Hi Dave, I haven't ever managed to get the bolts tightened all the way, and neither has anyone in any workshops that I have worked with. Glad you liked the parcel. Cheers Matt
Did this job today, was thankful I'd watched this and bought a heavy duty bar, I tried my standard one to compare and it was all flex. After the initial torque I managed to nudge the bolt round to 2pm then dropped it on the deck and got to 4pm, that was enough for me! The cap had sealer on unlike the one you had, was a nightmare, tapped it on square then got a flat piece of steel and gave it a fair few central whacks, worked well.
I did the job today and got the hub nut 180 degrees using a torque multiplier. Bloody satisfying to see it rotating at such high torque with relatively little effort. Best thing I’ve bought recently and it was only £50.
Great video as usual Dave. Similar brakes on My Skoda, mine where in similar condition too. Inside pads worn down to metal, one calliper stuck but managed to to move in eventually. I’m not mad about the design of the brakes on these. I think I’ll be keeping a closer eye on them than previous owner though.
Great video! I got mine to 90 fairly easily and then on to pretty much 180 but broke the head on the US Pro 1572 breaker bar and broke the tip on a Laser 4025 on a 40” 3/4 bar doing it. Tool damage cost more than the bearing so stopping at 90 could be a good call!
In the past I have had issues with some aftermarket parts supplied by the costumer. The worst issue was suspension ball joints separating causing the driver to lose control. Today one needs to be mindful of many sub standard parts on the market both in terms of safety and longevity. As always an informative and professional video and excellent use of breaker bar. Your accent makes me homesick even after 40 odd years in Australia.
Yes mate, home is where the heart is. You will always be where you are from imo. Yes there are ball joint suppliers that i do not use as i know they will not last. Jury is out atm on these NAPA parts. Where are you from originally?
Tell customers to accept the terms that if the parts they supply are incorrect, there is a surcharge for then going to get the correct ones. The simplest thing to do is say "no customer supplied parts fitted" - it simply isn't worth the hassle when in the half hour you're off correcting parts, you've lost an hour's work elsewhere.
great video with good views and commentary all the way through, agree the 180NM + 180 deg is basically unachievable, because like you mentioned all the torque is being absorbed by the suspension and not getting delivered to the wheel bolt, but that is where I got on my A4 B8 RR bearing I just installed - different car because a different knuckle and axle shaft with it being Quattro but same story on the wheel bolt, I only could get a 90deg final torque which is plenty. I have a TDI jetta as well, with the LR cable sticking like you mentioned any thoughts on how to free that up short of having to replace it, I really would rather not have to open up the console that is a pain - thanks for your video here, very good content
Enjoy from USA. As you said, they are mad with that kind of torgue. I ended bending a 1/2 breaker bar. I have 385miles on Jetta. They seem to go every 50-75k miles.
Getting the 180° is pretty easy. I use the first breaker bar you showed off (which does have a slight bend in it) with my jack handle as a cheater and put all my weight on it with constant pressure. I'm also 6'4" and 230lbs so the weight probably helps 😅 (193cm and 16.5st/104kg)
Good video thanks. Just did this job myself on an Audi A3 and it was pretty easy. On the Audi A3 8P you don't even need to remove the caliper carrier as you can get the disc off without removing it, which makes the whole job nice and easy. The tightening of the axle bolt was difficult - I got to 90 degrees and couldn't do anymore. My 1/2 breaker bar with an added cheater bar was bending and i was worried something was going to break so left it there. It's still on crazy tight though so hopefully it isn't going anywhere! What make/model breaker bar do you use? It looks heavy duty!
Nice one, Dave! I suspect I've this job to do on mine - alerted by strange mucky orange deposit on disc edge and on pads, slight noise rotating and slight whiff of burned (polymer), so thinking seal in that bearing assembly.
Hi Dave I work with the vag stuff day in day out, I usually do exactly what you do as a rule of thumb I say 180nm and 90 degrees as the 180 is not achievable. Thanks Derek
Always a bonus if the brake discs can be removed without disturbing those carriers those spline bolts can be Soooo tight. I’m with you on the extra thick beaker bar have one myself and does it make a difference.
