Virago XV535 EP2 engine teardown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 เม.ย. 2021
- In this video I get to the bottom of why my XV535 engine has locked up as I get to work tearing it apart. Hopefully it gives a bit of a step by step for anyone else interested in having a go.
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Dear friend, I want to thank you immensely for your disassembly video of the Yamaha Virago 535 engine. I am from Brazil, and, despite the difficulty with the language (I speak Portuguese), I could easily understand your teaching. Today, 6/03/2023, I was able to complete the disassembly of my motorcycle's engine, problems with the connecting rods. I still haven't been able to take them apart to assess the damage, I hope it's just the bearings. A big hug, and many thanks.
Ah that’s brilliant Cesar, so glad you got it all apart ok, it’s just nuts, bolts and spanners really, with a few bolts with attitude thrown in. Glad the video helped. Hope you get the connecting rods sorted, if it is the bearings, it’s best to check all the oil galleries are thoroughly clear, and pull the oil pick up out to check it’s not blocked and starving the engine. To be honest with you, I’ve had a terrible couple of weeks, so a nice word and friendly hug very welcome. All the best my Brazilian friend 😊 Thanks, Rich.
@@memybikeni9931 Yes, it was the connecting rod bearings, the one on the front cylinder, it looks like it fell apart, the one on the rear cylinder, it's a little stuck. Tomorrow I will disassemble them to check the real condition. Thank you very much. God bless you!
Good morning my friend. Unfortunately, the damage was great, it affected the crankshaft. Now, I'm going to think about what to do, parts for this type of motorcycle, only used, and very expensive. The alternative will be to send it to be rectified and nitrified in São Paulo. A hug.
@@cesarmedeiros4463 Ah that’s a shame. Do you need a new crank shaft or can it be repaired with just a grind and new bearings ?
@@memybikeni9931 A new one is practically impossible to find, a used one, only on the internet, and without being sure of the condition of the piece. I will get in touch with the company, which is located in São Paulo, about 3,000 km from where I am, where the grinding and nitriding is done.
Thank you from a French spectator! This is my first comment on youtube, and I just wanted to say I'm so glad you posted these videos! My beloved Virago 535 started making a big "clack clack" noise yesterday, coming from the bottom of the engine, and I was motivated but worried about taking everything apart. Your videos have confirmed me in the idea of getting started, and I hope to see many more of your videos as they are nice and well explained!
Merci beaucoup. That’s the limit of my French but I’m always willing to make an effort for our closest neighbour 😊 I hope you find the source of the problem, and at least having a look inside my engine helps you to understand where the source of the issue may be coming from. A clack clack or ‘ticking’ noise could very well be a slack timing chain, worn tensioner etc, so may not be too bad a fix. Could be done with the engine in. Is the engine high mileage ? Could be anything of course and if it suddenly stops may indicate something broken off that is being thrown about.
I have the virago 535 year is 1990 , it’s done 22,000 miles,I am having knocking noises from the crank , people have said it’s the starter clutch , so have looked at it and all is fine , I did put diesel in the tank by mistake and wondered if it’s done the big end bearings in , so you have gave me confidence in stripping it down, I have bought a second hand top end and barrels with pistons , and 2 nearly new camshafts, I even have got the bottom end crank case , well onwards and updated I think , thanks for showing me how to strip it down .
Wow that’s a lot of parts to buy before you found the issue. Please do post back when you have determined the problem. I can’t imagine starter clutch would make that sort of noise, although those little cams inside the mechanism are quite fragile, and diesel in the engine would just run poorly and smoke I think before blocking the carbs. Possibly worn big end bearings, so maybe just need to replace the shells. Even the plain shells on the main journals. But initially I’d would check the operation of the clutch and stator and all the gears there to see if anything loose. Could even be a broken fork or gear tooth getting churned around and caught up. So many things, it’s impossible to say without a good look, so all the best with it Philip.
Thank you for the video, it helped a lot!
Excellent, I’m about to start work on removing stripping down a V4 from an 80s Honda.
I have a virago 535. I'm in Italy and I liked this video. I subscribed to your channel. Bye
Very kind of you, I hope you find the series useful.
