My Classic Mini. It looks good, but is it really good ? Part 1, the work-plan
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2020
- This is the first video in a series where I work out all the changes and corrections needed to this Classic Mini. It looks nice and clean, but is it really. I am doing a full inspection, list the workplace and estimate the cost.
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I just discovered your videos and I am already a huge fan of how you explain things in great detail.
Thanks for the comments and view
When i changed from twin 1 1/4 SU's (Original Cooper) to a 40 DCOE it was a big step down. The culprit was the swan neck manifold, and Vizard warned about that. But i was young and stupid, and i can gladly report that i am not young anymore.
Thanks for the comments, and a good tip. So I might need to reconsider the Weber
For a moment I thought you were going to put a 4WD Celica engine and drivetrain in it.
Bill Codey Get the funk outa here! One career mini is enough! 😜🤣
🤣🤣
would sound nice, 'Belgian Binky' :-)
Thanks for the comments, hmmm now you make me think chaps
@@D3Sshooter You will need 6 years and many, many brackets. (check out bad obsession motorsport - project binky)
The estimated cost breakdown is excellent. I wish more experts gave estimated cost breakdowns.
Thanks for the comments
Belgium..........Home to a lot of great beers. #1 place in the world for the most breweries per capita. Cannot wait to get back there (after the shut down).
haha indeed
Great little car my first car was a 1970 Mini 850, then an Australian manufactured 1973 Mini Clubman GT
with a "Cooper S" 1275cc twin SU Carbs and oil cooler and two fuel tanks, both these cars were purchased
new great fun for a young New Zealander all before I was 18 years old.
Thanks for the comments, indeed and if you still has that 1275cc, it would be fun even today
It looks almost the same as my Mini Clubman 1100cc. IT WAS FANTASTIC. I sold it when the baby came along for a Citroen 1100cc Estate, I was £650.00 better off. Mine had DUNLOP DENOVO TYRES, and NOT a spare wheel, did NOT need one, I was told. Very expensive tyres at the time. But they were fantastic to drive. The engine was quite powerful for the frame. It broke away in the third place and I added a Fourth point to hold it in position.
LOVELY MEMORIES
Thanks for sharing
Steve another great video. Just wish I had seen it before I bought mine.
Thanks for the comments
Morning Steve. Yet another fantastic project for your TH-cam family to enjoy 😊 The cost brake down is superb 👍🏻 Being in England this is a real classic car and I had lots of them in the 70s as a young man messing about with them with my mates at a weekend 😃 And I'm 6'2" tall lol 😂The best one I owned was a. 1275 GT 🤣 Looking forward to the next episode. Have a nice weekend catch up soon Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Thanks for the comments Stevie, good to read that you had a 1275GT. Yep they are fun, I had one when I was 18... That is many moons ago.(42)
k halliday good for you. Ps I am not a Brit. I am Flemish, so my mother language is dutch. So, yes you will see spelling mistakes. And you all can correct me. No issue for me as this not a grammar channel. But point taken
You don't have to replace the drive shaft CVs if they are not noisy (which is rarely the case for the inboard joints), just replace the boots, and re pack with molybdenum disulphide grease. Quite an easy job and no special tools needed.
TXS for the comments, and indeed... but I like things new since they are out the car
Learning so much from your videos, inspiring. Thankyou
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for sharing Steve Always very interesting 👍🇦🇺👀
Glad you enjoyed it
Congratulations on such a nice clean find as this Mini is. I don't think that I would replace the C.V. joints, unless they are noisey, but just replace the rubber gaiters and lubricant in each joint. Probably only €30 or thereabouts. If you do use aluminium for a new dash, I would anodise it to stop everything touching it getting blackened by the aluminium. It would also make it more scratch resistant. Just wondering when you sleep though, you seem to get through more projects, and do a great job on them too, than most of us get through hot dinners.👍
Thanks for the comments, and tips... sleep is something I am short off.. I just want to do so many things.
Looks like that was someone's pride and joy.
Thanks for the comments, it was
Great car and video looking forward to seeing the the little mods
You and me both! Thanks for the comments
Good vid, very comprehensive. A few details: no bonnet safety catch, too bad if it pops at high speed; wiring colours - ugh, should be std wiring colours to avoid confusion; bonnet seal - along the back edge only, normally; R subframe - oooer, horrible welding covering over problems, and no drain holes; CV joint gaiters held on with nylon cable ties, no no no, either the proper stainless steel gaiter circlips, or two loops of medium duty steel wire; that kill switch - only fit for my garden wheelbarrow.. A lot of bodgy bits, corners cut, but an OK motor, price to be haggled over. I enjoyed watching, thanks.
Thanks for the comments, there is extra work to be done
Great n nice project, looking forward ، I will follow all the videos. Cheers Steve.
