DOMINOES! The secret to installing SUBFLOORS in your VAN
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2022
- The subfloor is the foundation for all your van build efforts. The subfloor must be flat, true and plumb. Otherwise, your entire build will be compromised. This is part two revealing a few more master builder's secrets to a successful van build.
Watch PART ONE here: • Plumbing the floor in ...
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#onahumbleroad #customtransitvan #customvanbuild - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I am constantly amazed at your engineering and attention to detail. When I win the lottery I want you to build my van
Nothing better than working with a team of professionals that care about the quality of their work.
Great job team!
Much appreciated!
George, indeed the holy grail of floor construction. This has been debated on forums to no end. You showed that it could be done.
Nice engineering. And the crew got the floor in pretty fast, including the aligning.
Indeed! The alignment was proven with the cardboard test pieces. I tell ya, these CNC machines are really gonna catch on!!
Those are the nicest cardboard templates I’ve ever seen lol
George, you and your team have really got the low down on awesome van builds. This subfloor is cut and placed with exacting precision and synchronization. Beautiful, like smooth jazz. Details, oh my!
“And then the screwing begins”
-Key in reggae outro
Great process on the floor. With the cnc, you may not need templates anymore 😉
Thank you for dropping more nuggets of wisdom!
Thanks again, nice to know about the joists, better late than never. And thanks for the humor. ✌
You bet!
The great thing about the team you are building at Humble Road…. Everyone has the same qualities that you have to make perfection the minimum for every step of the build. Congratulations George, you are building something special here. 😎👍✅✅✅✅✅
Thank you, Andrew!👍
Happy Sunday!
Same to you!
Hi George
Always Enjoy A Humble Road Video ..
Thanks
I think I enjoy reading all the comments almost as much as I enjoy watching your videos😜. Biscuits, dominoes, never knew these terms related to construction😜 More tidbits I’ve learned from you. 👨🏻🔧
Beautiful!!
Many of your videos end in one word - Wow! The perfection is incredible.
More awesome ideas. Thanks for sharing them with us! 💖
-Troy & Aimee
George, you are beyond the next level! You are Amazing! What a team!
Very impressive!
You are absolutely so precise and attention to detail is exemplary . I so love this show . Tytyty ❤️🙏🏼💜
With a small sharp plane, you could plane a taper angle on four sides of each domino so they would fold in more easily. Or use biscuits if they won't break from extreme angles while bending from harsh angles while assembling.
I'm always happy to see one of your videos. I have 2 dogs and wished we'd fit into a humble rode ride.
Looks a great start. Everything should just fall into place with this accurate foundation. I like how your technique has evolved. Cheers!
Built quality is getting improvised.. 👍
like watching a bespoke suit being made well done team
Idea.
Build 2 wooden "handles".
Screw them to what will be the upper face, an inch Back from the joint you're installing.
That will let you lift, twist and position more easily.
When it's in, unscrew.
You're on fire this morning! 💪🏼
@@HumbleRoad
1 more!
(For safe installation)
Handle on all four corners.
Dry fit.
Take 2 "sawhorses" ("trestles"?) Place front and rear.
Person on each corner.
Lift board.
Shuffle saw horses under.
Apply adhesive as required.
Remove trestles and lower.
With 3" + feet working room,
you should end up with the adhesive on the floor rather than on your arms! 😁
OR!
If this goes in before the roof insulation, rope through the van roof beams, tie to handles.lift, tie off rope?
Though conventional wisdom calls for it, I cannot just stay true to my current location on your Humble Road library of videos (still 2 years back), when notification of your latest video rings. Today is no exception.
One cool thing I get to experience here, is the dichotomy which exists between the archive videos and your current Sunday publications. Suddenly, there is a crew that is actually on site to assist you in implementing your ideas, when the time comes to actually schlepp in and out of the van, all of the essential components to your idea.
Sure, there is an intimacy aspect that is lost to just you & I (the viewer, calm down ha) being present, when auditing the latest episodes, but, I trust that that is an aspect you have happily retired, when such tasks as moving 85 lb. futons & other bulky, or tedious, chores arise..
Oh well, it’s back to continue the“Humble Road” I was currently traveling….
***Floor Bscuits, check!***
(I still have the factory floor in on my 2021 ProMaster & “planning” is still the current mantra over here)
Prayers to you & yours,
Dominoes and biscuits are not the same. Dominoes are more structural.
