I have a thought about the main crank pulley. Before that, I want to say this is a really excellent video series, and I have absolutely no problems with it at all. That having been said, I want to point out that lightened crank pulleys aren't always the best choice. The rotating mass of the pulley and the flywheel provide an important damping function that helps protect the crankshaft bearings and bearing surfaces from irregularities in power generation. If the flywheel is being significantly lightened, I think it's actually better to replace the main pulley with something like a Fluidampr rotary damper. This is what I did with my EJ257, and I am extremely happy with it. The flywheel has much more mass further out in its diameter than the crank pulley ever could, so the amount of engine responsiveness you gain by using a lightened crank pulley is very minimal compared to lightening the flywheel even a little bit, and the extra mass of the fluid damping system in the Fluidampr pulley is in a relatively small area, and does very little to hinder the responsiveness of the engine while providing enhanced protection to the internals to compensate for what was lost when the flywheel was lightened.
I always knew my Subaru friends were were a little different. After this series I see just how different and special they really are! Great to see how these things work from the inside out!
You guys literally just saved my life. I purchased a 2011 Subaru WRX a couple months ago, and today I took it to the shop and had them look at it for a coolant leak. They told me that I needed a new short block and it would be around $9,000 USD to fix it fully.. So I'm just going to buy a short block and put it back together myself.
@@mindfulbody.mindfullife4197 my mechanic back home did it. For about 4700 including parts and labor. Just the short block from OEM would have come out to 4k..
This would have been so useful to me a few months ago! Glad it's out there now though. Tran's timing video was hugely helpful during my assembly, thanks for that.
Well I have lots to ask and say.... 1. When will you guys announce what car this going into?! Lol 2. Just run a straight pipe exhaust and run a high zinc oil..... 3. You guys deserve more subscribers!!! Excellenct content!
Use a catless UP-pipe, the factory OEM uppipe on the older US 2002-2003 Subaru WRX 2.0L motor has a catalytic converter that overtime with high miles breaks apart & has a high chance of going into your turbo.....
Personally I would have gone with a performance damper rather than a lightweight one and just gone with lightweight pulleys on the accessories. I'm not an expert in engine harmonics by any means, but I have been told that if everything is balanced together its not as big of a problem on a boxer. For example having the pistons, rods, crank, crank pulley, flywheel and pressure plate all balanced together.
This was a great video learned a lot about the boxer engine and im gonna use all the tips on my future build im only 19 year old very into cars and wow this video help my knowledge about an engine a lot 10/10 amazing video
Was really looking forward to the full timing procedure and there was no link posted (I am possibly blind.) Going through the full degree process on a DOHC motor that's had shaved heads, block and new aggressive cams, tends to be of great value. If for nothing else other than to confirm the specs on the supplied cam card. Was this done off camera? Obviously the offset idlers allow the timing marks to be lined up 'by-eye,' but is that really good enough for a $12k+ build? Knowing the exact cam position relative tot he crank will also give you a known point for playing with the variable cam control through the ecu. I know random guy from Australia questioning about how a pro shop builds their EJ motor's wont hold much water, but I had to ask the question. If I found out my engine builder didn't use a cam degree wheel to set my cam timing, I'd send it back, as it should be part of the build notes/blueprint of all clearances provided at the time of invoice. One thing not covered (though you may in the future,) is how do NV-Auto recommend priming the oil system prior to first startup? Obviously you can't spin the dizzy (like and old V8.) We tend to just spin the motor over on the starter with the plugs out (so there's no compression) and the fuel injectors unplugged until we see oil pressure. While there are pressurized oil pre-luber's (melling make a good one) I'm curious if there are other alternatives worth considering? Finally a collaboration with Nick's Garage (th-cam.com/channels/Kxu_85y8YGFQcY11cJGNtA.html) to see this on an engine dyno would be a riot ;) Great series guys
There is one point that you sort of allude to - when doing a build, before fitting the heads (or cams is separate) I will turn the engine so it is 90 degrees BTDC for a 4, or 45 for a V8, so the pistons are far enough down the bores to avoid ANY possible valve contact as the cam's are turned to their marks, when all the cam's are in their correct TDC #1 timing position. I then bring the crank to TDC as all the valves will be safely clear and fit the chain(s) or belt(s) as applicable, set the tension as required and turn it over several times by hand before checking the timing is still correct - sometimes it is possible for a belt or chain to not be seated quite right and jump a tooth. Good question - if they are not currently made, perhaps it may be a market opening for someone to make a pressurised oiler that screws onto the oil filter boss and the engine can be filled up via the oilways, before fitting a (filled if applicable) oil filter and starting the engine.
