Same here. I think I either heard it for the first time or forgot. I lived in the area for a couple of years. But somehow didn’t think about you speaking the dialect ;)
22:25 That's right! Even though there is a thousand videos on the 29.5 deg compound setting. My 1942 Machinist Hand Book says it's A-OK to feed straight in.
Stefan I love the videos a lot. I work as a manual machinist and watching your videos (along with Abom79 and This Old Tony) have taught me quite a lot about machining. Thank you for the great content and for the education
This video was just a perfect combination of narration/explanation, ASMR machining footage, and 4x footage for repetitive tasks. And a big +1 for the German vocab! Mehr, bitte!
Always a pleasurable way to spend time watching the latest activity from the GTWR secret mountain lair, sorry, workshop. Just a marvellous viewing experience. I must sharpen up my rotten editing skills....
Thank you for showing everything and not skimping on information. I've been planning "for ages" to get some small lathe as a hobby. Haven't really used lathe or machined in 20 years and about all was at school. It's interesting to see actual skilled workers and their solutions and I specifically enjoy seeing creative solutions like that grinder mounted on tool post. Two thumbs up!
very nice work as per usual Stefan, I myself use the same method of coring out stock. I can't tell you how many times I've used the cores for other parts.
I have just stumbled across your channel amazing work! I have been a machinist for about 25 years now. I work in the die industry. It's always rewarding for me to watch another machinist work that knows what their doing. Keep up the great work!!
I *was* wondering why you needed to beef up the thread, thanks for the explanation at the end👍 - Thanks also for adding in some German phrases to add to the educational aspect of your videos!
CNMG-431/2 inserts were always my go to insert for turning work. Even in lathes as small as a Hardinge or even small hobby bench lathes. Of course as you go down in power the depth of cut and feed need to be considered. One thing I always liked about the Hardinge lathes was the variable speed DC motor on the feed drive*. It was very easy to dial the feed rate in for good chip control. Unfortunately there are certain materials that just do not break the chip no matter what you do. *a great modification for any bench lathe as is a Single Tooth Reversing Dog Clutch for threading.
our TOS SV18RA lathe has that single tooth dog clutch for threading.... threading became really easy with it... it also comes with a little lever on the toolpost which allows you to retract around 10mm out of way, so you don´t have to mess with your crosslide handwheel... it´s stock thing, but I always loved it
@@piter_sk Is it just one direction or both ways. It's one of those things that probably does not add that much cost to the lathe considering they can eliminate the Thread Dial assembly. And the retract lever on the compound. That was something Hardinge had also. One thing people do not seem to understand about setting up gearing for cutting any thread form be it Inch, metric, Module or Diameteral Pitch is it's all about the ratio between the leadscrew and the spindle. If the leadscrew is say 4mm for the pitch and you need to cut a 1.5mm pitch the ratio is 1.5÷4 or .375. Or if there is a QCGB and the leadscrew is say 4TPI. Then cutting a 8TPI thread requires a .5 ratio. I've looked into building my own gearbox for threading and determining the gearing in the selector box is not that hard. And yes a single tooth reversing dog clutch was include. But the STRDC must run the same speed as the spindle. Otherwise they won't repeat.
No , your absolutly not a lazy person !! Impossible when you make such cool stuff , and makes beautifull videos of it ! greetings from the netherlands your budy Johny Geerts
Stefan. This is some wonderful work. Only you can come up with a 45 minute video for cutting threads and you have me focusing hard on it and learning something in every frame. Thank you!
I made a dedicated 30mm holder for my annular cutters which fits in the Multifix holder. ie, taking the MT2 out of the system. (The other end of the 30mm holder has an 18mm socket for my boring bars, ie the ones that fit the UPA3)
I've been admiring this silent running of Stefan's Maximat as well, as mine is nothing like as quiet as this. What oil do you fill the headstock with mr. Gotteswinter? Probably my gears are simply more worn...
Thanks Stefan 👍 It is always a pleasure watching you do prototyping, and machine upgrades, and ‘acquiring’ cool machines, and….. the list goes on 🤣 Regards Robert
Hi Stephan. I really enjoy your videos. They are instructional and step by step just like I like to watch. Also you have the uncanny ability to communicate and teach both professionals and non professionals at the same time. You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your journeys.
