AR-15 Pistol/SBR Build - Barrel Installation
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.พ. 2014
- Everyone asks where I find AR-15 stuff in stock or where I order from, so here you are: bit.ly/2trc7Kg
I show how I install a barrel into an AR-15 upper receiver. Specifically, in this video, I am installing a barrel using the barrel nut for my Geissele Mk3 rail. This barrel nut is unique to this rail and requires no indexing for the gas tube.
Geissele Reaction Rod: geissele.com/reaction-rod.html
AreoShell 33MS Grease: store.reapertactical.com/catal...
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It’s been 100 years since this video, story goes this rifle is still greased.
It looks like when you bought an sks in the 70s full of cosmalean
Haha
I can’t stop laughing watching him grease everything
a tip : watch series at flixzone. Been using them for watching lots of of movies during the lockdown.
@Dakota Jad yup, I have been watching on Flixzone} for since november myself :)
As a shareholder for Aero shell . I appreciate this video and I wish everybody would use at least 1 10 oz tube per upper. Carry on and shoot straight.
The barrel would have gone in much more easily if he would have used some grease.
I agree
Or a thermal fit
🤣🤣🤣🤣
hahahahahah
I operate a grease factory, I would like to partner with you.
I have a fever! And the only prescription is more aeroshell!
Aeroshell is also good for your hair, and I even put a little bit in my coffee in the morning. Thanks for the video.
steve harvey Also for use as a skin lotion.
Also makes a great dessert topping.
Also makes great 🍆 lube
We should start a cookbook with aeroshell recipes.
from an engineer's stand point, the amount and type of grease are very important. but I'll mention only an example that correlates with a firearm system.In an AR15, the reason you should apply grease on the inside diameter of the end barrel and the upper receiver is to avoid corrosion from dissimilar metals, also known as cold welding. the barrel being any variant of steel and the upper being aluminum(same is true for the barrel nut and threads). A secondary benefit is the ease of removal later on how ever, now the type of grease will become relevant, you want a grease that holds its lubricity, consistency/viscosity and not cook or dry under the extreme temperature fluctuations the barrel creates at the lubricating point, you also do not want lubrication to liquify and enter the detonating chamber or run off along the barrel, and any internal excessive grease will also expand like any other material on earth when put under heat so having excessive grease will cause extreme pressures while it attempts to expand where it isn't supposed to which may cause deformation, cracks or an explosion.
Simply put, you only need a dab of your favorite anti-seize on the threads and a smear a small dab along the inside of the upper where you would slide the barrel in, you should feel it, not really see it. and as mention previously, lubrication on threads will greatly alter the required torque, in other words you applied more torque than your indicated 40FT lbs BUT its no where close to the top end limit of your torque window, which is around 90 ftlbs
id be surprised if u could reach 90ft/lbs at a 90 degree angle, at that point ur bending something
Yeah, what you said. 👍
I always wondered if the wet torque would cause problems over the dry torque, and shouldn't I refrain from using copper cote as the copper would react with aluminum?
@@davidcorkery2697 for everything on the AR15 go ahead and use dry torque. None of the threads have resistance (or called run-on torque) to them meaning the nut always threads all the way down by hand. That means no additives are required unless specifically mentioned by that part manufacturer
Cold welding only happens with identical metals. Dissimilar metals suffer from “galvanic” corrosion.
Always make sure any extension put on a torque wrench is 90 degrees out. 180 lengthens the applied force changing the torque value... there is an equation you can use to get the correct torque value but its just quicker to attach extensions at 90 degrees.
Probably the most complete install video I've seen. I use a tiny bit less Aeroshell on mine, but it is an identical process for the hundreds of builds I've done. None have ever given me any issues in thousands of rounds in most cases. I've had all of my BCM builds fit just like that and needing some heat gun use and rubber mallet tapping. Thank you for putting this video out since it indicates the exact right way to do this.
Ladies and gentlemen, ladies and gentlemen, thank you so much for visiting with us this evening. Now I've traveled across half our state to be here and to see about this land. Now I daresay some of you might have heard some of the more extravagant rumors about what my plans are, so I just thought you'd like to hear it from me. This is the face -- it's no great mystery.
I'm an grease man, ladies and gentlemen. I have numerous concerns spread across this state. I have many wells flowing at many thousand barrels per days. I like to think of myself as an grease man. And as an grease man I hope that you'll forgive just good old-fashioned plain speaking. Now this work that we do is very much a family enterprise. I -- I work side by side with my wonderful son H.W. I think one or two of you might have met him already. I encourage my men to bring their families as well. Of course it makes for an ever so much more rewarding life for them. Family means children; children means education. So wherever we set up camp, education is a necessity, and we're just so happy to take care of that. So let's build a wonderful school in Little Boston. These children are the future that we strive for and so they should have the very best of things.
