วีดีโอ

Yeah this engine has been fighting me all the way, but it’s getting there. 😊

Standard stuff, if you’ve never seen it done before.

Interesting isn’t it, you worry about a 2 quid screwdriver getting damaged, when it can easily go in the bin or be re sharpened, hardened and tempered back, or be replaced with a 100 other screw drivers laying around the workshop. You can use what ever your OCD demands, I’ll just use a pointy sharp thing that fits. Engine saved, a small price paid or not as it didn’t sustain any damage. Good luck with your projects if you have any on the go, I’m always keen to learn what others are doing. 😊

It is that easy dude, just give it a try 😂

Yes mate as some of the case bolts are inaccessible without he heads off. I’m in the process of cleaning up all the cases, and hopefully soon will get the rebuild under way.

@@memybikeni9931 Awe dang it, thanks for letting me know! I'll mentally prepare myself for the journey ahead. 🔧 Haha

@@arctic_otter it’s pretty straight forward, jus don’t force anything.

Yes, I have a series of videos replacing the chain and sprockets here th-cam.com/video/9fiWWVOorqo/w-d-xo.html

Thank you. This part of the process is very hard work and quite laborious but it’s worth it.

Thanks mate and good luck with your rebuild

What ?

What on earth are you talking about ? Diaphragm is torn, doesn’t need testing, needs replacing. What makes you think I don’t know how to test ? “”Not a pro” correct, welcome pro TH-cam. “Is he using JIS screwdrivers” no, I’m using screwdrivers that fit old screws and for diaphragm replacements, I’m not using any. Not sure what video you’ve been watching 😂

@@memybikeni9931 well, ex-CUSE-me !

@@jerryeinstandig7996 You’re excused. Bye.

Never a truer word spoken 😊

If you haven’t actually removed the engine yet, before doing anything else, do a compression test, so you can see which block is the issue, which will save a lot of initial disassembly. A basic leak down test to see where power is being lost. If compression is going out into the crank case, then likely broken or worn rings. Valve seats won’t be an issue, issues with them will just lose compression, not cause oil to get in anywhere, if you mean valve stem seals, that generally only produces a little blue smoke on start up, it wouldn’t cause oil loss though the exhaust. That is likely getting into the cylinders through the head gasket, broken or worn rings or a crack somewhere in the block. So do a compression test, identify where the issue is, take the head off, inspect the head gasket, which is a 3 ply metal gasket, and at the point if all is ok, then you will need to go lower into the engine. With then engine out, and heads off, put each cylinder into bottom dead centre, and pour petrol in, see how quickly it disappears into the crank case. If one is rapid and one is slow, it’s rings. It could just be the head gasket, or maybe a hole in the piston crown possibly, but you can check that with a quick look down the plug hole. Let me know how you get on.

Thank you for your quick reply! I'll get a compression test set first and go from there. Since there is oil on both spark plugs I have a strong feeling I'll be working on both heads. I'll keep some updates on the progress and your videos will provide most of the information needed. I'm really thankful for the information you provide!

@@dylantendoornkaat6155 probably just worn rings. Question though, if you haven’t compression tested it yet, what makes you think power is down ? Sluggish ? That could be air/fuel, carbs needing a service. Worn rings on both sides not a major drama if your using the bike regularly, it’ll burn off more than it leaves sitting in the cylinder.

Well, when I started her up cold she was spitting oil and I lost power whilst it was riding perfect before so I think it's the valve stem seals on both cylinders. Since both spark plugs were full of oil I just decided to take the engine apart and check both the seals and rings. Now I didn't find any problems on the pistons, tested with some gasoline and it all stays on top without bubbling. Waiting for the tool to remove the valves and the gasket set meanwhile I'll be cleaning all the old gaskets off(what a hell of a job) and then we're back on track! Your videos are really helpful!🤘🏻

@@dylantendoornkaat6155 could be stem seals, just a bit severe to be spitting oil. What happens in first start up, as oil runs down the stems, it gets burnt off on start up, but then disappears. If oil burning continues, it isn’t usually seals. Maybe check the head for runout, may be warped.

It off a 1992 Yamaha Virago XV535

Good luck bud 👍

Well the translation didn’t really make sense, but thank you anyway.

Yeah I don’t know why I didn’t, but in reality it makes little difference, the engine is level, it wouldn’t make a lot of difference, but best practice and all that.

So I don’t know of any study that shows the direction of the clip makes a difference, but it’ll be coming off anyway, so no matter. When I bought the VF750 I didn’t know the extent of the issues. Bought it as a runner, it wasn’t, replaced the starter got it running, then discovered low compression and coolant in the crank case, but I’m getting there. Just cleaning up the cases at present then assessing what I need.

Thanks for the tip, tbh a service of the pump may help, and a mod to the pressure release valve. I have seen other mods running a line straight to the top of the engine off the filter housing, but who knows. Good maintenance is key.

