video of anyone ever doing this?
A raised panel line is a good representation of a lap joint. They aren't all bad.
Great tips. Especially using the straight edge of a piece of used photo etch as a guide for the scribe.
I knew I saved some edge pieces for something.
Good information 👍.
I've seen some builds on youtube where ancient kits were really brought up to modern standards with replacement of raised panel lines with scribed lines.
What are good scribing tools for white metal?
Another type of saw that’s very handy for a fuselage are the Tamiya ones that fit into an X-acto handle.
Its much better, Nigel
Off topic: What's your accent?
Aaron's from Australia.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine not for a while I'd say!!
@@FineScaleModelermagazine Figures with the elevated word intonation at the end of nearly every sentence. Almost can't listen to anyone speaking like that these days.
The absolute worst- for my abilities- as well as the most expensive, is the Tamiya scriber with the handle and replaceable (0.1 mm, 0.2 mm...) blade. I can't maintain the blade within the confines of the panel line- try as I might. I have tried different sizes, so it is my poor control with the tool which causes my problem. The back of a #16 blade with the point honed to a scraper-like edge, gives me the most satisfactory result and doesn't look like a plowed furrow. For specific jobs, my homemade tools usually work best for me. At any rate, your videos are understandable and enjoyable. Stay well and happy, sir! Best wishes from the hills of Virginia. Cork
Understandable! Always use the tools that suit you best and give you the best results.
Great tutorial
Thanks
Great video and very timely as I am about to do an old Monogram Kingfisher kit just like yours!
Glad we could help! Good luck with your project!
I can't believe how much you look like Tim Allen
Maybe Tim Allen looks like Aaron 😉