Nice summary of the pros and cons, thank you. It would have been nice to know the number and nature of punctures in each of the type of tire and the distance covered with those tires. One of the big issues that I've had indirect experience with in relation to tubeless tires is that when one gets a proper puncture that won't seal and you have to put tube in, removing a tubeless valve by the side of the road can be a big issue. Personally, I have found tubeless too much of a hassle and I'm sticking with clinchers and tubes. I have spent far more time trying to set up tubeless in my shed than I would have ever spent repairing punctures by the side of the road. Working in the shed can be nicer though.
For Clincher I had 1 punctures and 1 patch fail on my tube (nothing related to the product, I just didn't patch it well initially). For Tubeless I cannot really could as some small cut are not very noticeable. More noticeable puncture was in a time trial race which I am very happy it seal up without slowing me down at all. I would not put a tube in unless that is your last option (e.g. phone out of range) while you out riding. I also agree that you would be spending more time to setup and maintain it compare to just change the tube when needed. I only use tubeless for events and races.
Good points. I’m considering going back to clincher and I think if you have the right combo of inners and tyre you can get quite close to tube less. Plus self sufficiency is a must especially if you’re on a cycling holiday and miles from home. Maybe a video on comparisons of rolling resistance for both tyre set ups in future….?
In my experience using Latex or TPU is very close in terms of rolling efficiency with Tubeless. Tubless = more work at the initial setup but easier on when it is up and running. More or less down to personal preference.
@@edwardmargot3288 I have been running tubeless for about 5 years after I got 3 pinch flats out on a 100k ride and thought 'there must be a better way'. However the journey into Tubeless was a steep learning curve. What I've learned: 1. Most tubeless sealant is crap, or at least way over-hyped. The worst I used was Silca, whereby it dried out so quickly and gummed all the carbon fibres to the inside of the tyre! 2. It's messy. Everytime you take off the tyre, there is mess to deal with. 3. I have never had medium holes seal properly. Yes, you may get home but you'll have to deal with the hole. 4. Some tubeless tyres can be a royal PITA to get on and off the rim. 5. You'll become best friends with your track pump! That said, the best sealant I have used is milKit. It has some small fibres in it, thick enough that it doesn't blow straight out of a hole and is water soluble so it doesn't dry out and can be refreshed with a small amount of water. It seals the tyre to the rim so well (and doesn't dry out and therefore 'crack') that I only add air every 2-3 weeks However, I have gone back to butyl inner tubes on my road bike after reading Bike Rolling Resistance's inner tube vs tubeless tests that suggest only a 3-4w per wheel saving for tubeless. I was giving it a spring service at the weekend and opened up the tyres and noted I had had to patched inside 6 times (Hitchinson Fusion5 Performance in 30c, an fantastic tubeless tyre in all respects!). What I have done now is use a lightweight butyl tube and added 20ml of milKit sealant. I have used this protocol successfully on my Commuter bike, whereby a small hole in the tube would 'seal' by having sealant trapped between the inner tube and tyre. I ran 3 days with a small weep of sealant out of the tyre and just patched the tube at the weekend. My saddle bag is so much less complicated. A tube, small tube of glue, some patches, tyre levers and a co2 cartridge. Even if I have to fix a puncture on the side of the road I can do that without pulling off the wheel as I have a tell-tell sign of where the hole is! I have just bought a used gravel bike and am not sure whether I will use the G-Ones tubed or tubeless. Because the tyre is bigger I can pop some of the bead off, wipe inside the tyre (the milKit does stick to the tyre like a latex sealant) and apply a patch to the inside of the tyre there and then. To me, the bigger volume tyre and lower pressure seems more suited to tubeless than a sub 30c road tyre. HTH!
I've run tubeless on my e-gravel and carbon road bike for five years and for the most part I've been happy with the results. I did get four flats in the last two years. Two of the flats were on my carbon road bike and both were caused by rim tape failure. The other two flats were my fault, in that I waited too long to replace the sealant and the fluid solidified and didn't seal a puncture. This year I've changed my carbon road bike over to tubes, because to be honest I'm getting tired of messing with all the crap that's involved with a tubeless setup. That may change if I get a lot of flats with my tube setup.
I like your work , we need more info and yours is very good and fair , Please always keep this your method, finding good content is very hard in 2024!!!!!
I’ll also add that I’ve been on road tubeless since 2016 and have had 3 punctures in all that time. One of those punctures was a suspected faulty tyre. There’s a slight maintenance overhead but the ride quality is better. Although, I am going to try with a tpu inner tube to see if there’s any difference.
Tubeless can be helpful in races (and fast group rides) with regard to avoiding flats assuming that sealant can plug the hole. For self supported gravel and XC races that are known to be have rocky sections, adding a tire insert can also help to avoid pinch flats that hole the sidewall. That said, the last resort of having to insert a tube into a tubeless tire with sealant during race can be very costly in terms of finishing position. and messy. WRT to efficiency, my take is that in lower categories (e.g. Cat 5, 4) there are other factors that have a greater impact on outcome than rolling resistance, e.g. drafting, optimized pack positioning, nutrition, hydration, etc. My $0.02.
