No thats turbo smoke from being new! You have to let them idle for 30 min and the smoke goes away forever. I’ve installed 3 sets of twins on n54 motors and it’s always the same. Even on single
This was a genuine first start up, so the first time the turbos got any heat, im guessing the smoke relating to the revs was from it getting parts of the turbos hot that didnt get hot just idling.... im guessing tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube The smoke looks like it's coming from the area of turbo exhaust housings, so my guess would also be that revving it is just raising their temperature and flashing off more of the oil coating. I'd inspect it though just to be sure oil isn't slowly leaking onto an exhaust housing from somewhere.
Watching this video was nerve wrecking, having lived through the whole build process. I'm really happy it went well. My heart rate did shoot up every time more smoke came out of the engine bay. Smoke seems like it can only be an exhaust leak. But as you know I am no mechanic at all. Best of luck with the first drive, tuning, etc. Can't wait. With so many hiccups, you deserve smooth sailing from here on. And yeah this was more intense than any horror movie, jeez! -the looking under car -the feeling out under the car -the smoke -the reving.
haha you and me both. The reality of DIYing something for the first time. Checked it again this morning, doesn't appear to be any oil dripping down from anywhere, so with a bit of luck we are looking sweet.
Getting excited for the first drive!! It does sound a bit like lifter tick. Try and hold the revs at around 3000 rpm for around 2-3 minutes (in neutral, not moving). This is the BMW procedure for refilling the lifters :)
The smoke is normal on a new setup, what doesn't appear normal is the smoke blowing when reving the engine. Looks like an exhaust leak or an outlet pipe leak. I'm fighting with boost leaks on my new setup, what a pita. The amount of work involved in fixing and testing is getting old fast. Get a smoke evap test kit. Pay attention to to the bottom end ticking or knocking it could be signs of a failing rod bearing, now that the car is running without rattles you may hear other issues. Hard to tell without being there, use a screwdriver or stethoscope to listen and narrow down the noise your hearing.
I came here to say the same thing. The smoke on accel/decel is not supposed to be present. This comes from the pcv system. It has two modes, one for boost and one for vacuum, the pcv will take a different route depending which condition the engine is running under. When revving it like that it is transitioning from one to the other and back so anything hosed incorrectly will show up here. I would check the clamp on the flapper valve to the pre-turbo hose and make sure it’s tightened.
Dont worry about the ticking!! I have an N52, its just valve tick. Hold the car at 4000 rpm for about 2 or 3 mins and itll get rid of it. The lifters just get sticky, my car does it all the time after its been sitting
I might try that. Although i think this car has always had a similar tick, i remember stopping a few times in car parks when i have had the window down thinking, what is that noise....
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yesss. N52B25s like to eat oil too so you can imagine i shat myself when my engine started ticking after a day or two of low oil warning. Or just take it on the motorway and keep in maybe 4th to keep the revs up
I've now watched this series three times (I find it enjoyable when they're all in a row) but it's triggered Lift Jealousy today. GRRRRR! But I'm glad you have one as well. LOL. But wow I need to do something other than jack stands.
Congrats! Great job reassembling. Hopefully that oil burns off, funny how it blows up when you rev it. The inlets, with dp’s definitely adds that hollow sucking sound, best upgrade other than dp’s IMO. Really add to the top end. Looking forward to the first drive.
I wouldn’t be concerned with the ticking noise you mentioned. Didn’t hear anything abnormal from any other N54 I’ve been around. My 2 concerns first is the excess smoke coming from the turbo at higher revs. The hybrids come soaked in oil and will burn off but the excess smoking while revving the engine is not normal. Possible a loose inlet or outlet hose. Second would be the coolant hose, fix that before going on a drive. I’ve owned 2 N54’s first one was a single turbo swap current one I installed Pure turbos. Best of luck and cheers to great vids and TH-cam channel!
Sounds just like my stock low mileage N54 at idle (as far as the ticking noises etc). Turbos are definitely moving more air when you rev it, sounds awesome.
Zero To 60 really pumped to see you got your mail. Also happy to see you’ve finally got things buttoned up and had the car turned over w/ a few heat cycles. I believe it’s also safe to say that you’re fine you guys have a long time subscriber I will be watching much more.
