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SUBARU Engine Rebuild - Short Block Assembly - Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2019
- Our EJ20 / EJ25 Subaru engine rebuild continues with assembly of the shortblock. We show you a full step by step DIY rod, crank, and Subaru case install procedure.
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JE Pistons: www.jepistons.com/
K1 Technologies Crank & Rods: www.k1technologies.com/
ACL Race Bearings: www.aclraceseries.com/
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The boys at NV Auto are hustling right now, swooping in for the tag team action on this vape box! 👏😎
That digital torque gauge is slick! Been watching these series in case I have to pull my engine for the first time (never done one) but it's really awesome to see how it's done! Great job guys!
It's ridiculous how easy people make it look. Pulled my 07 impreza engine it took 2 an half hours with a few people. And broke a couple bolts 😅
More Subaru engine videos? My body is ready!
Boys. I love these detailed engine videos. Super interesting to watch. I’d suggest more like these.
Yes keep these Subaru videos coming!
Omg an ej207 stroker. Jesus I'd give my left leg for that block.💯👌
You know itll be a nasty little revver eh? Id love to do this to my V7 swap
Yeah I really like this it's perfect I'm getting ready to rebuild my 2.5 turbo XT Subaru outback I'm just a shade tree backyard mechanic but I've built a lot of motors that way some of them made it to the drag strip!
As the former owner of a new GM6, I can't believe Subaru has made such a labor intensive engine. These great videos show me a lot to consider.
Good luck with the build!
Usually, engine builders will double check the machine shops clearances.
They are the machine shop
I like how they have the angle specified. That may calculate to 65 foot pounds but from thread friction and other inaccuracies you could hit 65 ft lb early and stop before it's tight enough
We install the pistons separately with the crank all ready in the short block at the factory. I build all 2.5 and 2.4 turbos in the outbacks and accents. I guess these are different even though the basic layouts are the same.
You guys have done it once again! I LOVE your videos! Just wish we could trade places lol!
Surprised yall dont wear gloves tho when doing engine builds.
NV Auto looks well equipped!
The chemistry is riveting.
😂
that sound of 90 deg torque of the bolts sounds like bad things are about to happen
wow
sounds like the case bolt holes weren't cleaned it should never sound like that
There really is no videos like this on TH-cam. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Sorta.. this isn’t how a professionally built motor is put together. But this shows how the block goes together
@@Jonny_trans^^ so many things wrong with this video
@@rlew12 man this was two years ago, but what are some things wrong with this video?
You guys are awesome....thanks.....
Thats a nice looking crank...
Great video! I recently had the short block replaced in my 2009 Subaru Forester XT due to excessive oil burning. A week after I got my car back from my Subaru dealership, I can still smell the oil. Is it because the new parts are still breaking in or the job wasn't done right? Thank you for your time.
I was going to comment about not using a torque plate but I see everyone else knows about subies in the comments :)
No torque plate ? 😩
Well put together video!! This should help out those DIY guys for sure!
regardless what the shop said, I'd still measure the clearances to double check. ej's are notorious when it comes to bearings.
Looks like some prime goodies going in there! Have you guys decided on a vehicle?
God damn how do you get an accurate torque with out lubing the threads on the case bolts. They sound drier than a popcorn fart.
I was thinking the same thing but im not a qualified mechanic nor have I put a EJ together but common sense will tell you them sounds are not the beat sounds you want to be hearing when building an engine but then again them bolts are the stretch bolts and im not sure if that has anything to do with it 🤔 but anyway im sure they got it done and I would love to know if this engine is still going strong or has it been out of the car already im guessing the crank got scratched when he dropped it in on an angle and the it fell on its on weight right on the corner of that crankcase which had to of took material off the crank and not stretching them bolts properly in my opinion that is
Another fantastic video, but give us a source for the builders guide road-map you are using! Thanks.
whats up with the degrees vs ft pounds torque down, never seen degrees before.
If all I’m replacing is the rod bearing, do I still need to check the clearance? Same crank and rods
Nice!!
hey where could i get a manuel to assembly an ej257 like the one in the video? thanks
Increased cylinder volume + decreased mechanical inertia = 😎🤘
I see this "angle" torque strategy in several vids. Could you please elaborate on this system and why it is used?