I've use tubeless for about 2 years. Countless weekend rides, 1 century and have had no issues. Larger puncture will require a bacon strip (tubeless users no what I mean). Plug it, put some air in and away you go. Can't get any easier. Check your sealent levels is all you need to do as far as maintenance after setup.
To clean the sealant off a used tyre that still has some life left in it, get an old tyre and cut a 6” length of it. Rub that against the old sealant and it’ll come off easier than anything else I’ve used.
I’ve been riding tubeless for around 3 1/2 years without any punctures but because I do a lot of solo rides I am considering going back to clinchers, it’s always in the back my mind if i have a catastrophic failure, it would be a nightmare to deal with, plus the set up and maintenance of tubeless is so time consuming, I couldn’t get my conti 5000’s seated even with my tyre blaster pump,ended up going to my local bike shop.
I know a lot of people have difficulty with GP 5000 TL (first gen). I am lucky so far my tubeless seal up every time when I needed it but it require some maintenance. So I am mostly riding my clincher ATM.
I tried tubeless for about a year and didn't like them. They're messy, not as light as you'd expect, the rolling resistance isn't noticeably better, and you definitely don't want a major roadside puncture on a tubeless setup. I now ride on clinchers with TPU tubes, and it works very well for me: light, easy to set up and maintain, good rolling resistance, you can run higher pressures if you want, and you'll never have to deal with sealant again.
Ridenow tpu tubes for me all day, I been riding them for a couple of years now with no real issues, except for about 2 flats. My bikes are rim brake and I've never had an issue with tpu tubes , the weight savings alone are enough for me to switch from tubeless, never mind butyl.
Hoping for some unknown tricks. I use tubeless for our fat, mountain, and gravel bikes, but tubes for road bikes, partly because our road bikes are good vintage with non-tubeless compatible wheels. Trying TPU tubes for the first time, and they seem pretty nice. Considering putting a bit of sealant in them. Any 7:48 experience with that?
I have not experience putting sealant in a TPU. in fact some of the TPU valve is glued not threaded which make it tricky to add sealant. Maybe you can give it a try and share your experience?
Hello and thanks for the tips with clincher and tubeless tires… my question today is I was gifted a set of Pirelli tubeless but I only use tubes. So can I put tubes so I can ride them in spring 2025 ?
I have not had luck with the cheap Chinese TPU tubes. One of them was defective even before I got on the road. I took it out, put air into it, it was very deformed and had a huge leak. I know they're cheap, but I don't like this kind of practice
Tried tubeless on 2 wheelsets for road bike and went back to tubes. The refills and clogging my valves pissed me off so much. After then 3rd time replacing valves I ditched tubeless. My gravel bike is still tubeless for reasons mentioned. High pressure tubeless causes too much issues for my experience
@cycleandexplore 28c @ 70psi. To compare I've had 42c tires at 60psi without clogging the valves. The sealant used in the 28c was treks house brand...it just clogged even at 60psi
Great video! How about weight?Looking to Pirelli P Zero Race for example, 26c clincher 205 grams, 26c TLR 270 grams, 28c clincher 225 grams, 28c TLR 295 grams. Clincher version 53€, TLR version 64€, both sizes. With a tube like Continental Race Light 28 or Schwalbe Extralight 20 will be an extra ~ 80 grams with 6-8€ depending on presta length. Or TPU tubes which are lower weight, ~30 grams each. With a ~60 ml tubeless liquid will be ~60 grams extra. Minor difference ~200 grams lighter in clincher version. Also when you roll on tubeless you’ll need a spare tube so will be another 30-80 grams. Also you’ll need CO2 tubes as well, and a small pump, that’s another ~ 100 grams. Indeed, for events and races would help no questions asked!
That's good points, I found tubeless is going to be heavier and more expensive in general. That's why I think PTU and good quality clincher (like GP5000) is the best for everyday riding.
@@cycleandexplorewell, GP5000 it’s not a very good tyre. A lot of people are using it instead, even here, in Romania. Indeed, you’ll save a few watts, but how about cornering and wet situations? Also a lot of people knows about that 5000 versions it’s even worst than 4000IIs. A lot of Continental tyres are damaged by a lot of strings getting out from the tyre for both versions. I’m a photographer for Cycling Federation in our country and for different cycling events and maybe a lot of people does not observe these particular things, don’t care or don’t understand very well what’s happening. I don’t have anything against Continental, just an observation. Btw, after I weighed more than 100 tubes Race Light 28, non of them had 65 grams like they said. The closer was about 74-75 grams, and just a few. Different batches different years. Was just a personal curiosity.
If you get a flat on a tubeless it is always possible to put an inner tube and remove the tubeless valve. It is no big deal whatsoever to remove any sealant remnants.
I think you missed the biggest pro of tubeless!! The lower pressure means they can absorb bumps more easily and that makes the bike infinitely more comfortable than a 110psi clincher. There is no amount vertical compliance form the frame or the seat post that can do what lower pressure tires can do. Absolute #1 reason to switch. You also forgot the lower pressure means better grip which is safer.
