Exactly! Leaks because of those rubber seal rings. There is nothing wrong with mopar housing except it's made from plastic, if I knew, I would replace just seal rings, but since I bought Dorman part and it's aluminum, decided to use it.
Was planning on leaving a glowing review about how f-ing great this video is and how amazing helpful it was but I really don't have the time. Need to get back to work. The old lady wants her van up and running and it's in pieces in the driveway and the neighbors are starting to complain. Thanks Kip.
Thanks, Kip, for another great video!!! I never thought about using underbed storage for coolant collection, what a great idea. On my 2017, since I had to take mine apart a couple of times, once for ignition coils and once for injectors; I figured out how to remove the "oval cabin intake" in under 5 minutes, without having to mess with the plastic cowl below the windshield. it does require a couple of special wrenches and a small pry tool, but it works. With the cabin intake off, this job is so much easier. btw, I love how they redesigned the upper intake on the 2023, it really solves the rust issue with the bolts. Thanks again for providing the best van porn!!!
Hey I just took the Alternator off a 2015 ram promaster 1500, took me about 2 hours because I like to take my time. Tomorrow a friend ir coming to put a use one we got from the junk yard. I couldn't done it without your video. Thanks alot 👍🏼
Just wanted to say thank you. Took 4 months of driving to my gf's house where my 2500 was slowly leaking its slick black lifeblood into the street. After doing all of your steps about 3 times due to me cracking the lower manifold (cheap torque wrench) and improperly installing injector o-rings on its replacement, I was ultimately able to solve this for roughly $250 instead of ten times that. And now I can do all of this in my sleep. Feels good to know how the the ins and outs of my engine! Cheers and thanks for the laughs
The first time I did this job in my driveway early March in Michigan! That little triangular bracket and myself established a totally new form of profanity with one and other ? The 28 degree temperature in the driveway was kind of nice though it kept the bleeding to a minimum 🙂 my wife’s turkey Bastet worked fabulous for getting all the oil out of the valley under lower intake 😂 Kip your videos are the best btw
Love your videos kip! Wish your shop was closer to Derry NH. Would love to see a video on what you think of the Baxter spin on oil filter adapter. Thank you for ever you do. God bless brother!
I'm sure it's a good product, but I don't think it's necessary. The tick problem is NOT caused by oil, and otherwise these engines suffer from virtually zero problems related to oil. Thus, pre-oiling seems unnecessary. But if you really want to, rather than buy something and introduce a new leak point, use Flood Clear Mode which is aleady built into the van. Hold the pedal to the floor when you crank it after it's been sitting. The engine will crank but not start, and within a second it will have full oil pressure.
Just bought a '25 so I'm looking at vids like this to get an idea of what might be ahead in 100,000km or so. Like all FWD engines, this looks like a PITA to work on. Gives me a sore back just looking at the job being done. But you know, what price glory? Great vid.
@@Roadghost88 a 25 wont have any of the transmission problems of the earlier van. Nor will have the tick issue. But the oil cooler is the same so it prob have that around 130k or so. They are actually shockingly easy to work on, believe it or not.
Thanks Kip, I have a Chinese bootleg oil cooler from amazon on mine and now gonna lose sleep over it lol. So far so good as far as I know.. I had it put on when they replaced the engine earlier this year. Keep up the great work!!
Well that's a good point but also good to know on what to look out for with the cheap knockoffs. Ill shine a light in there periodically just to be sure of no seepage. @@promastersonly1419
31:07 yeah man we need the start to finish. As a vehicle owner but not a professional mechanic it’s a big problem when people assume I know something. Especially if you expect that I watch other pentastar videos like it’s my hobby.
This part is around $170 at a dealer. Had to replace this for our 2018 Chrysler Pacifica around 75K miles last year. Right now you can find the original even for less.
Hey Kip, Nice video! Plan to replace mine in 25k when I hit 100k and need to replace the spark plugs. Figure while I'm in there to just replace it. Its not leaking.....yet, but will so why not just replace it with the Dorman unit. I guess its best to buy it from?? Good idea to remove the coolant, instead of popping the lower hose off! Not sure why you did not remove the large intake horn. Its 4 bolts and you gain a ton of room to see everything.
I wanted to show it can be done without removing tge oval air intake. But take that out if you are doing plugs. Rock auto for the dorman, or autozone if you buy it local.
Yes and no. Around 2020, chrysler got sick of getting ripped off by their dealers for replacing perfectly fine coolers with bad seals. So they released a revised seal kit. It works better, but it's not perfect and not as good as the Dorman aluminum unit, best I can tell. But yeah - if you are doing the work yourself the better seals cost a whopping $10.
Took my dealer two attempts to realize this was the issue with my oil leak. The van only has 20k. They needed to remove the upper and lower manifold to replace this part. Is all this going impact the long-term health of the engine? Thanks!
Thanks for the video, i just finished replacing my old oil cooler to the aluminum oil cooler, my problem now is, the transmission is in limp mode, since it lost all the coolant, it doesn’t change gears, it stays in I think 1st gear. Any help will be appreciated
@@mendyyabra7294 if you have the red lightning bolt on the dash, it would be a problem with the oil temp sensor in the cooler that gets disturbed when you replace the cooler. But if not, its likely not directly related to the oil cooler swap. Happen to know the codes it’s throwing?
Nice vid man! I'm going to rewatch 3 more times before tackling this. Question? I went for an oil change at dealership. When I got in my van and started driving the engine light started flashing wildly. What did they do to my van? P0300.
@@winstonkunze8487 multi cyl misfire. Nothing about an oil change should induce that. Might be they knocked the crank position sensor, somehow? Unknown.
Thank you for the video! I had the assembly replaced to the aluminum one by a mechanic. I believe he used the Dorman one. But now all the oil has leaked out after 10 days only since replacement! Do you recommend getting another assembly and replace the whole thing, or another way of troubleshooting?
I can't say this is true in your case, but early on during the 'rona the Dorman was on perpetual backorder. You can buy a counterfeit Dorman on Amazon all day long for like 1/3rd the price. I bought 4, installed 2, and both leaked within a week requiring me to do the whole job again. I took the other two and threw them in the trash. I buy the Dorman from RockAuto or Autozone, knowing that those are genuine. Can't say that's what happened in your case, but if the guy paid less than $260 or bought it at a non-brick and mortar, that's likely what's happening.