Nice amount of that silicone..
EJ25いいですね。
Question: What’s stronger? A stroked EJ207 (to 2.2L), or a sleeved de-stroked EJ257 (also to a 2.2). Actually curious
Probably the sleeved motor, but it depends on the thickness of the sleeves. A sleeved ej20 would be stronger than either. As long as you're not running an open deck block (not recommended for anything other than stock rebuild). Stroke doesn't have anything to do with strength, it just gives you more low end torque for high stroke and lets you rev the engine higher/moves the power band right for less stroke
@@rlew12 Wait. So the stock STI motor comes with an open deck? And, if so, then to rebuild with not open block, then what block do I need and where to buy it?
@@RobHTech STi (USDM) comes semi-closed deck. Check outfront motorsports if you’re looking to rebuild an engine, or maybe IAG for an all new short/long block
sleeved is stronger, but sleeves are quite a pain to deal with. The main reason they’re using this engine over an ej25 is the heads. they flow very well and can rev to 8k (8.5 possibly im not fully sure) from the factory
Is the K1:crankshaft lighter then the original crankshaft
Hello greetings
Where can I get the literature with the information they used to build the engine? I have the 255 with everything new and I want to build it well. Who can help me, I thank you.
At 9:13 of the video, what sealant product are you using?
You sure you are using enough sealant?
guys we need your garage in kenya
Onde consigo essas peças?
I’m currently in the works of fully rebuilding my ej20 from a 1998 jdm Wrx and I have no idea what parts I should be looking for, I’m thinking of achieving about 350 or more hp. Is there somewhere I can look that will help me
Isnt the "stroker crank" just an ej25 crank and some forged rods o.O
@zeroyon223 They're using an aftermarket EJ25 crank(79mm), it's a "stroker" for the ej20 (stock 75mm), but they make 83mm crankshafts to go another step up
Didn't pre stretch the headstudz like arp specify though?!?
Given the hp and money this will have, why did you hone and bore the block without a torque plate?
My experience is that Subaru blocks being so compact, don't deform as much as larger and longer blocks. It isn't a crucial procedure on a build of their power levels.
I’ve heard the torque plate is more commonly used in high hp builds. My EJ was honed 20 over, 5000 miles and no problems yes.
Might have been used during bore but not needed for the honed part
smaller engine, less prone to deformation, plus quality metal and casting, I wouldn't worry about it like an LS.
I didnt think it made a difference but the fact it's small makes sense. I've never built an EJ, but my sr and jz both were torque plated. I just thought it was common practice.
Did they torque plate hone the block?
No torque plate? Yikes
Torque plate isn't needed for a hone and cross hatch. OS bore only. They said they did the +.020 bore the night before, willing to bet torque plate on that op
@LAD Teknologies I have 4 EJ's I machined and built myself that ran over 170k each, two of them are sitting in my garage and make just under 400hp, 31 years as a class A machinist and I believe the final honing process doesn't need a torque plate (especially when using a flex hone) because in the case of an EJ motor it has nothing to do with aluminum on aluminum but to simulate the bore distortion caused by a torqued head which can be up to .0016" to .0020"... pretty significant. I've found a torque plate is ultra valuable for grinding ring gaps as well
@@irontiger0462 yeah. I was going to start disagreeing with everyone but then I realized its not even a closed deck build.
Wow more interesting
Those creaking bolts really needed lube at the bottom surface of the bolt, plus you didn't use an angle torque wrench, not saying it's the end of the world, but you are a shop that is building engines, I should have the correct tools
ARP studs aren't torque to yield
Great video guys but I just want to add I would be abit freaked out if my mechanic started reading instructions 🤔 and guys reading this if your considering a build make sure its a subaru crazy mechanic they know all the little tips and tricks subaru engines must go to subaru guru's
I didn't realize he was Canadian until exactly 5:00
I realized about 2 minutes in when I was like," he sounds like one of the trailer park boys"
When I built my ej25 it was a real pain getting the wrist pins and clips in. I thought up new cuss words while doing those.
