Ah well just a guy with a bunch of spanners To be honest we learn as we go and listen to others on TH-cam while pissing off all the real mechanics. Some of what I do is a bit Heath Robinson, but it gets it going. Next vid is firing her up, she’s neatly all back together, just a bit of exhaust reshaping and welding that’s all that’s left to do. Thanks for watching 😊
Good.job done chap might put mine back together tomorrow lol no cars to do tomoz so might spend day trying. Then might give me the boost to start rebuilding the rat.
Well you certainly know your car stuff mate so the rat should be an easy job. I’ve nearly completely reassembled mine, the engine is in, it’s all together, just had to do some welding on the exhausts, and I need to re wrap them and get them on. Then it’s just fire her up time 😬.
Great video thank you for the detailed explanation, I have one question please, I have same issues with oil cover can you please give me the measurements for the replacement bolt or the link where I can buy it, thanks a lot I enjoy the videos.👍
Hello mate, I have some of these bolts spare. 10cm excluding the head, 6mm diameter, 1mm pitch. Any old bolt will do, but best avoid stainless. If it’s exactly the same bolt position that’s the right length as all three are different lengths of course.
Danke dir. ja der motor ist fertig und im fahrrad. Ich mache gerade ein Video über die Inbetriebnahme des Fahrrads und werde es sehr bald hochladen. Ich benötige einige Teile, da zuerst ein Problem gelöst werden muss. Danke fürs zuschauen
@@memybikeni9931 vielen lieben Dank, freue mich auf das neue Video von Dir, ich hoffe das alles wunderbar funktioniert bei deiner ganzen Arbeit, es hat jedenfalls sehr viel Spass gemacht den ganzen XV 535 arbeiten zu zu schauen. Super Videos von Dir. Mach weiter so und liebe Grüße aus Deutschland NRW Wuppertal zu Dir.
Thank you. I have the engine back in the frame now and am working on the video, but as expected it has a firing issue I have to resolve. It will be finished and uploaded very soon. Thanks for the comment 😊
I have a yamaha dragstar xvs 400 and im having bottom end knocking..and these videos help me a lot to see what troubles i will meet on the rebuild...if you like i have a video ylu can check it and tell me your quess what is knocking :)
@@pzac83 K that could be so many things, and hard to hear without listening to it up close, but I couldn’t hear a ‘knock’ as such, a lot of the noises could be loose headers making a ‘phut’ noise, but it does sound like the cam chain and tensioners are worn possibly. If you remove the tensioner mechanism and push on the guide and it goes away then that’s a good indicator. Can you hear if its from the front or rear block ?
@@memybikeni9931 it sounds lower than camchain tensioner i quess is bad main journal bearings i will take engine down and we will see..thanks for your answer
@@pzac83 ok if you have the engine in the block and are still able to run it, please do see if you can get some more distinct knocking noses uploaded and I’ll happily have a further listen to it. But either way, if you strip and clean it, look for ‘witness marks’ where you can see metal on metal contact where there shouldn’t be and that will be a good indicator of where the problem lies. I would say however that it’s more likely to be a big end bearing, or too much free play on the sides of the big ends rather than a main bearing, but if you use a feeler gauge and plastigauge that will assist with your search for the gremlin.
@@jacoposvetoni1275 Hi, do you mean the actuator rod seal where the clutch cable pulls the mechanism on the case to operate the clutch ? If so that sadly needs to have the engine dropped to get the head and barrels lifted up off the crank cases, to get the rod out. Also need the stator side cover off as there is a locking bolt, and also the middle gear cover to align the gear so you can pull the rod past it. It’s a ridiculously difficult part to service.
Hello, I wish you had a video of putting the engine back in frame (some tips or tricks). I have a hydraulic lift, yet I have been struggling to get the engine back for hours.... and I got literally nowhere. I am desperate (but not ready to give up).
Ah sorry mate, I didn’t do one as it is mostly just the reverse, what seems to be the issue ? The scissor lift I have seems to do the job as it holds the engine steady, then rock it into the drive shaft. Hopefully you’ll make some progress soon.
