Add VIBRATIONS To Your Sim Racing Rig For GREAT Immersion! - A Step-by-Step Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- #simracing #haptics #diy #simracingsetup
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✅ PART II: How Loud are the BST-1's and How to Dampen Vibration Noise? • Dayton Audio BST-1 Bas...
✅ PART 3: COMPARING SIMHUB vs. LFE and MY LATEST SETTINGS! • SimHub vs. LFE for But...
SHOPPING LIST:
- Dayton Audio BST-1 50w Bass Shaker: www.soundimports.eu/en/dayton...
- Nobsound Mini Amplifier: www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluet...
- 10m Loudspeaker Cable 2x2.5mm2: www.amazon.nl/dp/B07BQ25Q3R/r...
- 400x200 VESA Mount: www.amazon.nl/dp/B008KL72T8?r...
- Velcro tape: www.amazon.nl/Anstore-Industr...
- Felt tape: www.amazon.nl/Pllieay-Zelfkle...
- Wire clips: www.amazon.nl/dp/B08FRNMNPY/r...
- M4 x 20mm bolts and nuts with washers (it’s not x200 as i mentioned in the video, that was a mistake! My bad!)
DOWNLOAD SIMHUB:
- www.simhubdash.com/download-2/
MY SIMHUB CHANNEL MAP FILE (SEE HOW TO IMPORT IT AT 18:11):
- drive.google.com/file/d/15MFX...
MY SIMHUB SHAKEIT BASS SHAKERS EFFECTS PROFILE:
- Set the Nobsound to 100% volume
- GLOBAL GAIN (audio slider all the way on the top right): 50%
- ABS ACTIVE: 20% volume, 44Hz
- ENGINE VIBRATION: 15% volume, engine generator mode set to "grainy"
- GEAR SHIFT: 30% volume, 30Hz
- ROAD IMPACTS: 15% volume, 44Hz base frequency, 50hz high effect frequency
- ROAD RUMBLE: 15% volume, 44Hz base frequency, 50hz high effect frequency
- WHEELS LOCK: 15% volume, 50Hz base frequency
- WHEELS SLIP: 10% volume, 50Hz base frequency
TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 - What is a bass shaker?
2:04 - Build components
3:29 - How to mount bass shaker to my seat
5:18 - How to wire a bass shaker
6:27 - How to mount bass shaker to my pedal plate
7:01 - Wiring bass shakers to Nobsound amplifier
11:00 - SimHub - Download and profile creation
13:10 - SimHub - Connecting and testing bass shakers
14:40 - SimHub - Setting up a custom channel map in Sound Output
19:05 - SimHub - Enabling and tuning effects in Effects Profile
Shoutout to MrMcGibblets86 on /r Sim Racing on Reddit for the mounting idea:
- / how_i_mounted_a_dayton... - เกม
![ป่ะป๊าเลอา ชื่อ ??? [ดูคลิปเต็มหน้าช่อง] #Short | PANG ORNHIRA](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ssxX0VkJCTo/mqdefault.jpg)
✅ PART 2: I SHOW YOU HOW LOUD THE SHAKERS ARE AND HOW TO DAMPEN VIBRATION NOISE! th-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/w-d-xo.html
✅ PART 3: COMPARING SIMHUB vs. LFE and MY LATEST SETTINGS! th-cam.com/video/DHPZYrg9cIo/w-d-xo.html
Hey everyone! I hope you found this helpful. Please note that the tuning of this setup is very much up to your own preference and what feels good for you. In addition, different ways of mounting the bass shakers will deliver different results. This also depends on which rig you have, the material, the contact surface of the bass shakers, etc. If you have a different rig, you might want to consider other ways to mount the shakers.
Mounting alternatives:
- Cheapest is probably using a 200x200 vesa mount, you can use it to mount your bass shakers directly to the aluminium extrusion
- Google "bass shaker mounting bracket": there are several solutions, including 3d printed parts from sellers on Etsy
- If you have a bucket seat, you can drill the bass shaker directly into the hard fiberglass shell
- Some mount their bass shaker to a wooden mount, which they then secure to the bottom or back of their seat
- Some setups use zip ties for mounting
Ideally, you want the entire flat surface of the bass shaker to be in contact with the rig.
Good luck!
ziptie mounting "works" but you loss 3/4 the straight compared to a solded mount. my rear one is ziptied for now and i can barly tell its thare compared to the front one even thought i have the frount one turn down to %50.
I made a similar system with a pair of 200W bass shakers, mounted under my seat, left and right, powered by a 100W MOSFet car audio amplifier. The amp is 12V powered, but that's no great problem with a separate PSU off eBay. It works really well!
By the way, there is a huge benefit for haptic feedback when you isolate the platform that your shaker is mounted to from the rest of the rig. On a German forum, people are talking about isolating their seat and pedal-plate from the rest of the rig and having a huge improvement from the vibrations felt. For instance, if you mount your shaker directly to the seat, then putting even just a rubber washer between the mounting of your seat to your rig and the seat will help a ton, because now the shaker will not have to shake the entire rig anymore and the energy is more localized to the seat.
Understood, will keep that in mind and thank you so much for the tip!
