How To Install the Daniel Defense MFR Handguard
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2023
- The MFR Rail System is a full-length, free-float, M-LOK® handguard for the AR-15 from Daniel Defense. The MFR's mounting system is pretty similar to other Daniel Defense handguards, but it requires a few tricks. Brownells Gun Tech™ Caleb Savant shows us exactly how to install it. The MFR is designed to fit a standard mil-spec AR-15 upper receiver. It will also fit a machined billet upper that is cut to mil-spec dimensions at the front (Caleb shows us where).
TOOLS: You'll need the (1) barrel nut wrench, (2) ball-tip hex wrench, and (3) tube of thread-locker that came with the MFR Rail. You'll also need (4) a bench vise, (5) an adjustable torque driver, (6) the Midwest Industries Upper Receiver Rod or similar device to hold the upper receiver in the vise, and (7) Brownells Action Lube Plus® or similar high-quality gun grease.
PHASE 1: Use the Upper Receiver Rod or a vise block to clamp the receiver securely in the vise. Put a little Action Lube Plus on the barrel extension, slide the barrel into the receiver, and put a dab of grease on the barrel extension's front shoulder. Get the mounting plate that has tabs protruding from one side and insert the bolts through the holes from the tab side. Slide the plate over the barrel, with tab side facing TOWARD the receiver. Apply some lube to the threads of the barrel nut, slide it over the barrel, and hand-tighten it onto the receiver. Tighten the barrel nut the rest of the way using the Daniel Defense wrench and your adjustable torque driver set to about 35 ft.-lbs.
PHASE 2: Slide the other MFR mounting plate over the barrel with the INLETTED side facing the bolts (flange side toward the muzzle) and press it up against the first plate. The bolts will go through the holes in Plate #2. Install your gas block and gas tube. You'll know you have the MFR plates properly oriented if holes line up to allow the gas tube to slide into the receiver! Slide on the handguard up to the bolts. Put a little thread-locker on each bolt. Use the hex wrench to snug up the bolts. Don't tighten them all the way yet......
PHASE 3: Check for gaps between the handguard, the mounting plates, and the front of the receiver. If everything's snug, tighten the bolts the rest of the way. There's no specific torque setting. Just make 'em tight enough so the MFR is securely anchored with no wobble or play.
DONE: Your Daniel Defense MFR Rail System handguard is properly installed on the upper receiver. It's time to add your chosen muzzle device and whatever accessories you want to put on the MFR!
NOTE: Products in this video are to be used only for lawful purposes, including hunting, self-defense, and competitive or recreational shooting. If you purchase any of them, you are responsible for understanding and complying with all federal, state, and local laws that apply to the purchase, possession, and use of these products. - กีฬา
There are a lot of folks showing you how to do stuff on the internet, but I like watching you best. You use the best parts and tools and have the best haircut.
Caleb is the quintessential pro. I am the quintessential doofus. Without his guidances, I would have never attempted this mod.
Thanks Brownells. Thanks Caleb.
Caleb can build an AR in 5min 30 secs flat, from the aluminum stock to hammer forging the barrel
Without ever bursting into cussing at any point. A near impossible task.
That handguard would look good in Wolf Gray Aluma-Hyde
Thanks for the video, I recently purchased a DDM4v9 , and quickly discovered that my iron sites would not co-witness to The HWS without adjusting windage all the way to one side, after watching your video I decided to loosen the hand guard and basically reinstall using the star pattern as shown paying close attention to the alignment with the muzzle end of the barrel which solved my problem , now everything lines up perfectly. Thanks again
What a marvelous how-to video. Multiple points were important for me. The receiver rod - had never seen one before, and after all my struggles trying to secure a firearm for barrel/handguard work . . . This hand guard is a MUCH smarter design than that one that came with my extra expensive Wilson Combat rifle (pre-COVID). That barrel nut had to be torqued a ridiculous amount of get the next opening for the gas tube to line up.
Thanks! If you want to be technical 90 degrees would be correct, but honestly it makes absolutely no difference here. The torque range for an AR15 barrel nut is approximately 30-85ft/lbs, which is a very wide range and we are usually torqueing non-indexing nuts about 40ft/lbs, the difference that an inline vs. 90 degree wrench gives us at an extreme case is no more than a few ft/lbs. (Other factors play into this as well, such as distance from driver to tool contact point on work piece, etc.)
Fantastic, Caleb! Thanks for posting.
Nicely done. Wish this had been available when I installed this handguard.
Amazing video! Now I know some more about choosing tools for building/upgrading an AR-15. Thanks for the demo!
These videos are so relaxing… gun asmr
I love this channel! You guys are what inspired me to build my own! Thank you for you knowledge! Definitely learned a thing or two!
You have to install that qd point over one of the existing holes for it to be usable. This makes all the other points unusable, unless you buy more of the qd points, and they are never in stock.
