If cycling feels like a chore to you, go bikepacking and bike touring. Or at the minimum due a cycling based vacation and travel with your bike. These are some of my favorite memories.
Even when I don't really feel like getting on the bike -much like a chore - it feels good to get going, gets better the further I ride, and feels great when I'm finished.
Its like that with every type of sport, when you are felling down is actually when you should go cycling the most instead of ruminating if you should or shouldn't
Yes, and it is really difficult to get a wheelset that is sturdy enough. Many wheelsets are limited to 110 kg , which is roughly a 95 kg rider with 5 kg helmet/clothes /luggage/water on a 10 kg bike. I prefer a heavy duty lightweight gravelbike. And when I say lightweight I mean light but sturdy enough, and probably significantly heavier than a light bike for 70 kg riders.
I would add a caveat: cycling industry doesn't cater to heavier riders. I'm 191cm, around 108kg. I'm bigger guy (big frame) I'm active, lift weights etc. Could lose few kilograms, but not over weight. Yet, getting the right bike or gear for me sucks. I ride xc mtb, but I've been looking into road bikes as well. Most of them have system limit of 110-115kg. That's bike, rider and gear combined. Same for wheel sets. Was thinking to upgrade my wheels, but same thing. True, for mtb I could get enduro/dh over built wheels, but then it's just more expensive also heavy wheels. One of the reasons I bought Giant bike is weight limit of 136. Way more than other brands that are available to me. Fortunately, I'm not too tall so I can get sizes I need, but if I were 5 centimeters taller, that would be an issue as well. So, yeah, cycling industry doesn't cater for smaller riders, but same works for heavier and bigger as well.
Not only overweight, but bigger/heavier in general. I have BMI of 22,6 (85kg, 194cm) - considering clothing, water, some snacks, spares etc. - it's already 90kg. Add more clothing and stuff for bike touring - 100kg+ easy. And then you're stuck with high PSI and harsh ride, cause not all bikes take even 28mm tyres 😂
Very few companies selling big enough clothing, very few companies selling shoes for wide feet. Most of my discomfort on the bike was solved with a 16mm (!) axle extenders which means people with wide hips are usually fudged as well.
@@KNURKonesur I wear size 48 shoes/13 in US, or about that. I have to ride in my old basketball sneakers, because I still couldn't find cycling shoes that fit me. Similar to clothing. Not all of us are skinny folks 🤷
Keeping it real 👏 My harsh truth is that it's the mainstream cycling culture that pushes elitism and consumerism, and the more I ride with my friends, the worse it has become. Keep up the fight for fun and common sense in cycling! ✊
Absolutely. I ride a modest bike with 105 and a modest kit and see all the bike snobs looking at me like I'm a peasant. In many cases, I drop them on some climb, and they lose their shit.
@@Alimukz I avoid them at all costs mate but often you see them on the road. Now if someone decides to join the group ride I can't do anything about it but just try to drop them on some climb 😜
Haha yup! I have 5 bikes...guess which bike i love riding on regardless if there's hills or just flats...the one that's heavy with heavy aluminum wheels. Because I can't tell the difference between 22lbs or 18lbs.
@@bonbonflippers4298 I have two out-and-back rides from my house that are ~32 miles. A really good, solid day on one of my mountain bikes can nearly match a bad day on my road bike. On average, the difference is only about 15-20 minutes. If you're riding solo? Weight doesn't matter, especially if you're talking about 1-2kg.
The bit about size calculators is bang on, I’m 6ft and every calculator I’ve used puts me on a “large” frame or 58cm and I’ve only ever had issues. I’m currently riding a Giant TCR in medium (54cm top tube) and it’s a night and day difference from what I was told to get.
@@srh148I’ve never had any issues having 54cm (I’m 6’0 as well) but later changed to a 56 after a crash since there was only 54cm carbon frame for £300 during Covid on wiggle. Since then, I’ve changed my position and stems many times but haven’t found the same comfort as I did with a 54cm.
Speaking of body position and aerodynamic gains, Ben Delaney did a wind tunnel test comparing gains with position on the bike vs going with a deeper profile wheel. He tested a Salsa gravel bike with 46 cm wide bars and very shallow wheels. First he changed the wheels out for deep profile wheels and gained about a 10 watt advantage. Then he changed the bars out for 42 cm wide bars and gained a 20 watt advantage.
Back in the day, bar width was based on an idea that relatively wide bars helped you breathe better. Shown to be nonsense especially on track. The old formula had me with a 44 cm or 42 cm bar for my very wide chest for torso length. I now have 38 cm bar - at age 69, with little time on bike for a few years, I'm as fast as 20 years ago! The aero benefit of narrower bars is astonishing but go too narrow and handling in emergencies is tricky.
Thanks for the shout out for us shorter people, mainly women but not exclusively and clearly from comments here, the big lads and lasses aren't catered for either. It's even harder if you have shorter than average leg length for your height. Marin are ok with standover..Knolly in Canada and there's a really busy FB group in the USA called "Short people bicycle swap meet". The Athertons have 12 sizes for their latest MTB bike but I don't know how small it goes... The FB group is pretty busy which shows that there is demand but talking to bike manufacuturers they say not! But it's mainly just plain not seeing the demand because there's very few very short people working for bike companies, I think!
Less short people, and like many sports, male dominated. Which favors Average Male Height - automatically disadvantaging women, and under-average height men (who are just as worthy of cyclists).
@1:16 As a smaller rider, I would say Trek also does a fairly good job with smaller bikes. My size 47 Domane SL comes with 165mm cranks, 36cm handlebar and 700c wheels stock.
@@jonpoon3896 perhaps, but I agree with vanw that Trek are doing a better job than other brands. My 50cm Lexa came with 38cm bars and I prefer them over the 42cm on my previous bike. It is a real shame that 650b isn’t an option on those really small frames, it addresses multiple issues for smaller riders.
Really appreciate the comment about gear range. I’m not in top shape, but nor am I a slug, and I find a 1:1 ratio just too hard for climbing steep hills. The new GRX (and similar) group sets are a good start, but IMO, having more options for smaller chainrings would make things so much better. 28/46 x 11-36 11-speed is my idea of heaven.
Since getting into adult cycling I quickly found that for me the determining factor was standover height. I’m 5’11 with a 750 mm inseam. I need a small or xsmall in most bikes. Reach is less of an issue for me. If I can’t safely dismount a bike nothing else matters. The lack of appropriate sizing from bike companies is disheartening in general. If you look at the range of sizes in men’s clothing vs range of sizes in bikes, it’s like they are operating on different planets with different species.
Ive been riding 12 years and I've only had one crash so bad It's given me a cautionary tale to give others. I got a used bike, and I didn't know what a worn cassette would do with a new chain. Which is jump of the teeths of the cassette at around 600 watts. I was commuting to work one morning and I stood up on the pedals to initiate a sprint. The chain totally let go of the cassette because the cassette was so worn. If your gears fail under a very high acceleration moment you will find that your foot flies to the bottom of the crank rotation and all your energy and weight are sent forward. I fell forward so hard my hips landed on my bars and I was kinda trapped on the bike by being draped over the bars with my feet hanging between the pedals and the fork and my torso hanging right above my front wheel with my bike still rollings at 9mph or so. I cant really remember how I hit the ground so hard but my hands broke my fall as well as they could but I bounced my chin off the sidewalk and slid on my face for a few inches. Gave me a bit of flapper on my chin and some road rash on my face. Only a full face helmet would have protected my face and we don't commute in those much. My warning to others who still have unscathed faces: MAINTAIN YOUR BIKE. If the bike shop says your chain is so worn out that it has worn out the cassette and chainrings too, listen to them and replace everything. If you try a new chain on worn components you could end up like me. Black. No just kidding but you can get seriously hurt.
Thanks for putting bike sizing into perspective with your own height and inseam. Although only a rough iteration - I am now convinced in sizing down my exploro racemax to 51 from previously 54. I am 175cm and inseam 82 I feel like this topic does not get old - please continue talking about this!
Different bike brands, appear to size up differently, even the stack can vary from brand to brand. I've been in the cycling industry for over 50 years and I struggle to understand sizing. But, old school horizontal frame, with an inside leg measurement (not inseam ) barefoot, crotch to floor : 82cm x 0.65 = a frame size of 53cm c-c ,as a starting point
Yeah it’s all individual. Applying your traditional sizing would result in me getting a larger bike than Francis even though he is taller. Obviously human differences are difficult to apply to sizes
@@catchmedoctor Francis is an ex professional and still in good shape and it's understandable that he can comfortably size down. Sometimes it's better to size up, depending on the type of cycling or cyclist you are, traditional touring for example, is often an inch /25mm larger. I'm 65 and I ride about 2cm larger than when I was racing, this is quite common, even ex professionals change the position on the bike as they age. Bike fit James is good, if you can keep up, I have to rewind and watch again. Makes a lot of sense.
@@harryrowland4734 your considerations are much appreciated. My 54 racemax is too long and my bike fitter suggested sizing down. It’s a gravel, geometries are even more crazy with those. Don’t want to reduce stem length as affects handling
You're pretty much like me. But I was buying my 1st road bike 15 years ago. Anyway. The choice was only 50 or 55. Nothing in between. Though 53 would be spot on (back then). This year I picked 52 and it is like a glove (though could pick integrated handlebar with 1 cm longer stem). Sad part is this 50-ish size today means absolutely NOTHING! You literally must go and check reach and stack - two most important values, to get a bike right for you.
