42RLE Rebuild
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2021
- 2008 Jeep Wrangler
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Awesome video. About to tackle my first trans rebuild and your step by step guide here is going to be a lifesaver. Worried about pressing in the bushings but otherwise, seems pretty straightforward. I appreciate it!
Thanks for watching. Hope all goes well for you. If you have a press that helps. Then the only thing you need is something that is the same size as the bushing. Be sure and remove that little ridge inside the overdrive/underdrive drum before putting that one back in.
ok, so 2 minutes into this video and I'm already calling the shop. LOL
Thanks for watching.
Right on. Damn those solenoid packs on the 42RLEs...
Видео по содержанию просто супер, огромное спасибо за то что специалист поделился своими секретами. Только вот досадно что не на русском.
Спасибо. Субтитры на и TH-cam должен перевести их. Сказав, что субтитры TH-cam и перевод не было очень хорошо, на мой взгляд. Я пытался пойти и вручную положить субтитры, но это очень много времени. Спасибо за просмотр.
You are the best. Big help
Glad I could help, thanks for watching.
Absolutely mind boggling the kind of craftsmanship that goes into your typical transmission.. I know someone with a Chrysler 300 with this transmission and it has over 230 on it..
That's awesome, they are doing well then, most do not make it that far.
I have a 42RE with 500k miles, I just rebuilt it and there was no friction left on the direct clutches but overdrive and apply bands were still like new
now I have 6 friction discs instead of just 4
I'm at 185k in a 2005 dakota, pulling a trailer w/mower all the time almost.
It slips into 2nd sometimes, and the shift out of 3rd can be noticed occasionally as well.
And somedays it's just fine.
I've already looked into a refurbished one with a 5-year warranty. 1,900 doesn't seem that bad. Installation will be about 400 more with fluids and sensors
@@ihatecrackhead wow!! Cool.
Thank's full sir,your vidio very-very help me🙏
Most welcome
It’s impressive how many types of transmissions some guys know how to put together just off the top of their head. I’ve got a side business doing manual transmissions for folks. There are a handful I’ve done enough of that I no longer need to reference the manuals, but that’s maybe three or four of them. Definitely not the dozens I’ve seen on this channel.
Thanks, been doing it a long time. Thanks for watching them.
Bien expricado mi maestro
Thanks.
Really helpful thanks men
Thanks for watching.
I like this guy.
Thanks, thanks forwatching.
Mine broke down at 248k miles, because the tapered snap ring broke and the 2-4 piston is warped. Also the low reverse and 2-4 clutch packs where very worn down. Now im finishing my rebuild and this video has been a great help.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission hey a question, im having trouble installing my 2-4 piston, should i use assembly lube to make the bellevile spring stick to the bottom while installing? Can i add assembly lube to the center support so that it slides better on the transmission case spines?
You can try it. Going to need to be pretty thick lube and lots of it, probably. I line the cutout of the piston up with the tab of the support and hold the Belleville with my finger. Tapping the support down with a screwdriver till it is almost down and it usually stays lined up.
Also can i use "permatex ultra grey gasket maker high torque" for the pump gasket?
@@javieracevedo9352 It doesn't need that on the gasket. No you can't use it FOR the gasket.
Magnífico
Thanks
Muchas gracias!! Me sirvió mucho para hacer el diagnóstico inicial de mi transmisión. Ya descarté el cuerpo de válvulas y solenoides + sensores de velocidad + aceite + filtro, sin embargo la falla continúa. Funciona solo la primera y reversa, pero si pongo la selectora en D o 2da pasan unos metros y pierde tracción (como si quedara en neutro). Según su experiencia serán los discos de 2da 4ta los que están jodidos?
Maybe the 2-4 piston or stripped planet.
Very informative video. Where can you purchase this complete kit? I have an 05 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 42rle transmission. I'm thinking about rebuilding but can't find an complete quality rebuild kit.
Transtar, WIT or the dealer. Transtar and WIT links are in the description. They usually sell the dealer kit also, although usually you can get it cheaper from the dealer.
Awesome video! I do have a question about the pump. I am going to replace the pump because it is losing prime and was wondering if I need to remove the valve body before I take the pump out? I've seen a couple videos of it being taken out after the valve body was removed and you installed the pump before you installed the valve body. Thank you in advance,I greatly appreciate your help and expertise.
Thanks. No, the pump can be replaced without taking the valve body off. Just pull the bolts out and it can be removed.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission awesome! Thank you for the quick reply
Great tutorial👌.