Kip, I bought the replacement bolts but before I proceed with removing the old ones I wanted to check with you first. My concern is if the bolts break while attempting to remove them would that cause any harm to continue driving the van until I find a reliable mechanic that could do the drilling part you showed in your other video "How to remove rusty Promaster intake manifold bolt".
No. If the bolts break, nothing changes. It'll be a problem for the next time you need to get the manifold off, but it'll be fine until then. @@J.Radwan
Could you please tell me what is the cheap Chinese knock off failure points are vs the doorman unit ? The reason I ask is I have been able to buy two incredibly cheap. Both units are new. I have completely disassembled the unit to look for metal shavings, clogged coolant or oil passages,all looks good. What else to look for please. And I would like to know what to look for BEFORE I under take this task. Thanks !!
@@MrPaulis47 early on while the dorman was backordered, i bought 4 from amazon. Installed 4 in customer vans, and 2 leaked immediately. Unsure exactly where or how. If you are doing it youself, go ahead and try the knockoffs if you like. Just be prepared.
Hey I’ve your videos and have had my 3.6 ( in a Jeep) for 10 years. Had all the common failures and replaced with aftermarket parts Dorman oil cooler and melling rockers and lifters. My question is at what engine temperature does the Promaster van typically runs at? In jeeps they very between 204 - 230 during normal driving conditions. Thanks
That's right on the money. What they do is use the fan to regulate the temp, so once it's fully warm it will start at 204, go up to around 224 or thereabout, then run the fan for a bit, returning back to 204. The target temp is 208, but the cycle is wide. Anything above 232 is cause for concern (fans). The downside is the factory dash gauge generally wont move at all until you are close to 245!
Thanks Kip! Is there anything else preventitive wise I should do while I'm in there? I was going to replace the temp and oil pressure sensors Oil Filter Housing /Oil Cooler, sparkplugs, doorman thermostat housing. 70K on my 2019 and I'm going to Alaska.
That's basically everything. If you want to go ape, you can replace the PCV valve since it's cheap. You'll have decent access to it when the intake is off. If the two problematic bolts in the upper intake are rusty, you can replace just those two.
Use a needle nose pair of vice grips and pinch the coolant hose next to the heater assy before taking the unit loose and then taking the hose clamp loose. If ya do it in that order you won't loose hardly any coolant if the engine is cold with no pressure in the system. You'll only have to top off about a quart of coolant at the end. No need to drain the system unless ya want to flush the coolant. -guy that does about 4 3.6L oil cooler housings a week..
Thanks for the great videos sir. I'm having a coolant smell that I nor two dealers can't find. Do you think it could be coming from this unit. It never drips on the pavement or anywhere inside the engine bay and I never have had to add coolant. It's an 2018 with only 71k it's been doing this for a couple years now. Thanks for your thoughts if any.
There are several super common spots for coolant to leak. One is the coolant bottle - I figure they would have found that but I have videos on it. The "dick" or coolant crossover tube is another common one (also have video), as are the radiator side seams. Since it's minor and slow, you can choose to ignore it or go to Autozone and get a 1oz bottle of UV and find it with a blacklight. It basically CAN'T be the oil cooler itself, but it would be leaking a lot, and they almost never leak coolant - they leak oil and it will pooled in the V of the engine.
@@promastersonly1419 I have already did the dye, should have told you that. No sign of the glow worms!! It's still under warranty for a few more thousand miles. I have heard of people getting fed up with this and just putting stop leak in it.
@@mikedye5812 resist the temptation - stop leak rarely works, but it works very well to gum up your heater core! You know the expession “all up in my grille”. Now’s the time for you to do that to the van! See if you can get the blacklight to every part of the radiator side tank seams. Also look at the bottle cap itself - we’ve seen those leak. But if you cant find it, ignore it. Just check the level more often.
Hi, do you happen to have a video or anything showing how you get the rear triangular bracket back on the upper manifold? For the life of me I can’t get it back on. They don’t line up. I get it seated and then try rotating the bracket up and forward and the rear most slot is about 10mm too low. Not even close to fitting on. I actually had to bang it off when getting it off and just thought “that’s a problem for future martin” and here I am.
@@colwem possible you need to flip it over. Possible that little fork dohicky coming off the metal coolant tube is getting in your way. The only real way to do it is loosen or remove the 13mm bolt that hold the triangle bracket to the head, seat the two studs, then thread the bolt.
@@promastersonly1419 yeah I never actually removed the bracket. I just loosened the 13mm so that it can rotate backwards pivoting on the 13mm stud. The coolant tube bracket is indeed preventing me from removing the triangle bracket. The intake is definitely correctly seated. The triangle bracket simply can’t be rotated forward now. The holes don’t come close to lining up. I saw a TH-camr say they cut a slot in the bracket so they could get it back on. I might resort to that
@@promastersonly1419 before I go crazy on this…. How bad of an idea would it be to simply not slide the bracket back on? The thing has 9 other bolts and feels super solid as is.
@@colwem Not having the triangle bracket will do absolutely no harm at all. You are correct -there are two studs at the front, plus 7 bolts holding the manifold down, plus a big locating nub molded into the upper. The extra 2 on the triangle bracket wont really do a damn thing. I would never leave it off on a customer van, but I've left it off over hundreds of thousands of miles on my own vans with no issues.
Hi I have a question. I just replaced my oil filter housing and the oil pressure sensor on my 2019 Promaster 2500 van. It solved the leak, but now my low oil pressure light comes on only when I press the gas pedal. I check the oil level and it's fine I'm also getting mis fire codes. Do you have any suggestions. Thanks Dominick
That's a new one! If you have access to a high quality scanner, I would be looking at the actual oil pressure. It should be about 32psi at idle, and only go up from there. But I'm sure it's good, because you already would have blown up by now. I would then check the camshaft commanded position vs the actual position. There are data PIDs in the computer for this. It's possible that when your oil cooler was leaking it ran low enough on oil to do some damage, but I think that's a low probability because the engine will usually stop running/stall before any damage occurs. My guess is that the oil light is a false positive - when the engine stumbles, it slows down and the pressure reads as low. If it's a global misfire - a P0300 code, then I would look at all the wiring. If it's a single cylinder misfire code, I would think about moving that coil to the cyinder next to it and see if the code moves. But I can't think of anything that's a direct correlation between replacing the oil cooler and generating a misfire, other than the obvious vacume leak or unseated coil or injector connectors.