I did the same thing during the virus kerfuffle because A. there was no racing B. training hurts and C. I was working my a--s off and didn't have time to ride. JRA is much more fun, but remember you're not burning as many calories so don't need all that food you're still inhaling. AMHIK I'd gotten back into training and was starting to feel fit again, but about 4 weeks ago a left turner tried to drive thru me. I'm feeling better, but can only ride every other day or so.
What a refreshing point of view, thank you. The frame size recommendations are always way wrong for me unless the calculations take inner leg height into account, and even then I go smaller. Handlebar width is one of the most important considerations as you rightly point out. It’s amazing when the correct fit comes together, then you know what really needs improving 😅
As a really tall rider (203cm), I hadn't considered how difficult it was for folk at the other end of the height scale. So even though my choice of bikes is quite limited, it's nothing like it would be if I was 50cm shorter. Great video - thanks for that.
Agreed, I'm 202cm and feel the same! However I massively struggle with wide fitting shoes - only Lake that is a viable option and they're pricey to say the least!
@@jshrpe check out Bont shoes. Im a taller rider also, but a midget by comparison to you(I'm 197cm) Bont do several widths, and iv found the regular wide suits me to a tee. They also do a double wide as well as a narrow fit. So 4 width options in total. Im in NZ, which means the manufacturer isn't far away, but I did see Bike Fit James say that they weren't being well supported in the UK, which is a real pity.
You NAILED IT when it comes to gearing! I swapped out the crank on one of my old road bikes, and man, what a difference! It had a 52/42 crank, which I swapped out for a 50/34, and that change enabled me to use my old road bike more. On my vintage Cannondale, I swapped out the middle ring for the same reason. It originally had a 50/44/28 setup. The LBS had a 34 tooth Biopace ring laying around, so I had him swap the 44 tooth ring for the 34, and again, it helped me out, big time. Having the proper gears, particularly in a hilly area, makes all the difference.
Regarding gearing. I use my race bike 70% for commuting. On weekends for sports. The gear ratio 11-32 wasn't good for me because around my village (in Switzerland) there are plenty of climbs up to 27%. 15% is quite normal. As there are no cassettes for the shimano 105 that goes higher than 34, I replaced the original cassette with a deore XT cassette 11-46. Now I can cycle to work or visit friends without getting covered in sweat and i can cycle uphill with a heavy shopping bag in one hand. :-)
Regarding groupset, I’d argue that it depends on what is on the bike. Tourney, for example, is not a great setup. Upgrading from Tourney to something reasonably affordable like Tiagra would make the biking experience much better. Plus, if you’re considering changing gearing anyway, it may be cost effective to upgrade the mech, crank and chain, too. There are some decent deals out there on drivetrain components.
I agree, there's a minimum set of features. It's hydraulic brakes and low gearing for me. I 100% don't regret swapping Claris to GRX400 (aka Tiagra) on my bike for both those reasons. But I'd get very little benefit going to GRX600/105 or higher unless I wanted to go 1x on that bike.
How can such good advice be on such a short video. Everything is spot on! I've also learned all this the hard way but in turn try to teach newcomers to cycling to make their journeys more enjoyable. Great content.
The gearing is so wrong on new bikes. I am a mtber and started gravel riding. I am use to a 32t with a 52t at the back. My gravel bike is equipped with a 40t chainring and 44t at the back… i feel like over 8% grade is so hard… I have decided to go with a 36T. It’s about enjoying the rides not surviving/suffering them 🤣
That's so true. My bike is 36 and 11-44 in the back (sram rival) and I am a very heavy rider at 99kg (and I already lost 16kg). I can push out okay numbers but uphill with that gear range it's still a struggle. I got myself zwift and I am serious about nutrition now. Only reason is biking hills. We have many of them here and I want to experience them with less weight. I have an ftp of around 290 watts but at that weight this power just vaporises. 😅😅
@ I have an ftp of 155 hahaha and weigh about 99-100KG. I need to loose weight. I am using rouvy. I pedal while watching content on youtube. Enjoy the rides
I'm also 178cm and I have bikes sizing from 52 cm to 57 cm (road, gravel, track) and I prefer the larger bikes. No toe overlap and no knee hitting the handlebar while out the saddle.
i'm 177cm and also have multiple bikes from 52-56. I feel like saying "always size down" is just as disingenuous as as saying always follow online size guides. I spent way too much time listening to reddit and riding tiny bikes. I was shocked when i got on a 56 and it felt normal and was actually more stable and comfortable.
A few factors: there are significant differences between markets such that German male heels tend to be different shape from UK male heels - which affects shoe design. Italian men are mostly much slimmer for a given height than most UK men and there are significantly different leg diameters. All this might not matter so much for normal looser fitting clothes but it can matter for sports gear. And the market for tight fitting bike clothes is not huge, even if it is a lot bigger than, eg, 25 years ago. Costs of making clothes with lots of cut and stitch lines are high. Perhaps the clothing companies should develop a sort of cartel whereby each selects a range of customer sizes and shapes they will focus on and market their stuff for precisely. It could mean that a large big fan of a skinny climber will not be able to get a duplicate kit. Quite likely, kit designed for professional and very elite amateurs will almost certainly never fit a normal person because those pros have unhealthy low levels of body fat, under developed arms and over developed legs. The very rich amateur who can afford a £10k bike without resorting to their parents dying and leaving them a big inheritance can probably afford a custom made suite of clothes from a specialist manufacturer. The rest of us will always have to compromise. So how to get more generic shaped clothes across a wider range of heights and weights? Be less focused on looking like a pro. Hope for and support companies that do make a wider, less specialized range and pay for that range (except folk in the centre of the bell curve will still do best). Check out good quality workwear from the likes of Englebert Strauss, Screwfix, Toolstation, etc. Bike clothing companies are not charities and not all are as big as Rapha to absorb massive annual losses in hope of a market turnaround
You're still riding! That's the main point, I love riding with the older boys and listening to their stories. I've met some fascinating blokes out on the road and trails. Well done to you my friend keep at it as long as you can. 👍
Brilliant stuff. Regarding small riders, Sonder are good. Colibri is the only off-the-peg bike that fits me AND you can buy frame only & fit suitable cranks, bars etc.
same height and ride a 56 i find it perfect. i have thought of going to a 54. but feel like a 56 with 90mm stem fits me nicely. did find on a trek emonda with seat mask, i was on edge of lowest mast height. gone back to a bike with trad seat post so can get a better position
You're spot on about sizing guides. I've learned to completely ignore them. I usually start out by looking at the horizontal toptube length. From experience I know what works well with a typical 90-100mm stem. If I'm between sizes I'll more often than not size up as I hate feeling cramped on the bike. Also because I'm not a fan of having 4 miles of seatpost showing (sorry, I grew up in the steel frame/horizontal top tube era and long seatposts just look dorky).
Love this kind of material, plus love the channel! My nr 1 harsh truth is that I got my first ever gravel bike a size too big. And now, it's reverse engineering for me - playing with saddles and stem and god knows what not, instead of admitting defeat and getting something more fitted to my body size.
I have heard several times that small sized Canyon bikes only comes with 650b wheels, and that is correct, but there is no problem replacing the wheels. I bought a Canyon Grizl 2xs with 650b 45mm wheels/tires to my wife, replaced them with 700c 32mm for road use. Not sure if it will work for all Canyon models, but no problems with Grizl.
I'm short , and I agree regarding Canyon and Pinarello. The current 2XS Ultimate SL models use 650B, but the SLX + CFR models use 700C. In addition, Specialized has Tarmac and Diverge in 44cm. Felt has several 43 cm and 45 cm road bikes. Both the Specialized and Felt are preferred by shorter women in my cycling club.
Good vid! Even a slow, casual commuter like me learned something (on a windy day, I'll be seeing if tight-fitting clothing can make it a bit easier. I have some but I normally wear baggier clothing to commute.)
yeah, 6'2" with braod shoulders, ride a "54cm" frame with 38cm bars (between tube centres, just measured), I did need to get a longer seat tube, worth it not to get smacked between the legs on rough ground when I've stalled and had to put both feet down... (it was a 58, my "real" size, for some reason I replaced the bike soon after) Groupset, in the past I'd have said "105 out of my cold dead hands" but the 5800 still does a job on the "indoor" bike with the later 7000 (?) doing outdoor duties on some very mixed terrain, both now likely same or worse then "lesser" groupsets like Cues, etc.
I'm into MTB, but I love your channel, as a lot of what you talk about applies to MTB as well! Small and often cheep or even free changes can make a big difference to comfort, safety and confidence. For MTB, and probably any bike, tires are the most important upgrade you can get imo. Forget the fancy forks, wireless groupsets and carbon stuff, at least as a beginner and if you don't have limitless money lol. You can get really decent tires for not much money. Nice tires are the real game changer. Also tyre pressure, which is free lol. Even the nicest tires are like 60-80 EUR each. But there is no way you can upgrade anything on the bike for that cheap that would make that much difference!!! Comfort, safety, more grip, better braking, cornering, confidence, speed... If you can't afford a bike fit, just play around with the settings one at a time... saddle hight and angle, position, stem spacers, handle bar position/angle. It takes some time to figure out what each change does, but you can get way more comfortable for free. The correct saddle size is probably the biggest comfort thing, and padded shorts! My stock saddle was too narrow for my ass bones so I always got numb down there and it was extremely uncomfortable. You don't have to get a fancy saddle, just the correct size will do wonders. If you have disk brakes, the cheapest way to upgrade the power is just getting bigger rotors and/or metallic brake pads. It's not cheap, but for sure cheaper than buying brand new brake sets.