Interesting point. In my opinion, the key to the optimum tyre pressure are: 1) The tyre's air volume (influenced by the tyre width) 2) Total system weight and 3) The road surface condition. Yes, tubeless does allow you to run lower pressure (40 PSI or lower) without a snake bite. However, running at such low pressure would mean losing watts for most road conditions. My setup's lowest would be 55 PSI on rainy days with wet surfaces. If comfort is your objective, sizing up your tyre would give you better outcomes (remaining optimum rolling resistance with lower pressure for better comfort).
@@cycleandexplore you’re forgetting about punch flats with tubes. In a perfect world, you’d’ look up all the variables such as road surface, tires width, rider weight, etc and ride your tire there. With tubeless you optimize and with clinchers, you can’t bc you have to have them minimum 100 psi to prevent pinch flats. So yes, tubeless bc not have the pinch flat issue allows your bike to be more comfortable. And I’m not talking 40 - I run my 30C road tubeless at like 50 psi vs if I had a clincher, I’d have to run it 100. There’s a world of difference between the feel of those 2 pressures
In my opinion most people over inflate their tubeless tires and run too skinny of a width to gain the best benefits of a tubeless tire. I run tubeless on road with 700x30 @65 psi. Lower psi is better for comfort, flat tire protection in puncturing and sealing and it allows the tire to have more give to road imperfections creating less deflection.
On my mountain bike tubeless is the way to go since it's almost impossible to avoid goat heads needles and sharp rocks, on my city bike I prefer tube tires for the simplicity and the tubes hold air much longer.
@@cycleandexplore I bought the regular gp5000 and currently running it with ridenow TPU tubes on Fulcrum Racing 3DB (which are both hookless and hooked compatible with their 2-way fit technology)
*BIKE SEATS END ALL:* "Turbo saddles wr king. Hard seats better." Not so fast: Best cushion ever made was humans muscle. Dogs foot under thin elastic skin. High thread count tire carcass deform waaay better over road reduce vibration transmitted 2bike/gigantic energy lost. Knobby tires will average 8mph on a 30 miler fireroads over a mt. Where slicks will average 12mph. Few people evr experience such LOWEST roll resistance tires. Parts that (actually) wrk = big money they keep u on endless tire shopping spree knobbie tread goose chase. Tire shall be slick period. Demons turn engineering in2 endless merry go round new&improve sucker bait. Yr engineers wr 2dumb2get it right th1st time? Ah i see. They deliberately engineer hidden demons. Keeps next new factory stocked. Try a plastic or carbon flexi carcass saddle mirrors Brooks with silicone gel over thin hard foam topped with elastic polished thin shiny leather or vynil shade net. Clear silicone = highest quality gel. 95% "gel" saddles corrupt deliberately compromised dry porous "gel." Not all silicones pure either. Just as days'v Noah 80% humans nephilem spirits = demons Satan place in human body with Hadron Collider hive mind cmouter cntrolled = yr corrupt goose chase merry go products they magicians cmpared2 u. Reptilian angels cntrol all demons. Your solar system used2b heaven. Satan: Jesus elder brother ruled creation u live in false reality he rule with cmputer. Can hack reality. People curse defective products those curses pwrful prayers if any1 rip u off simply send angel 2that cmpany. Seats shud be quick release like click in pedals. Just like when I designed brake lever shifter Dual Control 4Shimano overnight incinerated shifting wrldwide hasnt been improve evr or since. My Dual Control I built in garage 80g would last lifetime 10 parts counting washers. Shimano: Cost fortune heavy as a tank gadjillion teeny parts utterly impossible repair roadside. Gel: I had REAL gel seat, then every1 i got after was lousy corrupt "gels" bcuz gels WORKED. Asians: Predominantly Satans DIRECT DNA when he mate with Adams1st wife Lilith who had almond eyes. Asian culture admit: They descend from dragon (Jesus elder brother.) Who still serves Yahweh lol& puts all who reject Yahweh in h*ll. Burning his kids is a FOOD 2him. Theez Asians think he gonna bless thm. (Yahweh turn Halayel ("Satan") in2 humanoid scaled black snake with wings = now he cant mate anymore (Genesis 3:15.) = He why he preserve his bloodlines2 oppresses others. Satan putting all his biblical tare race in h*ll now. People'v become label humps specifications eliterate utterly disgustingly imbecile its terrifying they want chocolates& flowers advertising. Whatever caters 2their dillusional version of reality gut feel like Ed Van Halen did with his 1st Tesco Del Rey bells& priddy looking whistles guitar like we ALL do when day1 batsht novices. Ed had a brain& a good1 he learned = Ed built his own guitar. He knew better Satans a$$holes designed them ones on th shelvz. Get back 2square1. A Bicycle: Point A point B straighline carry sduff. Just as MUCH sduff as possible. Period. = Must be STRONG STRONG STRONG perfect ONLY handling. = NOT a$$up bent way over2narrow bars whippy spaghetti tube flexi frame. Handling: Low CG wide stable triangulation bars not thdiametric opposite = 10speed "road" bikes with deadly teeny tiny itsy bitsy yellow polkadot 160psi tires rolling under horrificaly crippling dangerous ergonomics narrow bars& sphaghetti flexi