Thanks. My Dad and I are planning to do this on his 2016 with 165k. What all should we replace while we got this thing taken apart? I figured I'd grab a set of three ignition coils and spark plugs...anything else? He already replaced the front three and his engine ticks.
If the engine has the dreaded tick, much of the work in doing that job is shared with the oil cooler. To know for certain if you have the tick, cut open a well used oil filter and look for metal. Otherwise, I don't replace coils unless there's a need, but plugs were due at 100k and intake-off is the time to do them. Other than putting a new oil pressure sensor in the new oil cooler assembly, there really isn't anything to replace while you are there. The Dorman comes with upper and lower gaskets, so those will be new. Maybe the PCV valve is worth doing while you are there.
@@promastersonly1419 thanks for the response! Wasn't sure I was gonna get one. Doesn't the Dorman unit come with a new oil pressure sensor? Thanks in advance.
@@Caelinb62 No, though Dorman makes and sells the sensor. It’s a very common failure item, and will result in a P0520 code. Since you have to transfer your old one over when you install the new cooler, replace with new.
@@promastersonly1419 Hey man. We got our Promaster fixed back up. Started driving it around and it was puking engine oil...we got it taken apart again and are wondering what happened. The valley is full with oil again, tranny covered, and the intake runners are oily now after I cleaned them with WD40 and a rag. I'm thinking there is an issue with the seals? But also at a loss. Have you ever had this issue? Thanks in advance :) BTW, we went with the Dorman unit. There was a plug included in it that we never used because we screwed in a sensor instead.
@@Caelinb62 if the runners are oily it’s almost certainly the pcv valve. I would add new seals under the cooler, but the only other thing it could be is a valve cover gasket, which is unlikely. Honestly, I dont know what application would use those pipe plug fittings. Maybe some kind of future protected turbo? What did you put there?
@@jasonburlison8000 that code is for electrical to the sensor. Its the lower one in the back of the oil cooler, and if your hand is adept you may be able to unplug it without taking anything apart. Clean, trace wiring, etc.
My feeling is that it isnt really necessary. The upper intake is held onto the lower intake by the 7 funky bolts, and those get torqued to spec when it goes together. There's also 2 post bolts at the front, and the two post bolt that clamp it to the triangle bracket. Literally, even ONE of the post bolts is plenty to keep the intake from going anywhere, and the 7 others are doing the same job. I wouldn't worry about the triangle, and even if 400,000 miles from now somehow the intake cracked, you could get another one for $100. Not a big deal.
This just unfortunately happened to my 2020 with 280k miles original engine and trans, do I need to replace the whole housing or can I get away with just replacing the seal rings. I havnt taken anything apart yet since it just happened yesterday id love your opinion on this. Basically if theres no crack on the housing would I be ok with just replacing the seals so im not spending $300+ if I dont have to.
Sorry, missed this question. 95/100 times, its just the seals under the cooler that leak. Buy them from the dealer for like $15. But if you want to never do the job again, spring for the real deal Dorman (not from amazon). It comes with everything including upper and lower intake gaskets.
@@promastersonly1419 thanks for getting back to me. Ive already purchased the 959 doorman it should be arriving shortly, like you said might as well do it the right way and not worry about it again. Im on the west side of Michigan and now I just need to find someone who is willing to install it for me. One more question, I havnt touched the van since i found this out its just been sitting in my driveway, if i put in a new oil filter and add oil back in will it just leak all over the place again slowly or will it all just pour out instantly? Basically i just want to know that so once I do find someone to install will it be safe to drive it a short distance to the mechanics.. thanks again for all your videos I’ve been watching for the last 2 years since i started expediting luckily this happened on my last trip, if you want to buy this van or know anyone looking to buy one let me know 😅. Rockers and lifters replaced at 200k alternator replaced at 214k new spark plugs and tranny fluid replaced at 100k and 200k the van runs beautifully.
@@BigJay.90 nothing complicated about the job, and the dorman comes with all the gaskets too. Generally, they leak slow at first, and slow enough just to check the oil every fuel fillup and add as necessary. When they eventually start to really gush, the warn you as the pressure gets low before you get low enough to cause damage. Do you can keep driving it in the near term.
I don't. But I do know around 2020 mopar released a revised o-ring kit, replacing the o-rings that go underneath the cooler. For years dealerships and tech were replacing the whole cooler, but the problem is those o-rings, not the coolers rupturing internally or anything like that. Probably, the B revision just includes those newer seals. For my money, the Dorman is just better. Metal is better than plastic, and we have yet to have a Dorman fail (after 2 years of installing them). So I prefer the Dorman.
@@stonefpvthor no. The classic oil cooler issue is to be leaking oil onto the transmission. No issue with the coolant. Coolant loss/leaks are super common and chronic on the promaster. I have a video on how to use UV dye to find leaks. Cracked res bottle, radiator seams, coolant crossover tube, and hose clamps are the usual sources.
I wasnt able to find an email for my question so I thought I'd post it here. I'm trying to duplicate my fab key on my Promaster. I've taken it to several stores that duplicate fab keys but they can't seem to be able to do it. The dealers want $350 to duplicate. Is there a way around the dealers you know of? thanks for this channel!
It's a point of some mystery. Some locksmiths claim they can duplicate that key. Then they fail. Yet I've heard of others who are successful. Most locksmiths can duplicate the transmitter pretty easily and cheaply, but the metal key itself is what gives them problems. It sucks, but the can order you a key and fob off the VIN and program it, but yeah they hose you with the price.
Hard to say. The oiling system is very robust, and a startup noise could be almost anything. What you could try as a diagnostic is to use flood clear mode to crank the engine without starting it. From an overnight sit, Hold the brake, floor the gas 100% and then crank it - it will not start but it will make oil pressure. If the noise is gone when you do start it, you know it's oil related. If the noise is still there, you know it's not oil related.
Kip, I've been binge watching every video you have posted so far. Good stuff! I'm looking at a 2017 Promaster, high top, 136wb, gargo (no rear windows) 196K, new (200 miles) jasper engine(with paperwork) and supposedly a rebuilt tranny in the last 40K miles. Overall, body is in pretty good condition, pretty minor cosmetic issues. What would you consider a good price for such a specimen?
