KTM DDS Clutch Inspection & Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Correction- At 23:05 I discuss the belleville spring tensioner, but my description of the positions is the wrong way round. Position #1 will apply the most pressure and #3 the least pressure. Thanks to WTC for pointing this out...
Shows how to inspect KTM DDS clutch and replace the inner hub dampers and clutch plates.
2017 KTM 250EXC
KTM Clutch Kit Part # 54832011110
Tokyo Offroad Oil Drain Tool: www.tokyooffroa...
Probably the best how-to videos in TH-cam as far as KTM goes. Slavens Racing is good, but I think Tokyo Offroad has him beat. Excellent, your best video to date.
I did my first top end rebuild watching your videos and now I’ll be attempting my first clutch rebuild watching your videos! Thank you for the time and effort you put into these!
Pleased to hear that you are finding the videos helpful...
And yet another great video going into my "KTM maintenance" folder...Excellent.
some of the best instructional videos going cheers Tokyo Off Road👍
Just amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Replaced my clutchpack today using the detailed procedure here. The info about checking the spring plate flatness primed me for when I discovered it was concave with the new plates, and I immediately knew what to do to rectify it. Spot on! Excellent video. (Also a member of Kansai Riders)
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
Love your no-nonsense instructional videos! Best I've found for my KTM.
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos
The best instructional videos for maintaining a KTM. Great job!
Thank you. This video increased my confidence. And I must say, WOW what a difference the new ones made. I just bought a ‘21 sxf 450 and had heard about this maintenance item so I ordered the Rekluse set figuring it may be due. So much smoother, quieter and best of all, no more chain slap rolling through the pits!! The chain slapping around was ridiculous.
So refreshing to see a video like this that pays attention to important details. Thanks Tokyo Offroad!
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very good instructor!
Thanks a million. All worked out perfectly. Appreciate the attention to detail. Even going make a tool from the old clutch plate...👍🙏
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful. The old clutch plate holder tool works really well so I can recommend making one...
@ minute 20:36
I've got the same kit for my Husaberg 2013 Te 300.
I've measured the metal disks and found:
4 disks with 1.3~1.34 mm and only 3 with 1.4mm. I wonder if that's just a fabrication variation.
I've mounted the internal 1mm with the "S" mark as you mentioned, then 2x 1.3mm, then 3x 1.4mm in the middle, the other 2x 1.3mm and the top 1mm disk.
Tested the bike this weekend and worked just fine.
Great channel, great videos! Best regards from Brazil!
I love the attention to detail on your video. Makes rebuilding clutch packs less intimidating
Learned quite a lot. Very concise and easy to follow. 🎯
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
well done, 3 of my dampers were broken in two. the other 3 were spread out, lots of play. easy fix.
piuteben what does the bike do when those dampers need to be replaced?
Damn boy! you are seriously detailed! You are the kind of person that would be working on my factory edition 450sxf. Good Stuff!
Great video and very informative as usual, however it’s extremely difficult to take anything you say seriously after I watched your best modification video. My favorite was the power band! Please keep up the great vids.
Pleased to hear you enjoy the videos. The mods shown in the top 5 mods video are for unreal gains...
Thanks for the video. I never did that style of clutch before and I just bought a 2018ktm xcw 6 days. So the clutch design is very different than my 2008 KTM 200 Xcw.
Make note: clutch cover bolts, there are long sizes there. The shorter of the longer clutch cover bolts goes in by the starter. If you install the long one there it will not tighten the clutch cover. It bottoms out on the outer cases of the starter area. Learned that the hard way.
Just done this :) great help thanks, on this 250tpi 2018, one of the dampers had actually broken and worn right down uneven on one side!!
I had dampers break from heat cycles in ktm that only had 40 hrs....good job Mark
Jerry Mangan - The time the dampers are sitting in the oil is also important. I think a good replacement interval is once a year, that way you should minimize any issues.
