Great video. I used a vise to press the new bearing in (protect the rough jaws of the vice); once the bearing was down, I used the old bearing to continue and seat it. Worked out great.
To make my job easier and avoid all the heavy banging on metal I heated the brass part (mine was not painted) before hammering out the old bearing. I put new bearing in freezer overnight then heated the brass part. They slide together with very little light hammering. Then I placed belt pulley in freezer for a couple of hours and when the new bearing was normal temp (I couldn't warm it up) the whole thing slide on to the cold pulley again with a light hammering. Cheers!
awesome video! Just completed this repair yesterday. the only thing I did differently, was to use the vise to slowly push the bearing home. ar the end, i used the old bearing to push it home using the vice. thanks for taking the time to put this out there!
What a good video! I did my pump today and it was exactly as you showed. I made one slight tweak i cooled the bearing in the freezer and warmed the pump body in the oven and then they dropped in with a tap. Great video. Many thanks
Nice vid,....on an I/O even in fresh water only you also need to check your risers and manifolds to make sure the water channels aren't clogged. I also would replace the impeller a lot more frequently if that's what it looks like after 80 hours. It's all that's keeping your engine from becoming a piece of junk, and those missing chunks of rubber don't dissolve either, so if you see that it's time to start looking for them and a good place to start is to follow the outlet hose. You don't need anything restricting the flow of water through the cooling system. Replacing the impeller doesn't take long, probably a half hour,....also I like to use glycerin not soapy water to lube the impeller.
Hey Jim R. Enjoyed your video here. Thanks for posting it. I am troubleshooting an overheating issue on my 3.0 which has the same raw water system as the 5.0. What I found is that I can connect my garden hose to the inlet in the engine compartment and things seem to work pretty darn good. But when I put the muff's on, not so much. Watched another video that put the muff's as the suspect. More testing today. It's Memorial Day Weekend. Just purchased the boat which had a brand new engine installed last fall. Had it on the lake last Monday and everything worked perfect. Back out on Tuesday and she OVERHEATED! :-( Appreciate any advise you may have. Happy Memorial Day! Remember Those That GAVE ALL!!!!!
Good job.... Always try to either vacuum or back flush the discharge hose of that pump to retrieve all those broken pieces of that original impellor as they could be caught in a cooler grid. They do not disolve with time! TY John
Thx! Great video! I paid the dealer to do it this year but plan on doing it myself next time to save some money. I was hoping someone had made a TH-cam video. :-)
Thanks. Great video. When I went to remove the three bolts holding it to the crankshaft pulley, it spun the crankshaft. I was able to remove the bolts and the pump assembly. However, when I go to mount the new one, do I need to align the pulley to the position it was…which I’m not sure what that was. Thanks.
great vid - got stuck halfway when I left pullers at home - plus didnt realize I could take the pulley off! first time - this will def help m esort it 2moro :)
Great video, when I removed the impeller housing I was able to also slide the bearing housing off without removing the pulley from the crankshaft. 2010 Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI. Any idea if this indicates a bigger problem. Once I rebuild will the new bearing and housing slide back on the shaft pulley without removing it from the engine?
Removed my water pump and pulley on my 2007 5.0 GXI and there was lock washers behind the pulley? Were these there for spacers for the serpentine belt? Not sure if it was factory or not I'm guessing not
Hi There, great video! Thanks for sharing, quick question I just did mine, but when put the screws on the water pump to the wheel I can't tighten them because the pump with the 2 tubes is actually in the way. I noticed you can move it around, but when I tighten the first 2 screws, I now I can move it to tighten the last one. Any times on moving the pump to be able to tighten all the bolts? Thx
Thanks!! Great video!. I got a question. I'm buying a 2000 Caravelle 209 with the 5.0 G.I.. What else should I look for before buying?? Thanks again. Also to, How hard is it to change the valve cover gaskets? Cause it looks like the exhaust is in the way..
Hi Jim Great video. I live in Brazil. We dont have the replace parts like you show in the video. Can you inform me where I can buy this parts in USA? The site web. Best Regards
So mine is throwing the grease but I have a steady water leak at the bottom of the pump. Do you think that is just the O ring? I have your kit but I don't wanna replace everything of it's just the O ring...
