My 1978 truck still has drum breaks all around, and i was wondering if it matters what type of conversion kit i use to convert my front breaks to disc, and if it is worthit to convert it? Thanks.
I’m not familiar with any of the kits out there. In my mind it would depend on how much driving you intend to do. For a daily driver I’d definitely convert the front. For occasion use it may not be worth the price. 🤷🏼♂️ Maybe other viewers can comment with more advice.
Nice, thanks for making the vedio. It is educational. I am also restoring my 1979 Ford F250. But mine has only has 6 cylinder. The chalenging for me in restoring old classing pick up are limited resorces like parts and funds. God bless and be safe.
Very cool. Unless you plan to do burnouts there’s nothing wrong with a 6 cyl. Glad my vids are helpful. More coming all the time. Just slow because of lack of time and money. 💰🤷🏼♂️
On bleeding the brakes, mighty vac makes a vacuum pump that has a catch cup and some tubes that will allow you to draw the brake fluid down. On the new wheel bearings, you really need to tighten that nut down to “seat” the bearings in the cups. Then back off, then (on new bearings) add a slight preload, less than 10ft lbs.This is because the new bearings will break in and you’ll be at exactly zero end play. If you are installing used bearings with just a repack, no preload just set back to zero end play. Great video. Looking forward to seeing y’all drive it!!!
Put a small rubber hose on the nipple on the caliper. Leave the valve open and put the other end of the hose in a cup that has brake fluid in it. Then pump the brakes. Every time that you pump, you get fluid and air out of the line, but when you let up on the brake pedal, it will suck brake fluid from the cup back in to the line. Keep filling the master cylinder if it goes down. Making bleeding brakes much easier, and you don't need two people, which is a bonus.
Not sure if someone said this already, and I’m a little late. But to bleed new brake lines open the bleeder screw on the caliper and wait until fluid starts to come out. And then you can start to do the pumping to help get the rest of the air out. It sure saves me a lot of time. Also while bleeding brakes I’ve been told it’s best to start with the caliper/cylinder that’s furthest away from the reservoir and work up to the closest. (Passenger rear- driver rear- passenger front- driver front). Not sure if that actually makes a difference, but I’ve always done it that way.
Very time consuming and expensive project. We have a LOT going on in our personal lives so this seems to take a back seat. We love this truck and enjoy sharing this journey with our viewers! Thanks for the ongoing support! We've made some real good progress since this recording!
@@troysgarage glad to hear it! Family comes first and I'm glad you and your family has that mentality! I appreciate all the tips and tricks you guys are doing as I am also in the process of getting a 78 F-250 onto the road! I hope you enjoy the rest of your summer and hopefully we see the ol girl drive on her own soon! Take care and God Bless
For 1 man or quick brake bleeding: get clear tubing that can fit over your bleeder valve and tighten with a zip tie. drill a hole in the top of a bottle wide enough to feed the tube through. Fill the bottle half way with fluid and cap. start farthest wheel away working around counter clockwise with drivers side front last. pump the brakes a few times before opening the bleed valve to allow fluid to fill the tubing once cracked. Then you can pump away with the valve open.
Excellent video with a lot of knowledge packed in there. Thank you for taking the time to make it! I'm rebuilding the brakes on a 1976 F-150 and this is perfect.
Thanks for the feedback. My editing and filming skills are improving. My goal has always been to educate first and entertain second. Harder to do than it sounds. 😜🤷🏼♂️
Always bleed furthest from master first and go in order from furthest to closest. So right rear, left rear, right front, right rear. Also a vacuum bleeder works wonders.
I'm realizing watching this that yours isn't a 4x4 unless I missed something. I'm probably going to have to watch another video on hub replacement and stuff on mine. I have locking hubs which are an ABSOLUTE pain in the ass to unlock when it's taken out of 4 wheel. I want to clean that up and replace those hubs.
@@troysgarage of course I'll come back. I'm intrigued to see the final result. I'm planning on doing a lot of stuff that doesn't require me to take the engine out as I don't have a garage to work in and this has been super helpful.
Those two items you pulled of the front of the truck are called Disc brake dust shields. You painted them red. They are only found on four wheel drive fords. Two Wheel drive do not have them. The caliper hardware kit is $20. Replaced all the old stuff especially that dust cap. Not too expensive.
