✅ PART 2: I SHOW YOU HOW LOUD THE SHAKERS ARE AND HOW TO DAMPEN VIBRATION NOISE! th-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/w-d-xo.html ✅ PART 3: COMPARING SIMHUB vs. LFE and MY LATEST SETTINGS! th-cam.com/video/DHPZYrg9cIo/w-d-xo.html Hey everyone! I hope you found this helpful. Please note that the tuning of this setup is very much up to your own preference and what feels good for you. In addition, different ways of mounting the bass shakers will deliver different results. This also depends on which rig you have, the material, the contact surface of the bass shakers, etc. If you have a different rig, you might want to consider other ways to mount the shakers. Mounting alternatives: - Cheapest is probably using a 200x200 vesa mount, you can use it to mount your bass shakers directly to the aluminium extrusion - Google "bass shaker mounting bracket": there are several solutions, including 3d printed parts from sellers on Etsy - If you have a bucket seat, you can drill the bass shaker directly into the hard fiberglass shell - Some mount their bass shaker to a wooden mount, which they then secure to the bottom or back of their seat - Some setups use zip ties for mounting Ideally, you want the entire flat surface of the bass shaker to be in contact with the rig. Good luck!
ziptie mounting "works" but you loss 3/4 the straight compared to a solded mount. my rear one is ziptied for now and i can barly tell its thare compared to the front one even thought i have the frount one turn down to %50.
I made a similar system with a pair of 200W bass shakers, mounted under my seat, left and right, powered by a 100W MOSFet car audio amplifier. The amp is 12V powered, but that's no great problem with a separate PSU off eBay. It works really well!
By the way, there is a huge benefit for haptic feedback when you isolate the platform that your shaker is mounted to from the rest of the rig. On a German forum, people are talking about isolating their seat and pedal-plate from the rest of the rig and having a huge improvement from the vibrations felt. For instance, if you mount your shaker directly to the seat, then putting even just a rubber washer between the mounting of your seat to your rig and the seat will help a ton, because now the shaker will not have to shake the entire rig anymore and the energy is more localized to the seat.
I actually find more imersive to have the entire rig shaking although mine is pretty lightweight, I can imagine havier rigs would benefit a lot from this
Just wanted to add to this. After messing around I setup the seat with a lower frequency hz (40hz) and set it up for road effects only. I set the front speaker to a higher frequency (75hz) and used wheel slip effect only to that speaker. So road effects only goes to seat and wheel slip only to front speaker. This really made it feel real. I can now feel the wheels slipping on the car. Volumes were front speaker (100%) back seat speaker to 60%. The hz make a way bigger difference in feel than volume does. The higher Hz to the front speaker makes your pedals vibrate faster than the seat which is a low slow vibration. Mess around find your sweet spot. Good luck all.
pro tip- never connect electronic parts like this mini 2 channel amp to the chair itself because it will be vibrating and thats not good for non military grade products, with time it can fail, some electronic parts in the electronic board can come off , it can not happen but it can happen for sure, for potentiometers like the big volume knob the vibration with time can even damage it, anyways i think you did a great job and all this message is from someone who understands a bit in this area, cheers man and happy new year, sorry my english Portuguese-lisbon here this is a great alternative to the but kicker right? as a DCS player i think the but kicker price is just a ripoff and disgraceful 340 euros is just insane
I install this on my setup and also under it I place the power supply, I use rubber in between the metal plate and power supply , should I still be concern
less is more but you can get alot more with fine tuning. Tip: use high priority for for road vibration, road impacts, simulated road texture based on speed and wheel slip. 20 hz for impacts 30 for vibration and 40 to 55 with road texture by speed with high frequency effect anywhere around 65 for wheel slip. Don't put high priority on rpm and that will allow you to turn up rpms higher to get a good solid engine feel while you are at still and reving before start. When u hit the gas wheel slip takes over and when you get grip the road feeling takes over. You don't have to worry about rpms overwhelming other effects with this. Set volumes depending on mounting
My friend, thank you so much for this video, it's literally the best information I've ever found on the Internet! Any sim racer reading this it's the best money you'll EVER spend on your rig, words can't describe how alive it feels👌🏽❤️
I'm new to this, and have watched LOTS of videos on "sim stuff" in the last month. This is one of the few that I watched from start to finish; no skipping...! A brilliant, informative video. Excellently paced, ALL the info you need, no wasted time or divergence, one of the best videos I've seen. Top effort. Well done and thank you. A new subscriber...🤩
Truly well done. Perhaps the most instructive vid I’ve ever watched. Your attention to detail (eg the Post It notes), is impressive and incredibly helpful. Thanks, all is exactly what I was looking for and I look forward to seeing more vids from you!
After watching this, I got a similar setup for my sim rig for GT7, used bit and pieces that I had stashed. I already had a two channel amp, etc, Simhub talks to the PS5 for telemetry.
@@juiceman8873 I currently have one on the bottom of the seat bracket, I cant tell which side it is from, I have another one waiting to go under pedal plate. But I can have as many as Simhub will support.
@@ELheretik1351 you need to get the iIP number of the ps5 from the ps5 settings, and tell simhub settings to read that. sometimes the ps5's ip number will change. I am sure there's loads of guides on the youtubes already for this.
I actually have all of these components already I just never added them to my rig. Seeing your video and the step by step setup has inspired me though and I'll be working on it this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Hit there, I am new to iRacing and after seeing your video on Ultimate Practice Guide I decided to subscribe. I also will be replicating your shakers build, I hope I'll be able to follow this video and make it work. I already use SimHUB for my multiple screens and Dash displays. Great content.
Excellent info young man, thank you. I bought myself the same mini amp in Red to match my red sim rig seat and two 20W transducers for under my seat only! One underneath and one on the seat back. I already have rumble motors on my V3 Fanatec pedals. Very cost effective solution. Cheers. 👍
Bro this tutorial was amazing. I bought an aura speaker and nobsound amp and mounted under my seat and your tutorial and setting up sim hub was seamless. Now I'm getting 4 tubular frame mounts from Etsy and 2 more amps so I can have 4 wheel feedback.
Ah yes the most famous amp + shakers combo. Personally I use a little bigger red Nobsound amp, it is barely more expensive but much stronger, does not overheat this much and lasts longer as my mini fried pretty quick. Also I also used spare vesa plate to mount one of them, happens to allign well. I use one for pedals and one under the seat.
A little addentum, that red Nobsound amp is not all-in-one solution like the mini, I had to connect it to my DAC. Still the output is at least 2 times stronger and there is less hassle involved, I had some grief trying to connect the mini, sometimes it would just not work, it would occasionally lose signal and indeed overheat a lot while this red one is more solid. Granted I didn't use it in months as I broke one of the cables while adjusting my rig and didn't get around to ordering a replacement yet, so can only comment on use over a few months and not a full year. The amp is indeed something worth more consideration, ideally you would want one amp per one shaker to get clear separated signal for which the mini would be a good solution, but it really struggles to drive 2 at the same time. Also do experiment with placement before you fix it in for good, depending on your rig and seat you can get too much of the vibrations absorbed by the seat, or have too much go into the floor disturbing your neighbours. Having one under pedal plate gives nice strong feedback, the one under the seat is much trickier to pull off, good luck!
Hey mate thanks a lot for the valuable feedback! So far so good for me with the mini, but I’ll definitely keep an eye out on the overheating issues you mentioned. I might also try another amp at some point and do a review later on comparing different solutions.
@@LDFR make sure to always turn it off after your session is done, by muting all the dials. I suspect mine burned because I didn't dissconnect it when not in use and it was just on in the background, I often let my pc on during the night so it might have been too much. One day it just stopped working at all! Yeah as everything gear related in sim racing the job is never trully done, playing with different amp will surely happen, but imo it would be best to just stick to this one for at least couple of months, then after that you will immediately pick up on any differences in your setup. I tend to start changing stuff too soon as I get too hyped and eager and in the end have no clue what I'm doing lol.