Making your own toolpost spindle would be an interesting project. I'm drawing up plans to make one for our lathe based on off-the-shelf shafts, bearings and other parts intended for cheap 3D printers and routers and the like.
17:38 One of these days we will need a gruesome, special.effects laden video about the background of how all these safety precautions came to pass. _"Staplerfahrer Klaus hat auf Dreher umgeschult"_ _"High Impact Hand Safety vol. II: Surviving Edged Chuck Jaws"_
Yesssssss! Im here to get my brain sharpened, thank you for all the german/english translations, I genuinly try to mimic them every time i hear one. And also...thanks for all the machining stuff too of course. Cheers from vermont
Stefan, thanks for sharing this (and editing and whatnot) ! I have now for some time adopted a habit to not to knock the workpiece to seat it into the jaws. Instead I push it either with something in the toolpost or in the tailstock and then tighten the jaws. This is because I have had difficulties with the workpiece jumping away from the jaws when knocking it. I know it is something that happens if You knock it too hard. With pushing this does not happen.
That's probably why he used a hammer with animal hide on it (dampening the blow) while also having the part tightened a tiny bit before using the hammer.. there should be no spring-back if you do it that way.
What an interesting project. I used to have to hand file blunt start threads quite often. It was a job i hated. Here in England we called it "half dogging " a screw thread.
Another excellent video Stefan. And thanks for the free hearing tests at 7m32s and 11m35s. As a musician it was quite reassuring to confirm I still have pretty good high frequency hearing 🙂
Auf so eine Idee muß man erst mal kommen. Weiter so! Du hast Grips, geschickte Hände und offensichtlich Spaß dabei. Diese Kombi sollte sich irgendwann mal so richtig auszahlen! Ich würde es Dir von Herzen gönnen! - Grüße aus DD!
"Some people say it work hardens, I say your tools get dull"...hahahahaha...I needed a good laugh today!..now I'm inspired to make a crude hopper funnel (no threads) out of aluminum for my coffee grinder. Thanks for the video. PS: now i have to go inspect all my bottles...
The range of tensile strengths for 304 in Stefan's chart provides a woeful telltale -- given that the analysis does not vary, it can only arise from strain hardening.
Great video! Sequence of operations, work-holding, deburring..........."a problem well-defined is a problem 90% solved". Thanks for sharing. Question/comment: What material will the mating threads be made from? Some kind of glass reinforced, injection molded polymer, I hope? It's been my experience that 304 stainless (SS in general) galls badly, to the point of locking up, over time when mated with aluminum or stainless steel threads.
Yes, getting stainless screws that have galled on the threads can be a real pain in the kiester. Sometimes you need to drill out to just over the root diameter of the screw and take the thread out with a needle nose. Just make sure you are dead nuts to the center of the screw and tapped hole. On assembly we always used Anti Sieze and ran a tap into the holes. And throughly cleaned the holes out. I would have preferred to run in a form tap but they didn't want to spring for them.
@@mvadu Thanks! I didn't realize the cap assy. was a functional prototype. I thought it was more of a 3D-printed assembly model, a just for "look and feel" sort of thing. Cheers, F.C.
omg, stainless galling - I made huge adjustment screws with 25x1mm thread, probably 250mm long at one point - And I was running the threadgage along the screw, to check for fit over the entire length. It took very a lot of Oil, back and forth to get the threadgage off again, without damaging the part or gage. (that was 303 stainless)
@@StefanGotteswinter Common ultra-high vacuum hardware: stainless steel nuts, stainless steel bolts, stainless steel washers clamping stainless steel flanged pipe connections. Galling everywhere. Antiseize is messy, which is painful or unacceptable. A common partial solution is silver plated bolts. Silicon bronze nuts and washers work much better whenever you can get away with them.
Stefan, real nice work, real nice video again. Thank you for sharing! One question; you preloaded the soft jaws on a piece of round stock clamping on the inside. You use the claws clamping on the outside. Shouldn't you use a ring preloading the soft jaws in the same direction as the part is clamped? Curious about your answer. All the best, Job
Ich muss gestehen, als ich das Gewinde gesehen hab und dann das mit der Gaskartusche, hab' ich mir gedacht, das dass eine echte Rohrbombe werden könnte wenn man da zu lange 'sprudelt'. Aber beim Kickstarter steht zum Glück, dass es ein Druckablassventil gibt. Interessantes Projekt
Thanks for the excellent teaching lesson. Using the tool post grinder/router to cut down the web of the thread was interesting. I always take away new ideas !
