My dear sir, I want to thank you, your wife and all of those who put so much into making these videos. The information is excellent, but your passion for the subjects and you belief that we can make the world a little better by adding just a little refinement to our lives is what I find so inspiring. Thank you for sharing your passion with us.
Excellent explanation Sonya, I closely observe and practice yours and Hugo's guidelines while getting dressed up and recently getting quite good compliments about it. Thank you and Hugo for making us realize how important is to dressed up elegantly. I am huge fan of your and Hugo's sophistication, elegance and above all modesty. Love you guys, keep up the good work.
Your comment about being modest is especially important to us. Thank you so much for watching, following, and taking the time to comment. As ever, Sonya and Hugo
Please continue to release the excellent content you’ve all been releasing. Very informative and inspiring to people of all different walks of life and ages.
Aghh...the best, clearest, and most complete explanation I've ever heard on the subject.. THANK YOU!! Finally, someone really clarifies. My neighbor was a clothing buyer for Nordstrom's out in SF in the 70's. Even her explanation left me...lol....almost in tears from frustration as the rules seem to change from minute to minute. So thank you for really nailing this one.
wow! the elegant couple with 2 videos in one week !! how lucky we are)))), nice to see you again sonia with this very nice educational video, thanks for your effort, love from Cairo, Egypt.
I just bought a pure cashmere Navy blazer from Suit Supply; the fabric is from an Italian mill called Colombo; I can’t wait to wear it this fall and winter; it’s definitely my favorite blazer in my collection thus far.
I'm really a big fan of you and your husband. I have binged on your videos. Initially I figured you would be the uppity type but having watched your videos, you both come across as extremely knowledgeable and very relatable people. Also I watched a video on your faith and that makes you guys even more appealing. Please keep up the great work.
I really love this channel and personaly I would love you to record some videos to explain the jackets you’ve mentioned before (hacking jacket, maybe shooting jacket, ecc). As a british menswear lover it would be amazing. My best regards!
Good explanation on the blazer! I had never heard of the Hacking Jacket, so I learned something new. I tended to confuse the sports coat and the blazer! Was wondering if you could do a IVY League - Fall sytle article if possible. Keep up the excellent work!
Thank you so much. Hugo helped me with my presentation skills by teaching me to channel what I already know, instead of trying to prepare-and-present. Your comment is much appreciated, ~Sonya
Seems like 20 years ago (?) we started to see blue blazers but with ordinary buttons. It's a good look you see often. What kinds of buttons do you recommend?
Thanks for all you do :) I’d love to hear more about wearing suit coats as odd jackets. I’ve heard some “rules” regarding patterns on the jacket (pinstripes often being mentioned) or materials that make them not appropriate for wear as an odd jacket, but I’d love to hear more on the subject! Cheers!
If a suit coat is a solid blue (or rarely bottle green or red) and the buttons are changed to metal buttons or pearl type buttons, maybe you could use it as a blazer. If the suit coat is made of a fabric which is often crafted alone as a sport coat (in a strong pattern or tweed, for example), then why not. If you adapt a suit coat to become a sports coat, make sure it's made of a fabric which you would not hesitate to craft alone as a sports coat. Thanks, ~Sonya
First I want to say how much I love your videos! Would you possibly be able to do a video on the different types of ties and pocket(as well as knots) squares and where they came from? I learnt so much from your edition on shoes, so I wanted to ask. All the best, James
As always, a great description of the different jacket types. In a previous video, Hugo has spoken of the three piece suit. Could either of you discuss the odd vest (waistcoat) and its use in a suit, such as where appropriate, how to match the rest of the suit, etc? Thanks.
Hi William and thanks for the suggestion! Meanwhile, you can read the short piece "Ditto Suits? Selecting Your Waistcoat Fabric" on Parisian Gentleman (a piece I wrote in 2014) and see what you think! Cheers! Sonya
Sonya N I deeply enjoy sartorial talks. You have such a charming voice and gaze that reflect this is really your passion. I am truly looking forward to the next video.
Thamk you sonya and Hugo once again a truly wonderful Video that you have shared with us once again, please keep up the fantastic work, i fore one am imencely grateful, thank you so much, Your friend Ryan.
Thank you, the shirt is from Marol in Bologna, Italy (with a Marlene Dietrich collar)---I wish I'd done a better job tucking it in, ha! Appreciate the comment. Cheers! ~Sonya
Thank you, like many I assume I have been using jacket and coat a little too interchangeably and incorrectly. I guess I have to stop saying suit jacket and odd jacket. I stand gratefully corrected.
HI Sonya, I live in India and I don't think that sports coats are in fashion here or also not available for sale. Can you suggest a few reasonable brands which manufacture sports coat so that I can browse their websites and then come to a conclusion.
I've seen tweed jackets for sale under the title "hacking jackets" and now I know where they got their name. Thank you Sonya for your explanation! I love the Norfolk jacket!
So wearing a sport coat doesn't match with the trousers. But are its proportions the same as a suit jacket? I've heard the sport jacket had to be shorter (I mean its length) than a suit jacket? Is that right? Or then is it possible to make of a suit jacket a coat jacket only by wearing it with trousers that don't match? Thanks anyway!
Sonya you have been very clear and charming in your explanation, I'd like to see you watching the camera at the end. It would feel more personal because when you invite your followers to comment... congrats S&H!
wow. so insightful. i have so much more ot learn about men's wear. thank you for putting out such great content. is there a similar way how to diferentiate trousers? i think so, but i'm not sure. so a video about that would also be nice :) keep up the good work
Hello Nejc, I've only heard trousers differentiated as suit trousers, odd trousers or separates, but I will try to find out more just in case I can add to the explanation. Thank you, ~Sonya
I most appreciate examples of different types of jackets. It gives me more to examine and see what best fits my style. I am still confused about the distinction between a coat and a jacket. From the definition given by G. Bruce Boyer, it sounds like this garment can shift terms. For example, does a suit coat become a suit jacket if you exchange a tailored dress shirt for a non-tailored one?
Hi Daniel. Funny but I had the identical first thought when I read Bruce's first point. But he is referring to an overcoat on top of a suit coat, sports coat, blazer or jacket---meaning that it would be strange to refer to an overcoat as a jacket. Cheers! ~Sonya
Great video Sonya,.you has cracked the blazer jargon..i assume that a Jackets and sport coats are very much the same both started out as active events garments
Sonya, am I wrong to assume that blazers always come in the color of navy blue and generally follow a simple structure? Also, do modern blazers actually come with some sort of emblem in their buttons (or some place else)?
When I was a kid, my dad owned a pub in the Midlands, England. An old fella (fought in both WWs) told me that after WW1, vets could not find work and that some became bell hops, lift attendance, etc in hotels as it was the only work they could get. They were told to dress smart and all they had was the 1ns or 2s dress from their time in the military. Hence the fashion for this dress code now in "good" hotels. Not checked if it is true but is a good story. What an excellent old gent (ex 0fficer) by the way, told me stories about Laurance of Arabia and all sorts, by the fireplace when on school holidays, don't find then much now.
Hi, in regard to a suit coat and sports coat, it really depends on the cut you prefer---a cut that follows the silhouette or a looser cut that portrays more of a Hollywood Golden Era vibe. I believe the cut for a tuxedo adheres to more universal codes of a good fit and other factors (see the article What Should the Groom Wear on Parisian Gentleman). Thank you, ~Sonya
Very nice explanations about the topic but if it is possible to put an image from every kind of topic that would perfect generally. for example suit coat vs sport coat. And if you can do a video spesifically about different kind of coats i would love to watch and learn something new about sartorial world:)
With the definition of Suit and Sport Coats being so similar -- namely that a suit coat matches suit trousers and a sport coat is an odd coat -- is it appropriate to wear a suit coat as a separate/odd coat? or is there a further distinction between suit and sport coats than merely matching versus odd?
Hi Joseph. This is a reoccurring question and to feel confident in reviving an orphaned suit coat, you must make sure it is convincing as a blazer (solid blue or rarely bottle green or red) and the buttons are changed to be emblazoned metal buttons or pearl buttons with a shine. The other option is to determine if the fabric on the suit coat is a fabric you would consider using for an odd coat or not (e.g., does the fabric have a fairly strong pattern or is it made of tweed or with a fabric that has texture--if yes, it's possible that the suit coat could be translated into an odd coat). Thanks for your question, ~Sonya
Thank you for the reply Sonya and for the helpful videos. In the second option a change of buttons would not be required? A tweed suit coat should be relatively similar to an odd coat for instance? again, thank you for your help!