I'm glad for my 40 to 42 gearing on my gravel group set. Got me up the 1900 m to Edelweißspitze with its last part being a 15 % cobble stone road. Then again, one of the rides in my group didn't even switch to his smaller chain ring!!!
I can say the "You need more gear" is erally a game changer ! I came from a 2014 Sram Red 11s 50/34 + 11/32 and went to a 2023 Sram Rival 12s 48/36 + 10/36. The 36/36 ratio is not wayyyy to different from the 34/32 but it still feels very very nice and enjoyable on a climb.
Hello!! Have you done a video on the frame sizes that bike manufacturers calculators recommend based on a rider's height ? What you said from 4:05 onwards was just a revelation to me. I too am 178cm high, and have always felt that my 56 Specialized bike is too long, I ended up changing the stem from 110mm to 70mm! It feels a bit twitchy now but I find it a lot more comfortable. I always thought I should have bought the 54 frame instead, but listening to you saying you have always ridden bikes size Small or 51mm top tube... WHOA.... what a revelation... I wish I could try one on that size... just to see the difference... This could be a game changer !
Agree with everything other than the group set upgrade. I went from SRAM apex mechanical to SRAM rival wireless and it’s proven to be a notable upgrade. Brakes are more reliable, the wireless shifting is super useful on those cold days when you lose feeling in your hands and the entire system has proven to be more reliable as the cables don’t stretch or get jammed as there are none. I think it’s more a case of “it depends” when it comes to group set gains from upgrading.
Hate to break it to you, but that's just justifying the purchase. Now if you'd gone to Red, you may have something. I've got a few mechanical Ultegra bikes, an Ultegra Di2 bike, a DA mechanical bike, a fixed gear, and a few classic bikes. Yeah, Di2 is nice, but definitely not 'needed.' Yeah, the Dura Ace is nice, but the Sachs New Success on my Paramount isn't too far off performance-wise ..and the Sachs is what? 30ish years older? The bike I ride most is mechanical Ultegra disc cause it has 32s on it and the roads around me aren't getting better with age
@ I’ve got ultegra mechanical and di2 too and you’re right, the difference between the two isn’t that big. However, the difference between sram apex mechanical and sram rival xlpr is massive. I still have the apex setup on another bike and I rode it yesterday. The difference is stark. It makes less of a difference on road vs gravel too.
Maybe a video re. how to deal with oversized bike? Sometimes damage has already been done and people wonder what’s the remediation when swapping to smaller bikes is not that easy?
I’ve got a Specialized Tarmac Sport size 44 and I am 1.50m. Love they do cater for small women. Love my 🚲. Got a bike fit before and it was the only option for me. Got. Bike fit once i’ve got it and have been very happy since. Got a Tri bike now and Canyon was the best option. But indeed very few options for small people.
Thanks for sharing your measurements Francis! The more I see other people’s heights/inseams the more I realize my next bike probably should be custom. I just wanna get more use out of my current rig while I improve. I’m on the tall end with 193+ cm height with 100cm inseam 😮
Dude actually the 56 cm recommended bike size from the Specialized website is not BS at all. I am also 1,78m tall and on a specialized bike, it is my perfect size!
I prefer my bikes on the small size. The first bike I bought in recent memory, twelve years ago, was a Small or Medium Small mountain bike. My road bike is a 56 cm frame; my shopping bike is a Medium, I'm 6'1", or 183 cm in new money. The seat post on the mountain bike was extended a cm past the limit; on the shopping bike its on the limit. I've not seen the limit marker on the road bike, its still well within the frame. They all feel fine to me, although the drop from the saddle to the handlebars makes the shopping bike and mountain bike tiresome on my shoulders on long rides. Luckily, I don't live far from the shops, or my office, and if I wanted to take the mountain bike off-road, the hill trails are closer still.
@@jonathanbouchard39specialized calculator told me 56. Got a sl8 in 56 and fits perfect. Front end is actually really low and if I got a 54 would be WAY too low.
True for small people and tall people like myself being 6'8. im on a 60cm Cannondale which is too small but it was the only thing I could buy that wasn't over 5k. I got a long stem and long cranks still way too crammed but hey no pain or injury from it for 3 years of riding so guess I just need to suffer through it be uncomfortable and be more aero.
I find that once the gear ratio goes below about 1:1 it becomes hard to balance the bike front - back under effort and avoid either spinning the back wheel, or having the front wheel rise up off the ground. But where those really low ratios help is on the commute / shopping, when you have a bit more weight in the panniers on the back wheel, and you really don't want to be putting in any effort anyway, just gently spinning slowly up the hill to the office.
Specialized have updated their sizing tool, i too was told i need a bike two sizes too large (56) but i went on there yesterday and now im back on a 52.
Huh, it has be on a 61cm now, but was 58cm last I checked (quite some time ago). Maybe it's a shin measurement, since I don't remember that when I was last looking. Looking at the geo, the 61 adds slightly more stack than reach, so I might be able to get along with that, but I doubt it.
#2 - for frames it's not just smaller riders, it's those of us who sit outside the usual 'dimensions'. I'm extra-long in the leg for my height, consequently hard to find a tall enough stack without going custom. And shorter cranks aren't just for short people, I'm 1.9m and run 165mm cranks.
Exactly. I have the opposite problem, I have quite short legs for my height and very long arms. I need a smaller size to get the normal amount of seat post showing and low enough stack, but that one doesn't have enough reach. A bigger size has too much standover height and too much stack.
I have stubby legs for my height, It's REALLY hard to find a bike that fits without the top tube so high I can barely stand over the bike when stopped.
When I moved from Peterborough (flat) to Bath (not flat at all) I initially struggled with my 1x 44 tooth crank and 10/40 cassette. Switching to a 38t chainring was inexpensive and put the joy back into riding.
I'm also 178cm with 86cm inseam, short torso, and 56 actually works a lot better for me due to higher stack height. The Canyon Aeroad in 56cm with its 90mm stem, 75mm handlebar reach and 0 offset seatpost is the best fitting bike I've ever ridden. When I ride my previous go-to 54s, the stack is too low and that is impossible to change unlike shortening stem, shorter handlebar reach and zero offset seatpost.
I second the note about groupsets, I run Claris(with a 105 crankset) even "high end" 8 speed chains are 1/4 the price of 11 speed, so I have a few waxed and ready to go, for less than 100 bucks. It saves a lot of work, my chain's always mint. And I keep up on group rides just fine.
I'm modding a Raleigh Twenty into a kind of folding MIni-Velo (because why not, seems like a laugh) and I was shocked how incredibly cheap anything sub 10 speed is. I couldn't get a single 105 Di2 shift lever USED for what I got the entire 8x2 drivetrain for, not even close.
Not that harsh, quite sensible really. Thank you Francis, I hope the algorithm is kind to you and you get to keep riding lots of fun bikes and telling us what you know.
Sadly they don't make bikes any more, but if you are checking the used market for smaller frames, check out Terry branded bikes. Keep in mind they use 650c wheels a lot of times which are different to the current 650b.
Totally agree on the bike size thing. I'm 6'2 and prefer to ride a 54 or 56cm frame. I'm supposed to be riding at least a 58cm and it made cycling a chore. Dropping down a size has made it much more enjoyable, and a lot more comfortable. My partner is 5'2 and finding a bike to fit her is a nightmare. She's supposed to ride a 48cm, according to her bike brand Cannondale, but we've had to change loads of bits on it for her to be able to ride it for any sustained period of time.
@@thepatternforms859 im guessin u mean the other guy but still so much today depends on geo and riding style. mine is a faran 58T and im more uprighty with a "low aerobar" if i need to be more aero, i very seldomly use the drops. thinking of cutting them off quite a bit. i love being in the hoods and the aerobar. mayn road bike racer guys i know ride 1 or even 2 sizes smaller than ud think. the angle of your shoulders changes
@@benjaminmirt5029 makes no sense. If a person is for example 5” 10 and suppose to be on a size 56 with a 31inch saddle height and they get onto a bike that is a 54 or 52 the saddle will be the same height but the bars will be WAY WAY WAY too low. Especially on a modern race bike that is usually already very low. For example on a sl8 size 56 I use all the available spacers and my back is still totally flat… no possible way to slam the stem bc my back would be slopped way down hill and knees hitting my chest…. So all this talk about people riding bikes that are one or two sizes too small makes no sense to me
@@thepatternforms859 first of all humans differ vastly in leg length to height ratio and arm length. again geos also differ tremendously. because humans differ so much fairlight has a T and R version to each size. e.g. the Strael 56R has the same stack as the sl8 but the Strael 56T has 35mm more stack, meaning if reach on a 58 would be too much and stack too high bc ur saddle would be uneccessarily low you can choose a 56T and the fit will be much better. furthermore imho companys like specialized do not leave enough steerer tube to offer customization. for all i care they might aswell come slammed with that tiny margin. im also not into extreme competetive cycling and believe that leaving more wiggle for when u get older or just cant sustain a riding position anymore is a good idea. slamming sounds cool as long as u dont have to get extenders or buy a new fork or bike bc ur back hurts. i rather not sound cool.