Yep, the cams don’t look too bad actually having pulled the engine apart. Regarding the paint it did smell like wood gloss, when I managed to get the engine running it just bubbled up. I am going to be replacing the crank cases, but have already stripped the terrible paint of most of the rest of the side cases and rocker covers etc. getting there slowly.

Ah I didn’t know that wasn’t stock, but it’ll have to do I think.

Yeah that it was, and I’m determined to make it into my daily rider. It’s a massive job, the calipers are all stuck, the forks need rebuilding, the clocks replacing or making good as they are Rev limited for the Japanese market, and the less said about the bodywork the better. I’ve already cleaned the tank which looks great inside now.

Yes you’re right, looking at it though, 2:58 there is a white plastic rim in the lid, that may be literally it, it’s only meant to secure the diaphragm. This is a 1984 (70s) machine so likely that’s it

That she is

Ah that’s fantastic, I’m so glad it helped. Much love from the U.K. 🇬🇧

Thank you

Hi there

Sorry dude I can’t remember, and no longer have the bike.

Hi there, it’s a Hitatchi from one of the larger XV535s. I have no idea on jet sizes though, I just acquired and fitted it.

You’re welcome hope it helped

Perfect, glad it helped.

That sounds like a very good top tip, I didn’t think of that, using the spring once the corrosion is free. In this instance I barely had to pull so a little shock like you described would have definitely worked.

Could be so many things, have you done some work on the bike, did it just stop running or was it following anything you did ? Things to consider - plugs may spark when you test them against the block but not when they’re fitted, so clean the spark plug seat in the block with a small brush on the end of a dremmel, clean the plug, check the gap, refit and try again. Give the plug caps a wiggle too, you may get a shock, so it could be a dodgy lead(s). Also when you’re seeing the spark when testing against the crank case, make sure you have a thin blue spark, not a great bid fat yellow one. That’s the basics on the electrical side, if it anything to do with that. If that doesn’t work, check the fueling side. Make sure the fuel isn’t stale, if it’s been sat a while, that is a likely cause, spray a little brake cleaner around the intake boots to check for vacuum leaks, see if it fires, if not remove the carbs, spray directly into the intake ports while cranking see if it fires, if it does, you have a carburation issue, so they’ll need a further look. failing all that the only other issue would be cams. If the cams are out of mechanical timing, or the valves are very badly adjusted, and just not opening, this could be the problem, so take the cam covers and rocker covers off and have a look at those. The exhaust on the rear will be hard to get to, but the other 3 are easy enough. You said compression is good, what values are you getting on each cylinder ?

@@memybikeni9931 that’s the problem everything was fine, the valves were spot on the compression around 170 psi … I didn’t have a strobe to check the ignition timing. But i found out eventually that somewhere along the cabling someone made a mistake and reversed the signal cables leading to the ignition pack.

@@Thesarcasticmonk odd one, is your’s a single or double pick up ?

I’m assuming it’s a double pickup since i’ve got 2 signal cables to the coil pack (orange and grey + the neutral white/red).

@@Thesarcasticmonk No, those are the low tension wires coming from the CDI, there will be 4 of them, 2 for each coil, regardless of the signal wire coming from the pickup(s). If there are 4 wires coming from the stator, then that’s 2 pickups. Good it’s solved though,

Thanks!

Thank you, yes definitely need to have the right tool, and I do resort to heat and hammers a lot 😂 glad the videos helped, it’s just nuts, bolts and spanners, always worth digging in

There’s humour and there’s rudeness…

Let that be a lesson to you 👨‍🔧

You have a valid point 😊

You’re welcome, hope it helped.

Thank you 😊

The gaffer tape will hide the scratches

Yeah I noticed than on this one, not sure what the issue was.

Thanks Jay, need to get back to the VF750 F it’s sitting waiting looking at me 😂

Thank you, all fixed and running again, a few issues to sort out, but simple ones

“This has Nothing to do with the battery. It's the charger you're using not turning on because the voltage is too low. ” yes I know, which has everything to do with the battery, as the smart charger can’t determine its polarity as the voltage is too low. “The title should be "How to trick a smart battery charger into charging a completely dead battery.” The charger hasn’t been tricked, it’s been given what it needs to start charging. A battery with some charge and polarity information. “The battery would have charged if connected to a Constant 12v source or a running vehicle via jumper cables” you mean like another 12v battery sat right next to it with jumper cables then flowed by being hooked up to a constant 12v source as shown ? Yes, that’s what happened here it charged with its adjacent battery, enough to let the charger take over. Not sure that running a car or another bike engine for hours on end would be a good alternative, or for most people convenient, let alone a suitable charging method.

Glad you’ve had a lovely long run with the same bike, I always liked the Fazer and bought this last summer, it’s probably the best bike I’ve ever owned. Stylish, comfortable, sporty and cheap.

@@memybikeni9931 I agree. I kept mine for the same reasons. Enough power for me.