Rear Drive Shaft - Prop Shaft on a 2006 Porsche Cayenne
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 เม.ย. 2021
- Replacement of the Drive Shaft (Propeller Shaft) on a 2006 Porsche Cayenne. This is a common problem on this vehicle.
Rear Prop Shaft:
amzn.to/3QktyJy
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I am a self taught mechanic of over 30 years in the field. Helping people save money and stay safe on the road is what I am here for. If I can pass that along in my videos, that would make me feel even more accomplished. I am rather old school and do not really do things by the book, for this reason, I do not claim to make "Instructional" videos. My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Please use safety and knowledge when doing your own repairs. ~ Ben - MegaMiles
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Thank you for sharing. Brought back the memories of steering gearbox input shaft seal change on my 1981 Oldsmobile (back in 2004) without removing the box (but removed thrust bearing adjustment nut)
Thank you sir. I spent quite a while trying to get the shaft loose from the rear end. Your tip of taping it forward worked a charm.
Awesome! Glad to hear that :)
Thank you for educating me.
Im really happy to hear my video helps you! Thank you!
Also, great video by the way!!
Made that look easy. Thank you.
Thank you!
Hey, thanks to this video I did mine in no time, thanks so much.
Glad to hear! Thank you!
Thank you so very much , you made it look so easy , my buddy and I were trying to do my 2011 Q7 but we couldn't figure out if we need to removed the Diff so we can get the rear drive shaft out . Will try to do it your way and I hope it will work . will update how it goes !
Thank you! And yes, please keep me posted.
Guess I should have just read the comments! I didn’t rite the wheels I did it on the ground in terrain mode
Going to be doing this job today, you make it look super easy. Thanks for the great video, I’ll update once I’m done 😅
Thank you! Good luck!
Getting the cardan shaft out was easy 👍 got it done in an hour. Now on to installing the new one :)
And I’m done - super easy job, even alone! Thanks for the great video!
I'm glad it helped!
Do you need to do any special aligning or pre tensioning for the center support bearing when you bolt it in place.
No, everything should bolt right up.
Thanks MegamilesBen for the video. I have a 2008 VW touareg which has the same Propshaft as that of Porsche. I noticed that when try to press the gas pedal of my car, like I want to do a harsh acceleration, you will hear a loud bang coming from the from passenger wheel, like a punctured tire. But on inspection, no blown tire or any of the component around the tire is loosened. What could be the cause of this loud noise? Thanks.
It could be a variety of things (Axle, Bearing, loose caliper or braket, loose lug nuts, strut, loose Subframe or more). I'd take it to a shop for a look over.
Transmission or motor mount as well.
Did you figure it out?
This is the carrier on the driveshaft. It’s blown and sounds like midgets in the center console.
What happens if you don’t make those marks?? And line them back up
I work on a lot of different vehicles so I do a lot of marking just as precaution. When working on 4wd, its good to line the diff up with the transfer case or it can cause issues. Its just out if habbit honestly and really isnt needed on this vehicle.
We are in the Springs if we lived closer you might have had one more to do. 2006 V8 Toureg the subframe is a in the way. Got it loose and even dropped the sub frame some got the old one out now the new one is being a pain it can't seem to clear the subframe. No doubt a lift would be nice. Your video is appreciated and very helpful.
Really sorry to hear that.
Finished it up now have a vibration between 20 and 25. Doesn't seem to be at ny other speed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Not really sure on that. Kinda hard to diagnose like this. Check your wheel bearings too maybe.
@@MegaMilesBen thanks appreciate it
Great Video I'm in the middle of this today, could not get shaft out, must need to lower rear muffler more, what a PITA.
Sorry to hear. I hope you get it.
@@MegaMilesBen i worked all day to try to fit in the carden shaft what is the trick, if i set the rear i can't get it over the spline on the transfer case, and the rear assembly is in the way to put it on the transfer case first. any suggestions? i have to take a day off tomorrow to complete it.
If i tighten it up on the fex disc to transfer case can I lightly pound it up over the rear subframe assebly?
Try sliping the rear of the shaft up over the top passenger side of the differential before you slide the front in to the transfer case. Then you should be able to slip the rear down.
@@MegaMilesBen got it, im doing it in the garage so maybe jack up the rear end of the shaft to hold while i am putting it on the spline?