Now something else, and please don't be insulted if I speak about this: bread. Let's talk about bread. Now to my mind, it's an abomination to consider that any man, woman, or child in this magnificent country of ours should have to look upon a loaf of bread as a luxury. We're going to dig water wells here. Water wells means irrigation; irrigation means cultivation. We're going to raise crops here where before it just simply was impossible. You're going to have more grain than you know what to do with. Bread will be coming right out of your ears, ma'am.
New roads, agriculture, employment, education, these are just a few of the things we can offer you, and I assure you ladies and gentlemen, that if we do find grease here, and I think there's a very good chance that we will, this community of yours will not only survive, it will flourish.
I'd be happy to answer any questions that you might have.
I drink your grease shake! I drink it all up!
@@victormartinez-diaz6127 im done now.
I know this video is 7 years old, but it’s awesome and helpful. After watching you apply the grease, I immediately bought 100,000 shares of Aeroshell. So as a stock holder I want to say thank you for your contributions. My only complaint is that I feel you should have used just slightly more grease. Also don’t forget to tell your friends and family! Dunking the entire upper and barrel may also help this process. This can also aid installation by dunking your hands up to your elbows in grease to achieve the desired effect.
We all know there’s no better feeling then lubing her up (the upper receiver) and sliding your rod (the barrel) right in.
sometimes I just watch this for the laughs
is it me, or is that WAYYYY too much grease???!!!!! holy moly!!!
A little or a lot. It doesn't matter as long as it's on there ;)
I always use blue loctite on the receiver extension and inside the receiver to bed the barrel with grease only on the threads and barrel nut, your fit seemed extremely tight so you should be fine but i would have still bedded the barrel with loctite.
Cody H - same way I do it. And you dont need some uber expensive grease for the threads either 🙄
I’m gonna buy stock in this grease....
it actually does if you actually shoot the gun and dont want a bunch of toxic gas released
NO 2. My truck holds 6 qts of oil but I could put 15 qts in it!!! You could do 20 rifle barrels with that amount of grease!!!!!
I just want to say thanks for this video, I have seen many videos on barrel installs and this has been the best one yet. This video helped me install my first barrel with the Aeroshell 33MS grease; barrel was a tight fit but with the grease it went in with ease. Had to torque the free float nut to 65 Pounds but at least i know it won't budge lol. thanks again
Jonathan Rodriguez You are very welcome :)
Does that upper come with grease fittings?....
You went a little crazy with the grease, lol. Just a dab on the threads will do. I shot my first barrel out back in 2018 and managed to get the barrel off really easily and all I did was used a dab of some random automotive grease I had in the garage back in 2011.
To expound on what torque is, T(torque, ft/lbs) = F(force applied, lbs) x D(distance, ft). If you have a 3 ft torque wrench (D = 3 ft) and apply 10 lbs of force (F) at the handle, you have a resultant of 30 ft/lbs. The (D) measurement is from the point of force application (the handle) to the axis of rotation (the centerline of the barrel). If you EXTEND the D measurement by using a tool whose geometry INCREASES the overall length of the moment arm (measurement D), say 2 inches, you now have a D measurement of 3.16 ft (3 ft - 2 in). 3.16 ft x 10 lbs force = 31.6 ft/lbs. IF the geometry of the tool allows you to rotate the tool 90 degrees relative to the torque wrench, the D measurement is restored (shortened) to the original 3 ft. Remember the D measurement is the distance from the point of force application to the axis of rotation. The bottom line is the geometry of the wrench. Obviously, an additional 1.6 ft/lbs isn't going to hurt anything. Most torque wrenches have +/- 5% error. 5% of 30 ft/lbs is 1.5 ft/lbs. However, if the geometry of the wrench increases the moment arm by 6 inches and you are approaching the max 80 ft/lbs, its time to rotate the wrench and make sure you don't exceed the max OR do the math and set your torque wrench to 22.8 ft/lbs.
