How to Replace Front Brakes 09-14 Ford F-150
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2024
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1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace your own worn, squeaky, fading old brakes. This video is applicable to the 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Ford F150
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2009 Ford F150 Truck
2010 Ford F150 Truck
2011 Ford F150 Truck
2012 Ford F150 Truck
2013 Ford F150 Truck
2014 Ford F150 Truck
🔧 List of tools used:
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ogs/1AX...
• 13mm Socket 1aau.to/ow6/1AX...
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/oka/1AX...
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/ob2/1AX...
• 3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet 1aau.to/ow6/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/oy9/1AX...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/ow6/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oo2/1AX...
• Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/ohd/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/ogB/1AX...
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/ocm/1AX...
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Check out our playlist:
Ford F150 2009-2014 12th gen: • Ford F150 2009-2014 12...
Ford Auto Repair Videos: • Ford Auto Repair Videos
How to Replace Brakes with Parts from 1AAuto.com: • How to Replace Brakes ...
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/KD/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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I have done MANY brake jobs on vehicles with abs. Never opened the bleeder valve and never had an abs unit damaged.
Great video first. Second, I learned the hard way, replace your rubber/flexible brake lines. I did a break job on my F 150 due to excessive heat coming from the front end rotor (drivers side). I replaced both sides ( the vehicle just had a brake job done, bought it used). New rotors and pads and even a caliper on the drivers side. Within 30 miles, same problem. I replaced the front wheel hub ( 4WD ). Still, same problem. Finally, took it to Ford dealer where I bought it. It was the brake line collapsing and not letting it release the fluid back to the master cylinder. No problems, but, low and behold, the other side started the same thing. I changed the hose ($22 bucks ). I always removed my calipers and never let them hang by the hose while changing pads or rotors. Cost me 180 dollars for 2, 22 dollar parts. I even inspected the brake lines and they we not spongy and looked to be in good shape. Just to help y'all out in case this sounds familiar, change your lines, cheap and easy. My loss can your gain. Thank you for your attention.
I have been having this issue no matter what I tried. I didn't think of the brake line collapsing. Hopefully that's my fix🤞 thanks for the info!
And your video is exactly why I don't let just anybody work on my car! GREAT attention to detail, thank you! How many of these other guys are hitting those lugs too hard with the air impact or not even hand-starting them - both of which end up breaking studs, NOT greasing those pins, NOT opening the bleeder screws, OR NOT hand-tightening the lugs at the end!? Keep up the good work!!
I just replaced my pads and rotors on my 2014 STX SPORT yesterday. I bought everything directly from the dealership using the VIN number. I preferred to buy OE vs aftermarket, my preference of course. In the video she is using the old style pads, “ the inboard pads have the half moon like I called it”. The new style pads are all the same now, at least for F150 models. I supposed they realized some folks out there were installing them wrong. This is a really good video.
I just used this video to change the front brakes (pads and rotors) on my 2011 Ford F-150 SVT Raptor. Everything was perfect. Thank you.
+Albert Ouellette Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I've watched the videos for both front and rear brake r/r, and I've got 3 out of 4 wheels done. Excellent instruction, it's already saved me HUNDREDS of dollars from the dealer and got me to finally use all the tools I've collected over the years. My 2014 Super Cab is 160k miles of snow and salty roads in Ohio... Haven't been able to use the parking brake since I bought it 3 years ago.
I like your voice, I'm not an English speaker,but your voice is nice and clear I can understand very well, GOOD JOB, thanks
Probably the best HOW 2 video I’ve ever watched! There are plenty of other videos that will show how to get it done but y’all showed the right way and included all the torque specs. Thanks
Thanks for including all the torque specs
Great Video. For the DIY folks that bleed their own breaks, I highly suggest using safety glasses, you do not want to risk getting break fluid in the eye.
+William Kerley Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Excellent tutorial ! I have been doing this for 30+ years (and I'm kinda OCD), I learned a couple of new things.
