Clint, your AP-parts and your tutorials are so top-notch and helpful. Since I watched this vid and was successful at "sticking" this, I've shown it to a couple of builder-buddies. They are impressed with the quality of your parts and product-line.
Spent an entire night doing this. The spring which popped out when changing the button stock. I popped it in and tried everything. When I finally had it in, I could not get the retainer pin free to out it back together.
Great job,I been watching since the beginning, I recently purchased a ballistic advantage lower receiver, right after that I found your channel ,I love the receiver,personally it's one of the top receivers. Thanks for the channel and the build!
A couple of additional tips: 1. If you are installing a receiver plate with a QD mount, double check that you don't put it in backward. The indented ring inside the hole needs to be toward the outside. 2. The full length takedown pin spring can often put too much pressure onto the detent and press it too hard into the groove of the takedown pin, making it very stiff and scratchy. You can cut 1/4 inch off the takedown pin spring and it will actually work better with the reduced compression. 3. Also, the detent pin head and takedown pin groove might need a light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper, and the groove should be greased, in order to reduce friction even more.
Take a 4-40 tap when tap hole for the rear take down pin spring hole. Take the spring using wire cutters cut about 1/8'' off spring. Then put in take down pin, detent, spring. Use a 4-40 -1/8 set grub screw and you'll never have to mess with the spring again.
I twisted my buffer til it was upright and covering the retainer pin properly but when I racked and did a dry fire the retainer pin popped out and into the barrel while the spring got mangled under the bolt. Any idea what it could've been? Too much of a twist or not enough? I was putting on a hellfire kit.. I appreciate any advice and thanks in advance
great video. I've got a question. when I want to disassemble the tube, would it be too difficult to remove the ring because of the punch you made? thanks.
Place your castle nut wrench on the castle nut securely and give it a good crank. It will come off. School of the American Rifle has a how-to video on this.
Clint, so I recently built an ar for the first time. I am having an issue. When a round is in the chamber, my CH is really hard to pull back in order to make my rifle safe and unload that round. At first I thought I had an issue with my extractor, I changed it and put a new one in. I shot couple mags with no issues and it cycles just fine. For some reason I cannot rack that charge handle. Any ideas what it could be? It almost feels like it is catching on something. It only does this when a round is in the chamber.
I did exactly this method and staked it in one position. The manual says the torque spec is 38-40ft/lb Mine is probably around 25ft/lb and feels sturdy. Is 38-40 really required for maximum reliability? I just can't imagine it coming loose, especially staked, even under very hard use. Your thoughts? I imagine it's one of those things people overthink about. I guess myself included lol
I've built two rifles and never torqued to disc or staked the cage nut. Get out hand tight then wrench it snug and it'll be fine. If you need reassurance use a silver sharpie and make a coke indexing marks. If it moves then re- tighten and stake if you want to. I saw another comment that suggested loc tite.
I’ve done this recently and it works great. But it took so many tries to get the buffer tube perfectly aligned. What is the trick to get it aligned? I don’t understand why after so many tries I randomly ended up having the buffer tube completely positioned correctly.
@@radjamss6390 there’s a certain distance that the buffer tube is supposed to travel. If you make it travel too far then the detect thing, that is holding in the buffer spring, will now be underneath the buffer tube. Everything is pretty easy to lineup yes. But I guess PSA has a hard time with buffer Springs and buffer tubes sometimes because it was like freaking 3 of them.
I ran into this issue. The buffer tube did not stay clocked when tightening and it shifted. Did not even get to torque the castle nut and the threads got damaged. It has a groove in the threads that align with the end plate, but didn’t stay in place.
Yes it is. It keeps the takedown pin in place. The takedown pin will walk out while firing and if it comes out then you will experience a catastrophic failure and possibly damage your lower.
Ok hiw many springs did yiu lose before this lol. Seems like the detent spring is so long . I always use a razor blade to hild it down. Nice video thak you
Sure would have been nice if you’d have addressed the actual buffer and spring. It’s my first time working on an AR, and this was worse than unhelpful. It set me back quite a little while. Being completely uneducated in putting one of these together, I followed your instructions precisely, and was left with the buffer and spring on my bench.