@@HumbleRoad
Thank you, sir..
I do know that I would put down good money on dominoes during any time of day; however, only in the morning hours could I say the same for biscuits …
(I will rewatch this vid again armed with your suggestion & I will make notations accordingly…..)
Thank you again,
"Mauros Marvels" strike again. 😱 Simple genius. Captivating to watch too. Thank you ! "So many skill sets, so little time."
What about using coosa board (light weight fiberglass composite board) instead of plywood? Coosa board is very expensive but lighter and doesn’t rot or swell.
It's a great product. And if my shop was in Maryland or Florida, I'd be using it. But as you said, it's expensive, and not available in my neck of the woods. The shipping would kill me.
Don't know the physical properties of bamboo plywood. That is a new emerging product.
Marine grade stuff is overkill, but that is George's middle name anyway.
Kevin, I haven't heard of it before but will look into it, thank you.
I'll be traveling with three dogs and moisture and swelling are a big concern. I haven't started my build yet but will soon.
I was planning on a simple plywood sub floor with vinyl waterproof flooring over the top. I'm guessing if the vinyl flooring isn't glued in place I should be okay? I will need to have a rubberized caulking around the perimeter of my floor at the base of every cabinet so no water, anything, (one dog occasionally will vomit), can get underneath.
This may be too vague...
Any input?
Hi Noah's (Ark) I am dancing on my ceiling, put another brick in my wall, of joy when I see that how entertaining sub floor laying can be.
Well done as usual George. Thanks and keep up the fabulous work! Great team you have assembled there! Have you considered engineered tongue and groove subfloor? The connection is continuous, strong, and designed for expansion and contraction (no glue). I would imagine the cost difference is a factor and I would propose the plywood version not the OSB version.
What are the specs on the square tubing you use for the floor? Material, size, thickness, etc.
Thanks!
Like a glove.
Connecting the plywood sections is a good idea, biscuits would have worked much easier.
I love working with aluminum but it's one of the worst thermal insulators. I'd use square fiberglass rods under the plywood, a bit more money but worth it in my humble opinion.
Biscuits are a good idea too.
Fiberglass rods are a great idea for thermal considerations.
Hi George, you are so creative and inspiring, you convinced me I could build my own van. Even with many years of construction experience and a number of years working for architecture firms It is not easy at all. If you want to do it right, you have to really consider all materials and fastening systems is whole new context. Vibration (what I call the perpetual earthquake effect of driving down the road), rust and corrosion from the humidly (human, cooking and the dew point condensation), OMG, my van build has turned into a wake up nightly thinking of new things I should be thinking of or doing deeper dives into.
You and your team are doing amazing work, doing it the right way! Okay, enough rambling (I am supposed to be working on the van). I do have a question.
I have put in my van floor using the same system as you are using (Plywood over 1" square aluminum tubing glued to the metal deck). I bought stainless steel fasteners and then started to question whether 304 stainless will rust (as it stuck to my magnet). What I am reading says that galvanic corrosion will occur when using stainless steel fasteners into aluminum.
Should I worry or just go back to sleep? Galvanized or zinc plated seem like they may not hold up well to moisture. Cadmium plated fasteners maybe. What have I got myself into.
You’ve got a great team, George!! Happy My Ron (🤣) is doing great work for the builds…your business will be everlasting. And, it’s nice to see the young lady working on the team!! Was she just a helper for the day or is she permanent?
Anneliese is a full time worker.
Simple lap joint is much easier to install the sheets (and easy to execute with that CNC). Use a very strong adhesive (or epoxy) to glue the sheets together - the joint will be stronger than the wood and flat as long as you put lots of weight on top while the epoxy is setting up.
You'll build my van. One day! ☺️
Another nice one!
I was thinking, maybe sanding the edges of the dominos a bit can help it centre in the slots a little quicker?
Taper the edge of each rectangular spline dowel on four sides.
A sharp hand plane would do the trick.
This channel includes nice builds and is good source of inspiration and knowledge. Thank you for that. Keep on raising those standards. Is the subfloor mounted to the aluminium beams with adhesive and self tapping screws?
Thank you for your kind words. Yes the subfloor is glued and screwed
You have a Myron and a Ron, if I end up working for you, I’m Ron-ron. Then you’ll just need to hire an Aaron.