Strange because this is a 2WD and as far as I can remember these were on it in 1999 when I did brakes on it then as well. Seems odd? Maybe the factory this was built in put them on the Ranger model during this time frame. I dunno!
What's the socket size that you used for the spindle nut? I was trying to check out your parts list but didn't see a socket listed that was that big. Thank you.
I couldn’t remember so I pulled out my Haynes Manual. It doesn’t mention the size either. 🤷🏼♂️ If I remember right I used a large adjustable wrench for that. Used my torque elbow to set it “just right”. I watched my grandpa repack bearings all the time and never once used a torque wrench. Nothing he put together ever fell apart or was damaged. It all worked for years with a ton of use/abuse. I’ve just adopted that same method. Lots of viewers lose their minds over that. 😅
Booster and master came from rockauto.com. The charge a core fee that they refund when you ship back your old ones. You can leave them connected to each other.
Probably because this is the Ranger model (just venturing a guess 🤷🏼♂️)? I’ll remember that if we ever need to do brakes on this guy again. Also taking notes for my 66 F250 (see a more recent video for that one - can’t wait to get started on that guy!!!)
Yes, but..... that’s a LONG way down the road! Likely prime it all so it’s one color for now. Maybe do a DIY at home kind of paint job just to save it from further rust, then eventually do it “right”, instead of cheap. 🤷🏼♂️💵🤦🏼♂️
DIY Home and Auto M113A3 is the Armored Personnel Carrier I first went to war in; 5 road wheels, a drive wheel and idler wheel per side. A bearing job was an all day affair during annual services.
On my 73 F100 I note a rattle going over bumps from the front but if I hold some pressure on the brake pedal there is no rattle. Is that likely to be that bowed piece on the "key" and does it come as part of a kit with new rotors.
You dont use the race to pack the bearings. In fact I wouldnt use them at all. And when bleeding the master, you need plastic hoses to run up so that it doesn't suck more air back in
Again showing your ignorance! Those are family names, we are Irish. But you are too all about yourself to understand anything outside your tiny circle of influence! Troll elsewhere keyboard warrior!!!! 🙌🏼
My 1978 truck still has drum breaks all around, and i was wondering if it matters what type of conversion kit i use to convert my front breaks to disc, and if it is worthit to convert it? Thanks.
I’m not familiar with any of the kits out there. In my mind it would depend on how much driving you intend to do. For a daily driver I’d definitely convert the front. For occasion use it may not be worth the price. 🤷🏼♂️ Maybe other viewers can comment with more advice.
I got a 79 f150 Styleside truck. Yes there are kits out there to convert from disc/drum to disc all the way around.
Replace everything including the dust cap and all brake accessories
To bad there aren't more dads like this in the world.
Thanks man! Runs in my family so I know my boys will be awesome too! I am blessed with amazing roots and branches in the family tree!
@@troysgarage That's fantastic. Thanks for the informative videos and Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thank for the video I’m 14 and going to get a 70s ford and I like see the videos of how to restore it
That’s so cool. Let us all know what you end up getting. 🙌🏼
Glad I found this! I have to do the same on my '73 F250. I'll be watching the whole series on your '79 F250.
Nice, thanks for making the vedio. It is educational. I am also restoring my 1979 Ford F250. But mine has only has 6 cylinder. The chalenging for me in restoring old classing pick up are limited resorces like parts and funds. God bless and be safe.
Very cool. Unless you plan to do burnouts there’s nothing wrong with a 6 cyl. Glad my vids are helpful. More coming all the time. Just slow because of lack of time and money. 💰🤷🏼♂️
Thank you so much for the great ideas I am restoring my 1977 Ford f100 custom. they will help alot keep up the great work
Glad to help. This is a fun project. Got to drive her the other day! You’ll see that coming up soon. 😱🕺🏼
@@troysgarage what was the issue with the wheels locking up during the test drive?
Emergency brake cable was stuck. I guess I forgot to mention that in any of the follow up videos.
@@troysgarage
Keep the videos coming 🤙
On bleeding the brakes, mighty vac makes a vacuum pump that has a catch cup and some tubes that will allow you to draw the brake fluid down. On the new wheel bearings, you really need to tighten that nut down to “seat” the bearings in the cups. Then back off, then (on new bearings) add a slight preload, less than 10ft lbs.This is because the new bearings will break in and you’ll be at exactly zero end play. If you are installing used bearings with just a repack, no preload just set back to zero end play. Great video. Looking forward to seeing y’all drive it!!!
