2008 Monterey 194fs Your Idea of drilling the cotter pin out was perfect. First Im going to use hairpins instead of cotter pins when I replace. Hardest was the big bolt on the bottom to remove the cotter pin. After a lot of trying to punch it through finally grabbed the loop of the cotter with a punch and tried to wedge it out and my biggest fear was realized and it broke in half. This is after 3 mo of working on it off and on. Then I got an angle drill with chuck {drill attachment} from Harbor freight with a 1/8th bit and drilled it completely out in about 5 min. Used the next size bigger bit to clean it out. Still Had some bits of the aluminum cotter pin when the bolt came out but did not get in the threads unscrewing it. Probably more an issue crewing it in having pieces of the pin in there. I had to cut the big pin in half that attaches to the transom with a sawzall. It was still stuck at the bottom so I had to cut it below the transom attachment. Finally got the actuator out and had to punch the rest of the pin out with a hammer. Not sure why it was stuck. I will probably get longer pins to replace all of them. Sent to 5 star Marine to rebuild. Replacing the hydraulic pump when I install the actuator. It was making noise.
Pro tip: Push the shaft all the way down with the cap off. Use some vice grips and spin the arm off the shaft by use of the arm touching the body and spinning the shaft with the vice grip. You can muck up that side of the shaft since no seal rides on that
Thanks for the video. I was able to take off the actuator after struggling a little with the cotter pins. I think I'm going to struggle putting in the seal, hope I ordered the right one. Question though, was it not possible to put in the seal from the back side? Is the diameter basically the same? I'm assuming so and it would be tougher to get it to the front. Thanks again
Sir, i am trying to fix my actuator wich is leaking.... i already have it out of my 1999 monterey montura... my part number is volvo penta actuator ram 3858128, but i can not find where to buy the rebuild seals kit!!! Would you share what is your part number and where you bought the seals ??
Was your outdrive shaking when you put it in gear? Mine also leaks and shakes violently when I put it in gear. I am assuimg its due to ait in the lines. ?!?!?
All you do is fill with fluid leave the resivoir cap off and work the steering back and forth until all the bubbles stop surfacing. Then top off the level and your good
I have the same Volvo penta engine with a leaking actuator. Can you tell me what size of gasket/seal required for these actuators? And maybe the company that you used to install the seal? Thanks!
I know 😭. I used Parker Store (714) 630-4310 Anaheim CA. It’s a gamble when not replacing the rod and just doing the seals. I took the gamble but cant say if it will last. No leaks yet.
I did one on my OMC Cobra last year. I removed the exhaust on both sides to get access. I used a cotter pin extractor to get those big cotter pins out. Not a fun job but nice to have leak free steering for the first time in a long time. The older units used by OMC and Merc used a Bendix style actuator that can be rebuilt. They were also used on classic Corvettes and Mustangs believe it or not!
I actually removed the whole exhaust system…rubber hoses…90* aluminum exhaust pipes & the manifolds/elbows. That gave me good access to both sides. Not an easy job
Thanks for the response. My actuator turns the steering and outboard completely to the side when starting. It is really throwing me through a loop but I think my starter may be shot and other things are acting up. Really hard to tell right now
You know I have never taken one of these apart but from what I’ve read there is a spool valve inside that has to balance the hydraulic pressure for it to stay balanced so to speak. So something is causing it to go to one side like a piece of grit or rubber from a deteriorating seal more likely. You only want to do this job once so I’d replace with new if possible.
That’s what my research leads me to as well. My engine will only rotate a quarter of a turn in either direction and the actuator will extend one way. I may have more than one issue going on at the moment. My starter may be extended out and in constant contact w flywheel in addition to actuator
thats how supposed to do it. and to pull a boat motor is super easy. as long ya have a chain hoist and 10ft clearance most cases. its 6 bolts. 3 ground wires. and a outdrive. i have most boat engines out on a stand in 1 hour. makes getting to transom super easy. i am watching this to refresh doing the seals. always looking for new tricks of the trade :)
If you pull the exhaust system on both sides you can usually get enough accesss to remove it. The pins in the clevis (where the cable & steering arm attach) are tough to get at, just as the mounting bolts are on the other side. So pull the exhaust on both sides and have at it. That's what I did. Pulling the exhaust doesn't take long. Pulling the engine is much more involved and beyond the ability of most do it yourselfers. The sad fact is some boats are so badly designed that it is necessary to pull the engine in some cases. Unacceptable design!
Another DIYER doing things the hard way. That's actually a relatively easy one to change if it's approached correctly. Those cotter pins can be a pain at times but there are easier and better ways to over come the corroded in pins than the way this guy handled it. This is the kind of work that makes it a nightmare for the next guy that has to work on it.
2008 Monterey 194fs
Your Idea of drilling the cotter pin out was perfect.
First Im going to use hairpins instead of cotter pins when I replace.
Hardest was the big bolt on the bottom to remove the cotter pin. After a lot of trying to punch it through finally grabbed the loop of the cotter with a punch and tried to wedge it out and my biggest fear was realized and it broke in half. This is after 3 mo of working on it off and on. Then I got an angle drill with chuck {drill attachment} from Harbor freight with a 1/8th bit and drilled it completely out in about 5 min. Used the next size bigger bit to clean it out. Still Had some bits of the aluminum cotter pin when the bolt came out but did not get in the threads unscrewing it. Probably more an issue crewing it in having pieces of the pin in there. I had to cut the big pin in half that attaches to the transom with a sawzall. It was still stuck at the bottom so I had to cut it below the transom attachment. Finally got the actuator out and had to punch the rest of the pin out with a hammer. Not sure why it was stuck. I will probably get longer pins to replace all of them. Sent to 5 star Marine to rebuild. Replacing the hydraulic pump when I install the actuator. It was making noise.