I love watching your work, its so far away from my level but its fantastic to know what can be done with the knowledge and gear. Really appreciate the effort it takes to make these video's
3:25 In my experience drilling 304-stanless, you must keep a chip going. If it ever "rubs" (no chip) it's very hard to press through. Often I would change the angle of the twist drill To pointier then flatter until I break through the hard stuff, then re-sharpen as normal.
Nice video, always learn something new from you. One remark. You are cutting 3mm pitch thread, and your leadscrew is also 3mm, . This means that you don't need to have always closed half nut. You can engage leadscrew at any position. It will always be in alignment... Seems easier, and can be more relaxed when cutting it...
Stefan mentions that possibility, at about 24:20, but he mentions that due to habit (muscle memory) he prefers to stick to what he calls the "European" way, keeping half nuts engaged and backing up. To me it is not so much European as "metric", as metric leadscrews make it unfeasible to disengage the half nuts, even when doing metric threads which are not a whole multiple of the leadscrew pitch. This arises because of the way pitch is defined (with the length unit as the numerator -- rather than the length unit as a denominator, with value of 1, as in tpi. If metric threads were denominated in "threads per dm" rather than "mm per thread", a threading dial would obviously be viable. It's about the one indisputable advantage I can think of attached to the inch system, and it's why at least one metric lathe manufacture decided to use tpi leadscrews on all their manual lathes -- the one I'm aware of being CMT on their Ursus range -- as it makes the provision of a dual language gearbox simpler, both mechanically and operationally. Of course with CNC, the problem dissolves. One French lathe manufacturer (Caseneuve) came up with a threading dial for metric threadcutting, but while characteristically brilliant, it was outrageously complicated. There was also an English third party attempt, branded Ainjest, IIRC, which never really caught on.
Hi Stefan, When cutting soft jaws, in my experience it is better to clamp the jaws in the orientation you will be tightening the job in. So if you are gripping in a bore you would clamp the jaws with a ring on the outside of the jaws, this will eliminate any backlash in the scroll and jaws. Best wishes, Mal.
50 extra credit points for using the term Kitty wampus... Probably one of my all time favorite words to describe a very special situation. Not to be confused with Fubar of course... lol. I'll let you google that one if you dont know it already. Cheers
Yeah, i can see why product that goes pop and launches water and cap would fail, but this thread solution looks expensive. Some variation of power tool box style locks would be fine, it could release pressure when partially unlatched and only after that it would come off and that would take mass production friendly components, possibly made from 2mm thick wire like in fancy jars
I use a lot of 304 because it's what my local supply house carries. They have a very limited selection. It takes a bit of getting used to, it's not the best cutting, but it's nice once you get used to dealing with it and you can get nice finishes out of it.
Yes, in my youth it was always easy to get 303 as well as 304 (the former machines a lot more easily, and in particular is much nicer for tapping) but now everyone seems only to stock 304 (because it can be welded, and it halves their inventory). So i tend to go to the extra expense of 316 which machines about as well as 303 (the price differential is no longer crippling as it once was, so I guess it's actually a good change)
I do hope your customer sells a million of these; the setup costs seem to be considerable. Thank you for explaining what the the threads are for; I was certainly puzzled.
That's what CNC is for. Start with DOM or cast material. But if you are going to be making a million of them a dedicated multispindle indexing lathe such as a Cone-a-Matic might actually be faster. Time is money. I used to know a guy with a 2 or 3 person shop. He had a Cone-a-Matic set up specifically for doing the nose caps for 5" naval shells out of bar stock. One index of the machine and the parts were cut off and finished.
When I watched this initially comments were turned off.. For the thread start, I've kind of come up with the same solution, haven't actually made my spindle adapter yet though.. Well done! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! Your inside and outside chamfer tool, I'm guessing it's just a shop made carbide blank?