frame members. ALL road (motorcycles( shud look like a SUPERMOTO = epicenter motorcyle. *& bicycles MT. BIKE ONLY. Back in thday Lucifers kids used racing& hero appeal glorify/decieve shthed idiots in2 humping worst piece of cycling engineering evr worshipped that killed crippled millions while crippling ergonomics = road bikes. Satan HATES bicycles cuz they free energy deletes his money so he glorified idionic 10 speed. Perverted Mt. Bike racerboy concept however made bikes handle be durable light& STRONG. Big thank u 2them. People are idiots cant connect dots 4got thquestion manufactures quick2hump theez clowns made gut feel racerboys they president. I am not a race I'm a worldleader&bicycle = point&shoot carry sduff on safest ergonomicaly PERFECT bike built2last a lifetime. Motocross/supwrmoto bike = perfect riding position. Modern Turbo saddles: Best saddles of our modern era. Very thin hence highly elastic leather over foam FIRM foam. Leather is great. But when used wearing SILICONE gel shorts u could go 3 centuries on that hard little Turbo. Gel done correctly is king not Brooks rawhide Cow skin: Varies in quality4godsakes just use a piece of any# STABLE gadgillion choices u have in plastic. All a Brooks saddle is is a piece of rawhide engineered 2mimic plastic. "Oh but it conforms sooo perfectly 2 yr own anatomy" lol so does plastic minute u sit on it = what a car tire doing a gadgillion times a mile whole Brooks cult snobbery thing a liddle batsht looney somem1 ask "Do Brooks saddle get heavier in thrain?" Ofcourse they do they a 3/16 " leather sponge. Even if u treat top, water gonna splash up from bottom soak yo a$$ &that sponge of a seat. When i leave leather glove in rain = bad it begin digest th leather = tear easier. Brooks state: "No, Brooks saddles should not get heavier rain because they should not be ridden when wet. However, if Brooks saddle does get wet, it can be allowed to air dry naturally will be fine. Riding Brooks saddle during heavy showers or storing direct sunlight or heat for long periods can damage the leather. Likewise, the material we use will not be affected by rain. Cambium saddles are also available in a carved version for riders who seek to reduce pressure on the perineum or desire a more flexible saddle." Again put some silica gel over thin flexy durable plastic topped with 5mm glued on dense memory foam cover. Use 2 - 3 layers durable material say 2mm uv stable vynil shade net u will have th overwhelming epicenter of all saddles. There always1 in every crowd: Any1 saying "it doesnt wrk!" in comments = same "always subjective" person sdarting an alternate reality company with a few thousand people always willing2 5star Amazon review lunacy. Nobody noticed most importnt thing. People choosing identical basic characteristics/shape seen predominant now. Same as 3 of 10 seats i test won a shootout recently. Same bascic firm foam& SHAPE. There is MORE 2 this SHAPE then u people are grasp = I bought THREE seats Amazon while back held same pattern ($35 for 3 saddles.) My favorite BROLEO: With artificial fat/memory foam gel chro molly rails, SHORT nose 240mm& BIG CUTOUT = save weight 228 grams wider then ave. SLOPED SIDES left/right coupled with short nose = roomy standover/easy mount dismount VERY IMPORTNT. ...&YOU CAN CONSTANTLY MOVE AROUND ON IT EXPLOIT ITS FIRMNESS 2both REDUCE FATIGUE IN HANDLING THBIKE DISTRIBUTE PRESSURE POINTS simply balance better. Hide appropriately THIN&ELASTIC. AND slippery = allow perform constant precision gymnastics. (I also chose wide nose PTERSTY saddle & BEIDUOYANG $12 a piece.)
Nice summary of the pros and cons, thank you. It would have been nice to know the number and nature of punctures in each of the type of tire and the distance covered with those tires.
One of the big issues that I've had indirect experience with in relation to tubeless tires is that when one gets a proper puncture that won't seal and you have to put tube in, removing a tubeless valve by the side of the road can be a big issue.
Personally, I have found tubeless too much of a hassle and I'm sticking with clinchers and tubes. I have spent far more time trying to set up tubeless in my shed than I would have ever spent repairing punctures by the side of the road. Working in the shed can be nicer though.
For Clincher I had 1 punctures and 1 patch fail on my tube (nothing related to the product, I just didn't patch it well initially). For Tubeless I cannot really could as some small cut are not very noticeable. More noticeable puncture was in a time trial race which I am very happy it seal up without slowing me down at all.
I would not put a tube in unless that is your last option (e.g. phone out of range) while you out riding. I also agree that you would be spending more time to setup and maintain it compare to just change the tube when needed. I only use tubeless for events and races.
Good points. I’m considering going back to clincher and I think if you have the right combo of inners and tyre you can get quite close to tube less. Plus self sufficiency is a must especially if you’re on a cycling holiday and miles from home. Maybe a video on comparisons of rolling resistance for both tyre set ups in future….?
In my experience using Latex or TPU is very close in terms of rolling efficiency with Tubeless. Tubless = more work at the initial setup but easier on when it is up and running. More or less down to personal preference.