Yeah that might be the case! I disconnect my whole rig in between sessions as I don’t want parts to run on idle so hopefully it won’t get as hot 😂 and yeah I’m definitely gonna sit on this setup for a while!
@@LDFR Wise! My rig IS my daily pc setup, with swivel keyboard tray and triples, so I use it every day for normal pc use and gaming, and once I want car mode I switch on all sim dedicated ports on my usb hub and start True Drive. Realistically bass shaker amp and wheelbase are the only bits with their own power cables, so I didn't bother giving those two separate power outlets, but maybe eventually I should. It already requires fiddling depending if I want triples or vr as with only 3 display ports avaiable can't have both ; - / so having to flip extra switch woudn't change much.
this is the best explanation i have found on this topic on youtube. very understandable and clearly explained. really great work. thank you for the effort you have made
Thank you, so much for taking the time to put together such a detailed video on this subject and making it so much easier for this community. I cannot wait to receive my stuff so I can hook this up. Sincerely, Richard
Well Done Friend i am getting going on my sim rig upgrades this year and found this very useful well thought out and very in depth how to setup thank you much hopefully i can get streaming my racing rig soon enough. Keep Doing what your doing friend !
I recommend using the Fosi Audio BT30D-S amp over this one which is budget also. It is a little more dedicated to making a bass shaker setup, having normal left/right but also has a 3rd (Sub output). Sub for the seat, left and right for brake and throttle. a few more dials for manual settings as you drive. that helps when messing with diff tracks. Sebring is no Spa in comfort.
Dude thank you so much. You were so detailed in your explanation. Im planning to order these to add to my set up. I would to feel more emersion. Saving your video.
This video is amazing, concise, and got me running with my setup. Looking forward to watching your Part 3 latest setting after ripping some laps! Thanks, dude!
Thanks man, just ordered this exact setup and spent the entire day looking for someone to show how to do these wires. I'm not an audio guy so I'm lost if it's not a standard connector I'm used to from regular audio stuff.
Thanks for the tutorial. I ordered a 35W shaker for the front and a 50W for the rear. As amp I‘ve chosen the red Nobsound 2x 100W. I need to pay attention to not set the shakers to 100% in simhub like you did. At the moment I only play RaceRoom but I have a code for 3months iRacing. Maybe I give it a try. Edit: the shakers are Dayton Audio BST-2 and AuraSound AST-2B-4.
I had great results using this mount instructions guide video on using the VESA mount for the rear BST-1, attached under the Sim Labs GT1-Evo (2020 version) extrusion that the seat is attached to, and the front BST-1 direct mounted to the pedal tray underside (which has built in felt type material on the entire surface to help with direct mount to metal). My rear with VESA plate under the seat vibrations are at least twice as strong as the front are under the GT1-Evo 2020 pedal tray. The custom channels mapping in Simhub is set to 100% for both front and rear, and I'm hiding his custom channels profile imported. My GT1-Evo is the newer revised 2020 version that is 500mm total width overall, up from 480mm I believe, and has a beefier pedal tray (that does appear to have different screw hole locations than the original GT1-EVO pedal plate as well it seems). This can be made to work in the custom channels section of Simhub, since there you can define the front and the rear overall channel volume, like to set the rear to be 60% overall volume slider versus 100% on the front (to compensate for that front versus rear strength difference). My amp is similar to the one mentioned in the guide, a Douk Audio (Tone model), and is the same wattage 50 x 2 channels, and the front and rear BST-1's are connected to that single DAC amp, that acts as a sound card and amp. The result is quite good! I also had tried to mount my BST-1 directly to the back of my seat but it is pretty hefty and eventually the tape I was using list its strength, and it wasn't secure which doesn't help at all. The VESA plate mount solution is great, and is very solid, but for me I noticed about 30 mins trying to attach the same exact dimensions plate to the GT1-EVO 2020 version, that it wasn't going to be able to screw in on both sides. I needed to shorten the width distance for the extrusion pieces that run under the seat for it to be able to attach the VESA plate to both sides, from how I originally had the two extrusion pieces mounted. Once the two pieces were moved closer together by about 2" on both sides of the rig (that was the narrowest that my seat rails could support to be able to mount the seat to the excursions in fact) the plate fit fine, but I should have removed the seat and trying to screw it in upside down was a chore, to get it in the t-nuts. I also hadn't realized the BST-1 could mount directly under the pedal plate in the center even, Overall very happy with his GT1-EVO bass shaker guide method! Thank you! Note: I had very good luck with "4 Pack of Anti Vibration Pads 4" x 4" x 7/8" Rubber/Cork Vibration isolation pads" that can be had on most big online stores, placed under the standard rubber feet; if you don't want to go with the method he used near the end of this video, for the two products he used. The rubber and cork pads work really well and are about $15 USD for 4.
Hey thanks for this! I've already got a buttkicker & just bought a Trakracer TR8 Pro as well as the same DA Transducer & amp. I'm hoping I can mount the DA Transducer under the seat using the VGA mount, but not 100% sure yet. This has been the best in-depth & well explained vid I've seen so far, so I appreciate what you've done :)
True! I do like the springs in that kit - but it is indeed overpriced. I guess you pay for the time that guy took to research everything and put it all together - which some people aren't bothered to do 😂
4:20 you don't need to drill holes in your seat. your seat is already bolted to the rails with i guess 4 or 6 bolts. if you drill the distances of these bolts into a accordingly sized plate, you can mount it between the rails and the seat. my only fear is the rail. any ratling compenent in there? Do you get any ratling noises when the plate is fixed under the alu profiles? anyway gonna try this awesome project. thumbs up
Great point Tom! I don't get rattling sounds, unless washers or bolts used in this setup come loose. I also used felt tape between the bass shaker mount and the aluminium rig for that specific purpose :)
I'll say thank you now. I just ordered the stuff with the 4 smaller pucks today, it will be here in 3 days! Has anyone tried putting one on the wheel base itself? It seems to me I get a lot of the vibration through my wheel in a real car. Not just torque in the wheel but the front suspensions vibrations out of the plane of the wheel.
Hi John, thanks! Good luck with the setup process! I’ve done a lot of research and never really saw anyone stick one under their wheelbase mount, but I’m sure that it could be a cool thing! After all, to each their own!
one thing to note even though the nobsound amp is 100 watts it only comes with a 60 watt psu. so you could $15 per shacker by going with the 35 watt bst 2. as you cant use the full power unless you buy a 100 watt psu wich at that point you woulld be better off just buying aamp that can take the heat of 100 watts better. i say this even though i bought 2 bst-1 and a nobsound amp knowing this.
Hey mate, thanks for this comment as this is useful information! I was aware of this, and still decided to go ahead and try it with the stock PSU. As I’m currently getting more than enough power for my liking, I’m happy with it! But indeed to use the full power the upgraded psu from their website is the answer.
You know man after watching this video I was excited to pursue this concept as I've already done some DIY stuff in sim but after checking the reviews for the vibration pads I really didn't come away with a good feeling about it. Seemed like a lot of these things seem to conk out after not much time. I'm considering just buying pre-packaged gear and calling it done. Probably get an extended warranty on it too since they seem to use the same questionable reliability components.
@@LDFR It's amazing, but some of the settings can be a little overwhelming. I'm trying to figure out which ones I need and which ones just cause too much interference.
Thanks for the walk through. One suggestion though. I was watching via a mobile phone. Foe this kind of viewer you might want to zoom in on the app setup. I will watch again later for sure but was watching at work on my dinner. It was hard to see exactly what you was doing. :)
Amazing video. I had ordered a Buttkicker Pro and quickly canceled the order because of your video! Quick question: At 18:02, in your simhub setup, under road vibration, I see a Front left setting and a front right, as well as rear left and rear right. However, earlier in the video, under other settings, they are marked as ALL. That part is confusing. Any additional insights?
