@@Mark-c5l 95lb-ft is considered the industry max torque for aluminum wheels. When you factor in torque wrench acceptable variation percentages it is better to err on the side of over torquing (compared to Honda specs) slightly than under torquing to avoid wheel lugs loosening through expansion and contraction.
@@acura2g Interesting, in regards to the 95lbf-ft aluminum wheel standard you mention; however, I just can't see, after twenty+ years without issue using the 80lbf-ft Helms recommendation, myself over torquing by 15lbf-ft to counter alleged presence of that much expansion & contraction. Have you ever tried to remove the wheel nuts at 80 lbf, in an emergency side of the road flat tire situation, with that inadequately low leveraged puny wheel wrench included with the jack without a cheater bar, lol? It would be pretty near impossible at 95lbf.
Ty, great new format! Much improved. Just out of curiosity how long did the rack take you to do? I just had mine done for $700 in labor. Last summer I replaced all steering and suspension components. The new rack made a huge difference. I bought the car new and I was told the car was in an accident because caster was out of spec and I had to school the ASE mechanic about adding shims to the radius arms. That made no sence to him so I went to anither shop and he dropped the subframe and he was able to make the caster adjustment by moving the subframe slightly after installing the rebuilt rack. The car drives great now just like it did in May 2002 when I purchased it new. How is testing going on the new transmission mounts? I would love to replace mine. Keep up the great work!
Just curious, the Helms states either 79.6 or 80lbf-ft for wheel nut torque, why would you go with 95 lbf-ft as stated in the video?
@@Mark-c5l 95lb-ft is considered the industry max torque for aluminum wheels. When you factor in torque wrench acceptable variation percentages it is better to err on the side of over torquing (compared to Honda specs) slightly than under torquing to avoid wheel lugs loosening through expansion and contraction.
@@acura2g Interesting, in regards to the 95lbf-ft aluminum wheel standard you mention; however, I just can't see, after twenty+ years without issue using the 80lbf-ft Helms recommendation, myself over torquing by 15lbf-ft to counter alleged presence of that much expansion & contraction. Have you ever tried to remove the wheel nuts at 80 lbf, in an emergency side of the road flat tire situation, with that inadequately low leveraged puny wheel wrench included with the jack without a cheater bar, lol? It would be pretty near impossible at 95lbf.
Did you pull out the rack via the passenger side wheel well
@@Icandothatalsow out the bottom and then you can take it out whichever side you want.
Ty what brand do you recommend for outer tie rods and ball joints oem or mavel or etc
For ball joints, OE or mevotech ttx. For outer tie rods I like Moog
@@acura2gok great thanks man
Ty, great new format! Much improved. Just out of curiosity how long did the rack take you to do? I just had mine done for $700 in labor. Last summer I replaced all steering and suspension components. The new rack made a huge difference. I bought the car new and I was told the car was in an accident because caster was out of spec and I had to school the ASE mechanic about adding shims to the radius arms. That made no sence to him so I went to anither shop and he dropped the subframe and he was able to make the caster adjustment by moving the subframe slightly after installing the rebuilt rack. The car drives great now just like it did in May 2002 when I purchased it new.
How is testing going on the new transmission mounts? I would love to replace mine.
Keep up the great work!
In total, the actual replacement of the rack took about 1.5hrs.
Durability testing is underway for the mounts.
Thanks for the feedback and watching!
How much would a shop charge for this job?
That's hard to answer because geographic region, steering rack used, and shop hourly rate will vary.
I just did one at my shop along with a passenger axle that was torn and 4 wheel alignment. Total bill: $1650
There’s no way you just pulled it out the left side bro I am STRUGGLING RN
Jk y’all I got it don’t forget that you can move the inner tie rods rods
What were the sizes for the hydraulics line nuts? Appreciate everything you’re doing for the cl community by the way!
Good question. I can't clearly remember but it was either a 12mm or 14mm.
Bro, is it possible to get away with leaving the j pipe in there? These bolts are rusted! 🤦🏽♂️
@@yausaptheshasuabary180 sorry, no. Use heat if you can
So you removed the rack from the passenger side right?
@@yausaptheshasuabary180 you push it passenger side and drop down the driver's side of the rack and remove it from the driver's side
@@acura2g brah, that was a batch. Thanks bro