I'm currently stuck taking mine out, everything is unbolted but I can't get the tail shaft off the rear diff, it sides about 2 inches, is there a C clip? It's so full of grease it's hard to see anything
No, there isnt anything holding it but the bolts. You might be just sliding the cap and not the actual shaft. Theres an aluminum cap on it.
Thanks for the quick reply, it is the driveshaft sliding not the cap. The vehicle belongs to a friend of mine, I believe it is a 2006. I have removed driveshafts from several trucks but I have never experienced something like this, the whole shaft will slide approximately 2 inches away from the rear diff then stop. That's what lead me to think there was some kind of retaining clip.
@@Hergmann27 Yea, thats strange. Not that I know of.
I did not mark the shafts on mine :( how can I make sure they are lined up properly?
Honestly, I dont think it matters on that one. If it does, youll know right away when you try to reverse or drive. In that case, pull the bolts on one side, spin the shaft to the next bolt hole and try again (repeat if needed). Itll be one of the 4 possibilities (or 6 depending which side you pull bolts from).
@@MegaMilesBen thank you sir!!
What's the point of marking the positions, since you're replacing the whole shaft? Marking is necessary when rebuilding the original shaft, but the new one will have a different balance. (hopefully) Also, according to the manual, you need a 390.00 alignment tool for the center bearing support alignment that must be perfect aligned axially, or it will fail prematurely and cause humming/vibration. Serious question, I am DIY replacing mine tomorrow.....
I work on a lot of different vehicles so I do a lot of marking just as precaution. When working on 4wd, its good to line the diff up with the transfer case or it can cause issues. Its just out if habbit honestly and really isnt needed on this vehicle. Im rather old school and cant say Ive ever done anything by the book.
The alignment tool is only needed when rebuilding the shaft. This is a brand new shaft and has been prebalanced.
awesome two questions. satisfying answers. thanks to both of you.
@@MegaMilesBen I mark everything too I've been wrenching 20+ years old habits die hard 😂
Glad you asked the question about the marking up as I was thinking the same thing why bother marking for a new shaft.
I'm replacing a transfer case and driveshaft. Would I have to make marks
I’m not understanding how marking the shaft helps when the whole thing is being replaced.. can someone explain? I’m doing this job Saturday
Its just out of habit and not necessary for this vehicle.
@@MegaMilesBen I use to do it when I was putting the same one back in
If anyone is still stuck on removing the end of the driveshaft, what you can do is remove all of the bolts from the rear end and then put the car into gear and try and drive forward lightly.
Yes I’m having a nightmare of a time removing it. It’s never as easy as in these videos plus we have zero clearance on the ground. Going to try this next, had to take a break almost feel defeated but we never give up. Thanks for the idea.
You are a genius my friend I drove around my parking lot nothing then I gunned it and one Bang(!) later it popped right off. It was pretty much welded on there from the wear and rust.
@@datazndood Yea, some of them can get really stuck depending on a few factors. Colorado isnt the worst for rust so I do get lucky often.
Im so glad to see you guys were able to help eachother out! Im glad you got it off!
@@MegaMilesBen Getting it off was a challenge for sure, but putting the new one was insane too for me. It was almost impossible to get it in I had to do it front first and jack up the rear after(had to jack up the center support cover too basically had to force it in). It’s so tight on there that it sits crooked toward the front and the guibo rubs against the transfer case mating surface. I know I did something wrong not sure what if you have any idea I’d very much appreciate it. Is it because I didn’t use the special tool Porsche recommends, I put it side by side of the old one it was exactly the same length. Please help.
@@datazndood The only thing I can think of is maybe the center support bracket is installed upside down.
What are the torque specs?
Front Bolts... 56 ft-lbs
Rear Bolts... 22 ft-lbs
Center Carrier...
2 Smaller Bolts... 15 ft-lbs
4 Bigger Bolts... 44 ft-lbs
where are you based out of?
Denver Colorado
How much time should a pro shop take to do this job soup to nuts?
That would depend if its a swap or if theyre rebuilding the shaft.
The swap took me roughly an hour with no book procedures. This was my first one.
Its my shop neighbors sons car so I see the car pretty often around here. Its doing great.
@@MegaMilesBen I think the rebuild is bananas. To me the best way to do it is how you did it. Get a new shaft, trash the old one, and drop the exhaust out of the way and put the new one on. Thank you! Nice vid!
Thank you.
Its definately the cheaper option too.