That's what I've been wanting to know too! I have an SR's signature octagonal designed deep royal blue navy with a sheen, but I don't have a matching pant. So I do wear on occasion with a deep brown pant (from Armani) and dress it with a pair of caramel color (A.Testoni - bologna-goodyear) wingtip shoes. And I have been thinking about working for a while now - I've been hiatus for almost 2 years now, and I start to get extremely bored.
After you buy your first suit, if you are not able to buy another jacket, I would recommend you that you purchase a waistcoat (vest) that you can wear with your trousers (without the coat) a day or two a week--in order to allow your only jacket to breathe and rest at least a few days a week. The floating canvas inside the jacket occasionally needs to rest and recover to perform well (and to smell nice:) Otherwise if you're able, when you get home, hang your jacket up immediately near an open window to allow it to rest. ~Sonya
Would you also say suit jackets are typically longer in length? I go thrift shopping quite often, and I usually make the distinction between a suit jacket and sports jacket based on the length, colour and formality of the fabric. I find suit jackets or "orphan" jackets usually longer, darker blue/charcoal, no pattern, and made of a worsted wool. Great blazer explanation by the way.
Suit coats are made in all different lengths to accommodate different stye preferences, morphology, and crafter decisions, worsted wool indeed is a common raw material for the suit coat (as well as solid colors, with the exception of the blazer of course). In Italy, you may see men wearing shorter suit coats while in England men can be fussy about their suit coat "just covering" their backside. Fashion houses try to make "a statement" with very short or very long suit coats sometimes---so lengths vary! Thanks for asking! ~Sonya
It's very nice of you for the warning that this will be confusing, because it did confuse me! Haha. So, based on your explanation, a suit coat worn separately with different trousers is still counts as a "suit coat" not a blazer? What about an odd jacket with a very formal cut, colour, and fabric, yet lacks the blazed buttons or chest crest? Does it still counts as a blazer or just an odd jacket?
Asked like a pro! Yes a suit coat worn separately remains a suit coat (just worn as a sport coat--like not a blazer unless it's blue, bottle green or red). A blazer can have shiny buttons instead of emblazoned metal buttons (similar to pearl buttons on some Cifonelli blazers), but may not fit the "traditional explanation" of a blazer. ~Sonya
I have been thinking about a Norfolk jacket (I like the British country clothing for being both stylish and practical) but being a 30-years-old IT engineer living in a central European city where nobody wears such clothes, I would not want to look like coming from a different country and century. What would you suggest to pair it with for a more contemporary look? Could it work with a pair of black moleskin jeans or chinos and derby boots?
After giving your question some thought, I believe your idea about pairing-down the Norfolk with black moleskin jeans would work. But as you said, an especially excellent pair of shoes would be a must. If you try it out, send us a photo on Instagram at @sonyaglyn ! Cheers ! ~Sonya & Hugo
Thank you so much for this channel. Being from a rural part of Georgia I never had to opportunity to learn about nice clothes. Do you have a store in Atlanta?
We don't have a store, although we curate the best menswear products we can find and offer sales on the website "Parisian Gentleman" from time to time in limited editions. Right now you can go to Cobbler Union's Website, order a pair of shoes and enter the code PGCU10 to get 10 percent off, free shoe trees and free shipping on some of the most solid and well curated ready to wear shoes out there. Made in Spain with a flagship store in Atlanta, GA. Cheers! ~Sonya
Hi Daniel, I have traveled to Alaska twice and even done some dirt biking in Fairbanks.I'm glad to know of your interest in sartorial matters in this fascinating state! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS seeing that you replied has made my day! And I hope you liked Alaska, it can be a very interesting state haha. Keep up the amazing videos! It's because you you that I changed the way I dress! Thanks for all that you do Daniel
Sooo... Does an orphaned suit jacket automatically become a sport jacket or not. And if not, why? I've read numerous times, that one can tell one from the other, and I think I somewhat know what's meant by that. However, I can't put my finger on it. Maybe, you or Hugo can help. Thanks in advance. :) Greetings from Germany!
Greetings form Bourgogne! I have revised my answer with more thought---since there is so much interest in the question : An orphaned suit coat may be worn as a sports coat if you could imagine it being crafted alone as a sports coat (in a stronger pattern or in tweed for example) or a blazer if the buttons are changed to metal or pearl buttons (if it's blue, or in rare instances bottle green or red). ~Sonya
I believe a brown tweed jacket may be the most versatile bet during fall and winter for your purposes, and a navy blue blazer made with hopsack, or a wool/silk textured blend with pewter metal buttons (to yield a better formality range) would be a versatile bet for spring and summer! Thanks for the question. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much Sonya for taking your time to answer my question, and also get into such a detail ! Love your channel ! I am looking forward to watching your videos ! You have made me want to buy my first suit and gradually build my wardrobe ! I am 24 years old, and it will take a little time to i save up, to get a full canvas suit. With regards, Thanos
Is it alright to wear a deep rich blue navy sport coats (I prefer to call it jacket) and a deep brown pant and wear it with a pair of caramel color wingtip shoes as business attire?
Absolutely, a navy blazer should work well with the suggested ensemble---although the most classic combination with be a navy blazer with (very) light gray, beige or white wool trousers. Ideally the navy blazer would have metal buttons or mother of pearl shiny buttons, but these days you can use your own discretion and be creative with the buttons, if you like. Cheers! ~Sonya
So can a suit coat become a sport coat if you just wear it with a different color trouser? And I'm assuming the difference between a blazer and a suit coat is that the suit coat doesn't have "emblazoned" buttons on it?
Hi Scott, A blazer is usually solid blue like in the illustration with emblazoned or at least shiny buttons (rarely it may be bottle green or red, or another possibility is a striped Rowing Blazer). You should be safe using a suit coat as a sports coat only IF you would consider buying this suit coat alone without the trousers. Typically a sports coat is either patterned or texturized, e.g., tweed. I can say with confidence that a worsted wool solid colored suit coat will not pass for a sports coat. I hope this answers your question. Cheers! Sonya
Hi Scott, A blazer is usually solid blue like in the illustration with emblazoned or at least shiny buttons (rarely it may be bottle green or red, or another possibility is a striped Rowing Blazer). You should be safe using a suit coat as a sports coat only IF you would consider buying this suit coat alone without the trousers. Typically a sports coat is either patterned or texturized, e.g., tweed. I can say with confidence that a worsted wool solid colored suit coat will not pass for a sports coat. I hope this answers your question. Cheers! Sonya
Ah okay I see the difference between the suit coat and sport coat now. But I still don't get the difference between the blazer and a suit coat. If I have a solid blue blazer and a solid blue suit coat side by side each other, is the only main difference going to be that the blazer one has emblazoned buttons on it whereas the suit coat one doesn't? Thanks again!
According to Wikipedia, the word "blazer" is actually a Cambridge invention, referring initially to the scarlet jackets of the Lady Margaret Boat Club circa. 1825 i.e. blaze red which are still worn today with varying cuts, button styles. In contemporary terms the blazer of today sits between the sports jack and the dress or suit jacket in terms of formality and is usually blue and can be dressed up and down with slacks, chinos or jeans. The blue blazer is the one jacket all men should own.
So just a fun question where I'd like to target the signature look of Karl Lagerfeld who very often combines an unbuttoned suit jacket with some sort of skinny cut jeans, usually, at least the jackets are Dior Homme, the jeans I'm not sure about. Since I really like this look myself I was wondering - if the suit jacket is not too formal (would it still be one then?), is it legitimate to wear it in combination with different fabric or would that appear too pretentious or even as a faux pas when you're not specifically Monsieur Lagerfeld himself at that day? Worth mentioning that I love the detachable collars he's wearing, but that seems to be no longer a thing, does it? Would love to hear your thoughts on this! Thanks for that great video!