Those are some dedicated sim racers if they’re willing to take their seat back off for a gamble. I dread touching a seat slider.
Incredibly well explained. Ordering parts now. Thank you!!!
underrated advice for this type of equipment
I actually find more imersive to have the entire rig shaking although mine is pretty lightweight, I can imagine havier rigs would benefit a lot from this
pro tip- never connect electronic parts like this mini 2 channel amp to the chair itself because it will be vibrating and thats not good for non military grade products, with time it can fail, some electronic parts in the electronic board can come off , it can not happen but it can happen for sure, for potentiometers like the big volume knob the vibration with time can even damage it, anyways i think you did a great job and all this message is from someone who understands a bit in this area, cheers man and happy new year, sorry my english Portuguese-lisbon here
this is a great alternative to the but kicker right? as a DCS player i think the but kicker price is just a ripoff and disgraceful 340 euros is just insane
Most informative video I’ve seen in quite some time. I feel very comfortable pulling the trigger on this purchase now. Thanks!
Great tutorial. Will use this as my reference for my setup when I get to the installation.
very simple,and wow what a change.thank you.
I’m glad you found it helpful mate!
Truly well done. Perhaps the most instructive vid I’ve ever watched. Your attention to detail (eg the Post It notes), is impressive and incredibly helpful. Thanks, all is exactly what I was looking for and I look forward to seeing more vids from you!
That's incredibly kind of you mate, thank you very much! I appreciate it :)
This video is amazing, concise, and got me running with my setup. Looking forward to watching your Part 3 latest setting after ripping some laps! Thanks, dude!
You’re welcome buddy, glad it helped 😊
The best video I've seen on this subject. Very well done
Thank you so much for the kind words mate!
My friend, thank you so much for this video, it's literally the best information I've ever found on the Internet! Any sim racer reading this it's the best money you'll EVER spend on your rig, words can't describe how alive it feels👌🏽❤️
Hi Paul, you are welcome, and thank you so much for the kind words!
Hec yeah this is a really good help, think I'l be getting this done now. Thank you for the share great work sir.
Thank you and enjoy it!
I'm new to this, and have watched LOTS of videos on "sim stuff" in the last month. This is one of the few that I watched from start to finish; no skipping...! A brilliant, informative video. Excellently paced, ALL the info you need, no wasted time or divergence, one of the best videos I've seen. Top effort. Well done and thank you. A new subscriber...🤩
Thank you so much for the kind words!!
brilliant video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!!
Thanks Robert :)
Top notch tutorial! Made me pull the trigger, and I do not regret it one bit. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it mate!
Thank you for this video i am currently building a sim rig out of wood and this helps a lot for my immersion! keep up great vids I subbed and saved!
Glad it helped mate, and thank you for the support!
Excellent info young man, thank you. I bought myself the same mini amp in Red to match my red sim rig seat and two 20W transducers for under my seat only! One underneath and one on the seat back. I already have rumble motors on my V3 Fanatec pedals. Very cost effective solution. Cheers. 👍
Thank you! Enjoy your new setup!!
Thanks for sharing your settings file and the details. Hard to find a good detailed video these days.
You're welcome Wilson, I am glad you found this useful!
I actually have all of these components already I just never added them to my rig. Seeing your video and the step by step setup has inspired me though and I'll be working on it this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Very glad to hear this mate, let me know how it goes!
This is genius! Thanks for explaining how to set this up. I can't wait to get a cockpit!
No problem mate - it really is super immersive! Hook it up once you've got your cockpit!
Really good job putting this together, will probably replicate this on my rig
Cheers mate!
Thanks so much mate. I just build your setup and it's sooooo good :)
Hey Mick, I'm super happy that it worked out well for you! Enjoy!
Hey thanks for this! I've already got a buttkicker & just bought a Trakracer TR8 Pro as well as the same DA Transducer & amp.
I'm hoping I can mount the DA Transducer under the seat using the VGA mount, but not 100% sure yet.
This has been the best in-depth & well explained vid I've seen so far, so I appreciate what you've done :)
Thank you so much TJ! Good luck with the mounting!
Sorry, a bit late to your video but only recently decided to add shakers to my rig. Great vid, probably the best i have seen, thank you.
You are welcome mate and thank you so much for watching and supporting!
Thanks for this tremendous video. Can’t beat the price, and it looks like a fun project to add more immersion to my rig. 🔥
Cheers mate I really appreciate the kind words! I’m a couple of weeks in with this setup and still enjoying it a ton!
@@LDFR glad you think outside the box. Helps a ton of people. Cheers!
Great video! really appreciate the effort put into it! Well done, I'll let you know how i go with my setup.
Thanks James, good luck with it and enjoy!
Great video! It's making me want to try it!
Thanks Rachel! :)
Buddy you nailed it amazing content keep up the good work buddy 💪
Thanks mate much appreciated :)
Just bought this whole setup, coming in today, I'm estatic!
How did it go??
Just bought both of these and your video is really helpful in setting them up correctly.
Awesome Igor, let me know how it goes!
@@LDFR it's awesome. My whole rig now hs FFB, not just the wheel.
