The suit is not dead, but alive. Many young men want to wear a suit, not because he's some corporate business man, but because it's stylish and he just wants to wear it, and thank God for that! More than once when I've worn a suit jacket to a restaurant, the waiter or waitress has asked me, "what's the occasion?" I just answer, "There is no occasion. I just want to." Brilliant video, as always, Hugo!
@@xLu1G1x exactly, I like dressing up, and I don't need an occasion. Gosh, I hope the suit isn't dead. I enjoy them, and I think men look their best in a nicely fitting suit.
I “dress up” everyday not because I have to but because I control my image and greatly enjoy messwear, when people ask what the occasion is I tell them, “seeing you!”
I show up at union meetings with blazer, smart shirt, jeans , proper shoes and ... a pocket square. First question? "Did you come from a wedding?" in jeans...
Yes Todd. Stupid question indeed. Sonya wrote on the subject on our website a while ago : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/03/23/executive-and-peer-pressure-to-dress-down-really/ Cheers, Hugo
same to me, one day i went to the office with blazer, shirt and chinos...."are u going to a job interview?". From that day, for every day i wore blazer, also suits.
Showed up this week for a belated Christmas party on a blazer, chino, vest, dress shirt and an oxblood derby and got the same comment. “You do realize this is a Christmas party and not a wedding?” Even some of my friends warned me that I’d be overdressed at the event. But I swore I stopped caring about being over dressed a long time ago. True enough I was overdressed. But I felt so good and confident in that event :) I just pity those who have never felt the comfort of the vest hugging your torso as you sat to eat and the convenience of a blazer’s multiple pockets.
"The rebels have changed. We are today, the rebels." haha I like that. Wearing a suit that stands out and gets comments and compliments is just one of the absolute best feelings! I have no intention of ever changing my style to anything but my own personal passions!
I’m a grade 10 student, and I can attest to the fact that dressing better is seen as more of a rebellious kind of thing. I wear a tweed jacket and an OCBD with denim to school most days, and I always got asked if I was going for a job interview, or a wedding. Now it’s just been accepted, with some even trying themselves to dress a bit better, ie a sweater and dark wash jeans. There is definitely a strong interest in classic style in my generation, they just need a bit more exposure to quality items.
haha nice, i usually wear a thin sweater or solid button up with chinos and blutches/sneakers with a dark overcoat/gloves and the occasional scarf, its a great feeling to be comfortable in ones clothes yk
That is so true, i really have only been dressing smarter for just over a year now, in this short time, i have been asked so many times- was i up at/in court, or going to wedding, i stayed with it however, and the rewards out-way by far the sometimes silly remarks you might get. one thing i did notice is the remarks are less as your own confidence grows, so if am honest people like yourself and your wonderful books and talks have helped the suit but in general classic men's style to reach it new height.. .so thanks for that. another video Hugo
Brilliant video, spot on. I don't wear a suit, smart casual is my forte. I also weat streetwear/rugged/casual sometimes, but most of the time it's smart casual, at most business casual. I don't have the courage to wear a suit and a tie unless it's a special occasion or if I'm a lawyer or whatever. However, I admire the ones wearing them.
It's good to see a proper attire. Props to you for going a level up to most people with smart casual. Also, there's nothing to be afraid of when it comes to formal clothes. If you like it, give it a chance, no matter what other people say to you :)
I’m in the same boat, I’m trying to build the courage to wear a suit(because I want to) but business casual is the classiest attire most wear in my area.
Thank you for speaking up for people who pursuit not only functionality but spirituality, the elegant lifestyle. Beauty is never a dispensable but a vital part of human life. Thank you Hugo.
Thomas Lai , I subscribed to you because of your wonderful words and the fact that you have J.S Bach as your profile picture, and also I wanted to make somebody happy :) By the way, what are your favorite Bach pieces?
I think a good analogy is the watch industry, which was pronounced dead or dying some years back because of cell phones and computers and so many "newer and better" ways to tell time. What we have seen instead is a resurgence in traditional watches and the automatic movements are thriving. And not just in established expensive brands like Rolex or Omega. Look at brands like Orient or Tissot or even Timex, which is selling more expensive models. Look at how many watch startups are out there like MVMT or Vincero or Shinola. The industry is very much alive, and so is the suit industry. It is indeed true that suit wearers are the new rebels, and younger men are discovering that dressing is much more than blue jeans and t shirts. It's an exciting time for tailoring, indeed!
This is beautiful conversation. I have had many moments in my life where I keep choosing to wear a suit. Listening to Hugo's talk it confirms the positivity of choice. By that I mean that like choice the suit is individual, not a cloned egalitarian stamp. He demonstrates implicitly that we have moved into a time that will be even better; more choice, more variations and stronger character. Higher individual values. I am enjoying this channel.
Past: Wearing a suit for the sake of it Present: Wearing a suit for the love of it Humans are always thinking of ways to change the present, thus the present is always changing, and at the same time it has become much more fuller and tautological.
Suit, and elegance in general, will never die. We are just assaulted by every media to force us to give up on beauty, art, style, quality. Long life to elegance and beauty. Only with beauty we'll be able to elevate our life.
Hugo, thanks for these words and the research you made about wearing a suit and elegance. I do a lot of home office and usually dress shirt, wool trousers and well shined shoes. No one has told me to stop doing it. It seems that everyone at home, or the few clients and partners I visit, more than welcome to see a well dressed man.
I joined this channel a couple of months ago... have been playing catch-up with the videos... great view of things and amazing information on this one.
This is really classy, I had watched too many channels in the past couple of years, they have content which is ok but not classy as yours. Your passion is really contagious:) thank you.
Hello Hugo, It would be great if in the future you would do an episode where you explain the uses of the suit in different contexts or professions. Thanks again, Germán
Haha, that's a funny comment. I don't want to lead you into any battle except the one for a more elegant world maybe ? Thanks for the compliment anyway, Hugo
Good point, very true. I love to wear a good suit and classic men's style but I actually got complaints from co-workers that I was too smart! This explains the dandy style, it is simply a natural extension of rebellion and self-expression
Very interesting pitch and I can only confirm this. It has to do with a certain attitude towards yourself and others to present yourself with confidence in an elegant manner.
Thank you so much Hugo, what a great and important video. The point about the well dressed being the rebels nowadays is frustrating. Wearing a suit can grab attention in places where it's not wanted. Makes it difficult for a man who just wants to dress well to enjoy his clothes. Also, interesting survey you mentioned, might show how much elegance is actually valued despite it not being that clear to the public.
Thank you Koussay. You'll have to accustom yourself to this new rebel identity, because it will last for a while. But if the women are on our side, then we are safe !! Hugo
The suit will eventually die in the end because people are not exposed to the world of Men's Style. That is why we still have people like you Sir Hugo who show us the transition from the the traditional way of men's style to the modern way of men's style. So I will really appreciate if people who are exposed to the world of men's style or have knowledge in the Sartorial Style to share the knowledge. This can be done by starting blogs and vlogs, magazines and using other social media platforms because suits were there before us; they are still here with us; and they will be there after us. So we cannot afford to play with our great-grandfathers, grandfathers and our fathers dignity of wearing suits because a perfect tailored suit (or even ready-to-wear suits) draws a line between any other man and "a Gentleman"
I think you are globally right. However, a lot of blogs, forums, TH-cam channels already exist and are speaking in favor of classic men's style. And the community, even if maybe not for now noticeable in the streets, is growing pretty fast. Yours, Hugo
Your point is so accurate about people assuming you are going to a specific event if you are in anything to do with a tie or suit. Thank you for the video.