I don't know if this helps, but Subaru's aren't timed at TDC, they're timed with all pistons equal. The oil pump is keyed to the crank, and aligns with a mark on the block. Then you align the cams with marks on the front covers, using a specific tool from Subaru (or a little ingenuity). If the marks on the timing belt don't match with the cam gears, then something's off.
AWESOME series guys!👍 NV Auto is about 2 KM from my house. I wonder if they work on 370z. Would be nice to take my car to a place like this that shows attention to detail when working on a customer's car.
Skyler Sommer I noticed that the Avcs cam gears were installed, too. But from what I am aware of is that Cobb does not service the 207. Only the Prova AccessPort will work.
Since you will have to make custom intercooler pipes anyway why don't you reverse mount the intake manifold? Much neater and shorter distance with a front mount.
if they're doing everything from scratch already... and with custom piping... it's more of a why the hell not?! Every lb of weight counts, every bend in a pipe counts, every bit counts.
There is several things is see moderately wrong here. Perrin pulley not a good idea, as the engine needs the balance. Then water pump with the fan style that causes cavitation. I'd also do red loctite on the oil pump back screws.
My 2013 Wrx has a plastic intake, is there any impact using the one in the video? I'm trying hard to find for my engine build where to get that aluminum version.
Awesome just awesome. i have a jdm Cable throttle Ej 20, i think lol i bought it from Houston jdm. I d love to send it to you guys and have you work on it check it for me. This engine will go on my 75 vw bus and will be my daily driver like to get a quote from you guys
Got a price and parts list for this build?I have a 98subaru forester and I want to rebuild the engine.220,000 miles is why. It's starting to nickel and dime me on parts,and it would probably cost less to rebuild the ej25 than piecemealing the parts to keep it running. Either way,I want to know how much it would cost to build the engine better and make it faster and more fun.
on the water pump i see you used a stamped impellor, there is alot of people saying the cast impellors are a better design. is there any truth either way?
can i get a link to all the fuel injector parts installed??? the cobb fuel rails dont show compatability with 07 sti only 08+ so idk if it will work with a ej207???? just trying to figure this out
Conventional oil in break in helps the rings seat faster if you use synthetic oil it takes forever for them to seat and you will blow smoke for a couple thousand miles
Crank pulleys made of aluminum make very very little difference in acceleration or throttle response. But do what makes you feel better. IMHO should have definitely stuck with the stock one with dampener. And it’s a felony to remove an emission control system on a vehicle that is driven on the road. But again do what you like to do.
@@chandlerbraaten847 it's still bad for the engine :/ regardless of if the engine is balanced by design, it's literally not safeguarding the engine and if you're chasing some hp and you have that on your engine it won't last long.
@@TriniRogue No, its not. It's a myth on modern internally balanced engines. I've had one on my 350Z for 6 years, 25 track days, and 50,000. No issues.
@@heyhayhay247 are you chasing hp or are you tracking a stock engine because as i said its not safeguarding the engine which is why its bad, i didnt say they will blow up your stock motor.
@@TriniRogue The engine doesn't need a safeguard. That front pulley's rubber is for NVH, not for reliability. If they put on a fluidamper, that would safeguard, but the Perrin pulley is a better option than an old stock pulley that will likely fall apart as that rubber deteriorates.
I have a thought about the main crank pulley. Before that, I want to say this is a really excellent video series, and I have absolutely no problems with it at all.
That having been said, I want to point out that lightened crank pulleys aren't always the best choice. The rotating mass of the pulley and the flywheel provide an important damping function that helps protect the crankshaft bearings and bearing surfaces from irregularities in power generation. If the flywheel is being significantly lightened, I think it's actually better to replace the main pulley with something like a Fluidampr rotary damper. This is what I did with my EJ257, and I am extremely happy with it. The flywheel has much more mass further out in its diameter than the crank pulley ever could, so the amount of engine responsiveness you gain by using a lightened crank pulley is very minimal compared to lightening the flywheel even a little bit, and the extra mass of the fluid damping system in the Fluidampr pulley is in a relatively small area, and does very little to hinder the responsiveness of the engine while providing enhanced protection to the internals to compensate for what was lost when the flywheel was lightened.
I always knew my Subaru friends were were a little different. After this series I see just how different and special they really are! Great to see how these things work from the inside out!
You guys literally just saved my life. I purchased a 2011 Subaru WRX a couple months ago, and today I took it to the shop and had them look at it for a coolant leak. They told me that I needed a new short block and it would be around $9,000 USD to fix it fully.. So I'm just going to buy a short block and put it back together myself.