Prices are coming down from crazy highs. It's hard to say - the miles hurt it, the jasper and trans help it (still warranty likely) but the 136 hurts it. Such a van in 159" is worth $14 to $20k, depending. I'd guess that the miles will turn enough people off that you should expect to pay maybe $11-15?
Well, I did it. All those specs I listed above, plus brand new tires, full aluminum Ranger divider and shelving in the back....10,500 ~ Pretty happy about that, hopefully it lasts another 200K miles@@promastersonly1419
Yes you can. It will burn .6 gallons per hour in winter and .4 gph in summer. I think it's fine, so long as you aren't leaking coolant, meaning as long as you don't run out of coolant. It's opinion, but I do NOT think it causes any harm to the engine whatsoever.
I bought a new metal oil cooler on Amazon I put new heavy duty coils that I got off of Amazon, I picked up a new rubber hose that connects to the oil cooler that I bought from the dealership, new spark plugs and new manifold gaskets, you might want to buy new replacement bolts because water rest in some of the spots on top of the manifold,it wasn’t a big deal though.
Mine just started leaking oil & anti freeze..that quick the rockers started failing...2013 1500 promaster...60235.0 mi Out of warranty.. 😂 this sucks..
That's awfully "young" to have those problems. However, there is quasi good news - both those problems are the MAIN pentastar flaws - the oil cooler leaks and the rocker arms wearing. Solve those two problems, and you can pretty much forget about the engine till past 500k. And BOTH have upgrades/permanent fixes (the newer rocker arms and the Dorman cooler specificially). And BOTH jobs share some labor if you want to do them both at once! It makes sense to do so.
Why would you buy a van with a petrol engine in it,,And a 3 and a half litre at that,,,You would need a petrol station in the back to run it when it's full,,Not to mention the cost ,,,You won't find one van this size with a petrol engine in all of Europe,,,A 2.2 Diesel engine is all that you need for it ,Much cheaper to run and makes the same torque as a 3.5 petrol....
Fair, but there are other factors. Here, diesel is 25% more expensive that petrol, erasing any mpg savings. And the fuel itself is cheaper than Europe. Then again, we probably drive more miles than the average European. A passenger vehicle here is expected to go about 400,000 kilometers before it’s junk. For commercial vans, it’s more like 1 milliom kilometers. But that’s not important. What’s important is cost. The gasser is one of the most reliable, cheap to repair and maintain vehicles on the road. There was a diesel promaster sold here for a while, and it proved the LEAST reliable MOST expensive turds ever made.
Room is tight, and I suspect it has somthing to do with thermal. But many dudes have adapted covers from Minivans and Journeys to fit. Almost anything will work. @@robertparry3476
Ive seen a lot of posts from Travato owners that have water leak problems from the windshield cowling and have added tape on top of the trim and windshield at the bottom to keep water from leaking into engine compartment and onto the engine.
Exactly! Leaks because of those rubber seal rings. There is nothing wrong with mopar housing except it's made from plastic, if I knew, I would replace just seal rings, but since I bought Dorman part and it's aluminum, decided to use it.
😂 nothing wrong with it except everything about it.
Was planning on leaving a glowing review about how f-ing great this video is and how amazing helpful it was but I really don't have the time. Need to get back to work. The old lady wants her van up and running and it's in pieces in the driveway and the neighbors are starting to complain. Thanks Kip.
Get out there! It's still above freezing out - enjoy it while it lasts.
Wonderful vid, thank you for posting this and your hard work! You’re a true linguist. I was offended you dropped your socket in the coolant (lol)!😂
Thanks, Kip, for another great video!!! I never thought about using underbed storage for coolant collection, what a great idea. On my 2017, since I had to take mine apart a couple of times, once for ignition coils and once for injectors; I figured out how to remove the "oval cabin intake" in under 5 minutes, without having to mess with the plastic cowl below the windshield. it does require a couple of special wrenches and a small pry tool, but it works. With the cabin intake off, this job is so much easier. btw, I love how they redesigned the upper intake on the 2023, it really solves the rust issue with the bolts. Thanks again for providing the best van porn!!!
I have a video upcoming that shows the 2022-up intake. Easier.
Hey I just took the Alternator off a 2015 ram promaster 1500, took me about 2 hours because I like to take my time. Tomorrow a friend ir coming to put a use one we got from the junk yard. I couldn't done it without your video. Thanks alot 👍🏼
That's what I like to hear. Not all heros wear caps - some wear filthy black t-shirts and need to lose 50lbs.
@promastersonly1419 hey we just got it done today, you are the man, thanks for the video👍🏼
Thanks Kip, I own a 2019, 1500 low roof, 136, I love it! Your channel is top shelf!
Outstanding video. No oil leak yet. I've bookmarked the video. Thank you.
Thank you. I'm going to try to tackle this repair myself.
Just wanted to say thank you. Took 4 months of driving to my gf's house where my 2500 was slowly leaking its slick black lifeblood into the street. After doing all of your steps about 3 times due to me cracking the lower manifold (cheap torque wrench) and improperly installing injector o-rings on its replacement, I was ultimately able to solve this for roughly $250 instead of ten times that. And now I can do all of this in my sleep. Feels good to know how the the ins and outs of my engine! Cheers and thanks for the laughs
Once you do any job on this engine once, it's super easy. And you can start a side business called Pentastar Oil Coolers ONLY! Or maybe Dorman's R-Us.
Good job
just went through all of this - verbatim - last year on our 2018 at 130k. So glad to see this video! Appreciate you, Kip!
Thanks!
The first time I did this job in my driveway early March in Michigan! That little triangular bracket and myself established a totally new form of profanity with one and other ? The 28 degree temperature in the driveway was kind of nice though it kept the bleeding to a minimum 🙂 my wife’s turkey Bastet worked fabulous for getting all the oil out of the valley under lower intake 😂 Kip your videos are the best btw
I know intimately what busted knuckles feels like when they are frozen. The worst. I feels ya!
I had the same exact feeling when I did mine! It is currently not attached to anything.
That was pretty involved job.
I’ll have to get the TAMPAX, I don’t have any readily available !
😅
Thanks a lot !
👍🏼👊🏼💪🏼
What a pro and a master of the American language ‼️👍🏻
It’s really difficult to find those premaster videos on TH-cam. Bring it more. Thanks.