Looks like the shaft seal is in backwards. I dont think the spring should be facing the impeller. Thanks for the video. Update: I think I might be wrong........
great video. everything is going as directed except that my housing had no keeper ring and the bearing was flush with the housing edge leaving no room for a keeper. Im expecting my kit from amazon tomorrow and am wondering what to do about that.
Easy way to install the impeller is to use a zip tie and simply pull the blades down, then start the install into the housing and slide the zip tie off. You don't need to use soapy water that way.
When I started the engine for the first time after replacement, I got a lot of black soot mixing with the water flowing from the outboard. Is that break in?
Hi. I did this repair and it seems that my front housing is really hot when the motor is running like over 300° by my infrared gauge. This doesn’t sound right to me what would make it gets so hot. Hoses are installed correctly
Nice Video - I have a feeling I will be using this again this week as I bought the rebuild kit, as you did. My boat is 9 years old but only has 160 hours on it. I bought it last year, and now as I put it in the water for the first time this year, it overheated. I assume there is either an air leak or bad impeller, and since I put 40 hours on it last year, I figure its not a terrible idea to just plan on replacing the impeller at the very least.... and planning to replace the bearing either now or next change, depending on what I find when I am in there. Any tips on troubleshooting the suction from the lower unit up to the impeller? Any tricks to know for sure if the impeller is bad or find an air leak? Also, does this have a heat exchange/closed fluid section? Thanks for making the great video on this. (2009 5.0 GXI-J with Duoprop)
So, new to boating and this is going to be my first engine repair. I'm a garage mechanic, so this looks pretty easy. This might sound stupid, but I have a 29' Bayliner that's permanently water-bound. If I disconnect the inlet/outlet hoses, am I going to get a flood of water into my engine bay? Should I pinch off these hoses before I disconnect them? Thanks!
Great video! I was wondering if you could tell me what the hose locations on the impeller. It looks like the top one is the inlet (water source) and the bottom one is the outlet to the thermostat. Is this correct?
Do you have to put the metal spring back into the bearing? I am seeing yours off to the side didn’t know if it is a part that had to be put back on or not
That impeller is missing a lot of rubber, now you need to find the chunks. Don't wait until it looks like that so 80 hours is way too long of duty cycle.
You're spinning the impeller to the right as you insert it. You didn't mention that but the direction is important, right? I mean, if you spun it to the left, would it correct itself when it runs?
I’m wondering, where does this oily trace really come from? Is there any oily fluid in raw water pump?? Could this oily trace come from power steering pump? I have very similar oil trace in my boat and I’m not sure where it comes from.
When your video started you said the dark specks showed signs of tracking. What is causing the black specs,the old bearing or something else in the pump?
My engine won't stop pissing out raw water into my engine hatch I've got two thank God but I don't no what to do plz send me back some advice on how ever will I get this 100.000 $ boat to stop leaking so I can sleep in my home and not worry about my boat sinking
mine is 2002 5.7L and i did not have a snap ring either. also, the bearing was NOT that hard to put in. it slid in without having to bang it with a hammer. its tight in there, but not super tight
I have a Volvo Penta 2001 5.7L GSi PERFS, There is not a C clip holding the bearing in, either. Bearing just pushes out (well, it didn't just push out).
Just buy a brand new volvo penta raw water pump. Usually the impeller housing is scored and worn from this neoprene impeller, causing it not to prime once in awhile. This will cause overheating of the engine and severe damage ,usually a warped head. The whole pump has to come out anyway so buy a whole unit for $300. And if you do buy volvo penta parts, DO NOT BUY FROM MARINE PARTS EXPRESS DOT COM. THEY ARE NOT AN AUTHORIZED VOLVO PENTA DEALER.
Great video. I used a vise to press the new bearing in (protect the rough jaws of the vice); once the bearing was down, I used the old bearing to continue and seat it. Worked out great.
Great video! I freeze the bearing overnight and it almost drops in!
Thank you for helping me keep costs down and keep the boat in the water! Blessings to you!!!