You'll have to put on a bit more weight on Dave in order to get to the 180', I don't be able to achieve it either & I think it ain't coming out at that 90'. Nice walk through
Great job Dave, the colour of outside edge of disc that red/orange is always telltale sign brake has been sticking, as regards the torque for the centre bolt I don’t think that is needed at all there is little force on that bolt the axle is the load bearing part here the bolt is just keeping it in place.
Hello Dave have you had any experience with the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I have front ones to do on my seat Ibiza 6j 2010 2.0tdi, I’m game for getting it done myself on the drive just worried about if the bearing/hub needs pressed in/out or can you buy the special tool to separate it from the knuckle? Thanks from a fellow norn iron guy 😂
Hi Dave, another excellent video. I was impressed by your heavy duty breaker bar. I looked on your Amazon tools web page, but couldn't see it there. Could you tell me what brand and model bar you used in this video? Also I was thinking how much time, grief and effort you have saved viewers who naturally think you had to remove the caliper retainer, to access the disc for removal. It's a pity all manufacturers haven't adopted this system. Keep the videos coming, I always look forward to a new video from you.
Straight forward enough hey Dave!!! They have simular silly torque spec on the front hub bearing on some audi cars. Always fear they will shear off when tightening them.
Dave I never understand why manufacturers pre assemble bolts with thread locker already on them. Surely you’ll be fighting it when tightening the bolt and most of it will come off before the bolt is torqued correctly. Am I missing something? Cheers
Hi, Dave, The only criticism I have it's VERY serious! Who makes that tea? It's like dishwater. I have the spoon stand up in it with a spot of milk. Yours looks like horlicks lol
Scaffold pipe on a 3/4” breaker bar for the bolt. Never broken one yet. Totally agree though; mental tight. Maybe a few more Ulster frys Dave, get some more weight swinging on it. Or at the very least, stick your wallet in you back pocket first 😜 Seriously though mate, another top job. 100% with the wee bit grease on the stub axle. If you ever have to pull that bearing again to maybe punch out an ABS sensor or something, you’ll be glad you greased it. I like to give the stub a wee clean with scotch-Britt too; can only help. 👍
I just do them up tight…!!!!!!. I haven’t used any Napa bearings yet. Let us know if it lasts. What’s your motor trade background Dave. If you don’t mind me asking?..
Never heard of the napa brand outside of south main auto . We have been slowly getting more and more napa parts Coil springs seem really competitive on price. Vs regular suppliers
Hi Dave! What's the tool you use to get the rear disc out of the bearing? It seems to be a kind of impact tool.....i use to hit it with a hammer....your way seems more professional and safer. Thanks 😉
@@davesterl Yeah you do. :) And I support that opinion. Aparently the torque of that bolt is nominally 315 NM if you want to go NM all the way. I googled 315nm torque wrench and it returned 3-15nm as the result. Same for torque stick. Also you are aparently liable to cause damage to the bearing if you torque it on the ground. Dont mistake though I liked your video. And I got the answer to the question wether it's possible to remove the brake disc without removing the caliper bracket. Thanks! I hopefully won't need to remove the bolt after all since I only need access to get the broken abs sensor out.
@@rimmersbryggeri if you put weight on the bearing with the bolt loose then then bearing could be damaged. If it's tightened to the 180NM, a lot of guys would lower the car for final tightening. I don't see a problem with that provided the bolt has had it's initial tightening.
Another top job Dave ,I am sat on me bum at home , we've all caught the nasty one , hopefully can go back out next weds , still no taste or smell , but the kids (teenagers can smell and taste ) , never watched as many utube videos , liked the Napa ref 😂😂, have done a few of these before , even cheated before undoing the when bearing to get the disc off when the carrier bolts look scarey , take care 💉💉, looking forward to being able to taste a chip butty soon 😂😂👍👍
@@davesterl Maybe I'm hallucinating but the big green ugga dugga thing that runs on air sure seems like an impact. I watch you loosen and tighten it for 2 solid minutes of your video LOL
Find the items that are used on the Dave Sterl channel in the Amazon shop.