Great information videos you have 🖖. They really help get the job done. Thank you 🙌🙌🙌
Thanks so much I fixing my dodge Promaster the seen problem good bless 🙏🙏🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Love your videos kip! Wish your shop was closer to Derry NH. Would love to see a video on what you think of the Baxter spin on oil filter adapter. Thank you for ever you do. God bless brother!
I'm sure it's a good product, but I don't think it's necessary. The tick problem is NOT caused by oil, and otherwise these engines suffer from virtually zero problems related to oil. Thus, pre-oiling seems unnecessary. But if you really want to, rather than buy something and introduce a new leak point, use Flood Clear Mode which is aleady built into the van. Hold the pedal to the floor when you crank it after it's been sitting. The engine will crank but not start, and within a second it will have full oil pressure.
Your absolutely right. There literally is nothing better than stepping in coolant.
Just bought a '25 so I'm looking at vids like this to get an idea of what might be ahead in 100,000km or so. Like all FWD engines, this looks like a PITA to work on. Gives me a sore back just looking at the job being done. But you know, what price glory? Great vid.
@@Roadghost88 a 25 wont have any of the transmission problems of the earlier van. Nor will have the tick issue. But the oil cooler is the same so it prob have that around 130k or so.
They are actually shockingly easy to work on, believe it or not.
Great vid, and humorous. Thanks
I've had issues with cylinder 2 reading a code. Change spark plug coil injector. Issue is I'm having a low idle at stop and sometimes stalls
I would need to know the code.
Millennium Falcon maneuver (MFM) is SOP for many PM ops.
Is more familiarly called MF by line mechanics.
Cheers,
R.
Resist the temptation to type MFM into a porn search engine.
Thanks Kip, I have a Chinese bootleg oil cooler from amazon on mine and now gonna lose sleep over it lol. So far so good as far as I know.. I had it put on when they replaced the engine earlier this year. Keep up the great work!!
It would have leaked by now if it was going to. I think you’re in the clear.
Well that's a good point but also good to know on what to look out for with the cheap knockoffs. Ill shine a light in there periodically just to be sure of no seepage. @@promastersonly1419
Great video. Thanks Kip!
This was great Kip.
Thanks for the detailed how to video, helped a bunch!
I have more like this coming.
31:07 yeah man we need the start to finish. As a vehicle owner but not a professional mechanic it’s a big problem when people assume I know something. Especially if you expect that I watch other pentastar videos like it’s my hobby.
@@colwem Point taken. I need a camera with a head mount, and you can justifiably blame me for not having one by now.
I wish you when in my area to work on mine.
I put one in from amazon it did leak but it was the o ring that goes into the block.
That's where the factory one leaks - that's generally what fails is that big o-ring.
This part is around $170 at a dealer. Had to replace this for our 2018 Chrysler Pacifica around 75K miles last year. Right now you can find the original even for less.
Universal problem on all pentastars, sad to say.
Dude I loved the line ....I don't do cocane I just like how it smells 😂
A classic.
Hey Kip,
Nice video! Plan to replace mine in 25k when I hit 100k and need to replace the spark plugs. Figure while I'm in there to just replace it. Its not leaking.....yet, but will so why not just replace it with the Dorman unit. I guess its best to buy it from?? Good idea to remove the coolant, instead of popping the lower hose off!
Not sure why you did not remove the large intake horn. Its 4 bolts and you gain a ton of room to see everything.
I wanted to show it can be done without removing tge oval air intake. But take that out if you are doing plugs. Rock auto for the dorman, or autozone if you buy it local.
Kip delivers again!
Thank you , love the Channel.
@@MDounBally-pt8gz edjutainment!
From what you say it seems like high grade seals would be all you really need.
Yes and no. Around 2020, chrysler got sick of getting ripped off by their dealers for replacing perfectly fine coolers with bad seals. So they released a revised seal kit. It works better, but it's not perfect and not as good as the Dorman aluminum unit, best I can tell. But yeah - if you are doing the work yourself the better seals cost a whopping $10.
Took my dealer two attempts to realize this was the issue with my oil leak. The van only has 20k. They needed to remove the upper and lower manifold to replace this part. Is all this going impact the long-term health of the engine? Thanks!
Thanks for the video, i just finished replacing my old oil cooler to the aluminum oil cooler, my problem now is, the transmission is in limp mode, since it lost all the coolant, it doesn’t change gears, it stays in I think 1st gear. Any help will be appreciated
@@mendyyabra7294 if you have the red lightning bolt on the dash, it would be a problem with the oil temp sensor in the cooler that gets disturbed when you replace the cooler. But if not, its likely not directly related to the oil cooler swap. Happen to know the codes it’s throwing?
Nice vid man! I'm going to rewatch 3 more times before tackling this. Question? I went for an oil change at dealership. When I got in my van and started driving the engine light started flashing wildly. What did they do to my van? P0300.
@@winstonkunze8487 multi cyl misfire. Nothing about an oil change should induce that. Might be they knocked the crank position sensor, somehow? Unknown.
great demo!!!
Would you save a bunch of time swaping rocker arms and oil cooler at the same time vs paying 3h for one job and 8h for the other one?
great video , thanks
great video sir, got me ready to do mine, part # for the kit?, please
Dorman 926-959. Autozone or rockauto. Do NOT buy the counterfeits off Amazon. Tried it, 2 out of 4 of them leaked immediately.
Thank you Kip! PS... no vids are better than yours!
Thank you for the video! I had the assembly replaced to the aluminum one by a mechanic. I believe he used the Dorman one. But now all the oil has leaked out after 10 days only since replacement!
Do you recommend getting another assembly and replace the whole thing, or another way of troubleshooting?
I can't say this is true in your case, but early on during the 'rona the Dorman was on perpetual backorder. You can buy a counterfeit Dorman on Amazon all day long for like 1/3rd the price. I bought 4, installed 2, and both leaked within a week requiring me to do the whole job again. I took the other two and threw them in the trash. I buy the Dorman from RockAuto or Autozone, knowing that those are genuine. Can't say that's what happened in your case, but if the guy paid less than $260 or bought it at a non-brick and mortar, that's likely what's happening.
@promastersonly1419 thank you, appreciate the reply! I will get a replacement from AutoZone and follow your instructions to replace it!♥️😊
Another great video, thank u thank Kip. You mentioned replacing the front bolts in the intake well, what's the bolt size? thanks.