🤣
Great job as always... question not related to sub-flooring - How are you securing the fabricated Stainless shower pans to the subfloor / van floor?... Or will we have to wait for that episode? Thanks George
shower pan gets glued
Wait a second George!! That was a delicious appetizer finely prepared and presented...yet I'm a bit selfish and seem to want more from Chef Chip and the Humble Road Band!!... Can't you direct a full length feature each week in between busting out three or four vans simultaneously?! Was looking forward to a bit more screwing, but I'm simple that way! ;-) As always, wonderful, thoughtful and full of precision with even artful detail behind the walls, or in this case, below the floors! Stay warm!! Cheers! -Perry
Excellent Job George with your A-1 crew. So, when are you going to get a short school bus, 22-24’ long and do a build. They are sturdier and wider to make a roomier RV. Wider roof means more solar panels and vents. I bet it will be a hit, because no company are offering the version. Always thinking......
I just watched a video about one of your builds for "Sam" and his hidden shower.... You are a genius dear sir and I hope if my van life dream ever comes to fruition, that I will have the pleasure of being a client of yours! Thank you for your expertise, business and this video!! And I loved looking at your handsome hands and very clean fingernails!
Wow, thank you!
great timing on video! working on subfloor this week. Do you glue the plywood to your square aluminum tubing as well? or just screws? thanks!
Glue and screw
Ever heard of an auto feed screw gun? Lots of floor guys/deckbuilders use them. Increased efficiency/ergonics (less bending over, or being on your knees).
Have seen that or something similar used for drywall installs. The screws are held in a plastic strip.
Really nice subfloor, well done. At 6'4" I am always concerned about robbing my overhead clearance.
How could you make that subfloor thinner and just as robust?
I would suggest 3/4" plywood glued directly to the van chassis floor. Spray insulation undercarriage
What kind of crew for 5/8 plywood?
George, loving this flooring system. Was wondering if have you considered using ZIP System R-sheathing by Huberwood (like home builders are starting to use on exterior walls) and using your CNC to cut it. The Zip system R- sheathing has a water shedding barrier built onto the outer surface (green in the photos), followed by an advantech layer, and a rigid foam layer. You would just need to use the zip flashing tape for the seams. Just spit-balling.
Thank you, I’ll check it out.
Interesting product. Has merit in a van build, however, I need to check on the indoor safety of this product. Could it off-gas toxic?
I'll be the second commenter.
Was waiting for the right video to ask my question. I commenting before I watch it.
Maybe you will mention this.
Do you get squeaks from the rigid insulation and plywood?
So far, no squeaks. We glue the foam down to the chassis floor and it is ever so slightly less than the full one inch aluminum, so I don't believe there is much contact.
Someday you may sell “piece parts” or kits - here is your cnc cut subfloor pieces for your model, shipping extra! …. Or the template program for folks to contract with a local cnc operator…..
Have you written the book on this yet? I can't imagine a better teacher.
aluminum and foam are glued to van floor, then wood is glued and screwed to aluminum?
Build de vans, mon, and day will come. I may even get some for I island, mon...
Why not mark the screw holes using the CNC?
Just a 16th deep "dot" which the screwhead will cover?
.
And a 1/2" gap on the sheet at the front of the wheel arch will let it drop without struggle(?) I'm assuming that will be covered by cabinets?
.
Maybe a finger hole in a convenient spot on the sheet to allow easy handling? (CNC a plug to fill it in the scrap area of the sheet?)
Would save a few minutes per van, but it adds up.
Edit.
It may be easier to install the dominoes on the sheet you're dropping in, rather than the one that's pre-installed? Easier to "aim"?
Good ideas! 👍
What size of aluminium bars did you use, how much of a weight savings would you make vs wood? 10%, 30% or...?
Thanks again
1”x1” square tube aluminum, 1/8” thick wall
George, I was rewatching the subfloor video and I think you should abandon the domino (dowel type) mating system you used. I think it might be better to create an edge on one side of each plywood that mates with the next edge like a tongue and groove planks. You could design it so that all you need to do is drop the plywood in, your CNC can cut the edges with the right tolerance built in (for wood to expand/contract) and they easily mate with the next one. More like a half lap and less like a dowel system. No lining up dowels. You could make the mating edges as wide or as narrow as you want, and even line them up so that the screws go through both mating edges and then into the aluminum joists. The big plus is that they just get dropped into place.