+Chris Ederer Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
This video helped me out tremendously. Although double clicking a torque puts additional tensile stress in the bolt, beyond the set torque value. Doing so torques the bolt beyond whatever the wrench is set at and is not a good practice.
Very well done. I'm grateful for the info about opening the bleeder valve to avoid damage to the anti-lock system. YAH Bless.
You were very helpful, first time replacing the brakes pads for my 2013 f150 and you made it very easy to follow instructions, thank you very much, I tried the truck and very smooth and they work great . Thank you .
doing a brake job on my 2012 f150 today for the first time and i was super nervous but this comment restored my faith!
great video, nice to see a lady mechanic..instructions were clear and not too fast paced! Thank you!
+Reb Furr Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Every one knows that you NEVER leave a caliper hang by the brake hose especially with those large dual piston calipers.
Kudos to 1A Auto and Sue for making a truly professional quality video. You not only gave a great step-by-step, but you also dropped in a few valuable tips. I'll have this video queued up on my laptop in my garage when I tackle the brakes on my 2014 F-150. Thanks!
Excellent video! Clear, straightforward, and the mechanic was super knowledgeable as well as a good communicator.
Thank you so much for your clarification on the inner vs outer pad being differentiated by the inner pads having the bumps, cleared up quite a headache I was having!
The only time a mechanic loosens the bleeder screw is when... Is on a new caliper when replacing the old one! Just loosen the master cylinder cap, retract the two brake pistons, and move on. Is it me or do those pads look close to new?? I actually like the cleaning job, and grease, that looks good. It's good that you point out the inner pad, it's very helpful to those who don't know the difference. Just don't touch the bleeder screw!!!!
+Thomas Bergman Thanks for the feedback!
Thats how I always did it. Afterwards spray down n wipe the reservoir if any spilled out and fill it back up.
The bleeder screw tip is a factory tec tip, as she said the reverse flow can damage the abs system, most mechanics today dont go the extra mile or even check torque specs which is why I fix my own
Agreed Never once have I touched a bleeder screw doing just pads and rotors
It might be recommended to use the bleeder valve but its better if you open the reservoir cap 😉
Also you can get air through the valve which can be a problem too.
It's me being an amateur
one thing she did not do that I would recommend, is put some grease on all the ears of the pads b4 u slide them in the clips since they actually slide back and forth during brake operation
This is an instance of false negative bias. look at the materials used the most cost effective and physically efficient method is Graphite spray you have no seals keeping that grease from picking up dust and shredding the pad and shim like wet sanding rather then the graphing shuffle board type of friction.
Use piece of wire to hang that caliper rite away never let it hang from hose. Good job tho
+Jess M Thanks for checking us out, and thanks for posting that tip! 1aauto.com
Depending on the angle of the pull it isn't allways required. She was fine with what she did but, it is allways a good idea.
6:32 She had it but didn't use it earlier. Later on she did :)
Church
@@nonope1774 duh
Never seen any manufacturer say you need to open the bleeder screw. Most of them say just remove the master cylinder cover.
I'm thinking didn't she just introduced air into the brakeline by opening the bleeder?
@@jimsmith7716 --No, the Brake Fluid Reservoir keeps Head Psig. on System if it is at Normal Level...
Thank you . Your videos are easy to follow and understand ! You include tool sizes and torque. ! You do an awesome job !
For those of us that are newbies, even at the tender young age of 72, it would be nice to have a list of tools necessary to do this brake job.
wasnt that the included in the beginning of the video?
Those pads looked great. (I know it's for education purposes)
That was THE BEST video you guys have put out...! KUDOS to the Lady Mechanic....!
Haing the caliper by a wire, not by the break line is the way I always did it.
I cringed when I saw that!
Great vedio. You probably should mention that the brake reservoir needs to be filled. Thanks!
+Maurice M Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
if rotor is rusted on, what bolt / thread pitch do you need to screw into the holes to pop the rotor on?
