great video - thank you, Mr Kip! From my personal experience, removing the face is a lot less struggle while working on the top 2 alternator bolts. it was my first time and took me just under 2 hours to swap out alternators. I worked alone, but w/o the face, it'll be easier for someone to provide an assistance when installing alternator - I needed it as these 2 damn things kept falling out while i was trying to put the alternator back in its place
Thank you Kip for this great video. I always love your humor, helps the job go smooth, like having another brother sharing the pain as i get’er done. 😁✨
Thank you, Kip. The alternator change took me 4.5 hours. I wouldn't have even tried without the video. Thanks! I live in MN but am planning a trip to Barberton just to have you address some electrical problems and do some routine maintenance. I'll be sure to book an appointment!
WOW! How perfect is this timing?! I JUST, less than an hour ago, got the report back from the dealer that I need an alternator replaced on my 65,000 mile 2018 3.6 Premaster 2500. They're wanting $2,400 for the job.
We had our alternator replaced by the dealership in Laredo a year ago. It took them a week to determine the problem and then another 2 days to replace the alternator. They also put the van on a hoist without using the jack points and now we have 4 dents where they lifted the van. You would think a dealership knows what they are doing because they are supposed to know the vehicles but we know better now. They charged us close to $2000.
Thank you for this video. ALLDATA is down at my shop currently and I have to do one of these in the morning. Was hoping there was a way to finangle it out the bottom rather than removing the entire front end
Way easier from the bottom. The tricky part is those two long bolts that go into the top of the alternator to the block - they are long and blocked by the fan. The trick is to pull on through the fan blades, then pivot the thing so the other comes out. You'll get it, it aint rocket science.
I've found that when reinstalling them get that top bolt threaded. Get the right side bolt inserted. Pivot the alternator slightly to the right, then you'll be able to carefully move it into the spot and push it right on in. Then pivot back and thread them both in and boom. Deal with the shield however ya like lol
Did the removal yesterday this morning im tackling the install, got all my swear words ready and lined up for random use 😊 starting the timer Now!@promastersonly1419
@@toz1214 It's not so bad. The jigsaw puzzle part of it is installing the new alternator, whose long bolts crash into the fan. The trick is that one bolt will clear the fan and the other wont - install the alternator cockeyed with the bitchy bolt all the way in it, get that one started, then swing the alternator into line and start the other bolt. Once you're in there, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Sorry im late with this. I accidentally found a trick. Put in the bottom bolt, rotate tge alternater as far down off that bolt as you can then slide in the gaurd and 2 top bolts. Now rotate back up ,,boom tighten. Yeaaahhh. Happy ending . No clearance issues. Cheers mate 😊 @@promastersonly1419
I appreciate the humor. I'm still not looking forward to changing the alternator, but I'm running out of other things that could be sounding like a box of marbles.
Thanks Kip. This has become a major thorn in my side. The idler pulley was noisy, replaced that and the sound went away for 3 days. Came back, took the belt off again, no noise. Put on a short belt to bypass the a/c, noise was still there. Today it's silent again. I swear it's possessed. Alternator, water pump and power steering all feel good by hand. Tensioner pulley has a little play, but spins smooth. Upper idler pulley seems fine too. I'll take any advice you have on this.
@@SaltyKayakAdventures You've stumped me. There just isn't that much there to be bad. Power steering pump loose? Rubbing against a hose clamp tang? Influence of satan? I'm out of ideas.
Just replaced my alternator on 2016 with 76000 Purchased new on Amazon $250 The bolts are difficult to get to but yes you can do the job from under the vehicle . It took me 3 hours from star to finish with most of that time Getting up or down or getting the right type of wrench to get the 2 top bolts I was able to get the shield back on
Excellent F-bomb content this week, like watching the Big Lebowski! The plastic shield you mentioned at 4:10, is it a problem if it is missing? Mine is hanging by a thread and I just want to take it off, but I'm concerned it somehow does....something?
