Please don’t apologize for being too technical. Your instructional style and delivery is exemplary and flows very nicely through the various points. You’re a natural instructor. Personally I would rather know all there is to know, then when something isn’t working right, fall back on that knowledge to troubleshoot. I watched your Weber videos too (where’s the part 3?) and looking forward to the next in this series.
@@D3Sshooter and just off the back of what G Bhoday said when it comes to any carbs the more information you know about your chosen carb the easier it is to tune and if you are not able to understand how your chosen carb works then don't get messing about with them and leave it to someone that does
Excellent video with a perfect level of technical detail - keep up this great work and anyone complaining about the level of information being too technical should remain ignorant by watching another channel.
Excellent video 👏,best one i watched in years,no crappy music in background,no ads,watched it from beginning to the end without getting bored, thank You 👍
More great info. If you want to do the job correctly then you need to understand the details. You explain this very well. Your example setup is a good indication of how it can go wrong when you just guess. Thanks again for your work.
I have a "SU Eliminator"" carburetor on my Harley-Davidson Shovel-head , i was looking for a tutorial to tun it since decade , and , here you are ! with this perfectly clear lesson ! Thanks
i have recently found your video's and they are excellent. You ned the technical to fully understand. Your tone and speech are excellent for learning. Very well done.
The more people watch the videos the less technical the videos will become for people having issues. Really enjoying the content like I did with the DCOE carbs. Keep up the great work. Jim 👍😀
I'm a 30 year Porsche/BMW/Mini tech. Was working on my R53 Cooper S and a nice retired couple saw me and asked if I worked on British cars. Went over and they had a 1959 Morris Minor is pretty good shape. Motor rebuilt a few years ago, but never dialed in. Running rich, bogging out on hard acceleration. I grew up rebuilding Webers and Solex. Never worked on an SU. Thank you for expanding my knowledge base. I appreciate your style.
Just rebuild my HIF44 on a 1.6 Vitara G16B in a Suzuki samurai, can't thank you enough for the videos, couldn't have done it without these, great work 👍
Thank you for a very interesting video. When I was an apprentice telecommunications technician in 1971 I owned a mk1 Triumph 2000 with overdrive on 3rd and 4th gears. It had two Stromberg carbs, which are very similar to the SU examples. The mechanics I talked to suggested I use 3-in-one household oil for the dampers. I checked the oil level regularly. It wasn't necessary to adjust the twin carbs in the time I had the car. I sold it when the top gasket blew. The top was skimmed, but after about 1500 miles it blew again. That meant the block would have to be skimmed, which meant a complete engine overhaul. I had a new head gasket fitted and traded it for a brand new 1973 Datsun 1200 GX.
Thanks for the detailed explanations. For anyone who wants to know, the popular 3-IN-ONE oil is SAE 20. I use in my SU HS2s mounted in '60 Sprite. Cheers!
That's about the best video I've found. I'm setting up my jaguar HIF7s and the book says 2 2/3rd turns from the bridge, but I found that too much. This guy got it best at 2 turns.
Brilliant series of videos. Don’t listen to the knockers. They could do the proper thing and just move on. For me, the level of detail is perfect to gain a better understanding of these undervalued carburetors
VERY INFORMATIVE! I've watched this countless times and can't wait to see what I have... MAC10031 WK 41 93 in a MINI titled 1977. Thank you for pointing me in all the correct directions.
Your videos is amazing. I've read about carbs for years as i have a inline 4 carbs Yamaha xj650, a saab V4 (now with a weber, which makes more sense to me), and lately a clubam 71 with a SU HS4. But never before did i find as good explanations as on your channel. It really helps me understand the last bits i was missing. Thank you so much for your great work. And obviously i'm subscribing and pinging this channel. Best Regarrds /Johannes
I don’t have a SU carburettor however this has been incredibly interesting, please please don’t apologise for being to technical after all this is learning! Thanks to your video and some information from auto data carburettor manual I’ve been able to setup my infamous Varajet 2 carburettor, I just need to make my own vacuum gauge to measure the small amount of vacuum I need to set it up to for it to be as near perfect as I can get it (my vacuum gauge is hard to read for small amount that I require 100mm H2O is 0.28 inHg). Also I wanted to say thanks for the information on the Air fuel ratio gauge I looked at these before to use as a setup guide rather than using a garage exhaust gas analyser, the research I done off the back of your video has showed me that the air fuel ratio Co, co2 and hydrocarbons are all linked together so I’m now confident that when I take my car for its MOT (annual inspection) it should pass the emissions. So a big thanks again! Sorry for the long comment, I wanted to show my appreciation 😃 thanks you. Steve.