Try to not run run shakers to max, this amp will work but a stronger amp would get you better and more reliable results. I think 2 of those shakers should be fine for that amp, I just wouldn't run it too high haha. I have the same amp but only with 2 pucks and a shaker. It's still working pretty good and doesn't get hot. Might upgrade to a stronger amp soon.
I had the buttkicker gamer 2 which worked good, other than going out when it would get too hot. A fun mostly fixed that. I tried the same setup with the same transducers and the same amp, but both transducers blew after around 6 months. I am thinking it needs a low pass filter, because I hear too many mid range and high range sounds coming through the transducers. So now I am thinking of getting a buttkicker gamer pro.
@@LDFR Hello, i have used aura instead of the diatone and i have not them same rig as you have ( i have a sturdy wooden rig).I used your profile and had to adjust the volume for the vibrations on my rig. It is working really well, i love it. Now i have to fine tune it a little bit. Thank you so much for your guide! You did a great job and helped us a lot!!!!
Thanks a lot for this video bud. I really don't want to drill holes into my new bucket seat either so I'm wondering if there's some sort of double side strong tape to attach it under the seat or the back, also under the pedal location too.
Hi mate! It’s not impossible, but I read some inconsistent stories about this - it worked fine for some, and it didn’t work for others. The bass shaker is relatively heavy and you’ll need very strong tape, that’s for sure!
Hi friend i really enjoyed listening to you explain the bass shaker settings. I really want to try your settings but I m still new at this and don't know much about TH-cam. Please how can I download your settings. What is the link to your channel. Thanks. I'm one of your subscribers.
Hey mate, you can download my channel map from the description of the video. You then have to import it in SimHub - see how to do that in the video! My settings for the effects are in the video description :)
Hey! You inspired me to do a part II as to be fair I didn’t cover noise and isolation in this guide - because when I made it I still hadn’t had the issues with noise - they came later. I’ll do that video as soon as I can. Long story short, the transducers themselves are not that noisy at all, not at the settings I run them at. However, the issue for me was vibration noise: the vibrations traveled into the floor and could be heard loudly in other rooms in my apartment. I fixed it completely by isolating the rig from the floor using rubber feet AND vibration dampening rubber pads (18mm thick) underneath each foot. Ill make part II showing this asap.
Great tutorial video! Do you think if adding one more amplifier so you can have 4 transducers, will be too overwhelming. The ideia was to have one at each corner of the rig. Cheers.
Hey! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR Thanks for your reply. That makes sense actually. The vibrations together with the sound with dual or multi channel will make you distinguish where everything is coming from.
Thank you so much for this video, dude! One thing I am stuck on though: What do I do if the "USB 2.0 Device" doesn't show up in the list of "sound output" options?
You're welcome! And that's a good question, unfortunately it's not something I've experienced myself. Are you using a powered USB hub (like connected to an electricity outlet)? If not, that might be an issue. Also, are you plugging it in a USB 2.0 port? You might have this issue if you're connecting it to a USB 3.0 port. Those are the low hanging fruit solutions, but if the problem persists there might be more that can be done to try and fix this
Great tutorial , Can you explain how you are able to run a game and Simhub together at the same time so I can tune Live while in -game. I am able to use Simhub to adjust but the game Automobilista 1 (running in windowed mode) stops when I try to adjust any effects.
Hey mate thank you! I must admit, I have no method for that - I just have them both running at the same time. Sounds like that might be an issue with automobilista. Does it crash if you open other sims while sim hub is open?
Great Video. Thank you for that. I wonder if a Bass Shaker with fewer watts would be better, as you mentioned that all the volumes are less than 20-15. That means the 50W Bass Shaker are way too much for the job. What do you think?
Good question - I believe that power per se isn't the only factor, but one also needs to consider the extra detail you can get from having a bass shaker with a broader frequency spectrum. Not sure that bass shakers with lower wattage offer the same level of detail?
Amazingly clear and well done video. Would it help to have bass shaker in every corner of the car? I think front/rear is enough, but what are your opinions?
Hey, thank you for the kind words! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR This is an interesting take on it. I heard that if the shakers "spin" in the same direction, they cancel each other out. These shakers don't work like that I think? There is also a system that has shakers in every corner but the rig is on springs, so you can feel low and high frequencies better. The fact that this system tricks the brain so well is a testament of it working well though, I think I would be fine with this.
@@TheStobe84 I am familiar with the sprint system that you mentioned, it looks really cool! My advice would be to go with a 2 channel set up first, and then if you are still not satisfied you can try 4!
Great video! Would it be possible to buy two sets of these and fit it to the corners of the rig, to simulate the wheels? Since the amplifier only has two channels. Maybe it's possible to buy one with four channels? Thank you for the video. It was very informative.
This is an excellent, very detailed, step-by-step video. Great job. I have been thinking of getting a Buttkicker Gamer Plus or doing a DIY setup like this. I have a DIY (wood - MDF) with a car seat and heavy duty wheel casters rig that I use for driving games (Dirt Rally 2, ATS, ETS, Wreckfest) and flight sims (DCS World, IL2). I have rudder pedals as well, so there would be no option to mount them at the front. Would only one of these BST-1 shakers be equivalent to the Buttkicker, or would I need 2? The Buttkicker Gamer Plus is $399 CAD. It's 75W - 250W max, with a 5-200MHz frequency response. That seems to be quite a bit better than the 50W and 10 - 80 MHz that the BST-1 outputs? Or am I reading that wrong? Everything you list in this video would cost me close to $400 CAD as the BST-1 alone is $92, that's why I'm asking if you could get away with just one. Otherwise it probably makes more sense to just get the Buttkicker.
Hi Karl, thanks for the kind words mate! Indeed, the buttkicker is more powerful than the BST1, as you’ve already mentioned - you read that right. Now, I’ve never used a buttkicker so I cannot tell for sure, but I personally never use my BST1 anywhere near the maximum power setting. So I wonder whether all that power (of the buttkicker) is needed in the first place. With so many people using BST1s, something tells me that it might be sufficient power! But I would definitely recommend doing some more research, there might be videos out there comparing the 2 directly!
Super interesting video ! I am wondering what's the difference betweem a Buttkicker and your solution in term of feeling. Is your solution exactly the same for a better price ? Or Buttkicker offer more sensation ? Someone as feedback comparing these both solution ?
Thanks Guillaume! That’s a good question - and honestly I don’t know the exact answer to that. I think that detail comes down to frequency range, and I think that the Buttkicker’s is wider. But I’m not sure. In general, given that so many recommend these DIY solutions when talking about buttkicker, my assumption is that not a lot of performance is left behind when opting for this
Hey mate, I made a video on this, check it out! I show you how loud they are on 3 different power levels, and also show you how to insulate it from the floor so that you don’t get vibration noise throughout the house th-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/w-d-xo.html
Within SimHub, you set priority on gear shift and wheel slip. Do you notice them fighting each other for priority? I’m guessing SimHub doesn’t have an order of priority but I’m not sure. I would imagine you would want to feel wheel slip over a gear shift. Thank you in advance!!
You're right - best to set one of the two to priority. I actually removed priorities as I was not enjoying having a single effect taking over (it ruined the immersion a bit) but this is entirely up you! The settings I use in this video are a bit old - check out the description for my latest settings on SimHub, and check out Part 3 (see pinned comment) to see how I use SimHub and LFE together currently!
Hey Brendan thanks a lot mate! I just double checked and you’re right - I made a mistake in the video. I’ll amend the description - thanks for flagging this!
