Dude. Thanks for this. Took me 3 hours but I couldn't have done it without this video. And for the record Id rather get a root canal with no anesthesia while listening to mumble rap than do this again. You're my hero.
I just did mine on my 1988 OMC Cobra, same engine as yours. I removed both exhaust manuifolds with the elbows still attached and then had good access. The hardest part were the 4 cotter pins, one on each bolt that holds it to the transom and the smaller ones for the steeing arm and steeing cable. The bottom bolt on the actuator is a little hard to get at but I was able to get it off. My actuator is the older style Bendix one with the seperate control valve that is actually rebuildable, parts are available because the same unit was used on older Corvettes and Mustangs, among other cars. On those both the control valve and hydraulic cylinder can be rebuilt. Yours is the newer style that started being used in about 1990.
2008 Monterey 194fs First Im going to use hairpins instead of cotter pins when I replace. Hardest was the big bolt on the bottom to remove the cotter pin. After a lot of trying to punch it through finally grabbed the loop of the cotter with a punch and tried to wedge it out and my biggest fear was realized and it broke in half. This is after 3 mo of working on it off and on. Then I got an angle drill with chuck {drill attachment} from Harbor freight with a 1/8th bit and grilled it completely out in about 5 min. Used the next size bigger bit to clean it out. Still Had some bits of the aluminum cotter pin when the bolt came out but did not get in the threads unscrewing it. Probably more an issue crewing it in having pieces of the pin in there. I had to cut the big pin in half that attaches to the transom with a sawzall. It was still stuck at the bottom so I had to cut it below the transom attachment. Finally got the actuator out and had to punch the rest of the pin out with a hammer. Not sure why it was stuck. I will probably get longer pins to replace all of them. Sent to 5 star Marine to rebuild. Replacing the hydraulic pump when I install the actuator. It was making noise.
Hi. Installation was way easier than removal so I didn’t video it. I did pay a rebuild service for doing the seals, I also was tempted to do the seals myself, but figured with all the sweat involved in removing it, that I would pay a shop for the seals. There is another TH-cam video already describing the rebuild. Good luck!
@@jeffkrietemeyer1570 Thanks, I"m probably going to try a hydraulic shop to put the seal in, others have said a shop put it in for them cheap and easy.
I did have a hydraulic shop put it on for 20 dollars, 10 dollars for kit from orings and things. 30 dollars instead of 950 dollars for new actuator. Thanks for the video it really helped
Hi. Personally I chickened out and sent the whole actuator to Five Star Marine in Florida. And it’s been running well all season so far. Chris Moore commented below that he bought a rebuild seal kit from “O-Rings and Things” for $10 and had a hydraulic shop near him install them for $20 labor. Which sounds to me like a great way to go for minimizing cost.
I used hairpins for the pins and did not use any pins on the bolts. Bolts are pretty tight. Im going to keep my eye on them. Everything is working perfect. Also 5 Star Marine said use AW32 Hydraulic Fluid for the Volvo Penta
Dude. Thanks for this. Took me 3 hours but I couldn't have done it without this video. And for the record Id rather get a root canal with no anesthesia while listening to mumble rap than do this again.
You're my hero.
Thank you for creating this video. This was very helpful as I prepared (dreaded) to remove the steering actuator in my boat recently!
I just did mine on my 1988 OMC Cobra, same engine as yours. I removed both exhaust manuifolds with the elbows still attached and then had good access. The hardest part were the 4 cotter pins, one on each bolt that holds it to the transom and the smaller ones for the steeing arm and steeing cable. The bottom bolt on the actuator is a little hard to get at but I was able to get it off. My actuator is the older style Bendix one with the seperate control valve that is actually rebuildable, parts are available because the same unit was used on older Corvettes and Mustangs, among other cars. On those both the control valve and hydraulic cylinder can be rebuilt. Yours is the newer style that started being used in about 1990.
It’s probably the first time my boat gets referred to as the newer kind :-). Glad to hear yours was rebuildable at home.
Man this is an excellent excellent video thank you
Thank You for the video, same issue here on a LSR 1900
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for the vid, it was very very helpful!
If replacing the cylinder, what part would be used? I see the Volvo part has opposite fittings for the hoses, Does that matter?
2008 Monterey 194fs
First Im going to use hairpins instead of cotter pins when I replace.
Hardest was the big bolt on the bottom to remove the cotter pin. After a lot of trying to punch it through finally grabbed the loop of the cotter with a punch and tried to wedge it out and my biggest fear was realized and it broke in half. This is after 3 mo of working on it off and on. Then I got an angle drill with chuck {drill attachment} from Harbor freight with a 1/8th bit and grilled it completely out in about 5 min. Used the next size bigger bit to clean it out. Still Had some bits of the aluminum cotter pin when the bolt came out but did not get in the threads unscrewing it. Probably more an issue crewing it in having pieces of the pin in there. I had to cut the big pin in half that attaches to the transom with a sawzall. It was still stuck at the bottom so I had to cut it below the transom attachment. Finally got the actuator out and had to punch the rest of the pin out with a hammer. Not sure why it was stuck. I will probably get longer pins to replace all of them. Sent to 5 star Marine to rebuild. Replacing the hydraulic pump when I install the actuator. It was making noise.
Thanks for this video
do you have the next video? got it out thanks to you, would rather put in orings for 60$ than 450 rebuild
Hi. Installation was way easier than removal so I didn’t video it. I did pay a rebuild service for doing the seals, I also was tempted to do the seals myself, but figured with all the sweat involved in removing it, that I would pay a shop for the seals. There is another TH-cam video already describing the rebuild. Good luck!
@@jeffkrietemeyer1570 Thanks, I"m probably going to try a hydraulic shop to put the seal in, others have said a shop put it in for them cheap and easy.
I did have a hydraulic shop put it on for 20 dollars, 10 dollars for kit from orings and things. 30 dollars instead of 950 dollars for new actuator. Thanks for the video it really helped
@@yomo40 thanks for the followup comment that this less expensive approach worked!
hello friends, great job where did you find the gasket reconstruction kit?
Hi. Personally I chickened out and sent the whole actuator to Five Star Marine in Florida. And it’s been running well all season so far. Chris Moore commented below that he bought a rebuild seal kit from “O-Rings and Things” for $10 and had a hydraulic shop near him install them for $20 labor. Which sounds to me like a great way to go for minimizing cost.
I have same boat and I was told there's a grease fitting on that steering actuator is there actually one there or was I told wrong
There’s no zerc on mine at least. I did grease the pivot bolts when I put them back. All all good so far this season!
This went out on me this year- pricy!!
And a pain to get off, stubby air ratchet would make it easier
Could i use hairpins instead of cotter pins? Way easier to install.
That is what Im doing.
I used hairpins for the pins and did not use any pins on the bolts. Bolts are pretty tight. Im going to keep my eye on them. Everything is working perfect. Also 5 Star Marine said use AW32 Hydraulic Fluid for the Volvo Penta