Thank you very much. This is just perfect!!!! And if somebody think this is too technical, then they need to go somewhere else. The teaching is just perfect.... thanks again
Your knowledge in mini is absolutely amazing. I wish you were close to where I live so I could get your help in perfectly tuning me hif44 carb and the engine. I have my first mini and have no idea whether it drives as it should because I have no reference. Below is my engine spec : * Head: KAD 12G940 ROAD100 CYLINDER HEAD * Cam: KAD100 Camshaft and single HIF44 * HIF44 * BDK needle * Lightweight flywheel * Pre verto clutch - performance clutch * 1275 Metro block bore to 1310 + 5 speed manual trans. Looking at my dashpot spring, it has no marks or color so I don't know what spring is in it. It had a cone filter but because it was so noisy to drive this car, I placed an original mini round filter box to help with the carb noise in the cabin. The car was very smelly and gave me a head ache when driving, but after seeing your video I got a colortune and fiddled with the mixture and it is better now, but still have the smell in the cabin. How can I make sure this car is optimally tuned at all RPMs? Also does a richer mixture mean more torque?
24:20 I'm glad that you mentioned the SAE spec of the oil. I worked for a UK leyland cars dealer - Austin/Morris, MG, Triumph, Rover, Jaguar etc. in the 1970s and there was a lot of confusion over what to put in the dashpot. Many people used 20/50 engine oil (obviously too thick) some used ATF fluid, I used 3 in 1 oil because the SU oil wasn't widely available. The thick engine oil did cause some problems in winter.
The trouble is that a lot of the BMC/BL manuals actually tell you to use 20w50, which yes, is too thick. I'm fairly involved with Morris Minors and a lot of people still doggedly cling to the factory recommendation of 20w50. I use the SU stuff; I figure the actual carb manufacturers know best here.
I'm lost, seems to me that at a colder temperature SAE 20 and 20W50 are the same viscosity ? This oil will never reach engine temps, so it doesn't sound like SAE 20 and multigrade 20w50 are very different in that application...
@@TheThunderwars Except that on an engine that is fully warmed up the carb temp will probably be somewhere between 30C and 50C so the 20W50 oil will be thicker than the SAE 20 oil. The lower rating is measured at -17.8C and the upper rating is at 100C.
Excellent video! I switched to ATF on my Hitachi SU’s for my 240z. ATF is is equivalent to SAE 15. It dramatically improved the throttle response. Won’t ever go back to SAE 20.
Another excellent video. Learning so much here. I am about to start my rebuilt A-Series engine in the next few days and this has given me so additional info to check before starting it.
A suggestion: after you assemble the piston and Spring inside the bell and screw the bell down you may want to use the lifting pin to lift up and drop the piston a couple of times to make certain that it isn't sticking on the inside of the bell. If it does stick you may have to shim one of the tie down screws on the bell to relieve the piston so that it falls freely otherwise it would be difficult to turn the carb properly.
So, if i have learned anything so far, on the next drive i would expect the mixtures to be very similar but the damper oil should have stopped the initial lean on flooring the accelerator and smoothed out the graph in the top gear acceleration but still be too lean over all.. perhaps needing the BFY needle? Thanks again, i am enjoying this series on road tuning with the AFR and how the SU carby works.
Thank you very much for the video, it has been very educational. I have a Montego 1.6 with a SU HIF44 carburetor, it is quite difficult to start and runs poorly after spending a day stopped. The stepper motor is new. I understand that the carburetor circuit is empty of fuel. How could I fix it? I would appreciate some guidance. Thank you so much
Loved the video it was perfect and now very understood how to tune this carb for initial run ty for your time in making this video it is very much appreciated.. I got a mini into my shop today and it was running like dog .... I didn't watch the video but I have tuned the carb and changed the spark plugs and the car is running smooth but I would like to take it apart and retune the car it smokes a lot while driving but but I'm thinking it's more than the car running rich maybe rings or valve stem seals I'm going to change the seals since it's the easiest and will go from there thanks again
Steve, I've taken the manifold off, cleaned and replaced the gaskets, I rebuilt the carbs, put everything back on, but I didn't pay attention to the linkage. Could you show how to set it properly, on the car, I don't want to take it all apart again, I think I've done a really good job, up to that point. I'd like to have new exhaust fitted asap. Rover TC
learning about this now, and have a couple questions. What could be the cause of the dash pot oil being empty over night? What is the consequence of not having oil in the dashpot? Could that cause the engine to stutter? Thank you very much.