Probably could have made it a 10 min video, but appreciate you taking your time to make this😊
Thanks mate :)
After watching this, I got a similar setup for my sim rig for GT7, used bit and pieces that I had stashed. I already had a two channel amp, etc, Simhub talks to the PS5 for telemetry.
Sounds great, enjoy your new setup mate :)
How many shakers do you have for ps5 gt7 setup ?
@@juiceman8873 I currently have one on the bottom of the seat bracket, I cant tell which side it is from, I have another one waiting to go under pedal plate. But I can have as many as Simhub will support.
Thank you ! I will try out this setup on my rig ;0)
Sounds great Allan, let me know how it goes!
Very useful video! I’m doing this
Good luck with the build and enjoy it!
Beautiful video thanks you!!
You are welcome, glad you found it useful :)
Nice work:)
This was great.
Thank you Philippe 🙏🏻
Very nicely done and explained 👏 👍 👌 😀
Thanks a lot 😊
Thanks for the tutorial. I ordered a 35W shaker for the front and a 50W for the rear. As amp I‘ve chosen the red Nobsound 2x 100W. I need to pay attention to not set the shakers to 100% in simhub like you did. At the moment I only play RaceRoom but I have a code for 3months iRacing. Maybe I give it a try.
Edit: the shakers are Dayton Audio BST-2 and AuraSound AST-2B-4.
That sounds like a great setup mate! Good luck setting it up!
Any link to the red nobsound thank you
great video thank you, just setup mine like yours!
You’re welcome mate :)
Thanks for the video mate, I will check your profile out for sure, I have exactly same setup as yours. keep up the good work
Thanks a lot Horacio, I appreciate it mate! Welcome!
Thank you for this Video. This helps me a lot. I will try the same as you have.
Good luck, let me know how it goes!
@@LDFR Hello, i have used aura instead of the diatone and i have not them same rig as you have ( i have a sturdy wooden rig).I used your profile and had to adjust the volume for the vibrations on my rig.
It is working really well, i love it. Now i have to fine tune it a little bit.
Thank you so much for your guide! You did a great job and helped us a lot!!!!
I have a date and audio and an amp on the way looking forward to the experience and if I want to add another few
Excellent video
Thank you!
Ah yes the most famous amp + shakers combo. Personally I use a little bigger red Nobsound amp, it is barely more expensive but much stronger, does not overheat this much and lasts longer as my mini fried pretty quick. Also I also used spare vesa plate to mount one of them, happens to allign well. I use one for pedals and one under the seat.
A little addentum, that red Nobsound amp is not all-in-one solution like the mini, I had to connect it to my DAC. Still the output is at least 2 times stronger and there is less hassle involved, I had some grief trying to connect the mini, sometimes it would just not work, it would occasionally lose signal and indeed overheat a lot while this red one is more solid. Granted I didn't use it in months as I broke one of the cables while adjusting my rig and didn't get around to ordering a replacement yet, so can only comment on use over a few months and not a full year. The amp is indeed something worth more consideration, ideally you would want one amp per one shaker to get clear separated signal for which the mini would be a good solution, but it really struggles to drive 2 at the same time. Also do experiment with placement before you fix it in for good, depending on your rig and seat you can get too much of the vibrations absorbed by the seat, or have too much go into the floor disturbing your neighbours. Having one under pedal plate gives nice strong feedback, the one under the seat is much trickier to pull off, good luck!
Hey mate thanks a lot for the valuable feedback! So far so good for me with the mini, but I’ll definitely keep an eye out on the overheating issues you mentioned. I might also try another amp at some point and do a review later on comparing different solutions.
@@LDFR make sure to always turn it off after your session is done, by muting all the dials. I suspect mine burned because I didn't dissconnect it when not in use and it was just on in the background, I often let my pc on during the night so it might have been too much. One day it just stopped working at all!
Yeah as everything gear related in sim racing the job is never trully done, playing with different amp will surely happen, but imo it would be best to just stick to this one for at least couple of months, then after that you will immediately pick up on any differences in your setup. I tend to start changing stuff too soon as I get too hyped and eager and in the end have no clue what I'm doing lol.
Yeah that might be the case! I disconnect my whole rig in between sessions as I don’t want parts to run on idle so hopefully it won’t get as hot 😂 and yeah I’m definitely gonna sit on this setup for a while!
@@LDFR Wise! My rig IS my daily pc setup, with swivel keyboard tray and triples, so I use it every day for normal pc use and gaming, and once I want car mode I switch on all sim dedicated ports on my usb hub and start True Drive. Realistically bass shaker amp and wheelbase are the only bits with their own power cables, so I didn't bother giving those two separate power outlets, but maybe eventually I should. It already requires fiddling depending if I want triples or vr as with only 3 display ports avaiable can't have both ; - / so having to flip extra switch woudn't change much.
Great video you did a very good job explaining it all. It would have been nice to have source links. But that’s just me being lazy
You're welcome! Links to almost everything I used are in the description!
Thanks a lot for this video bud. I really don't want to drill holes into my new bucket seat either so I'm wondering if there's some sort of double side strong tape to attach it under the seat or the back, also under the pedal location too.