@@edwardmargot3288 I have been running tubeless for about 5 years after I got 3 pinch flats out on a 100k ride and thought 'there must be a better way'. However the journey into Tubeless was a steep learning curve. What I've learned:
1. Most tubeless sealant is crap, or at least way over-hyped. The worst I used was Silca, whereby it dried out so quickly and gummed all the carbon fibres to the inside of the tyre!
2. It's messy. Everytime you take off the tyre, there is mess to deal with.
3. I have never had medium holes seal properly. Yes, you may get home but you'll have to deal with the hole.
4. Some tubeless tyres can be a royal PITA to get on and off the rim.
5. You'll become best friends with your track pump!
That said, the best sealant I have used is milKit. It has some small fibres in it, thick enough that it doesn't blow straight out of a hole and is water soluble so it doesn't dry out and can be refreshed with a small amount of water. It seals the tyre to the rim so well (and doesn't dry out and therefore 'crack') that I only add air every 2-3 weeks
However, I have gone back to butyl inner tubes on my road bike after reading Bike Rolling Resistance's inner tube vs tubeless tests that suggest only a 3-4w per wheel saving for tubeless. I was giving it a spring service at the weekend and opened up the tyres and noted I had had to patched inside 6 times (Hitchinson Fusion5 Performance in 30c, an fantastic tubeless tyre in all respects!). What I have done now is use a lightweight butyl tube and added 20ml of milKit sealant. I have used this protocol successfully on my Commuter bike, whereby a small hole in the tube would 'seal' by having sealant trapped between the inner tube and tyre. I ran 3 days with a small weep of sealant out of the tyre and just patched the tube at the weekend.
My saddle bag is so much less complicated. A tube, small tube of glue, some patches, tyre levers and a co2 cartridge. Even if I have to fix a puncture on the side of the road I can do that without pulling off the wheel as I have a tell-tell sign of where the hole is!
I have just bought a used gravel bike and am not sure whether I will use the G-Ones tubed or tubeless. Because the tyre is bigger I can pop some of the bead off, wipe inside the tyre (the milKit does stick to the tyre like a latex sealant) and apply a patch to the inside of the tyre there and then. To me, the bigger volume tyre and lower pressure seems more suited to tubeless than a sub 30c road tyre.
HTH!
Always take 2 spare tubes for a group ride: one for myself and one for tubeless guys )
Hopefully I dont need one😉
I've run tubeless on my e-gravel and carbon road bike for five years and for the most part I've been happy with the results. I did get four flats in the last two years. Two of the flats were on my carbon road bike and both were caused by rim tape failure. The other two flats were my fault, in that I waited too long to replace the sealant and the fluid solidified and didn't seal a puncture.
This year I've changed my carbon road bike over to tubes, because to be honest I'm getting tired of messing with all the crap that's involved with a tubeless setup.
That may change if I get a lot of flats with my tube setup.
That's a fair call. I also come to learn the importance of quality rim tape as it failed twice when I setup the wheels initially.
great video :)
Graceful sharing!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I like your work , we need more info and yours is very good and fair , Please always keep this your method, finding good content is very hard in 2024!!!!!
Thank you for your support.
2 Road bikes tubeless, 1 gravel bike tubeless, 2 road bikes clincher/tubes. Absolutely prefer tubeless! Excellent video!
Right on!
I’ll also add that I’ve been on road tubeless since 2016 and have had 3 punctures in all that time. One of those punctures was a suspected faulty tyre. There’s a slight maintenance overhead but the ride quality is better. Although, I am going to try with a tpu inner tube to see if there’s any difference.
IMO TPU and tubeless ride quality are similar, you are not going to lose much.
Tubeless can be helpful in races (and fast group rides) with regard to avoiding flats assuming that sealant can plug the hole. For self supported gravel and XC races that are known to be have rocky sections, adding a tire insert can also help to avoid pinch flats that hole the sidewall. That said, the last resort of having to insert a tube into a tubeless tire with sealant during race can be very costly in terms of finishing position. and messy. WRT to efficiency, my take is that in lower categories (e.g. Cat 5, 4) there are other factors that have a greater impact on outcome than rolling resistance, e.g. drafting, optimized pack positioning, nutrition, hydration, etc. My $0.02.
I've use tubeless for about 2 years. Countless weekend rides, 1 century and have had no issues. Larger puncture will require a bacon strip (tubeless users no what I mean). Plug it, put some air in and away you go. Can't get any easier. Check your sealent levels is all you need to do as far as maintenance after setup.
Also can patch the puncture with patch kits.
I’ve been riding tubeless on gravel and XC MTB for years and have had no problems. I use Silca Ultimate Sealant and it is magic.
Good to know!
To clean the sealant off a used tyre that still has some life left in it, get an old tyre and cut a 6” length of it. Rub that against the old sealant and it’ll come off easier than anything else I’ve used.
Great tips 👍
I’ve been riding tubeless for around 3 1/2 years without any punctures but because I do a lot of solo rides I am considering going back to clinchers, it’s always in the back my mind if i have a catastrophic failure, it would be a nightmare to deal with, plus the set up and maintenance of tubeless is so time consuming, I couldn’t get my conti 5000’s seated even with my tyre blaster pump,ended up going to my local bike shop.