Excellent tutorial as always. Thank you for reminding everyone that when it comes to Loctite, a little goes a long way. Same can be said about anti-seize compound. Also not to over torque. Interesting how smiths seem to be split on the position of torque wrench on barrel nut wrench. Some say 90, some say in line. I have done both and haven't seen a noticeable difference.
There really isn't an argument about barrel nut wrench position. The reason to put it at 90 is to prevent over torquing. When you put it in line, you're extending the torque wrench leverage and pivot point. You're essentially adding leverage and working outside the torque wrenches calibrated length. When the wrench is at 90, you are applying torque at a similar length.
@@maddoxinc1642 both work about the same. Whether you are at 90 or in line, the distance between the center of the nut and center of the drive on the torque wrench does not change. So either way you are applying more torque than indicated by the wrench. There is a simple formula for calculating the torque applied. Then again, the torque range on the barrel nut is so broad that it's difficult to make a mistake.
@@unclebob540i3 I don't think it matters to be honest. That barrel nut gets hot and cold so much that it'll loose spec anyways. Just get it close enough and it should be good.
@@maddoxinc1642 I agree, spec is 30-80 lbft. That is a huge ballpark, as long as the barrel nut is within that range there won't be an issue.
Please start a class action suit when you get the boot!!!! Love your channel a lot 💗!!!
Thanks!
Nicely done. Thank you. And nice manicure.
And add a rag to the needed tool list.
Other than that minor oversight, Great How-to video.
Clean is the way 👍
Thanks bro 😊
That rail is a MFR to get on.
That handguard is 🔥🔥🔥 Every handguard should mount up just like this one! DD did it again! 👍 Just wish they didn't cost so much! $300 handguard is a lot of ammo 😂
So I do have a question about the handrail. What is the part number for the one used on AR-10?
can you do a video showing how to replace the MFR rail with the DDM4 rail ?
I'm still learning, so just asking to understand; why are you not using anti-seize compound when you secure the barrel nut to the upper receiver?
If you want the barrel nut to loosen over time use anti-seize compound. Its in the name "anti-seize" meaning easy to take apart again. Unless you plan to change barrels regularly you actually want the barrel nut to seize so it doesn't back off and come loose.
Do you have to worry about head spacing if the barrel comes with the barrel extension pre-installed?
Can we install this handguards to a DD MK18 ? Thank you
will this install on the m4a1 r3 rifle?
Haha I spotted that he had the wrench on there wrong. He had it oriented for loosening the bolt, that was why he had to switch it. It's an easy mistake to make. Basin wrenches for installing faucets and even pipe wrenches works the same way, where you have to flip it to make it pull the other direction. My UTG SuperSlim Pro uses a similar proprietary barrel nut wrench.
You should take some brake cleaner or acetone, with a paper towel and degrease both the male and female threads. Hardware usually has a little bit of oil on it from the factory and degreasing will make the threadlocker work better.
Wish the mk18 uppers were in stock from you...
THIS is why I will tend to always say an AR is better than an AK.
My AK has a cracked front trunnion. I can’t fix it myself and not a single local shop wants to touch it. I’d have to pay an FFL about $100 to get it sent out and then about another $100 to get it sent back AFTER I pay someone a few hundred to do the work AFTER I source a front trunnion to swap.
My AR-15s, I am fully confident I can build and maintain/repair them in my own home with simple tools albeit custom/proprietary. But at least I don’t need rivets and a press. 😂
Is there a reason why you didn't season the threads while installing the barrel nut?
Because seasoning a thread will remove any burs from the machining process. While it sounds like a good idea. In this case you actually benefit from not seasoning the treads as the tolerance will be tighter and it will help prevent the nut from backing off. You want the nut to go on tight.
@shanemartin92 so by not seasoning the threads on a barrel nut acts as a kinda "lock washer" in a way?
@@ericward9159 Yes. It holds better because there is still grit between the fresh threads from the machining process. The logic applies to all threads. The more times you thread something on a tread the more it wears in requiring less forces to tread back off. Seasoning is not your friend in this situation. If the barrel nut is torqued properly no grease, oil, thread locker or anti seize is required.
Can you reuse a gas block and gas tube from one bill to another?
Absolutely
Starting to look like a LaRue upper. Interesting.
What size of hex wrench
What QD studs do you recommend for the DD's QD points?
The answer is just use paracord and forget about qd
That AT4 tho
TH-cam auto-subtitles seems to think your torque wrench wasn't made in America.
awesome content very educational: what ever happened to the larger inner diameter Mlok handguards. the newer slim mlok handguards suck. especially for those of us with a larger grip
You might want to go with Aero if that's what you like.