Thanks! Yes, I fortgot to turn the comments on, when I put the video live. The chamfer tool is just a 8mm carbide blank, split in half, ground to 90° and relieved.
I had to provide a Higbee (blunt) start on my hardened Myford Super 7 headstock spindle, because I had garked it (long story)., and I came up with the same approach, doing it with a toolpost grinder and turning the leadscrew by hand. It made a perfect job. I had to do it in another Myford, running the spindle in a fixed steady protected from grinding dust by taping several pairs of knickers in turn over the steady and to the spindle (which only had to turn about 180 degrees). I had to do it like this because the Super 7 was disassembled at the time for a "like new" refurbish (and because I won't grind anywhere near the S7) It is much nicer changing chucks with a blunt start thread. The Myford register is also preferable to the Southbend/Boxford proportions, as it engages before the thread does.
Think about thermal differences between bottle and cap. You will need some clearance on the threads. And for convenience chamfer the thread for easy engagement. Double helix threads are more convenient as simple threads as they will engage every half turn instead of full turn. Something you allways will twist out of your wrist.
Is preloading the jaws using a part inside the jaws a good idea when you're going to be gripping on the outside? I'd think that the deflections would not be representative of the final use. A ring for preloading would be better. I'm sure it's more than good enough for most work.
"Some people say 304 stainless work hardens, I say your tools get dull."
Spot on, Stefan. I keep watching to hear gems like this. 👍
Your generosity in sharing your skills is educating a whole generation of budding machinists...Thank You.
It’s even more valuable to the none machinists.
100% agree. Too good to be true
your profile Photo got me hypnotized...lol
Amen to that!
32:38 "The difference between the expert and the beginner is the expert knows when to stop!" Machining quote of the day!!! Well said, Mein Herr!!!
First.
Hahahahhahahaha....You cheated!
I love when you throw some German in there. Your Dialekt gets me every time :D
"Hohlstooohl"
Same here. I think I either heard it for the first time or forgot. I lived in the area for a couple of years. But somehow didn’t think about you speaking the dialect ;)
22:25 That's right! Even though there is a thousand videos on the 29.5 deg compound setting. My 1942 Machinist Hand Book says it's A-OK to feed straight in.
Stefan I love the videos a lot. I work as a manual machinist and watching your videos (along with Abom79 and This Old Tony) have taught me quite a lot about machining. Thank you for the great content and for the education
This video was just a perfect combination of narration/explanation, ASMR machining footage, and 4x footage for repetitive tasks. And a big +1 for the German vocab! Mehr, bitte!
Always a pleasurable way to spend time watching the latest activity from the GTWR secret mountain lair, sorry, workshop. Just a marvellous viewing experience. I must sharpen up my rotten editing skills....
Amazing how much work goes into designing all the things we see every day and take for granted, thanks for sharing
Thank you for showing everything and not skimping on information. I've been planning "for ages" to get some small lathe as a hobby. Haven't really used lathe or machined in 20 years and about all was at school. It's interesting to see actual skilled workers and their solutions and I specifically enjoy seeing creative solutions like that grinder mounted on tool post. Two thumbs up!
very nice work as per usual Stefan, I myself use the same method of coring out stock. I can't tell you how many times I've used the cores for other parts.
Very cool project, I'm glad they allowed you to show and discuss it. Neat idea!
the "some say it work-hardens, i say your tools get dull" made me LOL
Thank you for taking time to film this while working. It was highly educational and entertaining as always.
Thank You Stefan, for your videos, but mostly for your honesty and skills. Great Job on a hard task.
I have just stumbled across your channel amazing work! I have been a machinist for about 25 years now. I work in the die industry. It's always rewarding for me to watch another machinist work that knows what their doing. Keep up the great work!!
I *was* wondering why you needed to beef up the thread, thanks for the explanation at the end👍 - Thanks also for adding in some German phrases to add to the educational aspect of your videos!
To paraphrase ...."Oh, by the way, I made a Weldon tool holder ... with two ejectors in case I got one wrong" I just love Stefan's throw away lines.