I was reading on the Crawford performance website that you should not rebuild an EJ short block because honing the cylinder head walls will weaken them too much. What do you think, they said the block is too weak to start with? Thank you for your reply.
They must have ment boring the cylinders, if done with cylinder head simulator torque plates and engine block case half torque plates i dont see a problem if block is checked and clearance properly for a stock or slightly modified build,but in all honesty if your goin to spend big money on internals why not just start with new case halfs,halls, in reality if you don't own or have access to all the measuring tools to properly check your work and a dust free place and the proper knowledge to build a engine properly dont wast your time for the little more money just buy a new short block from subaru for a mild build anything more than 400 just buy a iag shortblock rebuild your cylinder heads and build it that way its really the better way if you want it to last if you do all the work yourself and just put your rebuilt heads on a new shortblock you can get a reliable 450hp or more car that if maintained properly could last up to 100k depending on how you abuse that power for about 5000 grand at a shop your goinnto pay additional labor on top of that to about 7000 depending on how many modifications you want ,take your time it will be more enjoyable if you build it yourself. Unfortunately these subaru engines are expensive to build might as well do it right and not twice.good luck with whatever route you choose.
No torque plate for the power hone?
anybody know how much more hp building it as a 2.2L would add?
Where can i get those torque specs
These flat engines are so weird to me, not used to the look of them at all. Lol, very cool though, unique like a rotary but more durable and heavier. Keeping the weight low to the ground is a great idea, after all. ✌😎
9:46 That is about 3x too much RTV. It's really bad to get on the bearings, which will inevitably happen with that much. Also you guys didn't put any oil on the case bolts like you're supposed to, that's why you can hear them creaking so dang much. That page of the FSM has been revised.
It's nowhere near the bearings. Even torqued properly. Have you rebuilt any ej207's? Can you link the video? Also you're not supposed to put oil on any engine or case bolts. OEM doesn't call for that. Usually there is a specific lube that is specifically named in engine rebuilds :)
Were can I find the ej20 service manual?
here you go www.wrxinfo.com/service_manuals/
This man seems very much alike Roy off storage wars Canada that's who he reminds me of
Is it just me or are the piston side holes a little light on material? I mean the inner diameter of the steel where there the bushing seats, from that ID to the outside of the rod seems really thin to me
How much does that engine build up cost?
So expensive good lord. Hopefully everything goes smooth for me on my 2.5i
On my Subaru short blocks, I like to spin the crank over one rotation between torque steps, to seat the bearings. And just out of curiosity, why didn't you at least plasti-gauge the rod bearings? I wouldn't just trust that the clearances are correct.
The machine shop already checked clearance so no need
I agree. You won’t know unless you do it yourself. It’s not good until verified good.
NV Auto trusts their machine shop...
Never trust a machine shop, always double check, the builder gets the bad name for the failed engine
Hello guy.. I want to know crean shaft of Subaru EJ 20 of use Turbo and EJ20 no use Turbo is same or different? Please guy help me.🙏🙏
Just one question what the cost of the rebuild .
Looking for the same thing man haha, I can’t tell you exactly but just looking at the prices of aftermarket bottom end components (crankshaft 1k-2k) (pistons 400-700) I think the engine could cost between 5000 ( for a lower hp application) to about 7000. Obviously this is just estimating and guessing please if anyone knows the answer correct me if I’m wrong
How much to rebuild EJ25 ?
why no torque wrench on some of the head bolts?
i meant to bolt the 2 halves of the block
no lube on the bolts damn they are squeaky! you guys should have lube the thread on all bolts for proper torque to give it that preload effect.
you shoul oil the head bolt ends and use 20- 50 0il fo all not silicone in the chanels
That looks like an STI block. JDM WRX 2.0l motors dont have the sidewall supports. Only the 2.0l STI blocks do.
They said it was a EJ207. which is a sti block, so they covered that.
How do you contact NV auto?