@@memybikeni9931 I have been rocking it into place for 14 hours. :) :) The problem I had which I didn't realize was the bike has to stand straight - the front wheel is not supposed to lean to the side, not even a bit. I eventually got it there, except for a clearance issue at the top front cylinder (I just cant align those holes to get one the bolts all the way and through the engine mounts. I's just 2mm, I can still grind out the inside of the hole on the engine mount. (Thank you for the response, I have learned a few things from your videos. I hope the bike's still running well!)
@@xzouix ah is see, yeah that may have made it more difficult. I would avoid grinding or drilling anything out until you have re looked at it’s fitting, if it’s no slotting back into place, it could be just the tilt of placement causing it to sit wrong. Is the knuckle that fits onto the engine and its mount fitted correctly, something is not right there somewhere ?
@@memybikeni9931 I definitely agree. Everything seems to be assembled properly. The problem could stem from not following correct mounting order though. Yesterday I let the engine hang in the frame, one of the lower holes that wasn't aligned suddenly aligned without any trouble. I have the manual and I know I was supposed to mount all top bolts first, and I tried but it was basically impossible. It was already difficult to remove one of the lower bolts and one rear top bolt during the disassembly (already then have I noticed that the top holes were barely aligned). ( Plus, the other factor - I am a third owner of the bike. I don't know about previous owners, but I dropped it two or three times when I started learning to ride (it fell on a crash-bar, in slow speed). So there's that.). The problem that I have now - with the U-shaped top mount - I even had a hard time mounting back the coils located on top of this mount because the mount stretched a bit - it got wider.). Another thing I would mention, the engine was out of the frame for 8 months (the mechanic's shop just took it, put the engine in the corner and ignored it for 5 months...) So maybe the frame stretched a few millimeters. Cant wait to figure it out and get the bike on the road. Wrenching is fun...to a certain extent. :)
Hi good video I am rebuilding my 535 and have the same problem getting off the right side engine crash bar same bolt is stuck. I only want to change the clutch. After it snapped off did you have to drill it out?
OMG 🤦♂️ is all I can say on that bolt. As I was taking the whole engine out that made it a little easier, I mainly smashed it out with drifts and hammers and heat, but I made a cut with an angle grinder to separate the cases first so I think that’s a bit further than you need to go as you’re only doing a clutch, and I was doing an entire engine rebuild. This was my video anyway of the removal of the two halves of the broken bolt after I had separated the cases - had to slice the bolt with an angle grinder to separate the cases though th-cam.com/video/pT9mLtkCgbo/w-d-xo.html. It will be stuck fast with aluminium oxide, hard as diamond. If you’ve taken the head of the bolt off on the clutch side I’d recommend drilling it out to about 1cm then threading it for a new short bolt. Easiest way, get a stubby 12mm tungsten carbide bit, don’t waste any time with Cobalt HSS drills. Then thread it, and fit a short bolt. Job done. Just remember it’s just metal and you’re in charge and will always win 💁♂️ I’d worry that it may be an engine out job to get a real good go at removing that bolt and repairing. Heat and hammers work, but mine took some smashing. All the best with it Liz, and let me know if you need any further advice on it.
@@memybikeni9931 I had the same trouble on my 535 , luckily it is a engine that I got for free , I heated it up then kept hitting it with a big hammer, it didn’t move so left it till the next day , heated it up again and kept hammering it and it started to move , but it naked me out , left it soaking with wd40 ; then next day I got it moving just 4mm , then I had to cut the bolt thread end off as I had bent it a bit , then persevered knocking it in and out and I got it all the way out , but if you ever have to do the spring on the actuator clutch arm if it’s snapped off , it’s a big job as you have to have the engine out of the bike , then strip down back cylinder head, then take the stater cover off and clutch cover off , there is one bolt in the stater cover to take off , then take your clutch plates out and ball bearing with the actuator rod , then you have to take out drive shaft and undo the big nut to get the gear out , then you can lift out the actuator arm , put in the new spring and reverse procedure the get bike together again , I have been told you can put a spring on the cable to the actuator arm if you don’t want to strip all this stuff off .
@@philipbell3187 not sure you have to take the whole clutch off as long as the pressure plate is removed, and the middle gear can be rotated to give clearance I think, but yes a massive job. I would definitely find another way if I needed to do it.