My kit had 3 metal plates, too. But not in the same quantity as yours. I put my thickest plates in the middle, as my worn pack was the worst there. More metal = more heat capacity, I figure. So they're setup as 1.0-1.3-1.3-1.4-1.4-1.4-1.3.-1.3-1.0.
For the 1, 2, or 3 setting on the spring, is this adjusted by the factory for a specific bike, or can you change the setting based on preference? Such as using a lighter setting if you don't demand as much instant torque?
I have the same question.
thanks for the good video! i need to do this today to my 300 tpi :)
Your TPI clutch should be exactly the same as the 2017 clutch shown in the video. Hope it overhaul goes well...
I got a used KTM 250 sx and my impression was neutral was impossible to find, shifting was meh and the power felt like it just slapped on and was too abrupt. All the articles about the 18 250sx says it’s powerful so I just figured it’s how it is. Well did a Rekluse clutch thinking it would make it easier to deal with the bike. While doing the job I found the rubber dampeners were in terrible shape not even connected by the little piece of rubber anymore. Those little pieces of rubber can make the all the difference in the world make sure to grab a set next time you go to do clutch work!
Thanks this was very helpful to watch before attempting myself. Few minor differences on my 2020 500 EXC-F. Manual says torque is 80NM and no loctite. Everything else was pretty much the same.
Another great tutorial, thanks for putting time into these videos.
I rebuilt my top end recently following your top end video, very helpful thank you.
Can you make a video on how to clean a bike properly. With 160 hours on your bike and mine has sixty mine looks like it's done 560 compared. Your swing arm looks new, mine is all stained from mud, same with my hubs.
The best videos on TH-cam for riding and mechanical tutorials.
Awesome work cheers from Australia.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Regarding cleaning, I don't really do anything special, other than clean it regularly (usually after every ride) and store the bike in the garage in a dry environment. I show how I clean my bike in this video: th-cam.com/video/MEeb81HS1Ec/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic demonstration
Thanks. Pleased that you enjoyed it.
i like how u work, really nice
Your videos are fantastic, thanks for sharing them.
Excellent video. If I done this I could follow your video the first time and breeze through the job
Outstanding! Thank you!
Best and most detailed videos. Thanks a lot for this from Brazil!
Will help me rebuild my Husaberg TE 300 2013 clutch
Pleased you found the video useful...
What is the concern with the discolouration? Worried about it becoming brittle or warping? Looking at mine and likely coming up on needing to change the clutch pack. Great informative video!
David Thegan - Things to check for are heavy discoloration, hot spots and warpage. Discoloration indicates the plates got very hot. When I changed my clutch in the video it still worked fine and the fiber plates were still in spec. But due to the hours I thought it would be best to change the clutch pack anyway as I don’t want to have issues while riding.
Wish our bike technicians took such care, one thing, my 2008 300xcw had over a 1000hrs on, never changed the clutch, my 2014 also sold with 360hrs no clutch issues, both bikes ridden on rough terrain with loads of clutch slipping and my 120 kg ass😂😂😂👊👊
Nice vid I liked your cardboard template for the bolts ,I have 2 x 2007 450 sxf engines which we retrofitted the dds clutch into ,I really like this clutch over the earlier conventional spring clutch .cheersd
Awesome video - when I am going to change my clutch (which is soon), this will be my guide :-) Thank you.
Just used the video to replace my clutch and now it's working perfect! thanks Mark! :)
Nir Hason - That’s great. I’m pleased you found the video useful...
@@TokyoOffroad I must say that the most tricky part was tightening the 6 bolts of the belleville plate.
Great tutorial, it guided me through the process. Thank you 👍🏾
Pleased to hear it helped...
Excelente video! Muy claro y útil. Gracias por compartirlo.
Un saludo desde Argentina!!!
One of the best video for ktm... Hope you make rebuilding the engine👊👊👊
Very well explained all along, with specs and tricks.
I didn’t pay any attention to the difference in steel plates thickness when I replaced mine, seems to be working. What happens if the steels are in wrong order (thickness wise)?