Awesome, thank you!
Very clean Mini. Congratulations on your new acquisition!
Thanks!
That's going to be a hell of a lot of fun, one of the best cars ever.
Thanks for the comments, indeed
I think I would look into tucking that exhaust system up where it belongs. Something funky is going on with the exhaust manifold.
TXS for the comments, and indeed ... it will be checked
Another great car. Really hope to own an old Mini one day as well. Will be great series
You and me both!
Looking forward for future videos . I had a mini and it was my first car ,still love them because you can go really fast around corners :) .
More to come! Thanks for the comments
That Mini could be fitted with Non-vacuum advance distributor 23D type, product code 12G2140, set of centrifugal weights that operate on RPM only. The electronic module vacuum advance distributor is AUU1536.
Thanks for the comments, that is also what I suspected modified bob weights. Or not.. Will find out once I get to work it... The block number decodes to a metro 1000 cc
Pretty fancy intro!
TXS for the comments
Looks like a great car as it is so well done on the find. Looking forward for the “Steve magic” to make it complete!
Thanks for the comments Shaun, we will try
Called it, your very own Binky project car.
Thanks for the comments
Gear selector shaft seal is leaking. Its common. I have replaced hundreds. Never seen a mini, where it isn't leaking. Common practice is to take the old one out and put two seals back in.
Thanks for the comments, and indeed that is another area...two seals seems like plan
Thank you Sr. Looking forward to future videos, just got a 1992 and can use all the help, specially on a engine swap. Have a great day 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks, you too!
A mini nice.I will never forget in 1993 my friend had a mini what was painted like an black and white cow with pink on the bonnet he and my other my other friend a very big guy well they was worked on the carburettor of the mini the bonnet was removed so the door was closed with an open window my friend asked if the mini was out of gear and my big friend reach in through the window and said it was out of gear so my other friend asked my big friend to start it when he started it the mine started driving with him through the window trying to put it of so he let go of the mini and it drove through the naighbors vibrigate wall almost into the swimming pool years later i cant get that image out of my head today its a big lautgh thoug it wasent at tge time though.
Thanks for the comments, hahaha that is indeed one hell of a story
@@D3Sshooter the mini ended up with a new fiberglass nose i think the cow was firsty lol it actualy realy happened the carburetter got stuck.
Hi There,
Thanks for making and sharing these videos. Always great to follow. I enjoy the Landy one mostly.
Just noticed while watching that the car is missing the brake pressure regulating valve in the back sub-frame. Normally where that T piece is. Dont know if you aware of them.
Keep it up and all the best
Regards,
Paul
Thanks for the info! Something to check on. Thanks for the comments
Respect: I've watched and enjoyed most of your videos and have been impressed that you are quite competent in English. But one sentence you spoke early in this video shows a level of English competence greater that 90% of the people I speak with each day (in USA). I am impressed!
How it looks like?
Thanks for the comments, I try
Looks a good car. I would agree with other comments about the weber. Use an SU on a good manifold and free flowing filter and you should get good results. If you are doing the CV joints I would replace the drive shat oil seals at the same time. Just a Good time for a bit of future problem prevention. Very nice project, good luck.
A great reference is the David Vizard book "Tuning the A Series Engine". Highly recommended.
TXS for the comments, good tips and points
Another tech adventure !
Even if this car looks close to perfect and there's not so much things to do, i'll follow the progress as my neighbor also owns a classic Mini to rebuild.
Enjoy! and Thanks for the comments
Nice review.
Glad you enjoyed it
That's a very clean car!
I think so too!
Nice mini, the black plugs aren't really a good indication unless you do a "chop" I.e run it flat in third for half a mile declutch and cut the ignition simultaneously, coast to a stop then check them.
Checking them when the engine is cold and it has only been running without load isn't a good indicator, also modern plugs tend to soot up in old engines with unleaded fuel.
For plug thread lubrication oil isn't the best because its effected by heat, use a lead pencil around the threads.
This is a great little project.
Thanks for the comments, and great tips... did not know the lead pencil part. The Mini is unknown to me, so that will be some exploration
You never get lost in a mini or Landrover, you just follow the oil drips home. LoL
Oil drips ? That is muscle sweat lol
You might want to add a distributor boot if you ever want to drive in wet weather. These are aftermarket and probably not as badly needed since you are going electronic ignition, but wet plug lead connections can also be a problem. Since you won't have ignition points (breaker) you won't need the thumbscrews to remove the grill - probably no use with those lights anyway. Have fun.
TXS for the comments, great tip...thanks
Nice looking Mini - will be really good once you've done as planned. One point on the rear brakes - the bleed nipples are below the feed pipe, which will make bleeding them difficult. That doesn't look right to me, are the drums upside down?
