Great video! I have 343,000 miles on my 2002 TL-S with the original engine and transmission. Here's my take on these issues: - I'm on the original ball joints - My main fuel pump relay went out. The simple solution to cracked solder joints is to resolder all of them and it will perform like new again. No need to purchase new parts or perform unnecessary conversions. - Most transmission problems derive from not changing the ATF frequently enough. The manual states under "normal" driving conditions that the fluid can last 120,000 miles which is utter BS. There's also no listed interval for the serviceable ATF filter. A common problem with infrequent servicing of the ATF includes clogged solenoid screen filters, which trigger the common CEL code P0740, formerly known as the "Code of Death." The solution is to remove the solenoids and clean the filters out. I recommend doing a single ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles and replacing the ATF filter every 30,000 miles. Do this and your transmission should have no problems. Additionally, the transmission pressure switches may need replacing over time and it's easy to do. - I had 1 HID ballast go out after 15 years and the other is still original. - No oil leaks, and no oil burning for that matter - The only two things that have rusted out on my car are the brake and fuel lines, and the gas tank, each of which would be very costly to replace and cause many people to junk the vehicle. - No IACV issues here - I had 2 evap leaks on my car, one from the charcoal canister and shut-off valve which caused P1457 and was not costly to replace. I also got rust on top of the fuel tank which caused P1456. - No crank sensor problems - My high-pressure PS Line leaked and needed replacing. The PS Inlet O-ring was causing air to get into the system and make PS noise, simple solution was to replace the O-ring - Additionally, I'll add that the sway bar end links are notorious for failing. They have since upgraded the rear end links, but the fronts are still the same part number. - Lastly, I'll add the front and side engine mounts will start to go bad after about 150k miles. They're made of softer material to absorb vibrations and that causes them to wear out faster. You can continue driving your vehicle, but obviously, it's not advised as there will be a lot of engine clunking and movement upon acceleration.
Just replaced the P/S pump last Saturday, and the HP line yesterday (2000 TL); the factory strength from the new pump burdened the HP line to rupture, right at the crimp point as you stated. $395 and $380 for the repairs. Odometer @ 339,250mi. Thanks for the video!
Let’s not forget about the leaking trunks on both of them. The Factory seam seal in the corners of the trunk near the rear windshield tends to go bad and crack and over time you develop a trunk leak. Something I am currently dealing with in my 2003 CLS. My temporary solution was to buy a rare rear rubber trunk mat from Acura!
Excellent video. I'm going to check the ball joints asap as there is a bit of clunking noise going over rough roads and I have been chasing the issue of the car not starting after a hard drive on a hot day. So I'll be looking at the main fuel relay as well.
Cool vid thanks man. on my second CL... 2001 type S... love the car bought with 100k on 160 now. Cosmetically paint clear coat stripping, sun roof needing a lil elbow grease to close correctly, driver side window lift assembly replaced. Engine- Timing done at 130. Just did the powersteering O ring gaskets as it was whinnying super loud and leaking. I also replaced the radiator at maybe 120k. Currently experiencing some IAC valve symptoms, I attempted to clean it with Throttlebody cleaner and it helped a lot but the valve still seems to be a little sticky with a rough idle at stops especially running the ac at times. I'm considering an aftermarket one at $27 compared to 200 plus... plan on doing the front suspension in the near future and some paint then just run her into the sunset.
I bought a 99 Tl with 144k back in 2016 for $1600 and the only 2 problems it had was the transmission shifting really hard in 2nd gear and paint oxidation on the roof and trunk other than that it was solid
The 4 speed only in the 99 didn't have the same issues as the 5 speed auto. Why they came out with the jetpack kit that took fluid and routed it into the filler hole using a special adapter that took fluid from the external trans filter.
I have a 2001 TL which I bought used with only 64K miles on it. You must be an expert on this model car to know of all these issues. Just in the last few weeks got the oil pump replaced due to oil leak/burning smell. The other day it was surging up and down, so removed the IACV and cleaned it, although it may have been related to the coolant change associated with oil pump replacement. Now the oil pump has a whine and wetness around the reservoir again probably from the recent repair. I''ll have to wash under the hood to get rid of any residual oil etc. Other than that car still runs good. Its a bigger car than the newer versions of the TL. The new donuts are smaller than the older ones as is the TL. I also had to fix some rot/rust around the wheel well.. that's common for all cars I think. I enjoy driving a car that I can fix and maintain rather than blindly go for a newer model.
My 2003 TL-S transmission failed at about 104K. I rebuilt it and not driving much anymore. I put on another 34K on it, and it still runs smoothly. No major issues except leaky rack and pinion that I had to replace. Except for the transmission issue, it is great car.