First I must say what an extraordinary teacher you are! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I noticed that this carb looks like it is designed for manifold vacuum. Why is this the case rather than having a hole inside the throttle plate for ported vacuum? I would have thought that on a Metro ported vacuum would be used. Thanks. Lin
Hi, was the SU manual the source of all the detail you provided in this video? I'm about to recommission a pair of H4 carrbs on my 1275 Cooper S. Thanks for your comprehensive description of the issues I need to be aware of.
I have a 1947 Bentley Mark VI, 4.25 with the H4 body and have no tags. Is there any other way to tell me what exact Spec number I'm running? BTW, great informative video, thank you!
Thank you for this. I inherited an 1959 Austin Healey BN6 with spare parts, including carbs. With your videos, I will be able to rebuild them, then having them available for future use. I will also can be a resource for the British Car Club.
Hi D3Sshooter, My 1974 MGB GT (UK) has different part numbers on her two SU HIF4: Front (tag: AUD616R): Suction chamber: PDC 12 A Piston: PDC 6A / AUC 1331 Piston damper: AUC 8103 Rear (no tag): Suction chamber: PDC 15 Piston: AUC 1331 Piston damper: AUC 8114 The piston damper on the front carb has a lot more friction than the rear one. As a result the piston is much harder to raise. Should I put an AUC 8114 piston damper into the front carb's suction chamber? Thanks!
I have learned more about SU carbs from watching your videos than I have learned in all the years I drove my 66 MGB. How do I know whether my carbs just need tuning or if they should be rebuilt? Is air leakage where the throttle shaft goes through the carb a common problem on these?
Not an easy answer to pin-point things out. In general they need a rebuild after about 100.000Km, but much depends on how the car was driven. In each case , acceleration loss, power loss, rough idle are all signs ( if all else is oK) that the carb needs a bit of TLC. The spindle ca have an airleak, not very common as far as i have seen.. the easy way is to spray start pilot on the spindle and see if the engine reacts, if it does ( run it on idle) the you have an airleak
A question sir, so my HIF44 carb didn't have the tag it was initially built with. What would be a good baseline needle for it? I am currently running a 1293 engine with 266 cam and of course the HIF44 carb. I did check all the electrical components and ensured the gap clearance on both the spark plug and lifters were set the to best setting possible. As well as checked the timing. I will be following your AFR gauge installation video. I think that will help me with tuning as there is no real mini experts to reach out to here.
Thanks for the comments , I would think that a good baseline would be: needle :BFY, piston spring:AUD4355, Damper LZX 2085, Needle Valve:VZX1099, Float: WZX1509
I have looked at the web site, the one you show the needle graph. would this also work well for an old type of su carb?, I have a 1.1/2 carb fitted in a 998cc mini . I think the needle is an AAC . I'm trying to improve the running of the engine. Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks
Hi. I have twin su’s from a 46 2.5l MkIV Jaguar. When I remove my dash pot, there is no spring under them, and when I remove the vented brass cap (damper?), there is no rod. Is this just an early version of an SU, and do u still require oil in them ? Thanks
Great video. I have dual SU HIF44 on my '72 MGB. I was going to attempt to change all the bottom parts (float, needle and seat) while the carburetors are still on the vehicle. Is this possible? I've already done it on my '77 TR7 which has dual Zenith Stromberg CD175 carbs. You just need a good mirror and a little patience. I'm wondering has anybody done this with twin SU HIF44 carbs on an MGB? Anyway very informative video. I didn't know baseline on the jet is flush plus two turns clockwise. Thanks for that information. As long as I have HIF44 the float distance is 1mm, correct?
Ma786sai Dua Absolutely terrific. I loved your video. Mine is a SU HIF7. My car a 1982 Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit. It runs fabulously. But Mixture is very RICH. I know this because every few months my NGK plugs go black. Do I need to REMOVE BOTH SU HIF-7 to WEAKEN the mixture? God bless you Cyrus
I like watching your videos very much, very good advice with the manuals... I've owned three Minis. I've also funny enough owned three Triumph Vitesse convertibles (and many more weird things). The Triumphs had twin Strombergs which looked identical to the SU's. Being lazy and as it is so many years since I had them and having probably forgotten the details..Why were they so similar..?
not as far as I know, off course it has less or no lead in it so the fuel is more dry as they say. In each case I have not seen it, which does not mean that it is not possible
What a great video! Thank you for explaining it all so clearly. I may have a basic question about the oil you use at the 24:20 mark. you mention it to be "SAE grade 20". Does this mean that it is engine oil 20W50?