I have no idea, and I will need to have a check. But good points
The Mini looks good, the tweakings should get it to top driving condition. It reminds me of my 1965 mark 1 that I bought back in 2008. It had a 850cc engine, which I love of all the Mini engines but this engine was missing parts like the rockers and pedestal (the previous owner was a Mini fan and had scavenged parts for other projects). The gear lever was the early "Magic Wand" type and single bazel speedometer in the center. My plans were to restore it and use it as a second car for Sunday drives, but had to sell it because of moving house.
Thanks for the comments, that is sad that you had to sell it...
You know all a DCOE will achieve on that is to waste fuel and lose low end poke. That looks like a HIF38 SU and that manifold looks like the MiniSpares type, which will accept an HIF44 of a 1275 Metro. Look out for a 12G295 original 998cc Cooper head.
99H denotes a 998cc motor.
If you want more power, what about a supercharger?
Get a copy of David Vizard's How To Modify BL's A Series Engine.
Swiftune SW5 camshaft is great, but before you buy check what oil pump drive is on yours.
3 different types I think.
The boot seal actually goes on the boot lid, not the edge on the back panel.
That black piece on the carb isn't blocking a vacuum port. It is a vent to the float chamber I think, on the HIF38.
TXS for the comments, and great tips and help...
@@D3Sshooter No problem. I know David Vizard did extensive testing and found a 1.75 inch SU didn't lose significant top end power over a DCOE unless aiming north of around 100bhp. SU carbs provide excellent fuel economy and provide better low end torque on the A Series. Single SU carbs tend to run a little richer on the outer 2 cylinders and leaner on the inner 2. Twin 1.25 SU carbs give a straight shot in to the siamesed inlet ports, providing more even fuelling. If you really like a DCOE, there is a popular supercharger kit sold in the UK that uses a DCOE and provides great power, but remember the gearbox is a weak link.
Seems like this project is just a piece of cake for You)))
Thanks for the comments, it is .. not a lot of work.
It already has 12 inch wheels!😎
Another small detail I noticed is the exhaust clamp at the rear. It looks ugly. I'm sure other clamps are available to make it look neater. But good luck with the project.
Thanks for the comments
Very nice to find your video series. I've just purchased a 1988 Mini, fully restored to a similar level as yours. It has the 1275cc engine (not original). My compression test showed 160 PSI (about 11 Bar) on all four, when engine was warm...was your engine warm or cold for your test? I'm slowly making some changes....also need a different dash & gauges. My engine temp gauge doesn't get much above the Cold mark. And my speedo is always 10% low. I suspect the gauges do not match the engine correctly. Hope to see you provide tips & advice on these when you make those changes on your car.
Thanks for the comments, maybe I will do a video on gauges in general and the off-sets
You pointed to the hose going through the intake manifold and mentioned cooling,I think it is to have hot coolant going through manifold to prevent carburetor iceing in cold weather (below 0 C )
TXS for the comments, you are correct...
Steve, All up this is a very tidy mini for a 82, Fitting a weber will mean you need to modify the bulkhead as there is not enough
space between the trumpets & bulkhead you can see this on my race/track mini build on my channel, The dash is from a Riley
or Elf, Looking forward to see what you do to the car having quite a few minis myself, Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, Thanks for the comments. Nice channel that you have. Been watching alot of your work. So the dash is from a Riley ( good to know).. Some do not recommend the weber, so that is something I will need to reconsider , a HIF 40 (44) might do. By the way did you ever fitted a wideband o2 sensor for a AFR dial display ? I plan to do so. Any advice
nice Austin Mini Steve i look forward to all your vehicle vids' are you going to put sound deadening under the carpet? yes you could bore out the engine or a 1275 GT engine :))
That's the plan!
An oil leak on a mini ? really? how unusual.
The dash is from a Riley Elf ?
As a kid, we would Run Weber carbs but the speedo had to be removed or shifted to one side because the trumpets came into the speedo space. Great noise at full throttle though!. Webers don't work that well because of the siamese ports . What really wakes them up is the cross flow Adern head. ($$$) A big 2" SU worked well and we once even tried a reece Fish carb .
Thanks for the comments, and great tips on the weber... something for me to think off
I used to make the britex graphic kits
oh wow... good to know
wish I'd brought a magnet when I bought my mgb! Waxoil the whole thing while it's still this good. Mine began 'sweating' through the face of the panels after waxoiling it though :(
Thanks for the comments,
So it starts from cold without choke and the plugs are sooty - running rich. How is the timing? Leaks and odd things missing are just the usual stuff classic cars need. This is a good looking car so well done you for finding it.
probably because its annoying to open the bonnet as the choke cable (and the heater cable) are missing
Thanks for the comments, indeed there is still a lot of work that needs to be done , but all small stuff except the CV's
Thanks for the comments, yep indeed
Fun car
Thanks for the comments
Notice there is no cable to the heater valve on the engine block Steve. Is there no heater fitted?