Great video! This convinced me to do this as my next upgrade! As you know, once you start building, it never stops.. 😅🤣 Also subbed as I really liked the style of content and hope to see you do more!
Thanks for taking the time & effort to provide this information. Does the Vesa bracket just happen to match your seat mount spacing or have you made adaptions in some way?
You’re welcome! The VESA bracket matched my setup with a Sparco R100 seat perfectly. I think this probably will match most seats. If you want I can measure the distance between left and right side bolts?
Thank you very much for the great video. how did you make the sound settings in iRacing. the nobsound is a second sound card. what is the defold and how did you set the Lfe. iRacing crashes for me when I turn on simhub and nobsound. it always seems to crash when an effect comes on or the spotter speaks. Maybe I have a conflict with the sound cards
Hi, big fan of your videos....do you think with the same setup you have I can get away with the 35watt counterpart that cost almost have???or it won't be powerful enough??
Hi Joel, thank you! Regarding the 35watt shakers, power won't be an issue, but the BST-1's do have a better frequency range and I think the effects will feel nicer. That's what I've read!
Does it make a difference if an amplifier says it’s made for a subwoofer or not when it comes to these bass shakers? I want to run 2 BST-1’s so I wanted to know if the Fosi Audio TB10A would be a good choice since I’m plugging it into my receiver in the subwoofer port anyway.
Hi there, I am not 100% sure if it’s an issue, but I do not think so! I have seen a lot of users go for the Fosi instead of the Nobsound. Not sure if the same model as yours though. I could find a lot of information on Reddit about amp alternatives, maybe give that a quick check!
Hello, great video and install idea. I followed your instructions and it turned out well. Not as much vibration under the seat, but the pedals are great. Question: I no longer have audio for my headphones. I use headphones and mic for iRacing and can’t figure out how to solve. Also, sound is now playing through PC. Would like to turn off. Any help?
Hi Kris, I’m glad it worked! Bear in mind my settings are sort of conservative so by all means turn up the power of you want to get more of those vibrations coming from the back! Regarding the sound issue, I think this is solvable through the windows sound settings. Try to set your headphone as the default sound playing device and it should work! You only need the Nobsound (USB 2.0 Device) to be selected as the audio device within SimHub. I hope this helps!
I use Voicemeeter Banana to control all my sound devices. On channel 1 I switch between external speakers or headphones - depending on how I am playing. Channel 2 is for the buttkicker. Channel 3 is for VR. With voicemeeter, you can control the volume for each sound device separately. I also have the 32 band Equalizer APO installed. That makes the sound of each device sound soooo much better.
@@markp2085 Thank you for the tip. I have since resolved my sound problem but I will download Voicemeeter to equalize all the sound. BTW, do you leave your Nobsound soundcard on all the time? I turn mine on and off as needed. Sometimes it doesn't pick up when I turn back on. Just wondering. Thanks again.
@@krisscheussler2403 For my racing sim, I turn it on when I am playing and turn it off otherwise. I have another one though that I keep on all the time. That one is attached to a transducer on my desk chair, so I have it on all the time. I am a blogger, and I jam music while I am writing. Its nice to be able to feel the music. I don't use the built in sound card on the amps. I have the amps connected to a 7.1 usb sound card. I can connect 4 amps to it for a total of 8 transducers if I wanted. I only have three transducers, one on my office chair and two on my racing cockpit.
I actually wanted to order all the parts right away, but I just realized that there are sound problems when you use headphones. I use it with my VR glasses, so I'll probably have the same problem. Can someone explain to me how to set this up under Windows 10?
![[FR-1/4]Tuto Bass Shaker(4) pour iRacing via Simhub](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/POqqJ2ycUB8/mqdefault.jpg)
✅ PART 2: I SHOW YOU HOW LOUD THE SHAKERS ARE AND HOW TO DAMPEN VIBRATION NOISE! th-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/w-d-xo.html
✅ PART 3: COMPARING SIMHUB vs. LFE and MY LATEST SETTINGS! th-cam.com/video/DHPZYrg9cIo/w-d-xo.html
Hey everyone! I hope you found this helpful. Please note that the tuning of this setup is very much up to your own preference and what feels good for you. In addition, different ways of mounting the bass shakers will deliver different results. This also depends on which rig you have, the material, the contact surface of the bass shakers, etc. If you have a different rig, you might want to consider other ways to mount the shakers.
Mounting alternatives:
- Cheapest is probably using a 200x200 vesa mount, you can use it to mount your bass shakers directly to the aluminium extrusion
- Google "bass shaker mounting bracket": there are several solutions, including 3d printed parts from sellers on Etsy
- If you have a bucket seat, you can drill the bass shaker directly into the hard fiberglass shell
- Some mount their bass shaker to a wooden mount, which they then secure to the bottom or back of their seat
- Some setups use zip ties for mounting
Ideally, you want the entire flat surface of the bass shaker to be in contact with the rig.
Good luck!
ziptie mounting "works" but you loss 3/4 the straight compared to a solded mount. my rear one is ziptied for now and i can barly tell its thare compared to the front one even thought i have the frount one turn down to %50.
I made a similar system with a pair of 200W bass shakers, mounted under my seat, left and right, powered by a 100W MOSFet car audio amplifier. The amp is 12V powered, but that's no great problem with a separate PSU off eBay. It works really well!
Does it fit on the Vesa to put two bst1 bass shakers? And a Dayton 300ex? Thanks!
How did you install it with M4 bolts? Did you have to cut the threads? I can't get M4 bolts to fit in my BST-1s holes.
By the way, there is a huge benefit for haptic feedback when you isolate the platform that your shaker is mounted to from the rest of the rig. On a German forum, people are talking about isolating their seat and pedal-plate from the rest of the rig and having a huge improvement from the vibrations felt. For instance, if you mount your shaker directly to the seat, then putting even just a rubber washer between the mounting of your seat to your rig and the seat will help a ton, because now the shaker will not have to shake the entire rig anymore and the energy is more localized to the seat.
Understood, will keep that in mind and thank you so much for the tip!
Those are some dedicated sim racers if they’re willing to take their seat back off for a gamble. I dread touching a seat slider.
Incredibly well explained. Ordering parts now. Thank you!!!
underrated advice for this type of equipment
I actually find more imersive to have the entire rig shaking although mine is pretty lightweight, I can imagine havier rigs would benefit a lot from this
Just wanted to add to this. After messing around I setup the seat with a lower frequency hz (40hz) and set it up for road effects only. I set the front speaker to a higher frequency (75hz) and used wheel slip effect only to that speaker. So road effects only goes to seat and wheel slip only to front speaker. This really made it feel real. I can now feel the wheels slipping on the car. Volumes were front speaker (100%) back seat speaker to 60%. The hz make a way bigger difference in feel than volume does. The higher Hz to the front speaker makes your pedals vibrate faster than the seat which is a low slow vibration. Mess around find your sweet spot. Good luck all.
@@AcousticManJ this is brilliant information!
pro tip- never connect electronic parts like this mini 2 channel amp to the chair itself because it will be vibrating and thats not good for non military grade products, with time it can fail, some electronic parts in the electronic board can come off , it can not happen but it can happen for sure, for potentiometers like the big volume knob the vibration with time can even damage it, anyways i think you did a great job and all this message is from someone who understands a bit in this area, cheers man and happy new year, sorry my english Portuguese-lisbon here
this is a great alternative to the but kicker right? as a DCS player i think the but kicker price is just a ripoff and disgraceful 340 euros is just insane
I install this on my setup and also under it I place the power supply, I use rubber in between the metal plate and power supply , should I still be concern
less is more but you can get alot more with fine tuning. Tip: use high priority for for road vibration, road impacts, simulated road texture based on speed and wheel slip. 20 hz for impacts 30 for vibration and 40 to 55 with road texture by speed with high frequency effect anywhere around 65 for wheel slip. Don't put high priority on rpm and that will allow you to turn up rpms higher to get a good solid engine feel while you are at still and reving before start. When u hit the gas wheel slip takes over and when you get grip the road feeling takes over. You don't have to worry about rpms overwhelming other effects with this. Set volumes depending on mounting
My friend, thank you so much for this video, it's literally the best information I've ever found on the Internet! Any sim racer reading this it's the best money you'll EVER spend on your rig, words can't describe how alive it feels👌🏽❤️
Hi Paul, you are welcome, and thank you so much for the kind words!