I started with real men real style, then found Ralph Schneider’s channel and in 2020 I found sartorial talks. I realized that my sartorial journey is upgrading little by little. I started with jeans and shirts with leather shoes. In 2019, chinos, blazers and t shirts with leather shoes. I am still far off from suits but I have started going out with dress shirts, blazers and even vests (all the while getting comments). Who knows what the future holds. I am so lucky to have found these channels. Despite the awkwardness of being well dressed, “being an elegant rebel” does have a nice ring to it and make me feel less conscious when going out well dressed for no reason other than “I like the feel of dressing up.” :)
Je ne savais pas que vous aviez aussi un compte TH-cam en anglais ! Votre travail est multiplié par deux, j’apprécie le geste et vous encourage dans cette démarche. Thanks a lot Mr Jacomet :)
In Germany there's this trend to go mostly casual sporty. A hybrid if you might like to call it: T-Shirt with jacket and jeans. Doesn't matter if you wear dress shoes or sneakers as long as it is dynamic. Always ready to take your jacket off and play some football with your friends.
Having worked in shoe repair ,for a great many years of my youth.Into my adult years. I saw the decline of men in America repairing, and maintaining their foot wear. My teacher and mentor was an Italian-American gentleman Cobbler. He had made a prediction that men would begin to wear running shoes and sneakers with their suits in everyday wear. Sadly standards fell so much in America. That John Caporales prescient prediction came true...This was apparent from 1979 thru today. Most sadly.... Thank You Hugo for more inspiring talk about Suiting and fashion...My very best wishes to you. Good Sir. Always. Stephen Tessier....
Great video! I love being a rebel and wear clothes that I love. For the tie, especially, I believe that men avoid it for 3 reasons: They do not know how to choose proper collar size They do not know how to tie a proper knot They do not know how to combine it. Keep up the good job!
Great video, I totally agree and experience everything you describe daily. When we started a commercial real estate firm in 2006 we decided to wear suits daily (because no one else in the market did), and we continue that now. The casual effect started in the early 2000's in Portland!
Hugo, this is a great video on an important subject. You have articulated this issue excellently. I can attest that my new bank job doesn't require a suit and tie. However, I choose to wear my suits and ties at work because it makes me feel good. I definitely stand out among other bank leaders who dress business casual. Thank you, my friend.
When I wear a suit, I feel empowered. I would never meet a client without wearing a suit. Wearing a suit shows respect. Wearing a suit shows you are able to conform.
A suit is like armor for men, and has the effect of lingerie upon women. It instantly changes the nature of a man. The way a man behaves and carries himself, as well as how people treat him. A man is his most powerful self when wearing a suit. Think I am wrong ? You would be hard pressed to find someone disrespect you when wearing a suit. Another fantastic video Hugo, bravo !
When I started back at university this year I elevated my style totally. Gone we’re jeans and t-shirts and I began wearing suits, bow ties, pocket squares to the point where my peers all asked why. 7 weeks in and now if I am in anything casual my friends all look at me like I’m an alien. It’s so heartening to see a change in a short space of time and yet I feel sad, mainly because many of my friends will always look at a suit as an obligation not as a pleasure in the way I do.
That's a great testimony Adam. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. And we are working hard (and almost preaching everyday ) to wake people up and make them experience suiting as a pleasure more than an obligation. Cheers, Hugo
"Every generation gets the taste it deserves" to me is so true, I kind of hate the over usage of casual style in daily life, it looks like nobody knows how to dress well anymore - depending on where you are, for sure. I grew up in Germany and I always admired the style of my grandfather, who himself worked as fashion design sketcher for men suits for a local business (when local production was still a thing, nowadays it is gone). He always wore beautiful suits and ties, even on those Saturday mornings when went to the farmers market. To me, it always was and still is the imagination of a well-dressed man. I'd also say it is a form of good manners and respect towards the people you're dealing with, a form of healthy self-discipline. The people I see in the streets today when I'm in my hometown, they all look like they just put out the garbage and are going back to lay on their sofa, 'Casual' has become a very bad word in fashion. It can even be very expensive but still looks sloppy. It is for sure not that bad in every European country, you see a lot of well-dressed men (and women) in Italy and France, which certainly might come from them being capitals of fashion and tailoring craftsmanship but every time I am there it also feels like it's more rooted in their culture and attitude. Like a well-chosen perfume that suits a person perfectly. Intuitively. To me, putting on a suit after a perfectly ironed dress shirt and a tie is like putting on a knight's armour. It's not a question of formality, it is my personal feeling of a sharp look that one can't get from wearing sweatpants and a t-shirt with sneakers. To me, the suit will never die, even though the cut might be redefined, the silhouette might change but in the end, in my opinion, it will remain the definition of a well-dressed man and I don't think that every primary change of a generation is always a good one. There is nothing better than a well-cut suit form a nice fabric, accompanied by a neat watch and (Italian) dress shoes and it's far away from being old-fashioned in a bad way. I think grandpa would agree. Thanks a lot for your great video!
The "casualization" of our culture will progress further and automated mass production has already made sartorial activities a niche experience. That makes "our club" even more exclusive! 😄
"Activists of the Seven-Fold Tie" - that sounds like a rebel group in a dystopian future! Of course, HJ is the leader of the resistance. Or will it be SGN? :)
Hugo, you really hit the nail on the head here. I started making considerable changes to my wardrobe within the past year by showing up to work in well fitted-shirts, trousers, polished oxfords, ties, etc... in an office full of faded chinos, T-shirts, and sneakers. Immediately started getting the "oh, going to a job interview today?" comments. I've continued to improve my wardrobe since and people have pretty much just gotten used to it. Since starting my transformation, I can't help but now notice how poorly dressed most of the public really is. My GF and I will dress up for monthly theater events or nights out on the town (nice dress/ 3-piece suit) and often feel overdressed vs. most of the other attendees. I wouldn't say the suit is dead, but I definitely don't see as many as I'd like to these days (let alone well-fitting ones!) Probably came off as a snob, but oh well. Great video as always!
No I don't feel any snob attitude in your comment. Just the fact that living in an inelegant world is sometimes not so easy and that you would like to see our community grow faster. But it's David against Goliath in terms of fire power. But remember that David became King. Hugo
Lovely video, I am 67 and have been wearing dark bespoke suits w/o a tie for everyday wear. Years a ago a suit without a tie and white shirt was daring.
A seven-fold tie with an English Drape suit? Too retro? Hmmm I must say that your presentation is superb. A Parsian's Parisian. Your videos are a joy. Thank You
One of your best videos yet, a real eye opener! Personally, i don't mind people dressing down to 'smart' levels (chinos, sport jackets or even cardigans etc) but the shoes... i really hate the sneaker phenomenon. We've got to the point where the major style channels and forums are addressing the minimal white sneaker as your most important shoe, because 'you can just wear them with anything, including your navy suit'. Would love to hear your input on the modern business casual or casual friday wear. Thanks for the videos, really appreciate your content!
Thank you Viktor. We wrote a few thoughts on the subject, but on a broader scale : "the peer-pressure to dress down" on Parisian Gentleman : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/03/23/executive-and-peer-pressure-to-dress-down-really/ Otherwise on the subject of sneakers my opinion is simple : there are times for dress shoes and times for casual sneakers (that are more more interesting by the way these last years). Cheers, Hugo
I came into work with a shal collar sweater and people got upset. You try to improve yourself even a little and people try to bring you down to their level.
Thank you so much for the time you take to produce these amazing educational videos. Your videos have been inspirational. I have been making a effort to dress more elegant. You are 100% correct, to start with I received a number of comments from my work colleagues, are you going to a wedding, job interview etc etc. Why the tie and suit. To start with it knocked my confidence, however I held the line and continue to dress well. I am glad I did, I get many compliments saying that I am setting a new standard of smart dress code in the office. A number of ladies have told me to continue as they could not believe the transformation and professionalism the suit and tie bring to the work place. Is the suit dead, for me it is a new lease of life, I will not look back. To dress well is a privilege and to be encouraged. Keep up your amazing channel. David
The holy truth! Satorial Talks really impressed me. The story about meeting your wife and the changing of your view about religion was touching. All the Best to you and your love. We all know, finally the best shoes and the sharpest suits are worthless if you don't feel loved by someone! Please keep on going writing and talking! Kind regards Peter
I remember planning to go to a musical or some sort of show after work, and so I brought to the office a charcoal grey suit and tie. The dress code is business casual sans jeans (but you can be in, oh...let's say chinos, or khakis) so immediately everybody asked me where i was going and whether I had an interview. So what Hugo is talking about at about 7:00 is quite accurate. Is the suit dead? No, not really, but for most people the tuxedo is dead. And the suit is reserved for super formal occasions, such as a wedding. Or prom.