It's a proprietary bolt, only available from dealers. Get P/N 6512338AA and replace the two in the wells.
@@promastersonly1419 Thanks, since they're going into plastic should they be torqued to a specific setting or not?
Oh sure. There's a torque spec and a sequence. It's toward the end of my video, I believe. @@J.Radwan
Kip, I bought the replacement bolts but before I proceed with removing the old ones I wanted to check with you first. My concern is if the bolts break while attempting to remove them would that cause any harm to continue driving the van until I find a reliable mechanic that could do the drilling part you showed in your other video "How to remove rusty Promaster intake manifold bolt".
No. If the bolts break, nothing changes. It'll be a problem for the next time you need to get the manifold off, but it'll be fine until then.
@@J.Radwan
Could you please tell me what is the cheap Chinese knock off failure points are vs the doorman unit ? The reason I ask is I have been able to buy two incredibly cheap. Both units are new. I have completely disassembled the unit to look for metal shavings, clogged coolant or oil passages,all looks good. What else to look for please. And I would like to know what to look for BEFORE I under take this task. Thanks !!
@@MrPaulis47 early on while the dorman was backordered, i bought 4 from amazon. Installed 4 in customer vans, and 2 leaked immediately. Unsure exactly where or how. If you are doing it youself, go ahead and try the knockoffs if you like. Just be prepared.
Thanks for the reply !!@@promastersonly1419
Hey I’ve your videos and have had my 3.6 ( in a Jeep) for 10 years. Had all the common failures and replaced with aftermarket parts Dorman oil cooler and melling rockers and lifters. My question is at what engine temperature does the Promaster van typically runs at? In jeeps they very between 204 - 230 during normal driving conditions. Thanks
That's right on the money. What they do is use the fan to regulate the temp, so once it's fully warm it will start at 204, go up to around 224 or thereabout, then run the fan for a bit, returning back to 204. The target temp is 208, but the cycle is wide. Anything above 232 is cause for concern (fans). The downside is the factory dash gauge generally wont move at all until you are close to 245!
Thanks Kip! Is there anything else preventitive wise I should do while I'm in there? I was going to replace the temp and oil pressure sensors
Oil Filter Housing /Oil Cooler, sparkplugs, doorman thermostat housing. 70K on my 2019 and I'm going to Alaska.
That's basically everything. If you want to go ape, you can replace the PCV valve since it's cheap. You'll have decent access to it when the intake is off. If the two problematic bolts in the upper intake are rusty, you can replace just those two.
Can somebody post all of the torque settings needed to do this job, please?
Use a needle nose pair of vice grips and pinch the coolant hose next to the heater assy before taking the unit loose and then taking the hose clamp loose. If ya do it in that order you won't loose hardly any coolant if the engine is cold with no pressure in the system. You'll only have to top off about a quart of coolant at the end. No need to drain the system unless ya want to flush the coolant.
-guy that does about 4 3.6L oil cooler housings a week..
That's a hot tip. I have been just draining it from the bottom, but that defintely saves a step.
Thanks for the great videos sir. I'm having a coolant smell that I nor two dealers can't find. Do you think it could be coming from this unit. It never drips on the pavement or anywhere inside the engine bay and I never have had to add coolant. It's an 2018 with only 71k it's been doing this for a couple years now. Thanks for your thoughts if any.
There are several super common spots for coolant to leak. One is the coolant bottle - I figure they would have found that but I have videos on it. The "dick" or coolant crossover tube is another common one (also have video), as are the radiator side seams. Since it's minor and slow, you can choose to ignore it or go to Autozone and get a 1oz bottle of UV and find it with a blacklight. It basically CAN'T be the oil cooler itself, but it would be leaking a lot, and they almost never leak coolant - they leak oil and it will pooled in the V of the engine.
@@promastersonly1419 I have already did the dye, should have told you that. No sign of the glow worms!! It's still under warranty for a few more thousand miles. I have heard of people getting fed up with this and just putting stop leak in it.
@@mikedye5812 resist the temptation - stop leak rarely works, but it works very well to gum up your heater core!
You know the expession “all up in my grille”. Now’s the time for you to do that to the van! See if you can get the blacklight to every part of the radiator side tank seams. Also look at the bottle cap itself - we’ve seen those leak. But if you cant find it, ignore it. Just check the level more often.
Thanks for showing us Kip. But how do you remember where all the plugs plug in? Do they just line up ?
Hard to show, but it’s obvious when it goes back together. The wiring is shaped/formed such to make it foolproof.
Hi, do you happen to have a video or anything showing how you get the rear triangular bracket back on the upper manifold?
For the life of me I can’t get it back on. They don’t line up. I get it seated and then try rotating the bracket up and forward and the rear most slot is about 10mm too low. Not even close to fitting on. I actually had to bang it off when getting it off and just thought “that’s a problem for future martin” and here I am.
@@colwem possible you need to flip it over. Possible that little fork dohicky coming off the metal coolant tube is getting in your way. The only real way to do it is loosen or remove the 13mm bolt that hold the triangle bracket to the head, seat the two studs, then thread the bolt.
@@promastersonly1419 yeah I never actually removed the bracket. I just loosened the 13mm so that it can rotate backwards pivoting on the 13mm stud. The coolant tube bracket is indeed preventing me from removing the triangle bracket. The intake is definitely correctly seated. The triangle bracket simply can’t be rotated forward now. The holes don’t come close to lining up. I saw a TH-camr say they cut a slot in the bracket so they could get it back on. I might resort to that
@@promastersonly1419 before I go crazy on this…. How bad of an idea would it be to simply not slide the bracket back on? The thing has 9 other bolts and feels super solid as is.
@@colwem Not having the triangle bracket will do absolutely no harm at all. You are correct -there are two studs at the front, plus 7 bolts holding the manifold down, plus a big locating nub molded into the upper. The extra 2 on the triangle bracket wont really do a damn thing. I would never leave it off on a customer van, but I've left it off over hundreds of thousands of miles on my own vans with no issues.
Hearing diff things. Does the 2022 promaster have the upgraded oil cooler that can solve the oil leak in the future
@@daves9315 no change. Factory it has better o-rings, but they still fail. Dorman part fits 2011-current!