Did u do it
@@blakeangell385 not yet
@@dannyp204 any update?
@@mindfulbody.mindfullife4197 my mechanic back home did it. For about 4700 including parts and labor. Just the short block from OEM would have come out to 4k..
I’m on the same path with my sti brother!! Fuck paying 10k when I could do it myself for half the price !!
Love this guy, straight answers, no stuttering, he knows what's up!
lot of voice cracks tho lol
Absolutely the best tutorial videos on rebuilding Subaru engines. Thank you!
Nice to see you guys supporting one of our local Bay Area shops, LIC Motorsports.
Love how you leave out certain points that would be valuable if someone was following along and actually doing it 👍
that mechanic is the best one to be in on a video.
" thanks to valvoline for being our start up oil sponsor "
Please put this in a gc8. The classic turbo Subaru that started everything, the OG.
Love the GC8, just tough to find a clean one these days.
get a jdm one! there are a blast to drive you wont regret it
@@organizedsolid
what about the gd models, arent they almost the same?
PUT THIS IN A FORESTER 🤔
Should install that engine in a Subaru Baja.
All these special tools and he still does the water pump alignment just like the rest of us 🥹
This would have been so useful to me a few months ago! Glad it's out there now though. Tran's timing video was hugely helpful during my assembly, thanks for that.
Where can I find the timing video
That engine is gonna give the 818 some serious jam! :)
You are correct - Doing a wrx - sti motor. A 1900 lb car pushing 400 hp should be a rocket,.
Great engine builder here, thanks guys
I finally have a reason to prefer a specific oil. Valvoline make great videos!
Well I have lots to ask and say....
1. When will you guys announce what car this going into?! Lol
2. Just run a straight pipe exhaust and run a high zinc oil.....
3. You guys deserve more subscribers!!! Excellenct content!
Good tip on the oil, thanks, I’ve been looking for a break in oil
I like how stubby and chunky the Subaru Parts are, so different from what I'm used to in straight fours! Pretty cool! ✌😎
Another lifetime Subaru engine part is definitely a KillerB oil pickup
That electrical torque is awesome 😎
Use a catless UP-pipe, the factory OEM uppipe on the older US 2002-2003 Subaru WRX 2.0L motor has a catalytic converter that overtime with high miles breaks apart & has a high chance of going into your turbo.....
wedgoku So do the older Foresters. :(
We got nothing but good luck with em' BE HONEST MY FRIEND! No correction needed lol. Its all about luck.
I'm hoping this goes into the fr-s...
Tyler S they posted a photo of an sti brake calliper and disk on their Instagram story. But you never know
That intake manifold is too tall to fit under the hood of a fr-s...
NV Auto is awesome
Sure would have been nice to hear it run and seen the dyno run
I saw DP strapping this motor down to the tundra in early December at NV, always wondered what it was for lol
Personally I would have gone with a performance damper rather than a lightweight one and just gone with lightweight pulleys on the accessories. I'm not an expert in engine harmonics by any means, but I have been told that if everything is balanced together its not as big of a problem on a boxer. For example having the pistons, rods, crank, crank pulley, flywheel and pressure plate all balanced together.
7:10 voice crack 😂
Please do another video showing the Subie you installed that Thor on! And show us how much it makes! RIGHT NOW GADDEEEEEMMMMMIT!
This was a great video learned a lot about the boxer engine and im gonna use all the tips on my future build im only 19 year old very into cars and wow this video help my knowledge about an engine a lot 10/10 amazing video
Fantastic! Hopefully this series helps you out.
Nice and clean. I want to see this in a car
Coming soon!
Was really looking forward to the full timing procedure and there was no link posted (I am possibly blind.) Going through the full degree process on a DOHC motor that's had shaved heads, block and new aggressive cams, tends to be of great value. If for nothing else other than to confirm the specs on the supplied cam card. Was this done off camera? Obviously the offset idlers allow the timing marks to be lined up 'by-eye,' but is that really good enough for a $12k+ build?
Knowing the exact cam position relative tot he crank will also give you a known point for playing with the variable cam control through the ecu. I know random guy from Australia questioning about how a pro shop builds their EJ motor's wont hold much water, but I had to ask the question. If I found out my engine builder didn't use a cam degree wheel to set my cam timing, I'd send it back, as it should be part of the build notes/blueprint of all clearances provided at the time of invoice.