We can't wait to get this on the road too. We still have a long way to go!
This was a very helpful video - thank you!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Put a small rubber hose on the nipple on the caliper. Leave the valve open and put the other end of the hose in a cup that has brake fluid in it. Then pump the brakes. Every time that you pump, you get fluid and air out of the line, but when you let up on the brake pedal, it will suck brake fluid from the cup back in to the line. Keep filling the master cylinder if it goes down. Making bleeding brakes much easier, and you don't need two people, which is a bonus.
Great tip! Thanks. 🙌🏼
Not sure if someone said this already, and I’m a little late. But to bleed new brake lines open the bleeder screw on the caliper and wait until fluid starts to come out. And then you can start to do the pumping to help get the rest of the air out. It sure saves me a lot of time. Also while bleeding brakes I’ve been told it’s best to start with the caliper/cylinder that’s furthest away from the reservoir and work up to the closest. (Passenger rear- driver rear- passenger front- driver front). Not sure if that actually makes a difference, but I’ve always done it that way.
“Pro Tip” - thanks for sharing your expertise.
That video was very well done, keep up the amazing work and I cant wait to see you get this thing up and street legal again. :)
Great to see another video from you guys! Glad you're back! Seems to be going smoothly! Happy for you guys
Very time consuming and expensive project. We have a LOT going on in our personal lives so this seems to take a back seat. We love this truck and enjoy sharing this journey with our viewers! Thanks for the ongoing support! We've made some real good progress since this recording!
@@troysgarage glad to hear it! Family comes first and I'm glad you and your family has that mentality! I appreciate all the tips and tricks you guys are doing as I am also in the process of getting a 78 F-250 onto the road! I hope you enjoy the rest of your summer and hopefully we see the ol girl drive on her own soon! Take care and God Bless
You are amazing! Great work! ❤️
For 1 man or quick brake bleeding: get clear tubing that can fit over your bleeder valve and tighten with a zip tie. drill a hole in the top of a bottle wide enough to feed the tube through. Fill the bottle half way with fluid and cap. start farthest wheel away working around counter clockwise with drivers side front last. pump the brakes a few times before opening the bleed valve to allow fluid to fill the tubing once cracked. Then you can pump away with the valve open.
Great tip! Thanks
Always use a new cotter pin (I couldn’t tell if you did.) Love the series sent with love.
Excellent video with a lot of knowledge packed in there. Thank you for taking the time to make it! I'm rebuilding the brakes on a 1976 F-150 and this is perfect.
So glad to help! Hope yours goes smoothly! 👍🏼
Best video out there, thank you.
Thanks for the feedback. My editing and filming skills are improving. My goal has always been to educate first and entertain second. Harder to do than it sounds. 😜🤷🏼♂️
you seem to be a good and thoughtful Dad
Thanks! I hope one day he’ll appreciate everything I’ve done for him!
Always bleed furthest from master first and go in order from furthest to closest. So right rear, left rear, right front, right rear. Also a vacuum bleeder works wonders.
excellent video
Thanks that means a lot! 🙌
I'm realizing watching this that yours isn't a 4x4 unless I missed something. I'm probably going to have to watch another video on hub replacement and stuff on mine. I have locking hubs which are an ABSOLUTE pain in the ass to unlock when it's taken out of 4 wheel. I want to clean that up and replace those hubs.
Correct, ours is 2wd. I’m not offended if watch other channels too! 😜 Just remember who your favorite is and come back soon. 🤣🙌🏼🕺🏼
@@troysgarage of course I'll come back. I'm intrigued to see the final result. I'm planning on doing a lot of stuff that doesn't require me to take the engine out as I don't have a garage to work in and this has been super helpful.
Was that the amazing and wonderful youtuber PCGoblin in the background????
It is. Luckily he’s a good friend of mine.
@@troysgarage Oh good. ;)
Those two items you pulled of the front of the truck are called Disc brake dust shields. You painted them red. They are only found on four wheel drive fords. Two Wheel drive do not have them. The caliper hardware kit is $20. Replaced all the old stuff especially that dust cap. Not too expensive.
Strange because this is a 2WD and as far as I can remember these were on it in 1999 when I did brakes on it then as well. Seems odd? Maybe the factory this was built in put them on the Ranger model during this time frame. I dunno!
