Love the chain idea, I'll be using that! On what, I don't know yet, but that is brilliant. In my career at a R&D shop I always surrounded myself with talented people. At times in a project there are no "bad" ideas. I wanted to hear all options from everyone.
That FP1 is such a versatile little mill, it was a great addition to your shop. Every time you do another job on it, we all realise just how good it is. Love the content👍👌🇦🇺
The FP1 and 2 are beautiful machines, especially when equipped with the factory Deckel accessories. They make a self centering vice that mounts directly to the dividing head spindle using those same 4 grub screws.
Nice solution! That's the best part about 3D printers -- making useful little things help around the shop (or kitchen a.k.a. 'shop for cooks'). The last thing I printed was a simple oil-sump cover for my Harig surface grinder. I've also printed tool setters, an alignment tool for the hateful Emco rotary switch and several drill organizers. Sometimes the "prototype" works well enough, one forgets to do the V2 🙂
Beautiful approach! It makes me very glad to see you using the flood oil cooling/lubrication rather than that rust inducing hellspawn liquid... All the parts of your machine and equipment used thereon will benefit from that oil... It`s nice seeing someone treat their machines properly... It sickens me when i see misused and abused machines, covered in dust, rust, crud and chips... Chips are okay if the machine is under covers, but other than that, nothing but oil is or should be found on the machine... All the best and warmest regards! Steuss
This is why I went bonkers for 3d printing: to build stuff like that on a Sunday when that's what I need NOW. Some "mechanics" belittle 3D printing as a toy: they have not yet appreciated its usefulness even just for prototyping. In some cases I printed objects that I wanted to buy just to see if they fit and worked. (and in some of those cases I stayed with my prototype) If you can draw it, you have it.
Very nice. Maybe you might need to put a small piece of perforated aluminium over the exit opening to stop the larger chips from blocking up the pipe, but it looks very successful.
very elegant solution all around Stefan . I am sure the chain idea will prove useful one day . I have stored it in my grey matter for future use . Prost. Ade.
I also use cutting oil when needed in milling operations, for all the same reasons of not wanting to tear down the setup to remove the water soluble stuff. And yes, keeping the oil on the table drains is an issue when it splatters and pours off the vise. Looks like the hard part was getting the model data into your CAD program. As always, I'm impressed by your applied physics skills.
As always, beautiful and well thought out design, Stefan. Also (and I can't believe I'm giving you a suggestion), if you haven't printed the final version yet, you could redesign the inside bottom surface of the tray to where it slants ever so slightly toward the drain hole in order to help clear up the oil from the pan. But I'm sure you had already thought of this. Ciao, Marco.
Or conical away from the center, and then to an sloped trough on the perimeter (to the drain port). Whether or not Stefan needs another revision, it's a good idea for the rest of us!
That's probably the best use of a slow day that I've seen on a machining channel so far. Nailed it! Me, personally... I'd have just done some "heavy lifting"... about 12x 6% :)
Very good ideas. Thank you. We just recently put a chain on the downspout from our shed to keep rain water from splashing down the side of the building.
Friggin sweet!! Love the use of TPU. I've had good success printing TPU with other materials in multi material prints. It works pretty well for anti skid/slip surfaces too. Thanks for all the great information!
Very interesting video as usual! I have flood coolant systems on 6 of my machines, do not use a singele one of them... I do fair amount of small prototype parts in 316 and similar. Oil can, paste or dry is what I use most of the time, maybe it is time to reconsider... It seems like that fairly thick oil works really well without much splatter. My favorite cutting paste is not the expensive Ridgid ones or similar anymore, it is the partially covered cans of big new years eve candles sold in the marts here in Sweden. I heat it and add canola oil to a paste thickness. Turning a small adapter for a brush and You have the usual type of can everybody uses. It works surprisingly well for stainless, especially threading and parting. But it needs to be cleaned off the machine since canola oil is a drying oil and will over time dry to a stubborn film if not removed. (As do all vegetable oils)
At my old day job we also used pure cutting oil but at 10000 in both stainless 303.304.316 and titanium without problems such as burning or smoking. It was a cnc though so no splashing by default But nice to see someone doing what I'm planing to do on manual machines before I got around to do it myself danke stefan
It looks wonderful....I like the whole id very much. It's a great contribution to the shop.😃 It would be eazy to make a big circle that fits in the oilpan to contan splatter even more. I would also find something to prevent dust from collecting on the machine base, because that also collects when your not use the machine, like sweeping the floor.