Thanks for all the straightforward talking points that is mention on your TH-cam Subscribers and Viewers. Very precise communication to me and hopefully for other people. I am a DIY at home person that does his own vehicle, but I would like to know if anyone from your 1A AUTO personal can show an 2017 FORD F250 on replacing rotor and brake pads. The F150 should be the same as what you are showing, hopefully!! Thanks.
Is it possible could’ve left the bleeder valve shut while pushing the caliper piston back allowing the fluid to go back into the reservoir?
This lady should be a future instructor at a school. Excellent instructions. So what, every tech I worked with doing brakes let them hang by the line. I was taught to use a bungee cord, to hang the caliper and everyone would look at me like I'm crazy. Anyhow good job A1
Do I need to take the rotor off if I’m just changing the pads?
AND I just learned there's an outside and inside pad. Should have watched sooner - I would have saved having to buy pads again after a month! Thank you for this video!
Sue, you did such a great job, even the wheel bearing assembly looked new after the job. Thank you for your work.
+Oby-1 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Very calming voice. Learned a few important tips too. Thank you for great video.
I agree withe everything in this video except one thing. She did open the bleeder screw when she didn't needed to. that's going to cause air in the system. The proper thing to do is once you open up one bleeder screw you got bleed the air out of the system with all 4 tires. This is why i leave the bleeder screw alone most of my pad changes.
I'm going to get my phone so greasy while I reference this video.
I’ve learned so much from this video, we’ll done. Thank you
I watched Many many doit yourself videos by TH-camrs , but I gotta say this has a few very important tips that all those dam youtubers never told us and cost us money because it was not done correctly following their directions , so thank you very much to this video 👍
VERY WELL DONE...EXCELLENT VIDEO TAPING AND ALL ROUND EXPLANATION....GREAT JOB FOLKS!
Fist time I've ever seen anyone open a bleeder screw to change out pads I call bull been doing brakes for 20 years and never had a problem with any brake job changing pads and pushing the piston back
Awesome job thanks for teaching us personally I really appreciate it
+Carlos Linarez Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
You can turn the wheel so the calliper is pointing out, this makes it much easier to get at the bolts.
Where do get a “ratcheting style tool” that is used to ouch back the calipers? I did not see that listed in your pinned comment?
Thank you! I lost the bottom bolt on my caliper and seized the caliper. Found out after the auto parts store closed. So early morning parts run and I hope I'm back in business mid morning.
Awesome video. Very well done and easy to understand directions. Thanks
Nice job, appreciate your professionalism. Gonna do my truck at home, thanks:)
Ok so I just installed the brake pads and rotor on the front driver side all went well then did the front passenger put everything back in place like the driver side then finished torqing down the bolts and now the brake caliper is hanging up on the rim when I put everything together
Can I do this without all the lubricant you used on the various parts?
It is a very detailed video and thanks for doing a great job 👍
What kind of tool was that you used to make the pads snug when you undid the bleeder screw?
Any tips on an 2011 f150 where the brake pads that are stuck in the caliper "Bracket" ???
Do you need to replace the fluid from the bleeder screw?
yes, any time any fluid is taken out, it has to be replaced.
After bleeding the breaks like that , Is there anything you have to do with the break fluid once you have all the new brake pads in place?
+1xdramakilla Thanks for checking us out! There shouldn't be much fluid that comes out during this process. It is always best after finishing the job to double check the level to ensure it is still within the recommended level.
"Open the bleeder screws."
HAHAHAHA!! Your funny. In Minnesota if you touch them they break off.
If I really have to keep from back flushing.
I will open a clean line some where near the front.
Northern Michigan too!
Great video. I will do change my pads and let u know. Thanks!!
Great video.... But if you're watching this do not hang the caliper by the brake lines!! Especially when you're applying pressure loosening things and pulling on the line...
Make sure to hang your caliper up to not damage your brake lines!
Nice job, thanks for posting.
I like the nylon coating idea on the caliper clips however looking at the kit you offer (clicked on the link) in your kit the clips don’t look coated and the description doesn’t mention them being coated.
+timalsco Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Hated seeing that caliper hang. Made me tense up.