Have you ever went to the point where the clutch started to slip ? Im just changing mine and will put in new rubbers from Recluse too. It has 265 hrs on it and still feels good, maybee a slight more drag than new. Im riding tecknical enduro and slip it a lot.
Personally I've had extremely good experience with the KTM OEM clutches and never had any slipping issues. I currently use the Recluse dampers as others have said they last longer. The clutch pack, fibers and steels, I don't know of anything better than OEM.
I figured out what "top" means on the 'washer", it means top side out, the top side is in contact with the DDS spring.
Yes, that's correct
Hi Mark! how are you? nice video! which are the possible failures or problems if your dampers needs replacements on the hub?? you show the hub has some play...what can happen if that occurs?
The rubber dampers are there to reduce shock between the transmission and crankshaft. The rubbers will slowly degrade over time, resulting in progressively more play. So long as the dampers have not totally broken up it shouldn't cause a real issue. Of course it's best to replace the rubbers periodically, before they break down.
Brilliant video as usual. I have lost count of the amount of times I have referenced your videos while working on my bike. One question. What is the thickness of the fibre plates when new. To see what loss you occurred with them all reading about the same on inspection. Thanks
Interesting my OEM kit for my 2017 TE250 came with One 1.0mm S, Three 1.3mm, Three 1.4mm, and one 1.0mm. I wonder if they have updated the pack since you made this video. Measured with calipers and clearly shown different then your video
Cool Vids!
Something to keep in mind...apparently the furthest inside and outside Drive Plates (obviously only 2) are about .96mm thick, and the inside Drive Plates are approximately 1.3mm thick...might ck with digital caliper, just in case the pack is removed in multiple layers.
Thanks for the positive feedback regarding the videos.
Yes, the inner and outer metal plates are both 1mm, but they are different part numbers. To ease identification the inner 1mm plate is marked with an "S". The plates between the two 1mm plates are thicker, but as I noted in the video not all 1.4mm thick. From inside to outside the correct order is:
1.0mm (S), 1.3mm, 1.3mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.4mm, 1.0mm
I modified the parts list diagram shown in the video to clarify this:
th-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/w-d-xo.htmlm58s
Both the plates in my bike (factory fitted) and the clutch kit were the same.
this is awesome! now need to go back into my clutch and remove plates and reinstall correctly. This is very helpful....also, great for people that were maybe running Rekluse and going back to stock clutch. sure enough, I had the S plate on the outside.....really appreciate your vids!
Good stuff broda 👌
Pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video
Excellent video , nicely done !!
My 2020 XC 300 TPI has a strained idle when not moving, in gear, no throttle and eventually stalls. It jerks the slightest bit when shifting from neutral to first but not a full on lurch forward with lots of wheel movement and it's really only noticeable if the bike is on a downhill slope. It does this whether cold or hot and it did it before it's first oil change and after its first oil change using the manufacture recommended Motrex oil. I read somewhere that it's just because it's a new clutch and that it will go away after a while. Also it did this since day one and I assumed KTM and the dealer wouldn't let this go out the door if it was an issues... I now have 20 hours on the bike. I got used to giving it a bit of throttle to keep it from stalling but a technical trail I was riding reminded me of this crappy issue. So if it is a wear-related problem and the clutch is still too new, with little wear (I don't ride super crazy), should I try running the bellevue-spring ring on position 1? My closest KTM dealer is not close at all. Last time I had it there for its 5 hour maintenance, they checked the idle and said it was fine. Not sure if they tried shifting it into gear or not.
Sorry to hear about the problem. I'm assuming the bike idles OK in neutral? Where does the clutch start to engage? With two fingers on the clutch lever it should start engaging just after the lever comes off your other fingers gripping the handlebar. If you need to pull the lever right to the bar to disengage the clutch something is not right. I'd also try using 675ml of transmission oil (Motorex TopSpeed 15W-50) rather than 800ml. This will help reduce clutch drag. I measured the amount of oil required in this video: th-cam.com/video/AhxQje0jFAM/w-d-xo.html.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the delay. Work has been really busy and I was thinking I could record a video of it, as it would probably be easier for you to see what it's doing. I'll try to get a video posted this weekend. I think it's idling fine in neutral but this is also my first two stroke so I'm not 100% sure. I've always thought the idle sounded a little low, but the shop said it was fine when I brought it in at 5 hours. It doesn't stall when idling in neutral.