Thank you for your contribution. I hope this global situation will change. We are indeed witnessing, in Europe at least, a little revival of men's classic style. And it will eventually reach the USA. Best, Hugo
Suit is still very much alive. In many places of work, especially corporate and governmental, suit is expected when meetings or senior leadership visits are scheduled; even if the every day dress code is business casual.
Nice video, as always. If you do not mind me pointing another fact, with the "IT" generation of 90-00's we saw many examples of "geeks" making lots of money, almost none of them wore suits, and with news shouting "oh look, another geek got *** millions for his company", and a picture of a person in worn jeans, old t-shirts, etc. Of course, the younger generation grown on those news, started to wear old clothes to pretend to be like those tech geeks. As you pointed out, they were never interested in suits. But for us, people wearing suits, not because we have to, but because we love it, it's a whole new story. Le Suit est mort, vive le Suit!
Thanks ! Sonya wrote on the subject on our website here : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/03/23/executive-and-peer-pressure-to-dress-down-really/ Cheers, Hugo
I started wearing a shirt, tie, suspenders, tie bar and suit pants everyday to my barbershop. Soon I’ll be getting a 3 piece suit so I can wear the vest when I’m cutting hair and the whole suit when I’m not in the shop. I live in the mountains I get compliments everyday.
Great content Hugo. Your argument is spot on. I would only further highlight the move to casual by the high fashion industry at large. Thankfully bespoke tailoring remains alive and well.
The high fashion industry in menswear has gone "all in" with the casual trend since a few years. If you look at a Berluti shop window nowadays, it display only sneakers (even in the historical shop of Rue Marbeuf in Paris). Not even one pair of the iconic "Alessandro' whole cut or the famous "Warhol" loafer. But the tailoring aficionados community is growing everyday, thank God ! Hugo
as alway a pleasure to listen you speak about what transcends the common definition of sartorial which is in fact a way of life and how you perceive reality and react to it. this essential way of being transpires in every gesture and word you speak. i wish you all the best and id close in with a question that i came to ponder on today: how about linen suits? will you make a video about those? i came about this question while reading about panama hats and how they are made.
Great point and analysis Hugo! A perfect example is during a scene in the movie The Intern, with Robert DeNiro and Anne Hathaway, when Anne H looks at a group of unkept guys and then at DeNiro and instantly just gets it!
Here here for a more elegant world. Hugo has inspired me to create a high quality bespoke tailoring guide for South East Asia. I don't think such a guide exist yet and most bespoke suits made in asia are budget suits with half canvases.
If you want your guide to be published on our website Parisian Gentleman, please send it to us. Such a guide would interest a lot of people in our community and we can help making its reading big. Drop an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr Cheers, Hugo
Preach! Hahahaha, that was a very good closing statement. And as usual, it's a nice, important topic yet there are lack of people who discuss it. It's a very nice analysis on how culture changes and we, style aficionados, become the counterculture of it. Keep up the great contents, cheers!
The well designed, well tailored suit is too strong of a work of art to ever go away. It will always reestablish itself. The video was outstanding, but the last three minutes in particular are pure gold. Certain types of casual clothing carry little or no visual power. They tire the eye. Women will actually brush their hands across the chest and lapel of a well made, well fitted suit. Tell me any other item of clothing that can do that. Anything that can create that type of response from women isn't going anywhere, ever.
You nailed it on the head. I guess I have become more attracted to dressing well as people have moved more and more towards being casual. Dressing well is the new rebellious expression. I take a lot of inspiration from the 60s, while adding modernity to it especially when it comes to fit. I recently got hired at a great job at a large corporation. During the interview they told me that they recently pushed for a change in the dress code so now people can wear jeans. I will respectfully decline that privilege. A T-Shirt paired with some nice jeans will always be a wardrobe staple on a casual day out, as I like variety in my fashion but there is a time and place for everything.
I love wearing suit with my cowboy boots but I feel a bit awkward when I do as I live in a pretty casual city (people would wear short/jean with tshirt to a dinner or bar). I always overdress and stick out like a sore thumb wherever I go with the suit. On some occasion, was even made fun of for being overdressed. Once or twice my friend also complained that I make them look bad being in a suit and all. So how do I own it? Wearing a nice suit with confidence without feeling like all eyes are watching me? That's something I've been struggling with.
So many fantastic comments here which support the suit. I can't add much more to them but second all of the comments. I myself don't wear one often because of the smart casual requirement of work but I conpletely agree that the suit is a statement of elegance and refinement that very few items of clothing can reach. An excellent video
Death to the suit....long live the suit! Thank you Hugo for another informative video. I would have never thought being dressed in a suit/tie/pocket square would make me a rebel! Somewhere, James Dean must be laughing. I await your next video!
Dear Mr. Jacomet, I write you in english because of my french at the present is too much poor to write You properly. I'm an Italian cultural journalist studying french language, and I decided to adopt your accent and your intonation of voice ad model of perfection. Your accent is really amazing and your rhetoric is rich and pleasant. I have only a question about your accent, and of course about You: are you a natural born parisian? Is your accent a parisian accent or a more neutral french accent? Thank you very much!
Dear Leonardo, I'm am born in Paris and lived pretty much all my life in Paris. But i've been raised in the center of France until 18 years old. So my French accent is probably neutral. Bonne soirée, Hugo
Dear monsieur Jacomet, As a Dutch citizen I ride a bike almost everyday. Therefore my pantalons tend to wear out much faster. What kind of fabric/wool blend would you recommend? Also I want to thank you for the recommendation of Tommy Page in response to a previous question of mine, the store has truely won me over! Kind regards, AGP
I'm so happy that you met Tommy! For your pants, i would go for some sturdy flannel and, as you bike a lot, so natural stretch flannel. The only flannel that features both is the Rugby Flannel by Drago. Hugo
I straight up love this video. I have recently changed my style and begun to put more button ups in it and just that alone has surprised people. It's kind of a shame actually
Thanks to the Internet, there are now many young (or not so young) men who have more knowledge of classic style than had ever been possible. Yes, ladies love when a man is dressed up. I'm surprised JP Morgan would prohibit neckties; it's absolutely ridiculous. There still is a bunch of institutions that absolutely require neckties and jackets, and there certainly are circles where formal attire is expected.
Good evening, in fact JP Morgan did not totally prohibit necktie and formal business attires, but largely loosen its codes, in order to adapt to the new lifestyle (more "relax") of the clientele. So I admit to have slightly exaggerated the fact in order to emphasize my message. But on the other hand, it's a good example. Another good example would be that the necktie is no more mandatory at the French Parliament and that many congressmen show up tieless in order to appear more "modern" because they think you have to look "cool" to gain electors. And concerning your last point on remaining institutions that require jacket and tie, I'm sorry to say that they are less and less in a City like Paris. Yours, Hugo
I believe this video is nothing more than the whole essence of Parisian Gentleman. Furthermore, I really felt empathy when you said that we are the rebels nowadays. It is very sad and very true that in today's society most people are completely subjugated by mass marketing and sometimes, if not most times, they do not really make their own choices even when they think they do. That is why I believe a rebel is not only who wears wonderfully crafted tailoring, but also anybody who truly understands his own style and personality, feeling confident in being himself/herself. A rebel is a person who exercises her/his critical thinking on a daily basis in everything she/he does and does not take things for established just because somebody else said so. A rebel is a person who is able to decide what suits him/her freely.
Thank you so much for your wonderful videos. May I please ask you about your opinion on neckwear? I have lived in Asia for decades and lament my expensive neckties being splattered with oily foods, sauces, seasonings, etc. I wonder about your opinion and insights on the “ BOLO TIE” bearing in mind that some are extremely beautiful works of Art with precious stones gold silver and unique designs. The dry cleaning bill is zero! Many Asian women find them intriguing and it’s a great conversation starter
I have been working in asset management companies in the City of London and the dress code has moved from suit and tie to dress down fridays to smart casual from the 90s to now.