CNMG-431/2 inserts were always my go to insert for turning work. Even in lathes as small as a Hardinge or even small hobby bench lathes. Of course as you go down in power the depth of cut and feed need to be considered. One thing I always liked about the Hardinge lathes was the variable speed DC motor on the feed drive*. It was very easy to dial the feed rate in for good chip control. Unfortunately there are certain materials that just do not break the chip no matter what you do.
*a great modification for any bench lathe as is a Single Tooth Reversing Dog Clutch for threading.
our TOS SV18RA lathe has that single tooth dog clutch for threading.... threading became really easy with it... it also comes with a little lever on the toolpost which allows you to retract around 10mm out of way, so you don´t have to mess with your crosslide handwheel... it´s stock thing, but I always loved it
@@piter_sk
Is it just one direction or both ways. It's one of those things that probably does not add that much cost to the lathe considering they can eliminate the Thread Dial assembly. And the retract lever on the compound. That was something Hardinge had also. One thing people do not seem to understand about setting up gearing for cutting any thread form be it Inch, metric, Module or Diameteral Pitch is it's all about the ratio between the leadscrew and the spindle. If the leadscrew is say 4mm for the pitch and you need to cut a 1.5mm pitch the ratio is 1.5÷4 or .375. Or if there is a QCGB and the leadscrew is say 4TPI. Then cutting a 8TPI thread requires a .5 ratio. I've looked into building my own gearbox for threading and determining the gearing in the selector box is not that hard. And yes a single tooth reversing dog clutch was include. But the STRDC must run the same speed as the spindle. Otherwise they won't repeat.
Your engineering reasoning, decisions and execution are nothing short of amazing! German engineering at its best! Respekt!
No , your absolutly not a lazy person !!
Impossible when you make such cool stuff , and makes beautifull videos of it !
greetings from the netherlands your budy Johny Geerts
Thanks Stefan. It was nice to see the full product at the end. Seeing that put the rest of the work in context.
I'm in awe at the amount of work it must take not only to make all those parts but to record and edit it all as well! Thank you!
I am a simple man, I see a Stefan Gotteswinter video; I smash the like button.
Stefan. This is some wonderful work. Only you can come up with a 45 minute video for cutting threads and you have me focusing hard on it and learning something in every frame. Thank you!
I made a dedicated 30mm holder for my annular cutters which fits in the Multifix holder. ie, taking the MT2 out of the system.
(The other end of the 30mm holder has an 18mm socket for my boring bars, ie the ones that fit the UPA3)
Your lathe runs so quietly for how much power it delivers. I love watching your work and seeing your tools.
Shame about the squealing while boring. My ears!
I've been admiring this silent running of Stefan's Maximat as well, as mine is nothing like as quiet as this.
What oil do you fill the headstock with mr. Gotteswinter?
Probably my gears are simply more worn...
Great job as always, thanks for sharing your knowledge and skill.
Just a privilege to watch and listen, camera angles are fantastic. Thank you very much.
Thanks Stefan 👍
It is always a pleasure watching you do prototyping, and machine upgrades, and ‘acquiring’ cool machines, and….. the list goes on 🤣
Regards
Robert
I would have guessed it was for liquid nitrogen or oxygen. Looks to be industrial strength.
Exceptional work as always. Thanks for sharing.
woow, new music.... thx4 sharing, and, again, wonderful to see you, doing it, your way....
Hi Stephan. I really enjoy your videos. They are instructional and step by step just like I like to watch. Also you have the uncanny ability to communicate and teach both professionals and non professionals at the same time. You are a wealth of knowledge. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your journeys.
Excellent, clean work. Thank you for taking us along on the journey. All the best 👍🇦🇺
Making your own toolpost spindle would be an interesting project. I'm drawing up plans to make one for our lathe based on off-the-shelf shafts, bearings and other parts intended for cheap 3D printers and routers and the like.
17:38 One of these days we will need a gruesome, special.effects laden video about the background of how all these safety precautions came to pass.
_"Staplerfahrer Klaus hat auf Dreher umgeschult"_
_"High Impact Hand Safety vol. II: Surviving Edged Chuck Jaws"_
Yesssssss! Im here to get my brain sharpened, thank you for all the german/english translations, I genuinly try to mimic them every time i hear one. And also...thanks for all the machining stuff too of course. Cheers from vermont
Great video production along with super discussion/demonstration/build
Most Excellent ! You are a Lathe & Mill Artisan !!! Thanks for sharing!