A lap joint would not work, but tongue and groove would be best.
Awesome job and great videos. Are you worried about thermal bridging from the van floor through to the aluminum floor struts? Could you also have a subfloor without any framing struts by just gluing larger insulation sheets directly to the van floor and then glue your plywood to foam board insultaion? Is there a benefit to framing the subfloor in this manner?
A main concern I have as well, I have a hard time imaging the thermal bridging of the hollow aluminum struts are not insignificant.
The aluminum is set in a thick dollop of marine adhesive and the plywood over top is an insulator as well. The overall surface area of each of those one inch joists is negligible as compared to the structural integrity it provides as opposed to any other material. I have lived in extremely cold climates in a Pleasure Way, where the plywood is glued directly to the chassis floor. Nothing a runner rug couldn’t fix.
"as compared to the structural integrity it provides as opposed to any other material"…
As the plywood deck will distribute any load equally to the joists beneath it, a wooden one should have done it as well, without that thermal bridging issue - and even cheaper.
❤️❤️
Hi George, I was wondering how your going to cover the ugly metal on rear doors, I hope you come up with something good. Im at a lost what to do with mine
Stay tuned!
George, nice progress. Your shop and your vans will all get exponentially better with that CNC. You can now very easily make any tool or jig you want. Just wait until you start cutting aluminum parts. Magnifico!
BTW, what do you think of the idea of filling your aluminum square floor joists with insulating foam?
The aluminum tubes are hollow, so that air space doesn't really need any insulation. The tube is glued down to the chassis floor, that dollop provides SOME (read: very little) thermal break. Then the plywood on top, which is a good insulator. Then a finished floor with generally a cork backing, then a runner area rug. My experience is that it's fine, unless you will be in extreme cold climates. In which case we would build accordingly.
@@HumbleRoad The R value of an air gap is 1.01 per 3.5 inches, the common thickness of a residential wall, divided to 1 inch and you get an R value of 0.286. However, 1 inch aluminum tubes only have an air gap of 0.75 due to the 0.125 thickness of the aluminum walls, so the gap itself is only 0.75 in space, giving you an R value of only 0.216. Closed cell spray foam has an R value of between 5-7 per inch depending on the product, so lets assume a 6 for these discussions. An aluminum tube filled with closed cell spray foam would then give you an R value of 4.5. I would say that a 4.5 is much greater than 0.216. Although a thermal break still needs to considered for between those Aluminum joists and the floor since metal conducts heat/cold very well. Food for thought George. Love your channel as always. Thank you for listening.
I like your calculations, Eric. And yes, you have shown me that it is beneficial to include spray foam inside the floor joists. You've also sparked an idea in my pea brain to take it one step further. How about routing a radiant tube through each joist? Protected floor heat!
@@HumbleRoad just FYI, I assumed a closed cell foam product, not the typical open cell foam cans commonly seen at Home Despot. Putting in radiant floor heating into the joists is an interesting idea, but I would not use this with the foam, only 1 or the other. I can only imagine the nightmare of fixing a leaking line encased in sprayfoam inside an aluminum square tube glued to the floor of a van. That has to violate your "accessibility rule"...
By the way you need some Merch. For example: Orange Humbleroad sweatshirts that say "Options". Thanks George!
Is that 3/4" marine plywood?
It's not marine ply
Firstly, I really enjoy watching Humble Road! I'm building my first van conversion and I have found your channel very useful as well as entertaining.
Secondly, a question. Have you considered or tried building the floor in quite opposite order? I mean first plywood (but quite a bit thinner) to smooth the ridges, then the XPS foam boards without aluminum bars and then directly on top of that the final floor. The reason I'm asking is because XPS has good compression strength, so if the floor is smooth, I would guess, it would be strong enough. I'm going to experiment with this approach as I need to save height as much as possible. I already tested without the plywood, but the ridges caused some sqweeking.
Firstly, thank you for your support! My build philosophy is that I leave the ridge valleys under the floor for air flow. I have done a few videos explaining my theory.