Thank you your the only one who has linked the cable I’ve watched idk how many videos in the last 2-3 hours idk nothing about electrical stuff. Thanks
You're welcome mate :)
I'm new to this, and have watched LOTS of videos on "sim stuff" in the last month. This is one of the few that I watched from start to finish; no skipping...! A brilliant, informative video. Excellently paced, ALL the info you need, no wasted time or divergence, one of the best videos I've seen. Top effort. Well done and thank you. A new subscriber...🤩
Thank you so much for the kind words!!
Truly well done. Perhaps the most instructive vid I’ve ever watched. Your attention to detail (eg the Post It notes), is impressive and incredibly helpful. Thanks, all is exactly what I was looking for and I look forward to seeing more vids from you!
That's incredibly kind of you mate, thank you very much! I appreciate it :)
The best video I've seen on this subject. Very well done
Thank you so much for the kind words mate!
After watching this, I got a similar setup for my sim rig for GT7, used bit and pieces that I had stashed. I already had a two channel amp, etc, Simhub talks to the PS5 for telemetry.
Sounds great, enjoy your new setup mate :)
How many shakers do you have for ps5 gt7 setup ?
@@juiceman8873 I currently have one on the bottom of the seat bracket, I cant tell which side it is from, I have another one waiting to go under pedal plate. But I can have as many as Simhub will support.
Hi, how do you link it to the ps5 and configure it for gt7? Do you think it can be done for ps4?
@@ELheretik1351 you need to get the iIP number of the ps5 from the ps5 settings, and tell simhub settings to read that. sometimes the ps5's ip number will change. I am sure there's loads of guides on the youtubes already for this.
I actually have all of these components already I just never added them to my rig. Seeing your video and the step by step setup has inspired me though and I'll be working on it this weekend. Thanks for sharing!
Very glad to hear this mate, let me know how it goes!
Hit there,
I am new to iRacing and after seeing your video on Ultimate Practice Guide I decided to subscribe.
I also will be replicating your shakers build, I hope I'll be able to follow this video and make it work. I already use SimHUB for my multiple screens and Dash displays.
Great content.
Excellent info young man, thank you. I bought myself the same mini amp in Red to match my red sim rig seat and two 20W transducers for under my seat only! One underneath and one on the seat back. I already have rumble motors on my V3 Fanatec pedals. Very cost effective solution. Cheers. 👍
Thank you! Enjoy your new setup!!
Thanks
This is huge for me, thank you so much!
Bro this tutorial was amazing. I bought an aura speaker and nobsound amp and mounted under my seat and your tutorial and setting up sim hub was seamless. Now I'm getting 4 tubular frame mounts from Etsy and 2 more amps so I can have 4 wheel feedback.
That sounds sweet, enjoy your new setup!
Top notch tutorial! Made me pull the trigger, and I do not regret it one bit. 👍
Glad you enjoyed it mate!
thanks for the video! I've bought all this and will install it next week, looking forward to checking it out!
Hope you enjoy it!
Just bought this whole setup, coming in today, I'm estatic!
How did it go??
Ah yes the most famous amp + shakers combo. Personally I use a little bigger red Nobsound amp, it is barely more expensive but much stronger, does not overheat this much and lasts longer as my mini fried pretty quick. Also I also used spare vesa plate to mount one of them, happens to allign well. I use one for pedals and one under the seat.
A little addentum, that red Nobsound amp is not all-in-one solution like the mini, I had to connect it to my DAC. Still the output is at least 2 times stronger and there is less hassle involved, I had some grief trying to connect the mini, sometimes it would just not work, it would occasionally lose signal and indeed overheat a lot while this red one is more solid. Granted I didn't use it in months as I broke one of the cables while adjusting my rig and didn't get around to ordering a replacement yet, so can only comment on use over a few months and not a full year. The amp is indeed something worth more consideration, ideally you would want one amp per one shaker to get clear separated signal for which the mini would be a good solution, but it really struggles to drive 2 at the same time. Also do experiment with placement before you fix it in for good, depending on your rig and seat you can get too much of the vibrations absorbed by the seat, or have too much go into the floor disturbing your neighbours. Having one under pedal plate gives nice strong feedback, the one under the seat is much trickier to pull off, good luck!
Hey mate thanks a lot for the valuable feedback! So far so good for me with the mini, but I’ll definitely keep an eye out on the overheating issues you mentioned. I might also try another amp at some point and do a review later on comparing different solutions.
@@LDFR make sure to always turn it off after your session is done, by muting all the dials. I suspect mine burned because I didn't dissconnect it when not in use and it was just on in the background, I often let my pc on during the night so it might have been too much. One day it just stopped working at all!
Yeah as everything gear related in sim racing the job is never trully done, playing with different amp will surely happen, but imo it would be best to just stick to this one for at least couple of months, then after that you will immediately pick up on any differences in your setup. I tend to start changing stuff too soon as I get too hyped and eager and in the end have no clue what I'm doing lol.
Yeah that might be the case! I disconnect my whole rig in between sessions as I don’t want parts to run on idle so hopefully it won’t get as hot 😂 and yeah I’m definitely gonna sit on this setup for a while!
@@LDFR Wise! My rig IS my daily pc setup, with swivel keyboard tray and triples, so I use it every day for normal pc use and gaming, and once I want car mode I switch on all sim dedicated ports on my usb hub and start True Drive. Realistically bass shaker amp and wheelbase are the only bits with their own power cables, so I didn't bother giving those two separate power outlets, but maybe eventually I should. It already requires fiddling depending if I want triples or vr as with only 3 display ports avaiable can't have both ; - / so having to flip extra switch woudn't change much.
this is the best explanation i have found on this topic on youtube. very understandable and clearly explained. really great work. thank you for the effort you have made
I'm glad mate!
Thank you, so much for taking the time to put together such a detailed video on this subject and making it so much easier for this community. I cannot wait to receive my stuff so I can hook this up. Sincerely, Richard
Thanks Richard!
Thanks friend, I followed the instructions exactly and everything worked very well, great immersion
@@odosimracing glad to hear that mate, enjoy it!
Well Done Friend i am getting going on my sim rig upgrades this year and found this very useful well thought out and very in depth how to setup thank you much hopefully i can get streaming my racing rig soon enough. Keep Doing what your doing friend !
Cheers mate thanks for the kind words!
I recommend using the Fosi Audio BT30D-S amp over this one which is budget also. It is a little more dedicated to making a bass shaker setup, having normal left/right but also has a 3rd (Sub output). Sub for the seat, left and right for brake and throttle. a few more dials for manual settings as you drive. that helps when messing with diff tracks. Sebring is no Spa in comfort.
Dude thank you so much. You were so detailed in your explanation. Im planning to order these to add to my set up. I would to feel more emersion. Saving your video.
Glad I could help!
This video is amazing, concise, and got me running with my setup. Looking forward to watching your Part 3 latest setting after ripping some laps! Thanks, dude!
You’re welcome buddy, glad it helped 😊
Thanks for sharing your settings file and the details. Hard to find a good detailed video these days.
You're welcome Wilson, I am glad you found this useful!
Thanks man, just ordered this exact setup and spent the entire day looking for someone to show how to do these wires. I'm not an audio guy so I'm lost if it's not a standard connector I'm used to from regular audio stuff.
