I'm curious since you didn't cover it, did you bleed the brakes? This is another one of those tool box videos. I just did the front brakes on my F-150 last weekend. Lol. I started to video, but somewhere in there something went awry and my video stopped. Anyway, I find that using an impact to remove those bolts is easier than a ratchet and breaker bar. The only other thing I did different was bleed them just to ensure they're is no air in the system. Also, by putting one lug nut finger tight on the rotor will help keep it from flopping around making it just a little easier. Everyone has their own little tricks though I suppose.
I did not bleed the brakes. Typically on the truck if I'm not opening the line or replacing the caliper I don't bleed the brakes since theoretically no air should be introduced. I've been there with half way through a video and losing the footage. I'll pin your comment since it has lots of great tips in it!
@@SmackeysGarage OK, I certainly understand the air thing. I'm just over cautious I guess. I've had brakes fail on me once so now I take no chances since that was no fun. Lol
Novices should not open their brake system. This creates a huge safety risk where a mistake could occur. I would encourage all drivers to thoroughly inspect their brake hoses, calipers, reservoirs, and master cylinders often. The warning signs will be evident long before a brake failure occurs. I can say as a technician that brake fluid does absorb moisture in the air, and it does need to be changed periodically. The fluid becomes acidic when it absorbes water. This acidity causes the components to fail prematurely, including the hoses, and calipers. This is over the course of many years, decades even. I would have to adamantly disagree with the concept of bleeding as a course of pad changes. This only introduces the possibility of introducing air unnecessarily. I recommend changing the brake fluid on schedule, and changing all the fluid.
@code3responsevideos872 I agree with most of what you said. Most purple never keep their cars for "decades" first of all. I agree with water absorption, and she that someone not knowing what they're doing shouldn't attempt it. I agree that every once in a while it should be changed. But if you replace pads and calipers and possibly a hose you must bleed the system. I was tech for many years and the I can still recall my instructors stressing the point of bleeding the brakes. Now maybe that was old school over stuff that's newer, but I've been doing ever since I turned a wrench and have never had an issue with water or trouble down the road.
@@SmackeysGaragechange my front pads last night. Only compressed the the calipers and now my pedal is super spongy. Any reason that would happen? Guess I’ll have to take the wheels off and bleed the lines 😩
I like that you showed what can happen during a brake job and had to wait the next day to finish. If your lucky everything will run smooth 😂 you got a 50/50 chance of not running into additional problems good video
Hey man your videos helped me replace the brakes all around (pads, rotors & guide pins) for the first time myself! You have the best F150 vids out there!
@@SmackeysGarage Saved me over $1500 in labour if It were to go to a shop! Do you do any videos to address the moon roof? Mine is stuck and won't open (motor still works, can hear it).
Good Info and tutorial Smackey's Garage. I know you cleaned off the new rotors with brake Kleen to remove the packing rust prevent oil from the surfaces. You are too competent to forget cleaning the rotor surfaces, but just a reminder to folks doing this. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Motown.
Thanks! You are exactly right. I did clean off the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove all the oil on the surfaces. Thanks for calling that out!!! Cheers!
Pretty straightforward video. Thanks. My brakes started grinding few days ago and I wonder it’s time to do some brake job. This video will help me a lot 👍
Same here. The factory brakes don't ever squeak or squeal letting you know to change them. That said, I put 130k on em so it's kinda my fault I gota change 1 rotor as well😅
By watching if the guide pins were free and you are not changing the disc only the caliper needs to come off. I believe the pins could also be freed up in place.
Great video! The only thing I’d add is if you have dual piston calipers like I did, you’ll need to use 2 C clamps, otherwise, one will only push the other piston out.
I just purchased new pads for 2017 f150 but all the pads are the same the inner and outer pads is this normal the ones I have took off it has a flat side and the outer pads have 2 dots on them
Flip-flops? I at least have tennis shoes on. The day you drop something on those toes will be the day. You will never work in flip-flops again. I watched how you pull the rotor off. Obviously you had pulled this off previously before the video. I’ve always had to take a rubber mallet and loosen mine up before they would just come off my hands like yours did. Just thinking…? Overall, yes, great video , very pleasant person to listen to. Thanks for taking the time to to help our fellow brother out.!
