The Truth About Spray Foam Insulation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Watch this 7 minute video as Steve Maxwell explains why spray foam insulation is safe and effective.
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#DIY #insulation #sprayfoam #insulationnation #insulationb #insulationfoam #insulationinstallation #insulationsucks #insulationremoval - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great info. Play at 1.75 speed if you’ve short on time
Great video! Definitely learned a lot and I like the style of how you breaks things down simply
Well explained, thank you so much for this video!👏👏👏
So informative! Thanks so much for making this video. Your wealth of information is amazing.
Glad it was helpful!
Outstanding explanation oh, thank you very much for detailing
Thank you for explaining this like Im 5 😊 with pictures and all!
Thank you very much for your diligence. Justed learned about certain types of shinges not playing well with spray foam applied directly underneath it: apparently because it seals so well, shingles that that rely on proper ventilation to stay in place on the exterior loose their grip to the structure with time and that dramatically shortens the lifetime of such shinges. I wonder if this claim has merit and how the problem may be resolved.
Use fiberglass shingles, not asphalt. Spray Jones has a complete video on it.
What about increasing the strength of the structure? In florida where I live they also claim it increases the rigidity and strength of the structure for protection from hurricanes. Thanks 👍
Perhaps a House with SIP panels are better because they are mounted to the Exterior of the house. Like a Timber Frame House with SIP Panel
Where would you use open cell foam and why?
Thank you for explaining this like.🥰with video and all.
Our favourite version of a chistmas carol.
Excellent.
Is it true you can use closed cell
spray foam right up against a vaulted roof structure and not need to worry about venting or airflow through the roof structure?
It depends on a lot of factors. For example, if it's a cold climate, and there are roof overhangs, the condition you describe could cause ice dams. The decision on what insulation you use and where to use it, especially in a retrofit, has to be considered in the context of the climate, condensation risks, cost, etc.
It doesn't depend on anything. Yes, the answer to your question. I do it all the time. My house is done that way. my garage. my dad's shop and a few hundred other peoples houses, garages and shops that I've done over the last 10+ years. It's perfectly fine 100% of the time. Cost in the only factor why anyone will sometimes still do a blown insulation in the attic.
Steve,
Is it advisable to use closed cell foam in the walls of a 2x6 new construction home and use open cell in the attic? Either Tyvek or Zip System will be used for vapor barrier on the outside of the walls. The roof will be a tile roof. Home is being built in Houston Texas. High heat. High humidity! Thanks in advance!
Hi William,
Most of my experience is in a heating climate (not a cooling climate like yours), so I'd double check with several installers in your area to see what they recommend. Open cell in the attic strikes me as a good way to economize in that situation, but local experience would count for a lot, too.
Thanks for watching!
Bye,
Steve
I'd read all the comments William....no foam! Especially in Houston. Looking for a mold problem to happen!
Foam is an excellent option. HVAC system works hand in hand with the open cell foam.
@@bcolex many foams have antimicrobial properties, e.g. ncfi.com/content/uploads/2020/01/NC-11-016-InsulStar-TDS-123019.pdf (search for mold in pdf)
William, what you mentioned is an idea setup. I have also done hundreds of houses with all open cell with exceptional results. Either way you will be very happy with this investment. The only thing to worry about in Houston where you have high humidity, is getting an hvac unit too large, to where it short cycles because of the high efficiency of the spray foam, and it wont dehumidify properly. Which means it will kick on and run for a very short time not pulling enough moisture from the air. To combat this, hire an experienced hvac guy who is good at doing manual j, and you will be fine. If the unit is already installed, a simple dehumidifier in the attic will work great.
I am a spray foam and coatings contractor in Texas, servicing dfw, west texas and your area.
Thank you...
Have you ever had any excessive humidity issues by spray foaming the roof deck or in general?
The Spray Jones TH-cam channel has videos concerning all of those issues.