Great video thank you for being so thorough
Hello Tokyo Offroad
I have a Husqvarna 300 te 2017 . I am having a rough time with my clutch. It drags. I need to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disengage the clutch. And the bike keeps stalling all the time. It is worst in steep descents.
I bought the bike used and I think the previous owner had a rekluse on it and took it off before selling the bike.
I read on a dirt bike forum that the bellevile spring could solve the problem.
And I quote :
Posted January 6, 2017
"I had a horrible clutch dragging problem on my '14, the would stall with the lever pulled tight to your fingers. You could even dig a hole into the ground if you gave it gas. It essentially started engaging from just off the bars. The problem I noticed was that the pressure plate wouldn't lift evenly as the spring seemed to apply uneven pressure. I bought a new bellevile spring and bumped up the pretension it fixed the issue so that I can disengage the clutch with one finger and don't have to take all my fingers off the grip. If I remember correctly there is 3 different settings based on how you align the ring through which the bolts go.
"
Do you know something about it?
Is it possible to fix it with bellevile tensioner ? Position 1 maybe?
I would love to receive your comments on it.
Thank you very much
Ricardo Cuetara - My recommendation is to first change the clutch hydraulic fluid and ensure it is fully bled. Is the clutch slave the stock KTM one, or Rekluse? Also is the clutch lever stock? If possible return everything to stock and test. Once you’ve done that check to see if the clutch action is the same, or improved. If it’s still not right take lean the bike over to the left, remove the clutch cover and observe how the clutch moves when you pull the lever in. If you don’t see anything obviously wrong dissemble it and inspect the clutch. It should be exactly the same as the clutch in my bike, so you can compare the metal plate thickness dimensions to those noted in the video. Look out for warped and overheated plates. If replacing the clutch I highly recommend using a KTM OEM kit to avoid issue and ensure a long life.
@@TokyoOffroad
Thank you very much for the advice!!
I already changed the clutch hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave and the lever are stock KTM. I am going to proceed to remove the clutch cover and inspect the bike. The bike has a total of 50 hours on it. I would think the plates are in good condition.
It is great to have your videos on how to. More so because I have pretty much the same components. Thank you Tokyo and please keep them coming.
I will keep you inform on the outcome.
Cheers
Ricardo Cuetara have you solved that issue? I have the exact problem with dragging and i'm desperate now.
Great tip for the bolts in the cardboarb👍
Great video as always - used it to inspect and change my first clutch on my '16 300XC.
Interesting that although my metal discs measured 1.0mm on the inside and outside, the four discs (going inside to outside of the bike) after the "S" disc measured 1.3mm, and the remaining four discs measured 1.4mm.
My bike has less than 75 hours on it, but it has started slipping suddenly. The friction plates look good and appear to have little wear. The middle-metal plates are hued purple, and most of them show somewhat heavy wear marks. Sliding aside the rubber boot next to the clutch master cylinder, I noticed either corrosion or dried fluid.
Any idea which of these could be responsible for the slippage?
If the metal plates have become very hot (you mentioned they have become hued purple) they can distort and become prone to slipping. The other thing to check is the belleville spring is flat across the face as shown in the video and tensioned correctly.
Your videos are veery therapeutic :D thank you for great information here.
Great video. Just one question. Should the clutch throw out shaft have a rounded end on the clutch side ?