I be happy with my 3 speed bicycle s from the 50s & '60s. Great Britain 🇬🇧 made ( steel). Your 7 revealed knowledge is awesome, because they are true 🎉
Hi guys !! Have you done the video where you ride bikes based on the different frame sizes recommended by the manufacturers on line calculators ?? I am VERY keen to see what you can conclude on this... Cheers !
I saw his information out there about Nutrition and now there’s kicking in and pushing key tones that the rest of us who are trying to get to a good level, but not professional level are getting confused. Myself, I’m now beginning to make my own gels, which is actually quite easy and fun. It helps me take more control what I’m putting in my body as well as no goo stains in my back bibs,
Brilliant video, particularly the part about gearing. What is the stigma surrounding larger cassettes on road bikes? 🤣🤣 I put a 11-40 on mine, front is 50-34. can go anywhere on it, did Great Dunn Fell with it and no, I would not have been able to do that without the big cassette. So what. Sue me lol. I was well chuffed. I live in a very hilly area, I'm fit as a lop and it's because I have much greater access to the climbs here. BTW, Di2 shifts great with that big cassette. No problem at all.
@Cade_Media difficulty to ride up hill is not “not enough gear”, it s not enough range. Otherwise, people will think they need to go for 12s from 11s for example which goes against previous comment about groupset upgrade. Regarding size, i have the same issue (just 40mm shorter), a online retailer advised a 54/medium bike and i had to ride with 70mm stem which was ok but a short seatpost which was very rigid. Went for a kinesis frame (they advised a 52frame but, i modelled on a free cad software my bike vs the kinesis frame and found that a 50mm was a match. Result is perfect and confortable.
Great insights, really interesting. But bar tape? Tubeless tyres? Are these really such great upgrades? How much room for quality-of-ride improvement do different bar tapes offer? And I've heard that tubeless can be a messy pain in the arse that is probably not worth bothering with if you're not racing or at least riding an awful lot.
Started getting out on my bike more over the summer and one of the guys on the group ride mentioned he wasn't surprised I am struggling on the climbs only having an 8 speed cassette. I thought he was just being nice about dropping me.. turns out you just said the same thing!!
How many more videos can you crank out from the bush? With regards to bike sizes, I've found that Salsa cycles are accurate in their frame sizing. 52 actually measure 52 on the top tube and it's the size I use from them wherein I would have been a 48-49 in other big brand bikes.
They don’t service tall orders withers lol. I had to drive 7 hours to find the lone 64cm Specialized Diverge on the East Coast USA. I’ve never seen another one in a shop and never in stock online
I really liked this video! I always enjoyed training more than racing. With apps like Strava, I can enjoy setting PRs and never have to compare myself to anyone but me. At 56-years of age, all I need is a bike that works and that fits. I liked your comment about Pogacar probably winning on the slowest bike. Ha Ha!
This is the first I've heard about sizing down the bike. I am shorter at 5'9" and have ridden a Medium 54 for 10 years without ever trying anything else. Now I am thinking I at least ought to try a small 52
Loved it! I want to buy a Canyon Aeroad, I am 1,78cm like you, and according to Canyon I'm between sizes S and M so i guess i should go for the S (I have a Cannondale SystemSix in size 54).
Spot on about bike brands not serving shorter riders, but this is a reflection of pervasive societal discrimination against shortness. As but one example, clothing manufacturers also do not serve short people well. There is widespread bigotry against short people. It is long past time for a civil rights movement for short people.
122kg 6'2", 32" inseem. Big strong legs. Finding bib shorts or jersey's challenging. The latter with the onset of the aerodynamic bolge. Madison brand over trousers do fit comfortably. More manufacturers should specify thigh diameter on the size chart. Mostly riding a Marin headlands 2, carbon with a touch of carbon. Not seen any weight related bike issues, save from a recent free hub engagement issue on the smallest cog. Bike is set-up with GRX 810 running 44t 11/51T. Yepp garbaruk ospw cage to make the jump from 11/42t cassette. 40c tyres - 40psi with Vittoria inserts. Inserts make a big difference in that they dampen out what I would call the rocking house effect. Bit like driving the original 2 seat smart car. Does atticus cater for riders at the edges of other company's size ranges?
Really happy about your opinion on point 6. There is still to many bike shops that didn't come so far yet and are still stuck with old clichés. I'm 1,81m and weigh 60kg...I love bike packing trips and some smaller climbs (max 1000m elevation per day). I went to my local bike shop with the idea of switching from Ultegra cranks 50/34 with a 11-32 cassette to GRX 46/30 cranks with a 11-34 cassette. They looked at me and said, we can change your cassette but looking at your silhouette you shouldn't change your cranks. Just train a bit harder...
How do you get to be 60 kg and 181 cm? Sounds like Pogacar! Jealous! I'm 180 cm and my perfect BMI is 70 kg which feels great. Any lighter and I lose strength (but I want strength for running, swimming, and upper body muscle for heavy-duty DiY work. I'd like to fit shorter cranks (down from 172.5 to 165 mm as I agree with the theory and thoroughly enjoyed shorter cranks on my fixed gear track bike on which I could sustain speed and revs for 5 miles or more on flat roads while praying for an excuse to ease up!). Mildly seriously, you might consider GCN videos about strength training. 46*11 is not a big gear if you want to ride fast on the level, on smooth tarmac, or with a following breeze. I've found putting on some strength has been hugely beneficial in many areas of activity vs the years I spent as light weight. That is not the same as 'train harder'. You might do less 'training' and train less hard but make better use of the time doing it. Building upper body strength and stretching sinews with press-ups, hanging from a chinning bar (no need to do pull-ups - I can't do them), and swinging kettle weights all contribute to being able to hold position on a bike for longer, look back more easily, do DiY work overhead for more than a few minutes at age 65+ when you couldn't manage it in the 50 years before.
4:05 mark, online bike (size) calculators are mostly wrong.. that goes with pressure as well! i used silca to advise me on tire pressure. Got 2x punctures in < 1mth of owning my brand new bike!
On the bike size issue: I agree, get a fit first if you can, but results may vary. I'm a fraction taller than Francis (179 cm) and ride 55/56 cm frames, comfortably. No weird stem lengths etc.
Thanks for this deeply profound but sorely absent common sense. I used to tell people three things about bikes. It doesn’t matter (above a point) how much you spend on a bike, you still have to pedal it, you still get wet when it rains, and don’t buy shit sooo $$$ that you can’t replace it if you crash.
Nice Video - regaring the bike industry not serving small riders: I think it is not just "small", but simply "atypical". I am 190 cm, with very long legs, and short arms, so a regular XL has a far too long reach for me. Again, Canyon (like with their smart decision to use 650 wheels on their small frames) did help me with going for an Endurace frame... Regarding group sets - in the beginning, they are all same. But there are more still excellent shifting Dura Ace derailleurs than 105er. I stick with Ultegra or Dura Ace...
If cycling feels like a chore to you, go bikepacking and bike touring. Or at the minimum due a cycling based vacation and travel with your bike. These are some of my favorite memories.
Even when I don't really feel like getting on the bike -much like a chore - it feels good to get going, gets better the further I ride, and feels great when I'm finished.
Its like that with every type of sport, when you are felling down is actually when you should go cycling the most instead of ruminating if you should or shouldn't
would also add "the cycling industry doesn't cater to overweight riders"
Yes, and it is really difficult to get a wheelset that is sturdy enough. Many wheelsets are limited to 110 kg , which is roughly a 95 kg rider with 5 kg helmet/clothes /luggage/water on a 10 kg bike. I prefer a heavy duty lightweight gravelbike. And when I say lightweight I mean light but sturdy enough, and probably significantly heavier than a light bike for 70 kg riders.
I would add a caveat: cycling industry doesn't cater to heavier riders. I'm 191cm, around 108kg. I'm bigger guy (big frame) I'm active, lift weights etc. Could lose few kilograms, but not over weight. Yet, getting the right bike or gear for me sucks. I ride xc mtb, but I've been looking into road bikes as well. Most of them have system limit of 110-115kg. That's bike, rider and gear combined. Same for wheel sets. Was thinking to upgrade my wheels, but same thing. True, for mtb I could get enduro/dh over built wheels, but then it's just more expensive also heavy wheels. One of the reasons I bought Giant bike is weight limit of 136. Way more than other brands that are available to me. Fortunately, I'm not too tall so I can get sizes I need, but if I were 5 centimeters taller, that would be an issue as well. So, yeah, cycling industry doesn't cater for smaller riders, but same works for heavier and bigger as well.
Not only overweight, but bigger/heavier in general. I have BMI of 22,6 (85kg, 194cm) - considering clothing, water, some snacks, spares etc. - it's already 90kg. Add more clothing and stuff for bike touring - 100kg+ easy. And then you're stuck with high PSI and harsh ride, cause not all bikes take even 28mm tyres 😂
Very few companies selling big enough clothing, very few companies selling shoes for wide feet. Most of my discomfort on the bike was solved with a 16mm (!) axle extenders which means people with wide hips are usually fudged as well.
@@KNURKonesur I wear size 48 shoes/13 in US, or about that. I have to ride in my old basketball sneakers, because I still couldn't find cycling shoes that fit me. Similar to clothing. Not all of us are skinny folks 🤷
Keeping it real 👏
My harsh truth is that it's the mainstream cycling culture that pushes elitism and consumerism, and the more I ride with my friends, the worse it has become. Keep up the fight for fun and common sense in cycling! ✊
The industry, and lots of media are guilty of this......when most normal people just aren't interested in that side - but aren't catered for.