One thing not covered (though you may in the future,) is how do NV-Auto recommend priming the oil system prior to first startup? Obviously you can't spin the dizzy (like and old V8.) We tend to just spin the motor over on the starter with the plugs out (so there's no compression) and the fuel injectors unplugged until we see oil pressure. While there are pressurized oil pre-luber's (melling make a good one) I'm curious if there are other alternatives worth considering?
Finally a collaboration with Nick's Garage (th-cam.com/channels/Kxu_85y8YGFQcY11cJGNtA.html) to see this on an engine dyno would be a riot ;)
Great series guys
There is one point that you sort of allude to - when doing a build, before fitting the heads (or cams is separate) I will turn the engine so it is 90 degrees BTDC for a 4, or 45 for a V8, so the pistons are far enough down the bores to avoid ANY possible valve contact as the cam's are turned to their marks, when all the cam's are in their correct TDC #1 timing position. I then bring the crank to TDC as all the valves will be safely clear and fit the chain(s) or belt(s) as applicable, set the tension as required and turn it over several times by hand before checking the timing is still correct - sometimes it is possible for a belt or chain to not be seated quite right and jump a tooth.
Good question - if they are not currently made, perhaps it may be a market opening for someone to make a pressurised oiler that screws onto the oil filter boss and the engine can be filled up via the oilways, before fitting a (filled if applicable) oil filter and starting the engine.
www.melling.com/product/engine-prelube/
This is the Melling pre-luber the MPL-101.
I don't know if this helps, but Subaru's aren't timed at TDC, they're timed with all pistons equal. The oil pump is keyed to the crank, and aligns with a mark on the block. Then you align the cams with marks on the front covers, using a specific tool from Subaru (or a little ingenuity). If the marks on the timing belt don't match with the cam gears, then something's off.
@@jarrodnichols8111 That is a smart way of doing it - no possible way of valve/piston contact when rotating the camshafts into position.
Can't wait to see what car it goes into... GC8 please.
I have a 1985 Subaru XT that this would look great in
you guys should put that engine into an 01 impreza outback sport/gf8
Interesting choice.
I agree! I got my version 7 in my 93 AWD L GF. Nasty how quick she is!
I would of had tape off those intake/exhaust ports😉during the assembly process..
This should be in a Factory FIVE Racing 818 or something lighter like a streetable Formula V.
Never mentioned anything about putting anti-seize on the head bolts and all the other bolts and putting loctite on the flywheel bolts etc
So all in a nutshell whats an average price would be for this build? I like the way the build was going NEW parts
AWESOME series guys!👍
NV Auto is about 2 KM from my house. I wonder if they work on 370z. Would be nice to take my car to a place like this that shows attention to detail when working on a customer's car.
NV works on all sorts of cars so they'll have no issue working on your Z!
Ive got a 2002 wrx bugeye sedan that motor would look mighty fine in! just saying if youre looking for a car
Paint Dry motor like this easily runs 5k+
@Speed Academy Why does using non synthetic high zinc content help with break in? Thanks you! amazing content.
PUT IT IN THE FRS!
How are you planning on using AVCS with a COBB tune on the 207?
Skyler Sommer I noticed that the Avcs cam gears were installed, too. But from what I am aware of is that Cobb does not service the 207. Only the Prova AccessPort will work.
pretty sure ecutek or apexi makes a tuning system for the jdm 207
“Presented by Valvoline” put pennzoil ultra platinum in that bitch👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Since you will have to make custom intercooler pipes anyway why don't you reverse mount the intake manifold? Much neater and shorter distance with a front mount.
Matteo Vittoni it only saves around 3ft of piping nothing substantial spool wise
if they're doing everything from scratch already... and with custom piping... it's more of a why the hell not?! Every lb of weight counts, every bend in a pipe counts, every bit counts.
What’s a rough estimate of all the parts and love the build guys
There is several things is see moderately wrong here. Perrin pulley not a good idea, as the engine needs the balance. Then water pump with the fan style that causes cavitation. I'd also do red loctite on the oil pump back screws.
What about the timing before putting in the spark plugs?(DTC, rotating crank, etc) I see a lot of people confused here.
Put it in a wagon. Stealth
Sharing the same sentiment
That's a beautiful engine I wonder what the total cost of it was
@@md93-z5e no shit, really I know that much
why no synthetic oil during break in? What's the reasoning behind this?
No update on this motor? Seen this is the last video from 5 years ago?
Non synthetic oil is the best oil in these motors. Synthetic can give you blow by easier due to how thin it is.
Do the Intake Cam gears ever have to be serviced to replace the O-rings they have inside?? I don't ever see anybody talking about those..