Hey 👋 got another question for you.. why would the pilot screws have to be turned almost all the way in instead of 2&1/2 turns out to get a good air/fuel mixture? What would be causing that? Thanks
@@memybikeni9931 I know but I have to keep them just about all the way in order to get a good air fuel ratio/ mixture instead of turning out at all. My carb doesn't have the connector attached to it like some mine is US version..
@@memybikeni9931 why doesn't my carb have the connector attached to it? It's a 95 xv535sg.. and why doesn't my choke raise the rpms when I put it in choke when cold? I have to use idle screw sometimes??? And yeah when I got it back from the guy who rebuilt it before I did he had the pilot screws just about all the way in. And if I screw them out to 2&1/2 it sounds rough and backfires even more seems like I might just have to rebuild it.. ughh
@@memybikeni9931 I did clean the upper tank and maybe my dumbass didn't get all the water out when I cleaned it with electrolysis method. I tried drying it out and used mystery marvel to try to keep it rust free and get any extra water out. I used gas and marvel but I'm sure some water was still there. I should of filled it up with tank on bucket and let it drain everything out.. what's weird is it was doing fine after I cleaned it ran ok definitely had power but I didn't use a lot of gas I just test drive it a few blocks a few times. Idk why the power loss and I'm figuring since 2 gallons filled it up to the top almost then it still had a gallon when it wouldn't start yesterday. Which is still only half gallon in res and 2&1/2 in tank. Idk I think it could be my pump but I think my carb still needs to be rebuilt with quality parts.. I don't want to buy a Lifan carb for it. It's only got 9000 just sat for 18 years. Compression is good actually perfect I synced the carbs but it was extremely hard to get fuel level correct for some reason..
@@karlh4313 sounds like you do need to pull it all out back as far as the tank, a lot to check as a lot going on. If you’re having to screw the fuel screw in all the way then the carbs definitely need pulling apart again and checking over. If you can hear the pump priming it should be ok.
Hello ! and again, with my YAMAHA Virago 535, I solved one problem and another appeared. The gearbox is jammed, the first gear goes down and there is a nitral gear, I can only drive in first gear, the second gear and higher does not engage, it’s jammed, you press the lever up and nothing wants to go. A worker put the motorcycle in the garage, I can’t understand how this happened? maybe there is a solution?
There was a moment when they tried to start it on a cable tied to the car at 2nd speed, I started it. I drove around a bit, the gears were working, I just replaced three rollers on the starter bendex and put everything back together. Only first speed and neutral are turned on. above the lever does not want to shift to second gear and higher, it is simply jammed
Difficult to tell without eyeballing it, but I’d start by removing the left side cover, see if everything is in order. check the clutch adjustment too, may just be not disengaging properly.
@@memybikeni9931 the left cover is where the bendex is? I took it off today, changed three rollers on the bendex, nothing unusual, I’m doing this operation for the fourth time, maybe the cover is where the clutch is?
@@carhard_oldmachine2743 clutch is on the right, but the external gear shift mechanism is under the left cover. By Bendix I assume you mean starter clutch. Seriously though could be anything, bent fork, broken jammed dog tooth, or just a badly adjusted clutch. Try some easier visual inspections and adjustments before doing anything drastic.
@@memybikeni9931 Thank you for your reply! I found the problem, or rather not the problem, but my mistake, when I installed the mesh filter (yellow), in a hurry I inserted it with the wrong side of the mesh up, and the gearbox was blocked because of this, I’ll know!
Ich habe zwar nix verstanden, aber die Dokumentation ist bestens. Danke dafür. Thanks for your work.
Danke. Wenn Sie bei irgendetwas Hilfe benötigen, fragen Sie einfach. 😊
@@memybikeni9931 Danke. Komme ich drauf zurück bei Bedarf. Hab ne `97er mit 17000 Miles gekauft, sieht noch fast aus wie neu.
@@rawe4373 it should serve you well.
Genuinely excited to here that thing fire up. Great work on the rebuild. Really in depth and precise. Top man. 👍👍
Yeah I can’t wait either, I haven’t got a running bike at the moment. sold my CB500 in February and I need a fix 😂
Great job 👏 you certainly know what you’re doing. I’ve certainly learned loads from watching your videos 👍
Ah well just a guy with a bunch of spanners To be honest we learn as we go and listen to others on TH-cam while pissing off all the real mechanics. Some of what I do is a bit Heath Robinson, but it gets it going. Next vid is firing her up, she’s neatly all back together, just a bit of exhaust reshaping and welding that’s all that’s left to do. Thanks for watching 😊
Enjoyed watching this super video. Thank you so much for making it
You’re very welcome, glad you enjoyed it.