Awesome video thank u
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
s it possible to set the same gearbox on the xv 535 virago? I have a problem with it being hard to get from neutral to second gear. Everything else works great just that problem. Greetings from Serbia
I can’t imagine there is anything on the external shift mechanism that is causing the issue unless it’s where the shift linkage pulls on the drum. Drain the oil and inspect that first. if it’s not that, a strip down and inspection of the transmission is going to be required. Could be worn dogs, a bent selector fork, a broken tooth on one of the gears, but you should be able to get replacement second hand, they are fairly abundant.
Great video, very clear and informative! Crap about that bearing. Id suggest heat and a press to just get that shaft out. Im sure you have a plan though. Look forward to seeing the rebuild!
Yes heat was my thinking, but as for a press I’ll have to be inventive. I’m still sure not how it has seized, I think the locking tab may be jamming it, I’m not sure. it would have been easier if had been a roller bearing rather than plain. we shall see how it turns out I don’t want to have to scrap the engine. 😬
@@memybikeni9931 will be hard to turn it back, not sure how could free it up before getting it out??
I think firstly I’m going to try and support the case, with the crank hanging down and see if I can heat it and wait for the crank to drop out, then tap or cut the beating out, if I wreck the case maybe I can replace just that. Not seen much on TH-cam to suggest anything.
@@memybikeni9931 as good a plan as any.
@@BareBonesMotorcycles It’s certainly a head scratcher.
Well yesterday I managed to remove my 535 from my 1987.
Trying to remove the rear cylinder cam bolt. Won't budge. Don't know what to do. Sprayed penetrating oil in there,but didn't help.
Haven't tried heat yet. Will heat work? Can only get to the head of the bolt of course. Thanks, Mike
It may have thread lock, so heat probably will work, and an impact gun.
Food vid chap been taken notes lol ready to start striping mine to see what the low compression about.
Fortunately mine had 150 psi on both cylinders so no issue there, but this bloody bearing, and the stuck hangar bolt on the front looks like a mare. Going to be a while before I get that done due to other things going on.
@@memybikeni9931 can you get shaft out and it just leaves the bearing if so try bearing puller with slate hammer and that stuck bolt get a bolt same thickness and just hammer it out. Spray sum penetration oil and heat up at same time.
@@fuelheadjay8800 no the crank shaft is stuck in there too, I think the bearing spun and the locking tab is wedging it. All a bit odd. Yes I’ll try a bolt of the same size to push the stuck bolt out, but I could drill those I imagine.
@@memybikeni9931 how about put bolt back into shaft and put breaker bar on and try turning it to try and put bearing back into position
@@fuelheadjay8800 it would have to go a good 320° Clockwise and I imagine would wreck the threads in the end of the shaft first. I’m going to try suspending it and getting some head on, hopefully it will drop out.
What do you have on your bench as the work surface , is it ali or mild steel sheet and how thick please ?.
3mm thick mild Steele, and I usually go over it with a sanding disk and oil it down periodically.
@@memybikeni9931 Thanks for the tip
Yo tengo mi motor en las mismas condiciones. Me sirve mucho este video. Si podes subir mas videos te lo agradeceria. Saludos desde argentina.
gracias, estoy haciendo un video en este momento que muestra el daño al cigüeñal y su cojinete. es muy malo, un montón de copos de metal entraron y lo destrozaron.
@@memybikeni9931 muchas gracias.
Wow your video is so inspiring to be honest! My virago started working only on one piston and the compression is literally half, 6 bar on one cylinder and 5 on the other. Also, the cylinder that is not working has a strange noise like banging the engine with a hammer. Backfiring a lot too! I’m willing to tear the engine down
Sounds like your engine has some multiple catastrophic damage. Good luck with the investigation.
mę mŷ bïkë ń ì do I have to reset the timing of the engine if I only take off the cylinder head?