I’ve run without it for years. What it does could be done by a shaped piece of metal or tin foil or whatever. Assuming water isnt pouring onto you engine, I say dont worry about it.
The alternator cable is hot? Direct to battery? A couple small pieces of duct tape to hold upper 2 bolts? Would think it's the opportune time to change hoses, idler(s) and belt? So dismissive of 40A? My 74 MG Lucas alternator was a total of 45A from the factory. 😛 Swapped to 105A Delco CS130 👌 Thanks, Kip!
Correct - big wire direct to battery, via the starter in this case. Tape will work. I’m making it look harder than it really is. Replace nothing unless you have good reason to do so. Belts and hoses are very robust on this vehicle. Shocking that anything Lucas would need upgraded!
@@promastersonly1419wouldnt it just be the wire gauge with the battery? Just switching it out for the proper wire right? Just starting to dabble my feet into electrics so i'm not entirely sure.
@@Nodnarb69 In theory, yes it would only be the main output wire. But in practice? Unknown. What I do know is that it's relatively rare for an alternator to put out it's full rated voltage, in this case the stock 180 or 220 amps. Jumping to 400 amps? Unsure what issues might arise.
Hi. Maybe you can help: My 2022 ProMaster 2500, 159 wheelbase has a very small drainage on the battery. Nobody can find where the drainage is coming from. If the van sits for 2 weeks, it will need a jump. I replaced the battery with a new one - yet, still have the issue. Any thoughts?
Very tricky diagnosis. You have a parasitic draw, and it's most (judging from the rate) that something is keeping the computer awake. If it's still warranty, I'd go to the dealer. If not, it's going to take a pro to find that.
@@tommyg.9069 Refers to exactly what you have - a very slow drain on the battery that prevents it from starting if it sits long enough. The way a tech will find that is to let the computer go to sleep, and then start measuring amperage draws on each individual fuse. That will tell him what circuit the draw is on, and he will then start chasing to pinpoint it. Often, it's something like a door not closing, or something like that keeping the computer awake and drawing power. Any shop can handle finding it - nothing promaster specific about it.
Have you ever done a second alternator in a ProMaster? If so where does it fit? (for campervan conversion to charge lithium batteries) Word out there that when installed improperly the belt rubs and eventually tears leaving one stranded at the side of the road (or worse)
Early versions of the dual alternator setup were prone to chaffe a radiator hose, long since resolved. Dual alts are tricky because the one for a lithium setup is a 48v alternator, which is a $1000 thing that you wont be able to find in the field. But the system is pretty simple and robust.
Hey i have a 21 promaster that just kicks the tranny into neutral , you have to turn it off and let set for a couple of minutes. Restart it and it runs fine for awhile before it does it again. Throws a po562 low voltage. Any ideal where it might be the problem?
Hmm. Hard to say. I would imagine that the low voltage condition is limited to just the transmission, otherwise all kinds of other things wouldn't work. Search youtube for "motorcity mechanic 62te solenoid pack testing" and you'll find how to verify that the trans is getting full voltage. You'll probably have to check it while it's happening though. Best guess is there is a wiring issue at the transmission.
Good question. I'm assuming it wont work, since on the journeys and minivans there's a sort of extra bracket that isn't on the promaster. Assuming it physically fit and bolted up, the promaster has a special over-running pulley on the alternator, which is why belts last forever. Electrically, I honestly don't know what would happen, since the computer controls the charging and I feel like it would run an undersized alternator at full blast. Would that kill the alt? Unknown. You could certainly try it - I doubt it would hurt the van.
@@leblancexplores All I know I that one wire is a constant voltage, and the other is the field. Somehow, the computer compares the constant voltage to the alt output and that's how it knows how to regulate the field. There's a PID in the engine computer for voltage sense and system voltage, so that's where Alfa is getting that data.
Yea I’m geeking out on this a bit, my current theory is the ECU only supplies a suggested field current (pwm duty cycle) and the device with the brushes attached to the alternator can still control the ultimate output leeching off some of the suggested field output depending on the sense wire.