Ha. Yea I have dropped things on my feet before. Just so much more comfortable you know! I'd never weld in them though... It was a while back, but I may have done the wheel bearing before this video, but I cannot specifically remember. I've used the rubber mallet method too works well. Glad you enjoyed the video and it was helpful!
Excellent video! I just changed my 2017 f-150 brake pads, and I was surprised to find out that oem ford pads now are non directional pads meaning you can’t install them backwards.
You're lucky that rotor came off as easy as it did. One suggestion for folks who live in the snow/rust belt, before putting the new rotor on, clean the hub of rust/corrosion. Then, spray/apply Fluid Film or silver antiseize to the hub flat surface (NOT on the wheel studs). This will prevent the new rotor from rusting to the hub and make it easier to remove on the next brake service.
I have the same model truck. My left front brake when lightly applied makes a very very slight clank clank clank rotational vibration noise. It has been doing this since brand new. Rotor was replaced at 200 miles. It still does this and I never took it back to the dealer. Brakes work great. Any ideas on what this could be? Truck currently has 6012 miles,
That sucks... I'd check to see if the slides are free on the calipers. Seems like they should be being so new. Might also be able to see if there is any weird wear on the brake pads. If that doesn't work, I'd try bleeding the brakes, then checking to see if it is the calipers. Let me know if you have any luck.
Great video, thank u had no idea going in but really helped about to do my front and made look easy… if possible re upload with different angles as far as placement for pad like close up but already does. Suffice
Glad it helped! Unfortunately it doesn't work that way where I can reupload it with other views. I'll take that feedback towards my other videos I do though. Appreciate the input!
You can also use a 4-lb sledgehammer or 3 lb or so too tap on your breaker bar to losing those bolts and you won't have to put so much stress on your body
I use the Milwaukee Mid-Torque 1/2" impact P/N 2861. They don't make it anymore but you can still buy it for crazy money. I added the latest version to the description of the video. You can also pick it up locally at a home depot or similar store. I would highly recommend it.
I would ask for help from someone who knows what they are doing. It’s good to have someone watching over your shoulder with something as important as brakes.
I'd check the parts diagram on tasca for any missing parts Did you remove the slides or any hardware? It might be possible to put the bracket on the wrong side of the steering knuckle as well
I look for visible scores, a lip on the rotors, or feel if they are warped. You can also look up the "service limits" on google for your rotors to see what the minimum acceptable thickness is before they need to be replaced.
Not sure exactly which one you are referencing. If you can give me a time stamp I can look. It probably appears I’m going to opposite because the wrench is pointed at me rather than away from me
Just out of curiosity, I noticed on 90 models F150s the wheel torque is around 100 which is pretty standard, on my 91 and 89 Mustangs is like this too but in 2000 and up models it climbs to 140, that's quite a bit or torque for lug nuts, why is that?
200 and up F150s? They did start using larger lug nuts on the vehicles. I believe the 90 F150s use 1/2 while the 18 uses 14mm. That + higher towing capacity on the trucks required it.
Not sure about the torque spect on ford f150. 180 ft pound for lug nut? 250 ft pound for caliper mounting bolt? You seem to remove that easily without break bar
Some of these trucks are having brake hose failures. It might be worth changing the hoses and bleeding with the proper break fluid which is some type of Low Viscosity brake fluid.
Great video; you do GOOD WORK with ATTENTION TO DETAIL and you're willing to buy new Ford parts, where many people would just use the old parts. - John 3:16
Why did u take of the front caliper brackets? U install the new pads with the bracket on so should be able to take the pads out with the bracket on also
lubricating the pad clips is not advised. The lube will collect brake dust and turn into a concrete like substance. I've seen it many, many times. The only place you should use lube on any brake is the pins or any other slide that is protected from contaminates such as the slide pins with their rubber boot.