@@D3Sshooter Thank you. I have found some UK suppliers online that seem legit. I was hoping to avoid the costly shipping, but it is what it is. Thanks again for making these videos. They are a great help to SU newbies like myself.
I love this series on AFR and tuning your SU carby.... BUT..... is there going to be a final episode? You've shown getting the data from AFR, you've shown how to base tune your SU... but what about aligning the SU to the data that you have gathered.. and seeing the SU perform? I am a massive fan of your videos. I started with the spray booth videos - as I intend to build one. Keep up the excellent work!
Then just look at all the parts, most have a number or marker on them. Of course you need to disassemble it first. With all that you can esthablish the baseline on that carb. You will need to look it up on the SU reference manual. If it is on a car, then you can also look up the standards for that SU on that specific car. The SU manual provides a listing for cars. Of course it could have been fitted afterwards. That is why, its best to check all the part numbers and compair
A smaller Venturi will provide a higher velocity of air flow past the jets, thus meaning more fuel is drawn thru the jet. Too large of a Venturi will not provide sufficient air velocity and thus insufficient fuel.
Please don’t apologize for being too technical. Your instructional style and delivery is exemplary and flows very nicely through the various points. You’re a natural instructor. Personally I would rather know all there is to know, then when something isn’t working right, fall back on that knowledge to troubleshoot. I watched your Weber videos too (where’s the part 3?) and looking forward to the next in this series.
Thanks for the comments, will take your wise words
@@D3Sshooter and just off the back of what G Bhoday said when it comes to any carbs the more information you know about your chosen carb the easier it is to tune and if you are not able to understand how your chosen carb works then don't get messing about with them and leave it to someone that does
I only have when try and fix my carbuay on my Angie be in my from my it doesn’t go all the way down
The technical content makes for better understanding and removes some of the myths associated with carburettors. Super!
Thanks for the comments
The technical content is what makes your videos interesting and sets them apart from the others. Great learning channel. Thanks so much.
I appreciate that!
Excellent video with a perfect level of technical detail - keep up this great work and anyone complaining about the level of information being too technical should remain ignorant by watching another channel.
Thanks, will do!
Technical content can never be too technical. I learned a lot and enjoyed every bit of it.
Thank you for the comments
Without this amazing video I would never have been able to fix my car and get it running again! Love from little Anguilla.
Thank you
Excellent video 👏,best one i watched in years,no crappy music in background,no ads,watched it from beginning to the end without getting bored, thank You 👍
More great info. If you want to do the job correctly then you need to understand the details. You explain this very well. Your example setup is a good indication of how it can go wrong when you just guess. Thanks again for your work.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a "SU Eliminator"" carburetor on my Harley-Davidson Shovel-head , i was looking for a tutorial to tun it since decade , and , here you are ! with this perfectly clear lesson !
Thanks
Glad I could help
Engaging factual descriptive content without waffle. Outstanding video and sound
Thanks for the comments
i have recently found your video's and they are excellent. You ned the technical to fully understand. Your tone and speech are excellent for learning. Very well done.
Wow, thank you!
Every time I touch the SU‘s on my TR6, I check again your videos to make sure I don‘t miss anything - great job 👍
Thanks for another excellent video on the SU Carburettor. Really enjoying this series and looking forward to seeing the next one.
More to come!
The more people watch the videos the less technical the videos will become for people having issues. Really enjoying the content like I did with the DCOE carbs. Keep up the great work. Jim 👍😀
Thanks for that!
Too technical?
That is the fun part.
And thx for uploading on a friday evening as it blended well with my Laphroaig 😁
Thanks for the comments
I'm a 30 year Porsche/BMW/Mini tech. Was working on my R53 Cooper S and a nice retired couple saw me and asked if I worked on British cars. Went over and they had a 1959 Morris Minor is pretty good shape. Motor rebuilt a few years ago, but never dialed in. Running rich, bogging out on hard acceleration.
I grew up rebuilding Webers and Solex. Never worked on an SU. Thank you for expanding my knowledge base. I appreciate your style.
Just rebuild my HIF44 on a 1.6 Vitara G16B in a Suzuki samurai, can't thank you enough for the videos, couldn't have done it without these, great work 👍
Great to hear! and thanks for coming back to me...
Thank you for a very interesting video. When I was an apprentice telecommunications technician in 1971 I owned a mk1 Triumph 2000 with overdrive on 3rd and 4th gears. It had two Stromberg carbs, which are very similar to the SU examples. The mechanics I talked to suggested I use 3-in-one household oil for the dampers. I checked the oil level regularly. It wasn't necessary to adjust the twin carbs in the time I had the car. I sold it when the top gasket blew. The top was skimmed, but after about 1500 miles it blew again. That meant the block would have to be skimmed, which meant a complete engine overhaul. I had a new head gasket fitted and traded it for a brand new 1973 Datsun 1200 GX.