Super impressive!
Safe to say we will all be learning a lot from you!
Thank you Stefan for another very engaging project.
Stefan, thanks for sharing this (and editing and whatnot) !
I have now for some time adopted a habit to not to knock the workpiece to seat it into the jaws. Instead I push it either with something in the toolpost or in the tailstock and then tighten the jaws. This is because I have had difficulties with the workpiece jumping away from the jaws when knocking it. I know it is something that happens if You knock it too hard. With pushing this does not happen.
That's probably why he used a hammer with animal hide on it (dampening the blow) while also having the part tightened a tiny bit before using the hammer.. there should be no spring-back if you do it that way.
Thank you Stephan,
Instructive as always.
What an interesting project. I used to have to hand file blunt start threads quite often. It was a job i hated. Here in England we called it "half dogging " a screw thread.
Another excellent video Stefan. And thanks for the free hearing tests at 7m32s and 11m35s. As a musician it was quite reassuring to confirm I still have pretty good high frequency hearing 🙂
Auf so eine Idee muß man erst mal kommen. Weiter so! Du hast Grips, geschickte Hände und offensichtlich Spaß dabei. Diese Kombi sollte sich irgendwann mal so richtig auszahlen! Ich würde es Dir von Herzen gönnen! - Grüße aus DD!
Klasse Arbeit, Stefan. Ungewöhnliches Projekt, mal was ganz anderes.
"Some people say it work hardens, I say your tools get dull"...hahahahaha...I needed a good laugh today!..now I'm inspired to make a crude hopper funnel (no threads) out of aluminum for my coffee grinder. Thanks for the video. PS: now i have to go inspect all my bottles...
The range of tensile strengths for 304 in Stefan's chart provides a woeful telltale -- given that the analysis does not vary, it can only arise from strain hardening.
Hello forn spain ..very good video stefan..thanks for your time
Beautiful execution on the thread convolute, and mad deburring skills. The
deburr job really makes the part.👌🏻👏🏻
You are always doing something interesting. Thanks.
Very informative. Wonderfully meticulous. Thanks!
In woodworking, the expert knows how to hide his mistakes.
Expensive drink bottles. Well done as usual.
A wonderful jaunt through prototyping a new design including the inevitable tooling jigs. Well thought out work sequence as usual.
Enjoyed every minute of this Stefan! TFS, GB :)
Particularly good explanations in this one! And I really appreciate the German lessons
The Roto Broach, or Annular Cutters, are a magnificent piece of tooling.
Great video as always Stefan, thank you for sharing your knowledge, I always learn something new. 👍👍
Another excellent VDO. Thanks for sharing.
Great video! Sequence of operations, work-holding, deburring..........."a problem well-defined is a problem 90% solved". Thanks for sharing. Question/comment: What material will the mating threads be made from? Some kind of glass reinforced, injection molded polymer, I hope? It's been my experience that 304 stainless (SS in general) galls badly, to the point of locking up, over time when mated with aluminum or stainless steel threads.
See the video till end, he shows the final product which indeed a non metal cap.
Yes, getting stainless screws that have galled on the threads can be a real pain in the kiester. Sometimes you need to drill out to just over the root diameter of the screw and take the thread out with a needle nose. Just make sure you are dead nuts to the center of the screw and tapped hole. On assembly we always used Anti Sieze and ran a tap into the holes. And throughly cleaned the holes out. I would have preferred to run in a form tap but they didn't want to spring for them.
@@mvadu Thanks! I didn't realize the cap assy. was a functional prototype. I thought it was more of a 3D-printed assembly model, a just for "look and feel" sort of thing. Cheers, F.C.
omg, stainless galling - I made huge adjustment screws with 25x1mm thread, probably 250mm long at one point - And I was running the threadgage along the screw, to check for fit over the entire length.
It took very a lot of Oil, back and forth to get the threadgage off again, without damaging the part or gage.
(that was 303 stainless)
@@StefanGotteswinter Common ultra-high vacuum hardware: stainless steel nuts, stainless steel bolts, stainless steel washers clamping stainless steel flanged pipe connections. Galling everywhere. Antiseize is messy, which is painful or unacceptable. A common partial solution is silver plated bolts. Silicon bronze nuts and washers work much better whenever you can get away with them.