@@promastersonly1419 theres actually three voltage related values in Alfa and the duty cycle percentage. Voltage sense, battery voltage, and target battery voltage. There’s also a battery temp sensor that read 32C for me but unless it’s hiding glued to one of the wires or attached to the battery box I have no clue how/where this comes from.
I’d like to externally regulate this with my own controller is my goal if you’re curious. Tricking the ecu into triggering a certain duty cycle is a plan b. Charging lithium without a regulator that knows about the alt temp would definitely melt these diodes I’d think, idling I could go up to 150C and that’s about when I turned off the charging 😅💩🫠
great video - thank you, Mr Kip!
From my personal experience, removing the face is a lot less struggle while working on the top 2 alternator bolts. it was my first time and took me just under 2 hours to swap out alternators.
I worked alone, but w/o the face, it'll be easier for someone to provide an assistance when installing alternator - I needed it as these 2 damn things kept falling out while i was trying to put the alternator back in its place
@@alexanderkasyanov4946 both ways are acceptable. Good job!
Thank you Kip for this great video. I always love your humor, helps the job go smooth, like having another brother sharing the pain as i get’er done. 😁✨
@@DWIGHTSMITH i like that. “The brotherhood of pain.”
Thank you, Kip. The alternator change took me 4.5 hours. I wouldn't have even tried without the video. Thanks! I live in MN but am planning a trip to Barberton just to have you address some electrical problems and do some routine maintenance. I'll be sure to book an appointment!
@@krisbolle5128 promastersonly@gmail.com
Thanks for the thorough video Kip. Installation went great. And thanks to the person that suggested using tape to hold in the top bolts
I love a happy ending!
I appreciate the information & entertainment.
@@biznessmn76 edju-tainment!
WOW! How perfect is this timing?! I JUST, less than an hour ago, got the report back from the dealer that I need an alternator replaced on my 65,000 mile 2018 3.6 Premaster 2500. They're wanting $2,400 for the job.
Criminal. Truly criminal.
We had our alternator replaced by the dealership in Laredo a year ago. It took them a week to determine the problem and then another 2 days to replace the alternator. They also put the van on a hoist without using the jack points and now we have 4 dents where they lifted the van. You would think a dealership knows what they are doing because they are supposed to know the vehicles but we know better now. They charged us close to $2000.
I have a video on why dealers suck, which they do!
Thanks Kip! We appreciate you!
Nice. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. ALLDATA is down at my shop currently and I have to do one of these in the morning. Was hoping there was a way to finangle it out the bottom rather than removing the entire front end
Way easier from the bottom. The tricky part is those two long bolts that go into the top of the alternator to the block - they are long and blocked by the fan. The trick is to pull on through the fan blades, then pivot the thing so the other comes out. You'll get it, it aint rocket science.
I've found that when reinstalling them get that top bolt threaded. Get the right side bolt inserted. Pivot the alternator slightly to the right, then you'll be able to carefully move it into the spot and push it right on in. Then pivot back and thread them both in and boom. Deal with the shield however ya like lol
Agreed! It was hard to show that in the video, but yeah - start one with the alternator rotated, and the other can be finagled.
FFS!! I think you just foreshadowed my next job!!!! Dang it 😢
Oh well another mod with a great video to have at reference.
Cheers mate 😊
Seeing the future is one of my superpowers!
Did the removal yesterday this morning im tackling the install, got all my swear words ready and lined up for random use 😊 starting the timer Now!@promastersonly1419
@@toz1214 It's not so bad. The jigsaw puzzle part of it is installing the new alternator, whose long bolts crash into the fan. The trick is that one bolt will clear the fan and the other wont - install the alternator cockeyed with the bitchy bolt all the way in it, get that one started, then swing the alternator into line and start the other bolt. Once you're in there, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Sorry im late with this.
I accidentally found a trick.
Put in the bottom bolt, rotate tge alternater as far down off that bolt as you can then slide in the gaurd and 2 top bolts. Now rotate back up ,,boom tighten. Yeaaahhh. Happy ending . No clearance issues.
