KTM DDS Clutch Inspection & Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ย. 2024
- Correction- At 23:05 I discuss the belleville spring tensioner, but my description of the positions is the wrong way round. Position #1 will apply the most pressure and #3 the least pressure. Thanks to WTC for pointing this out...
Shows how to inspect KTM DDS clutch and replace the inner hub dampers and clutch plates.
2017 KTM 250EXC
KTM Clutch Kit Part # 54832011110
Tokyo Offroad Oil Drain Tool: www.tokyooffroa...
I did my first top end rebuild watching your videos and now I’ll be attempting my first clutch rebuild watching your videos! Thank you for the time and effort you put into these!
Pleased to hear that you are finding the videos helpful...
Probably the best how-to videos in TH-cam as far as KTM goes. Slavens Racing is good, but I think Tokyo Offroad has him beat. Excellent, your best video to date.
Love your no-nonsense instructional videos! Best I've found for my KTM.
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos
And yet another great video going into my "KTM maintenance" folder...Excellent.
Replaced my clutchpack today using the detailed procedure here. The info about checking the spring plate flatness primed me for when I discovered it was concave with the new plates, and I immediately knew what to do to rectify it. Spot on! Excellent video. (Also a member of Kansai Riders)
Thanks! Pleased to hear that you found the video useful.
some of the best instructional videos going cheers Tokyo Off Road👍
Just amazing. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you. This video increased my confidence. And I must say, WOW what a difference the new ones made. I just bought a ‘21 sxf 450 and had heard about this maintenance item so I ordered the Rekluse set figuring it may be due. So much smoother, quieter and best of all, no more chain slap rolling through the pits!! The chain slapping around was ridiculous.
The best instructional videos for maintaining a KTM. Great job!
So refreshing to see a video like this that pays attention to important details. Thanks Tokyo Offroad!
@ minute 20:36
I've got the same kit for my Husaberg 2013 Te 300.
I've measured the metal disks and found:
4 disks with 1.3~1.34 mm and only 3 with 1.4mm. I wonder if that's just a fabrication variation.
I've mounted the internal 1mm with the "S" mark as you mentioned, then 2x 1.3mm, then 3x 1.4mm in the middle, the other 2x 1.3mm and the top 1mm disk.
Tested the bike this weekend and worked just fine.
Great channel, great videos! Best regards from Brazil!
I love the attention to detail on your video. Makes rebuilding clutch packs less intimidating
Learned quite a lot. Very concise and easy to follow. 🎯
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful
Thank you for taking the time to do this. Very good instructor!
Thanks a million. All worked out perfectly. Appreciate the attention to detail. Even going make a tool from the old clutch plate...👍🙏
Pleased to hear that you found the video useful. The old clutch plate holder tool works really well so I can recommend making one...
Great video and very informative as usual, however it’s extremely difficult to take anything you say seriously after I watched your best modification video. My favorite was the power band! Please keep up the great vids.
Pleased to hear you enjoy the videos. The mods shown in the top 5 mods video are for unreal gains...
Just done this :) great help thanks, on this 250tpi 2018, one of the dampers had actually broken and worn right down uneven on one side!!
well done, 3 of my dampers were broken in two. the other 3 were spread out, lots of play. easy fix.
piuteben what does the bike do when those dampers need to be replaced?
I had dampers break from heat cycles in ktm that only had 40 hrs....good job Mark
Jerry Mangan - The time the dampers are sitting in the oil is also important. I think a good replacement interval is once a year, that way you should minimize any issues.
Thanks this was very helpful to watch before attempting myself. Few minor differences on my 2020 500 EXC-F. Manual says torque is 80NM and no loctite. Everything else was pretty much the same.
Thanks for the video. I never did that style of clutch before and I just bought a 2018ktm xcw 6 days. So the clutch design is very different than my 2008 KTM 200 Xcw.
Have you ever went to the point where the clutch started to slip ? Im just changing mine and will put in new rubbers from Recluse too. It has 265 hrs on it and still feels good, maybee a slight more drag than new. Im riding tecknical enduro and slip it a lot.
Personally I've had extremely good experience with the KTM OEM clutches and never had any slipping issues. I currently use the Recluse dampers as others have said they last longer. The clutch pack, fibers and steels, I don't know of anything better than OEM.
For the 1, 2, or 3 setting on the spring, is this adjusted by the factory for a specific bike, or can you change the setting based on preference? Such as using a lighter setting if you don't demand as much instant torque?
I have the same question.