Basically you can do anything you like if you find it aesthetically pleasing. But if you're running in sartorial circles who are highly educated on traditional suiting, then stick to the rules and wear a suit coat with the trousers which were crafted to be paired with the suit coat. However, if your company has no clue nor cares about suiting, then go for it. Really, either way it's your choice and based on your intuitive inclination. In regard to detachable collars, they are always in style if you want them to be. Thanks for your comment! ~Sonya
A signature look is just like a signature - it is never appropriate to use someone else's. It usually ends up looking like cosplay. Besides that, a signature, while usually similar to your handwriting, is often unreadable, so if you were writing like that all the time, nobody would understand what you wrote. So while it is OK to get creative with your signature, you still want to be able to write a readable text. Same applies to clothes - it is OK to wear something unique to you (for example, I always wear high-top shoes, from sneakers to leather boots), but your style should still be "readable" - people should still understand why are you wearing what you are wearing (unless you are an 84-years-old fashion designer and do not have to give a damn about what people think about you.)
snoflake it is primarily about balance. I do weightlifting and the bigger legs you have, the bigger shoes you need, otherwise you would look ridiculous (just like you would with skinny legs and big shoes.) Also, I do not like to show my socks, but that is purely a matter of personal style and taste.
Hi Sonya, this certainly helps! I would be thankful if you could explain what a "lounge suit" is, and could we use a smoking jacket for the same occasion as the "lounge suit"? Also, can a smoking jacket be made from any other fabric apart from velvet? Many thanks.
Nice suggestion for an upcoming episode (next year since we recorded future episodes just last week!). Thank you and please keep the suggestions coming. ~Sonya
To expand on your question, the term "lounge suit" surfaced in the early 1900s when frock coats, morning suits, and even sometimes top hats were the norm; thus a "regular suit" design was deemed useful for lounging around the house, hotel or vacation spot. The term "lounge suit" stuck around and now it just means a standard suit, typically single breasted with a notch lapel. A smoking jacket and a dinner jacket are terms that are typically interchanged---and used for semi-formal occasions, sometimes in place of a tuxedo. Cheers! ~Sonya
So I got a suit, and I want to mix the coat of that suit with another pair of trousers. Despite being the same coat, would you call the coat differently according to trousers I am wearing? Would you call it a suit coat when I am wearing the matching suit trousers and a sports coat if I was wearing jeans with it instead (for example)? By the way, is it okay to mix suit coats with jeans? .... I am a bit confused! Many thanks in advance and great video once again :)
Hi João, Your question is a reoccurring question here. Once a suit coat always a suit coat...but if the suit coat is made of tweed or other texturized fabric, or has a defined pattern, the suit coat has the possibility of doubling as a sports coat. The simple question to ask yourself is: would you ever buy this suit coat as a sports coat without trousers, or not. If the answer is yes, then by all means use your suit coat as a sports coat. In the future, think ahead before you buy your next suit (and peek at the sports coats section in a store). Once you become familiar with a wide range of sports coats, then you can buy a suit with a suit coat that more easily doubles as both suit and sports coat. Some sports coats are mild enough in design and texture to add matching trousers, but the majority of the time, this approach won't work because sports coats are too bold or texturized to have matching trousers. Still, it's a clever approach if you can pull it off! I hope you follow the logic. Cheers, ~Sonya
Sonya N Just last week I bought what was purportedly a “blazer” from a high end used clothing shop. After this video, I now know it was misidentified. Black, nothing emblazoned, and fits more in your definition of a suit coat. Had hoped to wear it with gray pants in a casual setting for a night at the pub. Oh well, live and learn! Thank you.
@@mercerville1111 What you have is probably a simple black sports coat, and if it looks good with the gray trousers, then it should be fine. There are a lot of supposed professionals who think the terms Blazer and sports coat are interchangeable, as they are both jackets that are not part of a suit of clothes.
Cifonelli Paris likes to put pearl buttons on their blazers and they look perfectly nice. Shiny buttons retain the spirit of the blazer, even if they're not metal, IMO. ~Sonya
Thanks for the explanation, but sadly in some parts of the world it could be useful to include terms in other languages as well (especially in German).
Please tell about the Indian wedding what I wear a dress suit or blazer which kind of in Indian wedding please help me I am new on your channel thank you
Please see my article on Parisian Gentleman, "What the Groom Should Wear" (and find your section). Also see my article entitled "The Mao suit and the Nehru jacket". Cheers! ~Sonya
Great as always, my only comment would be about the Norfolk shooting jacket, you would get shot in the county if you didn't pronounce if Norfuck. Please keep up the great work.
Well, that's still a bit complicated because, after all, these different terms refer to items which are quite similar in design: buttons, lapels, pockets around hips, breast pocket etc. In my mother tongue - Polish - there is a single word for all these. The word is "marynarka" and even if you don't speak Polish, you can probably see a marine reference in the name. Arguably, it makes life far more easier to have one single term but, I admit, the differentiation of these terms in English forces to see different aspects of the garment.
This is the first time I've heard "Marynarka" and I'm very happy to know the term, thank you. Yes I agree, the English are happy to complicate things. But like it or not, the roots of the suit are derived from the English! ~Sonya
My blue blazer does not have the brass buttons, but instead has typical dark buttons instead. I wear it with slacks for times when I want a slight dressy look but do not want to wear a full suit. I think the toned down look of the blue blazer (with dark buttons) gives a nice semi-dress look that does not scream look at me, which I prefer. Any thoughts on a blue blazer with dark buttons?
Hi Mario. I'm guessing that your blazer was once a suit coat (but not sure)? Either way, If you prefer to use a blazer without emblazoned buttons, I would suggest you consider changing the buttons to pearlized buttons or high quality shinier buttons. Cifonelli Paris once made a blazer for me with dark blue solid pearl buttons, which looked great. Or use buttons with a shine or sheen to them--it's more convincing (to qualify as a blazer) in my opinion. Thanks for commenting and for watching! Cheers! ~Sonya
I really like your suggestion of pearlized buttons on a blazer. I feel brass buttons are a bit too much for me, but that is a personal preference. I did buy the blazer with brass buttons in Italy when I would travel to Europe on business years ago, and had it changed to the traditional dark buttons. Thank you so much for your suggestion, it's perfect!
I've seen it done---but I suppose you have to have a unique natural style to pull of the look. Ask your instincts and see what they tell you. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 thanks alot... yes i like it i always do this if i like to wear something and feel good then i go for it.. now after your statement im stick with this rule thank you soo much you both are really nice hugo and you... deadly combo... one of the best.. cheers
Absolutely, a Blazer, particularly when paired with white, beige or very light gray trousers can be among the best of choices for occasions which require a "dressed-up" look. Cheers! ~Sonya
I believe the blue blazer with metal buttons for year round wear, along with a brown tweed sports coat for almost any other occasion (during cooler weather---a brown linen/silk for summer). But this is only my opinion based on my own experience in the business of menswear. Cheers! ~Sonya
A great video, as always, but I have to be a contrarian. It appears that a somewhat raging debate exists over the term "blazer" as it relates to buttons in menswear. I recently had a custom blazer made, and I chose horn buttons (as opposed to emblazoned metallic buttons), adding an interesting lining, and working button holes. For many years, I wore metal buttons on my blazers; but I'm old enough now that I wanted to do something different. My last blazer had my graduate school buttons on it (which were given to me by a loved one). The buttons, and the blazer were damaged by a dry cleaner (which is the reason I went shopping to start with). However, that is a sad tale for another day. In any case, I enjoy the new horn button look. It seems very modern and understated. I'm not prepared to call the thing a "jacket" though. Interestingly, I will purchase my son his first blazer soon and I will probably urge him toward metallic buttons. I think for young men who are just starting out, metallic buttons are fine, but I think as you become a little older you can tone things down to great effect. The point is, I think it's still a blazer even with alternate buttons.