World has become so much smaller with all the modern technology compared to the age of when classic men's style was developed by the English (as you spoke about in another video, which was great btw). With most of the population living in denser areas, this probably gave the rise to (also more cheaper mass produced) urban, street/casual style being more acceptable over the classic styles. The social structure, balance and environment also has lot to do with it. Most of the jobs done by the middle class hardly ever requires a suit anymore and becoming even less as you say, except for a few occupations. Whenever I put on a suit and even just walking through my own neighborhood i feel overdressed compared to everyone around me; even without a tie! But regardless of that, personally I hope to be able to get a bespoke tailored suit one day. At least after watching your videos I know a little bit more about what to look for and how to recognize quality and craftmanship.
The suit isn't dead, but it definitely needs to be applied judiciously. As you noted, going to a sales meeting with a customer with a suit and tie has the potential to make them feel like they are being audited. Also, a suit can be off-putting and give the impression of being unapproachable. IMHO, a smart blazer, paired with a pocket square and high quality shoes has the same impact that a suit "used to" have in this type of meeting. Being too well dressed as a sales person can often have the customer analyzing whether or not they are paying too much for the solution/product. As a business leader, when presenting to a large group of 100+ or more, a suit is the easiest way to not make the mistake of being under dressed. Thank you for the great content and also for the recommendation of Cobbler Union shoe company.
Now that I am semi retired, how would a sartorial person dress down...you know not quite casual Fridays, nor outright street so I having difficulty establishing a signature style for this moment in my life. What are your thoughts?
Follow your envies now that you can wear whatever you want. Don't restrain yourself and express who you are at this very moment of your life. Give it a thought and you will find. Cheers, Hugo
As someone in my 20s who works in the professional services that you bring up as an example, I have to say that the direction that financial and legal institutions are going in is a good move. More and more businesses and individuals who are making their wealth come from industries that do not have a rigid dress code, such as tech and IT services. These people want to have their finances and legal services handled by people they can relate with and have rapport with, and the full "business formal" attire is seen as setting oneself apart and creating a social gap between us and them, hence the call to dress down. The suit is gradually leaving the professional world as a uniform, and I think that is a good thing as well. When worn as a uniform, a suit is a work obligation and breeds resentment among those required to wear them. When a suit is worn by choice rather than as a requirement, there is more breathing room for creativity and self-expression. I welcome the suit joining the world of personal clothing. I want the suit to be a form of self-expression rather than a resented symbol of conformity.
In my work I meet people at their homes. When they say they feel under dressed, I just remind them of the occasion. They are home and properly dressed. I am at work, and I am properly dressed. Honestly I mostly get compliments about my outfits.
In the last video, Sonya talked about shoulder styles, which caused me to start paying attention to the shoulders. Here in the Netherlands, most men seem to be wearing suits with "British shoulders", but I couldn't really tell what Germans were doing. Is there a certain, defined German style of shoulders (or suits in general) or is the German style very eclectic?
The German shoulder style is very British, and super conservative. Our friend and contributor Bernhard Roetzel is currently preparing for PG a huge review of the best tailors in Germany. Stay tuned! Cheers, Hugo
Traditional Black suit doesn't attracts any more because too many second car dealers and insurance men and middlemen wear them as uniform, not to mention the security guards. Once I was mistaken as a menial labor in a 5-star hotel because I wear black suit. But on the other hand casual suits and jackets are definitely thriving, people grew sick of fully canvassed armor like suits, but more attracted in napoli style unstructured jackets. me myself has like 30 some casual suits which look very nice and definitely doesn't confuse other people of my occupation. Also the English and French style suits are losing market share too cuz people don't want to appear too formal. Anyway a nice suit still gets you LOTs of women's attention and make them fond of you, especially when other men are in Ts and jeans and sneakers.
Thanks for your comment. I slightly disagree with you when you qualify the black suit as "traditional". In fact grey and blue suits are traditional. Black is more occasional. by definition. Cheers, Hugo
Suits are still fairly popular down on Wall Street. I wear one everyday and love it. I get treated better where ever I go and women still love it. The big difference is that most of us buy MTM, custom or bespoke. The prices have really come down and you can get a great fitting suit at a good price.
"a little bit more elegance in this brutal and inelegant world is highly required" very well said!!
Thank you Sean, we need more people like you in the world. Hugo
The suit is not dead, but alive. Many young men want to wear a suit, not because he's some corporate business man, but because it's stylish and he just wants to wear it, and thank God for that! More than once when I've worn a suit jacket to a restaurant, the waiter or waitress has asked me, "what's the occasion?" I just answer, "There is no occasion. I just want to."
Brilliant video, as always, Hugo!
Thanks my friend for sharing your experience. Cheers, Hugo
That is totally true. I have 23 and every single time I wear a suit or blazer, people ask me that.
@@xLu1G1x exactly, I like dressing up, and I don't need an occasion. Gosh, I hope the suit isn't dead. I enjoy them, and I think men look their best in a nicely fitting suit.
I'm 43, I'm wearing blazer and tie nearly every working day since I was 15, and people still asking nearly time
I “dress up” everyday not because I have to but because I control my image and greatly enjoy messwear, when people ask what the occasion is I tell them, “seeing you!”
I show up at union meetings with blazer, smart shirt, jeans , proper shoes and ... a pocket square. First question? "Did you come from a wedding?" in jeans...
Yes Todd. Stupid question indeed. Sonya wrote on the subject on our website a while ago : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/03/23/executive-and-peer-pressure-to-dress-down-really/
Cheers, Hugo
same to me, one day i went to the office with blazer, shirt and chinos...."are u going to a job interview?". From that day, for every day i wore blazer, also suits.
lmao
Showed up this week for a belated Christmas party on a blazer, chino, vest, dress shirt and an oxblood derby and got the same comment. “You do realize this is a Christmas party and not a wedding?”
Even some of my friends warned me that I’d be overdressed at the event. But I swore I stopped caring about being over dressed a long time ago.
True enough I was overdressed. But I felt so good and confident in that event :) I just pity those who have never felt the comfort of the vest hugging your torso as you sat to eat and the convenience of a blazer’s multiple pockets.
"The rebels have changed. We are today, the rebels." haha I like that. Wearing a suit that stands out and gets comments and compliments is just one of the absolute best feelings! I have no intention of ever changing my style to anything but my own personal passions!
Yes Garrett, we are the new rebels indeed. And it feels good right ? Best, Hugo
Love your outlook, if holding oneself with class and integrity is rebellious I sir plead guilty
Case dismissed. You're free! Hugo
I’m a grade 10 student, and I can attest to the fact that dressing better is seen as more of a rebellious kind of thing. I wear a tweed jacket and an OCBD with denim to school most days, and I always got asked if I was going for a job interview, or a wedding. Now it’s just been accepted, with some even trying themselves to dress a bit better, ie a sweater and dark wash jeans. There is definitely a strong interest in classic style in my generation, they just need a bit more exposure to quality items.
Wow, I'm so happy to read this ! Thank you so much young man for your contribution. Best, Hugo
haha nice, i usually wear a thin sweater or solid button up with chinos and blutches/sneakers with a dark overcoat/gloves and the occasional scarf, its a great feeling to be comfortable in ones clothes yk
That is so true, i really have only been dressing smarter for just over a year now, in this short time, i have been asked so many times- was i up at/in court, or going to wedding, i stayed with it however, and the rewards out-way by far the sometimes silly remarks you might get. one thing i did notice is the remarks are less as your own confidence grows, so if am honest people like yourself and your wonderful books and talks have helped the suit but in general classic men's style to reach it new height.. .so thanks for that. another video Hugo
Thank you so much Gerry for your insightful comment and your kind words. All my best, Hugo
Brilliant video, spot on. I don't wear a suit, smart casual is my forte. I also weat streetwear/rugged/casual sometimes, but most of the time it's smart casual, at most business casual. I don't have the courage to wear a suit and a tie unless it's a special occasion or if I'm a lawyer or whatever. However, I admire the ones wearing them.
