Ballistic Advantage Builder Series: Torque A Barrel Nut
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Today, join Clint as he properly torque's a standard and free float barrel nut.
Enjoy.
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About to kick off my first upper receiver build. I was always a little intimidated by installing a barrel but this series has really made feel confident about it. Thanks for posting these videos!
Still pretty new to the AR platform. Four small frame and one large assembled since 2014. Appreciate when companies take the time to do vid's that help not only customers, help other peeps too like myself. Thanks BA!
good tip regarding the right angle/90° offset of the torque device, thanks
Great video! Just picked up a BA 20" Bull barrel for my M5E1 build. I put it on last night and can't wait to take it out to the range for some break in
Thanks, Bill!
I think the most important part of getting a good torque on the barrel nut is first to apply grease or ant-seize. The important part is not how much but to push it into threads on both the receiver and the nut. Secondly, seasoning the threads by tightening and un-tightening a few times. Then...final torque. I think some get carried away with the whole torque wrench thing but each his own. You correctly covered it here...for a correct reading, you should be 90 degrees as shown and the torque you get to is only as accurate as the quality and calibration of wrench one has👍🏻
Torque is defined as a twisting force dependent on the distance..so when you add another inch by attaching the tool to the ratchet you're increasing the torque by quite a bit. It wont matter since most nuts give you a range but I always set the wrench a little lower than I really want it to make up for the extra 2 inches of length.
Great advice.
Great explanation! You took some short cuts which is great for the experienced assembler.. However maybe show sneaking up on the minimal torque value and "lapping in" the threads at the 1st setting and then increasing torque in 5 ft. lb. increments until aligned. Also you could have covered shimming the bbl. to align as well. Thank you!
I just build my Ar10 upper yesterday. Ba premium 18" gov barrel. It is beautiful. I used Aero upper and handguard. I build my ar15 with same components and used it as my duty rifle when i was LEO. It was much more accurate than issued rifles.
You can do it that way if you want to, but I torqued mine down the same way I did during the years I was a Small Arms Repairman (not just an armorer) in the army. Except now I actually have a torque wrench and don't have to guess at it. I bought a tube of Mil-Spec molybdenum disulfide grease to put on all the threads of the barrel and upper, plus a light coat around the barrel extension where it mates with the upper. If your rifle gets hot enough oil can burn right off, but moly will still be there. It's a metallic compound in the grease. It makes a difference if you ever want to change the barrel. I actually broke an upper and had to throw it away because someone didn't grease it properly when they put the barrel on. I used a cheater bar on the barrel wrench and put hundreds of pounds of torque on it, and it didn't do anything except bend the teeth on the barrel nut before the upper broke.
And I triple torqued my barrels too. The first time grinds into the anodizing on the upper and to a lesser degree the Parkerizing on the barrel nut. That starts to make them fit together right. When you torque it down the second time it usually goes farther, even though you applied the same amount of torque. That's why you shouldn't do it just once. The third time you torque it down you know it's good and will stay that way. You don't have to worry about the torque lessening if vibrations cause the anodizing to smooth out over time. Once it's torqued to the minimum, you need to tighten the nut as much as you need to to get the gas tube in, no matter what it takes. You should never have less than the minimum amount of torque. And the proper way to use the alignment tool is to put it in the bolt carrier key and slide the bolt carrier into the upper. If you have everything lined up right it will slide in and out when you tip the barrelled upper up and down.
But what do I know? Maybe your way is better. I only worked on military weapons 6 days a week for 4-5 years, inspecting and/or working on literally thousands of M16A1s, and got 100% on my SQT (Skill Qualification Test). I don't know anyone else who got 100% on their SQT, no matter what their job was. I was so good at it, people from other units wanted me to transfer over and work on their weapons.
100%.
One thing I like is the fact that when you torqued the the barrel nut, is you only clicked the wrench once. Not twice like some people do. This was something we had pounded in our head while in the service. If ya do twice you over torqued. Quality control would write ya up for more than once click. And never check the torque. If ya have to check it, loosen it then torque again. But the use of oil on the threads? And the with respect to the right angle? Bravo. There is a formula to figure out the torque if ya use the wrench at 0 or 180 degrees. But with that big of variance of torque it may not make a diff. Thanks great job.
you won't over-torque a barrel unless you go like 80ftlbs. it's fine.
Straight and 90 degrees give the same torque amount.
Just picked up a Ballistic Advantage barrel this past week. Nice high quality barrel!
Proper use of a torque wrench is to always do a minimum of 2 clicks! Always!
I just installed my BA barrel according to this procedure. If it won’t shoot groups, I’ll be sure to let y’all know!
one thing I have done is remove a little bit of the grease on the threads, usually it is just enough to get you that little bit to line up
Can someone explain what Clint means exactly at 3:02 when he says "Sometime you gotta back it out and spread the threads." I understand the idea of backing the barrel nut out and tightening it down a few times in order to 'season' the threads with anti-seize. But does doing this actually lengthen the distance between the threads in order to get the nut tighter?