Which rebuild kit? You can still get the slides / bolts from Tasca. www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-mount-retainer-kit-al3z2c150b?c=bD0xNCZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWYtMTUwJnk9MjAxOCZ0PXhsdCZlPTUtMGwtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D
I'm curious since you didn't cover it, did you bleed the brakes? This is another one of those tool box videos. I just did the front brakes on my F-150 last weekend. Lol. I started to video, but somewhere in there something went awry and my video stopped. Anyway, I find that using an impact to remove those bolts is easier than a ratchet and breaker bar. The only other thing I did different was bleed them just to ensure they're is no air in the system. Also, by putting one lug nut finger tight on the rotor will help keep it from flopping around making it just a little easier. Everyone has their own little tricks though I suppose.
I did not bleed the brakes. Typically on the truck if I'm not opening the line or replacing the caliper I don't bleed the brakes since theoretically no air should be introduced. I've been there with half way through a video and losing the footage. I'll pin your comment since it has lots of great tips in it!
@@SmackeysGarage OK, I certainly understand the air thing. I'm just over cautious I guess. I've had brakes fail on me once so now I take no chances since that was no fun. Lol
Novices should not open their brake system. This creates a huge safety risk where a mistake could occur. I would encourage all drivers to thoroughly inspect their brake hoses, calipers, reservoirs, and master cylinders often. The warning signs will be evident long before a brake failure occurs. I can say as a technician that brake fluid does absorb moisture in the air, and it does need to be changed periodically. The fluid becomes acidic when it absorbes water. This acidity causes the components to fail prematurely, including the hoses, and calipers. This is over the course of many years, decades even. I would have to adamantly disagree with the concept of bleeding as a course of pad changes. This only introduces the possibility of introducing air unnecessarily. I recommend changing the brake fluid on schedule, and changing all the fluid.
@code3responsevideos872 I agree with most of what you said. Most purple never keep their cars for "decades" first of all. I agree with water absorption, and she that someone not knowing what they're doing shouldn't attempt it. I agree that every once in a while it should be changed. But if you replace pads and calipers and possibly a hose you must bleed the system. I was tech for many years and the I can still recall my instructors stressing the point of bleeding the brakes. Now maybe that was old school over stuff that's newer, but I've been doing ever since I turned a wrench and have never had an issue with water or trouble down the road.
@@SmackeysGaragechange my front pads last night. Only compressed the the calipers and now my pedal is super spongy. Any reason that would happen? Guess I’ll have to take the wheels off and bleed the lines 😩
Your videos are awesome, extremely helpful as I find my front wheel bearings/ brakes this am. Would not have been able to do it without these videos
Thanks! Glad it helped!
That hook idea to hold the caliper is genius!
Yea I really like it. The front control arm had the perfect hole for it.
I like that you showed what can happen during a brake job and had to wait the next day to finish. If your lucky everything will run smooth 😂 you got a 50/50 chance of not running into additional problems good video
Yep. That is about right! 50/50 it goes smooth.
Hey man your videos helped me replace the brakes all around (pads, rotors & guide pins) for the first time myself! You have the best F150 vids out there!
Thanks! Really appreciate it!
@@SmackeysGarage Saved me over $1500 in labour if It were to go to a shop! Do you do any videos to address the moon roof? Mine is stuck and won't open (motor still works, can hear it).
nice video and love the old Mustang in the garage !
Thank you!!!
Good Info and tutorial Smackey's Garage. I know you cleaned off the new rotors with brake Kleen to remove the packing rust prevent oil from the surfaces. You are too competent to forget cleaning the rotor surfaces, but just a reminder to folks doing this. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Motown.
Thanks! You are exactly right. I did clean off the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove all the oil on the surfaces. Thanks for calling that out!!! Cheers!
Pretty straightforward video. Thanks. My brakes started grinding few days ago and I wonder it’s time to do some brake job. This video will help me a lot 👍
Thanks it isn't too bad a job. I'd review the manuals online as well.