Cheers mate 😊 @@promastersonly1419
@@toz1214 I'm going to try that next time. I see the logic.
I appreciate the humor. I'm still not looking forward to changing the alternator, but I'm running out of other things that could be sounding like a box of marbles.
Have you seen my flexplate inspection video?
I haven't, but the noise goes away when I take the belt off so I'm really hoping it's an accessory.
@@SaltyKayakAdventures Has to be. I take it hand spinning the various pulleys doesn't reveal anything. My move at this point would be a stethescope.
Thanks Kip. This has become a major thorn in my side. The idler pulley was noisy, replaced that and the sound went away for 3 days. Came back, took the belt off again, no noise. Put on a short belt to bypass the a/c, noise was still there. Today it's silent again. I swear it's possessed. Alternator, water pump and power steering all feel good by hand. Tensioner pulley has a little play, but spins smooth. Upper idler pulley seems fine too. I'll take any advice you have on this.
@@SaltyKayakAdventures You've stumped me. There just isn't that much there to be bad. Power steering pump loose? Rubbing against a hose clamp tang? Influence of satan? I'm out of ideas.
these are pure entertainment thanks
Thanks. This one was weak on dick jokes, I think.
Just replaced my alternator on 2016 with 76000 Purchased new on Amazon $250 The bolts are difficult to get to but yes you can do the job from under the vehicle . It took me 3 hours from star to finish with most of that time Getting up or down or getting the right type of wrench to get the 2 top bolts I was able to get the shield back on
Dealer can charge close to $2000 for this job. So your story is my victory!
Excellent F-bomb content this week, like watching the Big Lebowski! The plastic shield you mentioned at 4:10, is it a problem if it is missing? Mine is hanging by a thread and I just want to take it off, but I'm concerned it somehow does....something?
I’ve run without it for years. What it does could be done by a shaped piece of metal or tin foil or whatever. Assuming water isnt pouring onto you engine, I say dont worry about it.
The alternator cable is hot? Direct to battery?
A couple small pieces of duct tape to hold upper 2 bolts?
Would think it's the opportune time to change hoses, idler(s) and belt?
So dismissive of 40A? My 74 MG Lucas alternator was a total of 45A from the factory. 😛 Swapped to 105A Delco CS130 👌
Thanks, Kip!
Correct - big wire direct to battery, via the starter in this case.
Tape will work. I’m making it look harder than it really is.
Replace nothing unless you have good reason to do so. Belts and hoses are very robust on this vehicle.
Shocking that anything Lucas would need upgraded!
Any thoughts on installing a high output alternator for people who have campervan builds? Looks like there’s some 400amp ones out there
Literally, no opinion. Sounds like doubling the amperage would cause issues with wire gauges and heat, but if it works it works.
@@promastersonly1419wouldnt it just be the wire gauge with the battery? Just switching it out for the proper wire right? Just starting to dabble my feet into electrics so i'm not entirely sure.
@@Nodnarb69 In theory, yes it would only be the main output wire. But in practice? Unknown. What I do know is that it's relatively rare for an alternator to put out it's full rated voltage, in this case the stock 180 or 220 amps. Jumping to 400 amps? Unsure what issues might arise.
Hi. Maybe you can help: My 2022 ProMaster 2500, 159 wheelbase has a very small drainage on the battery. Nobody can find where the drainage is coming from. If the van sits for 2 weeks, it will need a jump. I replaced the battery with a new one - yet, still have the issue. Any thoughts?
Very tricky diagnosis. You have a parasitic draw, and it's most (judging from the rate) that something is keeping the computer awake. If it's still warranty, I'd go to the dealer. If not, it's going to take a pro to find that.
@@promastersonly1419 ok, thank you. What is a " parasitic draw? "
@@tommyg.9069 Refers to exactly what you have - a very slow drain on the battery that prevents it from starting if it sits long enough. The way a tech will find that is to let the computer go to sleep, and then start measuring amperage draws on each individual fuse. That will tell him what circuit the draw is on, and he will then start chasing to pinpoint it. Often, it's something like a door not closing, or something like that keeping the computer awake and drawing power. Any shop can handle finding it - nothing promaster specific about it.