Thanks for the comments, that is another thingy that needs to be sorted out. I did not notice, but now that you say so,,,, Thanks
I would suggest placing black carbon fiber cloth over the current dash.
Thanks for the comments, that is something I do consider
:-) about that welding on the Subframe that's what we call pigeon-shit- welding... its what happens when someone is not skilled in welding, also it will not be very strong as the weld has not penetrated into the metal frame .
The hard brake lines look like copper? They aren't, are they?
TXS for the comments, yep they are
Nice project. A cool idea I got is a collaboration with Julian Edgar (youtube channel name)for aerodynamic mods to this mini 🙂 for example a proper full undertray with a proper rear diffuser.
TXS for the comments, great tip
Bonnet at front boot at rear .
I must have not heard you correctly, thought you said you were going to fix oil leaking from a mini?
Thanks for the comments, yes and after that , those leaks will be called muscle sweat
Hey D3Sshooter, I have a 123 ignition Distributor for minis here that I no longer need. Been used for approx. 1000km but its in pretty much new condition. If you'd like it send me a pm here and we can discuss! Cheers and great videos! Luis
Sounds great! you can contact me steve@flashsplash.be... I do have an interest.
Not sure how much you paid and i think that should be private but it looks like you got a really nice example there. I haven't seen many cleaner ones.
Thanks for the comments, well I have no secrets that was 6000 euro
@@D3Sshooter Oh man, good deal. Best of luck with it.
Those wheels are 12" as I read the tire size on the rear, 165/60 R12
Thanks for the comments, indeed my mistake... did not pay enough attention to it
Bar yes ?not kgs?also the welds on that subframe look questionable in my eye.
Thanks for the comments
The only real problem I can see with this vehicle is that the whole thing has been "got at", it looks like someone's project that never got finished, and to have put the CV joints back in that condition does not give confidence in the rest of the work done, I am sure you will find that there is no rubber seal around the bonnet edges, but there should be one on the boot lid, please do not fit an awful webber carb! The SU is far better, and you have the water heated manifold already, I think you would be better to change the rear subframe with a new one, at the same time you can check the arm bushes for wear, all very easy to change, especially with your new 4 post lift! Stay safe ! Chris B.
Thanks for the comments, there is a lot of work that was done and some of it was not done.. I have seen the pictures of the work... anyhow , I know that there is still a lot that can be corrected and that is the plan. It seems that many do not recommend the weber...
@Indosarnia No that is no joke, looking at the weld around the rear subframe, the atrocious re use of the CVJs the poor spray work I would be very dubious abut driving this car in anger, for the sub frame to require such welding it must have been in an advanced state of rust, so replacing it would be the only option, if it was anyone else but Steve that bought this it would be a potential problem , but I am sure we will see a catalogue of errors as he re builds it.
Daily driver or a track Queen ?
Thanks for the comments, that will be a drag or track Queen
Project Binky... In Colour! Wait sorry wrong channel.
In all serious if you haven't already look up bad obsession motorsports on you tube.
TXS for the comments
Your OCD really kicked in here lol. You should get some new CV joints for £100
TXS for the comments
NGK plugs in a Brit vehicle? ;-)
The early Minis came with Champion spark plugs, but since then NGK are the preffered brand. Even the well known Mini manuals list NGK plugs. NGK are very good, quality plugs and their range is broad for every vehicle.
ngk were better than champion plugs
looks like this car has been used on track
TXS for the comments, maybe
@@D3Sshooter thanks to you for share your jobs
I think you ment to say carbon monoxide instead of dioxide.
Thanks for the comments, yes indeed. CO and not CO2 Good point
Gordons name is spelt wrong on the side, btcc.fandom.com/wiki/Gordon_Spice
Thanks for the comments, I don't even know who he is... its the previous owner who added all that stuff. I will remove it. Thanks
Thanks for the link, I did check it and noticed a mini with the same markings as mine.
Ok, what is a carter? U S A auto sites revert question to Carter Carbs.
@Indosarnia Thanks.................
oil pan... I might have mist that in translation
hahaha, and I am flemish , that explains it
Someone did hack job on this car.
TXS for the comments, indeed
And I thought canada was bad for inspection rules....Jesus Christ.
TXS for the comments, oh yes here its a hell and you are left with mechanics that are just to st---d but feel that they have the power to say whatever they want
I don't like the colour at all......yuk🤢🤢🤢🤢
Thanks for the comments, lucky me... lol