Same here. The factory brakes don't ever squeak or squeal letting you know to change them. That said, I put 130k on em so it's kinda my fault I gota change 1 rotor as well😅
@@NewEraMusic972 wow, that’s impressive. In my case it was 62K cause been hauling stuff a lot and got kind of hard foot 😂
The torque spec,s on the bolts are a must . Thank you
You are welcome!
I'm just impressed your doing this in flip flops..
In the summer, most of my car work is done in flip flops unless there is hot metal or shrapnel involved! 😂
Thanks for the video.. Are usually Compress the Pistons when it’s still on the vehicle. It’s a lot easier. Just a heads up. Thanks so.
By watching if the guide pins were free and you are not changing the disc only the caliper needs to come off. I believe the pins could also be freed up in place.
Great video! The only thing I’d add is if you have dual piston calipers like I did, you’ll need to use 2 C clamps, otherwise, one will only push the other piston out.
Thanks! That’s a good tip. I usually leave the old brake pad in and push in the center. That way you get even pressure on them.
I just purchased new pads for 2017 f150 but all the pads are the same the inner and outer pads is this normal the ones I have took off it has a flat side and the outer pads have 2 dots on them
Kudos to you. You are incredibly flexible, I cannot sit like that much less do some wrenching.
I probably have a little bit of time left to sit like that when working on the truck... ha
Does the 2018 have the inside and outside pad design like the 2015?
Flip-flops? I at least have tennis shoes on. The day you drop something on those toes will be the day. You will never work in flip-flops again.
I watched how you pull the rotor off. Obviously you had pulled this off previously before the video. I’ve always had to take a rubber mallet and loosen mine up before they would just come off my hands like yours did. Just thinking…? Overall, yes, great video , very pleasant person to listen to. Thanks for taking the time to to help our fellow brother out.!
Ha. Yea I have dropped things on my feet before. Just so much more comfortable you know! I'd never weld in them though... It was a while back, but I may have done the wheel bearing before this video, but I cannot specifically remember. I've used the rubber mallet method too works well. Glad you enjoyed the video and it was helpful!
Excellent video! I just changed my 2017 f-150 brake pads, and I was surprised to find out that oem ford pads now are non directional pads meaning you can’t install them backwards.
Thank you! They seem to be changing things very often! I guess it makes it a lot easier on us and no chance to screw it up lol.
@@SmackeysGarage Yep! Literally the only way to screw up is to install them with the pad facing you.
A few of my lug nuts are rounded off..definitely time too replace them with one peice ones. It’s always nice to have a 21-1/2” socket just incase.
Yea, that definitely happens a lot on these trucks. Happened on my last truck and happening on this truck
You mentioned you went to ford for the caliper pin rebuild kit, by chance do you have a part number for that?
I see it in the video, thankyou!
Check to see if this fits your truck. JL3Z-2C150-A
You're lucky that rotor came off as easy as it did. One suggestion for folks who live in the snow/rust belt, before putting the new rotor on, clean the hub of rust/corrosion. Then, spray/apply Fluid Film or silver antiseize to the hub flat surface (NOT on the wheel studs). This will prevent the new rotor from rusting to the hub and make it easier to remove on the next brake service.
That’s a great tip. I’ve used that before. Thanks for sharing!
Do you have the link or part number for the replacement brake pads and replacement rotors that you used?
I added the links to the video description. You can purchase them from Amazon, Rock Auto, or Ford. Cross reference the part number with your truck.
I have the same model truck. My left front brake when lightly applied makes a very very slight clank clank clank rotational vibration noise. It has been doing this since brand new. Rotor was replaced at 200 miles. It still does this and I never took it back to the dealer. Brakes work great. Any ideas on what this could be? Truck currently has 6012 miles,
That sucks... I'd check to see if the slides are free on the calipers. Seems like they should be being so new. Might also be able to see if there is any weird wear on the brake pads. If that doesn't work, I'd try bleeding the brakes, then checking to see if it is the calipers. Let me know if you have any luck.