Very nice design! I can actually hear the enthusiasm, satisfaction and, dare I say it, joy over the outcome in your voice. Just one question, how can you have so much "fun" and still get paid? ;) Thanks for sharing. Cheers, F.C.
Nice idea . I printed some parts for watchmakers lathe and mill but never something to work with cutting oil. I am really interested in how long this part will last in contact with cutting oil. Stefan could you give us an update in a future?
Nice design and result. I love printing TPU parts. Your mastery of English always pleases me. Because you're a perfectionist, I'll point out that "cantilever" is like a beam sticking out of a wall, only supported at one end. "Cant" is the word for a tilt situation. But it didn't detract from your message, so no big deal :-) Thanks for giving us lots of tips and ideas.
Great concept and solution to the oil-control.. but what I found most interesting is the oil-drops that floated on the oil below the part and then immediately dosappeared :o
Great thinking using the dovetail to position the oil catcher, as well as the chain to direct the oil flow. Can you use synthetic oil as a cutting lubricant? Normally, they have a much higher smoking temperature. Thanks for the video.
I bet if you heat the oil, you'll actually get better heat control, and it will drain off your parts easier. I remember from my knife making days that if you have hot quench oil, it actually evacuates heat better than cold oil.
Nice tip about the cutting oil, I will have to test that out, I don't use it enough in low RPM settings for the high RPM issues you mentioned. I also hate printing TPU parts, but they've made for very good coupling spiders for some stuff at work which is no longer produced. Some company wanted €320 for a single spider, and after a few phone calls it turned out they had the last 4 in existence in all of europe in the right dimensions. The fundamental shape of coupling spiders also did not make it very enjoyable to print, but at least I saved several thousand euros by the end of it in spiders alone, let alone if they had to swap out all the shafts and couplings.
Great idea and thanks for the video. You answered all the questions that came up a little later.👍 Don't you have any problems with the chips clogging the drain?
I was thinking the same. But also for chip load filling up the small area quickly. But it would also depend on how large his printer can make a pan like this. But I have to try and remind myself "Stefan doesn't do larger parts/jobs". Tiny things are his thing. Kurtis from Cutting Edge Engineering on the other hand does HUGE parts.
Ya gotta print a square snug fit apron to fit on the quill to deflect all the spray from the 120mm shell cutter when it's running at 1200 rippers that drips into the "pan".
I really like your general approach toflood cooling on manual machining. I personally have similar machines (Deckel FP1 and Wemas LZ 500). While using oil of course completely dispells the whole rust problem I personally chose to use water soluable oil and just mix it stupid rich. Its still very runny and cools really well however I dont seem to get any problems with rust. I usually dont even take off the table after just a quick job. I only blow out the t slots and then spray them with WD40 from the outside. Seems to work well enough. Its a bit more of a mess in the sumpe because the coolant tends to develop a thick skin due to how much oil it contains. However Indont seem to have any issuesnwith unreasonably short coolant life cycles.
Yes, if so, I guess it would be easy to print a cage for outside the end of the pipe onto which the chain would hook, with the apertures of the cage larger than the inside diameter of the pipe. A bit like the cages kid's snorkels used to have for a ping pong ball. (Showing my age)
ptsd.. i spent all morning rebuilding one of those garmins and trying to make it talk to the golf app for a friend. thats a way more complicated watch than anyone needs.
The simplest solution is alway the best. Awesome creative problem solving skills! Can't wait to see to see you prototype a an improved chocolate fountain design😉 (see 16'18" to understand what I mean)
How do you filter the oil returned to eliminate machining debris before reusing it? The surface finish of your chips are exceptional. A little suction line might work better than blowing excess oil from parts. I like the chain to direct the flow.
He mentioned that he mainly uses it for HSS, and in the case of the carbide end mill, it was a small diameter with very copious oil flow, so I guess the combination (bearing in mind he was not using the high speed spindle for his FP1) did not reach a sufficient temperature to cause a problem.
I've been wanting to get away from the typical emulsifying coolant - How are you dealing with cleaning everything up after the fact? For oil it seems like you either accept that everything will be coated in oil all the time, or you almost need a draining rack to put all your stuff in to drain, then a tank to wash everything in..
I really enjoy watching your videos, you always include just the right level of technical information that I like, that is, a lot of technical information! Joking aside, do you by any chance need a weekend helper? I live only 500Km away from your workshop, if I could, I would like to learn from you!
The chain such a simple and genius solution.
Already seen on some water drop, when you can't have a gutter.
you see it as a decorative gutter solution all over asia, its nice
The gutter chain. That is an elegant and simple solution for keeping solutions under control. Thank you! I really enjoy studying your work!