Interestingly, my guess is large AR manufacturers (Colt, Armalite, Ruger etc.) probably install the barrel nut dry (I have never removed a barrel so I don't know for sure). Use of grease or other lubricant greatly decreases the coefficient of friction by design, and anyone who uses a lubricant is probably over-torquing the barrel nut :)
Dennis I’ve been doing some research, and apparently you can torque a barrel nut all the way up to around 120 ft/lbs without damage, and if you torque to 80 ft/lbs or even higher, apparently you can get slightly tighter groups out of the rifle because the barrel is more rigidly attached. Not sure how true this is, though, and I’m not really willing to ruin my new upper for science, lol
Considering the torque specs are based on using threads greased with 33MS, I don’t think it’s making anyone over torque anything.
Thank you
You sure seem to love that grease!
Which is why I use it.
the time lapse jump cut when he first starts greasing this cracks me up
Thank you for a great video. Just what I was looking for using different blocks for the upper receiver and barrel.
Easily my favorite channel on TH-cam, plz keep the videos coming
Haha, thanks! I have more coming, no worries :)
Like I mentioned at a few other places, using a reaction rod to install barrel nut may not be ideal because theoretically it might break the notch holding the barrel's index pin. Using a reaction rod would distribute all the pressure on barrel extension after locking in. So it works perfectly on any work done on the barrel, e.g. installing muzzle brake. But for any work done on the receiver (like installing barrel nut), you'll still need to clamp the receiver. Otherwise the receiver will try to rotate under torque which could potentially break the index pin notch.
Midwest Industries reaction rod has a sail to prevent the upper from rotating
So does the real avid one
I've helped lots of friends complete their ARs.. no need for all that grease- barrel nut and some torque is all that's required.
Appreciate the reaction rod introduction... I now have one on the way.
Brother, you need to keep your torque wrench and end adaptor (geissele wrench/crowfoot/extension/etc.) At 90 degrees. Anything other than 90 and you are applying a different torque than what you are setting your wrench to.
Great Gobs of Grease! Great video man
If you ever have a barrel that tight again, throw it in the freezer for a hour or so before fitting. It helps.
I've occationally seen a post here and there about the reaction rod breaking index pins on barrels. How did the reaction rod work for you and do you think people should be worried about it?
IF the barrel extension has a touch of play, what do you recommend in tightening it up? Ive heard of people shimming or loctiting or both.
love your channel but have a question so I'm doing a build and can't seem to pick between 3 barrels Rainier Arms, wilson combat, and Noveske what would you prefer? going with 18" barrel and sbr build. please anything would help thanks man appreciate it.
Is the tool for the barrel nut placed at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench or at a straight angle to get the right torque?
N00b here, thanks for the videos! I've built other (mechanical) things in the past, but never a fire arm. I think I will give it a go. These make it much easier!
im a little later to the party but great vid. a build done right! Ive been lapping my uppers (not needed for good parts but i just cancel all variables. I also do it by hand, no drill!)
Where can I buy a gallon of that aeroshell? I have three barrels to install this weekend.
I did put anti seize on my threads..but nowhere as much as you used.. I have not fired the weapon yet ..should I take it apart and ad more thread anti seize ?
I think I am going to get a rod like that for my upper build. Just more piece of mind when torquing the barrel nut. I really wanted to avoid specialized tools but this thing would be useful even if I don't use it much after the build. I'm pretty sure, however, I'll go with Brownell's version for the price.
FYI- the proper way to use the tq wrench is to have it 90 degrees to the barrel nut tool only then will it be a true tq measurement.
Gregg Sinini sure? Show me the video and I'll do it. You don't have to be a gunsmith to understand the basic fundamentals of applied toque. But my degree in mechanical engineering does help. Simply put it, when you add an extension or adaptor on a tq wrench, the applied tq at the end (where the barrel nut is) is different from the tq head. It's a complicated formula and can be found if you really want to look into it. However, if you put the tq wrench 90 degrees to the adaptor, the tq of the end (where the barrel nut is) will equal to the head of the tq wrench.
Typical ignorant internet comment.
Gregg, hes right. If you extend the torque wrench, its more leverage. The torque applied is different at the barrel nut vs the torque wrench...
Gregg Sinini he’s absolutely right. Torque wrenches are not only used in gunsmithing. To apply a correct torque value when using a second wrench is 90 degrees.
Ok, so first I am also a mechanical engineer. Yes, it is true that any extension type tool on a torque wrench should be in a 90 degree orientation to give a true reading. In this case it really doesn't matter though. The barrel nut spec is 30 - 80 ft lbs. Unless you're at the extreme edge of this range any induced error is inconsequential.
Suddenly everyone's a mechanical engineer.