You're welcome!
This is genius! Thanks for explaining how to set this up. I can't wait to get a cockpit!
No problem mate - it really is super immersive! Hook it up once you've got your cockpit!
My god this guy helped me so much I can't thank him enough.
Thanks for the tutorial. I ordered a 35W shaker for the front and a 50W for the rear. As amp I‘ve chosen the red Nobsound 2x 100W. I need to pay attention to not set the shakers to 100% in simhub like you did. At the moment I only play RaceRoom but I have a code for 3months iRacing. Maybe I give it a try.
Edit: the shakers are Dayton Audio BST-2 and AuraSound AST-2B-4.
That sounds like a great setup mate! Good luck setting it up!
Any link to the red nobsound thank you
I had great results using this mount instructions guide video on using the VESA mount for the rear BST-1, attached under the Sim Labs GT1-Evo (2020 version) extrusion that the seat is attached to, and the front BST-1 direct mounted to the pedal tray underside (which has built in felt type material on the entire surface to help with direct mount to metal). My rear with VESA plate under the seat vibrations are at least twice as strong as the front are under the GT1-Evo 2020 pedal tray. The custom channels mapping in Simhub is set to 100% for both front and rear, and I'm hiding his custom channels profile imported. My GT1-Evo is the newer revised 2020 version that is 500mm total width overall, up from 480mm I believe, and has a beefier pedal tray (that does appear to have different screw hole locations than the original GT1-EVO pedal plate as well it seems). This can be made to work in the custom channels section of Simhub, since there you can define the front and the rear overall channel volume, like to set the rear to be 60% overall volume slider versus 100% on the front (to compensate for that front versus rear strength difference). My amp is similar to the one mentioned in the guide, a Douk Audio (Tone model), and is the same wattage 50 x 2 channels, and the front and rear BST-1's are connected to that single DAC amp, that acts as a sound card and amp. The result is quite good! I also had tried to mount my BST-1 directly to the back of my seat but it is pretty hefty and eventually the tape I was using list its strength, and it wasn't secure which doesn't help at all. The VESA plate mount solution is great, and is very solid, but for me I noticed about 30 mins trying to attach the same exact dimensions plate to the GT1-EVO 2020 version, that it wasn't going to be able to screw in on both sides. I needed to shorten the width distance for the extrusion pieces that run under the seat for it to be able to attach the VESA plate to both sides, from how I originally had the two extrusion pieces mounted. Once the two pieces were moved closer together by about 2" on both sides of the rig (that was the narrowest that my seat rails could support to be able to mount the seat to the excursions in fact) the plate fit fine, but I should have removed the seat and trying to screw it in upside down was a chore, to get it in the t-nuts. I also hadn't realized the BST-1 could mount directly under the pedal plate in the center even, Overall very happy with his GT1-EVO bass shaker guide method! Thank you! Note: I had very good luck with "4 Pack of Anti Vibration Pads 4" x 4" x 7/8" Rubber/Cork Vibration isolation pads" that can be had on most big online stores, placed under the standard rubber feet; if you don't want to go with the method he used near the end of this video, for the two products he used. The rubber and cork pads work really well and are about $15 USD for 4.
Just bought both of these and your video is really helpful in setting them up correctly.
Awesome Igor, let me know how it goes!
@@LDFR it's awesome. My whole rig now hs FFB, not just the wheel.
Most informative video I’ve seen in quite some time. I feel very comfortable pulling the trigger on this purchase now. Thanks!
Thank you! Enjoy it mate.
Sorry, a bit late to your video but only recently decided to add shakers to my rig. Great vid, probably the best i have seen, thank you.
You are welcome mate and thank you so much for watching and supporting!
Just got 2 Dayton TT25 for my pedals. Very good information to set up. Thanks.
Great tutorial. Will use this as my reference for my setup when I get to the installation.
Thank you!
Hey thanks for this! I've already got a buttkicker & just bought a Trakracer TR8 Pro as well as the same DA Transducer & amp.
I'm hoping I can mount the DA Transducer under the seat using the VGA mount, but not 100% sure yet.
This has been the best in-depth & well explained vid I've seen so far, so I appreciate what you've done :)
Thank you so much TJ! Good luck with the mounting!
very simple,and wow what a change.thank you.
I’m glad you found it helpful mate!
Really good job putting this together, will probably replicate this on my rig
Cheers mate!
Slip Angle sells everything you need in one kit for $499 (usd) LOL! Great to see DIY is still alive in sim racing
True! I do like the springs in that kit - but it is indeed overpriced. I guess you pay for the time that guy took to research everything and put it all together - which some people aren't bothered to do 😂
4:20 you don't need to drill holes in your seat. your seat is already bolted to the rails with i guess 4 or 6 bolts. if you drill the distances of these bolts into a accordingly sized plate, you can mount it between the rails and the seat. my only fear is the rail. any ratling compenent in there? Do you get any ratling noises when the plate is fixed under the alu profiles? anyway gonna try this awesome project. thumbs up
Great point Tom! I don't get rattling sounds, unless washers or bolts used in this setup come loose. I also used felt tape between the bass shaker mount and the aluminium rig for that specific purpose :)
Thank you this helps, if you run the audio cables through the hole on top of the nut, it looks a little cleaner imo.
Perfectly explained. this is what I was looking for. 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
I'll say thank you now. I just ordered the stuff with the 4 smaller pucks today, it will be here in 3 days!
Has anyone tried putting one on the wheel base itself? It seems to me I get a lot of the vibration through my wheel in a real car. Not just torque in the wheel but the front suspensions vibrations out of the plane of the wheel.
Hi John, thanks! Good luck with the setup process!
I’ve done a lot of research and never really saw anyone stick one under their wheelbase mount, but I’m sure that it could be a cool thing! After all, to each their own!
one thing to note even though the nobsound amp is 100 watts it only comes with a 60 watt psu. so you could $15 per shacker by going with the 35 watt bst 2. as you cant use the full power unless you buy a 100 watt psu wich at that point you woulld be better off just buying aamp that can take the heat of 100 watts better. i say this even though i bought 2 bst-1 and a nobsound amp knowing this.
Hey mate, thanks for this comment as this is useful information! I was aware of this, and still decided to go ahead and try it with the stock PSU. As I’m currently getting more than enough power for my liking, I’m happy with it! But indeed to use the full power the upgraded psu from their website is the answer.
Thanks for this tremendous video. Can’t beat the price, and it looks like a fun project to add more immersion to my rig. 🔥
Cheers mate I really appreciate the kind words! I’m a couple of weeks in with this setup and still enjoying it a ton!
@@LDFR glad you think outside the box. Helps a ton of people. Cheers!
Hec yeah this is a really good help, think I'l be getting this done now. Thank you for the share great work sir.
Thank you and enjoy it!
Thank you for this video i am currently building a sim rig out of wood and this helps a lot for my immersion! keep up great vids I subbed and saved!
Glad it helped mate, and thank you for the support!
brilliant video. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!!
Thanks Robert :)
Any idea which amplyfier I should get if I want more Tranceducers? I want to put two on my seat and one big or two small ones on my pedals.
Hey Paddy, I’m not sure - I’d look for an amp with 3 or 4 channels (the Nobsound mini only has 2). Or you could get multiple Nobsound minis
You know man after watching this video I was excited to pursue this concept as I've already done some DIY stuff in sim but after checking the reviews for the vibration pads I really didn't come away with a good feeling about it. Seemed like a lot of these things seem to conk out after not much time. I'm considering just buying pre-packaged gear and calling it done. Probably get an extended warranty on it too since they seem to use the same questionable reliability components.
Great video I was looking for something like this cause I'm doing this same thing next week.
Awesome! How did it go?