Keep for fun - is enough 😊
Absolutely. I ride a modest bike with 105 and a modest kit and see all the bike snobs looking at me like I'm a peasant. In many cases, I drop them on some climb, and they lose their shit.
@@christosandreev6392rooting for you dude! Fuck those snobs, I'd advise not to ride with such people in the first place
@@Alimukz I avoid them at all costs mate but often you see them on the road. Now if someone decides to join the group ride I can't do anything about it but just try to drop them on some climb 😜
i want to see the recommended frame size vid now!
That's like a recommended shoe size vid...get what fits
@@matthewlewis2072 in a world where online shopping exists, this is easier said than done mate :)
Unless you are at your optimum weight don't worry about bike weight, it's cheaper to lose bulk off yourself.
But so much easier to throw money at the problem, LOL!... You are so right.
Haha yup! I have 5 bikes...guess which bike i love riding on regardless if there's hills or just flats...the one that's heavy with heavy aluminum wheels. Because I can't tell the difference between 22lbs or 18lbs.
@@bonbonflippers4298 I have two out-and-back rides from my house that are ~32 miles. A really good, solid day on one of my mountain bikes can nearly match a bad day on my road bike. On average, the difference is only about 15-20 minutes. If you're riding solo? Weight doesn't matter, especially if you're talking about 1-2kg.
The bit about size calculators is bang on, I’m 6ft and every calculator I’ve used puts me on a “large” frame or 58cm and I’ve only ever had issues. I’m currently riding a Giant TCR in medium (54cm top tube) and it’s a night and day difference from what I was told to get.
Any calculator that just uses height is inadequate. Need leg length, torso length, arm reach at the barest minimum of measurements
I am 6 feet ride the exact same bike and a 58 fits me perfect. And I’ll bet you $100 your toes hit your front tire when you turn your handlebars……
@ Better get that $100 ready because they don’t. The whole point is that height alone isn’t a good enough gauge for what size bike you need.
@@srh148I’ve never had any issues having 54cm (I’m 6’0 as well) but later changed to a 56 after a crash since there was only 54cm carbon frame for £300 during Covid on wiggle.
Since then, I’ve changed my position and stems many times but haven’t found the same comfort as I did with a 54cm.
Speaking of body position and aerodynamic gains, Ben Delaney did a wind tunnel test comparing gains with position on the bike vs going with a deeper profile wheel. He tested a Salsa gravel bike with 46 cm wide bars and very shallow wheels. First he changed the wheels out for deep profile wheels and gained about a 10 watt advantage. Then he changed the bars out for 42 cm wide bars and gained a 20 watt advantage.
So smaller bars and wider profile = more watts? nice to know
Back in the day, bar width was based on an idea that relatively wide bars helped you breathe better. Shown to be nonsense especially on track. The old formula had me with a 44 cm or 42 cm bar for my very wide chest for torso length. I now have 38 cm bar - at age 69, with little time on bike for a few years, I'm as fast as 20 years ago! The aero benefit of narrower bars is astonishing but go too narrow and handling in emergencies is tricky.
@@cuebj OOOOOH interesting!! i didn't knew that ! amazing!!
dayum you rock !!
Thanks for the shout out for us shorter people, mainly women but not exclusively and clearly from comments here, the big lads and lasses aren't catered for either. It's even harder if you have shorter than average leg length for your height. Marin are ok with standover..Knolly in Canada and there's a really busy FB group in the USA called "Short people bicycle swap meet". The Athertons have 12 sizes for their latest MTB bike but I don't know how small it goes... The FB group is pretty busy which shows that there is demand but talking to bike manufacuturers they say not! But it's mainly just plain not seeing the demand because there's very few very short people working for bike companies, I think!
Less short people, and like many sports, male dominated. Which favors Average Male Height - automatically disadvantaging women, and under-average height men (who are just as worthy of cyclists).
Francis, some of the best knowledge sharing I've heard in a while. 👏👏👏👏
A true service to the cycling community. More of this please.
@1:16 As a smaller rider, I would say Trek also does a fairly good job with smaller bikes. My size 47 Domane SL comes with 165mm cranks, 36cm handlebar and 700c wheels stock.
That size should come with 160mm cranks
@@jonpoon3896 perhaps, but I agree with vanw that Trek are doing a better job than other brands. My 50cm Lexa came with 38cm bars and I prefer them over the 42cm on my previous bike. It is a real shame that 650b isn’t an option on those really small frames, it addresses multiple issues for smaller riders.
Really appreciate the comment about gear range. I’m not in top shape, but nor am I a slug, and I find a 1:1 ratio just too hard for climbing steep hills. The new GRX (and similar) group sets are a good start, but IMO, having more options for smaller chainrings would make things so much better. 28/46 x 11-36 11-speed is my idea of heaven.
100 percent correct. A kindred spirit
Agree on this too. Shimano are particularly bad at this offering g poor range, even on GRX gravel sets.
Since getting into adult cycling I quickly found that for me the determining factor was standover height. I’m 5’11 with a 750 mm inseam. I need a small or xsmall in most bikes. Reach is less of an issue for me. If I can’t safely dismount a bike nothing else matters. The lack of appropriate sizing from bike companies is disheartening in general. If you look at the range of sizes in men’s clothing vs range of sizes in bikes, it’s like they are operating on different planets with different species.
Ive been riding 12 years and I've only had one crash so bad It's given me a cautionary tale to give others. I got a used bike, and I didn't know what a worn cassette would do with a new chain. Which is jump of the teeths of the cassette at around 600 watts. I was commuting to work one morning and I stood up on the pedals to initiate a sprint. The chain totally let go of the cassette because the cassette was so worn. If your gears fail under a very high acceleration moment you will find that your foot flies to the bottom of the crank rotation and all your energy and weight are sent forward. I fell forward so hard my hips landed on my bars and I was kinda trapped on the bike by being draped over the bars with my feet hanging between the pedals and the fork and my torso hanging right above my front wheel with my bike still rollings at 9mph or so. I cant really remember how I hit the ground so hard but my hands broke my fall as well as they could but I bounced my chin off the sidewalk and slid on my face for a few inches. Gave me a bit of flapper on my chin and some road rash on my face. Only a full face helmet would have protected my face and we don't commute in those much. My warning to others who still have unscathed faces: MAINTAIN YOUR BIKE. If the bike shop says your chain is so worn out that it has worn out the cassette and chainrings too, listen to them and replace everything. If you try a new chain on worn components you could end up like me. Black. No just kidding but you can get seriously hurt.
Thanks for putting bike sizing into perspective with your own height and inseam. Although only a rough iteration - I am now convinced in sizing down my exploro racemax to 51 from previously 54.
I am 175cm and inseam 82
I feel like this topic does not get old - please continue talking about this!
Different bike brands, appear to size up differently, even the stack can vary from brand to brand. I've been in the cycling industry for over 50 years and I struggle to understand sizing.
But, old school horizontal frame, with an inside leg measurement (not inseam ) barefoot, crotch to floor : 82cm x 0.65 = a frame size of 53cm c-c ,as a starting point
Yeah it’s all individual. Applying your traditional sizing would result in me getting a larger bike than Francis even though he is taller. Obviously human differences are difficult to apply to sizes
@@catchmedoctor Francis is an ex professional and still in good shape and it's understandable that he can comfortably size down.
Sometimes it's better to size up, depending on the type of cycling or cyclist you are, traditional touring for example, is often an inch /25mm larger.
I'm 65 and I ride about 2cm larger than when I was racing, this is quite common, even ex professionals change the position on the bike as they age.
Bike fit James is good, if you can keep up, I have to rewind and watch again. Makes a lot of sense.
@@harryrowland4734 your considerations are much appreciated.
My 54 racemax is too long and my bike fitter suggested sizing down. It’s a gravel, geometries are even more crazy with those. Don’t want to reduce stem length as affects handling
You're pretty much like me. But I was buying my 1st road bike 15 years ago. Anyway. The choice was only 50 or 55. Nothing in between. Though 53 would be spot on (back then). This year I picked 52 and it is like a glove (though could pick integrated handlebar with 1 cm longer stem). Sad part is this 50-ish size today means absolutely NOTHING! You literally must go and check reach and stack - two most important values, to get a bike right for you.
Point 3 resonates with me. I'm currently taking an extended break from structured training and really enjoying cycling again.
I did the same thing during the virus kerfuffle because A. there was no racing B. training hurts and C. I was working my a--s off and didn't have time to ride. JRA is much more fun, but remember you're not burning as many calories so don't need all that food you're still inhaling. AMHIK
I'd gotten back into training and was starting to feel fit again, but about 4 weeks ago a left turner tried to drive thru me. I'm feeling better, but can only ride every other day or so.
I love structured training, but I incorporated outdoor riding into it and social riding. With some of the apps it integrates really well these days.
What a refreshing point of view, thank you. The frame size recommendations are always way wrong for me unless the calculations take inner leg height into account, and even then I go smaller. Handlebar width is one of the most important considerations as you rightly point out. It’s amazing when the correct fit comes together, then you know what really needs improving 😅
As a really tall rider (203cm), I hadn't considered how difficult it was for folk at the other end of the height scale. So even though my choice of bikes is quite limited, it's nothing like it would be if I was 50cm shorter. Great video - thanks for that.