“Vast experience of two weeks”gave me a good chuckle!
Love the chain idea, I'll be using that! On what, I don't know yet, but that is brilliant. In my career at a R&D shop I always surrounded myself with talented people. At times in a project there are no "bad" ideas. I wanted to hear all options from everyone.
That FP1 is such a versatile little mill, it was a great addition to your shop. Every time you do another job on it, we all realise just how good it is. Love the content👍👌🇦🇺
The FP1 and 2 are beautiful machines, especially when equipped with the factory Deckel accessories. They make a self centering vice that mounts directly to the dividing head spindle using those same 4 grub screws.
Spot on
🇦🇺
Great system! Shows how 3D printing can be used to enhance the capabilities of a machine shop.
you in the shop is like mozart on a piano. that whole project was beautifully done!
Nice solution! That's the best part about 3D printers -- making useful little things help around the shop (or kitchen a.k.a. 'shop for cooks'). The last thing I printed was a simple oil-sump cover for my Harig surface grinder. I've also printed tool setters, an alignment tool for the hateful Emco rotary switch and several drill organizers. Sometimes the "prototype" works well enough, one forgets to do the V2 🙂
One thing the Harig definitely needs.
Love the chain solution. So clever. It's always nice to see and "old" answer being used for a new question!
Beautiful approach! It makes me very glad to see you using the flood oil cooling/lubrication rather than that rust inducing hellspawn liquid... All the parts of your machine and equipment used thereon will benefit from that oil... It`s nice seeing someone treat their machines properly... It sickens me when i see misused and abused machines, covered in dust, rust, crud and chips... Chips are okay if the machine is under covers, but other than that, nothing but oil is or should be found on the machine...
All the best and warmest regards!
Steuss
Absolutely brilliant Stefan and the chain idea is an extremely elegant solution. 👏👏 Definitely looking forward to the final design iteration.
This is why I went bonkers for 3d printing: to build stuff like that on a Sunday when that's what I need NOW. Some "mechanics" belittle 3D printing as a toy: they have not yet appreciated its usefulness even just for prototyping.
In some cases I printed objects that I wanted to buy just to see if they fit and worked. (and in some of those cases I stayed with my prototype)
If you can draw it, you have it.
Very nice. Maybe you might need to put a small piece of perforated aluminium over the exit opening to stop the larger chips from blocking up the pipe, but it looks very successful.
very elegant solution all around Stefan . I am sure the chain idea will prove useful one day . I have stored it in my grey matter for future use . Prost. Ade.
that free space on the dovetail mount of the "oil pan" could use a hex hole to store the shortened key you have
I also use cutting oil when needed in milling operations, for all the same reasons of not wanting to tear down the setup to remove the water soluble stuff. And yes, keeping the oil on the table drains is an issue when it splatters and pours off the vise.
Looks like the hard part was getting the model data into your CAD program. As always, I'm impressed by your applied physics skills.
As always, beautiful and well thought out design, Stefan. Also (and I can't believe I'm giving you a suggestion), if you haven't printed the final version yet, you could redesign the inside bottom surface of the tray to where it slants ever so slightly toward the drain hole in order to help clear up the oil from the pan. But I'm sure you had already thought of this. Ciao, Marco.
Or conical away from the center, and then to an sloped trough on the perimeter (to the drain port). Whether or not Stefan needs another revision, it's a good idea for the rest of us!
Brilliant design. Your pan does resemble a gear shaper oil pan. Thanks for posting Stefan!
That's probably the best use of a slow day that I've seen on a machining channel so far.
Nailed it!
Me, personally... I'd have just done some "heavy lifting"... about 12x 6% :)
Such a well thought out solution, expertly accomplished. 👏👏👍😀
Very good ideas. Thank you. We just recently put a chain on the downspout from our shed to keep rain water from splashing down the side of the building.
Friggin sweet!! Love the use of TPU. I've had good success printing TPU with other materials in multi material prints. It works pretty well for anti skid/slip surfaces too.
Thanks for all the great information!
Very interesting video as usual!
I have flood coolant systems on 6 of my machines, do not use a singele one of them...
I do fair amount of small prototype parts in 316 and similar. Oil can, paste or dry is what I use most of the time, maybe it is time to reconsider... It seems like that fairly thick oil works really well without much splatter.
My favorite cutting paste is not the expensive Ridgid ones or similar anymore, it is the partially covered cans of big new years eve candles sold in the marts here in Sweden. I heat it and add canola oil to a paste thickness. Turning a small adapter for a brush and You have the usual type of can everybody uses. It works surprisingly well for stainless, especially threading and parting. But it needs to be cleaned off the machine since canola oil is a drying oil and will over time dry to a stubborn film if not removed. (As do all vegetable oils)
Excellent idea,Stefan.Thank you.