@@LDFR It's amazing, but some of the settings can be a little overwhelming. I'm trying to figure out which ones I need and which ones just cause too much interference.
Thanks for the walk through. One suggestion though. I was watching via a mobile phone. Foe this kind of viewer you might want to zoom in on the app setup. I will watch again later for sure but was watching at work on my dinner. It was hard to see exactly what you was doing. :)
Thanks for the feedback I'll keep that in mind for next time!
I have a date and audio and an amp on the way looking forward to the experience and if I want to add another few
Bloody brilliant info thanks mate.
You’re welcome mate :)
Amazing video. I had ordered a Buttkicker Pro and quickly canceled the order because of your video! Quick question: At 18:02, in your simhub setup, under road vibration, I see a Front left setting and a front right, as well as rear left and rear right. However, earlier in the video, under other settings, they are marked as ALL. That part is confusing. Any additional insights?
Thanks so much mate. I just build your setup and it's sooooo good :)
Hey Mick, I'm super happy that it worked out well for you! Enjoy!
Try to not run run shakers to max, this amp will work but a stronger amp would get you better and more reliable results. I think 2 of those shakers should be fine for that amp, I just wouldn't run it too high haha.
I have the same amp but only with 2 pucks and a shaker. It's still working pretty good and doesn't get hot. Might upgrade to a stronger amp soon.
Hey mate thanks a lot for the tips! That sounds like a great set up by the way!
I had the buttkicker gamer 2 which worked good, other than going out when it would get too hot. A fun mostly fixed that. I tried the same setup with the same transducers and the same amp, but both transducers blew after around 6 months. I am thinking it needs a low pass filter, because I hear too many mid range and high range sounds coming through the transducers. So now I am thinking of getting a buttkicker gamer pro.
Hey Mark, thanks for the info! I’ll definitely keep an eye out for the longevity of the transducers
Great video! really appreciate the effort put into it! Well done, I'll let you know how i go with my setup.
Thanks James, good luck with it and enjoy!
Great video you did a very good job explaining it all. It would have been nice to have source links. But that’s just me being lazy
You're welcome! Links to almost everything I used are in the description!
Thank you ! I will try out this setup on my rig ;0)
Sounds great Allan, let me know how it goes!
Buddy you nailed it amazing content keep up the good work buddy 💪
Thanks mate much appreciated :)
Thank you for this Video. This helps me a lot. I will try the same as you have.
Good luck, let me know how it goes!
@@LDFR Hello, i have used aura instead of the diatone and i have not them same rig as you have ( i have a sturdy wooden rig).I used your profile and had to adjust the volume for the vibrations on my rig.
It is working really well, i love it. Now i have to fine tune it a little bit.
Thank you so much for your guide! You did a great job and helped us a lot!!!!
Thanks a lot for this video bud. I really don't want to drill holes into my new bucket seat either so I'm wondering if there's some sort of double side strong tape to attach it under the seat or the back, also under the pedal location too.
Hi mate! It’s not impossible, but I read some inconsistent stories about this - it worked fine for some, and it didn’t work for others. The bass shaker is relatively heavy and you’ll need very strong tape, that’s for sure!
Hi friend i really enjoyed listening to you explain the bass shaker settings. I really want to try your settings but I m still new at this and don't know much about TH-cam. Please how can I download your settings.
What is the link to your channel.
Thanks.
I'm one of your subscribers.
Hey mate, you can download my channel map from the description of the video. You then have to import it in SimHub - see how to do that in the video! My settings for the effects are in the video description :)
Great video! It's making me want to try it!
Thanks Rachel! :)
Thank you. Could you explain how to do it with 4 Bass shakersalso?
It's the same principle, but you need 2 amps! I'm sure there's lots of videos out there showing this!
Can you do a video w audio on the shaker while you play? I'm worried about it being too loud
Yes please 👍
Hey! You inspired me to do a part II as to be fair I didn’t cover noise and isolation in this guide - because when I made it I still hadn’t had the issues with noise - they came later. I’ll do that video as soon as I can.
Long story short, the transducers themselves are not that noisy at all, not at the settings I run them at. However, the issue for me was vibration noise: the vibrations traveled into the floor and could be heard loudly in other rooms in my apartment. I fixed it completely by isolating the rig from the floor using rubber feet AND vibration dampening rubber pads (18mm thick) underneath each foot.
Ill make part II showing this asap.
@@LDFR Do you have an ETA on that part II video?
@@22Uzbekistan hey mate I’ll start filming it today and will be done most likely tomorrow!
@@22Uzbekistan here it is mate: th-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/w-d-xo.html
Great tutorial video! Do you think if adding one more amplifier so you can have 4 transducers, will be too overwhelming. The ideia was to have one at each corner of the rig. Cheers.
Hey! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR Thanks for your reply. That makes sense actually. The vibrations together with the sound with dual or multi channel will make you distinguish where everything is coming from.
Thank you so much for this video, dude!
One thing I am stuck on though:
What do I do if the "USB 2.0 Device" doesn't show up in the list of "sound output" options?
You're welcome! And that's a good question, unfortunately it's not something I've experienced myself. Are you using a powered USB hub (like connected to an electricity outlet)? If not, that might be an issue. Also, are you plugging it in a USB 2.0 port? You might have this issue if you're connecting it to a USB 3.0 port. Those are the low hanging fruit solutions, but if the problem persists there might be more that can be done to try and fix this
Great tutorial , Can you explain how you are able to run a game and Simhub together at the same time so I can tune Live while in -game. I am able to use Simhub to adjust but the game Automobilista 1 (running in windowed mode) stops when I try to adjust any effects.
Hey mate thank you! I must admit, I have no method for that - I just have them both running at the same time. Sounds like that might be an issue with automobilista. Does it crash if you open other sims while sim hub is open?
Great Video. Thank you for that. I wonder if a Bass Shaker with fewer watts would be better, as you mentioned that all the volumes are less than 20-15. That means the 50W Bass Shaker are way too much for the job. What do you think?
Good question - I believe that power per se isn't the only factor, but one also needs to consider the extra detail you can get from having a bass shaker with a broader frequency spectrum. Not sure that bass shakers with lower wattage offer the same level of detail?
Amazingly clear and well done video. Would it help to have bass shaker in every corner of the car? I think front/rear is enough, but what are your opinions?
Hey, thank you for the kind words! That’s definitely something you can do if you want a 4 channel set up! If you map it correctly it shouldn’t be overwhelming. The only reason why I did not go for a 4 or 5 channel setup is because I read that you cannot distinctly feel the difference between front left and front right or rear left and rear right. Also, when I drive over a curb on the right or left, even with one bass shaker in the middle my brain actually tricks me to feel the vibrations coming from a specific side! I feel that makes the 4 channel set up a bit redundant. But that’s just my opinion!
@@LDFR This is an interesting take on it. I heard that if the shakers "spin" in the same direction, they cancel each other out. These shakers don't work like that I think? There is also a system that has shakers in every corner but the rig is on springs, so you can feel low and high frequencies better.
The fact that this system tricks the brain so well is a testament of it working well though, I think I would be fine with this.
@@TheStobe84 I am familiar with the sprint system that you mentioned, it looks really cool! My advice would be to go with a 2 channel set up first, and then if you are still not satisfied you can try 4!
Probably could have made it a 10 min video, but appreciate you taking your time to make this😊
Thanks mate :)
Love your video! Is there a Nobsound 4 channel so I can adjust things a bit more and add more shakers? thanks
I'm not sure! Otherwise, you need 2!
Great video! Would it be possible to buy two sets of these and fit it to the corners of the rig, to simulate the wheels?
Since the amplifier only has two channels. Maybe it's possible to buy one with four channels?
Thank you for the video. It was very informative.
Definitely possible yes!