Hello Steve,
you seem to be including a hole bunch of products under the umbrella of "spray foam". You need to be careful when brushing them all over the same comb. (i.e. Polyurethane foam is closed cell, Icynene is open cell). I'm not a spray foam contractor or chemist, but the foam that you refer to as using water as a blowing agent, must be polyurethane (PUR) and Icynene. The water that is added during the spraying process reacts with the polyisocyanates to form CO2. Polyisocyanates are toxic (may cause allergies and is in suspicion of causing cancer). PUR is chemically inert when it has finished reacting, but the danger is in the non-reacted compounds. PUR is a perfectly okay product used when it has been created in a controlled environment (i.e.: factory), but when it is mixed on site (sprayed), it comes down to the contractor (as you mention).
One of the biggest issues that I have with it, is that the closed cell foam itself is a vapour barrier, due to the shrinkage (3%, which it is legally allowed to have) it will break away from the studs, and create spots where moisture can be transported into the walls (and leads to condensation, mould and structural issues). Spray foam can be used in tricky situations, but I'd encourage everyone to try to think of how to eliminate it first. Usually it can be eliminated by design, but I see it used frequently because the construction company doesn't bother to figure out how not to use it in the first place.
Cheers, Hans
Hello Hans!
Thanks for your note. Good to hear from you. I appreciate you taking the time to write.
Yes, there are a number of different foam chemistries. I also discuss the difference between open and closed cell foam in a companion video. You mentioned Icynene and they have both and open and closed cell formulation. I've experienced the shrinkage you talk about. It doesn't happen often, but just to be sure I always leave sprayed cavities open for a couple of weeks. This is enough time for shrinkage to happen if it's going to. I then fill any gaps with spray foam from a can.
It looks like you're a builder. Do you have anything online? I'd be interested to see what you've up to.
Take care, and thanks for watching.
Steve
I install spray foam. It's not normal for foam to shrink. When installed too hot or too thick, in my experience, will shrink.
You make many good points. I own a spray foam company, and I agree that “Bad foam”, as we call it, can 100% lead to health complications if installed improperly. But on the other hand, I’ve never seen foam shrink, but a majority of our foam work is installing Conklin foam roofing systems. Conklin’s roof foam is premo! As good as it gets! In my opinion, of course! Lol
Oh also... closed cell polyurethane foam IS a moisture barrier. Standing alone, (without any type of coating yet applied) I’ve watched it keep many many many many roof decks dry during very heavy rainfalls. Like I mentioned, this is far before any type of membrane is applied over it.
New individual to foam and very interested in this career path sorry for the Probably dumb question but could you apply closed cell as the 1st coat to prevent moisture then apply open cell on top to complete the insulation?
That's a great question, too bad noone has answered. Have you gotten the answer elsewhere since?
@@c0naNnn Yes you can. Depending on your climate whether or not you'd even want too. Closed cell has to be applied at usually 1.5 inches before it reaches a vapor barrier per code. Then there is also the hassle of switching products during a job, and the hassle of going over everything twice to get it done. I mostly wouldn't mess with it unless it was in an attic where we'd do 2 inches closed and 12 inches open over it. Otherwise Id say do all of one and be done.
I wish everyone could agree on the most efficient product that is safest. I have to insulate a cabin and nobody seems to agree on the safety of spray foam.
Unless you are eating piles of it, its completely safe. And great for helping people with allergies. It has the best air sealing qualities out there. Keeping spiders and allergens outside where they belong. There are alot of mis informed people out there. And the stuff we have today, is definitely not the same as it was back in the 80s.
Would it be wise to prime the backside of the roof osb and rafters?
no
Love it❤
my brother is about to redo his basement and he has some sort of a fear of spray foam....he thinks his wall needs to breathe..we are in a cold climate and I think he should do a 1 inch spray foam over the entire basement foundation and right up into the rim joist area. He thinks he should have an air gap before any insulation. I think he's nuts....any thoughts here?
My only concerns with spray foaming a basement are that the foam might separate from the wall...what do we know about it's long term adherence to a concrete wall that isn't studded?
This is such a beautiful movie a masterpiece.
Do you need an air exchanger when using spray foam?
You should have one anytime you build a tight home. Even if you don't, because otherwise you are relying on the wind to blow though your walls to bring fresh unfiltered air into your home. A HRV or ERV are pretty minimal costs in the grand scheme of things.
very good an concise presentation, would have been nice to have also some disadvantages to balance the presentation, otherwise very informative
Spray foam Insulation also helps immensely against vermin such as roaches and mice that love the traditional type batting insulation that they use to make nests and reinfesting your dwelling.