Make sure you clean the trans solenoid screens. one is a challenge to get to it controls the lockup for the torque converter. tcc solenoid. you also have the dual linear unit underneath the battery tray. That has some tubes you pull out and they have these very tiny screens.they like to get clogged up.the last one is the actual shift solenoid.it only has one screen. Many shift issues can be helped if they are clean. I notice my 1-2 shift improved after cleaning
One more common failure point is fuel tank leaks if you live above the salt belt. The fuel tanks are made of metal and there's a corner on the fuel tank where all the salt water can puddle up and eat away at the protective coating and rust through. Had to replace the fuel tank in my TL after 20 years which requires dropping the rear subframe and apparently it's a common issue for long term owners with a good amount of mileage. Quite an expensive job sadly.
@@letsfixit101 it’s so stupid they still made them out of metal when everyone else transitioned to plastic tanks. I coated the hell out of mine with primer and acrylic paint.
@@Darksyne I will be posting videos on mine once everything is done! I love how mine came out! Not may people get to have painted tanks so should be cool
Had a 2003 cl type-s 6 speed years ago. Never had a single issue with it. Only sold it at the time because I was a new father and it sucked getting one, let alone 2 kids buckled in the back. I'm far beyond loving any fwd car but man did I love that car in that spec.
On the crank sensors, specific to the CL Type-S 6-speeds: there are 2 crank sensors, one that's shared with the standard automatic cars (Crank sensor 'A'), and a second, unique one on the manual transmission bellhousing (Crank sensor 'B'). The B sensor is unobtanium in both new and aftermarket, and has the potential to cripple the rare manual cars if it fails. Some have suggested hacking up an RSX sensor to fit, but I can't speak to whether this works or not.
Good job keep it up ...need to work on presentation ...I talk the same way...hahahaha...but for reals I think it gives the hole video its own style....good job bro
My biggest gripe is in the interior - the door panels are poorly made and always separate where you grab the door to close it. Unless there's a solution out there that I'm not aware of, there's no fixing it. I'm lucky in that i've had zero mechanical issues so far and only an oil pan gasket leak on the 1of43. I just got home yesterday with the silver twin replacement, but so far so good!
@@acura2g The gorilla glue has to be the one for foam. There's a video about fixing it unfortunately I didn't save it. It involved removing the panel and clamping the piece together
I got mine on tein flex z coilovers got 2inches lowered in back and and 2.75 inches in front , my ball joint I swap them every 1 1/2 year since roads are messed up ain't letting it get to me ever 😂, second 02 tl type s and now some issues but not all
the VTEC solenoid leaking oil is an issue most Hondas have, all the Honda ive seen needed the gasket replaced, I also had to replace the gasket on all my accords, its not that hard to replace the gasket, also i recommend using OEM Honda gaskets, it will fit, sometimes the aaftermarket ones dont ffit
DRL light (daytime running light) intermittently comes on and daytime running light do not work, when using the full lights at night everything is fine, turns out the Day Time Running Light relay has poor solder connections, had to pop the rely out from underneath the dash directly under the steering column and re-solder all the connections, about a year later it happened again, now I just ignore the DRL light...sometimes I can tap it and it and the lights begin working again.
I must hav an Evaporator leak in my 2008 Tl Type S . My engine light has been on for over 3 years. The Acura dealership replaced the Evap purge part and the engine light came back on by the time I mad it home This was serviced . 2 years ago. I’ve taken it to Goodyear and the couldn’t fix it. So needless to say I just drive withh the engine light on.
Bought an 02 Acura tl and within the first 7k miles it blew a tranny on the highway and today sadly I have blown a head gasket. Sad to say after I bought this car from a 1 owner family that looked like they took care of it all it’s life and had service records for everything and dealership serviced.
I had a 2003 TL-S and went through the first transmission after 100k, first rebuild lasted less than 30k, second rebuild also lasted less than 30k. Cursed design. Thank god the lower ball joint detached and I got rid of it 😂
Great video! I have 343,000 miles on my 2002 TL-S with the original engine and transmission. Here's my take on these issues:
- I'm on the original ball joints
- My main fuel pump relay went out. The simple solution to cracked solder joints is to resolder all of them and it will perform like new again. No need to purchase new parts or perform unnecessary conversions.
- Most transmission problems derive from not changing the ATF frequently enough. The manual states under "normal" driving conditions that the fluid can last 120,000 miles which is utter BS. There's also no listed interval for the serviceable ATF filter. A common problem with infrequent servicing of the ATF includes clogged solenoid screen filters, which trigger the common CEL code P0740, formerly known as the "Code of Death." The solution is to remove the solenoids and clean the filters out. I recommend doing a single ATF drain-and-fill every 15,000 miles and replacing the ATF filter every 30,000 miles. Do this and your transmission should have no problems. Additionally, the transmission pressure switches may need replacing over time and it's easy to do.
- I had 1 HID ballast go out after 15 years and the other is still original.