Agreed, I'm 202cm and feel the same! However I massively struggle with wide fitting shoes - only Lake that is a viable option and they're pricey to say the least!
Also agreed. Ever seen a clown on a tiny bike? similar to being tall on most regular brands bikes biggest frames, any discipline.
@@jshrpe check out Bont shoes. Im a taller rider also, but a midget by comparison to you(I'm 197cm)
Bont do several widths, and iv found the regular wide suits me to a tee. They also do a double wide as well as a narrow fit. So 4 width options in total. Im in NZ, which means the manufacturer isn't far away, but I did see Bike Fit James say that they weren't being well supported in the UK, which is a real pity.
You NAILED IT when it comes to gearing! I swapped out the crank on one of my old road bikes, and man, what a difference! It had a 52/42 crank, which I swapped out for a 50/34, and that change enabled me to use my old road bike more. On my vintage Cannondale, I swapped out the middle ring for the same reason. It originally had a 50/44/28 setup. The LBS had a 34 tooth Biopace ring laying around, so I had him swap the 44 tooth ring for the 34, and again, it helped me out, big time. Having the proper gears, particularly in a hilly area, makes all the difference.
Regarding gearing. I use my race bike 70% for commuting. On weekends for sports.
The gear ratio 11-32 wasn't good for me because around my village (in Switzerland) there are plenty of climbs up to 27%. 15% is quite normal. As there are no cassettes for the shimano 105 that goes higher than 34, I replaced the original cassette with a deore XT cassette 11-46. Now I can cycle to work or visit friends without getting covered in sweat and i can cycle uphill with a heavy shopping bag in one hand. :-)
I run 1x on my gravel/road bike with a 44 chainring and 11-46 cassette for the same reasons. Live in Scotland.
105 has a 11-34 cassette I'm pretty sure
105 11 and 12 speed do have 11-36 kassette offers but deore 11-4X is a pro move too
@@br5380 I've cycled 1300 km around the Scotish highlands. One of the most beautiful places I've been (42 countries).
Did you have to swap out your rear derailleur?
Regarding groupset, I’d argue that it depends on what is on the bike. Tourney, for example, is not a great setup. Upgrading from Tourney to something reasonably affordable like Tiagra would make the biking experience much better. Plus, if you’re considering changing gearing anyway, it may be cost effective to upgrade the mech, crank and chain, too. There are some decent deals out there on drivetrain components.
I agree, there's a minimum set of features. It's hydraulic brakes and low gearing for me. I 100% don't regret swapping Claris to GRX400 (aka Tiagra) on my bike for both those reasons. But I'd get very little benefit going to GRX600/105 or higher unless I wanted to go 1x on that bike.
How can such good advice be on such a short video. Everything is spot on! I've also learned all this the hard way but in turn try to teach newcomers to cycling to make their journeys more enjoyable. Great content.
One of the best vids in a while. Great delivery of really well prioritized information!
Love your honest delivery... bikes are fun-no matter what on, where to or with who it's with.
The gearing is so wrong on new bikes. I am a mtber and started gravel riding.
I am use to a 32t with a 52t at the back.
My gravel bike is equipped with a 40t chainring and 44t at the back… i feel like over 8% grade is so hard…
I have decided to go with a 36T. It’s about enjoying the rides not surviving/suffering them 🤣
That's so true. My bike is 36 and 11-44 in the back (sram rival) and I am a very heavy rider at 99kg (and I already lost 16kg). I can push out okay numbers but uphill with that gear range it's still a struggle. I got myself zwift and I am serious about nutrition now. Only reason is biking hills. We have many of them here and I want to experience them with less weight. I have an ftp of around 290 watts but at that weight this power just vaporises. 😅😅
@ I have an ftp of 155 hahaha and weigh about 99-100KG.
I need to loose weight.
I am using rouvy. I pedal while watching content on youtube.
Enjoy the rides
I'm also 178cm and I have bikes sizing from 52 cm to 57 cm (road, gravel, track) and I prefer the larger bikes. No toe overlap and no knee hitting the handlebar while out the saddle.
i'm 177cm and also have multiple bikes from 52-56. I feel like saying "always size down" is just as disingenuous as as saying always follow online size guides. I spent way too much time listening to reddit and riding tiny bikes. I was shocked when i got on a 56 and it felt normal and was actually more stable and comfortable.
Fantastic content in your channel. Definitely my favorite.
"Small people are not catered to by the bike industry" - same for big/wide people my friend. Same for wide feet people.
Lake and Bont are where wides are at
A few factors: there are significant differences between markets such that German male heels tend to be different shape from UK male heels - which affects shoe design. Italian men are mostly much slimmer for a given height than most UK men and there are significantly different leg diameters. All this might not matter so much for normal looser fitting clothes but it can matter for sports gear. And the market for tight fitting bike clothes is not huge, even if it is a lot bigger than, eg, 25 years ago. Costs of making clothes with lots of cut and stitch lines are high. Perhaps the clothing companies should develop a sort of cartel whereby each selects a range of customer sizes and shapes they will focus on and market their stuff for precisely. It could mean that a large big fan of a skinny climber will not be able to get a duplicate kit. Quite likely, kit designed for professional and very elite amateurs will almost certainly never fit a normal person because those pros have unhealthy low levels of body fat, under developed arms and over developed legs.
The very rich amateur who can afford a £10k bike without resorting to their parents dying and leaving them a big inheritance can probably afford a custom made suite of clothes from a specialist manufacturer. The rest of us will always have to compromise.
So how to get more generic shaped clothes across a wider range of heights and weights? Be less focused on looking like a pro. Hope for and support companies that do make a wider, less specialized range and pay for that range (except folk in the centre of the bell curve will still do best). Check out good quality workwear from the likes of Englebert Strauss, Screwfix, Toolstation, etc. Bike clothing companies are not charities and not all are as big as Rapha to absorb massive annual losses in hope of a market turnaround
I have EU size 50 shoes, shimano makes some, but mostly it’s a struggle.
@@NinjaElephant Same same. Heck I'd go bigger if I could find a pair.
@@ariffauI wear a lake regular & wide with most other cycling shoes!
As a 71 yr old, 1.8 W/kg is a dream. I'll be ecstatic when I can average 1.2W/kg
That's solid at 71! Or 60 for that matter:)
You're still riding! That's the main point, I love riding with the older boys and listening to their stories. I've met some fascinating blokes out on the road and trails. Well done to you my friend keep at it as long as you can. 👍
“I’m 5 foot 10 - in the morning…” this had me howling… 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂😂
Add don’t buy a bike with an integrated stem…optimising front end position will be a painful expense.
This video is so HELPFUL i could CRY
Brilliant stuff. Regarding small riders, Sonder are good. Colibri is the only off-the-peg bike that fits me AND you can buy frame only & fit suitable cranks, bars etc.
same height and ride a 56 i find it perfect. i have thought of going to a 54. but feel like a 56 with 90mm stem fits me nicely. did find on a trek emonda with seat mask, i was on edge of lowest mast height. gone back to a bike with trad seat post so can get a better position
You're spot on about sizing guides. I've learned to completely ignore them. I usually start out by looking at the horizontal toptube length. From experience I know what works well with a typical 90-100mm stem. If I'm between sizes I'll more often than not size up as I hate feeling cramped on the bike. Also because I'm not a fan of having 4 miles of seatpost showing (sorry, I grew up in the steel frame/horizontal top tube era and long seatposts just look dorky).
Thx for this video! I’m buying a new bike and was on the cusp of their sizing. Will def be going down.
Love this kind of material, plus love the channel! My nr 1 harsh truth is that I got my first ever gravel bike a size too big. And now, it's reverse engineering for me - playing with saddles and stem and god knows what not, instead of admitting defeat and getting something more fitted to my body size.
I have heard several times that small sized Canyon bikes only comes with 650b wheels, and that is correct, but there is no problem replacing the wheels. I bought a Canyon Grizl 2xs with 650b 45mm wheels/tires to my wife, replaced them with 700c 32mm for road use. Not sure if it will work for all Canyon models, but no problems with Grizl.
I'm short , and I agree regarding Canyon and Pinarello. The current 2XS Ultimate SL models use 650B, but the SLX + CFR models use 700C. In addition, Specialized has Tarmac and Diverge in 44cm. Felt has several 43 cm and 45 cm road bikes. Both the Specialized and Felt are preferred by shorter women in my cycling club.
Good vid! Even a slow, casual commuter like me learned something (on a windy day, I'll be seeing if tight-fitting clothing can make it a bit easier. I have some but I normally wear baggier clothing to commute.)
yeah, 6'2" with braod shoulders, ride a "54cm" frame with 38cm bars (between tube centres, just measured), I did need to get a longer seat tube, worth it not to get smacked between the legs on rough ground when I've stalled and had to put both feet down... (it was a 58, my "real" size, for some reason I replaced the bike soon after)
Groupset, in the past I'd have said "105 out of my cold dead hands" but the 5800 still does a job on the "indoor" bike with the later 7000 (?) doing outdoor duties on some very mixed terrain, both now likely same or worse then "lesser" groupsets like Cues, etc.
Brilliant! I often get asked for advice by people who want to get into cycling. I will point them here 👍🏻
I'm into MTB, but I love your channel, as a lot of what you talk about applies to MTB as well!