@ so what would u recommend. I hate batting and dont want to go that route. Or the spray pink fluff they put to keep homes energy efficient. Is there another option? I have to redo my whole attic and crawl space.
Can you stop spray foam from shrinking.
Yes. When, let's say closed cell, is spray on too thick it will crack and pull from studs. Open cell, depending on the manufacturer, will "shrink" of sprayed on too hot. The spraying temperature must be right for the conditions. Moisture on the substrate can also play a role
With a proper application of a quality foam product, yes. All foams from different manufacturers have a dimensional stability rating if they were tested. Some have good ratings like
If not properly designed and executed, spray foam can be harmful to your health. Building products have been increasingly mass produced with untested chemicals, and building an airtight house has the unwanted problem of locking in harmful off-gassing from laminate, vinyl, paints, sealers, etc. besides the foam's own potential for off-gassing. We just don't know enough about the different chemicals used. ERV/HRV systems are absolute neccesities for these types of houses. I am a proponent of tight houses, but a tight house built with materials that are dealt with properly.
My question is isn't it important for your house to breathe to keep the materials from molding doesn't spray foam prevent this from happening ? I see so many people put this in the roof and my thought on it is how is your roof breathing
@ Every spray foam I've seen for US has Class 1 E-84 Fire Retardant included, e.g. www.biotexfoam.com/fire_retardant_spray_foam.html or you can 'paint' it with an intumescent (fire retardant) paint.
@ how is the moisture trapped when the hvac system is removing it from the inside? Ive sprayed homes much more than 10 years ago and none of them are falling apart or rotting like you are saying. In fact i keep in touch with alot of those customers because they are wanting me to spray friends or family members shops or homes. Ive never had 1 complaint. And been at it since 2005.
@ What im saying is you have no idea what you are talking about. I have thousands of customers who say its the best investment they have done to their home. All you have is Google. Im going off experience. Ive been building homes and spray foaming for more than 10 years. Spray foam is the best insulation to date. And i do all kinds of insulation.
Every time you open a door or a window the house will breathe...Daa
I'm not saying spray foam is the worst thing I am saying for a roof I don't understand how the roof can breathe opening windows has nothing to do with the air passage through the roof i Would agree spray phone is great on your walls I just don't know about your roof I think it would cause your shingles to burn out twice as fast like a roof without a rig vent The problem is shingles need to breathe they need to have cold air flowing underneath or they burn out taking a 25 year shingle and cutting its life in half
but do i need to knock off all dry walls, remove fiberglass before able to spray foam into the wall?
Whoever Whoever Think back to late 80’s and early 90’s. People advertised spray foam into walls from out side. It did not work all kinds of things in the way like insulation. Then it would blow out wall from the expansion. I have ripped open walls with this done. Usually only 25% effective.
So yes remove fiberglass and drywall.
@@mikewhite9818 They have spray foam that is "Slow Rise" that you can use in walls: sprayfoamkit.com/products/slow-rise-spray-foam/ and yes, it's antibacterial and fire retardant and a vapor barrier.
Its best to remove the sheeting from the interior.
That foam insulation will add significantly to the fuel load, if there is ever a structure fire
A sealed house will actually be depleted of oxygen before it can breach the structure.
Depends on which type used. People still spraying with the old gasoline based stuff in the US and Canada (where that is not yet illegal) should be taken behind the shed and executed. PUR foams come in different types. The best of them get B class fire safety while D class (worse) is the minimum requirement in the building codes that I know.
In the US, the E-F class foam is probably still legal too, but badly unsafe.
@ The plus side of the home being depleted of oxygen is that all the residents will already be dead so there's no reason to fear burning to death.
First off let me say I'm a firefighter. Secondly let me say that I also own a spray foam insulation company. Ok so here is the breakdown. The foam is on the other side of a 15 minute thermal barrier. So no it will not add significantly to the fuel load, but do you know what will? Your plastic carpet, your plastic couch, your plastic bed, your plastic cloths, the kids' toys, the blinds, the everything in our plastic world these days. Now if you have it in a building and nothing is covering it at all and a large fire starts in the building, hell yes it's going to add to the fuel load and you better start running for the doors.