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/davesterl
Hi Dave, I haven't ever managed to get the bolts tightened all the way, and neither has anyone in any workshops that I have worked with. Glad you liked the parcel. Cheers Matt
COngratulations on using the MAnual impact driver. One of the best tools in the box!
Did this job today, was thankful I'd watched this and bought a heavy duty bar, I tried my standard one to compare and it was all flex. After the initial torque I managed to nudge the bolt round to 2pm then dropped it on the deck and got to 4pm, that was enough for me! The cap had sealer on unlike the one you had, was a nightmare, tapped it on square then got a flat piece of steel and gave it a fair few central whacks, worked well.
Another great video dave. Always picking up valuable info especially after seeing that proper breaker bar in action .
Thanks 👍
That is insane Dave.. I could just imagine my 5'5" 160lbs body trying to move that lol.
Thanjs for sharing
I did the job today and got the hub nut 180 degrees using a torque multiplier. Bloody satisfying to see it rotating at such high torque with relatively little effort. Best thing I’ve bought recently and it was only £50.
Really useful video Dave, thanks!
I’m 188 lbs and had to stand on the breaker bar and voice up and down. Finally got it to 180*. Thanks for the video!
Great video as usual Dave. Similar brakes on My Skoda, mine where in similar condition too. Inside pads worn down to metal, one calliper stuck but managed to to move in eventually. I’m not mad about the design of the brakes on these. I think I’ll be keeping a closer eye on them than previous owner though.
Solid video. Thanks Dave
Very good…warnings and all !!
Clear valuable heads up thanks
Great video! I got mine to 90 fairly easily and then on to pretty much 180 but broke the head on the US Pro 1572 breaker bar and broke the tip on a Laser 4025 on a 40” 3/4 bar doing it. Tool damage cost more than the bearing so stopping at 90 could be a good call!
180nm
Love the SMA reference!
In the past I have had issues with some aftermarket parts supplied by the costumer. The worst issue was suspension ball joints separating causing the driver to lose control.
Today one needs to be mindful of many sub standard parts on the market both in terms of safety and longevity.
As always an informative and professional video and excellent use of breaker bar. Your accent makes me homesick even after 40 odd years in Australia.
Yes mate, home is where the heart is. You will always be where you are from imo. Yes there are ball joint suppliers that i do not use as i know they will not last. Jury is out atm on these NAPA parts. Where are you from originally?
@@davesterl Born in Portadown Co Armagh. Served dual apprenticeship in Irish Road Motors in 1970.
Tell customers to accept the terms that if the parts they supply are incorrect, there is a surcharge for then going to get the correct ones.
The simplest thing to do is say "no customer supplied parts fitted" - it simply isn't worth the hassle when in the half hour you're off correcting parts, you've lost an hour's work elsewhere.
great video with good views and commentary all the way through, agree the 180NM + 180 deg is basically unachievable, because like you mentioned all the torque is being absorbed by the suspension and not getting delivered to the wheel bolt, but that is where I got on my A4 B8 RR bearing I just installed - different car because a different knuckle and axle shaft with it being Quattro but same story on the wheel bolt, I only could get a 90deg final torque which is plenty. I have a TDI jetta as well, with the LR cable sticking like you mentioned any thoughts on how to free that up short of having to replace it, I really would rather not have to open up the console that is a pain - thanks for your video here, very good content
Enjoy from USA. As you said, they are mad with that kind of torgue. I ended bending a 1/2 breaker bar. I have 385miles on Jetta. They seem to go every 50-75k miles.
Getting the 180° is pretty easy. I use the first breaker bar you showed off (which does have a slight bend in it) with my jack handle as a cheater and put all my weight on it with constant pressure. I'm also 6'4" and 230lbs so the weight probably helps 😅 (193cm and 16.5st/104kg)
For VW Polo mk5 techical manual suggests you do 70nm + 30 degrees.