To make my job easier and avoid all the heavy banging on metal I heated the brass part (mine was not painted) before hammering out the old bearing. I put new bearing in freezer overnight then heated the brass part. They slide together with very little light hammering. Then I placed belt pulley in freezer for a couple of hours and when the new bearing was normal temp (I couldn't warm it up) the whole thing slide on to the cold pulley again with a light hammering.
Cheers!
Thanks for the great video. Torque specs are... The 4 small screws are 19 to 24 in. lb. The two large bracket screws are 20 to 25 ft. lb.
Sehr gutes Video, einfach und ruhig erklärt, ohne Blah blah. DANKE - Perfekt
wow, that was one of the best presentations I've ever seen, keep up the good work!
Excellent video, I really appreciate you taking the time to make this well done 'how to guide!'
awesome video! Just completed this repair yesterday. the only thing I did differently, was to use the vise to slowly push the bearing home. ar the end, i used the old bearing to push it home using the vice. thanks for taking the time to put this out there!
What a good video! I did my pump today and it was exactly as you showed. I made one slight tweak i cooled the bearing in the freezer and warmed the pump body in the oven and then they dropped in with a tap. Great video. Many thanks
Nice vid,....on an I/O even in fresh water only you also need to check your risers and manifolds to make sure the water channels aren't clogged. I also would replace the impeller a lot more frequently if that's what it looks like after 80 hours. It's all that's keeping your engine from becoming a piece of junk, and those missing chunks of rubber don't dissolve either, so if you see that it's time to start looking for them and a good place to start is to follow the outlet hose. You don't need anything restricting the flow of water through the cooling system. Replacing the impeller doesn't take long, probably a half hour,....also I like to use glycerin not soapy water to lube the impeller.
Hey Jim R. Enjoyed your video here. Thanks for posting it. I am troubleshooting an overheating issue on my 3.0 which has the same raw water system as the 5.0. What I found is that I can connect my garden hose to the inlet in the engine compartment and things seem to work pretty darn good. But when I put the muff's on, not so much. Watched another video that put the muff's as the suspect. More testing today. It's Memorial Day Weekend. Just purchased the boat which had a brand new engine installed last fall. Had it on the lake last Monday and everything worked perfect. Back out on Tuesday and she OVERHEATED! :-( Appreciate any advise you may have. Happy Memorial Day! Remember Those That GAVE ALL!!!!!
Good job.... Always try to either vacuum or back flush the discharge hose of that pump to retrieve all those broken pieces of that original impellor as they could be caught in a cooler grid. They do not disolve with time! TY John
Absolute Legend Jim 👍 thanks mate 🍻 🍻 🍻
Torque for the 4 bolts that hold the impeller housing in place is only 19 to 25 INCH lbs. per the Volvo Clymer book.
Большое спасибо за видео 👍👍👍😊 желаю удачи вам и здоровья
Thx! Great video! I paid the dealer to do it this year but plan on doing it myself next time to save some money. I was hoping someone had made a TH-cam video. :-)
Great video, mine started leaking yesterday and this has taken the guess work out of the repair.
Thanks. Great video. When I went to remove the three bolts holding it to the crankshaft pulley, it spun the crankshaft. I was able to remove the bolts and the pump assembly. However, when I go to mount the new one, do I need to align the pulley to the position it was…which I’m not sure what that was. Thanks.
Great video, very professional
great vid - got stuck halfway when I left pullers at home - plus didnt realize I could take the pulley off! first time - this will def help m esort it 2moro :)
Great video, when I removed the impeller housing I was able to also slide the bearing housing off without removing the pulley from the crankshaft. 2010 Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI. Any idea if this indicates a bigger problem. Once I rebuild will the new bearing and housing slide back on the shaft pulley without removing it from the engine?
Thanks Jim. This video is very helpful.
Very thorough...thank you. I’ll be doing the same project this month.
Excellent video. Make rebuilding my pump a breeze!