Stefan, real nice work, real nice video again. Thank you for sharing! One question; you preloaded the soft jaws on a piece of round stock clamping on the inside. You use the claws clamping on the outside. Shouldn't you use a ring preloading the soft jaws in the same direction as the part is clamped? Curious about your answer. All the best, Job
Ich muss gestehen, als ich das Gewinde gesehen hab und dann das mit der Gaskartusche, hab' ich mir gedacht, das dass eine echte Rohrbombe werden könnte wenn man da zu lange 'sprudelt'. Aber beim Kickstarter steht zum Glück, dass es ein Druckablassventil gibt.
Interessantes Projekt
Zusätzlich: Für die Flaschen gabs einen Drucktest der über dem Dampfdruck vom Co2 liegt ;)
Excellent video presentation as always Stefan! Thank you!
That tool post router is awesome.. I've never seen one before but I've often thought about making one to try, it's good to see one in action
Thanks for the excellent teaching lesson. Using the tool post grinder/router to cut down the web of the thread was interesting. I always take away new ideas !
Fantasic. Thank you for machining manual. Your King Man. Cheers from A very snowy Swe. Stay safe buddy. 👊
I love watching your work, its so far away from my level but its fantastic to know what can be done with the knowledge and gear. Really appreciate the effort it takes to make these video's
Great video! The music at the end was a nice touch. 👍
Am I the only one who’s skin crawls and get shivers up my spine when I see long stringy stainless steel swarf.. lol..
...und wieder hat sich der HobbyschrauBÄR ein paar nette Tricks abschauen können... 👍
3:25 In my experience drilling 304-stanless, you must keep a chip going. If it ever "rubs" (no chip) it's very hard to press through. Often I would change the angle of the twist drill To pointier then flatter until I break through the hard stuff, then re-sharpen as normal.
Really nice work, as always. I hope you end up making it out to the BarZ bash some year. I would really enjoy meeting you in person.
Absolutely beautiful work. I sure do appreciate your ideas and techniques. Thank you for the very well done video.
Thank you Stefan!😸
Another good one Stefan thank you.
this a very soft and malleable material you could easily flatten it and roll form the new double thread that requires a fine machining your style !
In the 80's that bottle would've been used to make a 50cc motorcycle aftermarket exhaust pipe 😂😂
Nice video, always learn something new from you. One remark. You are cutting 3mm pitch thread, and your leadscrew is also 3mm, .
This means that you don't need to have always closed half nut. You can engage leadscrew at any position. It will always be in alignment... Seems easier, and can be more relaxed when cutting it...
Stefan mentions that possibility, at about 24:20, but he mentions that due to habit (muscle memory) he prefers to stick to what he calls the "European" way, keeping half nuts engaged and backing up.
To me it is not so much European as "metric", as metric leadscrews make it unfeasible to disengage the half nuts, even when doing metric threads which are not a whole multiple of the leadscrew pitch.
This arises because of the way pitch is defined (with the length unit as the numerator -- rather than the length unit as a denominator, with value of 1, as in tpi.
If metric threads were denominated in "threads per dm" rather than "mm per thread", a threading dial would obviously be viable.
It's about the one indisputable advantage I can think of attached to the inch system, and it's why at least one metric lathe manufacture decided to use tpi leadscrews on all their manual lathes -- the one I'm aware of being CMT on their Ursus range -- as it makes the provision of a dual language gearbox simpler, both mechanically and operationally. Of course with CNC, the problem dissolves.
One French lathe manufacturer (Caseneuve) came up with a threading dial for metric threadcutting, but while characteristically brilliant, it was outrageously complicated. There was also an English third party attempt, branded Ainjest, IIRC, which never really caught on.
Way to save the lightbulb moment for the end my friend! I knew pressure had to be involved but a built in CO2 cylinder, that's clever.
Fantastic work as always, thanks for sharing your skills. Cheers from Sweden.
Hi Stefan, When cutting soft jaws, in my experience it is better to clamp the jaws in the orientation you will be tightening the job in. So if you are gripping in a bore you would clamp the jaws with a ring on the outside of the jaws, this will eliminate any backlash in the scroll and jaws. Best wishes, Mal.