@@Pyreleaf aero is garbage
The newer slim m lok handguards are fantastic. Lighter, more sleek, and they work better with hybrid/clamp style grips using a vertical foregrip.
@@KeepTheGates okay bud, you're a party of one with that opinion, but you do you 👍
Define "larger" because I lot of manufacfures have "SD" type handguards that are able to tuck a 1.5" dia suppressor inside making their OD* larger by default.
Will y’all be making a rumble channel soon?
Don't plan on it, we redesigned our webpage to be more content focused and are hard launching it soon.
@@brownells Which deleted all my lists in my profile I had made over the last 15 years. Bummer.
Hi,
You didn't mention or discuss anything about the Barrel Install Head Spacing??
Ty
This is specifically about the handguard, we have covered the how to properly install barrels and check headspace in other videos specific to that topic as well, the most in-depth guide can be found in our AR build series available on our webpage.
@@brownells Ok WOW Ty for the Rapid Response. Perhaps the in Depth how to in the separate video is fine. But the Mention of the Necessity of in this Video is an Entirely different Matter!
Link to that other video please?
Ty
J
@@allphaseelec5738 use spec parts and don't worry about it.
Will this handguard fit silencerco upper?
Yes
Top rail of the hand guards a tad low compared to the upper and left to right is off
The height is flush, there is a bit of a gap but that is intended but it is because of that gap and the camera angle that the height looks off.
@@CalebSavant I call that an optical confusion.
@@dougdouglass1248 obstacle delusion
Do you guys have a Ruger precision rifle 6.5 barrel in stock.
Why do you retards ask questions like this instead of going to their website?
@@longrangeautist6117 why do you retards give a shit!
Lol. Good job, retard. You really showed me. Now you don’t have an answer AND you’re still a retard.
@@longrangeautist6117 well actually I did get my answer hand delivered to me without searching the website, all in 5 minutes at the same time wasted 5 minutes talking to you LOL.
These handguards are extremely difficult to be aligned up/down left/right with the stripped upper. Even if you use a tool or a scope mount to bridge the upper and handguard. If you are using ironsights you will never have them aligned enough to where the rear peep sight is in the middle of the sight. Always end up either way to the left or to the right.
they dont align with the upper they align with the barrel nut. just like any other free float hand guard.
You are trying to align too early in the process, tighten down everything, back off half a turn then align and final torque.
@@CalebSavant He has spoken, I knew I was missing something. Still skeptical about these though. Went kac and never looked back.
@@mcaque no worries! Both are great setups. Can't go wrong with kac.
Upper receiver top rail doesn’t match up even with the hand guard top rail or am I just seeing shit?
You forgot the most important tool of them all, a angle grinder because DD makes their low profile gas blocks impossible to remove from the factory
No dimple? No pinned gas block?!
I'm getting serial killer video from dude
Good vid, pos product
Ok so let’s talk about what’s going on in that open safe behind him there. Is that an AT4 rocket launcher??
Is this legal and morally ethical to watch such witchcraft?
Shhhhh
Straight to jail
I was wondering that myself...look out for the SS.
They are privileged over the rest of us peasants..
😂 go straight to TH-cam jail. Do not pass Go, do not collect any money.
This guys a proudboy 😮
DD would not send that out like tbat
Dude used less grease on the gun than he did his hair.
Just remeber kids... If at first it don't fit?! Break out the Bastard File, and go to grinding! Get'r done!
They named it the mothereffer? 🤣😭
Wow. Brutal comments🤣
Good. Stick with this stuff and forget the fru fru crap....
Good video, but that handguard is too big.
You look just like Robbie rotten from lazy town same haircut and all 💀
I sold my DDM4V7 because this handguard was so bad
Is it just me or does everything in this video look like it’s from 1970
I came up with an easier version. I think of all types of firearms/parts/accessories. Ugh I should’ve been an engineer
I noticed you didn't set the head space.
Seems a bit over complicated.
Lol this is easy compared to handguards you have to "time".
@@christiandruan
I have to time my Aero handguard and it is nowhere near this complicated. "timed" just means you stop the nut when its on a grove. This is easy to do by eye and takes seconds. For instance. My torque specs are 35-60lbs. I just tighten to 35pounds and then set the torque wrench to 60 and tighten until its aligned. THe wrench makes sure I don't over tighten. Then taking the handguard on and off is a 20 second job
@@ToxicGamer86454 That's more complicated and more involved than torquing it to spec and then tightening 4 screws lol
@@christiandruan
Why do you keep laughing uncontrollably? You need to seek psychiatric help.
Install? Not on youtube for kids. Might have to consider content uploads to Rumble 😂
It'll be on our new website.
@@brownells When is the new website going live? Roy Hill mentioned last year on Gun Talk Radio that it should be live soon so just wondering when.
@@brownells I hope the new website is better. Irritating to only use 25% of my monitor as currently configured.