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Volvo Penta steering actuator removal step by step
Shows step by step how to remove a Volvo Penta boat power steering actuator ram, which is notoriously prone to developing seal leaks. Shown on a year 2000 4.3GL motor, process is similar for many years and models. Thanks to Wayne the Boat Guy who goes over further background and gave me the courage to try doing this myself versus waiting for a shop to be available. In the next video I will disassemble the actuator (thanks phamasite and The Hull Truth for the postings on this) to see if I can fix the leak.
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ความคิดเห็น

  • @jimriseborough
    @jimriseborough หลายเดือนก่อน

    If replacing the cylinder, what part would be used? I see the Volvo part has opposite fittings for the hoses, Does that matter?

  • @Jaylightsitup
    @Jaylightsitup 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thanks for this video

  • @AchikSarih
    @AchikSarih 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

  • @m1garandpatton
    @m1garandpatton 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    2008 Monterey 194fs First Im going to use hairpins instead of cotter pins when I replace. Hardest was the big bolt on the bottom to remove the cotter pin. After a lot of trying to punch it through finally grabbed the loop of the cotter with a punch and tried to wedge it out and my biggest fear was realized and it broke in half. This is after 3 mo of working on it off and on. Then I got an angle drill with chuck {drill attachment} from Harbor freight with a 1/8th bit and grilled it completely out in about 5 min. Used the next size bigger bit to clean it out. Still Had some bits of the aluminum cotter pin when the bolt came out but did not get in the threads unscrewing it. Probably more an issue crewing it in having pieces of the pin in there. I had to cut the big pin in half that attaches to the transom with a sawzall. It was still stuck at the bottom so I had to cut it below the transom attachment. Finally got the actuator out and had to punch the rest of the pin out with a hammer. Not sure why it was stuck. I will probably get longer pins to replace all of them. Sent to 5 star Marine to rebuild. Replacing the hydraulic pump when I install the actuator. It was making noise.

  • @jasonbeasley5766
    @jasonbeasley5766 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for creating this video. This was very helpful as I prepared (dreaded) to remove the steering actuator in my boat recently!

  • @chuckrhyne4422
    @chuckrhyne4422 ปีที่แล้ว

    Could i use hairpins instead of cotter pins? Way easier to install.

    • @m1garandpatton
      @m1garandpatton 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      That is what Im doing.

    • @m1garandpatton
      @m1garandpatton 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I used hairpins for the pins and did not use any pins on the bolts. Bolts are pretty tight. Im going to keep my eye on them. Everything is working perfect. Also 5 Star Marine said use AW32 Hydraulic Fluid for the Volvo Penta

  • @chuckrhyne4422
    @chuckrhyne4422 ปีที่แล้ว

    Dude. Thanks for this. Took me 3 hours but I couldn't have done it without this video. And for the record Id rather get a root canal with no anesthesia while listening to mumble rap than do this again. You're my hero.

  • @christopherribault9564
    @christopherribault9564 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    hello friends, great job where did you find the gasket reconstruction kit?

    • @baxtrudy
      @baxtrudy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi. Personally I chickened out and sent the whole actuator to Five Star Marine in Florida. And it’s been running well all season so far. Chris Moore commented below that he bought a rebuild seal kit from “O-Rings and Things” for $10 and had a hydraulic shop near him install them for $20 labor. Which sounds to me like a great way to go for minimizing cost.

  • @brian395
    @brian395 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have same boat and I was told there's a grease fitting on that steering actuator is there actually one there or was I told wrong

    • @baxtrudy
      @baxtrudy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      There’s no zerc on mine at least. I did grease the pivot bolts when I put them back. All all good so far this season!

  • @yomo40
    @yomo40 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    do you have the next video? got it out thanks to you, would rather put in orings for 60$ than 450 rebuild

    • @jeffkrietemeyer1570
      @jeffkrietemeyer1570 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi. Installation was way easier than removal so I didn’t video it. I did pay a rebuild service for doing the seals, I also was tempted to do the seals myself, but figured with all the sweat involved in removing it, that I would pay a shop for the seals. There is another TH-cam video already describing the rebuild. Good luck!

    • @yomo40
      @yomo40 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jeffkrietemeyer1570 Thanks, I"m probably going to try a hydraulic shop to put the seal in, others have said a shop put it in for them cheap and easy.

    • @yomo40
      @yomo40 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I did have a hydraulic shop put it on for 20 dollars, 10 dollars for kit from orings and things. 30 dollars instead of 950 dollars for new actuator. Thanks for the video it really helped

    • @baxtrudy
      @baxtrudy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@yomo40 thanks for the followup comment that this less expensive approach worked!

  • @GatesRapes
    @GatesRapes 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank You for the video, same issue here on a LSR 1900

  • @etchhead
    @etchhead 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This went out on me this year- pricy!!

    • @GatesRapes
      @GatesRapes 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      And a pain to get off, stubby air ratchet would make it easier

  • @johnk12345100
    @johnk12345100 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Man this is an excellent excellent video thank you

  • @YooooouKnowwwww
    @YooooouKnowwwww 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks for the vid, it was very very helpful!

  • @Luigi-pk8mk
    @Luigi-pk8mk 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just did mine on my 1988 OMC Cobra, same engine as yours. I removed both exhaust manuifolds with the elbows still attached and then had good access. The hardest part were the 4 cotter pins, one on each bolt that holds it to the transom and the smaller ones for the steeing arm and steeing cable. The bottom bolt on the actuator is a little hard to get at but I was able to get it off. My actuator is the older style Bendix one with the seperate control valve that is actually rebuildable, parts are available because the same unit was used on older Corvettes and Mustangs, among other cars. On those both the control valve and hydraulic cylinder can be rebuilt. Yours is the newer style that started being used in about 1990.

    • @baxtrudy
      @baxtrudy 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      It’s probably the first time my boat gets referred to as the newer kind :-). Glad to hear yours was rebuildable at home.

  • @maryroysturwold915
    @maryroysturwold915 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great job!

  • @williamsecor7745
    @williamsecor7745 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    very nice. This has no particular religious significance but it's very well executed, pretty and fun to look at and sounds great. Thanks for your work on this.