I know this is an old video but I thought I'd add my input on your coolant pipe leak, it'll most likely be due to when you were raising and lowering the engine during the install process (assuming you left it connected)
gotta get onto that radiator hose before anything mate, I know they have engine shutdown on overheat but its not worth the risk. I dont wanna see part 8 how to take the head off 😆 Bearing wholesalers have a huge range of O rings 👍
The N54 sounds like a diesel in my opinion lots of ticking noises coming from under the hood that is normal no worries there check the exhaust flanges and check the silicone boot on the rear turbo they can sometimes melt
The injectors on N54s are horrendously loud... But when mine was ticking in a similar way to yours, it was the alternator pulley ticking. Oil had leaked from the cam cover and contaminated the bearings in the alternator tensioner. Changed the gasket and the pulley and it went away. Yours sounds like injector/lifter noise though...
You should really flush the coolant and run genuine BMW coolant. The non genuine coolant can cause the plastic parts to deteriatiate quicker. Also that doesn't look right with the increased smoke when you rev the car. Most likely a leak of some sort maybe coolant or oil hitting the turbo manifold? So it wouldnt be residual oil or coolant burning off as the smoke increased when revved.
I put the smoke down to parts of the manifold and turbo getting hot as the revs increased and exhaust gas flowed to different parts. They are big heat sinks until they are fully warm and at idle I bet the back part of the turbine housings weren’t that hot. Will definitely be monitoring it tomorrow. I’ll also give everything another close check while it’s in the hoist before starting it again. If there were any leaks while we ran it for that 15 mins I’m sure it will have time to run down in to a visible spot by the morning. Will also try and pencil in a coolant flush once we have everything running properly. I assume it’s some sort of mineral oil or something the turbo manufacturers coat them in, as it doesn’t really smell. Not like when this car used to leak engine oil that’s for sure.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I remember when I first started my car after putting a low mount single turbo in my 135i there was so much smoke it filled the whole garage but that was just residual oil etc burning up. Whatever it is I'm sure you will get it sorted just part of the journey. Great job so far!
Mine smoked like that for about 3 hours. It goes away eventually. The turbos/manifolds are saturated with oil from the start. Prevents rusting and corrosion on the long boat ride. ;)
@@ZeroTo60Tube I wouldn't be too concerned about using genuine BMW coolant, just get something that meets the BMW N 600 69.0 specification (Nulon blue is fine). I've never understood the parroting of the "always use genuine fluids" line, like all car manufacturers BMW doesn't make the fluids and the company that does can vary depending on what country you're in. That's why they have an official specification after all, to ensure that it meets their requirements regardless of who is making it.
20W-50 (high zinc) OIL IS A MUST, with these turbos. I run the exact same turbos on the same car only LHD. I have done the research. These are supposedly "copies" of the Vargas Stg 2 turbos. I am pretty sure they ARE the VTT turbos. They were originally outsourced to China and sold as VTT exclusives. We all know how China does business. The high zinc oil is CRITICAL. The recommended oil is Valvoline VR1 20W-50. (Non Synthetic)
Thats interesting, i was suspecting they were the VTT copies. I get the zinc content, but curious why the thicker oil. Is it to do with reducing the chance of oil getting past the oil seals in the turbos?
Thats EXACTLY what it is. The tolerances are not as precise as an RB or Pure. The thicker oil takes up some of the slop. I have had good results with mine. 4k miles so far. Been installed for 7 months. No leaks. No burning oil. 23-24 psi. Holds boost to red-line. JB4 map 7 (MHD backend Race E85). I also run the Spool Helix hpfp overdrive with a single Walbro 450. No fueling issues. No custom maps. 550i clutch going in next. It slips in 4th on high boost. 3rd spins the tires at 60 mph.
Ticking noise is completely normal and it's from the direct injectors. Drive the car without the cowl filter and you'll be able to hear the injectors shut off and turn on.
Hey I got a custom tune with rfp tuning with those turbos. Make sure you tell him you do not want burbles or else these turbos will start smoking! Happened to me don’t want that to happen to you!
