Installing a Drill Chuck on a Jacobs Taper Chuck Arbor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This will be a quick and dirty video showing how I mount a drill chuck on a Jacobs taper arbor (for mounting the chuck in a Morse taper socket). Nothing earth shattering, just thought I would share this as long as I was doing it. We go through how to inspect the socket and tapered arbor for any damage or burrs, cleaning, and installing it.
I've had issues where the arbor eventually comes apart while in use and the best way I found is to wrap the arbor up in a clean rag and put it in the freezer over night and then quickly hammer in into the chuck or spindle before it warms up. Freezing it will allow it to shrink down a smidge and will then have a tight secure fit once expanded back to room temperature.
Much appreciation for your taking the initiative to do the video!
+George Cooper Jr Thanks!
Concise and to the point. Great video. Thanks!
Wanted to make sure I did this right and yours was the first vid that popped up. Good to meet you at Fabtech!
One good Rap not Ten !!! That was great advice... Thank you for the lesson on that
Thanks for this Keith! I received a similar chuck and taper and had no idea the proper way to connect them. You saved me a ton of time, and I've found another great channel to subscribe to - THANKS !
+Warren Bailey Thanks Warren! Glad to have you on board!
Great video. Thanks for the tips. Installed my new chuck and arbor as stated - runout two inches below the chuck went from 0.010" to 0.003". Me happy 😄
Thanks for the tip, Keith. You always have valuable and informative advise.
Have a good one!
Dave
Excellent - taper clean and dry, no oil!
Thanks brother for taking the time
Really appreciate. Such knowledge might sound silly but it isn't. In fact your knowledge is an valuable asset. Thanks for sharing. In time: Just to mention, I was about to complain that my chuck is missing some screws to install it. =P
Thanks for another great video. You are truly a mentor
Hi Keith, yep, the cleaner the better!
Looks like the taper adapter you have also has the hole for a flat head machine screw in it! I have found a lot of banged up chucks around because of people not looking inside the chuck for a screw before trying to separate the chuck from the adapter!
Thanks for the tips!
Jeff
A first class cleaning is a must!
Thanks for sharing....13
My new drill chuck is in the mail, just the tip I needed!
Thanks!
Now I'd like to know how to dismount something if I want to change to something different because this video was really great and if I want to put a better chuck or different size one on my shaft I would greatly appreciate knowing
I have done all of your steps and put the arbor in the freezer. It gives it a little bit better fit.
This is good information and right on time. I'll be putting a Albrecht chuck on an adaptor pretty soon now. I was wondering if you were going to "wring" those two parts together! Good advise on the "one big hit" procedure! Thanks so much of posting this!
Very helpful, video! Just what I needed.
+Ted Johnston Thanks!
thank you, this video showed me where I was going wrong
just what i was looking for. thanks for the good instruction.
fine lapping compound works best for a good fit. I had a lathe arbor that would break loose and spin in the tailstock when drilling. It was very annoying so I lapped the tailstock and arbor together and voila It no longer breaks free. It took 5 minutes to do. .. I took a 1/2 inch ground dowel pin in a hand drill chuck and then chucked the other end in the drill chuck for the tail stock #3 morse taper. Then coated the arbor with some lapping compound and inserted it into the tailstock and rolled the drill slowly. I removed it frequently at check how things were going. After lapping I cleaned both the male and female tapers and fitted them together. All my other #3 Morse taper attachments and drills no longer break free in the tailstock. When assembling the two parts wring them together.
Thanks for giving details of chack removed.......😍😍
“One good rap!” Perfect 👌👏👏👍😀
Be sure the "jaws" of the chuck are fully withdrawn so they don't take the shock of the rap.
I'd like to see how to remove the chuck from the arbor.
Also, when shopping for a new arbor how do you know the degree of precision of the different brands. I was shopping on Travers Tool site & they list 3 or 4 brands, at different prices, but no mention of tolerances. The chucks are even worse, there were dozens of brands & models of those...
thanks for the video,
maybe i shouldn't have got rid of that drillpress i had because the jacobs chuck kept falling off its taper, im sure it could have been worked out, now i can find out more about them!
Great tip! thank you
Excellent tutorial video thank you! Do you have one to show the reverse scenario to remove the chuck from the arbor?
You usually use a wedge between the arbor and rear of chuck....or...sometimes you can hold the chuck in your hand and use a copper/brass hammer and hit the arbor in the direction away from chuck....although I'd avoid hitting any drill chuck if I could avoid it.
Thank you! Great video as always! :) I got a vintage Flott drill press with a fixed taper mount that has some medium burrs in it. After removing the obvious high points the chuck fits, but I would like to refinish the taper mount a bit better for minimal runout. A guy told me I could (with great caution!) hold a perfectly flat fine sharpening stone (eg a Norton used for sharpening blades) at the rotating arbor to get a good flat surface. I'm not really sure if this messes more stuff up than it helps... would you try something like this?
Brand new and mine is alway coming off. Jacobs chuck with R8 adapter into a jet mill. Terribly frustrating
Why is the other end flat. How does they fit in the tail stock
Hi Keith,
Do you have a method to remove the taper without drilling the bottom of the chuck?
Thanks
Chuck
I had to remove an old broken chuck off a good arbor a few weeks ago. I used my sonic cleaner with a degreaser solution on the parts first then on the advice of my dad (who was a machinist for 35 years) grabbed my rose bud torch with the chuck down applied heat to the chuck only and it fell off very quickly.