I know a lot of people have difficulty with GP 5000 TL (first gen). I am lucky so far my tubeless seal up every time when I needed it but it require some maintenance. So I am mostly riding my clincher ATM.
I tried tubeless for about a year and didn't like them. They're messy, not as light as you'd expect, the rolling resistance isn't noticeably better, and you definitely don't want a major roadside puncture on a tubeless setup. I now ride on clinchers with TPU tubes, and it works very well for me: light, easy to set up and maintain, good rolling resistance, you can run higher pressures if you want, and you'll never have to deal with sealant again.
TPU would be my choice except for situations like events and races that you don’t want to stop.
Got a pair of Token Konax, tubeless ready, I ripped out the tubeless tape and slap some rim tape and put the inner tube and tire.
Out of interest why did you ripped out the tubeless tape?
Dude you make awesome vids. Hope you find time to upload more often. Stay Blessed.
Thanks for your encouragement and support. I will do my best between work and family and keep the channel going.
Ridenow tpu tubes for me all day, I been riding them for a couple of years now with no real issues, except for about 2 flats. My bikes are rim brake and I've never had an issue with tpu tubes , the weight savings alone are enough for me to switch from tubeless, never mind butyl.
Hoping for some unknown tricks. I use tubeless for our fat, mountain, and gravel bikes, but tubes for road bikes, partly because our road bikes are good vintage with non-tubeless compatible wheels. Trying TPU tubes for the first time, and they seem pretty nice. Considering putting a bit of sealant in them. Any 7:48 experience with that?
I have not experience putting sealant in a TPU. in fact some of the TPU valve is glued not threaded which make it tricky to add sealant. Maybe you can give it a try and share your experience?
Innertubes are great for sealing the tubeless tire to one side of the rim so you dont need a special pump.
Hello and thanks for the tips with clincher and tubeless tires… my question today is I was gifted a set of Pirelli tubeless but I only use tubes. So can I put tubes so I can ride them in spring 2025 ?
100%, you can put tubs in any tubeless tires.
I have not had luck with the cheap Chinese TPU tubes. One of them was defective even before I got on the road. I took it out, put air into it, it was very deformed and had a huge leak. I know they're cheap, but I don't like this kind of practice
Tried tubeless on 2 wheelsets for road bike and went back to tubes. The refills and clogging my valves pissed me off so much. After then 3rd time replacing valves I ditched tubeless.
My gravel bike is still tubeless for reasons mentioned. High pressure tubeless causes too much issues for my experience
What pressure did you run on the tubeless?
@cycleandexplore 28c @ 70psi. To compare I've had 42c tires at 60psi without clogging the valves. The sealant used in the 28c was treks house brand...it just clogged even at 60psi
@bonbonflippers4298 may be the problem is the sealant. I used mud off sealant and valves running 75psi with no issues.
@@cycleandexplore true, my gravel bike has stans and works fine
Great video! How about weight?Looking to Pirelli P Zero Race for example,
26c clincher 205 grams,
26c TLR 270 grams,
28c clincher 225 grams,
28c TLR 295 grams.
Clincher version 53€, TLR version 64€, both sizes.
With a tube like Continental Race Light 28 or Schwalbe Extralight 20 will be an extra ~ 80 grams with 6-8€ depending on presta length. Or TPU tubes which are lower weight, ~30 grams each.
With a ~60 ml tubeless liquid will be ~60 grams extra.
Minor difference ~200 grams lighter in clincher version. Also when you roll on tubeless you’ll need a spare tube so will be another 30-80 grams. Also you’ll need CO2 tubes as well, and a small pump, that’s another ~ 100 grams.
Indeed, for events and races would help no questions asked!
That's good points,
I found tubeless is going to be heavier and more expensive in general. That's why I think PTU and good quality clincher (like GP5000) is the best for everyday riding.
@@cycleandexplorewell, GP5000 it’s not a very good tyre. A lot of people are using it instead, even here, in Romania. Indeed, you’ll save a few watts, but how about cornering and wet situations? Also a lot of people knows about that 5000 versions it’s even worst than 4000IIs. A lot of Continental tyres are damaged by a lot of strings getting out from the tyre for both versions. I’m a photographer for Cycling Federation in our country and for different cycling events and maybe a lot of people does not observe these particular things, don’t care or don’t understand very well what’s happening. I don’t have anything against Continental, just an observation.
Btw, after I weighed more than 100 tubes Race Light 28, non of them had 65 grams like they said. The closer was about 74-75 grams, and just a few. Different batches different years. Was just a personal curiosity.
For the same tyre width, you can have lower pressure with tubeless, which gives greater comfort.
I mostly ride with TPU tubes because of their convenience and low weight. I ride my various bikes to infrequently to make tubeless worth the effort.
I love TPU as well.
If you get a flat on a tubeless it is always possible to put an inner tube and remove the tubeless valve. It is no big deal whatsoever to remove any sealant remnants.
I have yet to experience this so I am keeping my fingers crossed 🤞
I think you missed the biggest pro of tubeless!!