That really goes for any burble tune on any platform. The bigger the burble the more explosive pressure going through the turbine housing that the turbos were not designed for. Even a full rally car which is designed to live on anti lag as soon as the driver stops accelerating will chew the turbos. With the RFP tune I got I left the MHD burbles on low, which bypassed his burble.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah ive had the turbos for two week's All im waiting on is the inlets and the turbo installation kit from FCP Euro... Then the install 😬 hey euro day at lakeside raceway is in December now see you there for a roll race on the stright 👍
You wouldn't believe how many times i said, i wish this was a B58. I've watched a few turbos installs on the B58s (mainly Supras) and they do it in like and hour..
Hello again, i am trying to find a video from your channel when you installed mhd and jb4 into your e90 and what app you are using on your phone. Everytime i type “zero to 60 mhd or jb4”, it gives me videos not on your channel. Thanks
Hi Benny, We never did a video on installing those. But we did a video on how to check if your car has them. It came from buying this e92 and the previous owner not know it had a JB4, so obviously i didn't know till got the car home and started playing with it. This is the vid th-cam.com/video/Y9T-swtag9s/w-d-xo.html&t
I got a question since you are the expert. All in a sudden my F10 535i the steering wheel feel wobbling. Used to be tight and accurate when on sport or sport plus mode. Now I feel the car little wobbling go straight on high speed, also when going high speed on a curve, the car is not stable. Would that be the active steering problem? I don't have any error codes on screen but just something don't feel right.
Far from an expert here! But thats sounds more like a bush or ball joint problem in the steering. Would be worth getting it in to a shop to check everything underneath.
I think i am going to need some upgraded mounts. How long have you had the Turner ones? Also do you know of any relocated inlets that are available for the RHD models? I haven't been able to find any.
Zero To 60 I haven’t been able to either. Most ppl do custom as seen on 1addicts but they show it’s also capable of being fitted on 3 series rhd. I had no idea RHD inlets would be so hard to find. They’ve been on the car for half a year and 2000 miles. After I went MHD stage 2 I found the car to lose belts because of the amount of play in motor mounts. The vehicles parts have been slowly swapped out and it was a 146000 mile car when I bought it. Literally every broke in the car. From intercooler, to radiator, all fuel pumps, melted bushings, no turbo pressure and a messed up clutch and clutch pedal system. It was the way I wanted the car. I didn’t want it to run without all mods 😂
The more I think about it it’s always had a bit of a tick at times. But it was particularly noticeable in the shed lifted off the ground. Fingers crossed it’s normal for this one.....
@@ZeroTo60Tube BMW recommends this procedure themselves. Maybe it will go away...Fingers crossed. Dad's 335is had a little tick too, revved it for a bit and the tick was gone. Also this will happen if the car sits for a long time. My 535xi never had a tick probably because I drive it everyday.
Ticking noise seems common, mine pretty much goes minimal once oil is warned up. As long as it goes away once revved and your using a good oil, I wouldn't worry about it much. Probably lifter tick. Injector tick is normal though. Guys you'll need a custom tune to get the best out of it, most likely gonna Overboost with Inlets. You should be able to see it on a Datalog though. Fantastic work as usual 👌
I really hope it's not that. Definitely couldn't smell any fumes at the front. When i had the issues with the downpipes sealing last year you could smell fumes at the front of the car straight away.
The turbos were covered in oil, so it appears as other parts of the turbos and exhaust got hot the oil burnt off. Couldn’t smell any fumes so it was just oil burning off. Or possible some spilt coolant from yesterday.
The engine noise sounded good but yeah I would be more concerned with that smoke blowing up like that when revving. Might be a small exhaust leak. Make sure to check torque on those nuts/studs mounting the turbos onto the block. Doubt it’s at the downpipes
@@ZeroTo60Tube I think he means away from the pulleys . With my inlets it was rubbing until I used a couple large zip ties and pulled away using the fan/ it's housing drilled a hole into the fans housing to pull it in the right I direction.
Priming is not a bad thing. However i have never seen anyone do it......... haha. Its a bit of a myth. The turbos will get oil pressure with in a few seconds. At idle they are hardly spinning. So they have a few seconds of no oil pressure while spinning very slowly. People probably do more damage spinning the turbos by hand before install.