Great video! Very helpful. i will refer to this video when i replace my impeller
Removed my water pump and pulley on my 2007 5.0 GXI and there was lock washers behind the pulley? Were these there for spacers for the serpentine belt? Not sure if it was factory or not I'm guessing not
Excellent video, very professional. Thank you
Hi There, great video! Thanks for sharing, quick question I just did mine, but when put the screws on the water pump to the wheel I can't tighten them because the pump with the 2 tubes is actually in the way. I noticed you can move it around, but when I tighten the first 2 screws, I now I can move it to tighten the last one. Any times on moving the pump to be able to tighten all the bolts? Thx
Great video! Do you have the article number for that ball bearing?
Thanks!! Great video!. I got a question. I'm buying a 2000 Caravelle 209 with the 5.0 G.I.. What else should I look for before buying?? Thanks again. Also to, How hard is it to change the valve cover gaskets? Cause it looks like the exhaust is in the way..
How did you know that the bearings have to be replaced?...What were your symptoms?
Great Video! Thanks for sharing!
what is it about the tracking that indicates the pump needs rebuilt?
Priceless boat repair/maintenance DIY video.
Hi Jim
Great video. I live in Brazil. We dont have the replace parts like you show in the video. Can you inform me where I can buy this parts in USA? The site web. Best Regards
Lighthouse Marine Supply, Riverhead, NY
My water pump doesn't spin and makes a grinding sound. Will I have to replace my bearings?
Where did you get the bearing puller? I borrowed a 3 prong one from Autozone but it doesnt fit correctly.....
So mine is throwing the grease but I have a steady water leak at the bottom of the pump. Do you think that is just the O ring? I have your kit but I don't wanna replace everything of it's just the O ring...
Which hoses go on top and the bottom? The hose in which I am able to add water to my boat, does this go on the top or bottom?
Que falla hace si la bomba oh empeller no esta trabajando?
Is it not recommended to use any kind of silicon or vaseline on the shaft real?
Looks like the shaft seal is in backwards. I dont think the spring should be facing the impeller. Thanks for the video.
Update: I think I might be wrong........
great video. everything is going as directed except that my housing had no keeper ring and the bearing was flush with the housing edge leaving no room for a keeper. Im expecting my kit from amazon tomorrow and am wondering what to do about that.
Robert Gorgol, I have the same issue in my Volvo Penta 8.1. I found that the oil cooler was leaking from the hose.
Great video. I just found out mine is peeing water so I guess it is time for a rebuild as well. Thanks>
Great video! Thanks
Easy way to install the impeller is to use a zip tie and simply pull the blades down, then start the install into the housing and slide the zip tie off. You don't need to use soapy water that way.
ckhallock88 great idea, change mine on my 4.3 yearly and that would definitely be easier. 👍😎
Have you ever had a leak where the hoses slide on? What would be the fix?
When I started the engine for the first time after replacement, I got a lot of black soot mixing with the water flowing from the outboard. Is that break in?
Hi. I did this repair and it seems that my front housing is really hot when the motor is running like over 300° by my infrared gauge. This doesn’t sound right to me what would make it gets so hot. Hoses are installed correctly
Great job and video. What bearing puller did you use? Where to get one like it? Thanks.
After 7:10. Does the wheel spin freely or is it hard to spin?
Awesome video, thanks so much for sharing!
Awesome video thanks for sharing
Nice Video - I have a feeling I will be using this again this week as I bought the rebuild kit, as you did. My boat is 9 years old but only has 160 hours on it. I bought it last year, and now as I put it in the water for the first time this year, it overheated. I assume there is either an air leak or bad impeller, and since I put 40 hours on it last year, I figure its not a terrible idea to just plan on replacing the impeller at the very least.... and planning to replace the bearing either now or next change, depending on what I find when I am in there. Any tips on troubleshooting the suction from the lower unit up to the impeller? Any tricks to know for sure if the impeller is bad or find an air leak? Also, does this have a heat exchange/closed fluid section? Thanks for making the great video on this. (2009 5.0 GXI-J with Duoprop)
Great video.. How often should the impeller be replaced
So, new to boating and this is going to be my first engine repair.
I'm a garage mechanic, so this looks pretty easy. This might sound stupid, but I have a 29' Bayliner that's permanently water-bound. If I disconnect the inlet/outlet hoses, am I going to get a flood of water into my engine bay? Should I pinch off these hoses before I disconnect them?