Good tips and great barrels. If you work with the tools its a lot easier to go over a bit because you have that understand of what you can get away with the average person gets a bit scared and I can understand why. Thanks
Simple and to the point!
Great tips, but would certainly be helpful to reshoot the episode so we can see what is happening, instead of your back.
Awesome work and great video
Tighten and loosen until it fits or use barrel shims..No need to over torque or destroy things..
Have you tried grinding off the the log of the next notch on the nut ?
Great camera work buddy
Hello from Winter Garden
I know a general rule of thumb when torquing a bolt down is not to lubricate it because it changes the actual torque value. You end up getting more actual torque than is perceived on the wrench. How is this application different?
godofm3tal1 It’s probably not, which is why you have such a wide range of torque given by manufacturer. 90 degree, 180 degree, grease, no grease (not suggested) your still gonna fall in the given range.
@@Actuary1776 no grease is a bad idea so it "oil" use a hi temp axle grease with no graphite, or never sieze. Copper kite. Because the steel and aluminum threads marrying will chatter and bind up possibly before proper meshing of threads.
you definitely want to lube the threads. even on bolts
Thanks for educating people, that think they know shit.
The one thing this build series is missing is good camera work. No close-ups?
Damn, that’s nuts
You are very correct. If tou arectruly mechanically inclined you have a feel for it(and it actually helps if you have done it wrong in the past). Now you have a feel for what you are doing
Thank you siiirrr!!
could not see anything..maybe move camera so we see the nut area and nit your back?
If that was 50ftlbs... Then my barrel nut is probably on at about 70ftlbs or so lol I didn't have a torque wrench and a put a little push into it.... Good thing I covered with anti seize and have an aluminum barrel nut lol
Still a good tutorial video.
How are you supporting the upper receiver in the vice
If you were using the torque wrench straight out, would you be under or over torquing? Just curious....
You're not building a spacecraft the difference is negligible.
Dude, you run the risk of breaking a receiver lug if you torque that thing without proper support of the flat top. You can see the receiver flexing from those two lug points - no bueno.
If the builder uses a reaction rod this isn't even an issue. He wasn't, so good comment.
He's going by feel....he's got this under control....a novice may break something I'm sure
I'm only getting 0.406" groups with my best out of 5 lodgings 175gr smk varget 5 shot hand loads after seating the barrel four times, leaning on the wrench until it wouldn't move any more then smacking it with a 3lb rubber hammer and eventually just grinding the m5e1 barrel nut tooth to clear the gas block.... How can I get a RMA?
that's good groups!? Yeah, and don't do that.
My armorers wrench will not stay on the barrel nut haha this seems to be too complicated for me
What torque wrench/tools do you require?
What size is the crow foot ?
I can't see what you are doing
I wish I could hear what you’re saying.
do barrels come with a barrel nut? recommendations for a Ballistic advantage barrel marrying to a Gissele receiver?
No barrel's do not come with barrel nuts. Your handguard will come with one because they are all a little bit different depending on how your handguard mounts to the barrel nut. Make sure your handguard comes with one. I use Grendel Hunter hand guards. They are quality hand guards. Also Aero precision and Odin works make good guard's.
@@kansasgardener5844 I needed up getting a geissele Blem and yes it came with its own high quality barrel but. Ty for the reply. Im hoping my h3 buffer and spring works well with a SBA 3 brace. Not sure if any buffer tube will work out. I was looking at a buffer tube end plate with nice castle nut but not sure the cost is worth it. Obviously this will be my first complete build
@@cameronduvall3863 That's fantastic. If you haven't done so already you might watch this video series. It will help you get the most out of your gun.....
th-cam.com/video/pJL-IscH_jo/w-d-xo.html
WHAT THE HELL SIZE IS THE CROWS FOOT
What brand torque wrench is that?
chrismen1209 Kobalt from Lowes
Thanks
He didn't torque the standard barrel nut! What he did is aligned the gas tube port with the barrel nut. Torquing to a spec requires the use of a torque wrench set to a specific torque value!
No doubt you’ll hit 50 ft. Lbs. and there will be a gap between your upper and the handguard so the new rule is just tighten the hell out of it until it fits.
people seriously overthinking this. Torque it and go shoot!
Barrel nut torque affects accuracy. Barrel nut shims should be used to time your barrel nut. Heavy bull barrels should be torqued to 30 to 35 ft. lbs. Pencil barrels to 60ft. lbs.A medium profile barrel should have it barrel nut torque in the 50 to 55 ft.lbs range. -Joe Carlos
once the barrel and the receiver are mated, it is irrelevant.
Question barrel nuts different sizes between ar 15 and ar10? I am building and want to buy the right tools.