Hi mate! It’s not impossible, but I read some inconsistent stories about this - it worked fine for some, and it didn’t work for others. The bass shaker is relatively heavy and you’ll need very strong tape, that’s for sure!
I had the buttkicker gamer 2 which worked good, other than going out when it would get too hot. A fun mostly fixed that. I tried the same setup with the same transducers and the same amp, but both transducers blew after around 6 months. I am thinking it needs a low pass filter, because I hear too many mid range and high range sounds coming through the transducers. So now I am thinking of getting a buttkicker gamer pro.
Hey Mark, thanks for the info! I’ll definitely keep an eye out for the longevity of the transducers
Amazing video. I had ordered a Buttkicker Pro and quickly canceled the order because of your video! Quick question: At 18:02, in your simhub setup, under road vibration, I see a Front left setting and a front right, as well as rear left and rear right. However, earlier in the video, under other settings, they are marked as ALL. That part is confusing. Any additional insights?
Thanks for the walk through. One suggestion though. I was watching via a mobile phone. Foe this kind of viewer you might want to zoom in on the app setup. I will watch again later for sure but was watching at work on my dinner. It was hard to see exactly what you was doing. :)
Thanks for the feedback I'll keep that in mind for next time!
Slip Angle sells everything you need in one kit for $499 (usd) LOL! Great to see DIY is still alive in sim racing
True! I do like the springs in that kit - but it is indeed overpriced. I guess you pay for the time that guy took to research everything and put it all together - which some people aren't bothered to do 😂
I'll say thank you now. I just ordered the stuff with the 4 smaller pucks today, it will be here in 3 days!
Has anyone tried putting one on the wheel base itself? It seems to me I get a lot of the vibration through my wheel in a real car. Not just torque in the wheel but the front suspensions vibrations out of the plane of the wheel.
Hi John, thanks! Good luck with the setup process!
I’ve done a lot of research and never really saw anyone stick one under their wheelbase mount, but I’m sure that it could be a cool thing! After all, to each their own!
Thanks for taking the time & effort to provide this information.
Does the Vesa bracket just happen to match your seat mount spacing or have you made adaptions in some way?
You’re welcome! The VESA bracket matched my setup with a Sparco R100 seat perfectly. I think this probably will match most seats. If you want I can measure the distance between left and right side bolts?
I've just received a 400x200 Vesa mount, ally profile cockpit & seat due to arrive shortly, will see how they match up. Thanks again for the info.
This is an excellent, very detailed, step-by-step video. Great job. I have been thinking of getting a Buttkicker Gamer Plus or doing a DIY setup like this. I have a DIY (wood - MDF) with a car seat and heavy duty wheel casters rig that I use for driving games (Dirt Rally 2, ATS, ETS, Wreckfest) and flight sims (DCS World, IL2). I have rudder pedals as well, so there would be no option to mount them at the front. Would only one of these BST-1 shakers be equivalent to the Buttkicker, or would I need 2?
The Buttkicker Gamer Plus is $399 CAD. It's 75W - 250W max, with a 5-200MHz frequency response. That seems to be quite a bit better than the 50W and 10 - 80 MHz that the BST-1 outputs? Or am I reading that wrong? Everything you list in this video would cost me close to $400 CAD as the BST-1 alone is $92, that's why I'm asking if you could get away with just one. Otherwise it probably makes more sense to just get the Buttkicker.
Hi Karl, thanks for the kind words mate! Indeed, the buttkicker is more powerful than the BST1, as you’ve already mentioned - you read that right. Now, I’ve never used a buttkicker so I cannot tell for sure, but I personally never use my BST1 anywhere near the maximum power setting. So I wonder whether all that power (of the buttkicker) is needed in the first place. With so many people using BST1s, something tells me that it might be sufficient power!
But I would definitely recommend doing some more research, there might be videos out there comparing the 2 directly!
Great Video. Thank you for that. I wonder if a Bass Shaker with fewer watts would be better, as you mentioned that all the volumes are less than 20-15. That means the 50W Bass Shaker are way too much for the job. What do you think?
Good question - I believe that power per se isn't the only factor, but one also needs to consider the extra detail you can get from having a bass shaker with a broader frequency spectrum. Not sure that bass shakers with lower wattage offer the same level of detail?
Mate his is amazing tutorial. Can you get more channel amp?😊
Thank you! You can definitely use an amp with more channels, or use 2 amps!
Hi friend i really enjoyed listening to you explain the bass shaker settings. I really want to try your settings but I m still new at this and don't know much about TH-cam. Please how can I download your settings.
What is the link to your channel.
Thanks.
I'm one of your subscribers.
Hey mate, you can download my channel map from the description of the video. You then have to import it in SimHub - see how to do that in the video! My settings for the effects are in the video description :)
Try to not run run shakers to max, this amp will work but a stronger amp would get you better and more reliable results. I think 2 of those shakers should be fine for that amp, I just wouldn't run it too high haha.
I have the same amp but only with 2 pucks and a shaker. It's still working pretty good and doesn't get hot. Might upgrade to a stronger amp soon.
Hey mate thanks a lot for the tips! That sounds like a great set up by the way!
Great tutorial video! Do you think if adding one more amplifier so you can have 4 transducers, will be too overwhelming. The ideia was to have one at each corner of the rig. Cheers.