@@ZeroTo60Tube omg you replied! Didn’t expect a reply on such an old video. You don’t know how much I love your channel. You inspired me to get a 335i, im in the UK which is RHD too and your videos have helped me so so much. I’m in the process of putting 17Ts in now haha, I’m sure I can speak for all of us when I say WE WANT MORE N54 CONTENT!! 🙏❤️
Zero To 60 I have in all my cars for years no issues what’s so ever. No affiliation with Evans waterless, I’m not a sales person either.. I am a bmw enthusiast, I have an e39 M5 an e30m3 e39540 an e70x5 and Evans saves the plastic connections and expansion tank in bmw cooling system. My e39540 is notorious for blowing up the expansion tank, valley pan gasket.. Evans resolves that issue.
I've wanted a stethoscope for a while, its probably a good reason to bite the bullet and buy one. I would feel better knowing what that tick is, even if not an actual issue.
@@ZeroTo60Tube my worry is.... last year a my buddy had a similar sounding noise and it was a spun bearing sad to say, but we did a backyard mechanic repair swapped out the bad bearing and he was back to drag strip running 10s... its still running strong up to today...
You can vent the lifters, hold revs on 3000rpm for five minutes when engine is warm. Then the noise should be gone.. This is a official BMW procedure.
Might want to look into that smoke a bit more? It increasing with revs would indicate something is leaking, oil feed, manifold gaskets or something.
Definitely ^^
No thats turbo smoke from being new! You have to let them idle for 30 min and the smoke goes away forever. I’ve installed 3 sets of twins on n54 motors and it’s always the same. Even on single
@@erickromero010 Smoke is normal, but not more smoke when you rev it. We shall see.
This was a genuine first start up, so the first time the turbos got any heat, im guessing the smoke relating to the revs was from it getting parts of the turbos hot that didnt get hot just idling.... im guessing tho.
@@ZeroTo60Tube The smoke looks like it's coming from the area of turbo exhaust housings, so my guess would also be that revving it is just raising their temperature and flashing off more of the oil coating. I'd inspect it though just to be sure oil isn't slowly leaking onto an exhaust housing from somewhere.
Watching this video was nerve wrecking, having lived through the whole build process.
I'm really happy it went well. My heart rate did shoot up every time more smoke came out of the engine bay.
Smoke seems like it can only be an exhaust leak. But as you know I am no mechanic at all.
Best of luck with the first drive, tuning, etc. Can't wait. With so many hiccups, you deserve smooth sailing from here on.
And yeah this was more intense than any horror movie, jeez!
-the looking under car
-the feeling out under the car
-the smoke
-the reving.
haha you and me both. The reality of DIYing something for the first time. Checked it again this morning, doesn't appear to be any oil dripping down from anywhere, so with a bit of luck we are looking sweet.
Getting excited for the first drive!! It does sound a bit like lifter tick. Try and hold the revs at around 3000 rpm for around 2-3 minutes (in neutral, not moving). This is the BMW procedure for refilling the lifters :)
Good comment about bmw bulletin. I have ticky lifter if I leave the car for over 2 weeks.
The smoke is normal on a new setup, what doesn't appear normal is the smoke blowing when reving the engine. Looks like an exhaust leak or an outlet pipe leak. I'm fighting with boost leaks on my new setup, what a pita. The amount of work involved in fixing and testing is getting old fast. Get a smoke evap test kit.
Pay attention to to the bottom end ticking or knocking it could be signs of a failing rod bearing, now that the car is running without rattles you may hear other issues. Hard to tell without being there, use a screwdriver or stethoscope to listen and narrow down the noise your hearing.
Agreed, the smoke looks like it blows out quite hard. Defo look at that and do the oil change .
Possibly av band clamp.
The ticking just sounded like injectors Tick to me
I came here to say the same thing. The smoke on accel/decel is not supposed to be present. This comes from the pcv system. It has two modes, one for boost and one for vacuum, the pcv will take a different route depending which condition the engine is running under. When revving it like that it is transitioning from one to the other and back so anything hosed incorrectly will show up here. I would check the clamp on the flapper valve to the pre-turbo hose and make sure it’s tightened.
"This is a particularly noisy engine" - every N54
Lol, ain’t that the truth.