Is that amount of grease necessary? I'm halfway through my build and only used small amounts of gun oil. I'm still early into the build so I can redo it easily.
maybe a dumb question, but doe the barrel nut come with the barrel, the hand guard or is it a separate purchase?
what lubrication can I use for the trigger and barrel your link doesn't work anymore
Whos upper receiver are you using? I cant find an upper receiver that fits tight.
I just got a BCM upper receiver and the barrel will not go in so I'm going to have to put some heat to it a little Lube probably not as much as you put in and get it in there Sam says you want those tight tolerances for accuracy.
K.y. jelly.....heat it up in the microwave....works like a wet dream
Good.... how about a little grease on the front flat of that barrel ring where the nut pushes hard on it?
Got a question for you regarding the grease amount, on my build i put about the same amount of aeroshell 33ms on my castle nut and receiver extension (which they changed the name to aeroshell 64, because people were getting confused, if u didnt already know) , and grease/lube has been creeping out from between it, not the grey good stuff, just a visible coating of oiliness, do you have that same thing happening around your barrel nut/barrel/upper receiver? im trying to find a good reason why i should stop huffing this stuff everytime i shoulder my rifle, im worried i might get addicted. Thanks. -D
A light coating on the threads is all this fool needed.
Can you tell me where you got that barrel nut wrench? Thank you
great video . just wondering for my build I used aeroshell but only torqued to 30 once and my wrench broke Chinese armours wrench lol should I be worried about anything or should that be alright for it not backing out
How did that hold up?😁
33MS! No way! haha, I've never seen this used outside of work. Good stuff :)
+vettelover2009 I do indeed.
We build landing gear for sikorsky, use Aeroshell 33, and many others
i notices my barrel wabbles a few mm back and forth after i installed my noveske free flouter any ready why any does this matter ?
Greaseaholic alert! This is what happens when your Dad doesn't teach you how to apply the proper amount of grease on threads. 😂
I always come back this video when I need to borrow some grease.
Would high temp lithium grease work on the threads? Wal-Mart has that stuff.
Yes. Aeroshell is basically a lithium moly grease. You just don't want anything with graphite as that might cause issues with galvanic corrosion. You can get big tubs of the Aeroshell on Amazon even for ~$10 last I checked. If you build a lot then it is a very minimal cost.
Is lapping the receiver and/or using loctite 609 really necessary? Under what circumstances of the barrel install would you recommend doing either of that?
Matthew Smith with a fit that tight, lock Tite is not needed, I use blue on typical barrels but it’s more called for on a loose fit, too loose I’d send either the receiver or the barrel back
9 years later, that gun is still oozing grease out of different orifices. 🤣
Thanks for the demo
Sure thing!
This event led to the great Aeroshell 33MS shortage of 2015… it was so catastrophic, they started calling it “Aeroshell 64”…
Lube will affect torque. You can overtorque things by using lube. Most manufacturers of free float handguards and subsequently their barrel nut require that you use no lube. YHM for instance requires both the nut and the receiver threads be cleaned and dried then torqued. Even in general mechanicing you will see warnings about lubing threads. Best to follow manufacturers recommendations. If they say lube the threads prior to torquing then do so. If not, do not.
Only man that has aeroshell as a scheduled reoccurring purchase.
Dude what's up with putting so much grease! A thin coat would have been perfect. Your not packing wheel bearings bro. Plus too much grease is not a good thing either.
Hey I have a question, since everyone is talking about grease.. did a lot of searching but cant find a definite answer. On my Ar builds I just used gunslick lube on the threads when installing the barrel nut, I am assuming its just like any other gun oil. I did order some aeroshell but I am wondering if I should take all my rifles apart and use it? Or will they be fine how they are? Is the only concern not being able to get the barrel but off, or will it do some other kind of damage?
Jonathan Smith You will be ok. The mil-spec grease helps to get the correct torque rating on the barrel nut. You can read more by looking up armorers manual ARMY TM 9-1005-319-23&P page 0015-14
how much torque is too much to take off an ar 15 barrel?
Great vid dude fr thanks alot
love the channel. anyway you could direct me to your pistol build parts list. I want to do a similar build like yours using 10.5 inch barrel and a free float m lok rail with a comp similar to yours..keeping it as short as I can and as clean looking.
My concern is the upper receiver cracking from the expansion and contraction of the barrel heating and cooling.
Nope not an issue. A lot of builders will place the barrel in the freezer for 6 hours so it will go in. I don't know how else to tell you that it's not that uncommon.
Aluminum expands at a greater rate than steel. As it heats up it is actually getting looser.