Hey! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR Thanks for your reply. That makes sense actually. The vibrations together with the sound with dual or multi channel will make you distinguish where everything is coming from.
Awesome video and Im about to begin building your exact build. Shouldn't it be M4 x 20mm however?
Hey Brendan thanks a lot mate! I just double checked and you’re right - I made a mistake in the video. I’ll amend the description - thanks for flagging this!
Great idea! I'm almost sure I'm going to add it to my rig :) Did you try to use it in other sims like ACC or just iRacing?
Cheers Piotr! So far only tested in iRacing, but from what I read from ACC users over on Reddit it should work just fine on that as well using SimHub. From what I see on SimHub though, not all effects are available for all sims. For example, the traction control activation effect can be used if racing in ACC, but doesn't work in iRacing. Good luck!
It works with acc euro truck2 assets corsa elite dangerous project cars and more
I use for AMS2 and rF2 works great.
4:20 you don't need to drill holes in your seat. your seat is already bolted to the rails with i guess 4 or 6 bolts. if you drill the distances of these bolts into a accordingly sized plate, you can mount it between the rails and the seat. my only fear is the rail. any ratling compenent in there? Do you get any ratling noises when the plate is fixed under the alu profiles? anyway gonna try this awesome project. thumbs up
Great point Tom! I don't get rattling sounds, unless washers or bolts used in this setup come loose. I also used felt tape between the bass shaker mount and the aluminium rig for that specific purpose :)
Amazingly clear and well done video. Would it help to have bass shaker in every corner of the car? I think front/rear is enough, but what are your opinions?
Hey, thank you for the kind words! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR This is an interesting take on it. I heard that if the shakers "spin" in the same direction, they cancel each other out. These shakers don't work like that I think? There is also a system that has shakers in every corner but the rig is on springs, so you can feel low and high frequencies better.
The fact that this system tricks the brain so well is a testament of it working well though, I think I would be fine with this.
@@TheStobe84 I am familiar with the sprint system that you mentioned, it looks really cool! My advice would be to go with a 2 channel set up first, and then if you are still not satisfied you can try 4!
Thank you. Could you explain how to do it with 4 Bass shakersalso?
It's the same principle, but you need 2 amps! I'm sure there's lots of videos out there showing this!
Thank you so much for this video, dude!
One thing I am stuck on though:
What do I do if the "USB 2.0 Device" doesn't show up in the list of "sound output" options?
You're welcome! And that's a good question, unfortunately it's not something I've experienced myself. Are you using a powered USB hub (like connected to an electricity outlet)? If not, that might be an issue. Also, are you plugging it in a USB 2.0 port? You might have this issue if you're connecting it to a USB 3.0 port. Those are the low hanging fruit solutions, but if the problem persists there might be more that can be done to try and fix this
Great video! Would it be possible to buy two sets of these and fit it to the corners of the rig, to simulate the wheels?
Since the amplifier only has two channels. Maybe it's possible to buy one with four channels?
Thank you for the video. It was very informative.
Definitely possible yes!
Super interesting video ! I am wondering what's the difference betweem a Buttkicker and your solution in term of feeling. Is your solution exactly the same for a better price ? Or Buttkicker offer more sensation ? Someone as feedback comparing these both solution ?
Thanks Guillaume! That’s a good question - and honestly I don’t know the exact answer to that. I think that detail comes down to frequency range, and I think that the Buttkicker’s is wider. But I’m not sure. In general, given that so many recommend these DIY solutions when talking about buttkicker, my assumption is that not a lot of performance is left behind when opting for this
Hi, big fan of your videos....do you think with the same setup you have I can get away with the 35watt counterpart that cost almost have???or it won't be powerful enough??
Hi Joel, thank you! Regarding the 35watt shakers, power won't be an issue, but the BST-1's do have a better frequency range and I think the effects will feel nicer. That's what I've read!
one thing to note even though the nobsound amp is 100 watts it only comes with a 60 watt psu. so you could $15 per shacker by going with the 35 watt bst 2. as you cant use the full power unless you buy a 100 watt psu wich at that point you woulld be better off just buying aamp that can take the heat of 100 watts better. i say this even though i bought 2 bst-1 and a nobsound amp knowing this.
Hey mate, thanks for this comment as this is useful information! I was aware of this, and still decided to go ahead and try it with the stock PSU. As I’m currently getting more than enough power for my liking, I’m happy with it! But indeed to use the full power the upgraded psu from their website is the answer.
Thank you very much for the great video. how did you make the sound settings in iRacing. the nobsound is a second sound card. what is the defold and how did you set the Lfe. iRacing crashes for me when I turn on simhub and nobsound. it always seems to crash when an effect comes on or the spotter speaks. Maybe I have a conflict with the sound cards
Check my SimHub vs. LFE video for the answer to this - I explain it all there :)
Hi, amazing video!!! I just have one question; does this work on PS5?
Thanks mate! Honestly, I am not sure. After a quick research on youtube / reddit it looks possible yes, but I haven't looked into that!
4 Dayton BST-1 and 1 Buttkicker. I used the same settings as you and instantly felt the difference. Really felt connected to the car. Did you update your settings lately?