Make note: clutch cover bolts, there are long sizes there. The shorter of the longer clutch cover bolts goes in by the starter. If you install the long one there it will not tighten the clutch cover. It bottoms out on the outer cases of the starter area. Learned that the hard way.
Damn boy! you are seriously detailed! You are the kind of person that would be working on my factory edition 450sxf. Good Stuff!
Best and most detailed videos. Thanks a lot for this from Brazil!
Will help me rebuild my Husaberg TE 300 2013 clutch
Pleased you found the video useful...
i like how u work, really nice
One of the best video for ktm... Hope you make rebuilding the engine👊👊👊
Another great tutorial, thanks for putting time into these videos.
I rebuilt my top end recently following your top end video, very helpful thank you.
Can you make a video on how to clean a bike properly. With 160 hours on your bike and mine has sixty mine looks like it's done 560 compared. Your swing arm looks new, mine is all stained from mud, same with my hubs.
The best videos on TH-cam for riding and mechanical tutorials.
Awesome work cheers from Australia.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Regarding cleaning, I don't really do anything special, other than clean it regularly (usually after every ride) and store the bike in the garage in a dry environment. I show how I clean my bike in this video: th-cam.com/video/MEeb81HS1Ec/w-d-xo.html
I didn’t pay any attention to the difference in steel plates thickness when I replaced mine, seems to be working. What happens if the steels are in wrong order (thickness wise)?
Nice vid I liked your cardboard template for the bolts ,I have 2 x 2007 450 sxf engines which we retrofitted the dds clutch into ,I really like this clutch over the earlier conventional spring clutch .cheersd
Excellent video. If I done this I could follow your video the first time and breeze through the job
Very great video, when I inspect my clutch pad, it's still more than 1.9mm, but it weared somehow forsure, should I move the bolt from position 2 to position 3? I think the clutch disk get thiner, thus the spring preload might get ligher in the same position. Am I correct?
What is the concern with the discolouration? Worried about it becoming brittle or warping? Looking at mine and likely coming up on needing to change the clutch pack. Great informative video!
David Thegan - Things to check for are heavy discoloration, hot spots and warpage. Discoloration indicates the plates got very hot. When I changed my clutch in the video it still worked fine and the fiber plates were still in spec. But due to the hours I thought it would be best to change the clutch pack anyway as I don’t want to have issues while riding.
Great tutorial, it guided me through the process. Thank you 👍🏾
Pleased to hear it helped...
Great video. Just one question. Should the clutch throw out shaft have a rounded end on the clutch side ?
Very well explained all along, with specs and tricks.
Excelente video! Muy claro y útil. Gracias por compartirlo.
Un saludo desde Argentina!!!
Wish our bike technicians took such care, one thing, my 2008 300xcw had over a 1000hrs on, never changed the clutch, my 2014 also sold with 360hrs no clutch issues, both bikes ridden on rough terrain with loads of clutch slipping and my 120 kg ass😂😂😂👊👊
Hi Mark! how are you? nice video! which are the possible failures or problems if your dampers needs replacements on the hub?? you show the hub has some play...what can happen if that occurs?
The rubber dampers are there to reduce shock between the transmission and crankshaft. The rubbers will slowly degrade over time, resulting in progressively more play. So long as the dampers have not totally broken up it shouldn't cause a real issue. Of course it's best to replace the rubbers periodically, before they break down.
Just used the video to replace my clutch and now it's working perfect! thanks Mark! :)
Nir Hason - That’s great. I’m pleased you found the video useful...
@@TokyoOffroad I must say that the most tricky part was tightening the 6 bolts of the belleville plate.
Interesting my OEM kit for my 2017 TE250 came with One 1.0mm S, Three 1.3mm, Three 1.4mm, and one 1.0mm. I wonder if they have updated the pack since you made this video. Measured with calipers and clearly shown different then your video
thanks for the good video! i need to do this today to my 300 tpi :)
Your TPI clutch should be exactly the same as the 2017 clutch shown in the video. Hope it overhaul goes well...
Awesome video - when I am going to change my clutch (which is soon), this will be my guide :-) Thank you.
My kit had 3 metal plates, too. But not in the same quantity as yours. I put my thickest plates in the middle, as my worn pack was the worst there. More metal = more heat capacity, I figure. So they're setup as 1.0-1.3-1.3-1.4-1.4-1.4-1.3.-1.3-1.0.