Thanks for the comments, That was a nice car age TR 2000. I also had a Dolomite Sprint at some time in 1978.....
Thanks for the detailed explanations. For anyone who wants to know, the popular 3-IN-ONE oil is SAE 20. I use in my SU HS2s mounted in '60 Sprite. Cheers!
I use 20w50 engine oil in mine
That's about the best video I've found. I'm setting up my jaguar HIF7s and the book says 2 2/3rd turns from the bridge, but I found that too much. This guy got it best at 2 turns.
Thank you and enjoy your Jag
Although i haven't fiddle with a carburetor since fixing a vespa moped back in the 80s, your videos are very interesting and informative!
Thank you very much!
Please keep it technical! It's really interesting and we learn so much!
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for the comments, I will
Brilliant series of videos. Don’t listen to the knockers. They could do the proper thing and just move on. For me, the level of detail is perfect to gain a better understanding of these undervalued carburetors
Exactly!
Thanks for the comments
VERY INFORMATIVE! I've watched this countless times and can't wait to see what I have... MAC10031 WK 41 93 in a MINI titled 1977. Thank you for pointing me in all the correct directions.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial! You explain it in such detail. So very perfect.
Your videos is amazing. I've read about carbs for years as i have a inline 4 carbs Yamaha xj650, a saab V4 (now with a weber, which makes more sense to me), and lately a clubam 71 with a SU HS4. But never before did i find as good explanations as on your channel. It really helps me understand the last bits i was missing. Thank you so much for your great work. And obviously i'm subscribing and pinging this channel. Best Regarrds /Johannes
Thanks for the comments, and much appreciated
Nicely made and great quality of both the video and the instructions. I learned a ton and can think of 150 questions for you. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! shoot the questions
I think it is the best video Ive ever seen on TH-cam- thank You for sharing the knowledge !
Thank you so much for posting this fantastic video. It has given me the confidence to totally refurbish my HS2 carburetors 👍🏼
I don’t have a SU carburettor however this has been incredibly interesting, please please don’t apologise for being to technical after all this is learning! Thanks to your video and some information from auto data carburettor manual I’ve been able to setup my infamous Varajet 2 carburettor, I just need to make my own vacuum gauge to measure the small amount of vacuum I need to set it up to for it to be as near perfect as I can get it (my vacuum gauge is hard to read for small amount that I require 100mm H2O is 0.28 inHg).
Also I wanted to say thanks for the information on the Air fuel ratio gauge I looked at these before to use as a setup guide rather than using a garage exhaust gas analyser, the research I done off the back of your video has showed me that the air fuel ratio Co, co2 and hydrocarbons are all linked together so I’m now confident that when I take my car for its MOT (annual inspection) it should pass the emissions.
So a big thanks again! Sorry for the long comment, I wanted to show my appreciation 😃 thanks you. Steve.
Thanks for the comments, you make blush.... and txs for sharing your views
You have the best video of explication on a carburator hid 44. Merci
Thanks for the comments
Thank you very much. This is just perfect!!!! And if somebody think this is too technical, then they need to go somewhere else. The teaching is just perfect.... thanks again
Thanks for the comments
Thanks for great videos!! You helped me get my Reliant Rialto from a rusty heep to fully MOTed and tuned up! 😊
Great to hear!
You're missing the wire circlip fitted in the groove at the top of the slide on the piston.
Yes, and is not needed as such for the functioning..
I must agree completely with G Bhoday, who so eloquently described my exact sentiments. Thank you, to you both.
Your knowledge in mini is absolutely amazing. I wish you were close to where I live so I could get your help in perfectly tuning me hif44 carb and the engine. I have my first mini and have no idea whether it drives as it should because I have no reference. Below is my engine spec :
* Head: KAD 12G940 ROAD100 CYLINDER HEAD
* Cam: KAD100 Camshaft and single HIF44
* HIF44
* BDK needle
* Lightweight flywheel
* Pre verto clutch - performance clutch
* 1275 Metro block bore to 1310
+ 5 speed manual trans.
Looking at my dashpot spring, it has no marks or color so I don't know what spring is in it.
It had a cone filter but because it was so noisy to drive this car, I placed an original mini round filter box to help with the carb noise in the cabin.