The lower pressure means they can absorb bumps more easily and that makes the bike infinitely more comfortable than a 110psi clincher. There is no amount vertical compliance form the frame or the seat post that can do what lower pressure tires can do.
Absolute #1 reason to switch.
You also forgot the lower pressure means better grip which is safer.
Interesting point. In my opinion, the key to the optimum tyre pressure are:
1) The tyre's air volume (influenced by the tyre width)
2) Total system weight and
3) The road surface condition.
Yes, tubeless does allow you to run lower pressure (40 PSI or lower) without a snake bite. However, running at such low pressure would mean losing watts for most road conditions. My setup's lowest would be 55 PSI on rainy days with wet surfaces.
If comfort is your objective, sizing up your tyre would give you better outcomes (remaining optimum rolling resistance with lower pressure for better comfort).
@@cycleandexplore you’re forgetting about punch flats with tubes. In a perfect world, you’d’ look up all the variables such as road surface, tires width, rider weight, etc and ride your tire there. With tubeless you optimize and with clinchers, you can’t bc you have to have them minimum 100 psi to prevent pinch flats.
So yes, tubeless bc not have the pinch flat issue allows your bike to be more comfortable. And I’m not talking 40 - I run my 30C road tubeless at like 50 psi vs if I had a clincher, I’d have to run it 100. There’s a world of difference between the feel of those 2 pressures
In my opinion most people over inflate their tubeless tires and run too skinny of a width to gain the best benefits of a tubeless tire. I run tubeless on road with 700x30 @65 psi. Lower psi is better for comfort, flat tire protection in puncturing and sealing and it allows the tire to have more give to road imperfections creating less deflection.
Yap, it is just a smoother and faster ride
On my mountain bike tubeless is the way to go since it's almost impossible to avoid goat heads needles and sharp rocks, on my city bike I prefer tube tires for the simplicity and the tubes hold air much longer.
Thanks for sharing. My tubeless holds air better than my Clincher with TPU.
I failed setting up tubeless and I run them with tubes inside 😀
I had some trouble getting it seated and replaced the rim tape initially to get it setup. After that it was mostly fine.
bro i ride xc, is tubeless faster or not
I would be using tubeless for XC and gravel.
clinchers all the way. tubeless for MTB or gravel
Inner tubes all day every day.
Rim Brakes vs Rim breaks
Can I use clincher gp 5000 on a hookless rim?
Unlikely, it is designed for clincher with hooks so I would not expect it would work with hookless rims.
Tires have to be designed specifically for use on hookless rims. Trying to use a ordinary clinch tire on a hookless rim could be dangerous.
@@cycleandexplore I bought the regular gp5000 and currently running it with ridenow TPU tubes on Fulcrum Racing 3DB (which are both hookless and hooked compatible with their 2-way fit technology)
Tubes all day, quick and easy. Now using TPU and lighter 😂
4000k isnt much...
*BIKE SEATS END ALL:*
"Turbo saddles wr king. Hard seats better."
Not so fast:
Best cushion ever made was humans muscle. Dogs foot under thin elastic skin.
High thread count tire carcass deform waaay better over road reduce vibration transmitted 2bike/gigantic energy lost.
Knobby tires will average 8mph on a 30 miler fireroads over a mt. Where slicks will average 12mph.
Few people evr experience such LOWEST roll resistance tires.
Parts that (actually) wrk = big money they keep u on endless tire shopping spree knobbie tread goose chase.
Tire shall be slick period.
Demons turn engineering in2 endless merry go round new&improve sucker bait.
Yr engineers wr 2dumb2get it right th1st time? Ah i see.
They deliberately engineer hidden demons. Keeps next new factory stocked.
Try a plastic or carbon flexi carcass saddle mirrors Brooks with silicone gel over thin hard foam topped with elastic polished thin shiny leather or vynil shade net.
Clear silicone = highest quality gel.
95% "gel" saddles corrupt deliberately compromised dry porous "gel."
Not all silicones pure either.
Just as days'v Noah 80% humans nephilem spirits = demons Satan place in human body with Hadron Collider hive mind cmouter cntrolled = yr corrupt goose chase merry go products they magicians cmpared2 u.
Reptilian angels cntrol all demons. Your solar system used2b heaven. Satan:
Jesus elder brother ruled creation u live in false reality he rule with cmputer.
Can hack reality.
People curse defective products those curses pwrful prayers if any1 rip u off simply send angel 2that cmpany.
Seats shud be quick release like click in pedals.
Just like when I designed brake lever shifter Dual Control 4Shimano overnight incinerated shifting wrldwide hasnt been improve evr or since.
My Dual Control I built in garage 80g would last lifetime 10 parts counting washers.
Shimano:
Cost fortune heavy as a tank
gadjillion teeny parts utterly impossible repair roadside.
Gel:
I had REAL gel seat, then every1 i got after was lousy corrupt "gels" bcuz gels WORKED.
Asians:
Predominantly Satans DIRECT DNA when he mate with Adams1st wife Lilith who had almond eyes. Asian culture admit: They descend from dragon (Jesus elder brother.) Who still serves Yahweh lol& puts all who reject Yahweh in h*ll. Burning his kids is a FOOD 2him. Theez Asians think he gonna bless thm.