Unsure if the 300 is different, or its a error, but on the 4 strokes torque for the inner clutch hub nut is 80nM, not 100 as mentioned in the video. Pays to check the manual, like I didnt :(
Hello, you dont know, but you helped me a LOT. I was wondering if you know what is the difference with starting plate marked with S and the last one, both 1mm but different part number. Thanks
Greetings from Slovenia
Very great video, when I inspect my clutch pad, it's still more than 1.9mm, but it weared somehow forsure, should I move the bolt from position 2 to position 3? I think the clutch disk get thiner, thus the spring preload might get ligher in the same position. Am I correct?
Im thinking about doing this with my own 500 exc 2016 with your video as a guide. If my plates is not the same thickness as yours, should i just go from thin to thick? Lovely video btw!
excellent video. thanks for posting.
First I have to say great Video!! Helped me a lot... I have a 300 EXC 2015. Clutch is not 100% the same as yours but Looks similar. I done everything like you explained it in you Video.. but if I Pop the clutch for a wheelie as exaple it Slips... checked several times... changed the Spring from y to x and z but it won't get better.. Maybe you have an advice for me..
You fitted a new clutch pack and it started slipping? Or is it an old clutch pack? Check that your clutch lever is fully disengaging (Mikhail in the comments below had an issue where his lever was sticking).
Thanks a lot for this. Really well done video.
Thank You Sir for your time, this video is perfect, very well done, congratulations. Best regards.
discovered why i fried the second clutch after 60hrs:
1) piston naturally moving out is correct - there is a spring inside that eliminates any freeplay in the clutch pushrod
2) I have the breakable lever and handguards attached directly to clutch/brake perch => the joint on the lever was getting stuck into the handguard plastic and upper piston was not fully returning which was constantly keeping the system under pressure...shame it took me 2 clutch kits to figure out
It's always a good feeling to find the cause of an issue. One reason I like using the Enduro Engineering Moto Roost handguards is that they mount separately and don't interfere with the levers at all. If you like open handguards they are definitely worth checking out and spares are available so you don't need to buy another full set if you break something. Also recommend checking out the Renthal Intellilevers which can dislocate during a crash.
thank you, best video replacement for sure!!!
Great video! Which setting (1,2,or3) on the Belleville spring makes the clutch pull the lightest?
From 23:00 th-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/w-d-xo.html I explain the tensioner positions (Position 1= Less pressure (easiest clutch pull); Position 3= Most pressure (heavier clutch pull)). This information is correct for my 2017, but positions may be reversed on other models so best to check for your model...
Best TH-cam
Nice explained ! But still rubber for the damping ? My BSA from 1968 had also rubber dampers , and on 4000km they must be replaced ! Nothing has changed !
Excellent. Thank you for a great instructional video.
What kind of effect can loose rubber dampeners have on the bike? I just ordered a new set as mine are loose themselves. The bike feels like the clutch is dragging at mid-to-top end. After inspecting the clutch, this was the only item of notice.
i checked my spec on the belville spring it was around 0.35mm so out of spec, i have pulled the clutch apart to replace but the clutch plate thickness is basically identical to the brand new set ! , maybe i just need to change the belville spring to get the correct tension back onto the plates ?
Thank you for the videos you make Sir !
Weird that on the 2012-2016 250/300s it says to use 10nm on the clutch spring bolts and the clutch cover bolts and on the newer ones it says to use 6 and 8. I just stripped one of my clutch cover bolts either because of the 10nm or it was the wrong length.
Edit: So it turns out all of the bolts are supposed to stick out the same amount when fully unscrewed. One was really far in and one was far out. I switched them around and it worked fine, I tightened them to 8nm and the one I stripped had enough thread further down to hold that one. After I had stripped it the first time I would've left it except the bottom of my clutch cover was leaking oil.
Don't have any mechanical skills to work on your own bike? Just buy whatever bike Tokyo Offroad has so you can watch all the fantastic how to videos!
Just found your channel. Have you ever done a complete motor rebuild video? Would be a great help of what all goes into it since KTM is very particular and uses a lot of special pieces unlike other bikes.
No, I haven't done a bottom end rebuild video yet. I'll be sure to make one when the chance comes up in the future...