Its 1242 midnight and I am watching this video after ordering replacement parts because not only did I lose one of thr springs, but I sheared the buffer retaining pins when I "installed a folding adapter
I suggest turning buffer tube to the right side a bit then iserting the latch pin spring, return to position and usin a sma.ll screwdriver to ailing with latch plate and push in then tighten castle nut
What the fuck? How did you get that asshole spring to go in the fucking hole? I have lost 3 trying to fix this piece of shit, and waisted 20$ ordering new springs. They go in so far, get kinked, then when I touch them, they fly off to another fucking dimension somewhere. Fuck my life, is all I can say. I swear, if I didn't like it so much, I would throw this fucking gun over the fucking mountain.
Staking is a feel good for people who don't know about proper thread stretch. Watch a video on an engine build. They will torque the connecting rods bolts to, let's say, 60 foot pounds. Then they will check bolt stretch with a gauge. If, let's say, .006 is not achieved, they will add torque until it is. That ensures proper tension on the threads to keep the nut from backing off. And they NEVER stake the nuts. Torque value is also not the end all. Staking the BCG gas tube screws is a good idea. You might not get the torque for proper thread tension on the screws with the small bit you have to use. The bit would break first. That's where staking helps.
Thank you! I had to cut down the replacement spring so it could fit under the latch plate. Snug and tight now. Great help!
Best assembly video I have seen. If I would have watched this instead of another one, I would have had a lot less cursing and frustration. Thank you!
Wow, straight up, direct and to the point. I wish I would have watched this a while back, I could have saved lots of time! 🤣
Clint, your AP-parts and your tutorials are so top-notch and helpful. Since I watched this vid and was successful at "sticking" this, I've shown it to a couple of builder-buddies. They are impressed with the quality of your parts and product-line.
Super clear video, came here after I sent my buffer pin and spring flying...
I bought a BA 9" 300BLK barrel this summer for my AR pistol. Couldn't be happier with it! (It's the only part of my gun that doesn't break lol!)
Thanks for taking the time to review the rear takedown pin and how the small spring interacts with the retainer spring. Great video.
Spent an entire night doing this. The spring which popped out when changing the button stock. I popped it in and tried everything. When I finally had it in, I could not get the retainer pin free to out it back together.
Thank you for this video. I could not have gotten this done without your help!!!
It can’t be any more clear than this. Great video man.
How are you supposed to get the spring in the back? I’ve tried and can’t get it in it just wants to bend
Great job,I been watching since the beginning, I recently purchased a ballistic advantage lower receiver, right after that I found your channel ,I love the receiver,personally it's one of the top receivers. Thanks for the channel and the build!
You got it, Gman! Thanks for giving us a shot! Don't forget to check out our Sub-MOA Guarantee barrels.
A couple of additional tips: 1. If you are installing a receiver plate with a QD mount, double check that you don't put it in backward. The indented ring inside the hole needs to be toward the outside. 2. The full length takedown pin spring can often put too much pressure onto the detent and press it too hard into the groove of the takedown pin, making it very stiff and scratchy. You can cut 1/4 inch off the takedown pin spring and it will actually work better with the reduced compression. 3. Also, the detent pin head and takedown pin groove might need a light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper, and the groove should be greased, in order to reduce friction even more.
Awesome video. Thank you. Your barrels are top notch coyote killers btw
Thank you very much. It was my first time taking down a buffer and putting it back together. WOW I made it more of a hassle than it had to be lol.
This is all I needed to complete my lower. Thank you very much. 🤘🏾🙌🏾💯
Great video, really well structured.
Always put Aero shell grease on the receiver extension (buffer tube) threads and torque the castle nut to 38 foot pounds..Then stake it in two spots..
Take a 4-40 tap when tap hole for the rear take down pin spring hole. Take the spring using wire cutters cut about 1/8'' off spring. Then put in take down pin, detent, spring. Use a 4-40 -1/8 set grub screw and you'll never have to mess with the spring again.