Good video thanks.
Just did this job myself on an Audi A3 and it was pretty easy. On the Audi A3 8P you don't even need to remove the caliper carrier as you can get the disc off without removing it, which makes the whole job nice and easy. The tightening of the axle bolt was difficult - I got to 90 degrees and couldn't do anymore. My 1/2 breaker bar with an added cheater bar was bending and i was worried something was going to break so left it there. It's still on crazy tight though so hopefully it isn't going anywhere!
What make/model breaker bar do you use? It looks heavy duty!
Nice one, Dave!
I suspect I've this job to do on mine - alerted by strange mucky orange deposit on disc edge and on pads, slight noise rotating and slight whiff of burned (polymer), so thinking seal in that bearing assembly.
Hi Dave another brilliant video
What’s the brand of breaker bar you used can’t seem to find it anywhere
The little one paying for another job Well Done ! ...
Well done Dave i really enjoyed that video once again very educational 👍👏
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Dave I work with the vag stuff day in day out, I usually do exactly what you do as a rule of thumb I say 180nm and 90 degrees as the 180 is not achievable. Thanks Derek
Cheers Derek
Always a bonus if the brake discs can be removed without disturbing those carriers those spline bolts can be Soooo tight. I’m with you on the extra thick beaker bar have one myself and does it make a difference.
aye, those common type breaker bars are actually rubbish
You'll have to put on a bit more weight on Dave in order to get to the 180', I don't be able to achieve it either & I think it ain't coming out at that 90'. Nice walk through
Great job Dave, the colour of outside edge of disc that red/orange is always telltale sign brake has been sticking, as regards the torque for the centre bolt I don’t think that is needed at all there is little force on that bolt the axle is the load bearing part here the bolt is just keeping it in place.
The high torque is there as this is what is keeping the two parts of the bearing together. I have mentioned this in other videos
Hello Dave have you had any experience with the front wheel bearing/hub assembly? I have front ones to do on my seat Ibiza 6j 2010 2.0tdi, I’m game for getting it done myself on the drive just worried about if the bearing/hub needs pressed in/out or can you buy the special tool to separate it from the knuckle?
Thanks from a fellow norn iron guy 😂
I managed to do the 180 degrees. I had to use a 2 meter long iron pipe for leverage and some muscle power
Hi Dave, another excellent video. I was impressed by your heavy duty breaker bar. I looked on your Amazon tools web page, but couldn't see it there. Could you tell me what brand and model bar you used in this video? Also I was thinking how much time, grief and effort you have saved viewers who naturally think you had to remove the caliper retainer, to access the disc for removal. It's a pity all manufacturers haven't adopted this system. Keep the videos coming, I always look forward to a new video from you.
seems the breaker bar is out of stock on Amazon. I'll put it up when it's available
Hi Dave, just want to ask about your review on the quality of the wheel bearing from NAPA. How is it holding up until now?
What would the torque specs be for the front bearing hub and axle bolt? I can't seem to find it anywhere
Straight forward enough hey Dave!!! They have simular silly torque spec on the front hub bearing on some audi cars. Always fear they will shear off when tightening them.
aye same deal on the fronts to hold the bearing together
Dave I never understand why manufacturers pre assemble bolts with thread locker already on them. Surely you’ll be fighting it when tightening the bolt and most of it will come off before the bolt is torqued correctly. Am I missing something?