Hi Murray, It's funny that you wrote this, because there are so many comments here discussing the buttons on a blazer, and only this morning the most obvious thing occurred to me. A blazer is called a blazer because it is typically "emblazoned" somewhere (either the buttons or embroidery on the fabric) to denote some sort of " membership". If there is absolutely no emblazoned feature present, then instead of being a blazer, IT IS SIMPLY A SPORT COAT (or sports coat as the Americans like to say). So simple. Yet I didn't see it until now. If you enjoy the horn buttons, then in my view, you are wearing a sport coat. Voila! I would like to know your thoughts to see if you agree. Cheers ! ~Sonya
Sonya: I agree with much of what you write with only a few exceptions. First, I think your concept of a blazer having some embellishment with membership in some organization is most clever, and that something being emblazoned being a blazer will probably be added to the lexicon of the definition, to your credit. Where I go my own way is the idea that horn buttons on the garment we are thinking of make the garment something different than a blazer. I’m thinking of your 2015 note on this and the history of the garment. Horn buttons were used on some of the earliest versions of what we call a blazer. I also think that the level of formality of the coat has to be considered. A sports coat simply doesn’t carry the gravitas of a blazer. As you noted, sports coats were designed for sports, but blazers seem to have a more militaristic origin in addition to nautical wear. I know that rowing jackets in multi-stripes are blazers, but I probably wouldn’t wear one to dinner outside a regatta. So a blazer may be a sports coat I concede, but horn buttons don't prevent it from being a blazer. Thank you for what you and Hugo do, it is appreciated.
Fair enough and great discussion, particularly your point about the blazer yielding a more serious aura. Now I leave you with a question...does a navy blue sports coat exist or not--and if yes, what in your mind differentiates the navy blazer from the navy sports coat? Thanks for taking the time to contribute and to comment! ~Sonya
dear sonya, hugo and crew, thanks yet again for another wonderful video. i do have a question that is somewhat unrelated: how does a winchester shirt rank among other shirts in terms of formality? Is it more or less formal than a white shirt, and is it OK to sport something like a knit tie with it? i have my doubts, but i want to be sure.
The Winchester shirt (a patterned shirt with white cuffs and collar) probably got its start with the introduction of the white detachable white collar in the 1820s. Much later, the Winchester became associated with the Wall Street "power look" and this association has held strong, yet the stereotype seems to be mitigated as of late. My perception is the shirt still feels quite corporate and business-related, but if you commission such a shirt, you may request that THE CUFFS BE IN THE SAME FABRIC AS THE SHIRT---a gesture which calms the overall look. I prefer white collars on all my shirts with "mini-checked fabric", and consider the white collar (for myself) mandatory with this particular pattern. I hope my response helps! Cheers! ~Sonya
That's good information to share about the Winchester shirt and might help answer one's own thinking. However, their questions still will be looking for your viewpoint of categorizing the formality as one might derbys and oxfords compared along with the all white and pairing with a knit tie (or grenadine?) Might your suggestion of cuffs in the same material increase or decrease formality?
Precisely--requesting the cuff be made of the same fabric, in my view, decreases formality. I will see if I can find reliable sources regarding a formality classification of shirts such as the Winchester. Thanks for the suggestion. I really appreciate your input. ~Sonya
sonya, thanks a lot for the prompt reply. now that you mention it, i recall hearing that it does seem to have a strong connotation with wall street. judging by your explanation, i'm guessing it would be inappropriate to have a knit tie together with the winchester shirt as it would create a clash between casual and corporate, at least if the shirt has both white cuffs and collar.
What's the origins of that classic the harrington jacket I've got one and will probably buy another colour, I've got black. Also what's the origins of the twin tipped tennis shirt because I've bought a brand that dates to 1940s and Fred Perry which is hellishly more expensive but I suppose you pay for the brand and the made in UK label.
Baracuta (a British company) apparently introduced the Harrington style (also known as G9) in the 1930s...with the name Harrington taken from a character in a 1960s soap called "Peyton Place". The jacket is lightweight and roomy and Elvis Presley, Steve McQueen, Frank Sinatra and James Dean owned a Harrington. I'm not sure about the tipped tennis shirt (must investigate!). Thanks for your great questions. ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 thanks sonya I feel embarrassed as I only have 1 suit but 4 double cuff shirts and 5 sets of cufflinks so I'm slowly building up my wardrobe. Thanks again
It makes my day when I see a new episode notification.
Thank you so much, Noor. This is such a kind message for me to read. ~Sonya
Sonya N It makes my day when I watch a new episode.
Noor Hussai
My dear sir, I want to thank you, your wife and all of those who put so much into making these videos. The information is excellent, but your passion for the subjects and you belief that we can make the world a little better by adding just a little refinement to our lives is what I find so inspiring. Thank you for sharing your passion with us.
Thank you so much Bjorn. We are so glad you exactly understand what we really want to communicate. Best, Hugo & Sonya
Excellent explanation Sonya, I closely observe and practice yours and Hugo's guidelines while getting dressed up and recently getting quite good compliments about it. Thank you and Hugo for making us realize how important is to dressed up elegantly. I am huge fan of your and Hugo's sophistication, elegance and above all modesty. Love you guys, keep up the good work.
Your comment about being modest is especially important to us. Thank you so much for watching, following, and taking the time to comment. As ever, Sonya and Hugo
Please continue to release the excellent content you’ve all been releasing. Very informative and inspiring to people of all different walks of life and ages.
Thank you for your encouragements! Sonya and Hugo
Aghh...the best, clearest, and most complete explanation I've ever heard on the subject.. THANK YOU!! Finally, someone really clarifies. My neighbor was a clothing buyer for Nordstrom's out in SF in the 70's. Even her explanation left me...lol....almost in tears from frustration as the rules seem to change from minute to minute. So thank you for really nailing this one.
I appreciate the elaboration, effort and validation you put into your reply. Thank you so much, ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya and Hugo. This is one of my anticipated episodes. More power to the two of you.
Very good to hear. Thanks for saying so and for your support, Lawrence! ~Sonya
Blazer = emblazoned! Thanks for that and cheers to Sonya and Hugo, too.
Exactly, and thanks for commenting ! Cheers, ~Sonya
I definitely did not know about the mess jacket, I always enjoy hearing from you and Hugo on matters of style.
Heyyy SA--Thanks a lot for commenting and hope you're doing well! ~Sonya
wow! the elegant couple with 2 videos in one week !! how lucky we are)))),
nice to see you again sonia with this very nice educational video, thanks
for your effort,
love from Cairo, Egypt.
Hello again, and thank you so much for your consistent support. ~Sonya
Best explanation to date--thank you!
That's great to know. Thanks a lot ! ~Sonya
massive knockers
I just bought a pure cashmere Navy blazer from Suit Supply; the fabric is from an Italian mill called Colombo; I can’t wait to wear it this fall and winter; it’s definitely my favorite blazer in my collection thus far.
I'm really a big fan of you and your husband. I have binged on your videos. Initially I figured you would be the uppity type but having watched your videos, you both come across as extremely knowledgeable and very relatable people. Also I watched a video on your faith and that makes you guys even more appealing. Please keep up the great work.
I really love this channel and personaly I would love you to record some videos to explain the jackets you’ve mentioned before (hacking jacket, maybe shooting jacket, ecc). As a british menswear lover it would be amazing. My best regards!
So glad you enjoy the channel--great idea and and we'll add your suggestion to our list for sure.Thank you! ~Sonya
Please can you show us how to the scarf /tie around your neck. It looks beautiful
Thank you Sonia .i am working at Hawes&Curtis London. I want to learn more about menswear.
Please stay tuned. I'm sure you are gaining quite a knowledge base and could teach us a few things. ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya.
I suggest that you leave H&C and get a job at a proper menswear shop.Turnbull and Asser,Gieves and Hawkes or Cording's.
Good explanation on the blazer! I had never heard of the Hacking Jacket, so I learned something new. I tended to confuse the sports coat and the blazer! Was wondering if you could do a IVY League - Fall sytle article if possible. Keep up the excellent work!
I will ask the producers to see what the think. Thank you for your input---much appreciated. ~Sonya
Excellent, educational video. Sonya may as well offer lessons on comportment and eloquence, given her evident mastery of both.
Thank you so much. Hugo helped me with my presentation skills by teaching me to channel what I already know, instead of trying to prepare-and-present. Your comment is much appreciated, ~Sonya
Thanks a lot for the clear infirmation. Iam learning a lot with your videos. You are a wonderful teacher. Best regards.
Très belle vidéo Madame,
C’est toujours un très grand plaisir que de suivre vos explications/conseils.
Excellent week-end à vous.
Je vous remercie et bon Dimanche ! ~Sonya
Seems like 20 years ago (?) we started to see blue blazers but with ordinary buttons. It's a good look you see often. What kinds of buttons do you recommend?
What a fantastic explanation! Thanks a lot for this great series of videos.