I had this idea as well. Looking for a comment like this to give myself "permission" to do it.
I twisted my buffer til it was upright and covering the retainer pin properly but when I racked and did a dry fire the retainer pin popped out and into the barrel while the spring got mangled under the bolt. Any idea what it could've been? Too much of a twist or not enough?
I was putting on a hellfire kit.. I appreciate any advice and thanks in advance
How you had it held then with your explanation it was so simple to fix. Done well bro and thank you
Excellent video! You just saved me time and money.
Excellent post, thank you for sharing.
great video. I've got a question. when I want to disassemble the tube, would it be too difficult to remove the ring because of the punch you made? thanks.
Not at all. Staking is not permanent, simply twist it off.
Exactly what i needednandnno fluff, THANK YOU
so what happens if you want to remove the buffer tube after you punched that metal? how do you remove the castle nut?
Place your castle nut wrench on the castle nut securely and give it a good crank. It will come off. School of the American Rifle has a how-to video on this.
Just what I needed 👌
Can I get a close-up on that notch you hammered at 4:02?
Awesome video! Exactly what I needed!
Clint, so I recently built an ar for the first time. I am having an issue. When a round is in the chamber, my CH is really hard to pull back in order to make my rifle safe and unload that round. At first I thought I had an issue with my extractor, I changed it and put a new one in. I shot couple mags with no issues and it cycles just fine. For some reason I cannot rack that charge handle. Any ideas what it could be? It almost feels like it is catching on something. It only does this when a round is in the chamber.
Do I have to remove that buffer tube to install a replacement detent and spring??
Straight to the point. Thank you
I did exactly this method and staked it in one position. The manual says the torque spec is 38-40ft/lb
Mine is probably around 25ft/lb and feels sturdy. Is 38-40 really required for maximum reliability? I just can't imagine it coming loose, especially staked, even under very hard use. Your thoughts? I imagine it's one of those things people overthink about. I guess myself included lol
I've built two rifles and never torqued to disc or staked the cage nut. Get out hand tight then wrench it snug and it'll be fine.
If you need reassurance use a silver sharpie and make a coke indexing marks. If it moves then re- tighten and stake if you want to.
I saw another comment that suggested loc tite.
Excellent tutorial
Semper Fidelis
I’ve done this recently and it works great. But it took so many tries to get the buffer tube perfectly aligned. What is the trick to get it aligned? I don’t understand why after so many tries I randomly ended up having the buffer tube completely positioned correctly.
I just ignored alignment lmao
Don’t end plates and receiver extensions have notches that line everything up?
@@radjamss6390 there’s a certain distance that the buffer tube is supposed to travel. If you make it travel too far then the detect thing, that is holding in the buffer spring, will now be underneath the buffer tube. Everything is pretty easy to lineup yes. But I guess PSA has a hard time with buffer Springs and buffer tubes sometimes because it was like freaking 3 of them.
I don't understand why people stake the nut before they even know if the rifle is functioning properly.
Or why they don’t want to use a simple spring punch.
Fixed stock enjoyers stay winning
Is loctite on the threads necessary?
Rear take down pin, indent pin spring is the single biggest problem I have with an AR build.
How do you make sure the buffer tube is “clocked” exactly straight up and down?
It has a whole in it for the buffer detent cant go wrong
I ran into this issue. The buffer tube did not stay clocked when tightening and it shifted. Did not even get to torque the castle nut and the threads got damaged. It has a groove in the threads that align with the end plate, but didn’t stay in place.
Thank you so much 🙏🏻
Best assembly video.
Total noob question but is that detent spring actually necessary? I don't see it sliding out and the gun popping up just bc that's not there
Yes it is. It keeps the takedown pin in place. The takedown pin will walk out while firing and if it comes out then you will experience a catastrophic failure and possibly damage your lower.
Ok hiw many springs did yiu lose before this lol. Seems like the detent spring is so long . I always use a razor blade to hild it down. Nice video thak you
Lmao helppp my rear detent spring is so long it makes the takedown pin unmoveable when put in
@@pikeponcio587 what did you do to fix this?