Thanks for your honest and interesting contribution. Cheers, Hugo
It's good to see a proper attire. Props to you for going a level up to most people with smart casual. Also, there's nothing to be afraid of when it comes to formal clothes. If you like it, give it a chance, no matter what other people say to you :)
I’m in the same boat, I’m trying to build the courage to wear a suit(because I want to) but business casual is the classiest attire most wear in my area.
Fantastic episode. As a lawyer in the City of London, a lot of this rings true!
Thanks Bob. Hugo
Thank you for speaking up for people who pursuit not only functionality but spirituality, the elegant lifestyle. Beauty is never a dispensable but a vital part of human life. Thank you Hugo.
Thank you Thomas for for wise and kind words. Hugo
Thomas Lai
, I subscribed to you because of your wonderful words and the fact that you have J.S Bach as your profile picture, and also I wanted to make somebody happy :)
By the way, what are your favorite Bach pieces?
I think a good analogy is the watch industry, which was pronounced dead or dying some years back because of cell phones and computers and so many "newer and better" ways to tell time. What we have seen instead is a resurgence in traditional watches and the automatic movements are thriving. And not just in established expensive brands like Rolex or Omega. Look at brands like Orient or Tissot or even Timex, which is selling more expensive models. Look at how many watch startups are out there like MVMT or Vincero or Shinola. The industry is very much alive, and so is the suit industry. It is indeed true that suit wearers are the new rebels, and younger men are discovering that dressing is much more than blue jeans and t shirts. It's an exciting time for tailoring, indeed!
Yes the analogy with the timepieces craftsmanship is very relevant. Thank you for your contribution. Hugo
This is beautiful conversation. I have had many moments in my life where I keep choosing to wear a suit.
Listening to Hugo's talk it confirms the positivity of choice. By that I mean that like choice the suit is individual, not a cloned egalitarian stamp.
He demonstrates implicitly that we have moved into a time that will be even better; more choice, more variations and stronger character. Higher individual values.
I am enjoying this channel.
Thank you so much for an lovely comment and for your appreciation. Hugo
Past: Wearing a suit for the sake of it
Present: Wearing a suit for the love of it
Humans are always thinking of ways to change the present, thus the present is always changing, and at the same time it has become much more fuller and tautological.
Interesting point of view Cris. Thanks, Hugo
Probably the most knowledgable person on gentlemen’s attire and lifestyle. I admire this person a lot.
That may be an understatement, by thank you for your kindness and appreciation. Yours, Hugo
Suit, and elegance in general, will never die. We are just assaulted by every media to force us to give up on beauty, art, style, quality. Long life to elegance and beauty. Only with beauty we'll be able to elevate our life.
Wise sors Alessio. Thank you. Hugo
Hugo, thanks for these words and the research you made about wearing a suit and elegance. I do a lot of home office and usually dress shirt, wool trousers and well shined shoes. No one has told me to stop doing it. It seems that everyone at home, or the few clients and partners I visit, more than welcome to see a well dressed man.
This was a fantastic topic on suits. I was glued to every word.
I joined this channel a couple of months ago... have been playing catch-up with the videos... great view of things and amazing information on this one.
This is really classy, I had watched too many channels in the past couple of years, they have content which is ok but not classy as yours. Your passion is really contagious:) thank you.
Oh, that's very kind of you. Thank you so much for your encouragements and consideration. Hugo
Long live to the suit! Thank you for this new episode of ST.
You are very welcome! Hugo
Hello Hugo,
It would be great if in the future you would do an episode where you explain the uses of the suit in different contexts or professions.
Thanks again, Germán
Hugo's Charisma is frightening. He could lead me into battle and I would trust him without a doubt 🌌
Haha, that's a funny comment. I don't want to lead you into any battle except the one for a more elegant world maybe ? Thanks for the compliment anyway, Hugo
Good point, very true. I love to wear a good suit and classic men's style but I actually got complaints from co-workers that I was too smart! This explains the dandy style, it is simply a natural extension of rebellion and self-expression
Yes Daniel you are perfectly right. Hugo
Very interesting pitch and I can only confirm this. It has to do with a certain attitude towards yourself and others to present yourself with confidence in an elegant manner.
Thank you so much Hugo, what a great and important video.
The point about the well dressed being the rebels nowadays is frustrating. Wearing a suit can grab attention in places where it's not wanted. Makes it difficult for a man who just wants to dress well to enjoy his clothes. Also, interesting survey you mentioned, might show how much elegance is actually valued despite it not being that clear to the public.
Thank you Koussay. You'll have to accustom yourself to this new rebel identity, because it will last for a while. But if the women are on our side, then we are safe !! Hugo
The suit will eventually die in the end because people are not exposed to the world of Men's Style. That is why we still have people like you Sir Hugo who show us the transition from the the traditional way of men's style to the modern way of men's style. So I will really appreciate if people who are exposed to the world of men's style or have knowledge in the Sartorial Style to share the knowledge. This can be done by starting blogs and vlogs, magazines and using other social media platforms because suits were there before us; they are still here with us; and they will be there after us. So we cannot afford to play with our great-grandfathers, grandfathers and our fathers dignity of wearing suits because a perfect tailored suit (or even ready-to-wear suits) draws a line between any other man and "a Gentleman"
I think you are globally right. However, a lot of blogs, forums, TH-cam channels already exist and are speaking in favor of classic men's style. And the community, even if maybe not for now noticeable in the streets, is growing pretty fast. Yours, Hugo
Your point is so accurate about people assuming you are going to a specific event if you are in anything to do with a tie or suit. Thank you for the video.
Thank you very much Byron for your appreciation. Cheers, Hugo
I started with real men real style, then found Ralph Schneider’s channel and in 2020 I found sartorial talks. I realized that my sartorial journey is upgrading little by little. I started with jeans and shirts with leather shoes. In 2019, chinos, blazers and t shirts with leather shoes. I am still far off from suits but I have started going out with dress shirts, blazers and even vests (all the while getting comments). Who knows what the future holds. I am so lucky to have found these channels. Despite the awkwardness of being well dressed, “being an elegant rebel” does have a nice ring to it and make me feel less conscious when going out well dressed for no reason other than “I like the feel of dressing up.” :)
certainly not dead for me having just bought another recently & another caught my eye whilst there.
Excellent ! Cheers, Hugo
Je ne savais pas que vous aviez aussi un compte TH-cam en anglais ! Votre travail est multiplié par deux, j’apprécie le geste et vous encourage dans cette démarche.
Thanks a lot Mr Jacomet :)
Merci Khalid ! Hugo
In Germany there's this trend to go mostly casual sporty. A hybrid if you might like to call it: T-Shirt with jacket and jeans. Doesn't matter if you wear dress shoes or sneakers as long as it is dynamic. Always ready to take your jacket off and play some football with your friends.
That's an interesting explanation. Thanks Myke. Hugo
Sounds comfy.
I choose to wear a suit I love wearing it. Viva classic men style! You are correct as always Mr. Hugo :)
Thanks Milan, Hugo
Having worked in shoe repair ,for a great many years of my youth.Into my adult years. I saw the decline of men in America repairing, and maintaining their foot wear. My teacher and mentor was an Italian-American gentleman Cobbler. He had made a prediction that men would begin to wear running shoes and sneakers with their suits in everyday wear. Sadly standards fell so much in America. That John Caporales prescient prediction came true...This was apparent from 1979 thru today. Most sadly.... Thank You Hugo for more inspiring talk about Suiting and fashion...My very best wishes to you. Good Sir. Always. Stephen Tessier....
Thank you Stephen, and it's good to know the name of John Caporales. Best, Hugo
Great video!
I love being a rebel and wear clothes that I love.
For the tie, especially, I believe that men avoid it for 3 reasons:
They do not know how to choose proper collar size
They do not know how to tie a proper knot
They do not know how to combine it.
Keep up the good job!
Thanks George ! Hugo
Great video, I totally agree and experience everything you describe daily. When we started a commercial real estate firm in 2006 we decided to wear suits daily (because no one else in the market did), and we continue that now. The casual effect started in the early 2000's in Portland!