Hi Volker--thank you so much. ~Sonya
Thanks for all you do :) I’d love to hear more about wearing suit coats as odd jackets. I’ve heard some “rules” regarding patterns on the jacket (pinstripes often being mentioned) or materials that make them not appropriate for wear as an odd jacket, but I’d love to hear more on the subject! Cheers!
If a suit coat is a solid blue (or rarely bottle green or red) and the buttons are changed to metal buttons or pearl type buttons, maybe you could use it as a blazer. If the suit coat is made of a fabric which is often crafted alone as a sport coat (in a strong pattern or tweed, for example), then why not. If you adapt a suit coat to become a sports coat, make sure it's made of a fabric which you would not hesitate to craft alone as a sports coat. Thanks, ~Sonya
I've always wondered about this. My best suit from two decades past has a wearable coat but the matching pants were ruined over a decade ago.
I love wearing Sports Coats or even some times Navy Suit Coat with Grey flannel pants. :)
First I want to say how much I love your videos! Would you possibly be able to do a video on the different types of ties and pocket(as well as knots) squares and where they came from? I learnt so much from your edition on shoes, so I wanted to ask.
All the best,
James
Hello James, I'm added your suggestions to the list for future episodes. Thank you for supporting and commenting! ~Sonya
Sonya N Thank you so much!!!
As always, a great description of the different jacket types. In a previous video, Hugo has spoken of the three piece suit. Could either of you discuss the odd vest (waistcoat) and its use in a suit, such as where appropriate, how to match the rest of the suit, etc? Thanks.
Hi William and thanks for the suggestion! Meanwhile, you can read the short piece "Ditto Suits? Selecting Your Waistcoat Fabric" on Parisian Gentleman (a piece I wrote in 2014) and see what you think! Cheers! Sonya
What wonderful clarifications of a "jacket" and "coat," so they aren't conflated with one another!
Much appreciated and now I must use the word "conflated" more. Cheers! ~Sonya
Gentleman's Gazette
brought me here so now you have a new subscriber and by the way Sonya Glyn look fit her very well if I may say
I'm grateful; thank you. And I just left a comment on Raphael's latest video. Cheers to you ! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKSYou are very welcome and thanks for the reply it means a lot to me
I loved it as soon as Sonya started talking.
That's a precious thing to say---wow, thanks! ~Sonya
Sonya N I deeply enjoy sartorial talks. You have such a charming voice and gaze that reflect this is really your passion. I am truly looking forward to the next video.
Thamk you sonya and Hugo once again a truly wonderful Video that you have shared with us once again, please keep up the fantastic work, i fore one am imencely grateful, thank you so much, Your friend Ryan.
Hi Ryan and thank you very much for commenting and for watching. ~Sonya
Thank you for this video. I would love to watch you talk on trousers. Once again, great video.
Hi Leo, Why not talk about trousers? Added to the list. Cheers, ~Sonya
and thank you!
Just looking at the tailoring of your shirt in this video. It is fantastic!
Thank you, the shirt is from Marol in Bologna, Italy (with a Marlene Dietrich collar)---I wish I'd done a better job tucking it in, ha! Appreciate the comment. Cheers! ~Sonya
Thank you so much! I had trouble identifying these jackets and coats! :) Thanks again!
You're welcome. I felt the same and is the reason why eventually I had to research the subject. Thanks for commenting! ~Sonya
Thank you, like many I assume I have been using jacket and coat a little too interchangeably and incorrectly. I guess I have to stop saying suit jacket and odd jacket. I stand gratefully corrected.
It took me a while to understand as well---a bit of research, including contacting G. Bruce Boyer directly for a quote! Thank you.~Sonya
HI Sonya, I live in India and I don't think that sports coats are in fashion here or also not available for sale. Can you suggest a few reasonable brands which manufacture sports coat so that I can browse their websites and then come to a conclusion.
I've seen tweed jackets for sale under the title "hacking jackets" and now I know where they got their name. Thank you Sonya for your explanation! I love the Norfolk jacket!
Hi Waltski, It's interesting that you recently saw a sale for hacking jackets. The Norfolk is surprisingly stylish, I agree. Cheers! ~Sonya
Sartorial Talks, Sonya hi, so is a jacket essentially a type of a sport coat?
Great videos :) love them and wish you’d get more of them made...
Thank you so much for saying so! ~Sonya
I always wondered what the differences were. Thank you.
I'm happy you found it helpful and thank you for commenting. ~Sonya
I love you videos and find them very informative but I must add that many summer blazers made in linen have Ivory buttons.
So wearing a sport coat doesn't match with the trousers. But are its proportions the same as a suit jacket? I've heard the sport jacket had to be shorter (I mean its length) than a suit jacket? Is that right? Or then is it possible to make of a suit jacket a coat jacket only by wearing it with trousers that don't match?
Thanks anyway!
Always so informative, thank you.
Thank you Ms. Glyn for your thorough explanation.
You're welcome and thanks so much for commenting. ~Sonya
Greeting from Greece to all my sartorial comrads and especially Sonya and Hugo
Greetings from Bourgogne, and thank you for watching. ~Sonya
Sonya N please tell to my dear Hugo that i still wait a video about lapels!
Wonderful explanation. Thank you for sharing this detail.
Hi Jude and thank you for your positive comment. ~Sonya
Love the content, explained very clearly and succinctly
The confirmation helps a lot. Thanks for taking the time to write. ~Sonya
Great explanation. So in which category does a tuxedo fall into?
A tuxedo is classified as semi-formal (formal would be white tie). Cheers! ~Sonya
Sonya you have been very clear and charming in your explanation, I'd like to see you watching the camera at the end. It would feel more personal because when you invite your followers to comment... congrats S&H!
You're absolutely right. So obvious! I'm not sure why I didn't think about it. Thank you for the comment ! ~Sonya
wow. so insightful.
i have so much more ot learn about men's wear.
thank you for putting out such great content.
is there a similar way how to diferentiate trousers? i think so, but i'm not sure. so a video about that would also be nice :)
keep up the good work
Hello Nejc, I've only heard trousers differentiated as suit trousers, odd trousers or separates, but I will try to find out more just in case I can add to the explanation. Thank you, ~Sonya
...and thanks for listening and commenting ! ~S
I most appreciate examples of different types of jackets. It gives me more to examine and see what best fits my style.
I am still confused about the distinction between a coat and a jacket. From the definition given by G. Bruce Boyer, it sounds like this garment can shift terms. For example, does a suit coat become a suit jacket if you exchange a tailored dress shirt for a non-tailored one?
Hi Daniel. Funny but I had the identical first thought when I read Bruce's first point. But he is referring to an overcoat on top of a suit coat, sports coat, blazer or jacket---meaning that it would be strange to refer to an overcoat as a jacket. Cheers! ~Sonya
Great video Sonya,.you has cracked the blazer jargon..i assume that a Jackets and sport coats are very much the same both started out as active events garments
Yes, I had to sort through a lot of information and interview Boyer to clarify as well. Thank you very much. ~Sonya
Sonya, am I wrong to assume that blazers always come in the color of navy blue and generally follow a simple structure? Also, do modern blazers actually come with some sort of emblem in their buttons (or some place else)?
When I was a kid, my dad owned a pub in the Midlands, England. An old fella (fought in both WWs) told me that after WW1, vets could not find work and that some became bell hops, lift attendance, etc in hotels as it was the only work they could get. They were told to dress smart and all they had was the 1ns or 2s dress from their time in the military. Hence the fashion for this dress code now in "good" hotels. Not checked if it is true but is a good story. What an excellent old gent (ex 0fficer) by the way, told me stories about Laurance of Arabia and all sorts, by the fireplace when on school holidays, don't find then much now.
Such a fascinating story. I had no idea--thank you so much for sharing! ~Sonya
Thanks for the video. In your opinion, should a suit coat, tuxedo and sports jacket all fit slightly differently?
Hi, in regard to a suit coat and sports coat, it really depends on the cut you prefer---a cut that follows the silhouette or a looser cut that portrays more of a Hollywood Golden Era vibe.
I believe the cut for a tuxedo adheres to more universal codes of a good fit and other factors (see the article What Should the Groom Wear on Parisian Gentleman). Thank you, ~Sonya
Thanks, Sonya. This is something I think about a lot, so thank you for taking the time to provide your incite, it's much appreciated!