Did it work? I have the same problem as you and im gonna do the same thing
@@kallehelminen7196 yes
Fantastic demonstration
Thanks. Pleased that you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the video! My new clutch set has three 1.3mm metal plates. What's the logic for putting these thinner ones to the inside? Thanks
Im thinking about doing this with my own 500 exc 2016 with your video as a guide. If my plates is not the same thickness as yours, should i just go from thin to thick? Lovely video btw!
What kind of effect can loose rubber dampeners have on the bike? I just ordered a new set as mine are loose themselves. The bike feels like the clutch is dragging at mid-to-top end. After inspecting the clutch, this was the only item of notice.
Hello, you dont know, but you helped me a LOT. I was wondering if you know what is the difference with starting plate marked with S and the last one, both 1mm but different part number. Thanks
Greetings from Slovenia
@tokyooffroad Can you point me to a good place to find clear instructional video like yours for an older 4T KTM?
2010 450 XCW SD
Can't find any help anywhere. I believe those clutches all the same 2008-2012??
Pre-DDS.
Do you have a video of such?
Thank you for your consideration. I give you a 5star 10 out of 10 rating over others I have compared. Slavens is not as good!
Would the fiber thickness be the same on a 19 300i xcw? I just pulled my plates and the inner ring on the steel plates are black, fiber plates are 1.55-1.79mm thick. Can’t find the spec in my manual
Great video as always - used it to inspect and change my first clutch on my '16 300XC.
Interesting that although my metal discs measured 1.0mm on the inside and outside, the four discs (going inside to outside of the bike) after the "S" disc measured 1.3mm, and the remaining four discs measured 1.4mm.
My bike has less than 75 hours on it, but it has started slipping suddenly. The friction plates look good and appear to have little wear. The middle-metal plates are hued purple, and most of them show somewhat heavy wear marks. Sliding aside the rubber boot next to the clutch master cylinder, I noticed either corrosion or dried fluid.
Any idea which of these could be responsible for the slippage?
If the metal plates have become very hot (you mentioned they have become hued purple) they can distort and become prone to slipping. The other thing to check is the belleville spring is flat across the face as shown in the video and tensioned correctly.
i checked my spec on the belville spring it was around 0.35mm so out of spec, i have pulled the clutch apart to replace but the clutch plate thickness is basically identical to the brand new set ! , maybe i just need to change the belville spring to get the correct tension back onto the plates ?
Hello Tokyo Offroad
I have a Husqvarna 300 te 2017 . I am having a rough time with my clutch. It drags. I need to pull the lever all the way to the handlebar to disengage the clutch. And the bike keeps stalling all the time. It is worst in steep descents.
I bought the bike used and I think the previous owner had a rekluse on it and took it off before selling the bike.
I read on a dirt bike forum that the bellevile spring could solve the problem.
And I quote :
Posted January 6, 2017
"I had a horrible clutch dragging problem on my '14, the would stall with the lever pulled tight to your fingers. You could even dig a hole into the ground if you gave it gas. It essentially started engaging from just off the bars. The problem I noticed was that the pressure plate wouldn't lift evenly as the spring seemed to apply uneven pressure. I bought a new bellevile spring and bumped up the pretension it fixed the issue so that I can disengage the clutch with one finger and don't have to take all my fingers off the grip. If I remember correctly there is 3 different settings based on how you align the ring through which the bolts go.
"
Do you know something about it?
Is it possible to fix it with bellevile tensioner ? Position 1 maybe?
I would love to receive your comments on it.
Thank you very much
Ricardo Cuetara - My recommendation is to first change the clutch hydraulic fluid and ensure it is fully bled. Is the clutch slave the stock KTM one, or Rekluse? Also is the clutch lever stock? If possible return everything to stock and test. Once you’ve done that check to see if the clutch action is the same, or improved. If it’s still not right take lean the bike over to the left, remove the clutch cover and observe how the clutch moves when you pull the lever in. If you don’t see anything obviously wrong dissemble it and inspect the clutch. It should be exactly the same as the clutch in my bike, so you can compare the metal plate thickness dimensions to those noted in the video. Look out for warped and overheated plates. If replacing the clutch I highly recommend using a KTM OEM kit to avoid issue and ensure a long life.
@@TokyoOffroad
Thank you very much for the advice!!
I already changed the clutch hydraulic fluid. The clutch slave and the lever are stock KTM. I am going to proceed to remove the clutch cover and inspect the bike. The bike has a total of 50 hours on it. I would think the plates are in good condition.
It is great to have your videos on how to. More so because I have pretty much the same components. Thank you Tokyo and please keep them coming.