Good.job done chap might put mine back together tomorrow lol no cars to do tomoz so might spend day trying. Then might give me the boost to start rebuilding the rat.
Well you certainly know your car stuff mate so the rat should be an easy job. I’ve nearly completely reassembled mine, the engine is in, it’s all together, just had to do some welding on the exhausts, and I need to re wrap them and get them on. Then it’s just fire her up time 😬.
Great video thank you for the detailed explanation, I have one question please, I have same issues with oil cover can you please give me the measurements for the replacement bolt or the link where I can buy it, thanks a lot I enjoy the videos.👍
Hello mate, I have some of these bolts spare. 10cm excluding the head, 6mm diameter, 1mm pitch. Any old bolt will do, but best avoid stainless. If it’s exactly the same bolt position that’s the right length as all three are different lengths of course.
Nice vid tell the kids I said hi
I certainly will 😊
@@memybikeni9931 :)
Super arbeit die Du an dem Motor gemacht hast, ich habe mir alle Teile von der XV 535 angeschaut. Kommt auch noch ein Video wenn Sie wieder läuft ?
Danke dir. ja der motor ist fertig und im fahrrad. Ich mache gerade ein Video über die Inbetriebnahme des Fahrrads und werde es sehr bald hochladen. Ich benötige einige Teile, da zuerst ein Problem gelöst werden muss. Danke fürs zuschauen
@@memybikeni9931 vielen lieben Dank, freue mich auf das neue Video von Dir, ich hoffe das alles wunderbar funktioniert bei deiner ganzen Arbeit, es hat jedenfalls sehr viel Spass gemacht den ganzen XV 535 arbeiten zu zu schauen. Super Videos von Dir. Mach weiter so und liebe Grüße aus Deutschland NRW Wuppertal zu Dir.
Hello nice videos im waiting for the first start video...:)
Thank you. I have the engine back in the frame now and am working on the video, but as expected it has a firing issue I have to resolve. It will be finished and uploaded very soon. Thanks for the comment 😊
I have a yamaha dragstar xvs 400 and im having bottom end knocking..and these videos help me a lot to see what troubles i will meet on the rebuild...if you like i have a video ylu can check it and tell me your quess what is knocking :)
@@pzac83 K that could be so many things, and hard to hear without listening to it up close, but I couldn’t hear a ‘knock’ as such, a lot of the noises could be loose headers making a ‘phut’ noise, but it does sound like the cam chain and tensioners are worn possibly. If you remove the tensioner mechanism and push on the guide and it goes away then that’s a good indicator. Can you hear if its from the front or rear block ?
@@memybikeni9931 it sounds lower than camchain tensioner i quess is bad main journal bearings i will take engine down and we will see..thanks for your answer
@@pzac83 ok if you have the engine in the block and are still able to run it, please do see if you can get some more distinct knocking noses uploaded and I’ll happily have a further listen to it. But either way, if you strip and clean it, look for ‘witness marks’ where you can see metal on metal contact where there shouldn’t be and that will be a good indicator of where the problem lies. I would say however that it’s more likely to be a big end bearing, or too much free play on the sides of the big ends rather than a main bearing, but if you use a feeler gauge and plastigauge that will assist with your search for the gremlin.
Great work mate
Please don’t ever sell it after all that
I know mate it’s painful selling things you’ve spent a lot of time on.
Hi, thanks for you video.
How much is it difficult to change the oil clutch of actuator rod?
Have I disassempling all engine?
Thanks in advance sir.
Sorry: I'd like to change only de seal oil of actuator clutch.
Thanks
@@jacoposvetoni1275 Hi, do you mean the actuator rod seal where the clutch cable pulls the mechanism on the case to operate the clutch ? If so that sadly needs to have the engine dropped to get the head and barrels lifted up off the crank cases, to get the rod out. Also need the stator side cover off as there is a locking bolt, and also the middle gear cover to align the gear so you can pull the rod past it. It’s a ridiculously difficult part to service.