Thanks Bernard for your contribution. I'm sure your clients appreciate. Hugo
Hugo, this is a great video on an important subject. You have articulated this issue excellently. I can attest that my new bank job doesn't require a suit and tie. However, I choose to wear my suits and ties at work because it makes me feel good. I definitely stand out among other bank leaders who dress business casual. Thank you, my friend.
Thanks Ralph for your contribution. See you soon in GA ! Cheers, Hugo
Thank you so much for helping to promote the industry.
When I wear a suit, I feel empowered. I would never meet a client without wearing a suit. Wearing a suit shows respect. Wearing a suit shows you are able to conform.
Thanks Kieran for your contribution. Cheers, Hugo
Absolutely brilliant Hugo!!! This commentary was so insightful and inspiring!!!!❤️🙏🏾
Thank you Devin ! Hugo
A suit is like armor for men, and has the effect of lingerie upon women. It instantly changes the nature of a man. The way a man behaves and carries himself, as well as how people treat him. A man is his most powerful self when wearing a suit. Think I am wrong ? You would be hard pressed to find someone disrespect you when wearing a suit.
Another fantastic video Hugo, bravo !
I agree with your comment Massimo. Thanks, Hugo
So true!
Right!
people disrespect me all the time when im rolling around on the ground begging for money.
i just need bus fare to get back to North Dakota
When I started back at university this year I elevated my style totally. Gone we’re jeans and t-shirts and I began wearing suits, bow ties, pocket squares to the point where my peers all asked why. 7 weeks in and now if I am in anything casual my friends all look at me like I’m an alien. It’s so heartening to see a change in a short space of time and yet I feel sad, mainly because many of my friends will always look at a suit as an obligation not as a pleasure in the way I do.
That's a great testimony Adam. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. And we are working hard (and almost preaching everyday ) to wake people up and make them experience suiting as a pleasure more than an obligation. Cheers, Hugo
"Every generation gets the taste it deserves" to me is so true, I kind of hate the over usage of casual style in daily life, it looks like nobody knows how to dress well anymore - depending on where you are, for sure. I grew up in Germany and I always admired the style of my grandfather, who himself worked as fashion design sketcher for men suits for a local business (when local production was still a thing, nowadays it is gone). He always wore beautiful suits and ties, even on those Saturday mornings when went to the farmers market. To me, it always was and still is the imagination of a well-dressed man. I'd also say it is a form of good manners and respect towards the people you're dealing with, a form of healthy self-discipline. The people I see in the streets today when I'm in my hometown, they all look like they just put out the garbage and are going back to lay on their sofa, 'Casual' has become a very bad word in fashion. It can even be very expensive but still looks sloppy.
It is for sure not that bad in every European country, you see a lot of well-dressed men (and women) in Italy and France, which certainly might come from them being capitals of fashion and tailoring craftsmanship but every time I am there it also feels like it's more rooted in their culture and attitude. Like a well-chosen perfume that suits a person perfectly. Intuitively.
To me, putting on a suit after a perfectly ironed dress shirt and a tie is like putting on a knight's armour.
It's not a question of formality, it is my personal feeling of a sharp look that one can't get from wearing sweatpants and a t-shirt with sneakers. To me, the suit will never die, even though the cut might be redefined, the silhouette might change but in the end, in my opinion, it will remain the definition of a well-dressed man and I don't think that every primary change of a generation is always a good one. There is nothing better than a well-cut suit form a nice fabric, accompanied by a neat watch and (Italian) dress shoes and it's far away from being old-fashioned in a bad way. I think grandpa would agree.
Thanks a lot for your great video!
Dear Sebastian, we are so grateful to receive your comment and we all try to imagine your grand father ! Yours, Hugo & Sonya
Excellent video and you're right Mr. Hugo we are the new Rebels
Yes Alejandro ! Let's resist. Hugo
The "casualization" of our culture will progress further and automated mass production has already made sartorial activities a niche experience. That makes "our club" even more exclusive! 😄
Haha, you may be right. But I would prefer our circle to grow instead of becoming an underground club of activists of the Seven-Fold tie. Hugo
"Activists of the Seven-Fold Tie" - that sounds like a rebel group in a dystopian future!
Of course, HJ is the leader of the resistance. Or will it be SGN? :)
Hugo, you really hit the nail on the head here. I started making considerable changes to my wardrobe within the past year by showing up to work in well fitted-shirts, trousers, polished oxfords, ties, etc... in an office full of faded chinos, T-shirts, and sneakers. Immediately started getting the "oh, going to a job interview today?" comments. I've continued to improve my wardrobe since and people have pretty much just gotten used to it.
Since starting my transformation, I can't help but now notice how poorly dressed most of the public really is. My GF and I will dress up for monthly theater events or nights out on the town (nice dress/ 3-piece suit) and often feel overdressed vs. most of the other attendees. I wouldn't say the suit is dead, but I definitely don't see as many as I'd like to these days (let alone well-fitting ones!)
Probably came off as a snob, but oh well. Great video as always!
No I don't feel any snob attitude in your comment. Just the fact that living in an inelegant world is sometimes not so easy and that you would like to see our community grow faster. But it's David against Goliath in terms of fire power. But remember that David became King. Hugo
Lovely video, I am 67 and have been wearing dark bespoke suits w/o a tie for everyday wear. Years a ago a suit without a tie and white shirt was daring.
It was. Now a great seven-fold tie with a 1950s feel is daring... but so beautiful ! Hugo
A seven-fold tie with an English Drape suit? Too retro? Hmmm
I must say that your presentation is superb. A Parsian's Parisian. Your videos are a joy.
Thank You
One of your best videos yet, a real eye opener! Personally, i don't mind people dressing down to 'smart' levels (chinos, sport jackets or even cardigans etc) but the shoes... i really hate the sneaker phenomenon. We've got to the point where the major style channels and forums are addressing the minimal white sneaker as your most important shoe, because 'you can just wear them with anything, including your navy suit'. Would love to hear your input on the modern business casual or casual friday wear. Thanks for the videos, really appreciate your content!
Thank you Viktor. We wrote a few thoughts on the subject, but on a broader scale : "the peer-pressure to dress down" on Parisian Gentleman : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/03/23/executive-and-peer-pressure-to-dress-down-really/
Otherwise on the subject of sneakers my opinion is simple : there are times for dress shoes and times for casual sneakers (that are more more interesting by the way these last years). Cheers, Hugo
I came into work with a shal collar sweater and people got upset. You try to improve yourself even a little and people try to bring you down to their level.
But the thing is to resist and accepting being an elegant rebel. Hugo
What's the backstory here, where do you work @Panagiotis Skartsilas
@@69elchupacabra69 At a Walmart. All the girls at work liked it but the guys at work gave me crap.
@@pskarts20 The guys are just jealous. Who's approval do you really want, theirs or the girls?
dressing nice/ elegant takes balls, but you stand out, always.
I would have said guts, but I agree with you ! Hugo
I'd like to watch a video about overcoats. Keep making videos. Greetings from Italy
We do our best to provide more videos, but quality takes time my friend ! Hugo
Thank you so much for the time you take to produce these amazing educational videos.
Your videos have been inspirational.
I have been making a effort to dress more elegant.
You are 100% correct, to start with I received a number of comments from my work colleagues, are you going to a wedding, job interview etc etc. Why the tie and suit.
To start with it knocked my confidence, however I held the line and continue to dress well.
I am glad I did, I get many compliments saying that I am setting a new standard of smart dress code in the office.
A number of ladies have told me to continue as they could not believe the transformation and professionalism the suit and tie bring to the work place.
Is the suit dead, for me it is a new lease of life, I will not look back.
To dress well is a privilege and to be encouraged.
Keep up your amazing channel. David
The holy truth! Satorial Talks really impressed me. The story about meeting your wife and the changing of your view about religion was touching. All the Best to you and your love. We all know, finally the best shoes and the sharpest suits are worthless if you don't feel loved by someone! Please keep on going writing and talking! Kind regards Peter
I remember planning to go to a musical or some sort of show after work, and so I brought to the office a charcoal grey suit and tie.