@@HumbleRoad Wow, that was a quick reply! I fully agree on the airflow. The idea was to keep the air flowing under the plywood. Maybe a bit complicated to explain the structure :)
I also realized that my comment would have been more suitable in the earlier video on thefloor structure
Does the alum transfer a lot of cold from van floor to ply?
No. The percentage of the overall floor area that is the aluminum is miniscule. And the 3/4" plywood on top of the joists is a good thermal break.
If anyone could do it and do it with aplomb it would be George and his new crew. I hope a customer comes along to give him the challenge. A cargo van fitted out with scaled back mechanicals that can work during the week and adventure during the weekend or vacation. Roll'in-Roll'out modules with quick connect mechanicals and quick clamp style connectors to secure the modules. Obviously compromises on both cargo and adventure modes. The existing module style 80\20 setup he uses would lend itself beautifully to this. I'm sure his head is exploding with ideas he has not got the opportunity to use yet.
Aluminum joists is better than wood? (Under the floor)
Toad,
No, aluminum joists “are” better than wood…
Is there a certain brand of water tank you recommend?
No specific brand. Just make sure it is a thick-walled variety. Generally, you get what you pay for. This is not an area to skimp.
Where do you get all of your cardboard from?
Local
George, for heated floors, would a heating element go beneath or above the subfloor?
An electric heating element would go on top of the plywood. Hydro would go under.
@@HumbleRoad
Thank you! I'll ask which is better when we get closer to working with you. My wife and I are feverishly looking for a Sprinter van to purchase so we can get our conversion started, prayerfully, in 2023.
@@HumbleRoad . . . AND . . . (hydro) under the insulation or on top of . . . ?
insulation on the bare chassis floor, then the tubing with reflective grills in an air cavity, then the subfloor, then the finish floor.
What's the minimum thickness of the ply to make use of these dominos? And what's the difference between dominos and biscuits? Looks like these are just generally beefier than biscuits.
Dominoes are more structural than biscuits. We used them in 3/4" plywood.
George- Quick one here. I'm seeing some insulation with the vapor barrier to the inside and some lacking the barrier. What gives? ps-much snow?
I don't use a vapor barrier. I believe, unless constructed by NASA, a vapor barrier in a van will fail and retain moisture.
@@HumbleRoad ...so that black I see is not the VP of Thinsulate? I recall a prior vid of a ceiling with the narrow boards being used and assumed that was Thin/VP with the black sound down too, but I got it wrong?
The black fabric on Thinsulate is not a vapor barrier. It is a mounting surface for the fiber and a means for adhesive. Thinsulate can also be had with the black fabric on both sides. I think the black stuff you were referring to in the old video was heavy mass vinyl. I use that as a heat absorption.
Those dominos seem to be great once they're in but a bit of a pain to install. I'd be tempted to not use the dominos but instead use some backing underneath the joint so the joint can be screwed down to it.
It really wasn’t that difficult. A matter of a minute to line them up. Once installed, the only thing better than dominoes is no seam at all.
Have you thought about gluing the entire floor together adding some pocket hole screws, then once dried take the whole subfloor in on an angle and slide and drop it into place?
Unmanagable and the joints, which should not be tight, would break open the minute you lifted and turned the assembly.
@Humble Road you said in the video that the joints can't be tight, but the entire floor is screwed down, so there wouldn't be any movement in the subfloor.. Would you not need to worry about buckleing in the cracks if there's no movement in the subfloor?
Even though it is glued and screwed, the wood can still swell and receed at the seams. I remember doing a science experiment when I was a kid. We put a nail in a young tree, 3 feet off the ground. As the years went by and the tree grew tall and thick, the nail remained 3 feet off the ground.
@Humble Road from what I understand about trees, especially in a forest, is they compete for the sun! The tree tops stretch as high as they can go, but the higher they go, the deeper and wider the roots need to be to keep them standing proud thats why the nail stayed right where it was lol but on that note the seems shouldn't swell unless you have a leak somewhere or a really bad moisture problem. There's a lot of van builders out there, but your videos are awesome 👌 keep pumping them out my friend 😀
Thank you, Wayne!
KUDOS
Thanks for sharing. Like 274. View 1770
Are you using marine grade plywood?
No, but will be switching to Baltic 13 ply
@@HumbleRoad The plywood delaminating just isn't a concern in the subfloor or is there another reason why marine ply isn't worth it for a van?