Pro tip:
Push the shaft all the way down with the cap off. Use some vice grips and spin the arm off the shaft by use of the arm touching the body and spinning the shaft with the vice grip.
You can muck up that side of the shaft since no seal rides on that
Thank you for take your time and share with us.
Thanks for the video. I was able to take off the actuator after struggling a little with the cotter pins. I think I'm going to struggle putting in the seal, hope I ordered the right one. Question though, was it not possible to put in the seal from the back side? Is the diameter basically the same? I'm assuming so and it would be tougher to get it to the front. Thanks again
Yours is much easier to access than mine. 04 four winns 190. 🤬🤬!! But luckily my cotter pins came out. Next up rebuild!
Also when replacing the cotter pins use stainless steel hairpins for easy removal
Sir, i am trying to fix my actuator wich is leaking.... i already have it out of my 1999 monterey montura... my part number is volvo penta actuator ram 3858128, but i can not find where to buy the rebuild seals kit!!! Would you share what is your part number and where you bought the seals ??
Was your outdrive shaking when you put it in gear?
Mine also leaks and shakes violently when I put it in gear. I am assuimg its due to ait in the lines. ?!?!?
Still no leaks 10 months in. 5-6 runs this year
good video... but why those gloves???
Can you share the info of the parker place ? If i send it to florida, its about 500+ shipping!
I am replacing mine this weekend. How did you bleed the system?
All you do is fill with fluid leave the resivoir cap off and work the steering back and forth until all the bubbles stop surfacing. Then top off the level and your good
I have the same Volvo penta engine with a leaking actuator. Can you tell me what size of gasket/seal required for these actuators? And maybe the company that you used to install the seal? Thanks!
Parker Store (714) 630-4310 Anaheim CA.
Would putting those 5/16 bolts in the freezer make them easier to install
I really feel your pain on this one. Do you have a number for the place you had rebuild the unit? I appreciate the info and the video.
I know 😭. I used Parker Store (714) 630-4310 Anaheim CA. It’s a gamble when not replacing the rod and just doing the seals. I took the gamble but cant say if it will last. No leaks yet.
@@dreamwavemarine9346 thank you for the info.
@@rvdogfixit You're welcome
@@dreamwavemarine9346 did you supply your own seals or did they supply them for you
@@ggutierrez9469 They supplied the main seal where the shaft meets the actuator
Where did you get the seals for the large side of cylinder?
Parker Store (714) 630-4310 Anaheim CA.
I did one on my OMC Cobra last year. I removed the exhaust on both sides to get access. I used a cotter pin extractor to get those big cotter pins out. Not a fun job but nice to have leak free steering for the first time in a long time. The older units used by OMC and Merc used a Bendix style actuator that can be rebuilt. They were also used on classic Corvettes and Mustangs believe it or not!
Just the exhaust and not the exhaust manifolds you removed, correct?
I actually removed the whole exhaust system…rubber hoses…90* aluminum exhaust pipes & the manifolds/elbows. That gave me good access to both sides. Not an easy job
Thanks for the response. My actuator turns the steering and outboard completely to the side when starting. It is really throwing me through a loop but I think my starter may be shot and other things are acting up. Really hard to tell right now
You know I have never taken one of these apart but from what I’ve read there is a spool valve inside that has to balance the hydraulic pressure for it to stay balanced so to speak. So something is causing it to go to one side like a piece of grit or rubber from a deteriorating seal more likely. You only want to do this job once so I’d replace with new if possible.
That’s what my research leads me to as well. My engine will only rotate a quarter of a turn in either direction and the actuator will extend one way. I may have more than one issue going on at the moment. My starter may be extended out and in constant contact w flywheel in addition to actuator
Seems like the removal would actually be better if you just pull the Engine. I know it seems drastic, but better in the long run.
thats how supposed to do it. and to pull a boat motor is super easy. as long ya have a chain hoist and 10ft clearance most cases. its 6 bolts. 3 ground wires. and a outdrive. i have most boat engines out on a stand in 1 hour. makes getting to transom super easy. i am watching this to refresh doing the seals. always looking for new tricks of the trade :)
If you pull the exhaust system on both sides you can usually get enough accesss to remove it. The pins in the clevis (where the cable & steering arm attach) are tough to get at, just as the mounting bolts are on the other side. So pull the exhaust on both sides and have at it. That's what I did. Pulling the exhaust doesn't take long. Pulling the engine is much more involved and beyond the ability of most do it yourselfers. The sad fact is some boats are so badly designed that it is necessary to pull the engine in some cases. Unacceptable design!
It's really not that bad had mine out in less than 1 hour. Much easier than pulling the motor
Helpful video but your friend ruined his 'precision pins' trying to use them as face pin spanners.
Another DIYER doing things the hard way. That's actually a relatively easy one to change if it's approached correctly. Those cotter pins can be a pain at times but there are easier and better ways to over come the corroded in pins than the way this guy handled it. This is the kind of work that makes it a nightmare for the next guy that has to work on it.
Thanks for the positivity! 😄. Where can we find your videos doing things your way?
@@dreamwavemarine9346 goat said show me then