Small and often cheep or even free changes can make a big difference to comfort, safety and confidence.
For MTB, and probably any bike, tires are the most important upgrade you can get imo. Forget the fancy forks, wireless groupsets and carbon stuff, at least as a beginner and if you don't have limitless money lol. You can get really decent tires for not much money.
Nice tires are the real game changer. Also tyre pressure, which is free lol. Even the nicest tires are like 60-80 EUR each. But there is no way you can upgrade anything on the bike for that cheap that would make that much difference!!! Comfort, safety, more grip, better braking, cornering, confidence, speed...
If you can't afford a bike fit, just play around with the settings one at a time... saddle hight and angle, position, stem spacers, handle bar position/angle. It takes some time to figure out what each change does, but you can get way more comfortable for free.
The correct saddle size is probably the biggest comfort thing, and padded shorts! My stock saddle was too narrow for my ass bones so I always got numb down there and it was extremely uncomfortable. You don't have to get a fancy saddle, just the correct size will do wonders.
If you have disk brakes, the cheapest way to upgrade the power is just getting bigger rotors and/or metallic brake pads. It's not cheap, but for sure cheaper than buying brand new brake sets.
I agree. I could only add to your last point "loosing a little bit of weight".
I'm glad for my 40 to 42 gearing on my gravel group set. Got me up the 1900 m to Edelweißspitze with its last part being a 15 % cobble stone road. Then again, one of the rides in my group didn't even switch to his smaller chain ring!!!
Thanks for the Jazzy tips Francis! 🤗🎺
Just ride 'cause it's fun and a great way to stay in shape. Bike style, cost, specs don't matter! Just ride! Thanks for the great video!
I can say the "You need more gear" is erally a game changer ! I came from a 2014 Sram Red 11s 50/34 + 11/32 and went to a 2023 Sram Rival 12s 48/36 + 10/36.
The 36/36 ratio is not wayyyy to different from the 34/32 but it still feels very very nice and enjoyable on a climb.
Great video! The whole idea is to have more people riding bikes and enjoying the experience! I'll follow some of your recommendations. Thanks!
Hello!! Have you done a video on the frame sizes that bike manufacturers calculators recommend based on a rider's height ? What you said from 4:05 onwards was just a revelation to me. I too am 178cm high, and have always felt that my 56 Specialized bike is too long, I ended up changing the stem from 110mm to 70mm! It feels a bit twitchy now but I find it a lot more comfortable. I always thought I should have bought the 54 frame instead, but listening to you saying you have always ridden bikes size Small or 51mm top tube... WHOA.... what a revelation... I wish I could try one on that size... just to see the difference... This could be a game changer !
This is all wrong…. The drop would be way way way too low. You would need 2 feet of spacers lol…. The calculators are correct
Agree with everything other than the group set upgrade. I went from SRAM apex mechanical to SRAM rival wireless and it’s proven to be a notable upgrade. Brakes are more reliable, the wireless shifting is super useful on those cold days when you lose feeling in your hands and the entire system has proven to be more reliable as the cables don’t stretch or get jammed as there are none.
I think it’s more a case of “it depends” when it comes to group set gains from upgrading.
Hate to break it to you, but that's just justifying the purchase. Now if you'd gone to Red, you may have something.
I've got a few mechanical Ultegra bikes, an Ultegra Di2 bike, a DA mechanical bike, a fixed gear, and a few classic bikes. Yeah, Di2 is nice, but definitely not 'needed.' Yeah, the Dura Ace is nice, but the Sachs New Success on my Paramount isn't too far off performance-wise ..and the Sachs is what? 30ish years older? The bike I ride most is mechanical Ultegra disc cause it has 32s on it and the roads around me aren't getting better with age
@ I’ve got ultegra mechanical and di2 too and you’re right, the difference between the two isn’t that big. However, the difference between sram apex mechanical and sram rival xlpr is massive. I still have the apex setup on another bike and I rode it yesterday. The difference is stark.
It makes less of a difference on road vs gravel too.
Nice seeing you tour with old-fashioned panniers.
Maybe a video re. how to deal with oversized bike? Sometimes damage has already been done and people wonder what’s the remediation when swapping to smaller bikes is not that easy?
I’ve got a Specialized Tarmac Sport size 44 and I am 1.50m. Love they do cater for small women. Love my 🚲. Got a bike fit before and it was the only option for me. Got. Bike fit once i’ve got it and have been very happy since. Got a Tri bike now and Canyon was the best option. But indeed very few options for small people.
Thanks for sharing your measurements Francis! The more I see other people’s heights/inseams the more I realize my next bike probably should be custom. I just wanna get more use out of my current rig while I improve. I’m on the tall end with 193+ cm height with 100cm inseam 😮
Dude actually the 56 cm recommended bike size from the Specialized website is not BS at all. I am also 1,78m tall and on a specialized bike, it is my perfect size!
I prefer my bikes on the small size. The first bike I bought in recent memory, twelve years ago, was a Small or Medium Small mountain bike. My road bike is a 56 cm frame; my shopping bike is a Medium, I'm 6'1", or 183 cm in new money. The seat post on the mountain bike was extended a cm past the limit; on the shopping bike its on the limit. I've not seen the limit marker on the road bike, its still well within the frame. They all feel fine to me, although the drop from the saddle to the handlebars makes the shopping bike and mountain bike tiresome on my shoulders on long rides. Luckily, I don't live far from the shops, or my office, and if I wanted to take the mountain bike off-road, the hill trails are closer still.
@@jonathanbouchard39specialized calculator told me 56. Got a sl8 in 56 and fits perfect. Front end is actually really low and if I got a 54 would be WAY too low.
Failed to consider age and flexibility. My consideration is stack first, then TT and finally reach .
True for small people and tall people like myself being 6'8. im on a 60cm Cannondale which is too small but it was the only thing I could buy that wasn't over 5k. I got a long stem and long cranks still way too crammed but hey no pain or injury from it for 3 years of riding so guess I just need to suffer through it be uncomfortable and be more aero.
I find that once the gear ratio goes below about 1:1 it becomes hard to balance the bike front - back under effort and avoid either spinning the back wheel, or having the front wheel rise up off the ground. But where those really low ratios help is on the commute / shopping, when you have a bit more weight in the panniers on the back wheel, and you really don't want to be putting in any effort anyway, just gently spinning slowly up the hill to the office.
Specialized have updated their sizing tool, i too was told i need a bike two sizes too large (56) but i went on there yesterday and now im back on a 52.
Huh, it has be on a 61cm now, but was 58cm last I checked (quite some time ago). Maybe it's a shin measurement, since I don't remember that when I was last looking. Looking at the geo, the 61 adds slightly more stack than reach, so I might be able to get along with that, but I doubt it.
Loved it Francis. Thanks
#2 - for frames it's not just smaller riders, it's those of us who sit outside the usual 'dimensions'.
I'm extra-long in the leg for my height, consequently hard to find a tall enough stack without going custom.
And shorter cranks aren't just for short people, I'm 1.9m and run 165mm cranks.
Exactly. I have the opposite problem, I have quite short legs for my height and very long arms. I need a smaller size to get the normal amount of seat post showing and low enough stack, but that one doesn't have enough reach. A bigger size has too much standover height and too much stack.
I have stubby legs for my height, It's REALLY hard to find a bike that fits without the top tube so high I can barely stand over the bike when stopped.
Your best video to date and they're all great.
When I moved from Peterborough (flat) to Bath (not flat at all) I initially struggled with my 1x 44 tooth crank and 10/40 cassette. Switching to a 38t chainring was inexpensive and put the joy back into riding.
I'm also 178cm with 86cm inseam, short torso, and 56 actually works a lot better for me due to higher stack height. The Canyon Aeroad in 56cm with its 90mm stem, 75mm handlebar reach and 0 offset seatpost is the best fitting bike I've ever ridden. When I ride my previous go-to 54s, the stack is too low and that is impossible to change unlike shortening stem, shorter handlebar reach and zero offset seatpost.
I second the note about groupsets, I run Claris(with a 105 crankset) even "high end" 8 speed chains are 1/4 the price of 11 speed, so I have a few waxed and ready to go, for less than 100 bucks. It saves a lot of work, my chain's always mint. And I keep up on group rides just fine.
I'm modding a Raleigh Twenty into a kind of folding MIni-Velo (because why not, seems like a laugh) and I was shocked how incredibly cheap anything sub 10 speed is. I couldn't get a single 105 Di2 shift lever USED for what I got the entire 8x2 drivetrain for, not even close.
From someone who works in the industry this is bloody brilliant.
Not that harsh, quite sensible really. Thank you Francis, I hope the algorithm is kind to you and you get to keep riding lots of fun bikes and telling us what you know.
Sadly they don't make bikes any more, but if you are checking the used market for smaller frames, check out Terry branded bikes. Keep in mind they use 650c wheels a lot of times which are different to the current 650b.
Your advice is spot on!
Totally agree on the bike size thing. I'm 6'2 and prefer to ride a 54 or 56cm frame. I'm supposed to be riding at least a 58cm and it made cycling a chore. Dropping down a size has made it much more enjoyable, and a lot more comfortable.
My partner is 5'2 and finding a bike to fit her is a nightmare. She's supposed to ride a 48cm, according to her bike brand Cannondale, but we've had to change loads of bits on it for her to be able to ride it for any sustained period of time.