I' il test to explain my goal : I need just to replace the seal oil upper the clutch rod because there's a leak.
Thanks
@@jacoposvetoni1275 ok, so it’s as I described and a fair bit of work.
Hello, I wish you had a video of putting the engine back in frame (some tips or tricks). I have a hydraulic lift, yet I have been struggling to get the engine back for hours.... and I got literally nowhere. I am desperate (but not ready to give up).
Ah sorry mate, I didn’t do one as it is mostly just the reverse, what seems to be the issue ? The scissor lift I have seems to do the job as it holds the engine steady, then rock it into the drive shaft. Hopefully you’ll make some progress soon.
@@memybikeni9931 I have been rocking it into place for 14 hours. :) :) The problem I had which I didn't realize was the bike has to stand straight - the front wheel is not supposed to lean to the side, not even a bit. I eventually got it there, except for a clearance issue at the top front cylinder (I just cant align those holes to get one the bolts all the way and through the engine mounts. I's just 2mm, I can still grind out the inside of the hole on the engine mount. (Thank you for the response, I have learned a few things from your videos. I hope the bike's still running well!)
@@xzouix ah is see, yeah that may have made it more difficult. I would avoid grinding or drilling anything out until you have re looked at it’s fitting, if it’s no slotting back into place, it could be just the tilt of placement causing it to sit wrong. Is the knuckle that fits onto the engine and its mount fitted correctly, something is not right there somewhere ?
@@memybikeni9931 I definitely agree. Everything seems to be assembled properly. The problem could stem from not following correct mounting order though. Yesterday I let the engine hang in the frame, one of the lower holes that wasn't aligned suddenly aligned without any trouble. I have the manual and I know I was supposed to mount all top bolts first, and I tried but it was basically impossible. It was already difficult to remove one of the lower bolts and one rear top bolt during the disassembly (already then have I noticed that the top holes were barely aligned).
( Plus, the other factor - I am a third owner of the bike. I don't know about previous owners, but I dropped it two or three times when I started learning to ride (it fell on a crash-bar, in slow speed). So there's that.). The problem that I have now - with the U-shaped top mount - I even had a hard time mounting back the coils located on top of this mount because the mount stretched a bit - it got wider.). Another thing I would mention, the engine was out of the frame for 8 months (the mechanic's shop just took it, put the engine in the corner and ignored it for 5 months...) So maybe the frame stretched a few millimeters. Cant wait to figure it out and get the bike on the road. Wrenching is fun...to a certain extent. :)
@@xzouix sounds like the mounting bracket may be warped then.
Hi good video I am rebuilding my 535 and have the same problem getting off the right side engine crash bar same bolt is stuck. I only want to change the clutch. After it snapped off did you have to drill it out?
OMG 🤦♂️ is all I can say on that bolt. As I was taking the whole engine out that made it a little easier, I mainly smashed it out with drifts and hammers and heat, but I made a cut with an angle grinder to separate the cases first so I think that’s a bit further than you need to go as you’re only doing a clutch, and I was doing an entire engine rebuild. This was my video anyway of the removal of the two halves of the broken bolt after I had separated the cases - had to slice the bolt with an angle grinder to separate the cases though th-cam.com/video/pT9mLtkCgbo/w-d-xo.html. It will be stuck fast with aluminium oxide, hard as diamond. If you’ve taken the head of the bolt off on the clutch side I’d recommend drilling it out to about 1cm then threading it for a new short bolt. Easiest way, get a stubby 12mm tungsten carbide bit, don’t waste any time with Cobalt HSS drills. Then thread it, and fit a short bolt. Job done. Just remember it’s just metal and you’re in charge and will always win 💁♂️ I’d worry that it may be an engine out job to get a real good go at removing that bolt and repairing. Heat and hammers work, but mine took some smashing. All the best with it Liz, and let me know if you need any further advice on it.