Every day sounds
Mostly from the Injectors .
Lifter tick on N54's is pretty normal, doesn't sound unhealthy to me 👍
I would say it loud injectors, mine click like that.
@@anthophila360 true also, almost all DI engines and newer engines with plastic manifolds are a bit more "cattery" sounding at idle.
So excited to see the first drive!!! Awesome work as always.
Dont worry about the ticking!! I have an N52, its just valve tick. Hold the car at 4000 rpm for about 2 or 3 mins and itll get rid of it. The lifters just get sticky, my car does it all the time after its been sitting
I might try that. Although i think this car has always had a similar tick, i remember stopping a few times in car parks when i have had the window down thinking, what is that noise....
@@ZeroTo60Tube Yesss. N52B25s like to eat oil too so you can imagine i shat myself when my engine started ticking after a day or two of low oil warning.
Or just take it on the motorway and keep in maybe 4th to keep the revs up
Did you have to adjust the turbos to line up the outlets? My stock set doesn't seem to line up at all
I've now watched this series three times (I find it enjoyable when they're all in a row) but it's triggered Lift Jealousy today. GRRRRR! But I'm glad you have one as well. LOL. But wow I need to do something other than jack stands.
Congrats! Great job reassembling. Hopefully that oil burns off, funny how it blows up when you rev it. The inlets, with dp’s definitely adds that hollow sucking sound, best upgrade other than dp’s IMO. Really add to the top end. Looking forward to the first drive.
Can't wait to see how much power this puppy makes
i got the same ticking noise and i think its coming from the injectors
The injectors are usually noisy
Awesome job guys!!!
Thanks man, its a bit of a large task, but to be fair taking my times it's not been too bad. Apart from the knuckle damage.
I've had the same turbos installed about a month ago but stock intakes, the induction noise is significantly louder and it's a unique sound
PS getting 17psi at 2600rpm is nice (MHD stage 1 +)
Wow, so it's the turbos making the different noise. It sounded so much more throaty. Looking forward to having them all dialed in.
I wouldn’t be concerned with the ticking noise you mentioned. Didn’t hear anything abnormal from any other N54 I’ve been around. My 2 concerns first is the excess smoke coming from the turbo at higher revs. The hybrids come soaked in oil and will burn off but the excess smoking while revving the engine is not normal. Possible a loose inlet or outlet hose. Second would be the coolant hose, fix that before going on a drive. I’ve owned 2 N54’s first one was a single turbo swap current one I installed Pure turbos. Best of luck and cheers to great vids and TH-cam channel!
Sounds just like my stock low mileage N54 at idle (as far as the ticking noises etc). Turbos are definitely moving more air when you rev it, sounds awesome.
I wish i had some better clips of it running before the turbos. The sound difference was not something i was expecting.
Don't forget to put the cover back on your remote +12 V terminal😀 Hate to zap the ECU or start a fire.
The light knocking sounds like mine did before I changed my aux tensioners. One of the bearings was on its way out so gave a rattle sound.
This new turbo sounds nice!!!🔥🔥🔥
Well done guys! Congrats
Thanks man! Its been a mission.
I have lifter tick on mine in colder weather but here in AZ it goes away in the warmer weather.
Awesome! I didn’t get the notification that you posted. I’m here now! 🤘🏽
✊ yeeoowwww!
Zero To 60 really pumped to see you got your mail. Also happy to see you’ve finally got things buttoned up and had the car turned over w/ a few heat cycles. I believe it’s also safe to say that you’re fine you guys have a long time subscriber I will be watching much more.
The ticking can’t be completely erased but you can claim it down by using a heavier weight oil, I would consider 5w-40 fully synthetic
I know this is an old video but I thought I'd add my input on your coolant pipe leak, it'll most likely be due to when you were raising and lowering the engine during the install process (assuming you left it connected)
gotta get onto that radiator hose before anything mate, I know they have engine shutdown on overheat but its not worth the risk.