Im 6foot 1inch 185cm but 90cm inseam and ride a 58cm, thinking of a 80mm stem but its marginal, 172,5mm crank
How? The drop would be way too low do you have 2 feet of spacers?
@@thepatternforms859 im guessin u mean the other guy but still so much today depends on geo and riding style. mine is a faran 58T and im more uprighty with a "low aerobar" if i need to be more aero, i very seldomly use the drops. thinking of cutting them off quite a bit. i love being in the hoods and the aerobar. mayn road bike racer guys i know ride 1 or even 2 sizes smaller than ud think. the angle of your shoulders changes
@@benjaminmirt5029 makes no sense. If a person is for example 5” 10 and suppose to be on a size 56 with a 31inch saddle height and they get onto a bike that is a 54 or 52 the saddle will be the same height but the bars will be WAY WAY WAY too low. Especially on a modern race bike that is usually already very low. For example on a sl8 size 56 I use all the available spacers and my back is still totally flat… no possible way to slam the stem bc my back would be slopped way down hill and knees hitting my chest…. So all this talk about people riding bikes that are one or two sizes too small makes no sense to me
@@thepatternforms859 first of all humans differ vastly in leg length to height ratio and arm length. again geos also differ tremendously. because humans differ so much fairlight has a T and R version to each size. e.g. the Strael 56R has the same stack as the sl8 but the Strael 56T has 35mm more stack, meaning if reach on a 58 would be too much and stack too high bc ur saddle would be uneccessarily low you can choose a 56T and the fit will be much better. furthermore imho companys like specialized do not leave enough steerer tube to offer customization. for all i care they might aswell come slammed with that tiny margin. im also not into extreme competetive cycling and believe that leaving more wiggle for when u get older or just cant sustain a riding position anymore is a good idea. slamming sounds cool as long as u dont have to get extenders or buy a new fork or bike bc ur back hurts. i rather not sound cool.
recommending bike sizes video would be awesome - and insightful
I be happy with my 3 speed bicycle s from the 50s & '60s. Great Britain 🇬🇧 made ( steel).
Your 7 revealed knowledge is awesome, because they are true 🎉
Hi guys !! Have you done the video where you ride bikes based on the different frame sizes recommended by the manufacturers on line calculators ?? I am VERY keen to see what you can conclude on this... Cheers !
I saw his information out there about Nutrition and now there’s kicking in and pushing key tones that the rest of us who are trying to get to a good level, but not professional level are getting confused. Myself, I’m now beginning to make my own gels, which is actually quite easy and fun. It helps me take more control what I’m putting in my body as well as no goo stains in my back bibs,
Brilliant video, particularly the part about gearing. What is the stigma surrounding larger cassettes on road bikes? 🤣🤣 I put a 11-40 on mine, front is 50-34. can go anywhere on it, did Great Dunn Fell with it and no, I would not have been able to do that without the big cassette. So what. Sue me lol. I was well chuffed. I live in a very hilly area, I'm fit as a lop and it's because I have much greater access to the climbs here. BTW, Di2 shifts great with that big cassette. No problem at all.
@Cade_Media difficulty to ride up hill is not “not enough gear”, it s not enough range. Otherwise, people will think they need to go for 12s from 11s for example which goes against previous comment about groupset upgrade.
Regarding size, i have the same issue (just 40mm shorter), a online retailer advised a 54/medium bike and i had to ride with 70mm stem which was ok but a short seatpost which was very rigid. Went for a kinesis frame (they advised a 52frame but, i modelled on a free cad software my bike vs the kinesis frame and found that a 50mm was a match. Result is perfect and confortable.
Absolutely spot on there old boy 👍🏻
Love this video, thanks! Especially don't take yourself ssi seriously - great advice!
Thank you so much great tips
Great insights, really interesting. But bar tape? Tubeless tyres? Are these really such great upgrades? How much room for quality-of-ride improvement do different bar tapes offer? And I've heard that tubeless can be a messy pain in the arse that is probably not worth bothering with if you're not racing or at least riding an awful lot.
This is excellent advice thanks!
Started getting out on my bike more over the summer and one of the guys on the group ride mentioned he wasn't surprised I am struggling on the climbs only having an 8 speed cassette.
I thought he was just being nice about dropping me.. turns out you just said the same thing!!
How many more videos can you crank out from the bush?
With regards to bike sizes, I've found that Salsa cycles are accurate in their frame sizing. 52 actually measure 52 on the top tube and it's the size I use from them wherein I would have been a 48-49 in other big brand bikes.
They don’t service tall orders withers lol. I had to drive 7 hours to find the lone 64cm Specialized Diverge on the East Coast USA. I’ve never seen another one in a shop and never in stock online
I really liked this video! I always enjoyed training more than racing. With apps like Strava, I can enjoy setting PRs and never have to compare myself to anyone but me. At 56-years of age, all I need is a bike that works and that fits. I liked your comment about Pogacar probably winning on the slowest bike. Ha Ha!
This is the first I've heard about sizing down the bike. I am shorter at 5'9" and have ridden a Medium 54 for 10 years without ever trying anything else. Now I am thinking I at least ought to try a small 52
Loved it! I want to buy a Canyon Aeroad, I am 1,78cm like you, and according to Canyon I'm between sizes S and M so i guess i should go for the S (I have a Cannondale SystemSix in size 54).
Spot on about bike brands not serving shorter riders, but this is a reflection of pervasive societal discrimination against shortness. As but one example, clothing manufacturers also do not serve short people well. There is widespread bigotry against short people. It is long past time for a civil rights movement for short people.
I definitely need to up the size of my cassette from the stock for climbs, always running out of gears and i'm in pretty decent shape
THANK YOU FOR POINTING THIS OUT FOR US SMALLER WOMEN!!!
122kg 6'2", 32" inseem. Big strong legs. Finding bib shorts or jersey's challenging.
The latter with the onset of the aerodynamic bolge. Madison brand over trousers do fit comfortably. More manufacturers should specify thigh diameter on the size chart.
Mostly riding a Marin headlands 2, carbon with a touch of carbon. Not seen any weight related bike issues, save from a recent free hub engagement issue on the smallest cog. Bike is set-up with GRX 810 running 44t 11/51T. Yepp garbaruk ospw cage to make the jump from 11/42t cassette.
40c tyres - 40psi with Vittoria inserts. Inserts make a big difference in that they dampen out what I would call the rocking house effect. Bit like driving the original 2 seat smart car.
Does atticus cater for riders at the edges of other company's size ranges?
the point on gearing is so true - I am a pretty fit rider and got the lowest shimano 105 - and I could go even lower
Really happy about your opinion on point 6. There is still to many bike shops that didn't come so far yet and are still stuck with old clichés.
I'm 1,81m and weigh 60kg...I love bike packing trips and some smaller climbs (max 1000m elevation per day). I went to my local bike shop with the idea of switching from Ultegra cranks 50/34 with a 11-32 cassette to GRX 46/30 cranks with a 11-34 cassette.
They looked at me and said, we can change your cassette but looking at your silhouette you shouldn't change your cranks. Just train a bit harder...
How do you get to be 60 kg and 181 cm? Sounds like Pogacar! Jealous! I'm 180 cm and my perfect BMI is 70 kg which feels great. Any lighter and I lose strength (but I want strength for running, swimming, and upper body muscle for heavy-duty DiY work. I'd like to fit shorter cranks (down from 172.5 to 165 mm as I agree with the theory and thoroughly enjoyed shorter cranks on my fixed gear track bike on which I could sustain speed and revs for 5 miles or more on flat roads while praying for an excuse to ease up!).
Mildly seriously, you might consider GCN videos about strength training. 46*11 is not a big gear if you want to ride fast on the level, on smooth tarmac, or with a following breeze. I've found putting on some strength has been hugely beneficial in many areas of activity vs the years I spent as light weight. That is not the same as 'train harder'. You might do less 'training' and train less hard but make better use of the time doing it. Building upper body strength and stretching sinews with press-ups, hanging from a chinning bar (no need to do pull-ups - I can't do them), and swinging kettle weights all contribute to being able to hold position on a bike for longer, look back more easily, do DiY work overhead for more than a few minutes at age 65+ when you couldn't manage it in the 50 years before.
4:05 mark, online bike (size) calculators are mostly wrong.. that goes with pressure as well! i used silca to advise me on tire pressure. Got 2x punctures in < 1mth of owning my brand new bike!
On the bike size issue: I agree, get a fit first if you can, but results may vary. I'm a fraction taller than Francis (179 cm) and ride 55/56 cm frames, comfortably. No weird stem lengths etc.
Thanks for this deeply profound but sorely absent common sense. I used to tell people three things about bikes. It doesn’t matter (above a point) how much you spend on a bike, you still have to pedal it, you still get wet when it rains, and don’t buy shit sooo $$$ that you can’t replace it if you crash.
Fantastic video, thanks!
Great tips as ever
Nice Video - regaring the bike industry not serving small riders: I think it is not just "small", but simply "atypical". I am 190 cm, with very long legs, and short arms, so a regular XL has a far too long reach for me. Again, Canyon (like with their smart decision to use 650 wheels on their small frames) did help me with going for an Endurace frame...
Regarding group sets - in the beginning, they are all same. But there are more still excellent shifting Dura Ace derailleurs than 105er. I stick with Ultegra or Dura Ace...
Great video....great advice👍🙂