At my old day job we also used pure cutting oil but at 10000 in both stainless 303.304.316 and titanium without problems such as burning or smoking. It was a cnc though so no splashing by default
But nice to see someone doing what I'm planing to do on manual machines before I got around to do it myself danke stefan
Looks like a total win👍
I've never seen or heard of a gutter chain before, congrats on bringing childhood memorries into problem solving though🙂
It looks wonderful....I like the whole id very much. It's a great contribution to the shop.😃
It would be eazy to make a big circle that fits in the oilpan to contan splatter even more.
I would also find something to prevent dust from collecting on the machine base, because that also collects when your not use the machine, like sweeping the floor.
Very timely - I’ve been wondering about flood oil rather than flood water mix on the mill, for the same reasons. Thanks Stefan 👍
Fighting the devil of corrosion and iron oxide in a oily manner :D
Very slick
Solving all the problems one project at a time. 🙂
Very nice design! I can actually hear the enthusiasm, satisfaction and, dare I say it, joy over the outcome in your voice. Just one question, how can you have so much "fun" and still get paid? ;) Thanks for sharing.
Cheers,
F.C.
Oil no matter what you do will wind up making mess. The trick is to keep the mess under control. The chain is a good trick.
Nice idea . I printed some parts for watchmakers lathe and mill but never something to work with cutting oil. I am really interested in how long this part will last in contact with cutting oil. Stefan could you give us an update in a future?
It's fun and encouraging to watch you think.
Very Slippery.... Very nice. I'll have to experiment with TPU on the printer. Thanks for sharing your experiences in your shop.
FP2 owner - forever grateful - cheers
I make vacuum-tight o-rings of any size using superglue to fuse the ends of the rubber rod together.
Nicely done Stefan!
ATB, Robin
I'll have to copy that for my Alexander Master mill ( Deckel FP1 Clone) Excellent idea and video 👍
Well done. I bought 2 Digital Mitutoyo micrometers and they are great!
Nice design and result. I love printing TPU parts. Your mastery of English always pleases me. Because you're a perfectionist, I'll point out that "cantilever" is like a beam sticking out of a wall, only supported at one end. "Cant" is the word for a tilt situation. But it didn't detract from your message, so no big deal :-) Thanks for giving us lots of tips and ideas.
I like the chain idea ,
👍
Congrantulations! Definitely more than a decent solution!
Great concept and solution to the oil-control.. but what I found most interesting is the oil-drops that floated on the oil below the part and then immediately dosappeared :o
Cool solution with the pan and chain to persuade the oil to play nice.
Very nice solution.
Great thinking using the dovetail to position the oil catcher, as well as the chain to direct the oil flow. Can you use synthetic oil as a cutting lubricant? Normally, they have a much higher smoking temperature. Thanks for the video.
Well thats another great idea.. thanks for your time
I bet if you heat the oil, you'll actually get better heat control, and it will drain off your parts easier. I remember from my knife making days that if you have hot quench oil, it actually evacuates heat better than cold oil.
Fantastic idea!
Nice job Stephan. Do you do anything to separate the total loss lubricating oil from the cutting oil in the sump or just let them mix?
Thanks once again!
Love your stuff.
Nice tip about the cutting oil, I will have to test that out, I don't use it enough in low RPM settings for the high RPM issues you mentioned. I also hate printing TPU parts, but they've made for very good coupling spiders for some stuff at work which is no longer produced. Some company wanted €320 for a single spider, and after a few phone calls it turned out they had the last 4 in existence in all of europe in the right dimensions. The fundamental shape of coupling spiders also did not make it very enjoyable to print, but at least I saved several thousand euros by the end of it in spiders alone, let alone if they had to swap out all the shafts and couplings.
Hi Stephen. I hope your new lathe is settling in OK and playing nicely with your other machines.
gotta love 3d printed prototyping/solutions, nice one Stefan
That’s a really neat and well integrated design. 👍👍
Speaking of washing chips, my grandfather used to wash his too salty chips from the fish and chips shop under the tap, but not in oil, just water 😅
Awesome idea. Thanks for sharing
TPU works very well with mineral oils, I printed a gasket for a Bridgeport mill few years ago, and still working like a chmap
Reminds me of the drip pan that goes on a ceramics wheel for throwing pots.
I love your work. Using TPU as a seal is brilliant. 3D printers are great.
Great idea and thanks for the video. You answered all the questions that came up a little later.👍
Don't you have any problems with the chips clogging the drain?