I managed to replace VB.filter. ring for accumulators.
But Durango wont go forward only backwards. It tries to move forward but goes like Neutral.
I'm assuming that everything was fine and all you did is what is stated here. You have misplaced a checkball, seal or accumulator is backwards.
Yup did everything as you showed.
Ill go through it all again and will let you know.
Does the VB need to be programed?
Whats the relearn procedure?
Thanks for the quick reply.🙏
On a Snap-On scanner you clear the codes. Go to functional tests and reset the adaptives. Then go to quick learn and do it. If it has the option to reset the battery do that first, then do the others.
Should the extension shaft in the extension housing have any play in it after it’s pressed down onto the snap ring?
It will have some play.
Hello! Tell me what role does the thermal valve play in the valve body (42RLE) and what causes its malfunction? When it’s cold, it opens a little, heats up and closes completely, and if you heat it up more, it opens completely. Thanks for the answer in advance and very good video!
Holds fluid in the upper part of the unit until it reaches operating temperature. Then it allows the fluid it was holding to go back to the sump.
I recently picked up a supposedly rebuilt transmission, but I've immediately ran into issues with it. At first it drove kinda fine but then wouldn't shift into anything higher than either 1st or 2nd, and if its in Netrual or Reverse it will still move forward with throttle. Have you ever heard of that? Im no expert on transmissions but I have torn a 42RLE apart before so id like to do it myself if possible.
Yes I have seen that before. You have a set of clutches that are burned so bad they have welded together. Probably the low reverse or the underdrive, but you won't know for sure till you get in there.
Got a 42RLE that I built. When putting it into gear, it just dies. About to pull it back out, but any idea where to start looking? Vb?
Chryslers are bad about doing that just being low on fluid. Could be a bad T/C, plugged cooler, problem in the VB.
Could you please tell me How tight is the output shaft nuts supposed to be?
200 ft. lbs., Turning torque 8 in. lbs.
Добрый вечер. Хотел бы узнать может быть у вас есть видео по блоку селеноидов 42rle. Разборка чистка и прядок сборки.
Извините, нет, я не делаю.
Ок. Извините что по безпокоил.
И спасибо ещё раз за ваше видео, оно очень помогло собрать мне мою АКПП.
Спасибо за просмотр. Рад, что я мог дать любую помощь, которую я сделал.
I replaced shift solenoid and now it won’t go into R N or P it goes into D 1st and 2nd fine. Guessing something got out of wack when I pushed back into place??
The park rod is hitting on the actuator. Sometimes you can pop it into place without taking the valve body back off.
Not intending to criticize, but more of a question. I see you using a power wrench on the valve body. I've been rebuilding transmissions since about 1968. I used to use an impact on them as well. I got bit really hard on a THM400 about 1970. Factory man was on the premises, and his first question was "did you use a torque wrench on the valve body?" I had not. He told me to drop the pan and retorque the valve body bolts and it would fix the problem. I did, and it did. Ever since that, I religiously use a torque wrench and follow factory specs for torque.
At least you were nice about it, most are not. Old habits can be hard to break. Been trying to be more diligent about it since people take exception to it. Thanks for watching and sharing.
After you put in the tapered snappering is the planetary able to spin Mine will not turn? The snapping is in real tight.
It should turn. Something is put together wrong. Thin clutches and steels on the bottom, thick on top.
All the clutches in the brand new kit are the same size but the steals are different sizes.
I figured it out they're not the same Thank you for the help..
I am needing help with a check ball placement for a 2012 jeep liberty valve body
Does it have the VLP sensor? You will need to go to my Instagram for me to get it to you.
Whats the difference between the 918 case and 992 case 42rle
I don't know for 100%, but there are 8 different cases for that unit. All have to do with the placement of the starter and the distance between the top bolts. There are 2 992's an AA and an AB. I am assuming the AB is probably for the addition of the case connector being added for the VLP system, but I don't know that for a fact.
good afternoon, I do not understand your system of measures, snap ring write the order of the thickness of the retaining rings from the pump to the bottom in millimeters. thank you in advance.
if something is not clear, sorry I am writing through a translator
Sorry I don't have the time to do that right now I am super busy. Just type in your web browser convert decimal to mm and it will pull one up. Type in the decimal and it will convert it for you.
So here is my problem Got everything put back together, it drove perfectly for 2 days now it'll drive about 200 feet and drive Will kick out if I turn the Jeep off and restart it I put it in drive and it will go About 200 feet if I put it in reverse. It works just fine then I put it and drive and it will go again for about 200 feet. But if I put it in low, it will just go and keep going. Do you have any idea why it's doing this?