The dress code is business casual sans jeans (but you can be in, oh...let's say chinos, or khakis) so immediately everybody asked me where i was going and whether I had an interview. So what Hugo is talking about at about 7:00 is quite accurate.
Is the suit dead? No, not really, but for most people the tuxedo is dead. And the suit is reserved for super formal occasions, such as a wedding. Or prom.
Thank you for your contribution. I hope this global situation will change. We are indeed witnessing, in Europe at least, a little revival of men's classic style. And it will eventually reach the USA. Best, Hugo
Suit is still very much alive. In many places of work, especially corporate and governmental, suit is expected when meetings or senior leadership visits are scheduled; even if the every day dress code is business casual.
Noooo! Gentlemen will always have a selection of suits. Another wonderful video. Cheers!🍸
Cheers ! And thank you. Hugo
Nice video, as always. If you do not mind me pointing another fact, with the "IT" generation of 90-00's we saw many examples of "geeks" making lots of money, almost none of them wore suits, and with news shouting "oh look, another geek got *** millions for his company", and a picture of a person in worn jeans, old t-shirts, etc. Of course, the younger generation grown on those news, started to wear old clothes to pretend to be like those tech geeks. As you pointed out, they were never interested in suits. But for us, people wearing suits, not because we have to, but because we love it, it's a whole new story. Le Suit est mort, vive le Suit!
Thanks ! Sonya wrote on the subject on our website here : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2016/03/23/executive-and-peer-pressure-to-dress-down-really/
Cheers, Hugo
Oh thank you, I love Sonya's articles, don't know how did I miss that.
I started wearing a shirt, tie, suspenders, tie bar and suit pants everyday to my barbershop. Soon I’ll be getting a 3 piece suit so I can wear the vest when I’m cutting hair and the whole suit when I’m not in the shop. I live in the mountains I get compliments everyday.
Sounds great Dave. Cheers, Hugo
Another great talk by Hugo! The rebels has changed! -Jolly, fan from Hong Kong
Thanks Jolly. Normally, we will be in HK mid-April for a special event. Best ! Hugo
Great content Hugo. Your argument is spot on. I would only further highlight the move to casual by the high fashion industry at large. Thankfully bespoke tailoring remains alive and well.
The high fashion industry in menswear has gone "all in" with the casual trend since a few years. If you look at a Berluti shop window nowadays, it display only sneakers (even in the historical shop of Rue Marbeuf in Paris). Not even one pair of the iconic "Alessandro' whole cut or the famous "Warhol" loafer. But the tailoring aficionados community is growing everyday, thank God ! Hugo
You can pry my suit from my cold, dead hands. Great video, Hugo. I agree wholeheartedly.
Thank you for your kind words, Hugo
Great video as always Hugo.Every video a pleasure..
Thanks Tomaz! Hugo
as alway a pleasure to listen you speak about what transcends the common definition of sartorial which is in fact a way of life and how you perceive reality and react to it. this essential way of being transpires in every gesture and word you speak. i wish you all the best and id close in with a question that i came to ponder on today: how about linen suits? will you make a video about those?
i came about this question while reading about panama hats and how they are made.
Thanks for your kind words ! We spoke about linen suits in this episode : th-cam.com/video/HTMRoPcL4dI/w-d-xo.html
Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS heh, didnt get to watch all episodes, yet. thanks for the reply!
Thank you for another great episode. It's nice that you used more modern-ish music for this modern-ish topic. Keep up the content and good work. I.
Thanks Ivan ! Hugo
Great point and analysis Hugo! A perfect example is during a scene in the movie The Intern, with Robert DeNiro and Anne Hathaway, when Anne H looks at a group of unkept guys and then at DeNiro and instantly just gets it!
I'll look for this scene. Thanks ! Hugo
Here here for a more elegant world. Hugo has inspired me to create a high quality bespoke tailoring guide for South East Asia. I don't think such a guide exist yet and most bespoke suits made in asia are budget suits with half canvases.
If you want your guide to be published on our website Parisian Gentleman, please send it to us. Such a guide would interest a lot of people in our community and we can help making its reading big. Drop an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr
Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you so much Hugo. I will definitely email you when I have enough material.
Preach! Hahahaha, that was a very good closing statement.
And as usual, it's a nice, important topic yet there are lack of people who discuss it. It's a very nice analysis on how culture changes and we, style aficionados, become the counterculture of it.
Keep up the great contents, cheers!
Thanks Rio for your appreciation. Cheers, Hugo
The well designed, well tailored suit is too strong of a work of art to ever go away. It will always reestablish itself. The video was outstanding, but the last three minutes in particular are pure gold. Certain types of casual clothing carry little or no visual power. They tire the eye. Women will actually brush their hands across the chest and lapel of a well made, well fitted suit. Tell me any other item of clothing that can do that. Anything that can create that type of response from women isn't going anywhere, ever.
You are so right Anthony ! Especially at the end of your contribution. Many thanks, Hugo
Absolutely great video, very well done!
Thank you very much Sir ! Hugo
I have to say this episode is a truly masterpiece even among all his.
You nailed it on the head. I guess I have become more attracted to dressing well as people have moved more and more towards being casual. Dressing well is the new rebellious expression. I take a lot of inspiration from the 60s, while adding modernity to it especially when it comes to fit.
I recently got hired at a great job at a large corporation. During the interview they told me that they recently pushed for a change in the dress code so now people can wear jeans. I will respectfully decline that privilege. A T-Shirt paired with some nice jeans will always be a wardrobe staple on a casual day out, as I like variety in my fashion but there is a time and place for everything.
Thank you for you contribution and welcome in the rebellion ! Cheers, Hugo
I love wearing suit with my cowboy boots but I feel a bit awkward when I do as I live in a pretty casual city (people would wear short/jean with tshirt to a dinner or bar). I always overdress and stick out like a sore thumb wherever I go with the suit. On some occasion, was even made fun of for being overdressed. Once or twice my friend also complained that I make them look bad being in a suit and all. So how do I own it? Wearing a nice suit with confidence without feeling like all eyes are watching me? That's something I've been struggling with.
So many fantastic comments here which support the suit. I can't add much more to them but second all of the comments.
I myself don't wear one often because of the smart casual requirement of work but I conpletely agree that the suit is a statement of elegance and refinement that very few items of clothing can reach. An excellent video
Thank your for your contribution and your appreciation Imtiaz. Hugo
Death to the suit....long live the suit! Thank you Hugo for another informative video. I would have never thought being dressed in a suit/tie/pocket square would make me a rebel! Somewhere, James Dean must be laughing. I await your next video!
How does it feel to wake up and realize you are a rebel ? Isn't it thrilling ? Best, Hugo
I work in finance. It is still customary to wear a suit to client meetings. However, in all other scenarios, it is not required.
Thanks Peter ! Hugo
Great message, so true.
Dear Mr. Jacomet, I write you in english because of my french at the present is too much poor to write You properly. I'm an Italian cultural journalist studying french language, and I decided to adopt your accent and your intonation of voice ad model of perfection. Your accent is really amazing and your rhetoric is rich and pleasant. I have only a question about your accent, and of course about You: are you a natural born parisian? Is your accent a parisian accent or a more neutral french accent? Thank you very much!
Dear Leonardo, I'm am born in Paris and lived pretty much all my life in Paris. But i've been raised in the center of France until 18 years old. So my French accent is probably neutral. Bonne soirée, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci monsieur Jacomet pour votre reponse!
Dear monsieur Jacomet,
As a Dutch citizen I ride a bike almost everyday. Therefore my pantalons tend to wear out much faster. What kind of fabric/wool blend would you recommend?
Also I want to thank you for the recommendation of Tommy Page in response to a previous question of mine, the store has truely won me over!
Kind regards, AGP
I'm so happy that you met Tommy! For your pants, i would go for some sturdy flannel and, as you bike a lot, so natural stretch flannel. The only flannel that features both is the Rugby Flannel by Drago. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS merci beaucoup !