- No oil leaks, and no oil burning for that matter
- The only two things that have rusted out on my car are the brake and fuel lines, and the gas tank, each of which would be very costly to replace and cause many people to junk the vehicle.
- No IACV issues here
- I had 2 evap leaks on my car, one from the charcoal canister and shut-off valve which caused P1457 and was not costly to replace. I also got rust on top of the fuel tank which caused P1456.
- No crank sensor problems
- My high-pressure PS Line leaked and needed replacing. The PS Inlet O-ring was causing air to get into the system and make PS noise, simple solution was to replace the O-ring
- Additionally, I'll add that the sway bar end links are notorious for failing. They have since upgraded the rear end links, but the fronts are still the same part number.
- Lastly, I'll add the front and side engine mounts will start to go bad after about 150k miles. They're made of softer material to absorb vibrations and that causes them to wear out faster. You can continue driving your vehicle, but obviously, it's not advised as there will be a lot of engine clunking and movement upon acceleration.
Just replaced the P/S pump last Saturday, and the HP line yesterday (2000 TL); the factory strength from the new pump burdened the HP line to rupture, right at the crimp point as you stated.
$395 and $380 for the repairs. Odometer @ 339,250mi.
Thanks for the video!
just about to replace my power steering pump tomorrow, how’s yours running still?
@@jerome2692 running just fine, 4 months later, Odometer at 344,000 now.
Let’s not forget about the leaking trunks on both of them. The Factory seam seal in the corners of the trunk near the rear windshield tends to go bad and crack and over time you develop a trunk leak. Something I am currently dealing with in my 2003 CLS. My temporary solution was to buy a rare rear rubber trunk mat from Acura!
Happening on my 03 TL
Shit thank you for that I thought I was going crazy! Glad to know 100% I was right! ( 01 CLS)
@@letsfixit101 you’re not going crazy. Luckily this is something the body shop can fix
@Dankz how a body shop I was just going to get new trunk rubbers
I had got jb weld and slapped it on the bottom of where it was leaking from and it has held up so far
Excellent video. I'm going to check the ball joints asap as there is a bit of clunking noise going over rough roads and I have been chasing the issue of the car not starting after a hard drive on a hot day. So I'll be looking at the main fuel relay as well.
Amazing video bro! Well done! And the comments to top it off are amazing
Very informative video. These are great tips to know when looking to buy. Excellent work, Ty!
Thanks Very informative! Keep the Flow of Information Coming.
This was a very informative post. As i am looking to purchase a used car
Cool vid thanks man. on my second CL... 2001 type S... love the car bought with 100k on 160 now. Cosmetically paint clear coat stripping, sun roof needing a lil elbow grease to close correctly, driver side window lift assembly replaced. Engine- Timing done at 130. Just did the powersteering O ring gaskets as it was whinnying super loud and leaking. I also replaced the radiator at maybe 120k. Currently experiencing some IAC valve symptoms, I attempted to clean it with Throttlebody cleaner and it helped a lot but the valve still seems to be a little sticky with a rough idle at stops especially running the ac at times. I'm considering an aftermarket one at $27 compared to 200 plus... plan on doing the front suspension in the near future and some paint then just run her into the sunset.
I bought a 99 Tl with 144k back in 2016 for $1600 and the only 2 problems it had was the transmission shifting really hard in 2nd gear and paint oxidation on the roof and trunk other than that it was solid
Is the trans still good ?
@@werdnaja5762 The car got totaled back in 2018 when a truck rear ended me the Insurance company gave me $4500 for it though haha
The 4 speed only in the 99 didn't have the same issues as the 5 speed auto. Why they came out with the jetpack kit that took fluid and routed it into the filler hole using a special adapter that took fluid from the external trans filter.
I've got the same trans problems on my 02 type S. Now I'm trying to decide with manual trans to swap in
Great video well, detailed appreciate it. Thank you.
Thank you!
Good work bro keep it up very useful info
I have a 2001 TL which I bought used with only 64K miles on it. You must be an expert on this model car to know of all these issues. Just in the last few weeks got the oil pump replaced due to oil leak/burning smell. The other day it was surging up and down, so removed the IACV and cleaned it, although it may have been related to the coolant change associated with oil pump replacement. Now the oil pump has a whine and wetness around the reservoir again probably from the recent repair. I''ll have to wash under the hood to get rid of any residual oil etc. Other than that car still runs good. Its a bigger car than the newer versions of the TL. The new donuts are smaller than the older ones as is the TL. I also had to fix some rot/rust around the wheel well.. that's common for all cars I think. I enjoy driving a car that I can fix and maintain rather than blindly go for a newer model.
My 2003 TL-S transmission failed at about 104K. I rebuilt it and not driving much anymore. I put on another 34K on it, and it still runs smoothly. No major issues except leaky rack and pinion that I had to replace. Except for the transmission issue, it is great car.