The car was very smelly and gave me a head ache when driving, but after seeing your video I got a colortune and fiddled with the mixture and it is better now, but still have the smell in the cabin. How can I make sure this car is optimally tuned at all RPMs? Also does a richer mixture mean more torque?
Thanks and as per above
24:20 I'm glad that you mentioned the SAE spec of the oil. I worked for a UK leyland cars dealer - Austin/Morris, MG, Triumph, Rover, Jaguar etc. in the 1970s and there was a lot of confusion over what to put in the dashpot. Many people used 20/50 engine oil (obviously too thick) some used ATF fluid, I used 3 in 1 oil because the SU oil wasn't widely available. The thick engine oil did cause some problems in winter.
The trouble is that a lot of the BMC/BL manuals actually tell you to use 20w50, which yes, is too thick. I'm fairly involved with Morris Minors and a lot of people still doggedly cling to the factory recommendation of 20w50. I use the SU stuff; I figure the actual carb manufacturers know best here.
2t oil designed for auto lube systems is usually around 20w.
I'm lost, seems to me that at a colder temperature SAE 20 and 20W50 are the same viscosity ? This oil will never reach engine temps, so it doesn't sound like SAE 20 and multigrade 20w50 are very different in that application...
@@TheThunderwars Except that on an engine that is fully warmed up the carb temp will probably be somewhere between 30C and 50C so the 20W50 oil will be thicker than the SAE 20 oil. The lower rating is measured at -17.8C and the upper rating is at 100C.
@@bimble7240 Thanks you very much. Would you recommend straight SAE20 or 3 in 1 ? Thanks :)
Excellent video!
I switched to ATF on my Hitachi SU’s for my 240z. ATF is is equivalent to SAE 15.
It dramatically improved the throttle response. Won’t ever go back to SAE 20.
Another excellent video. Learning so much here. I am about to start my rebuilt A-Series engine in the next few days and this has given me so additional info to check before starting it.
Good luck! I am sure that you will enjoy your rebuild
Great video and very informative just what i needed to get a base line on my Rover P6b.
Thanks for the comments
Fantastic video and thank you for being technical
Any time!
A suggestion: after you assemble the piston and Spring inside the bell and screw the bell down you may want to use the lifting pin to lift up and drop the piston a couple of times to make certain that it isn't sticking on the inside of the bell. If it does stick you may have to shim one of the tie down screws on the bell to relieve the piston so that it falls freely otherwise it would be difficult to turn the carb properly.
Very good content, You explain very well, I have an hif 44 & will now buy a reference book as i am curious what it came out of.
Thanks for the comments
This is perfect. I just picked up a Volvo with an SU carb and was looking for more info on it
Glad I could help
Always an outstanding video and presentation.
You make the best video's im here for your knowledge
Thank you, and we try
So, if i have learned anything so far, on the next drive i would expect the mixtures to be very similar but the damper oil should have stopped the initial lean on flooring the accelerator and smoothed out the graph in the top gear acceleration but still be too lean over all.. perhaps needing the BFY needle?
Thanks again, i am enjoying this series on road tuning with the AFR and how the SU carby works.
Indeed, soon the tuning video
Just excellent and practical
Thanks for the comments
Great video - very helpful. One question please - where does the damper gasket fit??? Cannot find any videos of changing the gasket for my HD8 E-type
Thank you very much for the video, it has been very educational. I have a Montego 1.6 with a SU HIF44 carburetor, it is quite difficult to start and runs poorly after spending a day stopped. The stepper motor is new. I understand that the carburetor circuit is empty of fuel. How could I fix it? I would appreciate some guidance. Thank you so much
A great video, and soo well explained . Thank you
Thank you
You make it so easy to understand, thanks!
Loved the video it was perfect and now very understood how to tune this carb for initial run ty for your time in making this video it is very much appreciated.. I got a mini into my shop today and it was running like dog .... I didn't watch the video but I have tuned the carb and changed the spark plugs and the car is running smooth but I would like to take it apart and retune the car it smokes a lot while driving but but I'm thinking it's more than the car running rich maybe rings or valve stem seals I'm going to change the seals since it's the easiest and will go from there thanks again
Very helpful video.
When do you put the retaining clip on the piston?
Steve, I've taken the manifold off, cleaned and replaced the gaskets, I rebuilt the carbs, put everything back on, but I didn't pay attention to the linkage. Could you show how to set it properly, on the car, I don't want to take it all apart again, I think I've done a really good job, up to that point. I'd like to have new exhaust fitted asap. Rover TC
Brian, if you tell me which carb SU's you have and how many, then i can pass you an answer by mail...\ send your mail to steve@flashsplash.be
@@D3Sshooter I will do that after dinner Steve, thank you. Rover TC 2 carbs, HIF4 SU
You're awesome. Love all of your videos.
learning about this now, and have a couple questions. What could be the cause of the dash pot oil being empty over night? What is the consequence of not having oil in the dashpot? Could that cause the engine to stutter?
