This was my problem also, and was the last thing I did. DOT4 bled from the bottom up, syringe filled the bottom clutch piston to get rid of any bubbles, rebuild kit for the piston and spring release of the lever multiple times to get rid of the tiny air bubbles. I didn't notice mine was on Y instead of X. It was a huge distraction stalling on the technical downhills, the good news is I only lock up the back wheel when needed now. Thanks for the video!
The goal is to have a strait edge on the plate and you are looking for flat so it’s kind of a wear thing as the clutch plates wear down you make have to compensate but stock is 2 setting
Dude! Same story as you and everyone just keeps saying it’s normal. I even pulled all this apart measured my plates. Never noticed any numbers on this retainer plate. I probably put it back together wrong. I’m pulling it back apart tomorrow. Do you happen to know if your index bolt (where you line it up) has a mark or can it be indexed to any bolt?
I'm not sure. You'll have to open up the basket and see if your pressure plate has numbers or letters on it. Will either have, letters, numbers, or roman numerals. I don't think the 2015 had a Belleville spring type clutch. But pressure plate might still be adjustable
Simply use Motul V300 10W40 and the clutch drag is gone. Moving the pre tension screws reduces the pressure on the plates and may cause slipping. Your mod seem to indicate issues with the clutch actuation (air or mech. defect).
I tried all sorts of different lubes early on as well as bleeding the system, made no difference. The spring was still within spec when moved to screw 1, so there shouldn't be any issues. I rode it like that for the next 100+ hours of riding. Probably about 15 to races, 2 hard enduros on it without any problems. In any case, it's moved it back to screw 2 and now and still seems good. If anything maybe defective parts like you mentioned. Because I tried everything early on. Making that adjustment was only thing that worked
@@danhopkinson2811 yea, I definitely wouldn't suggest doing it simply to achieve an easier pull. Only reason I did it was because I had substantial drag to the point of stalling the bike. so clearly the clutch plates / drive plates weren't separating far enough on my bike for whatever reason. If you have no drag at all and everything is operating within spec, but you still moved it to setting 1 - I'm sure there would probably be some slippage.
@@sundaymorningrides9142 what oil are you using in the bike? mine is the 19 tpi 250 and takes the same oil in the transmission as the 4 strokes use in the engine
@@danhopkinson2811 I tried all different sorts when I was having the issues initially. Didn't matter if it was motorex 15w-50 or any other. I've been running Amsoil 10w-50 Dirt with good results
Im pretty sure, unless they were maybe defective from the factory. I bought the bike new and had this drag issue from hour 0 all the way through I think hour 20 or 30. Which is when I made the change and it had been all good ever since. I think a lot of ktm are just like this and I feel people who are doing non-technical riding might not notice it. For me I do a lot of slow hard enduro type riding. So important that when I'm stuck I can hold the clutch in and not have the bike stall.
Dont bother with the cardboard drawing, just stick the screws loose in the holes until they all stick out the same and then you know you have them right. Takes less time than poking holes in cardboard would
Possibly, but If it was bent steels, had to come from the factory like that as it was happening new from 0 hrs onward. But Holding a flat edge on each of the plates and didn't see any gaps. Changing to different hole set worked well
This was my problem also, and was the last thing I did. DOT4 bled from the bottom up, syringe filled the bottom clutch piston to get rid of any bubbles, rebuild kit for the piston and spring release of the lever multiple times to get rid of the tiny air bubbles. I didn't notice mine was on Y instead of X. It was a huge distraction stalling on the technical downhills, the good news is I only lock up the back wheel when needed now. Thanks for the video!
Glad to hear it
it doesn´t make sense pass from 3 to 1 position and get less dragging :(
Is the clutch cover on a exc 300 2014 a o ring or paper gasket
O ring
The goal is to have a strait edge on the plate and you are looking for flat so it’s kind of a wear thing as the clutch plates wear down you make have to compensate but stock is 2 setting
Dude! Same story as you and everyone just keeps saying it’s normal. I even pulled all this apart measured my plates. Never noticed any numbers on this retainer plate. I probably put it back together wrong. I’m pulling it back apart tomorrow. Do you happen to know if your index bolt (where you line it up) has a mark or can it be indexed to any bolt?
I don't think it matters which bolt - just the hole number you choose. Also, it might be numbers, letter, or roman numerals - depending on year
Clutch drag for me its not normal mi ktm brand new did not have any clutch drag at all when changed oil it became a problem
LoL needing to make a card board cut out for your bolts is comical. You forgot to say Pro tip before you showed U tube land that!
Same for a 2015 ?
I'm not sure. You'll have to open up the basket and see if your pressure plate has numbers or letters on it. Will either have, letters, numbers, or roman numerals.
I don't think the 2015 had a Belleville spring type clutch. But pressure plate might still be adjustable
Simply use Motul V300 10W40 and the clutch drag is gone. Moving the pre tension screws reduces the pressure on the plates and may cause slipping. Your mod seem to indicate issues with the clutch actuation (air or mech. defect).
I tried all sorts of different lubes early on as well as bleeding the system, made no difference. The spring was still within spec when moved to screw 1, so there shouldn't be any issues. I rode it like that for the next 100+ hours of riding. Probably about 15 to races, 2 hard enduros on it without any problems. In any case, it's moved it back to screw 2 and now and still seems good.
If anything maybe defective parts like you mentioned. Because I tried everything early on. Making that adjustment was only thing that worked
Found this very helpful
This fixed my 2023 te300 clutch drag issue and my buddies 2023 tx300 clutch drag issue as well!
Nice!
oh hell yas ima try this tomorrow its been a headache
@@sundaymorningrides9142
Good video🤙.
Be interesting to hear if you noticed what type of different feel between the 1 2 & 3 positions at the lever
Cheers
It's pretty dam near the same. I want to say at 1 it was slightly easier pull. But it's so close, I really can't tell
@Allfush the clutch pull will be slightly lighter on setting 1. can cause clutch slip though as you're reducing pressure on the clutch plates
@@danhopkinson2811 yea, I definitely wouldn't suggest doing it simply to achieve an easier pull. Only reason I did it was because I had substantial drag to the point of stalling the bike. so clearly the clutch plates / drive plates weren't separating far enough on my bike for whatever reason. If you have no drag at all and everything is operating within spec, but you still moved it to setting 1 - I'm sure there would probably be some slippage.
@@sundaymorningrides9142 what oil are you using in the bike? mine is the 19 tpi 250 and takes the same oil in the transmission as the 4 strokes use in the engine
@@danhopkinson2811 I tried all different sorts when I was having the issues initially. Didn't matter if it was motorex 15w-50 or any other. I've been running Amsoil 10w-50 Dirt with good results
th-cam.com/video/XtjGM1w84Qk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AJ4t_uvMKcrOc2_8
Are you sure it’s not the clutch dampers that’s the issue?
Im pretty sure, unless they were maybe defective from the factory. I bought the bike new and had this drag issue from hour 0 all the way through I think hour 20 or 30. Which is when I made the change and it had been all good ever since.
I think a lot of ktm are just like this and I feel people who are doing non-technical riding might not notice it. For me I do a lot of slow hard enduro type riding. So important that when I'm stuck I can hold the clutch in and not have the bike stall.
Dont bother with the cardboard drawing, just stick the screws loose in the holes until they all stick out the same and then you know you have them right. Takes less time than poking holes in cardboard would
You probably have warped steals.
Bent steels.
Possibly, but If it was bent steels, had to come from the factory like that as it was happening new from 0 hrs onward. But Holding a flat edge on each of the plates and didn't see any gaps. Changing to different hole set worked well
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