Mike
I would have used the propane for mine too but I was out and too lazy to run and grab more, lol. I was careful on the heat. I tried wedges on it first but I got nothing. I think mine was something my grandfather bought back in the 50's so it was stuck good and tight. Granted I used wedges I made not the actual wedges from Jacobs but I thought they would work.
It didn't take a lot of heat. Just enough to where it couldn't be touched and dropped right off.
Is it possible to make a reverse adapter to go from the #2 Jacob Chuck adapter to the #3 Morris taper for light milling with my heavy duty drill press.
the proper way to do it
If you needed to take it apart what is the process for that?
good news, the drill press i mentioned above has come back to my possession, i have bought a new JT6 chuck for it as the old chuck is too stiff and unable to ID the right key (unbranded chuck) i will in the next few weeks be taking it apart, its covered in greasy sawdust right now, I have also ordered a new belt, the bones of this (small) press are good, so I should now have solved its issues once i get to work on it
+jusb1066 Very nice. A drill press is a good machine to do a restoration on as they are pretty easy!
+Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org well more on my drill press saga, i measured the taper, ordered a chuck, my best measurements told me it was a JT6, but it did not fit too well, you could feel it rock on the taper, but now i was committed and had to make it fit, i spend a couple of hours or more bluing, using some emery to get the taper to be a good fit and im afraid i cheated and used permanent loctite (it does not have a separate arbor, its a one piece nose). only now have i found out why it always suffered from chuck loss.....i found the same drill on ebay, but it still had its specification label, it was not JT6 but ... JT 2 1/2, which is an obscure taiwanese 1970's size, a chuck in that is unobtainable...for some reason before i got it someone had shoved a jt6 chuck on it as the measurements are very close indeed, and i though the same. The quill pulley is also on a taper, secured by a nut which thread albeit a left hand, is the wrong way, and can spin the pulley and unto the nut, it is also now loctited...i hope my careful emery work and loctite is both effective and does not get me kicked out of a machining channel! and thus ends a near 30 year mystery!
I'm curious. What did you bid on Keith?
Nice..
Is that an Emmert vise I see you have mounted to your workbench?
Another way you can ensure your assembly will NEVER just come apart is Loctite Red applied with a primer (# 522, I think). Once the Loctite is set, you need considerable brute mechanical force to get it apart.
For Loctite to work you need a gap! when the 2 tapers come together there is no gap just perfect metal to metal contact. The use of Loctite could also made the chuck eccentric to the spindle centre line or wobble, special joint design needs to be applied to ensure concentricity when using Loctite
Hey Keith! Love your videos!
I was wondering if you have done anything as far as fixing the mounting arbor itself inside of the drill press for morse taper drill presses? That is the "notched" part that the MT shank mates into inside the drill press. We got an old yuasa drill press where somebody in the shop severely smashed and damaged it. We need to get it fixed and haven't found anything on how to fix it [yet]. Just wondering.
+MLTomson The only thing I have ever done like that is clean up the inside of a morse taper with a reamer. Never dealt with notched part....
Thanks keith
+Jason Burns Thank you for watching!
So, put the chuck on the shaft and hit them. Thank you.
great video,,, im kinda being a lil-on the cheap side with this question but i VERY RARELY get new stuff,, i need to install a NEW .625 straight shank arbor with a jt33 on the other end into a NEW keyless chuck,,they are both covered in serious "goop",, i have a fairly new can of "laquer thinner" on hand but no acetone, if i go buy acetone i wont use it again and it will just sit,, is "laquer thinner" safe on the parts and ok to use or do i need to go ahead and buy acetone,, i know its not that big of deal to buy but i already have the thinner on hand yet i DO NOT WANT TO MESS UP NEW PARTS OR LEAVE SOME CRAPPY RESIDUE,, what are your thoughts,, laquer thinner-ok?? OR acetone only! Thanks for your input
TRUBLEMAKR Lacquer thinner would be just fine, but it can leave a bit of a residue. Be sure to wipe it all down really well. Also, fingernail polish remover is nothing more than acetone, so if you have any females living in your house, you probably have some acetone and did not even know it.
Keith Rucker - VintageMachinery.org theres no women but in my experience it would be cheaper to order a tanker of acetone than get a woman,, i got some thinner and i found some rubbing alchol,,, think ill just stick with that!!! keep the videos coming,,, thanks for the reply!!
Keith, I ordered the Jacobs Taper Chuck, but did not come with the arbor. When the order said chuck, key & mount was the mount not the same as an arbor?
I think that the "mount" refers to the actual Jacobs Taper part that you then put on your own arbor. While you can order a chuck already mounted on an arbor, most of the time you provide your own arbor.
Thank you Keith....I will watch the video, although I think I had to do that with my original purchase...I just have a problem knowing what to call the different parts. I truly appreciate your quick answer. I went ahead and ordered the arbor and hope it is the right size....it is for the Jacobs.
I just realized while watching this that I watched it before. I love that you show about cleaning and de-greasing the parts first. Thank you again Keith and thank you for a clear, crisp video that is easy to follow and understand. Some of us old gals cannot comprehend things based on a man's prior knowledge :>)
if i can buy my mt2 arbor and chuck as one piece , is there any reason not to?
No reason not to if that is what you want to do. I have done it both ways.
spindles spin, that's a mandrel
Now how do I get it off?
how do i find out what taper is on my old chuck? i am in the need of a new one
+MrMrsregor What kind of chuck is it?
why one hit and not 10?
Honestly, this is not a good way. You will insert them unevenly and have bad runout. Use the quill to press the chuck on the already installed arbor.