@@gagestamper2382 I still haven’t. Cleaning it has become an hour long process so I’m trying to sell it
@@pikeponcio587 i have found out that cutting about a 1/4 inch off the spring works great with some gun oil.
@@pikeponcio587 hey let me know if that fixed it, if you still plan on selling im more than happy to buy
Thank you so much for the video, would definitely watch more of your other one 👍
You didn’t show the the detention and spring where it needs to land when you out in buffer if it goes where the cut out is or not
what size is the buffer retaining spring?
Great tutorial vid!
Thanks for the straight forward video
Omg I needed this video! Thank you so much I couldn’t find anyone explaining this, this is exactly what I needed thanks man fr!
Great helpful videos thanks for sharing
Thank You
Sure would have been nice if you’d have addressed the actual buffer and spring. It’s my first time working on an AR, and this was worse than unhelpful. It set me back quite a little while. Being completely uneducated in putting one of these together, I followed your instructions precisely, and was left with the buffer and spring on my bench.
Can anyone explain to me why the spare detent spring I bought is too long?
Thanks
Your video is great. I watched some of these other videos that waste my time and it’s like they don’t want people to know and that pisses me off
Excellent
Ty
Its 1242 midnight and I am watching this video after ordering replacement parts because not only did I lose one of thr springs, but I sheared the buffer retaining pins when I "installed a folding adapter
I suggest turning buffer tube to the right side a bit then iserting the latch pin spring, return to position and usin a sma.ll screwdriver to ailing with latch plate and push in then tighten castle nut
thanks i'm subscribing and clicking the bell.
🤦🏾I did a function check without reinstalling my spring and buffer. Now what? How do I fix this.. my carrier is in the buffer tube I think.
💀😂
Liked saved and commented good advice
😊
thx for this....
Thanks man, great video. These styles of rifles are not my strong point
Awesome!
Awesome video but can you send a large picture of what you've done when you said you had punched a hole into the end plate
What the fuck? How did you get that asshole spring to go in the fucking hole? I have lost 3 trying to fix this piece of shit, and waisted 20$ ordering new springs. They go in so far, get kinked, then when I touch them, they fly off to another fucking dimension somewhere. Fuck my life, is all I can say. I swear, if I didn't like it so much, I would throw this fucking gun over the fucking mountain.
Hahahhaha funny
Lol. Some tap the hole and install a set screw to hold the spring in place
Great concise well done instructional video👍
these are gonna make me drink
Welp i need to buy a castle nut wrench
Can’t even see it
My dumbass had the plate the backwards no wonder it kept moving when I tightened it smh lol
My AR doesn’t even have a detent spring😂
huh
@@lithium1770 yeah my ar 15 doesn’t have that little spring but it works fine.
Bad move using the punch tool.
Who needs a torque wrench🤷♂️ and who needs to stake in two places🤷♂️ I don’t.. hell
Same “German spec”, aka, “gud N’tight” has always worked for me 🤷🏽♂️… Don’t even own an armorers wrench 🔧 lol.
People who want to do it right, that’s who.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 exactly
Staking is a feel good for people who don't know about proper thread stretch. Watch a video on an engine build.
They will torque the connecting rods bolts to, let's say, 60 foot pounds. Then they will check bolt stretch with a gauge. If, let's say, .006 is not achieved, they will add torque until it is. That ensures proper tension on the threads to keep the nut from backing off. And they NEVER stake the nuts. Torque value is also not the end all.
Staking the BCG gas tube screws is a good idea. You might not get the torque for proper thread tension on the screws with the small bit you have to use. The bit would break first. That's where staking helps.
@@jhutch1470 Staking is part of Colt’s TDP. Colt knows more about properly building these rifles than any of us do.
Keep all your Mags loaded,
Empty Mags are like Dead Power Tool Batteries,
Useless when you need them.
Masonry Plus
Florida
Trump 2024
Dude you go waaaaaaaay too fast…. Way too fast
very good detailed instruction thank you
U might tell a rookie exactly how the buffer tube or how far it goes to hold detention down One more turn or no