The aluminum is sandwiched in between the steel on the barrel extension and the steel of the barrel nut. The thermal expansion and contraction is accounted for in the specs so there is no issue here whatsoever.
Will red and tacky grease work too?
I appreciate you taking the time to do these videos. You have helped me a lot as I am doing my 1st build. Subscribed also 🖒
Enough grease to lube a moose!
Nate...would it be fine if I just used Aeroshell 33? I have a big tube of it and don't really think it's necessary to go buy 33ms unless the 33 isn't good enough.?
"AeroShell Grease 33MS (Grease 64) is an extreme pressure (EP) grease based on the proven lithium complex technology of AeroShell Grease 33, and is fortified with 5% Molybdenum Disulphide." I do not think AeroShell 33 has Moly in it which is what you need. You can pick up a small amount for pretty cheap from my buddy Devin at www.reapertactical.com - tell him I sent ya. Hope this helps!
nsz85 dang.. I figured it'd be fine. I have a huge tube of it already. I tried ordering 3 small caps from reapertactical but decided to use eBay, I wasn't going to pay $14 for shipping on $7 worth of grease...
What size driver do you need on your torque bar to fit Geissele's barrel nut tool?
Is it 3/4in or 1/2in?
I think I said it in the video but it's 1/2" :)
Must of missed that, thanx.
You're welcome
how has the Ranier barrel been?
I'd hate to be the one to swap that barrel in the future!!
+Keith Wooten Well, I would be the one swapping and it will certainly not be stuck or corroded.
It's okay, they found a treatment for greasy fingers, it's called soap.
Hair dryer or heat gun the thread portion of the receiver. The heat will expand it enough to slide the barrel extension into the receiver.
Holy sh1t... Are you repacking axle bearings???
I want to build my first AR and don't have any experience in gunsmithing so should I apply the barrel/barrel nut and gas block myself, or should I take it to a local gunsmith to have it installed?
+Kyle Foy Its easy! just need the tools. TH-cam has tons of building an AR15 to help you. Dont need to be a "gunsmith" to build one. get your parts and tools ready, start a video and build while watching it, pause and repeat when needed. You can build a rifle in a few hours.
+Lawrence Spies okay thanks for the help.
Hi nsz85, I really enjoyed your video. What is the length of the barrel you're working with? I'm thinking about building one with a 7.5 but I feel that maybe a bit short. Thanks
This is a 10.5" barrel.
How's the accuracy of the Rainier Arms barrel? I've heard they're pretty accurate and the fit is obviously good and tight.
Does anyone have any experience removing a barrel that has been bedded with Locktite 620? What do I need to use?
I agree with something being out of spec, that barrel extension should have slid on with little effort. You should NEVER have to pound a receiver onto the barrel, how will you ever get it back off? I bought a receiver honing bar a while back. It trues both the receiver well and the barrel nut threads and smooths out the extension hole, making everything concentric to the bore. I've seen videos of some threads off by up to 30°, canting the barrel. The hone will square up the threads and hone the receiver at the same time (a little goes a long way!). I like the Geissele barrel nut and action tool.
Man that thing is gonna smoke when hot. Maybe starts on fire? Depends on the grease. If that barrel does ever get hot, thermal expansion will put a lot of stress on the upper. Maybe causing a crack.
In my experience most barrels don’t have a barrel but that needs indexing. Thank god.
What brand of greace is it?
I can’t stop laughing damn that’s 15$ in lube now days
I hope to do my first AR build this summer. Do you have a video covering the basic tools needed and tools that would be nice to have? I would find a video like that invaluable.
If you look at my article series at The Arms Guide, I have everything covered as far as tools needed. Just search ar-15 at www.thearmsguide.com
I will look it when I get closer to building...
I am in MN as well. I am assuming you are as well judging by your username. Do you ever take passengers? :)
I hope to get my pilots license this year. I am in the process of launching a website related to aviation. I have a number of family members that are in the aviation industry. From mechanics to professional pilots. I am saving up for some camera equipment to do video of different aircraft starting this summer. Alot of the aircraft, that I will shoot, would be Antique and Warbird. I don't want to say too much because what I have planned is something unique. I am in Scott County. In the future when I get more organized maybe we could do a collaboration of some sort.
Sure! Keep in touch :)
GREAT VIDEO. I,m looking for tight upper receiver and since you have one, What upper receiver is that ? Thanks, John
www.megaarms.com
nsz85 thanks, John
@@JBud1911 jp also are tight
I'm glad its working fine but I'd still be concerned in the long run because I've never seen such a tight fit like that..there should never be a reason to have to hammer a new barrel into a new upper like that.