Very nice explanations about the topic but if it is possible to put an image from every kind of topic that would perfect generally. for example suit coat vs sport coat. And if you can do a video spesifically about different kind of coats i would love to watch and learn something new about sartorial world:)
Thank you for the suggestions, I will ask our editor to provide more of this consistency with B roll. Cheers! ~Sonya
With the definition of Suit and Sport Coats being so similar -- namely that a suit coat matches suit trousers and a sport coat is an odd coat -- is it appropriate to wear a suit coat as a separate/odd coat? or is there a further distinction between suit and sport coats than merely matching versus odd?
Hi Joseph. This is a reoccurring question and to feel confident in reviving an orphaned suit coat, you must make sure it is convincing as a blazer (solid blue or rarely bottle green or red) and the buttons are changed to be emblazoned metal buttons or pearl buttons with a shine. The other option is to determine if the fabric on the suit coat is a fabric you would consider using for an odd coat or not (e.g., does the fabric have a fairly strong pattern or is it made of tweed or with a fabric that has texture--if yes, it's possible that the suit coat could be translated into an odd coat). Thanks for your question, ~Sonya
Thank you for the reply Sonya and for the helpful videos. In the second option a change of buttons would not be required? A tweed suit coat should be relatively similar to an odd coat for instance? again, thank you for your help!
Exactly as you stated! Thanks, ~Sonya
That's what I've been wanting to know too! I have an SR's signature octagonal designed deep royal blue navy with a sheen, but I don't have a matching pant. So I do wear on occasion with a deep brown pant (from Armani) and dress it with a pair of caramel color (A.Testoni - bologna-goodyear) wingtip shoes. And I have been thinking about working for a while now - I've been hiatus for almost 2 years now, and I start to get extremely bored.
when you just start off with your first suit. is it appropriate to wear one suit for the whole week while just changing the shirts and ties every day?
After you buy your first suit, if you are not able to buy another jacket, I would recommend you that you purchase a waistcoat (vest) that you can wear with your trousers (without the coat) a day or two a week--in order to allow your only jacket to breathe and rest at least a few days a week. The floating canvas inside the jacket occasionally needs to rest and recover to perform well (and to smell nice:) Otherwise if you're able, when you get home, hang your jacket up immediately near an open window to allow it to rest. ~Sonya
Thank you Sonya. Learning so much from you! And such elegance; I believe I’d listen intently to you reading the dictionary!
Hahaa, I'm not sure if many others would agree on that level, but I adore the comment. Thank you! ~Sonya
Would you also say suit jackets are typically longer in length? I go thrift shopping quite often, and I usually make the distinction between a suit jacket and sports jacket based on the length, colour and formality of the fabric. I find suit jackets or "orphan" jackets usually longer, darker blue/charcoal, no pattern, and made of a worsted wool.
Great blazer explanation by the way.
Suit coats are made in all different lengths to accommodate different stye preferences, morphology, and crafter decisions, worsted wool indeed is a common raw material for the suit coat (as well as solid colors, with the exception of the blazer of course). In Italy, you may see men wearing shorter suit coats while in England men can be fussy about their suit coat "just covering" their backside. Fashion houses try to make "a statement" with very short or very long suit coats sometimes---so lengths vary! Thanks for asking! ~Sonya
I needed this. I'm a very fashion interested person but this different was always hard for me to understand.
Thank you so much for commenting and letting us know! ~Sonya
What a beauty! 🎉 excellent discussion, too! A+
Thanks for that Dan! Cheers! ~Sonya
It's very nice of you for the warning that this will be confusing, because it did confuse me! Haha.
So, based on your explanation, a suit coat worn separately with different trousers is still counts as a "suit coat" not a blazer?
What about an odd jacket with a very formal cut, colour, and fabric, yet lacks the blazed buttons or chest crest? Does it still counts as a blazer or just an odd jacket?
Asked like a pro! Yes a suit coat worn separately remains a suit coat (just worn as a sport coat--like not a blazer unless it's blue, bottle green or red). A blazer can have shiny buttons instead of emblazoned metal buttons (similar to pearl buttons on some Cifonelli blazers), but may not fit the "traditional explanation" of a blazer. ~Sonya
This lady is really one of a kind... so charming... by the way... what was she talking about? I must watch again... LOL
Excellent Sonya!
Thank you, Kofi! ~Sonya
I have been thinking about a Norfolk jacket (I like the British country clothing for being both stylish and practical) but being a 30-years-old IT engineer living in a central European city where nobody wears such clothes, I would not want to look like coming from a different country and century. What would you suggest to pair it with for a more contemporary look? Could it work with a pair of black moleskin jeans or chinos and derby boots?
After giving your question some thought, I believe your idea about pairing-down the Norfolk with black moleskin jeans would work. But as you said, an especially excellent pair of shoes would be a must. If you try it out, send us a photo on Instagram at @sonyaglyn ! Cheers !
~Sonya & Hugo
Thank you so much for this channel. Being from a rural part of Georgia I never had to opportunity to learn about nice clothes. Do you have a store in Atlanta?
We don't have a store, although we curate the best menswear products we can find and offer sales on the website "Parisian Gentleman" from time to time in limited editions. Right now you can go to Cobbler Union's Website, order a pair of shoes and enter the code PGCU10 to get 10 percent off, free shoe trees and free shipping on some of the most solid and well curated ready to wear shoes out there. Made in Spain with a flagship store in Atlanta, GA. Cheers! ~Sonya
You and your husband are amazing! Come to Alaska, we need your satorial guidance!
Hi Daniel, I have traveled to Alaska twice and even done some dirt biking in Fairbanks.I'm glad to know of your interest in sartorial matters in this fascinating state! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS seeing that you replied has made my day! And I hope you liked Alaska, it can be a very interesting state haha. Keep up the amazing videos! It's because you you that I changed the way I dress!
Thanks for all that you do
Daniel
Learning so much. Thank you so much
You're welcome and glad you took the time to comment. ~Sonya
Sooo... Does an orphaned suit jacket automatically become a sport jacket or not. And if not, why? I've read numerous times, that one can tell one from the other, and I think I somewhat know what's meant by that. However, I can't put my finger on it. Maybe, you or Hugo can help. Thanks in advance. :)
Greetings from Germany!
Greetings form Bourgogne! I have revised my answer with more thought---since there is so much interest in the question : An orphaned suit coat may be worn as a sports coat if you could imagine it being crafted alone as a sports coat (in a stronger pattern or in tweed for example) or a blazer if the buttons are changed to metal or pearl buttons (if it's blue, or in rare instances bottle green or red). ~Sonya
Sonya N Thank you!
Really enjoy your videos, it helps a lot. I was curious, is it possible to talk about vests?
I have noted your interest in vests (waistcoats) and sure, it is a great idea to do such an episode. Thank you! ~Sonya
Cheers for sharing! Clarified what I needed.
We are so glad to read it helped you! Hugo & Sonya
Very good video, I like this channel.
Thanks for taking time to say so, Daniel! ~Sonya
This was very helpful, thanks!
You're welcome, much appreciated. ~Sonya
What would be a good color for a sports jacket to wear with lots of different colors, types of trousers and/or jeans in your opinion ?
I believe a brown tweed jacket may be the most versatile bet during fall and winter for your purposes, and a navy blue blazer made with hopsack, or a wool/silk textured blend with pewter metal buttons (to yield a better formality range) would be a versatile bet for spring and summer! Thanks for the question. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you so much Sonya for taking your time to answer my question, and also get into such a detail ! Love your channel ! I am looking forward to watching your videos ! You have made me want to buy my first suit and gradually build my wardrobe ! I am 24 years old, and it will take a little time to i save up, to get a full canvas suit.
With regards, Thanos
Is it alright to wear a deep rich blue navy sport coats (I prefer to call it jacket) and a deep brown pant and wear it with a pair of caramel color wingtip shoes as business attire?
Absolutely, a navy blazer should work well with the suggested ensemble---although the most classic combination with be a navy blazer with (very) light gray, beige or white wool trousers. Ideally the navy blazer would have metal buttons or mother of pearl shiny buttons, but these days you can use your own discretion and be creative with the buttons, if you like. Cheers! ~Sonya
Brilliant! Thank you for the very informative video.
You're welcome and thank you for commenting ! ~Sonya
So can a suit coat become a sport coat if you just wear it with a different color trouser? And I'm assuming the difference between a blazer and a suit coat is that the suit coat doesn't have "emblazoned" buttons on it?