Cheers
Hi, Dave, The only criticism I have it's VERY serious! Who makes that tea? It's like dishwater. I have the spoon stand up in it with a spot of milk. Yours looks like horlicks lol
Guilty! I've been slated before for my tea
Agreed, sort your life out
have you got a link for that bar . i need one for my locking wheel nut removal . keep braking the normal ones
i tried to add it to the amazon store but it's currently unavailable. Google US PRO 1572
What mm inner bore is this bearing
Scaffold pipe on a 3/4” breaker bar for the bolt. Never broken one yet. Totally agree though; mental tight. Maybe a few more Ulster frys Dave, get some more weight swinging on it. Or at the very least, stick your wallet in you back pocket first 😜 Seriously though mate, another top job. 100% with the wee bit grease on the stub axle. If you ever have to pull that bearing again to maybe punch out an ABS sensor or something, you’ll be glad you greased it. I like to give the stub a wee clean with scotch-Britt too; can only help. 👍
your're a funny guy Russell lol
you know its tight enough when its tight! never got more than 120 degrees on one myself.
aye, as tight as you can get it
I just do them up tight…!!!!!!. I haven’t used any Napa bearings yet. Let us know if it lasts. What’s your motor trade background Dave. If you don’t mind me asking?..
i've been working on cars since i was a kid
Nice work Dave...Do you own a torque multiplier? I don't, but wish I did on occasion. And no...I don't mean a longer cheater pipe 🤣
Naw i don't, the HGV guys use those
That axle bolt. it's tight enough around there.
Great Video Dave but jesus do you want some tea with that milk?
Yes please!
Never heard of the napa brand outside of south main auto . We have been slowly getting more and more napa parts
Coil springs seem really competitive on price. Vs regular suppliers
The specs on that bearing bolt are ridiculous lol. Great call on the disc and pads.
Cheers
Is that Poppy giving you some money to go and get her some ice cream? 😀🍦
Haha, she'll get a lot of ice cream with that wad
Hi Dave! What's the tool you use to get the rear disc out of the bearing? It seems to be a kind of impact tool.....i use to hit it with a hammer....your way seems more professional and safer. Thanks 😉
Impact driver. About a tenner
The autodoc tutorial says 75 newton meters for the stub axle bolt. 180+180 deg seems wildly excessive.
@@rimmersbryggeri that spec would be typical for 4wd variants
@@davesterl Ok. But 180 + 180 is nuts. even 90+90 can be difficult to achieve in my expernce.
@@rimmersbryggeri I do say this in the video
@@davesterl Yeah you do. :) And I support that opinion. Aparently the torque of that bolt is nominally 315 NM if you want to go NM all the way. I googled 315nm torque wrench and it returned 3-15nm as the result. Same for torque stick. Also you are aparently liable to cause damage to the bearing if you torque it on the ground. Dont mistake though I liked your video. And I got the answer to the question wether it's possible to remove the brake disc without removing the caliper bracket. Thanks! I hopefully won't need to remove the bolt after all since I only need access to get the broken abs sensor out.
@@rimmersbryggeri if you put weight on the bearing with the bolt loose then then bearing could be damaged. If it's tightened to the 180NM, a lot of guys would lower the car for final tightening. I don't see a problem with that provided the bolt has had it's initial tightening.
Another top job Dave ,I am sat on me bum at home , we've all caught the nasty one , hopefully can go back out next weds , still no taste or smell , but the kids (teenagers can smell and taste ) , never watched as many utube videos , liked the Napa ref 😂😂, have done a few of these before , even cheated before undoing the when bearing to get the disc off when the carrier bolts look scarey , take care 💉💉, looking forward to being able to taste a chip butty soon 😂😂👍👍
Good man Mike, Keep the chin up. Take care
118 nm plus 180°degree turn colockwise. you say at the start of this clip. you end up doing only 118 nm and a quarter turn(90 clockwise 90°... why
Do you not listen
Forget the wheel bearing, what on earth is that cuppa???😮😂
No impact gun on that axle bolt says the Bentley
That's correct. Did you see me lossening or tightening the bolt with an impact?
@@davesterl Maybe I'm hallucinating but the big green ugga dugga thing that runs on air sure seems like an impact. I watch you loosen and tighten it for 2 solid minutes of your video LOL
@@chrisnicholais5587 i ran the bolt in and out with the impact. Not loosened or tightened.
vw also but not using it to tighten the bolt or loosening it. It will break.
Ridiculous torque specs. I'm going to go 180nm then 90 personally.
is this english?
No
No silly, its Chinese - same language, as you asked your question in...