What I've seen is to torque it to 30ft lbs then back it off and hand tighten like you did. the torque seats the bearings properly.
Good so I didn't screw it up too badly! LOL
@@troysgarage Well you did it 4 years ago so you would know by now if you did.
I've heard that if you open the bleedersall the way around and let gravity draw brake fluid through, it reduces bleeding time.
That would have been nice to know! I’ll remember that when I start on my 66 F250 this summer! What for those videos coming soon!
Ooo. Cant wait!!!
What's the socket size that you used for the spindle nut? I was trying to check out your parts list but didn't see a socket listed that was that big. Thank you.
I couldn’t remember so I pulled out my Haynes Manual. It doesn’t mention the size either. 🤷🏼♂️ If I remember right I used a large adjustable wrench for that. Used my torque elbow to set it “just right”. I watched my grandpa repack bearings all the time and never once used a torque wrench. Nothing he put together ever fell apart or was damaged. It all worked for years with a ton of use/abuse. I’ve just adopted that same method. Lots of viewers lose their minds over that. 😅
Sorry, I can’t tell what you’re using to hammer in the wheel bearings. Is that a large socket? Or specialty tool? Thank you.
Nevermind lol. Heard you say a ball joint press the second time around.
It’s a large socket. Just make sure you are hitting the race and not marring up any of the surfaces. Take it slow and steady and you’ll be fine. 👍🏼
I’ve been looking for the brake booster and master cylinder you guys used on your truck. I really need the two for mine if you would like to share. 😁
Booster and master came from rockauto.com. The charge a core fee that they refund when you ship back your old ones. You can leave them connected to each other.
DIY Home and Auto Thank you very much this has been one of the only things keeping it off the road. Hopefully we will be rolling again!
Glad to help! Love seeing these dentsides rolling! 🕺🏼👍🏼
Those front calipers can be upgraded to dual pistons , all the f250's I have had are dual pistons never seen single
Probably because this is the Ranger model (just venturing a guess 🤷🏼♂️)? I’ll remember that if we ever need to do brakes on this guy again. Also taking notes for my 66 F250 (see a more recent video for that one - can’t wait to get started on that guy!!!)
Do you plan on getting it painted?
Yes, but..... that’s a LONG way down the road! Likely prime it all so it’s one color for now. Maybe do a DIY at home kind of paint job just to save it from further rust, then eventually do it “right”, instead of cheap. 🤷🏼♂️💵🤦🏼♂️
M113A3....more bearings to pack than any normal human being should ever see.
I see what you mean if you have a part number memorized! Yikes! Hahaha
DIY Home and Auto M113A3 is the Armored Personnel Carrier I first went to war in; 5 road wheels, a drive wheel and idler wheel per side. A bearing job was an all day affair during annual services.
On my 85 ford the outer berring is just placed in there and held in by the washer then bolt then retaining clip then the cotter pin.
Yup pretty common for the 80’s vehicles.
I’m still workin on my 78, isn’t it a pain sometimes jacking up the front these twin I-beam trucks
You aren’t kidding! I forgot how big of a pain that is! So heavy! I’m super glad I have my larger jack stands!
On my 73 F100 I note a rattle going over bumps from the front but if I hold some pressure on the brake pedal there is no rattle. Is that likely to be that bowed piece on the "key" and does it come as part of a kit with new rotors.
Could be. That’s something to check for sure. Could also be a worn bushing too.
I used a 36” breaker bar
Yeah sometimes you need to throw extra lean beef at it to get to budge! 🙌🏼
Vacuum bleeder and draw the fluid down
A vacuum bleeder is faster, but not worth the money unless you're in a shop
I ended up buying one when we do the rear brakes. Much easier and I won’t bleed brakes the old way ever again! 🙌🏼
At lest she didn't show up at dads in hi heels, like my daughter does, when she needs to fix her car.
Dust sheild
You dont use the race to pack the bearings. In fact I wouldnt use them at all. And when bleeding the master, you need plastic hoses to run up so that it doesn't suck more air back in
Seems like there is a trend for you and having lug issues when you’re working on these dentside fords 😂😂
I see what you did there! 👌🏼🤣🔥
You named your kids Tabor and Tavish? WOW dude, you need to back off the Meth!
Again showing your ignorance! Those are family names, we are Irish. But you are too all about yourself to understand anything outside your tiny circle of influence! Troll elsewhere keyboard warrior!!!! 🙌🏼