Sure it will clog, but thats a shop-vac solution :-)
nice job! but I was thinking the whole time that it needs to be covering larger area for splashes and larger parts above it
I was thinking the same. But also for chip load filling up the small area quickly. But it would also depend on how large his printer can make a pan like this. But I have to try and remind myself "Stefan doesn't do larger parts/jobs". Tiny things are his thing. Kurtis from Cutting Edge Engineering on the other hand does HUGE parts.
3D printer the perfect tool for this job - thanks for the video.
Ya gotta print a square snug fit apron to fit on the quill to deflect all the spray from the 120mm shell cutter when it's running at 1200 rippers that drips into the "pan".
The Chain....! German Ingenuity.... Thanks for sharing.
A brilliant idea😁❗️
Thanks for another great info movie.
Genius
Thanks for sharing
Cheers
I really like your general approach toflood cooling on manual machining. I personally have similar machines (Deckel FP1 and Wemas LZ 500). While using oil of course completely dispells the whole rust problem I personally chose to use water soluable oil and just mix it stupid rich. Its still very runny and cools really well however I dont seem to get any problems with rust. I usually dont even take off the table after just a quick job. I only blow out the t slots and then spray them with WD40 from the outside. Seems to work well enough. Its a bit more of a mess in the sumpe because the coolant tends to develop a thick skin due to how much oil it contains. However Indont seem to have any issuesnwith unreasonably short coolant life cycles.
Very nice......Another great video......Thanks for sharing
Dude - awesome, nice work!
Best tip of all is the shop Crocs!
I wonder 🤔. Did Stefan use a strainer to keep the swarf out of the tank? I guess a simpke stranet could be 3d printed into the tray.
Well done!
Great content Stephan.
Very clever solution for a slippery situation 😂. And if time proves that the lubricant degrades the plastic, it will be a easy replacement.
Oh yeah…another STGW-inspiration; thank you 💪
Maybe a click- and rotable shield can be an idea too…
Very cool 👍. I like the gutter chain solution. Btw, I wonder if this 8:49 pipe gets clogged with chips.
Yes, if so, I guess it would be easy to print a cage for outside the end of the pipe onto which the chain would hook, with the apertures of the cage larger than the inside diameter of the pipe. A bit like the cages kid's snorkels used to have for a ping pong ball. (Showing my age)
I’d say a piece of stainless mesh. Anyways, maybe he’ll address the problem at a later video.
I have TPU flap bumper in my pool for more than 6 years and they are still as new.
Pretty slick idea.
Such a great use for 3d printing!
Love the gutter chain!
Brilliant!
Very cool Thanks
ingenious
Is that the same cutting oil you have always used in your small bottles or a different recipe?
Yes.
Very nice.
ptsd.. i spent all morning rebuilding one of those garmins and trying to make it talk to the golf app for a friend. thats a way more complicated watch than anyone needs.
The simplest solution is alway the best. Awesome creative problem solving skills! Can't wait to see to see you prototype a an improved chocolate fountain design😉 (see 16'18" to understand what I mean)
How do you filter the oil returned to eliminate machining debris before reusing it? The surface finish of your chips are exceptional. A little suction line might work better than blowing excess oil from parts. I like the chain to direct the flow.
if the splashing gets too much, you can add an extension to the ring top...
or a few curved clear splash shields, like face shields on swivel arms
Can the motor handle the extra viscosity of the oil? I would think it has to work harder to pump it around.
Very well done Stefan. Surprised there is no smoke. It it because of the type oil oil you use?
He mentioned that he mainly uses it for HSS, and in the case of the carbide end mill, it was a small diameter with very copious oil flow, so I guess the combination (bearing in mind he was not using the high speed spindle for his FP1) did not reach a sufficient temperature to cause a problem.
@@Gottenhimfella Makes sense, thanks.
Hey welcome back!
I would imagine an ultrasonic cleaner with a modification to have an oil skimmer would make an absolute breeze to remove the oil from the parts.
Thx for the vid.
I've been wanting to get away from the typical emulsifying coolant - How are you dealing with cleaning everything up after the fact? For oil it seems like you either accept that everything will be coated in oil all the time, or you almost need a draining rack to put all your stuff in to drain, then a tank to wash everything in..
Enjoyed…chain drain. “simple/smart”
I really enjoy watching your videos, you always include just the right level of technical information that I like, that is, a lot of technical information!
Joking aside, do you by any chance need a weekend helper? I live only 500Km away from your workshop, if I could, I would like to learn from you!
Just curious - which 3D printer do you use?