Hi Scott, A blazer is usually solid blue like in the illustration with emblazoned or at least shiny buttons (rarely it may be bottle green or red, or another possibility is a striped Rowing Blazer).
You should be safe using a suit coat as a sports coat only IF you would consider buying this suit coat alone without the trousers. Typically a sports coat is either patterned or texturized, e.g., tweed. I can say with confidence that a worsted wool solid colored suit coat will not pass for a sports coat. I hope this answers your question. Cheers! Sonya
Hi Scott, A blazer is usually solid blue like in the illustration with emblazoned or at least shiny buttons (rarely it may be bottle green or red, or another possibility is a striped Rowing Blazer).
You should be safe using a suit coat as a sports coat only IF you would consider buying this suit coat alone without the trousers. Typically a sports coat is either patterned or texturized, e.g., tweed. I can say with confidence that a worsted wool solid colored suit coat will not pass for a sports coat. I hope this answers your question. Cheers! Sonya
Ah okay I see the difference between the suit coat and sport coat now. But I still don't get the difference between the blazer and a suit coat. If I have a solid blue blazer and a solid blue suit coat side by side each other, is the only main difference going to be that the blazer one has emblazoned buttons on it whereas the suit coat one doesn't? Thanks again!
Great axplanations but I would love to see more pictures of what you are talking about like you did with the hunting jacket
Well noted. Thank you and we will keep amping up the B roll! ~Sonya
According to Wikipedia, the word "blazer" is actually a Cambridge invention, referring initially to the scarlet jackets of the Lady Margaret Boat Club circa. 1825 i.e. blaze red which are still worn today with varying cuts, button styles. In contemporary terms the blazer of today sits between the sports jack and the dress or suit jacket in terms of formality and is usually blue and can be dressed up and down with slacks, chinos or jeans. The blue blazer is the one jacket all men should own.
Agreed and thank you for expounding on the history of the blazer! Cheers, ~Sonya
So just a fun question where I'd like to target the signature look of Karl Lagerfeld who very often combines an unbuttoned suit jacket with some sort of skinny cut jeans, usually, at least the jackets are Dior Homme, the jeans I'm not sure about. Since I really like this look myself I was wondering - if the suit jacket is not too formal (would it still be one then?), is it legitimate to wear it in combination with different fabric or would that appear too pretentious or even as a faux pas when you're not specifically Monsieur Lagerfeld himself at that day? Worth mentioning that I love the detachable collars he's wearing, but that seems to be no longer a thing, does it? Would love to hear your thoughts on this! Thanks for that great video!
Basically you can do anything you like if you find it aesthetically pleasing. But if you're running in sartorial circles who are highly educated on traditional suiting, then stick to the rules and wear a suit coat with the trousers which were crafted to be paired with the suit coat. However, if your company has no clue nor cares about suiting, then go for it. Really, either way it's your choice and based on your intuitive inclination. In regard to detachable collars, they are always in style if you want them to be. Thanks for your comment! ~Sonya
Thank you very much for your comment, appreciate it a lot!
A signature look is just like a signature - it is never appropriate to use someone else's. It usually ends up looking like cosplay.
Besides that, a signature, while usually similar to your handwriting, is often unreadable, so if you were writing like that all the time, nobody would understand what you wrote. So while it is OK to get creative with your signature, you still want to be able to write a readable text.
Same applies to clothes - it is OK to wear something unique to you (for example, I always wear high-top shoes, from sneakers to leather boots), but your style should still be "readable" - people should still understand why are you wearing what you are wearing (unless you are an 84-years-old fashion designer and do not have to give a damn about what people think about you.)
Hvit Varulv, why high-tops?
snoflake it is primarily about balance. I do weightlifting and the bigger legs you have, the bigger shoes you need, otherwise you would look ridiculous (just like you would with skinny legs and big shoes.)
Also, I do not like to show my socks, but that is purely a matter of personal style and taste.
Hi Sonya, this certainly helps! I would be thankful if you could explain what a "lounge suit" is, and could we use a smoking jacket for the same occasion as the "lounge suit"? Also, can a smoking jacket be made from any other fabric apart from velvet? Many thanks.
Nice suggestion for an upcoming episode (next year since we recorded future episodes just last week!). Thank you and please keep the suggestions coming. ~Sonya
To expand on your question, the term "lounge suit" surfaced in the early 1900s when frock coats, morning suits, and even sometimes top hats were the norm; thus a "regular suit" design was deemed useful for lounging around the house, hotel or vacation spot. The term "lounge suit" stuck around and now it just means a standard suit, typically single breasted with a notch lapel. A smoking jacket and a dinner jacket are terms that are typically interchanged---and used for semi-formal occasions, sometimes in place of a tuxedo. Cheers! ~Sonya
So I got a suit, and I want to mix the coat of that suit with another pair of trousers. Despite being the same coat, would you call the coat differently according to trousers I am wearing? Would you call it a suit coat when I am wearing the matching suit trousers and a sports coat if I was wearing jeans with it instead (for example)? By the way, is it okay to mix suit coats with jeans? .... I am a bit confused! Many thanks in advance and great video once again :)
Hi João, Your question is a reoccurring question here.
Once a suit coat always a suit coat...but if the suit coat is made of tweed or other texturized fabric, or has a defined pattern, the suit coat has the possibility of doubling as a sports coat. The simple question to ask yourself is: would you ever buy this suit coat as a sports coat without trousers, or not. If the answer is yes, then by all means use your suit coat as a sports coat.
In the future, think ahead before you buy your next suit (and peek at the sports coats section in a store). Once you become familiar with a wide range of sports coats, then you can buy a suit with a suit coat that more easily doubles as both suit and sports coat. Some sports coats are mild enough in design and texture to add matching trousers, but the majority of the time, this approach won't work because sports coats are too bold or texturized to have matching trousers. Still, it's a clever approach if you can pull it off!
I hope you follow the logic. Cheers, ~Sonya
Sonya N Just last week I bought what was purportedly a “blazer” from a high end used clothing shop. After this video, I now know it was misidentified. Black, nothing emblazoned, and fits more in your definition of a suit coat. Had hoped to wear it with gray pants in a casual setting for a night at the pub. Oh well, live and learn! Thank you.
@@mercerville1111 What you have is probably a simple black sports coat, and if it looks good with the gray trousers, then it should be fine. There are a lot of supposed professionals who think the terms Blazer and sports coat are interchangeable, as they are both jackets that are not part of a suit of clothes.
Great job!
Thank you for this episode cheers !
You're welcome & thanks for commenting. Cheers! ~Sonya
Great vid as always! You guys are awesome!
Thank you James ! ~Sonya and Hugo
What about blazers with pearl (MOP or smoked MOP) buttons?
Cifonelli Paris likes to put pearl buttons on their blazers and they look perfectly nice. Shiny buttons retain the spirit of the blazer, even if they're not metal, IMO. ~Sonya
Very well taken comments.
Hey, thank you James. ~Sonya
Sonya N Very well made comments.
Thanks for the explanation, but sadly in some parts of the world it could be useful to include terms in other languages as well (especially in German).
Please tell about the Indian wedding what I wear a dress suit or blazer which kind of in Indian wedding please help me I am new on your channel thank you
Please see my article on Parisian Gentleman, "What the Groom Should Wear" (and find your section).
Also see my article entitled "The Mao suit and the Nehru jacket". Cheers! ~Sonya
A lot of eBay sellers should watch this video!
I haven't thought of it. Thank you! ~Sonya
Great as always, my only comment would be about the Norfolk shooting jacket, you would get shot in the county if you didn't pronounce if Norfuck. Please keep up the great work.
Are you seriously serious? I need to know, ha ! Thanks for the tip and a good jacket name to use when frustrated. ~Sonya
Sonya Glyn Quite, the people of that faraway land really do call their home “Nor-fokk”.
Sonya Glyn it’s because of the accent. It is Norfolk, but the accent makes it sound Norfuck. I come from near there.
Well, that's still a bit complicated because, after all, these different terms refer to items which are quite similar in design: buttons, lapels, pockets around hips, breast pocket etc. In my mother tongue - Polish - there is a single word for all these. The word is "marynarka" and even if you don't speak Polish, you can probably see a marine reference in the name. Arguably, it makes life far more easier to have one single term but, I admit, the differentiation of these terms in English forces to see different aspects of the garment.