I dont wanna see part 8 how to take the head off 😆
Bearing wholesalers have a huge range of O rings 👍
The N54 sounds like a diesel in my opinion lots of ticking noises coming from under the hood that is normal no worries there check the exhaust flanges and check the silicone boot on the rear turbo they can sometimes melt
All of are N54 have some ticking it’s coming form the injectors mine sounds same way
The injectors on N54s are horrendously loud... But when mine was ticking in a similar way to yours, it was the alternator pulley ticking. Oil had leaked from the cam cover and contaminated the bearings in the alternator tensioner. Changed the gasket and the pulley and it went away. Yours sounds like injector/lifter noise though...
You should really flush the coolant and run genuine BMW coolant. The non genuine coolant can cause the plastic parts to deteriatiate quicker.
Also that doesn't look right with the increased smoke when you rev the car. Most likely a leak of some sort maybe coolant or oil hitting the turbo manifold? So it wouldnt be residual oil or coolant burning off as the smoke increased when revved.
I put the smoke down to parts of the manifold and turbo getting hot as the revs increased and exhaust gas flowed to different parts. They are big heat sinks until they are fully warm and at idle I bet the back part of the turbine housings weren’t that hot. Will definitely be monitoring it tomorrow. I’ll also give everything another close check while it’s in the hoist before starting it again. If there were any leaks while we ran it for that 15 mins I’m sure it will have time to run down in to a visible spot by the morning.
Will also try and pencil in a coolant flush once we have everything running properly.
I assume it’s some sort of mineral oil or something the turbo manufacturers coat them in, as it doesn’t really smell. Not like when this car used to leak engine oil that’s for sure.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I remember when I first started my car after putting a low mount single turbo in my 135i there was so much smoke it filled the whole garage but that was just residual oil etc burning up.
Whatever it is I'm sure you will get it sorted just part of the journey. Great job so far!
Mine smoked like that for about 3 hours. It goes away eventually. The turbos/manifolds are saturated with oil from the start. Prevents rusting and corrosion on the long boat ride. ;)
@@ZeroTo60Tube I wouldn't be too concerned about using genuine BMW coolant, just get something that meets the BMW N 600 69.0 specification (Nulon blue is fine). I've never understood the parroting of the "always use genuine fluids" line, like all car manufacturers BMW doesn't make the fluids and the company that does can vary depending on what country you're in. That's why they have an official specification after all, to ensure that it meets their requirements regardless of who is making it.
20W-50 (high zinc) OIL IS A MUST, with these turbos. I run the exact same turbos on the same car only LHD. I have done the research. These are supposedly "copies" of the Vargas Stg 2 turbos. I am pretty sure they ARE the VTT turbos. They were originally outsourced to China and sold as VTT exclusives. We all know how China does business. The high zinc oil is CRITICAL. The recommended oil is Valvoline VR1 20W-50. (Non Synthetic)
Thats interesting, i was suspecting they were the VTT copies. I get the zinc content, but curious why the thicker oil. Is it to do with reducing the chance of oil getting past the oil seals in the turbos?
Thats EXACTLY what it is. The tolerances are not as precise as an RB or Pure. The thicker oil takes up some of the slop. I have had good results with mine. 4k miles so far. Been installed for 7 months. No leaks. No burning oil. 23-24 psi. Holds boost to red-line. JB4 map 7 (MHD backend Race E85). I also run the Spool Helix hpfp overdrive with a single Walbro 450. No fueling issues. No custom maps. 550i clutch going in next. It slips in 4th on high boost. 3rd spins the tires at 60 mph.
Ticking noise is completely normal and it's from the direct injectors. Drive the car without the cowl filter and you'll be able to hear the injectors shut off and turn on.
Did the smoking ever go away what did you do to reduce the smoking or did it just go away itself
Went away after about 10 mins.
Congratulations! Happy you got it all together. Hard to tell what the exhaust leak is from, hopefully it’s just down pipes that need to be seated
I have hybrids and jb4 also. How did you change your jb4 to let it know you have hybrids?
Jb4 needs a custom boost curve. But it’s the back end flash that’s most important. Different cam timing helps get the turbos on boost quicker.
Hey I got a custom tune with rfp tuning with those turbos. Make sure you tell him you do not want burbles or else these turbos will start smoking! Happened to me don’t want that to happen to you!