Thank you very much.
First I must say what an extraordinary teacher you are! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I noticed that this carb looks like it is designed for manifold vacuum. Why is this the case rather than having a hole inside the throttle plate for ported vacuum? I would have thought that on a Metro ported vacuum would be used. Thanks. Lin
Do you replace the spring or can you stretch it to increase the pressure? Also, thanks! You are very informative!
Yes you can, but I would not. I rather would get the right the loaded spring
@@D3Sshooter thanks, that's what I thought but I was curious if you'd have a good argument for stretching an old one.
I’m still waiting mini test after tuning 😢 where is part video
At 17:53 minutes I see a chart from a , what catalog is that , the SU Books ?
Hi, was the SU manual the source of all the detail you provided in this video? I'm about to recommission a pair of H4 carrbs on my 1275 Cooper S. Thanks for your comprehensive description of the issues I need to be aware of.
That was wonderfully explained
I have a 1947 Bentley Mark VI, 4.25 with the H4 body and have no tags. Is there any other way to tell me what exact Spec number I'm running? BTW, great informative video, thank you!
Thank you for this. I inherited an 1959 Austin Healey BN6 with spare parts, including carbs. With your videos, I will be able to rebuild them, then having them available for future use. I will also can be a resource for the British Car Club.
Hi D3Sshooter,
My 1974 MGB GT (UK) has different part numbers on her two SU HIF4:
Front (tag: AUD616R):
Suction chamber: PDC 12 A
Piston: PDC 6A / AUC 1331
Piston damper: AUC 8103
Rear (no tag):
Suction chamber: PDC 15
Piston: AUC 1331
Piston damper: AUC 8114
The piston damper on the front carb has a lot more friction than the rear one. As a result the piston is much harder to raise.
Should I put an AUC 8114 piston damper into the front carb's suction chamber?
Thanks!
I have learned more about SU carbs from watching your videos than I have learned in all the years I drove my 66 MGB.
How do I know whether my carbs just need tuning or if they should be rebuilt? Is air leakage where the throttle shaft goes through the carb a common problem on these?
Not an easy answer to pin-point things out. In general they need a rebuild after about 100.000Km, but much depends on how the car was driven. In each case , acceleration loss, power loss, rough idle are all signs ( if all else is oK) that the carb needs a bit of TLC. The spindle ca have an airleak, not very common as far as i have seen.. the easy way is to spray start pilot on the spindle and see if the engine reacts, if it does ( run it on idle) the you have an airleak
@@D3Sshooter thanks. I hadn’t thought of that.
Well done again mate👍
Thank you! Cheers!
brilliant presentation well explained
Glad it was helpful!
How do you determine what carb. you have if the tags are missing. Mine is on a 1973 MGB Veh. number 301725, 18V engine
I have a question. damper is two type .. what is the difference vented, non vented??
Its a little hole on the top of the damper that allows a faster upwards and movement... IT all depends whic carb you have and should be matched
thank you for your answer..
A question sir, so my HIF44 carb didn't have the tag it was initially built with. What would be a good baseline needle for it? I am currently running a 1293 engine with 266 cam and of course the HIF44 carb. I did check all the electrical components and ensured the gap clearance on both the spark plug and lifters were set the to best setting possible. As well as checked the timing. I will be following your AFR gauge installation video. I think that will help me with tuning as there is no real mini experts to reach out to here.
Thanks for the comments , I would think that a good baseline would be: needle :BFY, piston spring:AUD4355, Damper LZX 2085, Needle Valve:VZX1099, Float: WZX1509
I love the technical explanations! thank you.
I won't do it that way, because I am lazy...But thank you!
Excellent explanation.......I love webers...... S.U seem old school/Alien.....but now you have explained it....they are very simple !
Thanks for the comments
I have looked at the web site, the one you show the needle graph. would this also work well for an old type of su carb?, I have a 1.1/2 carb fitted in a 998cc mini . I think the needle is an AAC . I'm trying to improve the running of the engine. Any ideas would be welcome. Thanks
Hi. I have twin su’s from a 46 2.5l MkIV Jaguar. When I remove my dash pot, there is no spring under them, and when I remove the vented brass cap (damper?), there is no rod.
Is this just an early version of an SU, and do u still require oil in them ?