I will keep you inform on the outcome.
Cheers
Ricardo Cuetara have you solved that issue? I have the exact problem with dragging and i'm desperate now.
When you talk about the sharp edge and the smooth edge of the steels, if you get one wrong, what would happen? I know I got my "s" plate in and faced correctly but am not 100% on my steel plate placement. After I replaced my clutch dampers and re-assembled, the clutch is working great. Is it worth inspecting again? Thanks!
If the steel plates are reversed you might experience slightly worse initial engagement after releasing the clutch (plates might stick a little). In most cases there may be no noticeable difference, but it's still good practice to orientate the steel plates with the sharp edges out.
Great video! Which setting (1,2,or3) on the Belleville spring makes the clutch pull the lightest?
From 23:00 th-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/w-d-xo.html I explain the tensioner positions (Position 1= Less pressure (easiest clutch pull); Position 3= Most pressure (heavier clutch pull)). This information is correct for my 2017, but positions may be reversed on other models so best to check for your model...
My 2020 XC 300 TPI has a strained idle when not moving, in gear, no throttle and eventually stalls. It jerks the slightest bit when shifting from neutral to first but not a full on lurch forward with lots of wheel movement and it's really only noticeable if the bike is on a downhill slope. It does this whether cold or hot and it did it before it's first oil change and after its first oil change using the manufacture recommended Motrex oil. I read somewhere that it's just because it's a new clutch and that it will go away after a while. Also it did this since day one and I assumed KTM and the dealer wouldn't let this go out the door if it was an issues... I now have 20 hours on the bike. I got used to giving it a bit of throttle to keep it from stalling but a technical trail I was riding reminded me of this crappy issue. So if it is a wear-related problem and the clutch is still too new, with little wear (I don't ride super crazy), should I try running the bellevue-spring ring on position 1? My closest KTM dealer is not close at all. Last time I had it there for its 5 hour maintenance, they checked the idle and said it was fine. Not sure if they tried shifting it into gear or not.
Sorry to hear about the problem. I'm assuming the bike idles OK in neutral? Where does the clutch start to engage? With two fingers on the clutch lever it should start engaging just after the lever comes off your other fingers gripping the handlebar. If you need to pull the lever right to the bar to disengage the clutch something is not right. I'd also try using 675ml of transmission oil (Motorex TopSpeed 15W-50) rather than 800ml. This will help reduce clutch drag. I measured the amount of oil required in this video: th-cam.com/video/AhxQje0jFAM/w-d-xo.html.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks for getting back to me and sorry for the delay. Work has been really busy and I was thinking I could record a video of it, as it would probably be easier for you to see what it's doing. I'll try to get a video posted this weekend. I think it's idling fine in neutral but this is also my first two stroke so I'm not 100% sure. I've always thought the idle sounded a little low, but the shop said it was fine when I brought it in at 5 hours. It doesn't stall when idling in neutral.
How do i get one of those fancy Tokyo off-road oil drain tools? Looks like a compression tester fitting 😃.
Thank You Sir for your time, this video is perfect, very well done, congratulations. Best regards.
How important is the 648 loctite with it having a locking washer? Can't find that stuff anywhere! @tokyooffroad
In this application I definitely don't want any issues so I choose to follow the KTM recommendation and use 648. But I do agree that due to the lock washer it makes it unlikely that you'd have an issue even if you used other threadlockers.
Can I use Loctite 243 or 2701 instead of the 648, which I can't find?
Don't have any mechanical skills to work on your own bike? Just buy whatever bike Tokyo Offroad has so you can watch all the fantastic how to videos!
Outstanding! Thank you!
First I have to say great Video!! Helped me a lot... I have a 300 EXC 2015. Clutch is not 100% the same as yours but Looks similar. I done everything like you explained it in you Video.. but if I Pop the clutch for a wheelie as exaple it Slips... checked several times... changed the Spring from y to x and z but it won't get better.. Maybe you have an advice for me..
You fitted a new clutch pack and it started slipping? Or is it an old clutch pack? Check that your clutch lever is fully disengaging (Mikhail in the comments below had an issue where his lever was sticking).
Nice explained ! But still rubber for the damping ? My BSA from 1968 had also rubber dampers , and on 4000km they must be replaced ! Nothing has changed !
so the adjustment on the belvil spring tensor would stop my clutch from being so grabby ??