That's why code demands that it be covered by a 15 minute thermal barrier.
*79 dead: The Foam Insulation blaze that ripped through the Grenfell Tower, London, causing multiple deaths (79 confirmed / 120+ estimated) has prompted widespread commentary on the Foam Insulation Industry. A Criminal investigation into the Foam Installation Contractors concerned is now taking place. It appears there will be a criminal prosecutions for corporate manslaughter for those concerned whose acts or unsafe products committed the offence. In the case of the Grenfell Tower fire, the most likely prosecution candidates would be the building’s management company, and the insulation contractors and sub-contractors involved in the property refurbishment in which apparently highly flammable foam materials were fitted as insulation.*
It must not have been this: www.uksprayfoam.co.uk/icynene-classic-plus-o-fire-retardant-spray-foam-insulation/
The fire was started by a malfunctioning fridge-freezer on the fourth floor. It spread rapidly up the building's exterior, bringing fire and smoke to all the residential floors. This was due to the building's cladding, the external insulation and the air gap between which enabled the stack effect. It burned for about 60 hours before finally being extinguished.
The Grenfell Tower Inquiry began on 14 September 2017 to investigate the causes of the fire and other related issues. Findings from the first report of the inquiry were released in October 2019 and addressed the events of the night. It affirmed that the exterior did not comply with building regulations and was the central reason why the fire spread, and that the fire service were too late in advising residents to evacuate. A second phase to investigate the broader causes will begin in 2020.
SPF maybe ok in new builds, but definitely should be avoided in older properties. Many lenders won't touch a house with SPF...
Rockwool has a high R value and not all the chance of problems
Rock wool does not air seal. Remember, a yeti cooler will keep ice for a very long time. Unless you keep opening the lid.
Doesn't moisture seal either.
This video is misleading. It's not about safety, it's all about the advantages. Only a tiny minute or so about safety, and very incomplete. Doesn't discuss the chemicals and dangers, just that he likes water-blown delivery. What about all the off-gassing from the isocyanates?? It comes across as an ad for the spray foam industry.
In Germany you cannot buy insulating foam without prior consultation and only in small quantities. Because it is so safe and harmless? I heared it is because of the offgasing. I often uses foam, but only for sealing some holes or corners, where I had no other possibilitys. What about the air quality in houses like this?
@ You don't know whether that roof is ventilated or not (5:45) - it probably has venting above the sheathing, as is more common in 'tight' houses these days, and that is a respirator, not a filter mask (provided he has the correct filters installed in it).
@@ScottHz
Do you see dedicated ventilation machines on the floor anywhere? I certainly don't.
And there is no shed on this planet that has enough ventilation power installed normally, to take away the isocynates to a point where you could safely apply this old-fashioned stuff without dedicated temporary machines.
What they're doing here is illegal in most countries because A it is unsafe to employees and B it is unsafe to a customer who gets a building that is toxic for days, weeks or even months after application.
As a result, nobody does this either. Demolition or renovation is an utter hell after a building has been ruined by spraying isolation.
Also, out of fire safety ratings, between A (best) and G (the equivalent of gasoline) this stuff is rated F or G.
To give you an idea: Under the building codes that I know and work with, if I did what you saw in this video, I would be stopped by building enforcement, before being arrested by police and charged with battery times the number of employees present as well as an environmental crime. This before the owner of the building sues me for the cost of tearing the whole thing down and rebuilding it, but not before the municipality fines the hell out of me.
That's how shit this stuff is, used negligently in this form.
It's pretty much only the US and third world countries where this is legal. Even under CHINESE buildings codes they would fuck your shit up if you did this and then went "Here's your shed back. Feel free to use it from day 1".
@ The picture doesn't even show the floor! Why do you assume it's not there?
You are misinformed. The isocyanate and polyol mix together before they leave the spray gun, so unless the operator is criminally negligent and wasting materials, there is no 'isocyanate' being sprayed, only polyurethane (the reaction product of the isocyanate and polyol).
