The Albrecht Chuck Video - Tune Up - Tear Down - How To Do It
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 มี.ค. 2024
- How to rebuild your Albrecht chuck. I show how to take it apart, clean it up, dress the surfaces, lubricate and reassemble.
Products in this video -
Jacobs wedges - amzn.to/48Bn9PN
Albrecht Chuck - amzn.to/48Bnemz
R8 - JT6 Drill Chuck Arbor - amzn.to/49TFpVm
Arkansas Stone Set - amzn.to/3TutNDb
India Stone - amzn.to/3SYDh8c
Lithium Grease - amzn.to/3T8zEg2
Acid Brush - amzn.to/3V2nCXZ
Email - jon@rightonwithjoncrane.com
Website - Right On With Jon Crane
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I’ve had mine for 50 years it’s perfect still now that is money well spent
Right On! 🙌 That’s a great testament to the Albrecht Chuck! Great quality!
Excellent video…the best I’ve seen on the Albrecht….
The reason Albrecht don’t use lubricants is because they end up looking like yours if you do…
Ive never used grease on any lathe or drill chucks as it just acts like a magnet for dirt and chips, and ends up going hard like varnish and can seize the chuck…if you do want to use a lubricant, a fine oil like 3 in one is plenty good enough and makes future maintenance so much easier…
I use just a film of CMD Extreme Pressure Lube #3 for applications like these.
Excellent video. I have two chucks that need service. This motivated me to proceed.
Oh Right On! 🙌 Nice! It sure felt good to get this one cleaned up and in good working order! Thanks for watching!
When I saw you stoning the different areas like a Surgeon I knew the action was gonna be Buttery Smooth when you got done.
Man that chuck runs so smoothly now! 🙌✨ Right On! 🙌 🥓🥓🥓🥓
What an excellent tutorial. Really amazing camera angles and close ups. Deluxe work. Cheers
Right On! 🙌Thanks Joe! I was doing my best to get the detailed shots for a detailed job. Thanks for the compliment!
The reason why tapers are longer than they should be, at least most often, is the fact that someone at some point ground the taper in as to repair some dings or dents that were imparted to the surface, most likely when the arbor was dropped during assembly or maintenance...
I like your use of stones... Those hard stones are to me known as wood chisel honing stones, tho, that is only because that was the first instance where i came across the ground hard stones for tooling... They really do some amazing work in careful hands... And you didn`t abuse them on that properly raised burr, but went for the coarse stone instead to begin on it... Nice!
Speaking of lubrication, i tend to use spindle bearing grease for chucks, non channeling spindle grease that is... Tho, every grease channels a bit in some scenarios... If you use any lube on the chucks, you have to open them up at least around every 5 years and service the lubricant all over... Shit can get contaminated, absorb moisture, collect micro chips and so on... That`s why no lubricant is specifically stated by the book... I would not run any chuck dry, but yeah, if you want it to last, you have to take period care of it... The 5 years i stated is only due to that being the recommended service interval for my specific spindle grease... NSK states that bearing grease can far surpass it`s recommended lifetime and can be safe to remain in use, yet they also state that it should be checked and even sent to analysis if you are using it after that long a period in a high grade, precision system... A chuck is no high precision spindle bearing, but it is an instrument of sorts and should be treated well... Just change that grease every so often... Better to prevent than to contend with issues caused by neglect...
All in all, a nice job!
Best regards!
Steuss
hmmm, more simple then I thought. My Albrecht chuck needs service like this. Now I feel I can and will get it done. Thanks
Right On! 🙌 Yeah not too bad! Obviously I need to do more regular maintenance on mine and it’s easy to pop it open with the right setup. Thanks for watching!
Another note... Jon is not kidding on how very little grease should be used. If you use too much grease or any amount of oil, the chuck will not tighten and hold a drill bit. It will feel like a spring when you tighten it, and not hold a drill shank. So just use barely any grease. Just a super thin amount. --Doozer
Right On! 🙌 That’s very true! It’s amazing how sticky that lubricant becomes! Thanks for the good comments Doozer!
very nice and clean Jon..well explained..
Right On! 🙌 Thanks! I appreciate the nice compliment!
thanks for the lesson.
Very interesting and excellent tutorial. I recently did a Jacobs Chuck that was sticking and now as good as new. Thanks for the video.
Right On! 🙌 That’s cool Tony! I have some Jacob’s chucks I’m going to do next. I’m sure that’s nice to have it running smoothly!
@@RightOnJonCrane looking forward to it
Many thanks
Right On! 🙌Thanks for watching and leaving a nice comment!
Thanks Jon, an interesting series and a timely reminder that all machines require some maintenance once in a while !
Right On! 🙌Thanks Andy! yes this is leading me to clean up those Jacob’s chucks. It’s nice to have well maintained tools. Feels good once they are cleaned! 🧼
I can attest to the superb quality of these chucks. Oftentimes you even get one with an integral pull stud when you buy a machining center.
Right On! 🙌 Yeah such great quality! Thats interesting with the pull stud! Thanks
If you have a surface grinder, what I do is grind some wrench flats on the body in the area right above the knurled hood. This allows you to grip the chuck in a vise for disassembly without the need to make a grip collar (that brass block that Jon made). For those who don't know, the steel is too hard to mill, you must use a surface grinder. --Doozer
Dude doesn't seem to know Scotch Brite is abrasive, so I wouldn't bet on him having a surface grinder...
Right On Doozer! 🙌 That’s a good tip. Make the maintenance nice and easy!