That sounds like a lovely setup mate! And no I still use those settings!
Nice video, great job. I was just wondering how much noice do the shakers make at your settings, becouse my rig is in my living room and woudn't like it to be too loud. Thanks
Hi Rok, thanks! Slightly difficult question to answer because it's hard to compare the noise to anything else, but I'll do my best to help you.
Consider this: at my settings, if someone else is in the room with you, they will most likely hear a slight to mild vibration sound - probably a bit less loud than a phone vibrating on a table - but it won't be nothing. However, you can turn it down, still get valuable and immersive feedback, and limit the noise even more, to a point where it shouldn't be a disturbance.
From my experience, rather than the sound of the shaker itself, the biggest problem is vibration noise traveling through the floor. It won't seem loud to you in the room you're in, but to someone chilling next door, or even your neighbor, it will sound like an elephant is stomping around in your living room. I have laminate flooring and I had this issue.
To fix this issue completely, I isolated my rig from the floor using rubber feet as well as an anti-vibration mat, like this one: www.amazon.com/Goodhoily-Rubber-Vibration-pad-Anti-Noise-Washer/dp/B07TX6RRWJ/ref=zg_bs_16413781_sccl_3/144-0618689-6181369?psc=1 I paid 16 euros for mine at the local hardware store. You can also try mechanical vibration dampening pads.
This keeps the vibrations away from the floor. I use a 18mm thick one. So starting from the floor, it will look something like this: floor - dampening mat or pads - rubber feet - rig. That made it significantly less loud overall.
Good luck!
@@LDFR Thank you very much for the detailed answer. Best regards Rok
Hi Lorenzo congratulations for your new rig and the channel. I'm newbie in the SimRacing world. I don't have the space to use a complete (with the chair) and permanent rig. Instead I will use the GT Omega Apex Wheel stand, and I want to add some haptics. My easy option is put both shakers under the pedal tray, but considering the short distance between them, what configuration do you recommend, Left/Right or Front/Rear? I don't know if I can notice the difference using the Front/Rear configuration. What do you think about it? I don't know if two 50w bass shakers is to much for a Wheel stand! Thanks in advance for your advise! Great channel by the way!
I mean, put the shakers under the wheel stand pedal plate. Side by side to represent the left and right side of the vehicle or top and bottom to represent the front and rear of the vehicle. Unfortunately it is not an option to place it under the sofa where I will sit.
Hi Sigfrido! First of all thank you very much for the kind words! Regarding the placement of the shakers, if your only option is to place the shakers underneath the pedal tray, I recommend putting them in a left/right configuration, at least you can simulate the front left and the front right tires. As soon as you're able to mount one underneath your seat though, I'd move one of those shakers to your seat, because in general having 2 mounted underneath your pedal plate is indeed a bit overkill and you might not feel the difference between left and right that much! Ironically, even with 1 shaker placed in the middle underneath my pedals, my brain always tricks me into feeling the vibrations coming from the right or from the left when I drive over curbs!
One final thing: if you go for a front left and front right configuration, make sure you use the correct channels in the channel map! My channel map file will not work for you, because mine is programmed to do front and back!
@@LDFR Thanks Lorenzo for your advise. I think the same way, I think that the best configuration at the moment is the left front right. Until I can be able to place a dedicated seat. It would be interesting if you also tried the assetto corsa competizione. Saludos y nuevamente gracias!
@@sigfridomiranda2442 Cheers mate, good luck! I've never raced ACC before, but if I do I might do a comparison!
A question. Should bass shakers be mounted on a flat surface or on a surface with holes to allow air to escape? Thank you.
I think the best way to go is having the whole base of the shaker in contact with the mounting surface!
Great tutorial , Can you explain how you are able to run a game and Simhub together at the same time so I can tune Live while in -game. I am able to use Simhub to adjust but the game Automobilista 1 (running in windowed mode) stops when I try to adjust any effects.
Hey mate thank you! I must admit, I have no method for that - I just have them both running at the same time. Sounds like that might be an issue with automobilista. Does it crash if you open other sims while sim hub is open?
Great video! I am looking to go for it, but looking as most of the settings are not run at 100% and less than 50%, do you think you could get a similar output with the BST-2 or TT25 with settings turned up a little higher? I honestly don't know much about these on the technical side, so thought I would ask!
That’s a really good question! To be honest, I’m not 100% sure. As in, certainly the BST2 will do the job. But I am not sure if they have the same capabilities in terms of frequencies. Maybe double check that first before deciding!
@@LDFR thanks for the response! In the end I replicated your setup, my BST-1s have arrived and the nobsound is on the way. From what I could gather the smaller ones do end up running a different frequency and can be a bit more "buzzy" than the "kick" or "rumble" effect! Looking forward to upping my immersion, thanks again!
Does it make a difference if an amplifier says it’s made for a subwoofer or not when it comes to these bass shakers? I want to run 2 BST-1’s so I wanted to know if the Fosi Audio TB10A would be a good choice since I’m plugging it into my receiver in the subwoofer port anyway.