@@CPRebels21 You said it, the risk of immersion is not the same in a van as it would be on a boat. Far less moisture,
@@HumbleRoad i have a g20 and weight is something i must keep in mind. I always use pine in my build and have looked at the other wood species and their order of weight. I know weight isnt a concern for you folks in the bigger vans but if you can toss in some info on the species and some weight lessons to cover all builds. :)
I do not understand why you are using such deep thick biscuits. The thin oval ones do the same job of preventing the two pieces of plywood from flexing independently. I also use wood glue in the plywood seams and you would need to saw a new seem to separate the panels. I also paint both sides to protect the floor from absorbing any moisture **when** there are water leaks or spills. I had a water heater freeze six years ago and I have had no flooring issues. Also I have a mesh membrane under the floor to allow air under the wood floor. I would be interested on your thoughts, maybe I'm missing a potential problem.
Biscuits and Dominoes are not the same. Dominoes are structurally superior. We glued one end of the domino and left the other end dry for expansion.
Tong and groove plywood maybe?
Tongue in groove plywood only works. If you don’t have to cut the sheet we have to cut the sheet.
❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️❣️
why not reduce the first 1/4" of the dominoes so they have more wiggle room?
George, i see you are using a Loctite adhesive now instead of the 3m 5200 to attach your alum. tubing to the floor, which Loctite do you use?
PLMarine
So I guess my question is why not biscuits instead of the dominos? I she been using them for decades in cabinet work. They allow for just a little bit of alignment room.
Biscuits and Dominoes are not the same. Dominoes are structurally superior.
Do you have a contact or website to contact you?
email: georgemauro@humbleroad.tv
You could have splined that ply super easy, glue one side of spline. A router and a spline bit…..Flooring supply sells spline if you don’t want to make it. Spline won’t affect overall dimensions of pieces like cutting a tongue with a router would. Dominos are great but not in this application. Beautiful work you do on these vans.
First
Ah youth. No need for knee cushions/pads. My knees don't like kneeling on hard surfaces anymore.
That aluminum beams under the floor? Never saw a more irritating assembly of thermal bridges (yes, frying pans are made of aluminum for that exact same reason - perfect heat/temperature transfer). Here you should definitely go with wood in this place.
JFTR, in case there is something squeaking in that Van, unglued dominoes might be a reason for that, like on old staircases a "rubbing" wooden joint…
Aluminum bracing under the subfloor seems like a terrible idea. Aluminum creates a huge thermal bridge as it conducts heat much more efficiently than most materials. The XPS should be able to handle most loads, but if more is needed wood would be better.
Wood is an organic material. It is subject to all kinds of problematic issues that aluminum is not.
@@HumbleRoad I have seen lots of wood in your other videos so I’m a bit confused by your response. Also like I said the XPS insulation has a decent PSI and should be good with plywood on top to distribute any forces. And if you shop around you can get higher PSI rated XPS. Aluminum is often selected for scenarios where high heat transfer (eg cookware, heat syncs, etc) which is exactly the opposite that you want bridging through an insulation layer.
Your literally putting wood (plywood) on top of the XSP… why no concern there?
All structural components in the build are aluminum. The wood in the van is not structural. My aluminum joists have a generous dollop of adhesive on both sides of contact to the chassis floor and the subfloor plywood. I do not worry about thermal bridging. What heat is transferred, is absorbed in an inconsequential manner by the plywood. I do not worry about compression, I do not worry about hydrophobic failure. The system I employ is specifically designed to allow for passive airflow throughout. Regardless of rated PSI of XPS as a structural member, the constant vibration and banging would eventually throw everything out of square and plumb.
I love you! But my god you make the easiest installs so unnecessarily complicated. instead of using one 3/4- 1&1/8 inch thick plywood sheet with dominoes use 2 sheets of 1/2 inch plywood. stager the seams so you have 2 foot overlaps and glue the 2 sheets of 1/2 inch sheets together (plus screws) to create a 1 inch thick solid substrate when finished
Well, that's twice the material. Twice the work. Since the sheets are staggered, you need to do two sets of CAD drawings. And run the CNC twice as much. A sheet of 1/2" is $50. A sheet of 3/4" is $65. And can you guarantee the sandwich floor will stay plumb? I don't think the dominoes were that complicated. We did the whole project on two vans in less than a 6 minute video! 🙃