Can't wait to hear it, it's going to sound so good. Bet it's going in a Miata lol!
Great series, Keep it coming
What sealant did you use on the engine core plugs?
Did you torque the oil pump to 7ft/lbs? Thought book called for 4.7ft/lbs.
My 2013 Wrx has a plastic intake, is there any impact using the one in the video? I'm trying hard to find for my engine build where to get that aluminum version.
Hows the engine holding up? and what car did this go into?
Thank you so much for this!
Is there a link to the timing video?
Apparently you are holding the oil jug upside down for intended pour velocity.
Rookie oil changer.
What was funny is that the drain plugs were not installed in the pan?
They aren’t looking for a car lolololol. It’s in their abandoned STI.
Awesome just awesome. i have a jdm Cable throttle Ej 20, i think lol i bought it from Houston jdm. I d love to send it to you guys and have you work on it check it for me. This engine will go on my 75 vw bus and will be my daily driver like to get a quote from you guys
I would like to know what this would cost as it is right now?
Good day sir ! how many Ft . lbs . torque for connecting rod bot, main bearing cap for subaru Ej 20 thanks a lot
Got a price and parts list for this build?I have a 98subaru forester and I want to rebuild the engine.220,000 miles is why. It's starting to nickel and dime me on parts,and it would probably cost less to rebuild the ej25 than piecemealing the parts to keep it running. Either way,I want to know how much it would cost to build the engine better and make it faster and more fun.
on the water pump i see you used a stamped impellor, there is alot of people saying the cast impellors are a better design. is there any truth either way?
If you guys still need a car for that engine, I volunteer my 02 Bugeye Wagon!!!
Do you guys have a video like this for the fa20 trying to assemble my long block to crate please reply
can i get a link to all the fuel injector parts installed??? the cobb fuel rails dont show compatability with 07 sti only 08+ so idk if it will work with a ej207???? just trying to figure this out
what is the reason for using conventional over synthetic? is it just a track thing or would you recomend it on street use too?
Conventional oil in break in helps the rings seat faster if you use synthetic oil it takes forever for them to seat and you will blow smoke for a couple thousand miles
Crank pulleys made of aluminum make very very little difference in acceleration or throttle response. But do what makes you feel better. IMHO should have definitely stuck with the stock one with dampener. And it’s a felony to remove an emission control system on a vehicle that is driven on the road. But again do what you like to do.
Always gotta have that guy with the harmonic dampener argument.
Amigo cuando le ponen silicón al bloque esa cantidad es mucha y tapa los pasos de aceite cambio y fuera
What kind of sealer do you use for the valve cover? At 1:12 (really usefull rebuild series btw!) Thanks!
Aren’t the v7 ej207 jdm engine tgv’s deleted from factory?
Good work!
Why use the Perrin pulley ? Is not that bad for the bearings after a time?
Subaru engines dont have much in terms of harmonics or vibration. The short crank with the opposing cylinders keeps everything balanced by design.
@@chandlerbraaten847 it's still bad for the engine :/ regardless of if the engine is balanced by design, it's literally not safeguarding the engine and if you're chasing some hp and you have that on your engine it won't last long.
@@TriniRogue No, its not. It's a myth on modern internally balanced engines. I've had one on my 350Z for 6 years, 25 track days, and 50,000. No issues.
@@heyhayhay247 are you chasing hp or are you tracking a stock engine because as i said its not safeguarding the engine which is why its bad, i didnt say they will blow up your stock motor.
@@TriniRogue The engine doesn't need a safeguard. That front pulley's rubber is for NVH, not for reliability. If they put on a fluidamper, that would safeguard, but the Perrin pulley is a better option than an old stock pulley that will likely fall apart as that rubber deteriorates.
please tell me this went in a 2004 subaru forester
How much would something like this cost if you were to rebuild one of these for track use?
Put it in a forester as a all weather performance daily and tow vehicle.
why do you guys switch between the beeping and click type torque wrench?
What size fuel injectors did you throw in it.
Where is the link for in depth timing progress
You guys should have painted the valve covers
How do you know if the cams are oriented correctly????
Where do you get the cam seal assembly tool?
What type of sealant is the grey stuff you used?
no valve cover gasket? just sealer?
how much would a set up like this would cost?
what would a job like this cost ?
How I know if is california emission cause my car has no hood stickers
What kind of sealant are y'all using when assembling parts?
Permatex Right Stuff.
great video but it drove me crazy hearing the host say "weight" when speaking about the oil....it stands for "winter"
I hope the mystery car is a f5 818c
Where is the next part?