Make sure you clean the trans solenoid screens. one is a challenge to get to it controls the lockup for the torque converter. tcc solenoid. you also have the dual linear unit underneath the battery tray. That has some tubes you pull out and they have these very tiny screens.they like to get clogged up.the last one is the actual shift solenoid.it only has one screen. Many shift issues can be helped if they are clean. I notice my 1-2 shift improved after cleaning
One more common failure point is fuel tank leaks if you live above the salt belt. The fuel tanks are made of metal and there's a corner on the fuel tank where all the salt water can puddle up and eat away at the protective coating and rust through. Had to replace the fuel tank in my TL after 20 years which requires dropping the rear subframe and apparently it's a common issue for long term owners with a good amount of mileage. Quite an expensive job sadly.
I am redoing my gas tank as we speak on my 01CLS hahah
@@letsfixit101 it’s so stupid they still made them out of metal when everyone else transitioned to plastic tanks. I coated the hell out of mine with primer and acrylic paint.
@@Darksyne I will be posting videos on mine once everything is done! I love how mine came out! Not may people get to have painted tanks so should be cool
Had a 2003 cl type-s 6 speed years ago. Never had a single issue with it. Only sold it at the time because I was a new father and it sucked getting one, let alone 2 kids buckled in the back. I'm far beyond loving any fwd car but man did I love that car in that spec.
On the crank sensors, specific to the CL Type-S 6-speeds: there are 2 crank sensors, one that's shared with the standard automatic cars (Crank sensor 'A'), and a second, unique one on the manual transmission bellhousing (Crank sensor 'B'). The B sensor is unobtanium in both new and aftermarket, and has the potential to cripple the rare manual cars if it fails. Some have suggested hacking up an RSX sensor to fit, but I can't speak to whether this works or not.
The RSX sensor is a direct replacement, no issues at all. 👍
Good job keep it up ...need to work on presentation ...I talk the same way...hahahaha...but for reals I think it gives the hole video its own style....good job bro
Lower Ball Joint.
Main Fuel Relay.
Automatic Transmission.
sub-frame.
crank Sensors
Use AT 205 seal conditioner for engine oil and powerstearing fluid or transmission leaks.
My biggest gripe is in the interior - the door panels are poorly made and always separate where you grab the door to close it. Unless there's a solution out there that I'm not aware of, there's no fixing it. I'm lucky in that i've had zero mechanical issues so far and only an oil pan gasket leak on the 1of43. I just got home yesterday with the silver twin replacement, but so far so good!
@erice7746 - The separation of door material can be resolved by taking the door card off, using some epoxy or gorilla glue
@@acura2g The gorilla glue has to be the one for foam. There's a video about fixing it unfortunately I didn't save it. It involved removing the panel and clamping the piece together
@@acura2g going to try that on mine. driver side definitely needs love
owner of a 1999 Acura TL
I got mine on tein flex z coilovers got 2inches lowered in back and and 2.75 inches in front , my ball joint I swap them every 1 1/2 year since roads are messed up ain't letting it get to me ever 😂, second 02 tl type s and now some issues but not all
Bow and ended the car still running those car is real good😊
the VTEC solenoid leaking oil is an issue most Hondas have, all the Honda ive seen needed the gasket replaced, I also had to replace the gasket on all my accords, its not that hard to replace the gasket, also i recommend using OEM Honda gaskets, it will fit, sometimes the aaftermarket ones dont ffit
DRL light (daytime running light) intermittently comes on and daytime running light do not work, when using the full lights at night everything is fine, turns out the Day Time Running Light relay has poor solder connections, had to pop the rely out from underneath the dash directly under the steering column and re-solder all the connections, about a year later it happened again, now I just ignore the DRL light...sometimes I can tap it and it and the lights begin working again.
I must hav an Evaporator leak in my 2008 Tl Type S . My engine light has been on for over 3 years. The Acura dealership replaced the Evap purge part and the engine light came back on by the time I mad it home This was serviced . 2 years ago. I’ve taken it to Goodyear and the couldn’t fix it. So needless to say I just drive withh the engine light on.
If you're throwing a EVAP leak, there is a service port that can be used to introduce smoke and pin point the leak
@@acura2g k I’ll have the Goodyear mechanic check it out👍
Bought an 02 Acura tl and within the first 7k miles it blew a tranny on the highway and today sadly I have blown a head gasket. Sad to say after I bought this car from a 1 owner family that looked like they took care of it all it’s life and had service records for everything and dealership serviced.
Wow! Sorry
was it preventable?
I had a 2003 TL-S and went through the first transmission after 100k, first rebuild lasted less than 30k, second rebuild also lasted less than 30k. Cursed design. Thank god the lower ball joint detached and I got rid of it 😂
Why won't my car go n to gear was running fine 2000 tl
More talk than necessary.