ARP hardware is NOT torque to yield hardware. You torque it and then move on. The 55° after torquing is NOT what should be done with anything other than stock hardware 🤦🏻♂️
Ben Upde my 2jz K1 H beam rods had a final angle for the torque. They also used ARP 2000 bolts
Use the specs ARP specifies for the fastener if you are using ARP fasteners
Where is this shop located
🇺🇸I like this video🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
I think he could have done a nicer job with the silicone joining the two halves
Why he didn’t lube the block bolts 🧐
I need you guys, I want fix my Subaru 2013 wrx turbocharged, how can I find you ? 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
That crank dropping in place... Yikes.
whats wrong with scene?
@@krillonusa was a bit Savage. Should basically drop in but they put it in off angle so it bound on the thrust side of the bearings
I wish I read the comments before watching the video lol. That torque spec for head bolts is way off... mine snapped at 90 should've researched more been an awful time getting it out had to split the block. It is not that high.
We’re you guy from
i think you need more silicon in there
Very interesting. Great vid. How much did the rebuild cost, including the machine shop? Very interesting to make a stroker engine. I just noticed that the heads are off kilt due to the alignment of the pistons-crank
How was the block cleaned to look fresh?
What's the name of this shop?
Contact info?
NV Auto, Located in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
No lube for bearings..even metal on metal contact
no plasti- gauge?
I was wondering that too, I always do it just to be sure everything is correct.
case bolts need lube never let the squeak ouch
They do that regardless
This engine will not last!
And then, all the internet mechanics requests a torque plate.
Pretty sure those are forget rods not billet rods...
that bolt screeching is very wrong... lube those case bolts please.....
came here for nam
The screeching of the bolts is killing me.
😖...Not bad but I was cringing when he was tightening the block bolts. That’s why you use either a dab of oil or ARP lube.
Also, expensive rotating and reciprocating gear in a block that has no sign of a torque plate during bore or hone, I would let you guys build me spaghetti and meatballs.
PLEASE do not reference this video to assemble an EJ (or any) engine. You'll end up with an expensive paperweight.
It's good to see people putting videos out there and trying to encourage others to get into engine building, BUT putting out content like this on a major channel and glossing over a LOT of the important details (not to mention having the tang direction on the connecting rod face the wrong way will spin a bearing) is a huge disservice to the community. People see a video like this and slap an engine together without torque plates, checking connecting rod orientation, making sure bearings are consistent thickness/clearance with a bore gage/plastigage, overdoing it on the RTV (globs WILL end up in your oil pan), installing the bolts dry (you can hear the screeching). It looks like you pulled the bearings straight out of the packaging and threw the engine together. Subaru blocks are stamped with letters/numbers stating the variance in main bores and cylinders so that different sized bearings/pistons can be fit to take up the slop, each bearing needs to be matched to a specific journal and shuffled around/sanded on the back to get matching tolerances.
Look at the videos from subaru mike building the engine in his driveway (he's a master tech), MRT performance (they actually develop and fully understand the parts they're using), subaruONLY (he's built a lot of these engines), and read "Team Scream"s posts in the engine building section of the nasioc forums
Exactly!
Not to mention the poor job of the case half sealant. Just putting it on as a bead is a no no. Should be spread out by finger so there is no excess that could break off and clog an oil passage.
I think your comment is of good help also but even with those mistakes I dont't think anyone should take one single video as the holy word, as we all know no mechanic has the magic formula, we learn from many many different people, it is your job as mechanic or car geek to do the proper investigation, the video does have many good practices and I think one can still learn, I watch the guy on the garage too and he's good if you bring togeher all content you'll end up having more knowledge, I do thing we should all appreciate the fact that other car mechanics open up the door of their shops to try to show us things that are helpful to all of us a car enthusiasts and mechanics, greetings!
Way too much sealant. If any excess gets into oil galleries ... oh man.
Haven't even finished the video but I have to now to see the slow Trainwreck in motion. Love MRT and Subaru only. Getting ready to rebuild my ej205 so looking to get the most knowledge on it.
Yup. came across this video as I'm prepping to do my EJ205 rebuild, just to stock specs, and noticed some glaring issues that you pointed out. I always go mic/bore gauge over plastigauge for true precision
Didn't machine the heads, put the silicone like they are making a bathroom, didn't use lube on the bolts....yeah, thanks, but that's a definitely a how-not-to video
No honing block being used??? Waaaaaay too much silicone on the case halves!!!!!