@@memybikeni9931 I had the same trouble on my 535 , luckily it is a engine that I got for free , I heated it up then kept hitting it with a big hammer, it didn’t move so left it till the next day , heated it up again and kept hammering it and it started to move , but it naked me out , left it soaking with wd40 ; then next day I got it moving just 4mm , then I had to cut the bolt thread end off as I had bent it a bit , then persevered knocking it in and out and I got it all the way out , but if you ever have to do the spring on the actuator clutch arm if it’s snapped off , it’s a big job as you have to have the engine out of the bike , then strip down back cylinder head, then take the stater cover off and clutch cover off , there is one bolt in the stater cover to take off , then take your clutch plates out and ball bearing with the actuator rod , then you have to take out drive shaft and undo the big nut to get the gear out , then you can lift out the actuator arm , put in the new spring and reverse procedure the get bike together again , I have been told you can put a spring on the cable to the actuator arm if you don’t want to strip all this stuff off .
@@philipbell3187 not sure you have to take the whole clutch off as long as the pressure plate is removed, and the middle gear can be rotated to give clearance I think, but yes a massive job. I would definitely find another way if I needed to do it.
Hey 👋 got another question for you.. why would the pilot screws have to be turned almost all the way in instead of 2&1/2 turns out to get a good air/fuel mixture? What would be causing that? Thanks
It’s just so you can get a good reference point to turn them out to where you need to.
@@memybikeni9931 I know but I have to keep them just about all the way in order to get a good air fuel ratio/ mixture instead of turning out at all. My carb doesn't have the connector attached to it like some mine is US version..
@@memybikeni9931 why doesn't my carb have the connector attached to it? It's a 95 xv535sg.. and why doesn't my choke raise the rpms when I put it in choke when cold? I have to use idle screw sometimes??? And yeah when I got it back from the guy who rebuilt it before I did he had the pilot screws just about all the way in. And if I screw them out to 2&1/2 it sounds rough and backfires even more seems like I might just have to rebuild it.. ughh
@@memybikeni9931 I did clean the upper tank and maybe my dumbass didn't get all the water out when I cleaned it with electrolysis method. I tried drying it out and used mystery marvel to try to keep it rust free and get any extra water out. I used gas and marvel but I'm sure some water was still there. I should of filled it up with tank on bucket and let it drain everything out.. what's weird is it was doing fine after I cleaned it ran ok definitely had power but I didn't use a lot of gas I just test drive it a few blocks a few times. Idk why the power loss and I'm figuring since 2 gallons filled it up to the top almost then it still had a gallon when it wouldn't start yesterday. Which is still only half gallon in res and 2&1/2 in tank. Idk I think it could be my pump but I think my carb still needs to be rebuilt with quality parts.. I don't want to buy a Lifan carb for it. It's only got 9000 just sat for 18 years. Compression is good actually perfect I synced the carbs but it was extremely hard to get fuel level correct for some reason..
@@karlh4313 sounds like you do need to pull it all out back as far as the tank, a lot to check as a lot going on. If you’re having to screw the fuel screw in all the way then the carbs definitely need pulling apart again and checking over. If you can hear the pump priming it should be ok.
Hello ! and again, with my YAMAHA Virago 535, I solved one problem and another appeared. The gearbox is jammed, the first gear goes down and there is a nitral gear, I can only drive in first gear, the second gear and higher does not engage, it’s jammed, you press the lever up and nothing wants to go. A worker put the motorcycle in the garage, I can’t understand how this happened? maybe there is a solution?
There was a moment when they tried to start it on a cable tied to the car at 2nd speed, I started it. I drove around a bit, the gears were working, I just replaced three rollers on the starter bendex and put everything back together. Only first speed and neutral are turned on. above the lever does not want to shift to second gear and higher, it is simply jammed
Difficult to tell without eyeballing it, but I’d start by removing the left side cover, see if everything is in order. check the clutch adjustment too, may just be not disengaging properly.
@@memybikeni9931 the left cover is where the bendex is? I took it off today, changed three rollers on the bendex, nothing unusual, I’m doing this operation for the fourth time, maybe the cover is where the clutch is?
@@carhard_oldmachine2743 clutch is on the right, but the external gear shift mechanism is under the left cover. By Bendix I assume you mean starter clutch. Seriously though could be anything, bent fork, broken jammed dog tooth, or just a badly adjusted clutch. Try some easier visual inspections and adjustments before doing anything drastic.
@@memybikeni9931 Thank you for your reply! I found the problem, or rather not the problem, but my mistake, when I installed the mesh filter (yellow), in a hurry I inserted it with the wrong side of the mesh up, and the gearbox was blocked because of this, I’ll know!
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