(Yahweh turn Halayel ("Satan") in2 humanoid scaled black snake with wings = now he cant mate anymore (Genesis 3:15.)
= He why he preserve his bloodlines2 oppresses others.
Satan putting all his biblical tare race in h*ll now.
People'v become label humps specifications eliterate utterly disgustingly imbecile its terrifying they want chocolates& flowers advertising. Whatever caters 2their dillusional version of reality gut feel like Ed Van Halen did with his 1st Tesco Del Rey bells& priddy looking whistles guitar like we ALL do when day1 batsht novices.
Ed had a brain& a good1 he learned = Ed built his own guitar.
He knew better Satans a$$holes designed them ones on th shelvz.
Get back 2square1.
A Bicycle:
Point A point B straighline carry sduff. Just as MUCH sduff as possible. Period.
= Must be STRONG STRONG STRONG perfect ONLY handling.
= NOT a$$up bent way over2narrow bars whippy spaghetti tube flexi frame.
Handling:
Low CG wide stable triangulation bars not thdiametric opposite = 10speed "road" bikes with deadly teeny tiny itsy bitsy yellow polkadot 160psi tires rolling under horrificaly crippling dangerous ergonomics narrow bars& sphaghetti flexi frame members.
ALL road (motorcycles( shud look like a SUPERMOTO = epicenter motorcyle.
*& bicycles MT. BIKE ONLY.
Back in thday Lucifers kids used racing& hero appeal glorify/decieve shthed idiots in2 humping worst piece of cycling engineering evr worshipped that killed crippled millions while crippling ergonomics = road bikes.
Satan HATES bicycles cuz they free energy deletes his money so he glorified idionic 10 speed.
Perverted Mt. Bike racerboy concept however made bikes handle
be durable light& STRONG.
Big thank u 2them.
People are idiots cant connect dots 4got thquestion manufactures quick2hump theez clowns made gut feel racerboys they president.
I am not a race I'm a worldleader&bicycle = point&shoot carry sduff on safest ergonomicaly PERFECT bike built2last a lifetime.
Motocross/supwrmoto bike = perfect riding position.
Modern Turbo saddles:
Best saddles of our modern era.
Very thin hence highly elastic leather over foam FIRM foam. Leather is great.
But when used wearing SILICONE gel shorts u could go 3 centuries on that hard little Turbo.
Gel done correctly is king not Brooks rawhide
Cow skin:
Varies in quality4godsakes just use a piece of any# STABLE gadgillion choices u have in plastic.
All a Brooks saddle is is a piece of rawhide engineered 2mimic plastic.
"Oh but it conforms sooo perfectly 2 yr own anatomy" lol so does plastic minute u sit on it = what a car tire doing a gadgillion times a mile whole Brooks cult snobbery thing a liddle batsht looney somem1 ask
"Do Brooks saddle get heavier in thrain?"
Ofcourse they do they a 3/16 " leather sponge. Even if u treat top, water gonna splash up from bottom soak yo a$$ &that sponge of a seat.
When i leave leather glove in rain = bad it begin digest th leather = tear easier.
Brooks state:
"No, Brooks saddles should not get heavier rain because they should not be ridden when wet. However, if Brooks saddle does get wet, it can be allowed to air dry naturally will be fine. Riding Brooks saddle during heavy showers or storing direct sunlight or heat for long periods can damage the leather.
Likewise, the material we use will not be affected by rain. Cambium saddles are also available in a carved version for riders who seek to reduce pressure on the perineum or desire a more flexible saddle."
Again put some silica gel over thin flexy durable plastic topped with 5mm glued on dense memory foam cover.
Use 2 - 3 layers durable material say 2mm uv stable vynil shade net u will have th overwhelming epicenter of all saddles.
There always1 in every crowd:
Any1 saying "it doesnt wrk!" in comments = same "always subjective" person sdarting an alternate reality company with a few thousand people always willing2 5star Amazon review lunacy.
Nobody noticed most importnt thing.
People choosing identical basic characteristics/shape seen predominant now.
Same as 3 of 10 seats i test won a shootout recently.
Same bascic firm foam& SHAPE.
There is MORE 2 this SHAPE then u people are grasp = I bought THREE seats Amazon while back held same pattern ($35 for 3 saddles.)
My favorite BROLEO: With artificial fat/memory foam gel chro molly rails, SHORT nose 240mm& BIG CUTOUT = save weight 228 grams wider then ave. SLOPED SIDES left/right coupled with short nose = roomy standover/easy mount dismount VERY IMPORTNT.
...&YOU CAN CONSTANTLY MOVE AROUND ON IT EXPLOIT ITS FIRMNESS 2both REDUCE FATIGUE IN HANDLING THBIKE DISTRIBUTE PRESSURE POINTS simply balance better. Hide appropriately THIN&ELASTIC.
AND slippery = allow perform constant precision gymnastics.
(I also chose wide nose PTERSTY saddle & BEIDUOYANG $12 a piece.)
:DD