Hi there, I am not 100% sure if it’s an issue, but I do not think so! I have seen a lot of users go for the Fosi instead of the Nobsound. Not sure if the same model as yours though. I could find a lot of information on Reddit about amp alternatives, maybe give that a quick check!
love your video it got me interested in adding base shakers to my rig. If bolting the basshakers underneath my pedal plate is not an option do you think doublesided tape will work ?
Hi Giovanni, I wish I could provide a definitive answer but unfortunately I have read mixed opinions about this approach - it seems to work fine for some, and it seems to fail for others. If it's your only option, I'd say go for it - get the best quality double sided tape you can find and give it a shot. Worse case scenario it falls off and you can always try with an alternative. If you can't mount directly to the pedal plate, you could consider using a VESA 200x200 mount or bracket to mount it to the rig at the front, if possible. It wont be centered, but it should still provide an almost identical effect I think!
@@LDFR Thanks for the info I can definitely do the vesa under the seat like you did. My main concern is the pedal tray. I have the Advanced Sim racing ASR3 cockpit. I also have the simagic P2000 pedals with the pedal plate my concern is if i bolt the base shaker to the bottom of the cockpit pedal tray it will interfere with the pedal plate for the simagic pedals
Double sided tape failed for even a small puck transducer I attached to my brake pedal. Need to really connect it well. Have fun setting yours up 😊!
Hi mate. Just wondering if you’ve fine tuned this or are the settings on the video description the latest you’re running? If possible could you export the profile settings file? 😀 and also the map settings file in case you’ve changed anything
Hi Horacio! No changes in the channel map, but I did turn my effects settings up a little because I started getting used to the vibrations and wanted to feel it more. I didn’t turn it up much though! I’ll update the settings in the description soon!
@@LDFR thanks! Let us know once you’ve updated them. You may want to try the LFE settings built in Iracing. So far I’ve found them to be better than simhub’s
@@HoracioJimenez Settings are updated in the description!
Regarding LFE, at first I was a bit put off by the fact that it's single channel only, but I may still try it. I might do a video comparing SimHub to LFE is the results are interesting.
@@LDFR thanks for that. Let me share my LFE settings with you and hopefully we get to see that video. I’ll check your settings on simhub too.
Main vol 5dB
Game Audio -40
Impact 0
Engine -40
Gear 0
Rev limiter -11
Rumble strip 5
Wheel slip -6
Road texture -10
Let me know how you like them
Bst-2 doesn’t work? I don’t know why but this version is more cheaper in mexico, can i use this version?
Will this help for the back end breaking traction? Im always pre countersteering just incase and sometimes its disastrous when ive not actually broken traction
The wheel slip effect is fairly reliable at letting you know when the car is on the limit of grip in general
I use headphones to play games. My headphone sound is gone but the cushion is short. Is there a way to fix this?
How are you able to connect the nobsound to a USB hub and have Simhub identify which usb is the audio input among all of the USB's connected to the hub?
That's a good question as for me it was automatically recognized. Once you plug it in, does the audio input configure / show up in your audio settings on windows? (before even checking SimHub)
Hello guys, i hesitate btw the NLR HF8 with his 8 small motors or a bass shakers like yours. The budget would be approx the same around 200-230 euros but the most important part is the noise. I don't want to bother my neighbor, my wife and kids when i race (the last thing i want when i'm into a race is the complaint of my wife, lol).
So how to isolate the noise of the 2 bass shakers, is there rubber i can buy or other solution?
I made a video about this, check the description!
just a question do you know if this works with DCS ? taking in consideration that this amp has a USB maybe there are different softwares to make it work with aviation effects right? tx
I have no idea - you might have to Google this :)
Within SimHub, you set priority on gear shift and wheel slip. Do you notice them fighting each other for priority? I’m guessing SimHub doesn’t have an order of priority but I’m not sure. I would imagine you would want to feel wheel slip over a gear shift. Thank you in advance!!
You're right - best to set one of the two to priority. I actually removed priorities as I was not enjoying having a single effect taking over (it ruined the immersion a bit) but this is entirely up you! The settings I use in this video are a bit old - check out the description for my latest settings on SimHub, and check out Part 3 (see pinned comment) to see how I use SimHub and LFE together currently!
Hi... This question is a bit out of the conversation but my nobsound cuts the audio for a split second every few seconds when max or even close to max volume. This happens with both of the 12v or 19v power supply(using the dayton bst-1) and the nobsound ns-01g pro. In order for the audio to not cutout every few seconds the volume has to be turned down significantly. Any idea on what could be causing this?
Hey mate sorry to hear that you've been facing this annoying problem. I haven't experienced this and I am not sure what could be doing it. I have done some research just now and unfortunately I couldn't find much info on this. Sorry to not be helpful. Have you had any progress resolving this?
Thinking about doing a similar setup for all 4 corners to try and get directional feedback. Given your experience with the 50w, do you think the 35w BST2 wouldn't be enough for this?
The power itself will be enough, but the BST2 does not have as broad of a frequency range as the BST1, so effects will feel a bit different, I’m not sure how though. 90% of these DIY bass shakers setups do prefer the BST1s, so the difference must be noticeable.
Thank you for watching!!