@AN ame if it’s the rear cylinder take the cam cover off, take the timing plug out, and turn the engine clockwise to the line by the T mark, then make sure the dowel on the cam sprocket is lined up with the little arrow, if it isn’t, do a full 360 turn on the crank until it does, and when you put it back just make sure it is in the same position. Same with the front except turn the engine clockwise onto the single straight line with no mark by it, when the dowel is lined up as before. So in that sense it’s just keeping the timing in place rather than resetting it, with known marks and positions.
mę mŷ bïkë ń ì I want to swap out the front cylinder head from a bad motor to a working motor that has the spark plug threads torn so I was wondering if I had to reset the timing. Also do you happen to know how to remove the 2 screws that indicate the timing marks from the stator case? I can’t seem to take them off
@@aname7338 Right so just line the marks up as described when you remove the old one and position the new one. Regarding the timing plug and crank plug, just use the largest flat blade screwdriver or largest coin you have using a pair of pliers for torque. Or a small screwdriver and tap it anti-clockwise with a hammer. I ground down a flat blade. It’s a ridiculous fitting, later models use a hex key I think.
Do u know if a 535 handle bars are 22mm or 1 inch please
they’re 22mm 7/8”
Thank you very helpful and your videos are really informative excellent help
@@Davidthomasv8 you’re welcome mate, thanks for the comment.
Buen video 😊. Mi virago hace un traketeo al acelerar. Pero en ralentí no. Solo al acelerar un ruido fuerte en el cilindro delantero. Que podría ser ??
Hi, the first place I would check is under the front cam cover to check that the chain is not become slack or stretched too much. One way to check is to get the cylinder into top dead centre (TDC) on the front cylinder for the compression stroke. Access the end of the crank from the centre plug on the stator cover and rotate the engine clockwise until the single line, lines up with the mark on the inspection plug hole, (you will also need to remove the smaller inspection plug to see) Then check the dowel on the end of the cam shaft aligns with the triangle mark on the cylinder head with the single line on the stator rotor lined up against the mark on the stator cover simultaneously. If the dowel is 180° out then rotate the crank a further 360° to the line again. Not the ‘T’ mark as that is the rear cylinder. If the dowel on the end of the cam does not point straight to the mark on the head, but is slightly off, then possible the chain has stretched and is loose, and will need to be renewed. At this point you can also wiggle the chain with your finger to get a feel for its tension. There should not be any movement at all. A further verification would be to remove the cam chain tensioner, run the engine, rev it to 3-4000 rpm and manually but very carefully push a rod into the cam chain tensioner hole pressing onto the tensioner bar to make your own tension to see if the noise goes away. If it does, there is your problem and likely the cause. If you watch episode 9 in this playlist at around 48:00 it shows this process quite well. A new chain and tensioner would be needed. The second thing I would check while you have the engine in TDC compression is the inlet and exhaust valve clearances as both of the valves should be shut at this point, you can check the clearances are correct. They should be 0.1mm inlet and 0.15mm exhaust. If one or the other or both are very loose, they will rattle terribly. If you have a look at episode 11 in the playlist at around 18:45 it also demonstrates this. The third thing I would check is exhaust leaks from the cylinder head, on high revving sometimes gas escaping from around the flange from a loose exhaust header pipe can cause a loud ticking noise, which some people mix up with cam chains rattling, so check for leaks by running the engine at high revs and holding a tissue near the header pipe going into the head, see if it blows, and if so, refit new gaskets and tighten the header pipes. Those are all of the possible top end issues, before you need to think about pulling the engine out for a bottom end inspection. I hope that all makes sense my friend. Rich
@@memybikeni9931 Thank you very much for the time to answer. I checked everything. but in the end I had to disassemble the cylinder and I found that the connecting rods were in their last days and making a tac-tac noise. now i will change it
@@rodrigoburgos6190 oh dear, yes connecting rods were my next thought in the bottom end, which is a shame. Engine out job then, hopefully it will be straight forward for you.
@@memybikeni9931 tell me one thing my friend... the pistons and cylinder after disassembling everything... to reassemble it (assemble it) let's assume that I made a mistake and put the rear cylinder in the front and vice versa as well as the head (head)
. Would it be relevant at the moment to want to start it? . greetings
@@rodrigoburgos6190 Shouldn’t be a problem as long as you fit the oil baffle plate to the rear cylinder head along with the correct rear cover as that is the cylinder head that the breather pipe fits to. Aside from that, too much is made of mating parts, returning to their original positions. I honestly wouldn’t worry. Before starting it up, give it a good few turns over with a spanner on the stator bolt.
Electric impact my friend lol
Yup, more torque and I don’t own a cordless.
three head gaskets?
You can think of it more as one composite head gasket. Not uncommon. They are precision made and can actually affect the compression ratio of not correct.