That really goes for any burble tune on any platform. The bigger the burble the more explosive pressure going through the turbine housing that the turbos were not designed for. Even a full rally car which is designed to live on anti lag as soon as the driver stops accelerating will chew the turbos.
With the RFP tune I got I left the MHD burbles on low, which bypassed his burble.
I was wondering did you use mhd and jb4 to tune your car at the end? and did you also get the 3.5 bar sensor?
Awesome starting mine next week if my parts turn up..
I wish you luck on the parts delivery. It’s a bit of a joke at the moment.
@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah ive had the turbos for two week's All im waiting on is the inlets and the turbo installation kit from FCP Euro... Then the install 😬 hey euro day at lakeside raceway is in December now see you there for a roll race on the stright 👍
Brilliant cant wait for first drive.😅👍
This video reminds we of why I went N55 and why the B58 will be next because you can remove the turbo from the top, lol.
You wouldn't believe how many times i said, i wish this was a B58. I've watched a few turbos installs on the B58s (mainly Supras) and they do it in like and hour..
Hello again, i am trying to find a video from your channel when you installed mhd and jb4 into your e90 and what app you are using on your phone. Everytime i type “zero to 60 mhd or jb4”, it gives me videos not on your channel. Thanks
Hi Benny, We never did a video on installing those. But we did a video on how to check if your car has them. It came from buying this e92 and the previous owner not know it had a JB4, so obviously i didn't know till got the car home and started playing with it. This is the vid th-cam.com/video/Y9T-swtag9s/w-d-xo.html&t
I got a question since you are the expert. All in a sudden my F10 535i the steering wheel feel wobbling. Used to be tight and accurate when on sport or sport plus mode. Now I feel the car little wobbling go straight on high speed, also when going high speed on a curve, the car is not stable. Would that be the active steering problem?
I don't have any error codes on screen but just something don't feel right.
Far from an expert here! But thats sounds more like a bush or ball joint problem in the steering. Would be worth getting it in to a shop to check everything underneath.
Could be control arms
That noise is the high pressure fuel pump, it’s a normal noise at idle.
Did you do motor mounts? I have turner race and they don’t really vibrate
You should do relocated inlets for a power gain review
I think i am going to need some upgraded mounts. How long have you had the Turner ones? Also do you know of any relocated inlets that are available for the RHD models? I haven't been able to find any.
Zero To 60 I haven’t been able to either. Most ppl do custom as seen on 1addicts but they show it’s also capable of being fitted on 3 series rhd. I had no idea RHD inlets would be so hard to find.
They’ve been on the car for half a year and 2000 miles.
After I went MHD stage 2 I found the car to lose belts because of the amount of play in motor mounts.
The vehicles parts have been slowly swapped out and it was a 146000 mile car when I bought it.
Literally every broke in the car. From intercooler, to radiator, all fuel pumps, melted bushings, no turbo pressure and a messed up clutch and clutch pedal system.
It was the way I wanted the car. I didn’t want it to run without all mods 😂
Try to rev for 2-3 minutes steady 2.5k rpm.
Top end ticking is especially annoying on N52,
not so much on N54 but still happens from time to time.
The more I think about it it’s always had a bit of a tick at times. But it was particularly noticeable in the shed lifted off the ground. Fingers crossed it’s normal for this one.....
@@ZeroTo60Tube BMW recommends this procedure themselves. Maybe it will go away...Fingers crossed.
Dad's 335is had a little tick too, revved it for a bit and the tick was gone.
Also this will happen if the car sits for a long time.
My 535xi never had a tick probably because I drive it everyday.
Ticking noise seems common, mine pretty much goes minimal once oil is warned up. As long as it goes away once revved and your using a good oil, I wouldn't worry about it much. Probably lifter tick. Injector tick is normal though.
Guys you'll need a custom tune to get the best out of it, most likely gonna Overboost with Inlets. You should be able to see it on a Datalog though.
Fantastic work as usual 👌
Agreed. Mine has a tic as well while warming up. Always has.
Looks to me like an exhaust leak at the headers between the block. What do you guys think?
I really hope it's not that. Definitely couldn't smell any fumes at the front. When i had the issues with the downpipes sealing last year you could smell fumes at the front of the car straight away.
Congrats! Finally done.