Very astute commentary. This is channel has great content.
I straight up love this video. I have recently changed my style and begun to put more button ups in it and just that alone has surprised people. It's kind of a shame actually
It's maybe not a shame. People need to be educated to regain a sense of aesthetic and taste. And the young generation seems to like it. Cheers, Hugo
A man.wears a suit not only been he wants to, but also because dressing up shows respect for those around you.
That's right Jorden! Best, Hugo
Thanks to the Internet, there are now many young (or not so young) men who have more knowledge of classic style than had ever been possible. Yes, ladies love when a man is dressed up. I'm surprised JP Morgan would prohibit neckties; it's absolutely ridiculous. There still is a bunch of institutions that absolutely require neckties and jackets, and there certainly are circles where formal attire is expected.
Good evening, in fact JP Morgan did not totally prohibit necktie and formal business attires, but largely loosen its codes, in order to adapt to the new lifestyle (more "relax") of the clientele. So I admit to have slightly exaggerated the fact in order to emphasize my message. But on the other hand, it's a good example. Another good example would be that the necktie is no more mandatory at the French Parliament and that many congressmen show up tieless in order to appear more "modern" because they think you have to look "cool" to gain electors. And concerning your last point on remaining institutions that require jacket and tie, I'm sorry to say that they are less and less in a City like Paris. Yours, Hugo
I believe this video is nothing more than the whole essence of Parisian Gentleman.
Furthermore, I really felt empathy when you said that we are the rebels nowadays.
It is very sad and very true that in today's society most people are completely subjugated by mass marketing and sometimes, if not most times, they do not really make their own choices even when they think they do.
That is why I believe a rebel is not only who wears wonderfully crafted tailoring, but also anybody who truly understands his own style and personality, feeling confident in being himself/herself.
A rebel is a person who exercises her/his critical thinking on a daily basis in everything she/he does and does not take things for established just because somebody else said so.
A rebel is a person who is able to decide what suits him/her freely.
That's not a comment, that's a Manifesto ! Thanks Diego. Hugo
Thank you so much for your wonderful videos. May I please ask you about your opinion on neckwear? I have lived in Asia for decades and lament my expensive neckties being splattered with oily foods, sauces, seasonings, etc. I wonder about your opinion and insights on the “ BOLO TIE” bearing in mind that some are extremely beautiful works of Art with precious stones gold silver and unique designs. The dry cleaning bill is zero! Many Asian women find them intriguing and it’s a great conversation starter
I have been working in asset management companies in the City of London and the dress code has moved from suit and tie to dress down fridays to smart casual from the 90s to now.
Très beau complet! 👍
Merci. Cifonelli bespoke à Paris. Hugo
World has become so much smaller with all the modern technology compared to the age of when classic men's style was developed by the English (as you spoke about in another video, which was great btw). With most of the population living in denser areas, this probably gave the rise to (also more cheaper mass produced) urban, street/casual style being more acceptable over the classic styles. The social structure, balance and environment also has lot to do with it. Most of the jobs done by the middle class hardly ever requires a suit anymore and becoming even less as you say, except for a few occupations. Whenever I put on a suit and even just walking through my own neighborhood i feel overdressed compared to everyone around me; even without a tie!
But regardless of that, personally I hope to be able to get a bespoke tailored suit one day. At least after watching your videos I know a little bit more about what to look for and how to recognize quality and craftmanship.
Thanks for your interesting and insightful comment. All the best ! Hugo
Great episode Hugo 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Thank you Scott! Hugo
The suit isn't dead, but it definitely needs to be applied judiciously. As you noted, going to a sales meeting with a customer with a suit and tie has the potential to make them feel like they are being audited. Also, a suit can be off-putting and give the impression of being unapproachable. IMHO, a smart blazer, paired with a pocket square and high quality shoes has the same impact that a suit "used to" have in this type of meeting. Being too well dressed as a sales person can often have the customer analyzing whether or not they are paying too much for the solution/product. As a business leader, when presenting to a large group of 100+ or more, a suit is the easiest way to not make the mistake of being under dressed. Thank you for the great content and also for the recommendation of Cobbler Union shoe company.
Thank you very much for a very insightful point of view based on your experience. You add a lot to the debate we try to open here. Best ! Hugo
Now that I am semi retired, how would a sartorial person dress down...you know not quite casual Fridays, nor outright street so I having difficulty establishing a signature style for this moment in my life. What are your thoughts?
Follow your envies now that you can wear whatever you want. Don't restrain yourself and express who you are at this very moment of your life. Give it a thought and you will find. Cheers, Hugo
Well said , no it’s not dead .....
Elegance will always find a way .
Yes Moustafa, I agree, Hugo
As someone in my 20s who works in the professional services that you bring up as an example, I have to say that the direction that financial and legal institutions are going in is a good move. More and more businesses and individuals who are making their wealth come from industries that do not have a rigid dress code, such as tech and IT services. These people want to have their finances and legal services handled by people they can relate with and have rapport with, and the full "business formal" attire is seen as setting oneself apart and creating a social gap between us and them, hence the call to dress down.
The suit is gradually leaving the professional world as a uniform, and I think that is a good thing as well. When worn as a uniform, a suit is a work obligation and breeds resentment among those required to wear them. When a suit is worn by choice rather than as a requirement, there is more breathing room for creativity and self-expression. I welcome the suit joining the world of personal clothing. I want the suit to be a form of self-expression rather than a resented symbol of conformity.
You nailed the whole subject in one comment. Thank you, Hugo
In my work I meet people at their homes. When they say they feel under dressed, I just remind them of the occasion. They are home and properly dressed. I am at work, and I am properly dressed.
Honestly I mostly get compliments about my outfits.
I'm sure Chris. Congratulations, Hugo
Thank you very much for this honest and true statement. For me it is exactly how you said it. I am a rebell and I love to show it.
Thanks Harald! Hugo
I'm from sudan if i wear a suit people gives me a huge respect I don't know why 🇸🇩👍🏽
Because you're elegant my friend ! Greetings from France, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS thank you
I think you help us alot plz don't stop
Keep it coming!
Yes we will ! Hugo
Great incites. So true!
Thank you Michael. Hugo
In the last video, Sonya talked about shoulder styles, which caused me to start paying attention to the shoulders. Here in the Netherlands, most men seem to be wearing suits with "British shoulders", but I couldn't really tell what Germans were doing. Is there a certain, defined German style of shoulders (or suits in general) or is the German style very eclectic?
The German shoulder style is very British, and super conservative. Our friend and contributor Bernhard Roetzel is currently preparing for PG a huge review of the best tailors in Germany. Stay tuned! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks, that'll be interesting.
Traditional Black suit doesn't attracts any more because too many second car dealers and insurance men and middlemen wear them as uniform, not to mention the security guards. Once I was mistaken as a menial labor in a 5-star hotel because I wear black suit.
But on the other hand casual suits and jackets are definitely thriving, people grew sick of fully canvassed armor like suits, but more attracted in napoli style unstructured jackets. me myself has like 30 some casual suits which look very nice and definitely doesn't confuse other people of my occupation. Also the English and French style suits are losing market share too cuz people don't want to appear too formal.
Anyway a nice suit still gets you LOTs of women's attention and make them fond of you, especially when other men are in Ts and jeans and sneakers.
Thanks for your comment. I slightly disagree with you when you qualify the black suit as "traditional". In fact grey and blue suits are traditional. Black is more occasional. by definition. Cheers, Hugo
*Where does the term “Dress to the nines” come from?
That's a good question, but nobody really knows the answer. The origins of this expression remains very obscure. Cheers, Hugo
Suits are still fairly popular down on Wall Street. I wear one everyday and love it. I get treated better where ever I go and women still love it. The big difference is that most of us buy MTM, custom or bespoke. The prices have really come down and you can get a great fitting suit at a good price.
I agree with everything written in this comment. Better treatment and the appreciation of the women. thanks D William, Hugo
Thank you Hugo I have been saying the same thing, that we are the counter culture. You put it far more eloquent than I
Thank you Aireney. Hugo