Thanks
That might be a very old model, what is the number on it
Great video. I have dual SU HIF44 on my '72 MGB. I was going to attempt to change all the bottom parts (float, needle and seat) while the carburetors are still on the vehicle. Is this possible? I've already done it on my '77 TR7 which has dual Zenith Stromberg CD175 carbs. You just need a good mirror and a little patience. I'm wondering has anybody done this with twin SU HIF44 carbs on an MGB?
Anyway very informative video. I didn't know baseline on the jet is flush plus two turns clockwise. Thanks for that information. As long as I have HIF44 the float distance is 1mm, correct?
Do you have the link to your carb disassembly video?
Any chance of a weber 45 tuning? 🤔😳
I have a video on the DCOE ( in fact 3)
Ma786sai Dua
Absolutely terrific. I loved your video. Mine is a SU HIF7. My car a 1982 Rolls-Royce Silver Spirit. It runs fabulously. But Mixture is very RICH. I know this because every few months my NGK plugs go black. Do I need to REMOVE BOTH SU HIF-7 to WEAKEN the mixture? God bless you
Cyrus
Superb video. Thank you so much.
is the circlip on top of damper tube not needed
yes it is needed..
I like watching your videos very much, very good advice with the manuals... I've owned three Minis. I've also funny enough owned three Triumph Vitesse convertibles (and many more weird things). The Triumphs had twin Strombergs which looked identical to the SU's. Being lazy and as it is so many years since I had them and having probably forgotten the details..Why were they so similar..?
Glad you like them! Both work on the same principles, just another brand
It’s hard to add oil with the dashpot installed. It usually ends up spilling around the damper tube into the piston recess. Is this bad?
What kind of table vise are you using?
This is an excellent video.
Where may I acquire a copy of the "SU Spare Parts and Specification Catalogue"?
Thanks for the comments, at Burlen UK... Just google SU needles and they will pop up
Perfectly technical 👌🏻
Thanks for the comments
Excellent video - not too technical, at least for me. Keep up the good work.
if you have a 1000 engine in the mini, no wonder you get these lean peaks at acceleration, carb is too big ?
Yes , that is most likely the issue
hi!The E10 petrol does it damage the SU carburetor?
not as far as I know, off course it has less or no lead in it so the fuel is more dry as they say. In each case I have not seen it, which does not mean that it is not possible
@@D3Sshooter thank you!
Absolut perfect video.
what books do you recommend for Weber 32 DRT carburetor ?
Hmmm, I will need to look that up as I have not worked those before
What a great video! Thank you for explaining it all so clearly. I may have a basic question about the oil you use at the 24:20 mark. you mention it to be "SAE grade 20". Does this mean that it is engine oil 20W50?
Some people do use engine oil , but that is typical multigrade, what I use is monograde..
@@D3Sshooter dank u wel voor het beantwoorden van mijn vraag.
Would you happen to have a recommendation or two for an online SU parts supplier in the USA? Great videos - thank you for making them!
Sorry , I don't .. The UK is your best option
@@D3Sshooter Thank you. I have found some UK suppliers online that seem legit. I was hoping to avoid the costly shipping, but it is what it is. Thanks again for making these videos. They are a great help to SU newbies like myself.
I love this series on AFR and tuning your SU carby.... BUT..... is there going to be a final episode? You've shown getting the data from AFR, you've shown how to base tune your SU... but what about aligning the SU to the data that you have gathered.. and seeing the SU perform? I am a massive fan of your videos. I started with the spray booth videos - as I intend to build one. Keep up the excellent work!
Thank you for the comments.....yes there is a tuning video in the making... that should come out in two parts...
Do you use vacuum gauges for fine tuning?
Yes, `i do for dual or more carbs..
@@D3Sshooter So it's not necessary for a twin choke Weber like the 32/36 DGAV in my Ford Taunus?
WHAT IF THE CARBS DOESN'T HAVE ANY TAG?
Then just look at all the parts, most have a number or marker on them. Of course you need to disassemble it first. With all that you can esthablish the baseline on that carb. You will need to look it up on the SU reference manual. If it is on a car, then you can also look up the standards for that SU on that specific car. The SU manual provides a listing for cars. Of course it could have been fitted afterwards. That is why, its best to check all the part numbers and compair
@@D3Sshooter THANKS
That was a very intimate intro...
A smaller Venturi will provide a higher velocity of air flow past the jets, thus meaning more fuel is drawn thru the jet. Too large of a Venturi will not provide sufficient air velocity and thus insufficient fuel.
Indeed, the main issue here is the balance between the stations on the needle and needle type and the piston position as that alters the venturi