If I had to guess, since you did not give any trouble codes. It probably has codes fault after a shift and gear ratio in 3rd. Either clutch problems or a hub broke or stripped.
Hubs and clutches are brand new I followed your video Piece by piece, When installing it.. if something was stripped Then why is it when I turn the Jeep off? Restart it, everything works fine, then stop working.
Really need to know what the trouble codes are. When you shut it off and restart it it will clear the short term memory. Then as soon as the problem occurs it will fail.
What is the difference between 42LE and A606?
Basically the same. The 42RLE is based off the 606. They just made it rear wheel drive instead of front wheel.
is possible you can give me some advice? i just did a rebuild on a 42rle. 1st 42rle ive ever done. I have a code for transmission pressure range sensor A, Its hesitant going forward. The Original problem was that the transmission wouldn't move in reverse but now it works fine but its not shifting out going foward
Double check your connectors at the transmission and make sure they are plugged all the way in. Sometimes debris can get in the connector and keep it from going all the way in. make sure the connector clicks when you plug it all the way in and will not pull off when you tug on it. If it does you will need to replace the connector end. Good thing about Dodge is they sell most of their connector ends. If that is ok look and make sure you did not pinch a wire between the bellhousing and block. If that looks ok pull the valve body and make sure all the wires there are ok and double check your check ball locations. They are different between the VLP system and non VLP.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes sir will do. Im definitely going double check it again. I appreciate you replying back to me.
you have to reprogram it after mounting
No. Reset the adaptives and relearn the shifts.
What grease are you using to lube
Was using Transgel Gold, no longer available. Now using Blue. A long time ago I used Red. But when it would melt people would think the transmission was leaking. That's why I started using Gold.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks! Getting ready to rebuild my wife’s liberty trans. Great video for me to go off of. I love how you showed all the measurements
Hope it helps, thanks for watching.
Do you have an actual shop or is this a hobby for you? If you do where are you located?
Not a hobby. Been my profession for 37 years now. I get asked this a lot. Not being rude, but I don't give that out. One of the reasons being I do not own the shop and have no say so in how you are treated.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I understand just hard to find someone who knows their stuff and you look like a professional. I have an 08 Dakota and didn’t want to just throw parts at it if it needed a rebuild. I appreciate your video’s.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I understand completely. Just hard to find someone honest and good at the same time. Thanks for the quality videos. Keep them up.
If you need a shop go to the ATRA website and go to the shop finder tab. They can give you suggestions. www.atra.com/
After you put in the tapered snappering is the planetary supposed to be able to spin..
The “Dentist” of transmission service. Change that fluid at least every 30k miles, or do what I do, every other oil change I’ll suck out and replace 2-3 quarts of ATF+4, I use Mopar fluid ONLY, to always keep fresh ATF in the mix. DO NOT EVER fall for this “Lifetime Fluid” or “Sealed Transmission” crap. My daughters Mazda CX5 has “lifetime” transmission fluid, well at 30k miles I did a drain and fill, and that ZF fluid it takes is a nice sky blue, and what came out after 30k miles looked like used motor oil, so that tells you right there.
I don't believe in Lifetime either. Have always changed mine every couple of years. Thanks for watching.
those clutches seems to be dry... they should be soaked overnight
Everyone makes a big deal out of soaking the clutches. Been building these things for 36 years. Used to soak them, don't see any difference between soaking them and not. Every single builder I know, and I know a lot of them do not soak them. If you want to soak them, soak them. Even if you do 20-30 minutes is fine.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission at least a minimum of lubricant is better than nothing. If you start the engine without any atf on the clutch they get hot, there is always some friction between the steel and the clutches, until fluid can get there. Some builder fill the torque converter before installing, is it worth it?
@@ItsJust2SXTs Like I said I have looked at them having soaked them and installing them, and then looked at the ones I have not soaked and having installed them. Have not noticed a difference between the two. That has been done multiple times by me so it is not just a one off deal. But like I said if you want to soak them, soak them. I don't and have not for about 25 years now and not had any issues from it. Putting a little in the converter if you want is ok also. The installers here usually don't. The only one I can think of that it would be a great idea to do is the Ford 5R110W. That thing has a tendency to wipe the pump out on the lift, it sucks fluid so fast you can not fill it fast enough. I would put about 9 qts. in it and start it up and then shut it off immediately and put 9 more in before starting it again.