This is the first time I've heard "Marynarka" and I'm very happy to know the term, thank you. Yes I agree, the English are happy to complicate things. But like it or not, the roots of the suit are derived from the English! ~Sonya
My blue blazer does not have the brass buttons, but instead has typical dark buttons instead. I wear it with slacks for times when I want a slight dressy look but do not want to wear a full suit. I think the toned down look of the blue blazer (with dark buttons) gives a nice semi-dress look that does not scream look at me, which I prefer. Any thoughts on a blue blazer with dark buttons?
Hi Mario. I'm guessing that your blazer was once a suit coat (but not sure)? Either way, If you prefer to use a blazer without emblazoned buttons, I would suggest you consider changing the buttons to pearlized buttons or high quality shinier buttons. Cifonelli Paris once made a blazer for me with dark blue solid pearl buttons, which looked great. Or use buttons with a shine or sheen to them--it's more convincing (to qualify as a blazer) in my opinion. Thanks for commenting and for watching! Cheers! ~Sonya
I really like your suggestion of pearlized buttons on a blazer. I feel brass buttons are a bit too much for me, but that is a personal preference. I did buy the blazer with brass buttons in Italy when I would travel to Europe on business years ago, and had it changed to the traditional dark buttons. Thank you so much for your suggestion, it's perfect!
Can we wear dubble brested jacket with jeans and boots?
I've seen it done---but I suppose you have to have a unique natural style to pull of the look. Ask your instincts and see what they tell you. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 thanks alot... yes i like it i always do this if i like to wear something and feel good then i go for it.. now after your statement im stick with this rule thank you soo much you both are really nice hugo and you... deadly combo... one of the best.. cheers
Should blazers be worn outside of club functions?
Absolutely, a Blazer, particularly when paired with white, beige or very light gray trousers can be among the best of choices for occasions which require a "dressed-up" look. Cheers! ~Sonya
What is the most versitile "casual" colour for a sports jacket,? not a suit but a jacket/sports jacket
Thank You
I believe the blue blazer with metal buttons for year round wear, along with a brown tweed sports coat for almost any other occasion (during cooler weather---a brown linen/silk for summer). But this is only my opinion based on my own experience in the business of menswear. Cheers! ~Sonya
A great video, as always, but I have to be a contrarian. It appears that a somewhat raging debate exists over the term "blazer" as it relates to buttons in menswear. I recently had a custom blazer made, and I chose horn buttons (as opposed to emblazoned metallic buttons), adding an interesting lining, and working button holes. For many years, I wore metal buttons on my blazers; but I'm old enough now that I wanted to do something different. My last blazer had my graduate school buttons on it (which were given to me by a loved one). The buttons, and the blazer were damaged by a dry cleaner (which is the reason I went shopping to start with). However, that is a sad tale for another day. In any case, I enjoy the new horn button look. It seems very modern and understated. I'm not prepared to call the thing a "jacket" though. Interestingly, I will purchase my son his first blazer soon and I will probably urge him toward metallic buttons. I think for young men who are just starting out, metallic buttons are fine, but I think as you become a little older you can tone things down to great effect. The point is, I think it's still a blazer even with alternate buttons.
Hi Murray,
It's funny that you wrote this, because there are so many comments here discussing the buttons on a blazer, and only this morning the most obvious thing occurred to me. A blazer is called a blazer because it is typically "emblazoned" somewhere (either the buttons or embroidery on the fabric) to denote some sort of " membership".
If there is absolutely no emblazoned feature present, then instead of being a blazer, IT IS SIMPLY A SPORT COAT (or sports coat as the Americans like to say). So simple. Yet I didn't see it until now. If you enjoy the horn buttons, then in my view, you are wearing a sport coat. Voila! I would like to know your thoughts to see if you agree. Cheers ! ~Sonya
Will rephrase/alter one sentence above: "MODELED AFTER blazers which denoted a membership", as typically we don't use blazers this way today.
Sonya: I agree with much of what you write with only a few exceptions. First, I think your concept of a blazer having some embellishment with membership in some organization is most clever, and that something being emblazoned being a blazer will probably be added to the lexicon of the definition, to your credit. Where I go my own way is the idea that horn buttons on the garment we are thinking of make the garment something different than a blazer. I’m thinking of your 2015 note on this and the history of the garment. Horn buttons were used on some of the earliest versions of what we call a blazer. I also think that the level of formality of the coat has to be considered. A sports coat simply doesn’t carry the gravitas of a blazer. As you noted, sports coats were designed for sports, but blazers seem to have a more militaristic origin in addition to nautical wear. I know that rowing jackets in multi-stripes are blazers, but I probably wouldn’t wear one to dinner outside a regatta. So a blazer may be a sports coat I concede, but horn buttons don't prevent it from being a blazer. Thank you for what you and Hugo do, it is appreciated.
Fair enough and great discussion, particularly your point about the blazer yielding a more serious aura. Now I leave you with a question...does a navy blue sports coat exist or not--and if yes, what in your mind differentiates the navy blazer from the navy sports coat? Thanks for taking the time to contribute and to comment! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 I always associate a blazer with an odd jacket that has finer material and cut than a sports coat for example.
I usually think of a sport coat as being of a thicker material than a suit coat. I don’t like the trend of using a suit coat as a sport coat.
dear sonya, hugo and crew, thanks yet again for another wonderful video.
i do have a question that is somewhat unrelated: how does a winchester shirt rank among other shirts in terms of formality? Is it more or less formal than a white shirt, and is it OK to sport something like a knit tie with it? i have my doubts, but i want to be sure.
The Winchester shirt (a patterned shirt with white cuffs and collar) probably got its start with the introduction of the white detachable white collar in the 1820s. Much later, the Winchester became associated with the Wall Street "power look" and this association has held strong, yet the stereotype seems to be mitigated as of late.
My perception is the shirt still feels quite corporate and business-related, but if you commission such a shirt, you may request that THE CUFFS BE IN THE SAME FABRIC AS THE SHIRT---a gesture which calms the overall look. I prefer white collars on all my shirts with "mini-checked fabric", and consider the white collar (for myself) mandatory with this particular pattern. I hope my response helps! Cheers! ~Sonya
That's good information to share about the Winchester shirt and might help answer one's own thinking. However, their questions still will be looking for your viewpoint of categorizing the formality as one might derbys and oxfords compared along with the all white and pairing with a knit tie (or grenadine?) Might your suggestion of cuffs in the same material increase or decrease formality?
Precisely--requesting the cuff be made of the same fabric, in my view, decreases formality. I will see if I can find reliable sources regarding a formality classification of shirts such as the Winchester. Thanks for the suggestion. I really appreciate your input. ~Sonya
sonya, thanks a lot for the prompt reply. now that you mention it, i recall hearing that it does seem to have a strong connotation with wall street. judging by your explanation, i'm guessing it would be inappropriate to have a knit tie together with the winchester shirt as it would create a clash between casual and corporate, at least if the shirt has both white cuffs and collar.
I tend to agree with your analysis! When wearing a tie, knowing basic pattern combining tips and going with your mood seems to work best, I think. ~S
What's the origins of that classic the harrington jacket I've got one and will probably buy another colour, I've got black. Also what's the origins of the twin tipped tennis shirt because I've bought a brand that dates to 1940s and Fred Perry which is hellishly more expensive but I suppose you pay for the brand and the made in UK label.
Baracuta (a British company) apparently introduced the Harrington style (also known as G9) in the 1930s...with the name Harrington taken from a character in a 1960s soap called "Peyton Place". The jacket is lightweight and roomy and Elvis Presley, Steve McQueen, Frank Sinatra and James Dean owned a Harrington. I'm not sure about the tipped tennis shirt (must investigate!). Thanks for your great questions. ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 thanks sonya I feel embarrassed as I only have 1 suit but 4 double cuff shirts and 5 sets of cufflinks so I'm slowly building up my wardrobe. Thanks again
@@vincentmoohanbuddie5392 There's nothing wrong with new beginnings---in fact they can be beautiful! Thank you for watching. ~Sonya
Would my Harris Tweed Jacket count as a Sports Coat ?
Absolutely ! It is a Sports Coat. Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS
I thought so, Thank You for confirmation.