@@RightOnJonCrane I respect you not taking the bate. It was a pretty good video, and I definitely enjoyed learning about the chuck and how it operates. Thank you!
@@pookiestube It seems you have a firm grasp on all manners of abrasive. --D
@@pookiestube Not all Scotch Brite is abrades steel. Some will barely scratch plastic. The hardest one will lightly scratch soft steel, but will not scratch hardened tool steel.
Mr. Jon, I'll never need to do this but I enjoyed the video. Veey informative and well done.. Now the next set you have on the docket , I have one like that..just smaller I use on the wood lathe.. good stuff, makes me want to get a metal lathe and become a wanna b machinist 🤠👍
Right On! 🙌 Thanks Big Vic! Yeah those Jacob’s chucks are awesome. Great quality as well. I’ve got those on the bench and ready to go. Would be great if you got a metal lathe! 🙌
Well done video!! Nothing more you could have added, thanks
Right On Bill! 🙌 Thanks for your nice compliment!
Lately, I bought two Albrecht-chucks from China for USD 14.99 (free shipping). One for my milling machine and the other for the drill-press. These chucks work smooth and fine - and runout ist less than 0.01mm.
And we are shocked when our tool manufacturers go bankrupt and there are no alternatives left in the free world.
@@anandarochisha This is simply the free cannibalistic and predatory market: When one supplier sells his products for a ridiculous price and one western manufacturer buys these products and can sell his manufactured goods for a ridiculously low price too, other manufacturers have to flip their suppliers too - otherwise they went into bankruptcy. Deng Xiao-Ping, the architect of the WTO-1995 globalism decrees knew this. It is all but a coincidence, he told the world, real power would no longer come from gun barrels, but from Chines factory buildings.There is nothing, we can do against, since it would take generations (!) to reindustrialize the West.
Everyone hates burrs, but they're rarely a problem on well-used tools. Burrs are a bigger problem on new tools, often making them feel rough or even jamming. Sometimes an old tool will grow a burr on an edge that will actually interfere, but not often because that would be a poor design. Good video, well explained!
Jacobs made a modern precision keyless chuck, I have two of them-
Nice overhaul instruction Jon, Well Done. The brass clamp is worth as much of the chuck.
Right On! 🙌Thanks Randy! You’re right! That brass ain’t cheap! Especially from McMaster!
excellent...and thank you
Thanks for this, gettin` me motivated to tackle a few around here.
Those green Scotch Brites are around 600 grit and will definitely scratch a polished surface.
Informative video which for me could be applied to other tools...🖖
Right On! 🙌 Thanks! Yes lots of little details about tuning up the surfaces that can be used on many tools. Thanks for watching!
My instructions from Albrecht specifically said to NOT lubricate the threads on the spindle. It needs to be dry for proper operation. YMMV
Nice work . Very informative . Is it necessary to remove the arbor & collar to disassemble the chuck ?
It all depends what type arbor is in it. If it was a small straight shank arbor it could stay on but for an R-8 it has to come off if you want to slide the body out to get to the ball bearings. With a straight shank you could slide the collar off. That brass block I machined is a nice way to hold onto the shell of the chuck to open it up. Hope this helps. Right On! 🙌
Great job!!
Right On! 🙌Thanks!
Great video!
Right On! 🙌Thanks Magdad! I’m sure Chuck liked this chuck video!
Amazing is that albrecht today basically has again higest precision stuff with apc.
someone had trued up the taper on the arbor while mounted in the machine... making it smaller then and go in deeper... forgetting to shorten small end of arbor..
Hi Mike! I actually cut that taper off in my previous video where I slipped a puller over it to get the chuck off. That JT6 taper was strange that it went so far into the Albrecht chuck.
@@RightOnJonCrane no I meant the jt taper, not the r8
It would be nice if some TH-cam presenter would do an INTEGRAL SHANK Albrecht chuck teardown and reassembly. No such video exists.
So the gripping surface of the jaw should be pointy with no flat at all? I am pulling mine apart at the moment and the first thing I noticed is that the jaws have quite some wear on the point, but I thought they might have a flat like lathe chuck jaws
If it’s a half inch chuck the jaw face should have a small flat and not pointy. If it was a smaller chuck the jaw face gets smaller to hold smaller bits. Right On! 🙌
@@RightOnJonCrane ahh I should’ve been wearing my glasses, I couldn’t see the flat!
I have had one of this. I didn't know anything about, it had I MK1 Arbor and I didn't know how tow change it. I just give it away.
I am regretting now 😢😢😢😢😢
I hope another comes your way for a good price! You gave that one away. What goes around comes around. Maybe someone will give you one. 😁🙌
The original arbor that the chuck was mounted to was not a Bridgeport arbor.
JIM🎉
Right! It was some off brand deal!
😊
Right On! 🙌Thanks Lukas!
Good tutorial but, I think that you did not put enough grease on the bearings.
Right On Roger! 🙌 I do like to go minimal on the grease. Just enough to stop and corrosion.
thxs for sharing, say Hi to Moma Kitty...
Right On! 🙌 Thanks Tom! She says hello! 🐈
right on Jon@@RightOnJonCrane
stalaCtite grows from the ceiling
stalaGmite grows from the ground
was the jacobs taper that was too long made in china?
Most likely it was! I did not see any markings on it.
I see many ignorant people putting a 1" step shank drill bit in these and ruining them. Also a hex shank hole saw will ruin them. These are precision tools. Not for blacksmiths or neanderthal machinists. --Doozer
I’ve never been a fan of those step shank bits! Whenever I see them they are usually chewed up where the chuck grips them from spinning.