@@promastersonly1419 10-4
Have you ever done a second alternator in a ProMaster? If so where does it fit? (for campervan conversion to charge lithium batteries)
Word out there that when installed improperly the belt rubs and eventually tears leaving one stranded at the side of the road (or worse)
Early versions of the dual alternator setup were prone to chaffe a radiator hose, long since resolved.
Dual alts are tricky because the one for a lithium setup is a 48v alternator, which is a $1000 thing that you wont be able to find in the field. But the system is pretty simple and robust.
A company in Missouri called Nations Starter and Alternator makes the kit.
@@rtz549 correct. And the main company that does the lithium systems is Volta. Cool stuff.
Hey i have a 21 promaster that just kicks the tranny into neutral , you have to turn it off and let set for a couple of minutes. Restart it and it runs fine for awhile before it does it again. Throws a po562 low voltage. Any ideal where it might be the problem?
Hmm. Hard to say. I would imagine that the low voltage condition is limited to just the transmission, otherwise all kinds of other things wouldn't work. Search youtube for "motorcity mechanic 62te solenoid pack testing" and you'll find how to verify that the trans is getting full voltage. You'll probably have to check it while it's happening though. Best guess is there is a wiring issue at the transmission.
any issue with using an alternator from a Journey 3.6l? other than the amp rating
Good question. I'm assuming it wont work, since on the journeys and minivans there's a sort of extra bracket that isn't on the promaster. Assuming it physically fit and bolted up, the promaster has a special over-running pulley on the alternator, which is why belts last forever. Electrically, I honestly don't know what would happen, since the computer controls the charging and I feel like it would run an undersized alternator at full blast. Would that kill the alt? Unknown. You could certainly try it - I doubt it would hurt the van.
Any idea what the two wires are? They claim this thing is externally regulated but it’s not field and stator.
Interesting in AlfaOBD it has battery sense and duty cycle maybe field and battery voltage?
@@leblancexplores All I know I that one wire is a constant voltage, and the other is the field. Somehow, the computer compares the constant voltage to the alt output and that's how it knows how to regulate the field. There's a PID in the engine computer for voltage sense and system voltage, so that's where Alfa is getting that data.
Yea I’m geeking out on this a bit, my current theory is the ECU only supplies a suggested field current (pwm duty cycle) and the device with the brushes attached to the alternator can still control the ultimate output leeching off some of the suggested field output depending on the sense wire.
@@promastersonly1419 theres actually three voltage related values in Alfa and the duty cycle percentage. Voltage sense, battery voltage, and target battery voltage.
There’s also a battery temp sensor that read 32C for me but unless it’s hiding glued to one of the wires or attached to the battery box I have no clue how/where this comes from.
I’d like to externally regulate this with my own controller is my goal if you’re curious. Tricking the ecu into triggering a certain duty cycle is a plan b. Charging lithium without a regulator that knows about the alt temp would definitely melt these diodes I’d think, idling I could go up to 150C and that’s about when I turned off the charging 😅💩🫠
Can I replace my 150 AMP with a 220 AMP alternator?
yes
I think the 220 amp alt is important if you are charging your house batteries in your van conversion. Just sayin...
Could be. I would think any capacity alternator can handle any load, just taking longer to do it. But yeah, more is probably better.
It wont be free replacement you got to pay the price as used . Well way it was for me .
Absurdly expensive. Remember in the '90's getting one for $40.
Agreed. Exactly nothing different about modern alternators vs older ones except the price.
Hallelujah, now all I need is a video on the starter replacement, and I can rest in peace.😂
@@05fordvan It's only a matter of time.
Sorry 180 with the 200+alt
I spelled that out in the video. Yes, entirely interchangeable and cheaper.
This is actual Bull $hit.
I agree!