You migh be surprised to hear that F1 wheel nuts have a thread that is similar to the original drinking bottle .(made in Ti for single use ).
I did not know that!
Then you can have a quick drink in less than 5 seconds.
@Farendloese Lol..
More like: Unscrew the lid, take your sip, replace the lid, in under 3 seconds.
This video was full of useful tips❣️ Thank you Stefan.
Ahhh hot! I can't count how many times I have done this lol. Love your vids man, thank you.
Very nice, thank you for that. Enjoyed as usual.
50 extra credit points for using the term Kitty wampus... Probably one of my all time favorite words to describe a very special situation. Not to be confused with Fubar of course... lol. I'll let you google that one if you dont know it already. Cheers
I'm so glad you could finally afford a color camera!.
Yeah, i can see why product that goes pop and launches water and cap would fail, but this thread solution looks expensive. Some variation of power tool box style locks would be fine, it could release pressure when partially unlatched and only after that it would come off and that would take mass production friendly components, possibly made from 2mm thick wire like in fancy jars
I use a lot of 304 because it's what my local supply house carries. They have a very limited selection. It takes a bit of getting used to, it's not the best cutting, but it's nice once you get used to dealing with it and you can get nice finishes out of it.
Yes, in my youth it was always easy to get 303 as well as 304 (the former machines a lot more easily, and in particular is much nicer for tapping) but now everyone seems only to stock 304 (because it can be welded, and it halves their inventory). So i tend to go to the extra expense of 316 which machines about as well as 303 (the price differential is no longer crippling as it once was, so I guess it's actually a good change)
I do hope your customer sells a million of these; the setup costs seem to be considerable. Thank you for explaining what the the threads are for; I was certainly puzzled.
That's what CNC is for. Start with DOM or cast material. But if you are going to be making a million of them a dedicated multispindle indexing lathe such as a Cone-a-Matic might actually be faster. Time is money. I used to know a guy with a 2 or 3 person shop. He had a Cone-a-Matic set up specifically for doing the nose caps for 5" naval shells out of bar stock. One index of the machine and the parts were cut off and finished.
14:39
Chuck torque setting: "solid gronk"
When I watched this initially comments were turned off..
For the thread start, I've kind of come up with the same solution, haven't actually made my spindle adapter yet though.. Well done! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience! Your inside and outside chamfer tool, I'm guessing it's just a shop made carbide blank?
Thanks! Yes, I fortgot to turn the comments on, when I put the video live.
The chamfer tool is just a 8mm carbide blank, split in half, ground to 90° and relieved.
For run of 10 it would be fine to install two stops on chuck and just cut with turning insert while rotating head by hand
I had to provide a Higbee (blunt) start on my hardened Myford Super 7 headstock spindle, because I had garked it (long story)., and I came up with the same approach, doing it with a toolpost grinder and turning the leadscrew by hand. It made a perfect job. I had to do it in another Myford, running the spindle in a fixed steady protected from grinding dust by taping several pairs of knickers in turn over the steady and to the spindle (which only had to turn about 180 degrees). I had to do it like this because the Super 7 was disassembled at the time for a "like new" refurbish (and because I won't grind anywhere near the S7)
It is much nicer changing chucks with a blunt start thread. The Myford register is also preferable to the Southbend/Boxford proportions, as it engages before the thread does.
Nice Work as always Stefan
Great video 👍 Stefan so all that Great camera work and editing and educational machining was to make a mobile Soda stream 😊!
We had the possibility to vacuüm silver solder thin walled stainless steel, heated with an induction oven. Worked perfect
Sounds interesting, would love to see a demonstration.
Think about thermal differences between bottle and cap. You will need some clearance on the threads. And for convenience chamfer the thread for easy engagement.
Double helix threads are more convenient as simple threads as they will engage every half turn instead of full turn. Something you allways will twist out of your wrist.
THANK YOU STEFAN. REGARDS RICHAARD.
Is preloading the jaws using a part inside the jaws a good idea when you're going to be gripping on the outside? I'd think that the deflections would not be representative of the final use. A ring for preloading would be better. I'm sure it's more than good enough for most work.
I think you're right on both counts.