Brilliant video as usual. I have lost count of the amount of times I have referenced your videos while working on my bike. One question. What is the thickness of the fibre plates when new. To see what loss you occurred with them all reading about the same on inspection. Thanks
Hello love your vids could u tell me were do u get the we dampers from I'm goin 2 put a new clucth in my bike an want 2 put new dampers in 2 like u hav done here thanks.
Great video thank you for being so thorough
Thanks a lot for this. Really well done video.
Do U have schematic print out on ur homemade clutch tool for ktm 15 xcw 300 ? Or do U sell them. Great video by the way.tks
Hi there, what do you actually say at 23:36? 6, 16 or 60 Newton Meters? I'm sorry I can't get it. I hear 6 but it seems really light. Thanks
The spec is 6Nm. Yes, it's a low value...
Excellent video , nicely done !!
Unsure if the 300 is different, or its a error, but on the 4 strokes torque for the inner clutch hub nut is 80nM, not 100 as mentioned in the video. Pays to check the manual, like I didnt :(
Would bad damper's cause a knocking noise at idle with clutch out?
Advise Please! My KTM 2018 xc-w clutch drags with the clutch lever fully pulled in to a point that if you lock up the rear it sometimes kills the engine. Thanks for all your videos. Peter
Has it always dragged? If not, the cause is probably air in your clutch hose (replace the fluid and bleed), or the clutch master seal needs replacing.
excellent video. thanks for posting.
Another excellent video. My 2018 clutch seemed to be dragging, will adjusting the Bellville spring from II to I help? Next mod I'll be following is your idles screw video. Thanks
Clutch drag is common when the engine is cold. Does it still drag badly when warm? If so make sure that you're using the recommend oil grade and also not over-filling. If drag changed recently and became bad then it's probably air in the system (try bleeding), or the master, or slave needs rebuilding.
@@TokyoOffroad Appreciate your reply, thank you. Yes, using oil as per manual. Will double check I haven't over filled but it had a slight drag since new. My idle seems low and I haven't adjusted the bypass screw which can cause to stall on occasions when warm. Can I do harm if I adjust the Bellville from II to I? I'm yet to bleed the clutch. Thanks
Your videos are veery therapeutic :D thank you for great information here.
You mention 100 nm for the nut and Loctite, however the manual only says Loctite on the Primary Gear nut and 100 nm. The inner clutch hub nut says 80nm and nothing about Loctite for my 2014 450 SX-FE. Possible there is that much of a difference?
My 2017 KTM 250 EXC Repair Manual states on page 195: Nut Inner Clutch Hub 100Nm Loctite 648; Nut Primary Gear 150Nm Loctite 648. The technical data section at the back of the manual where all the engine torque settings are listed also states the same, so I don't think it"s a mistake.
Where can i get a set of foot pegs like the ones you have on?
My clutch steels has 3x 1.3 plates and the rest 1.4 do they still go in first
Excellent. Thank you for a great instructional video.
Can this clutch be retrofitted to pre 2012 bikes? Is it any quieter?
It seems some of the smaller newer bikes use a non damped version of this basket
There is a thread on KTM Talk (web forum) discussing this topic. Unfortunately it appears that a retrofit would be very difficult...
Great Video however still don't have have enough confidence in my mechanical abilities to do this. But Props to you.
Just found your channel. Have you ever done a complete motor rebuild video? Would be a great help of what all goes into it since KTM is very particular and uses a lot of special pieces unlike other bikes.
No, I haven't done a bottom end rebuild video yet. I'll be sure to make one when the chance comes up in the future...
Tokyo Offroad alright cool. If you do one, do it on your 2 stroke bike as that is what I plan on getting next season. All these videos help me prepare for what ill be doing to the bike if i get one.
Bottom ends on the KTMs typically don’t need anything done until 500H or more. My 2017 has done 260H now (in just under 2 years), so it’ll be a while longer...
Tokyo Offroad damn thats crazy. Whats your thoughts on a 2013/14/15 250xc motors? How reliable are they?
I figured out what "top" means on the 'washer", it means top side out, the top side is in contact with the DDS spring.
Yes, that's correct
Great video, I’ve just done my clutch rubbers but my clutch still sounds very chattery when clutch lever is out. Should there be rotational play on the clutch basket? Any help would be appreciated, or are they just noisy
Maybe your clutch basket is worn. In the video at 9.37 I inspect the basket for wear: th-cam.com/video/BeFNKS9Su1o/w-d-xo.html
Good stuff broda 👌
Pleased to hear that you enjoyed the video
How do you know all these small details? I have owners manual and even bought repair manual as well but there is no information about direction of plate "S" and other plates with sharp edges up etc. etc.