Yes, there have been a handful of poorly applied jobs where the roof had to be removed (as seen on TH-cam), but there are hundreds of thousands of structures with happy, healthy occupants who are paying way less in heating/cooling costs.
Blah b I’m a chemist, and I have knowledge of this material. If this stuff is so deadly, it would be illegal. There are not ‘high dosages” of isocyanates in the air when applied correctly, which happens 99.9% of the time - this has been used in hundreds of thousands of structures around the world.
HVAC is now Not sized Properly existing HVAC should be Replaced after sprain foam.. Fact? also HVAC will need Fresh air depending High Humidity
When you don’t cover the rafters, this effects the performance of the spray foam. Spray foam needs to cover everything like an ice chest.
I disagree
@@patrickflynn4617 he is actually correct. It causes thermal bridging. If you have ever seen a house with some snow on the roof thats been spray foamed, you will actually see the snow melting where the rafters are. And not between where the foam is insulating. Your framing accounts for around 12% of the wall space, and thats 12% that doesn't have insulation.
@@premierinsulation7252 Not correct. You will see differences in frost lines on a spray foam roof and here is why. When you take a roof with trusses and you completely encase the truss cords within foam there is no thermal bridging going on and yet you can see the truss cords, why? Here is what I figured out. From the day before when the sun was shining on the roof, usually the south, east or west slops it will warm the deck up with will warm the truss cord and that truss cord will retain enough heat many times that the next morning frost will have not formed over them. And here is the reasons I know this. This doesn't happen on the north facing slops, and also on my garage roof the perlins are buried under 12+ inches of foam, but I'll still see this where the perlins are. It wont melt snow, but it wont develop frost over the night in those areas if the sun was shining on the roof the day before.
Now if you do have exposed rafter faces you can get thermal bridging though, but sheeting over the rafter face will not improve the R value or performance enough to be noticeable or stop snow melt if that is an issue. Sheeting is less than 0.5 R. The best thing you can do to stop thermal bridging is completely encase the rafter or truss cord within the foam if possible.
Won't covering the rafters trap moisture causing them to eventually rot?
do I need vapor barrier on interior wall before applying spray foam
not on closed cell
if its interior then no. Even if its open cell or batt
Yes. Icynene scammers might claim their foam is different, but there is a risk of condensation if you don't have a barrier.
@ Ironically (?) Icynene now sells closed cell foam in addition to the open cell foam they have historically defended.
Formaldehyde is used to make this product
Used to be not any more. Do research
has been zero formaldehyde for a real long time in it.
what about venting?
It is unnecessary in this situation because of reasons explained in the video.
Makes a video about spray foam safety... Doesn't talk about off gasing risks.... Ugh
I notice this on a lot of these videos. I want to know the parts per million in the air days to months to years later after the application. In fact that's my biggest concern. A poor mechanical aspect of foam is bad but it doesn't make me sick.
@@safffff1000 That is one of my concerns too along the spraying over pipes and wires and the problem of having to dig them out of the sprayed foam and the potential rotting of wood from exterior moisture trapped between foam and wood.
The only off gassing you get is when applying it. There is no off gassing when it is cured. He specified that when applied by licensed professionals it is safe...UGH.
@@vaderladyl External moisture will dry to outside. Any leaks from outside should be fixed from outside.
suposed to be foam between deck qnd foam
Spray foam needs a fire barrier by code either intuminscent paint or sheet rock.
"It has water in it - therefore it is safe." Well... you forgot to talk about the isocyanates, carbondioxide, and why you need hazmat suite and respirator when working with the product....
What you failed to note before running your mouth is knowledge on the product itself. First, anytime you are working with a chemical of any kind, a mask/respirator is highly recommended. You even should wear one while doing standard insulation so it does not go into your lungs. As for the suit he is wearing to apply it. Again, if you knew anything about the product, it sticks highly to everything. So getting on your clothes and skin is not fun. So being fully protected is the best known method. So you should go learn more about the product and not run your mouth on something you know nothing about.
Inert after application. PPE is only required when in a vapor form during the reaction time.
@@ericvanzeyl4483 It's not highly recommended, it's 100% required if you want to be in the industry for any amount of time without health issues.