It happens all the time. What exactly would your concerns be?
A tight fit is always preferred over a loose fit.
5-10 seconds with a hair dryer/torch/heat gun etc on the front of the receiver and it will open right up so any barrel will slip right in.
Just make sure you align the index pin and slip the barrel all the way into the receiver before it cools.
Cooling the barrel won't really make much difference as the thermal expansion/contraction of steel is so much lower than aluminum.
"Super" Srvctek1 hahaha
Yeah, I use BCM uppers just because they are machined to a tighter tolerance and 9 out of 10 times need to heated to insert the barrel extension. It makes for a more accurate gun.
I have to heat most of my uppers because of the tight fit, I use a heat gun. I do not buy crap uppers or barrels that slop into place.
Love it awesome
Thanks👍😀
What do you think of barrel nut shims? Like the ones they sell on eBay? Gimmick?
Justin M No. I have used them and they work.
What is their true purpose? Would I be better using one on my build or passing on one?
Justin M You only need them if you require their use. They are used for proper timing of the barrel nut.
Justin M Do not use Barrel Shims. There is a correct way to do this type of thing and it's not here . Do your self a favor find someone who has been through the Colt Armorers School to help you out . Maybe even one of the local cops if you get along with them.
My Name Having reviewed the Geissele Mk3 rail install procedure I do not see an issue with this install. It appears he installed it correctly and per spec d3cfki0l5o2ps6.cloudfront.net/media/files/Installation_Instructions_SMR_MK3_Rev1_6.pdf
Should barrel nuts make contact with the upper receiver?
Yes.
Have you noticed any deformation of the upper index pin slot? All the torque goes on that little pin.
Shouldn't be, the should be a face in the nut that is capturing the barrel,
Yes but you are tightening to the upper. Which is free of the wrench and can move with the nut. Not saying it is a problem. I am just curious, before I invest in a reinvention of the wheel. lol
Aeroshell 64 is a replacement for the 33
I would heat the upper receiver it gets hot when you're shooting anyway let it cool down then apply Grease barrel nut I do however light coat of grease on
Barrel extension
Why do u need to grease the barrel ?
Brake clean the barrel extension and front of the reciever. Grease the threads and the front side of the flange near the barrel logo. That's all you need.
Why Aero shell and not any other type of grease?
Lol did you dip the upper into the container
I've seen people put a bs muzzle device on the threads to be able to tap barrel in without messing up threads or crown. Never done it but seems to be a good idea
this man built a grease gun
Can you please tell me if I'm allowed to build a pistol then file my paperwork as a sbr?
+nobryan0704 Check with your local ATF office.
+nobryan0704 Yes as long as your lower receiver was never a rifle. That is how most people build an SBR, build a pistol, then apply for SBR paperwork, then when you get the ok from the feds, then mount a stock on the receiver making it a SBR. Make sure you do not have a forward VERTICAL pistol grip on the handguard or any kind of stock on the buffer tube while its a "PISTOL"
+Lawrence Spies so essentially i could build an AR15 from standard parts and never put a stock on it and i would be fine with a sub 16 inch barrel?
+RevolutionV12 Yes, as long as the pistol has never been built as a "rifle" A sub 16" barrel without a stock(just a buffer extension tube) and without a vertical pistol grip is legal. You can use a sig pistol brace or the Shockwave pistol brace as long as you do not "shoulder" the weapon. Build the lower FIRST as a pistol BEFORE the upper...if you have other AR "Rifles" with stocks and you build a pistol upper first then you run the risk of owning an SBR rifle and that is a felony, jail time, money. fun stuff like that. Check the ATF website or local ATF office before you build a pistol, SBR, or AOW to make sure you have all the info you need to stay legal! Other option for sub 16" barrels is to PERMANENTLY (pin or weld) attach a muzzle device that makes the length of the barrel 16".
Thats probably a tad too much than what i would use. I ordered a tin of aero grease from classic firearms. Comes in like a large shoe polish can. Grease is needed if you ever want to change out a barrel. Otherwise it will be very very difficult if not impossible to remove it without causing damage.
The way you have the barrel wrench on the torque wrench actually means you are going over 40 foot lbs. A torque wrench is calibrated at the head/drive, by having the attachment straight out like you did you are actually increasing the lever causing it to torque over what you have it set at.
Correct. However, due to the fact that a barrel nut can be torqued to 80ft/lbs+ it was not a concern for me. YMMV.