I noted the "s" plate orientation when I took it off the bike (s side was facing the basket. But I don't think the orienation of the "s" plate really matters as it doesn't move in the basket. All the other plates do move so the orientation is more important. The theory behind the plate orientation is that the sharp edge direction will be a little more difficult to move, so it's better to have the sharp edge out so it's acting against the hydraulic pressure when you force the plates apart, and there's a little less drag when you release the clutch and the plates are forced together by the bellville spring.
discovered why i fried the second clutch after 60hrs:
1) piston naturally moving out is correct - there is a spring inside that eliminates any freeplay in the clutch pushrod
2) I have the breakable lever and handguards attached directly to clutch/brake perch => the joint on the lever was getting stuck into the handguard plastic and upper piston was not fully returning which was constantly keeping the system under pressure...shame it took me 2 clutch kits to figure out
It's always a good feeling to find the cause of an issue. One reason I like using the Enduro Engineering Moto Roost handguards is that they mount separately and don't interfere with the levers at all. If you like open handguards they are definitely worth checking out and spares are available so you don't need to buy another full set if you break something. Also recommend checking out the Renthal Intellilevers which can dislocate during a crash.
Great tip for the bolts in the cardboarb👍
I used the clutch overhaul kit and when I finished fitting the spring was convex from the engine side, what should I do? I tried all 3 screw positions but nothing has changed
Sorry to hear about the problem. Please measure how far off from flat the belleville spring is (use a steel rule and feeler gauges).
Great tip on using the cardboard to keep track of which nut goes where, but I ran into a problem when replacing the stock with a Hinson cover. On the 18's or maybe part of a running change, instead of using a 55mm bolt for that one spot, they made the cover thicker there to act as a washer and use all 60mm bolts. Hinson didn't update the cover so my dumbass ran the bolt until it hit the starter and cracked the cover. Now it's bound up (even with the bolt backed out) and won't turn over.
Any ideas for freeing it up or will I need to replace parts of the starter?
Sorry to hear about the issue. My advice is to take the starter motor out, inspect it and figure out if the damage is something you can fix, or whether a new starter motor is required.
Thanks, went ahead and ordered the replacement, but will try to repair the old one and keep as a spare. Now i'm just trying to figure out how much of the motor I need to take apart to get it. I think I can just unbolt the engine from the mounts to get at the starter cover and the starter bolts on the clutch side, then hopefully be able to get the bendix off and the the screw that holds the starter on on the other side just by removing the alternator cover and not have to take the rotor off.
do you ever have any issues of the outer basket notching? 14 250xc, clutch has gotten very heavy and the basket has some very small notches starting
Last time I inspected my 2017 KTM 250 EXC the basket was still OK regarding notching (had done 360H). If you have notching on the outer basket then it's probably a good idea to replace the basket.
Ya I will at some point. Notching is pretty light still so I would like to try and get a little more life out of it
Weird that on the 2012-2016 250/300s it says to use 10nm on the clutch spring bolts and the clutch cover bolts and on the newer ones it says to use 6 and 8. I just stripped one of my clutch cover bolts either because of the 10nm or it was the wrong length.
Edit: So it turns out all of the bolts are supposed to stick out the same amount when fully unscrewed. One was really far in and one was far out. I switched them around and it worked fine, I tightened them to 8nm and the one I stripped had enough thread further down to hold that one. After I had stripped it the first time I would've left it except the bottom of my clutch cover was leaking oil.
thank you, best video replacement for sure!!!
What do you think about using the Rekluse dampers I got them there a lot stiffer and there also thicker and they fit stock hub your vids are the best thank you for all of them I do everything to my bike with your vids helping me out
I'm currently using some Rekluse dampers. No problems so far. Others say they last longer that the stop dampers. Will see...
Best TH-cam
Question - when reassembling the push rod and bearing are sitting prouder than in this video maybe like the push rod is in the extended position...when I put the pressure plate back on it does not sit back all the way. Is this normal? Can I just tighten the bolts and it will push the rod back in? PS - my son pulled in the clutch lever when it was apart - that might have caused this.
Duncan Morgan- Yes, pulling the clutch lever with the clutch disassembled will result in what you observed. When you reassemble the pressure plate/Belleville spring it should push the master back to the correct position.
@@TokyoOffroad Thanks so much for the quick reply and for all of the great work you do here. I really appreciate it.