Tokyo Offroad alright cool. If you do one, do it on your 2 stroke bike as that is what I plan on getting next season. All these videos help me prepare for what ill be doing to the bike if i get one.
Bottom ends on the KTMs typically don’t need anything done until 500H or more. My 2017 has done 260H now (in just under 2 years), so it’ll be a while longer...
Tokyo Offroad damn thats crazy. Whats your thoughts on a 2013/14/15 250xc motors? How reliable are they?
it's exackly the same as my clutch disks: 2x1.0mm, 7x1.4mm, 2x1.3mm
Can you tell me why the edges of plates are important? what if i turn some of them ... does it realy matter?
The idea of having the metal plate sharp edge sides facing out is that the force required to move the plates when they engage is minimized, which helps ensure the clutch engages smoothly and minimizes slipping. In this orientation the force required to disengage the plates may be slightly higher (force required on the clutch lever).
If your metal plate orientation is mixed, but you’re not having any issues I wouldn’t worry about it.
That makes sense. I need to recheck my assembly. I have some draging and have to set my lever far away from the bars which could indicates that my plates are bent but they are not. I checked them on glass and they are straight not burned or anything. Any other idea? Beville spring is flat. Middle ("x,y,z" in europe) adjustment is set. Ay idea what else could be wrong?
One more question. I'm still having issues with my clutch pack. Problem is with dragging to the point i cant disengage to neutral ... and slipping in position I and III on tensioner (which is odd because i have no problem on setting II, other than drag). I reassembled my clutch yesterday and it seems like my beville spring is convex on all 3 settings. With first (most tension on spring) setting on tensioner I still have Convex bevile spring about 0.3-0.4. Correct me if i'm wrong ... my clutch is worn out? I've checked the fiber plates (1.93-1.95) and they are in spec ... what am i missing? Didn't forget the washer under the beville spring in correct TOP facing outwards. I think i will change 1mm still plate for 1.4mm to see is beville spring is flat again, before buying whole clutch pack.
kosteros -If the Belleville spring is convex on all settings the clutch pack isn’t thick enough (worn out, something is missing, or wrong thickness metal plates). If the metal plates are discolored I’d recommend replacing the clutch. They may possibly be warped, causing the drag.
Would the fiber thickness be the same on a 19 300i xcw? I just pulled my plates and the inner ring on the steel plates are black, fiber plates are 1.55-1.79mm thick. Can’t find the spec in my manual
Great video Mark !
I love the cardboard idea!
Another excellent video. My 2018 clutch seemed to be dragging, will adjusting the Bellville spring from II to I help? Next mod I'll be following is your idles screw video. Thanks
Clutch drag is common when the engine is cold. Does it still drag badly when warm? If so make sure that you're using the recommend oil grade and also not over-filling. If drag changed recently and became bad then it's probably air in the system (try bleeding), or the master, or slave needs rebuilding.
@@TokyoOffroad Appreciate your reply, thank you. Yes, using oil as per manual. Will double check I haven't over filled but it had a slight drag since new. My idle seems low and I haven't adjusted the bypass screw which can cause to stall on occasions when warm. Can I do harm if I adjust the Bellville from II to I? I'm yet to bleed the clutch. Thanks
Another great video, Mark! Might I ask where you purchased your service manual? I would really like to get one for my 17' 250 XC-W. Cheers
Colin Trevor - I purchased the Service Manual (DVD) from my local KTM dealer
I didn’t consider the “S” marking just as I didn’t notice the 2 x 1.3mm plates. Now I have a bad feeling :) (even though I didn’t have any issue in 60 hrs after the clutch change...
There is a webpage with all pdf manuals (for current models the guy asks for 10 usd donation)
Mikhail witch site?
Thanks for the video! My new clutch set has three 1.3mm metal plates. What's the logic for putting these thinner ones to the inside? Thanks
Great Video however still don't have have enough confidence in my mechanical abilities to do this. But Props to you.