Hi
I have a question. I just replaced my oil filter housing and the oil pressure sensor on my 2019 Promaster 2500 van. It solved the leak, but now my low oil pressure light comes on only when I press the gas pedal. I check the oil level and it's fine I'm also getting mis fire codes. Do you have any suggestions.
Thanks
Dominick
That's a new one! If you have access to a high quality scanner, I would be looking at the actual oil pressure. It should be about 32psi at idle, and only go up from there. But I'm sure it's good, because you already would have blown up by now. I would then check the camshaft commanded position vs the actual position. There are data PIDs in the computer for this. It's possible that when your oil cooler was leaking it ran low enough on oil to do some damage, but I think that's a low probability because the engine will usually stop running/stall before any damage occurs. My guess is that the oil light is a false positive - when the engine stumbles, it slows down and the pressure reads as low. If it's a global misfire - a P0300 code, then I would look at all the wiring. If it's a single cylinder misfire code, I would think about moving that coil to the cyinder next to it and see if the code moves. But I can't think of anything that's a direct correlation between replacing the oil cooler and generating a misfire, other than the obvious vacume leak or unseated coil or injector connectors.
Thanks. My Dad and I are planning to do this on his 2016 with 165k. What all should we replace while we got this thing taken apart? I figured I'd grab a set of three ignition coils and spark plugs...anything else? He already replaced the front three and his engine ticks.
If the engine has the dreaded tick, much of the work in doing that job is shared with the oil cooler. To know for certain if you have the tick, cut open a well used oil filter and look for metal. Otherwise, I don't replace coils unless there's a need, but plugs were due at 100k and intake-off is the time to do them. Other than putting a new oil pressure sensor in the new oil cooler assembly, there really isn't anything to replace while you are there. The Dorman comes with upper and lower gaskets, so those will be new. Maybe the PCV valve is worth doing while you are there.
@@promastersonly1419 thanks for the response! Wasn't sure I was gonna get one. Doesn't the Dorman unit come with a new oil pressure sensor? Thanks in advance.
@@Caelinb62 No, though Dorman makes and sells the sensor. It’s a very common failure item, and will result in a P0520 code. Since you have to transfer your old one over when you install the new cooler, replace with new.
@@promastersonly1419 Hey man. We got our Promaster fixed back up. Started driving it around and it was puking engine oil...we got it taken apart again and are wondering what happened. The valley is full with oil again, tranny covered, and the intake runners are oily now after I cleaned them with WD40 and a rag. I'm thinking there is an issue with the seals? But also at a loss. Have you ever had this issue? Thanks in advance :)
BTW, we went with the Dorman unit. There was a plug included in it that we never used because we screwed in a sensor instead.
@@Caelinb62 if the runners are oily it’s almost certainly the pcv valve. I would add new seals under the cooler, but the only other thing it could be is a valve cover gasket, which is unlikely.
Honestly, I dont know what application would use those pipe plug fittings. Maybe some kind of future protected turbo? What did you put there?
I changed the unit and now I’m getting a P0521. What’s the difference between the PO520?
@@jasonburlison8000 that code is for electrical to the sensor. Its the lower one in the back of the oil cooler, and if your hand is adept you may be able to unplug it without taking anything apart. Clean, trace wiring, etc.
my van has the triangle bracket removed already.. should I buy a new one and put it on there?
My feeling is that it isnt really necessary. The upper intake is held onto the lower intake by the 7 funky bolts, and those get torqued to spec when it goes together. There's also 2 post bolts at the front, and the two post bolt that clamp it to the triangle bracket. Literally, even ONE of the post bolts is plenty to keep the intake from going anywhere, and the 7 others are doing the same job. I wouldn't worry about the triangle, and even if 400,000 miles from now somehow the intake cracked, you could get another one for $100. Not a big deal.
How do I know I'd I'm ordering the Chinese counterfeit dorman oil coolant assembly? Just don't buy from Amazon?
Unfortunately, yes. Buy local, or rock auto.
This just unfortunately happened to my 2020 with 280k miles original engine and trans, do I need to replace the whole housing or can I get away with just replacing the seal rings. I havnt taken anything apart yet since it just happened yesterday id love your opinion on this. Basically if theres no crack on the housing would I be ok with just replacing the seals so im not spending $300+ if I dont have to.
Sorry, missed this question. 95/100 times, its just the seals under the cooler that leak. Buy them from the dealer for like $15. But if you want to never do the job again, spring for the real deal Dorman (not from amazon). It comes with everything including upper and lower intake gaskets.
@@promastersonly1419 thanks for getting back to me. Ive already purchased the 959 doorman it should be arriving shortly, like you said might as well do it the right way and not worry about it again. Im on the west side of Michigan and now I just need to find someone who is willing to install it for me. One more question, I havnt touched the van since i found this out its just been sitting in my driveway, if i put in a new oil filter and add oil back in will it just leak all over the place again slowly or will it all just pour out instantly? Basically i just want to know that so once I do find someone to install will it be safe to drive it a short distance to the mechanics.. thanks again for all your videos I’ve been watching for the last 2 years since i started expediting luckily this happened on my last trip, if you want to buy this van or know anyone looking to buy one let me know 😅. Rockers and lifters replaced at 200k alternator replaced at 214k new spark plugs and tranny fluid replaced at 100k and 200k the van runs beautifully.
@@BigJay.90 nothing complicated about the job, and the dorman comes with all the gaskets too. Generally, they leak slow at first, and slow enough just to check the oil every fuel fillup and add as necessary. When they eventually start to really gush, the warn you as the pressure gets low before you get low enough to cause damage. Do you can keep driving it in the near term.
@@promastersonly1419 You da man, thank you.
Hey Kip.. do you know what was changed from mopar housing from AA to AB?
I don't. But I do know around 2020 mopar released a revised o-ring kit, replacing the o-rings that go underneath the cooler. For years dealerships and tech were replacing the whole cooler, but the problem is those o-rings, not the coolers rupturing internally or anything like that. Probably, the B revision just includes those newer seals. For my money, the Dorman is just better. Metal is better than plastic, and we have yet to have a Dorman fail (after 2 years of installing them). So I prefer the Dorman.
When this goes bad, is the collant always low
@@stonefpvthor no. The classic oil cooler issue is to be leaking oil onto the transmission. No issue with the coolant.