Let’s be realistic if you have a 2 Post Lift I’m sure there are Air Tools close by. I understand that you want to show that anyone can do it but many mechanics don’t even have a two post lift!
Why after brake replacement and driver it smells like burnt brake. Everything seems working well.??
My Caliper bracket bolts were a bear to remove. They never loosened up as yours did. I'm guessing it was the red loctite that made them so difficult.
+Kim Thanks for the feedback!
Is this the same procedure on 2009 as well?
Anyone know what size or thread are the two bolt openings that are on the new rotors?
Love your simple videos thanks
Great video! Very helpful!
Could you let us know where to get the ratchet that you compressed the caliper pistons with please? BTW, great tutorial
Yea its called a C-clamp.
amazon
You don’t need to replace any of the brake fluid that came out?
Can you do a video for the rear brakes on a 09-14 F-150? Would make sense if you are going to offer the front, why not the rear as well? You dont have a video on that
+T T We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for your service, you are fantastic.
+Jesse Garcia Thank you for the positive feedback and for watching!
Look at smiley face on top piston housing in the dirt lol 🤣
Is it necessary to put grease on the pads where they slide back and forth in the tin clips?
+BAT916 Thanks for checking us out! You do not need to add this grease, it is mainly for pads that are having a hard time going into the tins. 1aauto.com
Excellent video thumbs up. But from now on please push down on your breaker bar when removing your lug nuts. Do not pull up it is bad on your back and if you're pushing down you can use your body weight. Makes things a lot easier.
+Bludduck Thanks for checking us out!
Nice video in general, but I don't believe it is necessary to open up the bleeder. Just adding extra work, and chance you create a new problem like air in the lines or break off the fitting. Instead just open the cap up at the reservoir. Also in case it helps a newbie, after you finish up a brake job always start up the vehicle and pump the brakes several times before putting it in gear so the calipers are back in position squeezing the pads. I had a friend forget this step and drive a vehicle through a garage door before the brakes could engage (no fun and dangerous).
Good video. Use gravity to loosen the lug nuts - push down, not pull up.
+Roger L Thanks for the tip!
GOOD JOB YOUNG LADY, YOU PUT MANY MEN TO SHAME.
Before installing tins can graphite be used? Or on the pins also?
Pure gold !
Great video, good tips I've never known before
+j.dawdle slocum Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
Impressive video!!!
I didn't crack bleeder and got it back together did i damage abs module. I have clicking noise now and hardly any breaks what do i do
Do I have to bleed the brake fluid on every car or just in this case
I think she said just if it has an abs module connection to it, so it doesn’t mess it up
great video!
Is that really 184 ft.lb for the caliper bracket bolt? If so, she is very strong. Should that be 184 N.m/
Yes I was thinking the same thing
125 ft-lbs
Great vids i find them very helpfull.......btw i didnt know Carla from Cheers fixes cars nowadays, great work :-)
can i pay you to do my brakes? excellent job!
I've replaced tons of brakes and have never loosened the bleeder valve. Not really necessary just more work to do.
Other than that good explanation on brake pad replacement
My wife's vehicle's rotors warps shortly after replacing. Do new rotors with pads need to be bed? The term I heard was, "Bed the breaks". Is this needed? If so, how do I do it?
sdereis no that’s wouldn’t be the case. It is more then likely aftermarket rotors which are often unreliable or the wheel hubs where not cleaned properly which can cause the rotors to sit unevenly and warp
Hope this helps!
Excellent very detailed. Thank you.
Any videos on a rear brakes for a 14 model f150 2wd ?
Same procedure lol
Well done.
So we slightly bleed off the valve when pushing piston back so we don't damage ABS or strain the system? Am I correct? Gotta do something like that on the 2010 rear or front brakes and it has the ABS.
I just did this “in my driveway with common hand tools!” Yeah, I watched the Chris Fix tutorials too. Thanks 1A auto also! My kit didn’t have replacement boots or the fancy clips. Whateves. Thanks again!
+Farmer Fred Homestead Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Just one thing. I've been taught to never let the caliper hang from the brake fluid hose.