So what was that smoke from turbo side? It was blowing harder as you revved...
The turbos were covered in oil, so it appears as other parts of the turbos and exhaust got hot the oil burnt off. Couldn’t smell any fumes so it was just oil burning off. Or possible some spilt coolant from yesterday.
@@ZeroTo60Tube all good. Enjoy the rattle free drives. How good is that!
The engine noise sounded good but yeah I would be more concerned with that smoke blowing up like that when revving. Might be a small exhaust leak. Make sure to check torque on those nuts/studs mounting the turbos onto the block. Doubt it’s at the downpipes
I used to have exhaust leak and I could smell mostly only on first few seconds after cold start, so a bit hard to judge by smell ...
Looks like an exhaust leak on one of the turbos as you rev it there.
Sounds good
The induction noise is definitely different. Looking forward to hearing it under load.
Awesome!
The ticking is normal.
I hope so, but it still bugs me.
Just remember the thermostat doesn’t crack until 97 C
"The absence of wastegate rattle... 🥰", "What's that ticking noise? 😱" gg guys! Enjoy the first trip!
Did you check your belt tensioner?
The drive belt tensioner is about 6-7 months old.
Make sure you zippy tie the new inlets away from the radiator fan 😄
Speaking from experience? haha
@@ZeroTo60Tube I think he means away from the pulleys . With my inlets it was rubbing until I used a couple large zip ties and pulled away using the fan/ it's housing drilled a hole into the fans housing to pull it in the right I direction.
ashley s haha you are correct
Weren’t you supposed to prime the turbos. Ik bit late to say this 😂
Priming is not a bad thing. However i have never seen anyone do it......... haha. Its a bit of a myth. The turbos will get oil pressure with in a few seconds. At idle they are hardly spinning. So they have a few seconds of no oil pressure while spinning very slowly. People probably do more damage spinning the turbos by hand before install.
@@ZeroTo60Tube omg you replied! Didn’t expect a reply on such an old video. You don’t know how much I love your channel. You inspired me to get a 335i, im in the UK which is RHD too and your videos have helped me so so much. I’m in the process of putting 17Ts in now haha, I’m sure I can speak for all of us when I say WE WANT MORE N54 CONTENT!! 🙏❤️
@@arthur_chung hahah, thanks man. Yes i do try and answer all comments. Its a challenge sometimes.
Evans waterless coolant is best. No boiling, no water, no pressure, no electrolysis, no corrosion and no scouring.
Have you done much research on evans? Coming from the bike racing world. Im not made keen on the Evans marketing hype.
Zero To 60 I have in all my cars for years no issues what’s so ever. No affiliation with Evans waterless, I’m not a sales person either.. I am a bmw enthusiast, I have an e39 M5 an e30m3 e39540 an e70x5 and Evans saves the plastic connections and expansion tank in bmw cooling system. My e39540 is notorious for blowing up the expansion tank, valley pan gasket.. Evans resolves that issue.
Might be time for timing chain service.... 🤔🤔🤔.... get a mechanic stethoscope, to see if you can pin point the noise...
I've wanted a stethoscope for a while, its probably a good reason to bite the bullet and buy one. I would feel better knowing what that tick is, even if not an actual issue.
@@ZeroTo60Tube my worry is.... last year a my buddy had a similar sounding noise and it was a spun bearing sad to say, but we did a backyard mechanic repair swapped out the bad bearing and he was back to drag strip running 10s... its still running strong up to today...
that tick is normal dont worry
Now you say that, but i am still worried.
Part 9........fucking send it
Sounds totally normal injectors are noisy
Oil filter the sound your hearing is coming from a cheap oil filter hold your hand on the oil filter housing
I thought it was just the plastic ended filters that made that noise? My filter looks identical to the genuine one.
You should be using a OEM BMW or OE MANN filter! Same thing BMW uses MANN filters but with the BMW stamp on it.
Sounds like the timing chain is a little loss
Do yuh think it would be worth doing the chain tensioner?
@@ZeroTo60Tube depends on how many kid's are on the clock
@@ZeroTo60Tube sounds fine to me.
just kidding, heard what youre talking about. Sounds more like lifter tick though
LIKE NUMBER 54😁