Coolant loss/leaks are super common and chronic on the promaster. I have a video on how to use UV dye to find leaks. Cracked res bottle, radiator seams, coolant crossover tube, and hose clamps are the usual sources.
I wasnt able to find an email for my question so I thought I'd post it here. I'm trying to duplicate my fab key on my Promaster. I've taken it to several stores that duplicate fab keys but they can't seem to be able to do it.
The dealers want $350 to duplicate. Is there a way around the dealers you know of?
thanks for this channel!
It's a point of some mystery. Some locksmiths claim they can duplicate that key. Then they fail. Yet I've heard of others who are successful. Most locksmiths can duplicate the transmitter pretty easily and cheaply, but the metal key itself is what gives them problems. It sucks, but the can order you a key and fob off the VIN and program it, but yeah they hose you with the price.
Hi Kip, my promaster suffers from top end engine noise during start-up (dry start?). Is there a way to reduce this? Is it oil filter related?
Hard to say. The oiling system is very robust, and a startup noise could be almost anything. What you could try as a diagnostic is to use flood clear mode to crank the engine without starting it. From an overnight sit, Hold the brake, floor the gas 100% and then crank it - it will not start but it will make oil pressure. If the noise is gone when you do start it, you know it's oil related. If the noise is still there, you know it's not oil related.
do you have a video on fixing cowl leak 2022
Not specifically, but the answer is gorilla tape.
Kip, I've been binge watching every video you have posted so far. Good stuff!
I'm looking at a 2017 Promaster, high top, 136wb, gargo (no rear windows) 196K, new (200 miles) jasper engine(with paperwork) and supposedly a rebuilt tranny in the last 40K miles. Overall, body is in pretty good condition, pretty minor cosmetic issues. What would you consider a good price for such a specimen?
Prices are coming down from crazy highs. It's hard to say - the miles hurt it, the jasper and trans help it (still warranty likely) but the 136 hurts it. Such a van in 159" is worth $14 to $20k, depending. I'd guess that the miles will turn enough people off that you should expect to pay maybe $11-15?
Well, I did it. All those specs I listed above, plus brand new tires, full aluminum Ranger divider and shelving in the back....10,500 ~ Pretty happy about that, hopefully it lasts another 200K miles@@promastersonly1419
@@JohnFoty excellent.
I had mine changed to a metal one
damn promasters, I thought I'am the only one have this leaks lol
Hey kip, a question off the subject of this video for a moment. Can you idle a ProMaster overnight when sleeping
Yes you can. It will burn .6 gallons per hour in winter and .4 gph in summer. I think it's fine, so long as you aren't leaking coolant, meaning as long as you don't run out of coolant. It's opinion, but I do NOT think it causes any harm to the engine whatsoever.
Shouldn’t coolant for promasters be pinkish in color ?
Factory stuff is pinkish red, but the color doesn't really matter and various OAT coolants are various colors.
@@promastersonly1419 got it, thank you for the respond
Won't Kip do it!?!?! Wont he do it! Thank you !
What model are those specialty pliers?
Amazon. Dont recall the actual model, sorry. Lots of stuff will work though.
@ I’m going to tackle on this task.
Entertainment at its finest
Edju-tainment!
So while your in is there anything else to remove to install spark plugs?
Thanks in advanced Joe
I bought a new metal oil cooler on Amazon I put new heavy duty coils that I got off of Amazon, I picked up a new rubber hose that connects to the oil cooler that I bought from the dealership, new spark plugs and new manifold gaskets, you might want to buy new replacement bolts because water rest in some of the spots on top of the manifold,it wasn’t a big deal though.
Might be good time to get a new coolent reservoir.
Getting the intake off is 80% of replacing the plugs. So yeah, a lot of “job overlap” and a perfect time to do the plugs.
@@promastersonly1419 ah there he is the legendary Kip Spielberg!
BTW you are the best. Ty
When the electric promaster comes out; this type of maintenance will eventually go away.
I drive an EV for EXACTLY that reason. All the other EV pluses are just gravy.
Mine just started leaking oil & anti freeze..that quick the rockers started failing...2013 1500 promaster...60235.0 mi
Out of warranty.. 😂
this sucks..
That's awfully "young" to have those problems. However, there is quasi good news - both those problems are the MAIN pentastar flaws - the oil cooler leaks and the rocker arms wearing. Solve those two problems, and you can pretty much forget about the engine till past 500k. And BOTH have upgrades/permanent fixes (the newer rocker arms and the Dorman cooler specificially). And BOTH jobs share some labor if you want to do them both at once! It makes sense to do so.
What is the total cost of replacing this part?
3 hrs labor plus about $350 in parts.
Thanks soooo much man....!!!
It's what I do.
Just is time
Why would you buy a van with a petrol engine in it,,And a 3 and a half litre at that,,,You would need a petrol station in the back to run it when it's full,,Not to mention the cost ,,,You won't find one van this size with a petrol engine in all of Europe,,,A 2.2 Diesel engine is all that you need for it ,Much cheaper to run and makes the same torque as a 3.5 petrol....
Fair, but there are other factors. Here, diesel is 25% more expensive that petrol, erasing any mpg savings. And the fuel itself is cheaper than Europe. Then again, we probably drive more miles than the average European. A passenger vehicle here is expected to go about 400,000 kilometers before it’s junk. For commercial vans, it’s more like 1 milliom kilometers.
But that’s not important. What’s important is cost. The gasser is one of the most reliable, cheap to repair and maintain vehicles on the road. There was a diesel promaster sold here for a while, and it proved the LEAST reliable MOST expensive turds ever made.
Isn't everything Dorman makes made in china? I think so.
A lot is, but a lot isnt.
I just drilled holes for those intake manifold bolts. I hope water drains through the hole and bolts will live longer)
Stupid engineering...
Not really. On every other application, there’s an engine cover which prevents this problem. Just not the promaster.
@@promastersonly1419so why isnt there an aftermarket cover that could go on the Promaster, perhaps not enough room?
Room is tight, and I suspect it has somthing to do with thermal. But many dudes have adapted covers from Minivans and Journeys to fit. Almost anything will work. @@robertparry3476
Ive seen a lot of posts from Travato owners that have water leak problems from the windshield cowling and have added tape on top of the trim and windshield at the bottom to keep water from leaking into engine compartment and onto the engine.
I have videos on that. It's a universal issue on the promaster. The fix is gorilla tape. @@robertparry3476