Advise Please! My KTM 2018 xc-w clutch drags with the clutch lever fully pulled in to a point that if you lock up the rear it sometimes kills the engine. Thanks for all your videos. Peter
Has it always dragged? If not, the cause is probably air in your clutch hose (replace the fluid and bleed), or the clutch master seal needs replacing.
Excellent very well explained thanks
Brilliant video.
What do you think about using the Rekluse dampers I got them there a lot stiffer and there also thicker and they fit stock hub your vids are the best thank you for all of them I do everything to my bike with your vids helping me out
I'm currently using some Rekluse dampers. No problems so far. Others say they last longer that the stop dampers. Will see...
Really satisfying see u work 👌
Thanks for the video!
My manual (16 500EXC) says 80Nm (60ftlbs) for the clutch basket .... not 100 and no loctite
k kon - Yes, I had a 2013 500EXC and the manual spec was the same as your 2016. However, for my 2017 250 EXC it does state 100Nm and to use Loctite. Probably no issue using the lower torque setting though, especially with the lock washer...
Great cardboard tip, good mechanic.
Mark, I am rewatching the vid as I have problems with my clutch slipping for the second time - each time after approx 60 hrs the clutch was toast. I see in your vid, when you put the pressure plate it doesnt wobble. Mine does wobble (there is 0,5-0,8 mm gap between the pressure plate and last metal plate...and I wonder why that is - i was suspecting some bubbles inside my clutch line but I think I bled them out...really strange...and all the plates are within spec...
It doesn't sound normal for the pressure plate to wobble. I'd take the pressure plate off and inspect it for damage/warpage.
Great videos, keep them coming.
Nice video again! Is there any different feeling after changing the hub damper? Is there any way to know the wear of them before dissemble the basket?
I couldn't really feel the amount of play while riding the bike. If it got really bad you probably would though. Anyway, I think it's a good idea to change the rubber dampers once a year or so. If you have the tools it doesn't take long and the rubber dampers are relatively cheap.
When you talk about the sharp edge and the smooth edge of the steels, if you get one wrong, what would happen? I know I got my "s" plate in and faced correctly but am not 100% on my steel plate placement. After I replaced my clutch dampers and re-assembled, the clutch is working great. Is it worth inspecting again? Thanks!
If the steel plates are reversed you might experience slightly worse initial engagement after releasing the clutch (plates might stick a little). In most cases there may be no noticeable difference, but it's still good practice to orientate the steel plates with the sharp edges out.
so the adjustment on the belvil spring tensor would stop my clutch from being so grabby ??
Thank you! Do you know if the basket is supposed to have a little back and forth play? How would you check if the parts behind it need replacing? Also, i heard that since the dds, the clutch doesn't work properly until the oil is warmed up. Unless I warm mine up for 5-10 min, putting it in 1st just stalls the bike.
Yes, it's very usual to have some clutch drag when the transmission oil is still cold. I always cold start my bike in neutral, then once it's warmed up have no problem starting it in gear.
Regarding basket back and forth play, are you talking about the inner, or outer baskets? The inner basket is connected to the transmission and the outer basket is connected to the engine. Excessive play could be due to worn out bearings, or transmission wear. This should only occur after a high number of hours.
Tokyo Offroad Thank you for the reply, it is the outer basket, just a little back and forth like the gear's motion, not side to side. The bike has 300 hrs.
crs2crs2 - That sounds normal. Unless you’re having problems shifting, jumping out of gear, false neutrals etc I wouldn’t worry about it. For a high hour bike (500H+), when it comes time to replace/rebuild the crank it would be good to replace all the bearing in the transmission and inspect the transmission for issues.
None of the problems you mentioned, so good news. Thank you!
Great video, I’ve just done my clutch rubbers but my clutch still sounds very chattery when clutch lever is out. Should there be rotational play on the clutch basket? Any help would be appreciated, or are they just noisy
Maybe your clutch basket is worn. In the video at 9.37 I inspect the basket for wear: th-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/w-d-xo.html