This stuff is deadly if there are areas that were not mixed correctly. If it catches on fire you are in big trouble-it releases hydrogen cyanide. Please do not put this in your house-especially for the sake of the fire fighters that might have to breath this stuff when trying to save your house in a fire. I worked with this stuff over 16 years, so yea, I do know what I am talking about. And, working without out PPE, is not an option.
spray foam between stud cavities is a lesson in stupidity ok so you get an R 30 but seeing as 15-20% of the wall is still an R6 its way more efficient to install all control layers -- water -air- vapor- thermal on the exterior and get a true R value install a rain screen throw on some cladding and be done with it and still end up saving money and have a better performing environmental separation
Randy: Agreed. I strapped the outside and inside walls to create stop thermal bridging and blew in celulose which also fills every shape and void. Fast and safer in a fire. You can't light that stuff on fire. Staple an available mesh fabric onto the inside walls and blow a dense pack through small cuts in it. My 2 X 6 walls are now 10" no thermal bridging, no chemicals.
@@MikeJones-rk1un you forgot all the fire retardant chemicals in your cellulose to make it not burn.
@@christophergruenwald7266 How did I forget it? Spray foam outgasses for years after install and reduced the value of the building. Good luck selling any house with that poison in it if the buyer or back finds out.
@@MikeJones-rk1un Baloney. Cite any reputable study that proves that.
@@percyfaith11 Are you saying you don't know about the out gassing problem with spray foam? I've seen multiple studies. You can do your own research if you want. I'm too busy to baby sit you.
Put this in your roof if you wish to slowly rot all your roofing timbers and encourage insects to devour it. I work in the building conservation industry and have dealt with several cases where foam was used, and the aftermath of when people do not understand materials, their properties, how they interact with each other. In tradition style of roofing building using this will trap moisture in your timber and will slowly destroy it. As humans live within a structure we generate a considerable amount of water vapour, humid air will rise. This why in a traditional style roofing construction, the water vapour that is created must be able vent or dissipate otherwise it'll create perfect conditions for rot and insect infestation. I recently dealt with a late Georgian town house here in England, spray foam was used sometime between the late 90's to 2005. The result of this was extensive rot and wood beetle infestation which resulted in nearly all of the beautiful historic Oak and Elm timbers needing to be replaced. The roof if maintained properly would have lasted many hundreds of years. and would not have lost historic and beautiful craftsmanship. The cost and labour involved in restoring was also astronomical. In non-traditional roofing, a system like this potentially may be fine but must not be used when wooden rafters, battens, joists, purlins etc. are in use. Also in older constructions using water permeable masonry units such as clay brick, stone etc. this must not used either as it prevents the ability of the structure to loose moisture, "breathe" and dry out. Foams may have fantastic insulative properties but when using a material all aspects of its properties and how it interacts with the materials around in have to be considered. When using foam, along with many materials such portland cement, gypsum plasters, plastics etc., the fact that they have no or very little water permeability and therefore tend to trap moisture in the material they are covering always needs to be considered.
@ outlawed in UK? Where is the proof of that?
Better call the bobbies on these guys! www.evergreenpoweruk.com/how-safe-is-spray-foam-insulation-the-truth-revealed/
The worst thing about spray foam is it that it releases harmful gases for many years to come inside your living space definitely not where I would want to live and breathe
Baloney. Cite the scientific studies that prove that. The only outgassing that happens is during application and curing.
@@percyfaith11 Unhealthy Off-Gassing & Dust
Spray foam produces two forms of toxins: continuous off-gassing and chemical dust.
As a two-component chemical system, spray foam is made by mixing Parts A and B. When the chemicals are prepared under the right conditions and precisely mixed, the chemicals will have a complete reaction. After the initial, noxious spraying and curing periods, they may eventually become inert. But, if not reacted fully, off-gassing will occur indefinitely, posing a continuous health hazard to occupants and sometimes producing a tell-tale odor.
Additionally, spray foam is commonly dislodged, cut, or trimmed during installation, creating noxious dust. Both dust and off-gassing from spray foam can be dangerous. To help mitigate this risk, installation workers are required to wear hazmat suits with full face and respirator protection, while also keeping the workspace properly ventilated.