@@LDFR ah I didn't think about the frequency response. Thank you.
hi can u tell me if the amplifier gets hot when using? im looking for a solution that doesnt get too warm.
Mine does not get hot!
How would these settings translate to a single transducer instead of two? I'm using a single buttkicker gamer 2 under my seat. Can I use these settings as-is d'you think?
Hi Andreas, it might get more confusing with everything under the seat - I would then maybe go for essential effects (such as wheel slip, wheels lock, and a couple others) just so that it doesn't get overwhelming! The most important thing is that the effects can tell you what the car is doing, and if there's too much going on at once it might not be helpful (it will still be very immersive though). The benefit of having 2 is that you can localize the effects and spread them out across your rig :)
Have ever tried with more than 2 shakers? does it make sense to have more?
I haven't, and to be honest, I think that 2 are sufficient. Quite a few people use 4, but I honestly think that it's a bit overkill. To each their own!
Do you find that the steel mount flexes too much? Seems fairly thin, and dont you want a solid interface?
Hey mate - I didn't notice that much flex, it's pretty solid! But you bring up a good point, I wonder if it would be better with a thicker mount. Might be something to test in the future.
Hello, great video and install idea. I followed your instructions and it turned out well. Not as much vibration under the seat, but the pedals are great. Question: I no longer have audio for my headphones. I use headphones and mic for iRacing and can’t figure out how to solve. Also, sound is now playing through PC. Would like to turn off. Any help?
Hi Kris, I’m glad it worked! Bear in mind my settings are sort of conservative so by all means turn up the power of you want to get more of those vibrations coming from the back! Regarding the sound issue, I think this is solvable through the windows sound settings. Try to set your headphone as the default sound playing device and it should work! You only need the Nobsound (USB 2.0 Device) to be selected as the audio device within SimHub. I hope this helps!
I use Voicemeeter Banana to control all my sound devices. On channel 1 I switch between external speakers or headphones - depending on how I am playing. Channel 2 is for the buttkicker. Channel 3 is for VR. With voicemeeter, you can control the volume for each sound device separately. I also have the 32 band Equalizer APO installed. That makes the sound of each device sound soooo much better.
@@markp2085 Thank you for the tip. I have since resolved my sound problem but I will download Voicemeeter to equalize all the sound. BTW, do you leave your Nobsound soundcard on all the time? I turn mine on and off as needed. Sometimes it doesn't pick up when I turn back on. Just wondering. Thanks again.
@@krisscheussler2403 For my racing sim, I turn it on when I am playing and turn it off otherwise. I have another one though that I keep on all the time. That one is attached to a transducer on my desk chair, so I have it on all the time. I am a blogger, and I jam music while I am writing. Its nice to be able to feel the music. I don't use the built in sound card on the amps. I have the amps connected to a 7.1 usb sound card. I can connect 4 amps to it for a total of 8 transducers if I wanted. I only have three transducers, one on my office chair and two on my racing cockpit.
I actually wanted to order all the parts right away, but I just realized that there are sound problems when you use headphones. I use it with my VR glasses, so I'll probably have the same problem. Can someone explain to me how to set this up under Windows 10?
Did you put felt tape also under the both shakers
Hey Roberto, I did not! The shakers’ contact surface is lined with a foamy material already out of the box.
Hello my friend do you think two Dayton audio bst-1 is enough as you entered or put 5 dayton audio bst-2, one per wheel and one under the butt?
For me personally 2 are enough! Funny thing is, if I hit a curb on the front left tire, even with the bass shaker placed center front, it still feels like the effect is coming from the left! In my opinion 5 is overkill, but I’d say try with 2, and if you’re still unsatisfied then try 5!
Very good idea, I will do as you advised me !!!
do I set up the software for every game or can i set and just play
You'll have to do individual settings per game!
How does the vibration compare when it's mounted on a bracket under the seat as opposed to directly under the seat? I'm worried I wouldn't feel it enough or at least as much as I would like to feel.
I'm not sure as I've never tried it directly attached to the seat, but I can definitely feel the vibrations well - even with relatively low settings!
@@LDFR Nice. I'll have to try that. I just finished mounting mine directly under my seat and it feels a little to localized. Maybe I'll give the bracket a shot
What is the purpose of the felt on the vesa plate? Won’t that just dampen out some of the vibrations? I guess it will help prevent any galvanic corrosion from using aluminum and steel together.
It’s intended to prevent the vesa mount from making metal on metal rattling noises. I am not exactly sure how effective it is at doing this as I have not tested it without. However, the original creator of this mounting idea mentioned he had an annoying metallic rattling noise before applying the felt tape and that was his solution, so I took the advice given that the tape is relatively cheap!
The tape is super thin so I don’t think it does a good job at dampening the vibrations - they feel sharp right through my seat. And I run my seat shaker nowhere near full power as you can see :)
@@LDFR Thx. I bought the same VESA mount and will do the same thing. Great idea!
Does it work for FPS games and flight sims for example? Or only for racing and Simhub?
It does, it even works for movies! But you'd have to find another software for that I suppose.
Do you think the veas mount will work on a P1-X as well?
Hi Dennis, unfortunately I cannot be sure of this, but I think that in theory it should yes!