This is an excellent, very detailed, step-by-step video. Great job. I have been thinking of getting a Buttkicker Gamer Plus or doing a DIY setup like this. I have a DIY (wood - MDF) with a car seat and heavy duty wheel casters rig that I use for driving games (Dirt Rally 2, ATS, ETS, Wreckfest) and flight sims (DCS World, IL2). I have rudder pedals as well, so there would be no option to mount them at the front. Would only one of these BST-1 shakers be equivalent to the Buttkicker, or would I need 2?
The Buttkicker Gamer Plus is $399 CAD. It's 75W - 250W max, with a 5-200MHz frequency response. That seems to be quite a bit better than the 50W and 10 - 80 MHz that the BST-1 outputs? Or am I reading that wrong? Everything you list in this video would cost me close to $400 CAD as the BST-1 alone is $92, that's why I'm asking if you could get away with just one. Otherwise it probably makes more sense to just get the Buttkicker.
Hi Karl, thanks for the kind words mate! Indeed, the buttkicker is more powerful than the BST1, as you’ve already mentioned - you read that right. Now, I’ve never used a buttkicker so I cannot tell for sure, but I personally never use my BST1 anywhere near the maximum power setting. So I wonder whether all that power (of the buttkicker) is needed in the first place. With so many people using BST1s, something tells me that it might be sufficient power!
But I would definitely recommend doing some more research, there might be videos out there comparing the 2 directly!
Super interesting video ! I am wondering what's the difference betweem a Buttkicker and your solution in term of feeling. Is your solution exactly the same for a better price ? Or Buttkicker offer more sensation ? Someone as feedback comparing these both solution ?
Thanks Guillaume! That’s a good question - and honestly I don’t know the exact answer to that. I think that detail comes down to frequency range, and I think that the Buttkicker’s is wider. But I’m not sure. In general, given that so many recommend these DIY solutions when talking about buttkicker, my assumption is that not a lot of performance is left behind when opting for this
Beautiful video thanks you!!
You are welcome, glad you found it useful :)
Very nicely done and explained 👏 👍 👌 😀
Thanks a lot 😊
I have this question, I live in an apartment, how noisy is it? I plan to put three.
Hey mate, I made a video on this, check it out! I show you how loud they are on 3 different power levels, and also show you how to insulate it from the floor so that you don’t get vibration noise throughout the house th-cam.com/video/G22GTkWDjU0/w-d-xo.html
Within SimHub, you set priority on gear shift and wheel slip. Do you notice them fighting each other for priority? I’m guessing SimHub doesn’t have an order of priority but I’m not sure. I would imagine you would want to feel wheel slip over a gear shift. Thank you in advance!!
You're right - best to set one of the two to priority. I actually removed priorities as I was not enjoying having a single effect taking over (it ruined the immersion a bit) but this is entirely up you! The settings I use in this video are a bit old - check out the description for my latest settings on SimHub, and check out Part 3 (see pinned comment) to see how I use SimHub and LFE together currently!
great video thank you, just setup mine like yours!
You’re welcome mate :)
Awesome video and Im about to begin building your exact build. Shouldn't it be M4 x 20mm however?
Hey Brendan thanks a lot mate! I just double checked and you’re right - I made a mistake in the video. I’ll amend the description - thanks for flagging this!
This was great.
Thank you Philippe 🙏🏻
Very useful video! I’m doing this
Good luck with the build and enjoy it!
Great video! This convinced me to do this as my next upgrade! As you know, once you start building, it never stops.. 😅🤣
Also subbed as I really liked the style of content and hope to see you do more!
That’s very kind of you mate, thank you and welcome!
Thanks for taking the time & effort to provide this information.
Does the Vesa bracket just happen to match your seat mount spacing or have you made adaptions in some way?
You’re welcome! The VESA bracket matched my setup with a Sparco R100 seat perfectly. I think this probably will match most seats. If you want I can measure the distance between left and right side bolts?
I've just received a 400x200 Vesa mount, ally profile cockpit & seat due to arrive shortly, will see how they match up. Thanks again for the info.
Thanks for the video mate, I will check your profile out for sure, I have exactly same setup as yours. keep up the good work
Thanks a lot Horacio, I appreciate it mate! Welcome!
A question. Should bass shakers be mounted on a flat surface or on a surface with holes to allow air to escape? Thank you.
I think the best way to go is having the whole base of the shaker in contact with the mounting surface!
Thank you very much for the great video. how did you make the sound settings in iRacing. the nobsound is a second sound card. what is the defold and how did you set the Lfe. iRacing crashes for me when I turn on simhub and nobsound. it always seems to crash when an effect comes on or the spotter speaks. Maybe I have a conflict with the sound cards
Check my SimHub vs. LFE video for the answer to this - I explain it all there :)
Excellent video
Thank you!
Hi, big fan of your videos....do you think with the same setup you have I can get away with the 35watt counterpart that cost almost have???or it won't be powerful enough??
Hi Joel, thank you! Regarding the 35watt shakers, power won't be an issue, but the BST-1's do have a better frequency range and I think the effects will feel nicer. That's what I've read!
I have a dayton 300ex with fosi v3 amp and if i turn the volume knob at 100 on the amp, it stops working… i have to set it to like 80% !
Maybe it's overheating?
Does it make a difference if an amplifier says it’s made for a subwoofer or not when it comes to these bass shakers? I want to run 2 BST-1’s so I wanted to know if the Fosi Audio TB10A would be a good choice since I’m plugging it into my receiver in the subwoofer port anyway.
Hi there, I am not 100% sure if it’s an issue, but I do not think so! I have seen a lot of users go for the Fosi instead of the Nobsound. Not sure if the same model as yours though. I could find a lot of information on Reddit about amp alternatives, maybe give that a quick check!
Hello, great video and install idea. I followed your instructions and it turned out well. Not as much vibration under the seat, but the pedals are great. Question: I no longer have audio for my headphones. I use headphones and mic for iRacing and can’t figure out how to solve. Also, sound is now playing through PC. Would like to turn off. Any help?
Hi Kris, I’m glad it worked! Bear in mind my settings are sort of conservative so by all means turn up the power of you want to get more of those vibrations coming from the back! Regarding the sound issue, I think this is solvable through the windows sound settings. Try to set your headphone as the default sound playing device and it should work! You only need the Nobsound (USB 2.0 Device) to be selected as the audio device within SimHub. I hope this helps!
I use Voicemeeter Banana to control all my sound devices. On channel 1 I switch between external speakers or headphones - depending on how I am playing. Channel 2 is for the buttkicker. Channel 3 is for VR. With voicemeeter, you can control the volume for each sound device separately. I also have the 32 band Equalizer APO installed. That makes the sound of each device sound soooo much better.
@@markp2085 Thank you for the tip. I have since resolved my sound problem but I will download Voicemeeter to equalize all the sound. BTW, do you leave your Nobsound soundcard on all the time? I turn mine on and off as needed. Sometimes it doesn't pick up when I turn back on. Just wondering. Thanks again.
@@krisscheussler2403 For my racing sim, I turn it on when I am playing and turn it off otherwise. I have another one though that I keep on all the time. That one is attached to a transducer on my desk chair, so I have it on all the time. I am a blogger, and I jam music while I am writing. Its nice to be able to feel the music. I don't use the built in sound card on the amps. I have the amps connected to a 7.1 usb sound card. I can connect 4 amps to it for a total of 8 transducers if I wanted. I only have three transducers, one on my office chair and two on my racing cockpit.
I actually wanted to order all the parts right away, but I just realized that there are sound problems when you use headphones. I use it with my VR glasses, so I'll probably have the same problem. Can someone explain to me how to set this up under Windows 10?
Mate his is amazing tutorial. Can you get more channel amp?😊
Thank you! You can definitely use an amp with more channels, or use 2 amps!