Thanks!
I just did the same and if your in the water you will get water in from the hoses! plug the hoses some how
@@MrLeecromwell What did you use to plug hoses? This job looks easy after solving for that
Great video! I was wondering if you could tell me what the hose locations on the impeller. It looks like the top one is the inlet (water source) and the bottom one is the outlet to the thermostat. Is this correct?
Daniel, did you find out which one was the inlet and outlet?? I am just in the same situation :(
@@alainmurray4159 sorry about the late reply but I had it correct. Top one is the water source-inlet. Bottom one to thermostat
@@danielcazares7358 thank you very much. I already found it. Had to change the pump itself
Can you use vises to squeeze bering into the housing?
Good job buddy
Do you have to put the metal spring back into the bearing? I am seeing yours off to the side didn’t know if it is a part that had to be put back on or not
Yes it needs to be in
Thank you for such a great video.
Bearing seems to be a 60062RSC3 Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 30x55x13mm
That impeller is missing a lot of rubber, now you need to find the chunks. Don't wait until it looks like that so 80 hours is way too long of duty cycle.
You're spinning the impeller to the right as you insert it. You didn't mention that but the direction is important, right? I mean, if you spun it to the left, would it correct itself when it runs?
Karen Kardas Yes, it will correct itself.
I’m wondering, where does this oily trace really come from? Is there any oily fluid in raw water pump?? Could this oily trace come from power steering pump? I have very similar oil trace in my boat and I’m not sure where it comes from.
It's from the belt slinging water
Nice information in your video thanks
Great video! Very informative! Thank you!
i have a volvo 5.7 94 model if you know could you please tell me where the impeller is the water pump looks like one out of a chevorlet pick up!! lol
Great vid! thanks for the info.
Thank for the video.
When your video started you said the dark specks showed signs of tracking. What is causing the black specs,the old bearing or something else in the pump?
The pump leaks and the water spews in a circular pattern from the pulley.
David Robinson thanks
Once the pump sprays salt water everywhere, the pulleys rust and start wearing the belt. That's where the black soot comes from.
My engine won't stop pissing out raw water into my engine hatch I've got two thank God but I don't no what to do plz send me back some advice on how ever will I get this 100.000 $ boat to stop leaking so I can sleep in my home and not worry about my boat sinking
Did you change the raw water pump. Thats the reason its spitting. I know your post is 2 years old
What size allen wrench?
My housing did not have a snap ring on it. Could this have been missed at the factory? I have owned this boat since new.
1974charger123 mine don't have one either and my new bearing not tight in new housing is yours that way. don't even look like a place for a snap ring
Mine is the same exact way. Does not look correct.
mine is 2002 5.7L and i did not have a snap ring either. also, the bearing was NOT that hard to put in. it slid in without having to bang it with a hammer. its tight in there, but not super tight
same here. no snap ring and super easy to slide in. all works well
I have a Volvo Penta 2001 5.7L GSi PERFS, There is not a C clip holding the bearing in, either. Bearing just pushes out (well, it didn't just push out).
Hello Could you send me the link for this kit, please ?
dang..only 80 hours of use. WTH?
I have a problem with my boat, water goes to the motor oil but i don't know where it comes from the pump or from the head.
water in your oil isn't from the water pump. Its either manifold or riser leak or head gasket
Screw's, a screw is a screw until you put a nut on it then its a bolt
So replace ever 80 hours that's every year I guess I need to do mine I have 200 hours and I think it's original
What size socket takes that bracket off
That's what I'm looking for
A 9/16" socket worked for mine.
hi there this pump have one position
mine has no retainer ring groove
8.2GSI
Im using Avasva instructions to make it and I do it already :)
Just buy a brand new volvo penta raw water pump. Usually the impeller housing is scored and worn from this neoprene impeller, causing it not to prime once in awhile. This will cause overheating of the engine and severe damage ,usually a warped head.
The whole pump has to come out anyway so buy a whole unit for $300. And if you do buy volvo penta parts, DO NOT BUY FROM MARINE PARTS EXPRESS DOT COM. THEY ARE NOT AN AUTHORIZED VOLVO PENTA DEALER.