Of course, spray foam can be unsafe for occupants too. According to the EPA, occupants must stay away from the building while it cures (and as long as the dust remains) for at least 24 to 72 hours, something they, devastatingly, are not always told. If the spray foam continues to off-gas, the building can be inhospitable to occupants for years. It can even result in “sick building syndrome”-plaguing occupants with acute to chronic illness-if occupied. Abandoning a residence can result in serious financial problems compounding already-existing health problems.
What are the alternatives?
Architects, engineers, consultants, and builders have tremendous power to choose high performance and safe building systems that not only do less harm, but actively create a better future. There are many different pathways to achieve this, but they all must do the following:
Address occupant comfort, health, and safetyBe sustainable and encourage biodiversityProduce negative carbon emissions
To that end, we've developed our Smart Enclosure System with nine assembly types available that completely eliminate foam from the equation.
ACCESS SMART ENCLOSURE
Why Is Spray Foam Dangerous?
The short answer is that it's toxic! In our blog post, Why Foam Fails. Reason #1: Dangerous Toxic Ingredients, we noted that the high level of toxicity is well-documented.
MDI: The Known Hazard
Part A of spray foam is typically formulated from methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, or MDI. MDI is an allergen and sensitizing toxicant, and diisocyanates in general are known to cause asthma, lung damage, and even fatal reactions, according to the EPA. Once “sensitized” from exposure to MDI, even the smallest subsequent exposure can cause severe health effects.
Amines, Glycols, and Phosphate: The Unknown Hazards
In a CDC blog post, industrial hygienist David Marlow at the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) summed it up well:
"The hazards of MDI are well-documented and their exposure limits have been established. However, the known hazards for spray polyurethane foam only take into account the first part of the mixture-the MDI. The other half of the mix has not been studied for worker safety. It is a chemical question mark with no toxicology or health information. This part contains amines, which act as a catalyst; glycols-blowing agents that react with the foam; and phosphate, a flame retardant. This half of the spray polyurethane foam equation raises several questions..."
Without a complete understanding of the health risks posed by spray foam, one can assume it is as dangerous as MDI at best, and likely only more so.
Don’t Take It from Us
One family's ordeal was the subject of a Canadian Broadcasting Corporation Marketplace segment. After an attic spray foam job failed to cure, headaches, joint pain and swelling limbs sent one family member to the hospital. The persistent off-gassing forced the family to live for months in a temporary trailer next to their poisoned home until they were able to replace their entire roof and attic structure.
As indoor air quality expert Bernard Bloom notes in this radio segment on spray foam remediation, using spray foam is like playing Russian Roulette with your property
@@BADBONESDAD it's been used since the 1980s with good results in thousands of homes. It only releases harmful toxins when it's being applied if it's done correctly. There's some shortcoming with every other form of building material and insulation as well.
Spray foam is not a good way to go with your insolation. I have real life experience. Yes this might be great for energy savings. But I roofed a house that we tore off and the wood was rotten so we rip off to replace and the trusses were rotten out. The only thing holding the roof up was the foam. We had to get down and have them call a engineer to replace trusses and all
Nothing is more than 100%
Dont use it I'm the UK. All banks won't give a mortgage for it and devalues the house considerably even if u get one approved so I risky the sale of it
So many dislikes
Yes I think so? Lol
150% -200% improvement? No such math, Einstein.
You positive in your statement there sir? I think you may be sadly mistaken.
@@user-nh7jp1xg8i yea Skippy, I'm 100% positive.
@@dennisryan6370 So an example. If your fire retardant is rated at one hour, and you improve that to four hours, IS THAT NOT A 300% IMPROVEMENT?
TheEarthDoctor1 so your car gets 10 miles per gallon. You swap cars to now get 30 miles per gallon. A 200% increase is what you have. Not a 100% increase.
TheEarthDoctor1 just admit you can’t comprehend that if something is 3x the difference, that is 300% increase. It’s actually really simple. Not sure why a so called dr cannot understand simple math.
who's truth is this? #Offgassing
Spray foam is illegal!
Spray foam shrinks away from studs and walls.
Yeah, that's why people are still using it after fifty years! :D
yeah when installed improperly