Great video, thank u had no idea going in but really helped about to do my front and made look easy… if possible re upload with different angles as far as placement for pad like close up but already does. Suffice
Glad it helped! Unfortunately it doesn't work that way where I can reupload it with other views. I'll take that feedback towards my other videos I do though. Appreciate the input!
You can also use a 4-lb sledgehammer or 3 lb or so too tap on your breaker bar to losing those bolts and you won't have to put so much stress on your body
That’s a good tip
Good video. Which model Milwaukee impact did you use?
I use the Milwaukee Mid-Torque 1/2" impact P/N 2861. They don't make it anymore but you can still buy it for crazy money. I added the latest version to the description of the video. You can also pick it up locally at a home depot or similar store. I would highly recommend it.
Hey! I’m brand new to working on my truck and wanting to know if this job would be too much for my first one. Thank you!
I would ask for help from someone who knows what they are doing. It’s good to have someone watching over your shoulder with something as important as brakes.
After replacing the rotor and putting the bracket back on there is basically no room between the rotor and the bracket. Any idea why?
I'd check the parts diagram on tasca for any missing parts Did you remove the slides or any hardware? It might be possible to put the bracket on the wrong side of the steering knuckle as well
For the front . I removed the 2 13mm bolts and the caliper will not slide off? It sounds like it’s hitting something. Any suggestions?
You could try compressing it in place with a large c clamp if it still looks compressed. It may be getting stuck on the rotor if there is a lip.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks for the advice 👍I will give that a try. It looks like it’s getting stuck on the studs from the brake pad to the piston
Great tutorial. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Was this 4 wheel drive?
My truck is 4wd.
we don't need to put on maintenance mode to replacement front brake pads and rotors?
Electronic parking brake is rear only.
@@SmackeysGarage thank you l really appreciate
Thanks for the video. I used your other video to do the back. How many miles did you have on your truck when you did the front?
No Problem! I had just under 60k. My front caliper slide was frozen and causing premature wear.
@@SmackeysGarage thanks. I just changed them all at 105k. The front still had 25%, but the back were about gone.
That's good to know. My truck spends a lot of time in stop and go traffic, so that could play a part on why mine only lasted 60k.
Did you change your rotor to? You didn’t specifically mention it in the video, but looks like a brand new rotor when you assembled it back together
Yes I did.
How do you know if you need to change rotors?
I look for visible scores, a lip on the rotors, or feel if they are warped. You can also look up the "service limits" on google for your rotors to see what the minimum acceptable thickness is before they need to be replaced.
How many miles did you have before your first brake pad replacement? Appreciate your video! Peace
50,000 miles. Mine went bad due to a stuck slide. They still had some life on them. Thanks!
im curiuous but when took the bolt off from caliber shouldn't it be righty tighty and lefty loosely, it looks like your over tighting the bolts
Not sure exactly which one you are referencing. If you can give me a time stamp I can look. It probably appears I’m going to opposite because the wrench is pointed at me rather than away from me
He y what tires were they?
Goodyear Duratracs
Thanks!
@tomstrickland5504 no prob. They look nice but as they age they get really loud
Very good video. Thanks
After 50,000 miles replace the bracket?
I had an issue with my slides rusting in the bracket. It isn’t something you typically have to do.
Just out of curiosity, I noticed on 90 models F150s the wheel torque is around 100 which is pretty standard, on my 91 and 89 Mustangs is like this too but in 2000 and up models it climbs to 140, that's quite a bit or torque for lug nuts, why is that?
200 and up F150s? They did start using larger lug nuts on the vehicles. I believe the 90 F150s use 1/2 while the 18 uses 14mm. That + higher towing capacity on the trucks required it.
Good looking truck and awesome how to 👍🏻
Thanks Yellow Hammer!
So let me get it right since this is my weekend project you dont need the brake service on when doing the fronts?
If you have an electric parking brake it is in the rear only. Doesn't hurt to have it on while you are doing the fronts.
Not sure about the torque spect on ford f150. 180 ft pound for lug nut? 250 ft pound for caliper mounting bolt? You seem to remove that easily without break bar
Caliper mounting bolts are 187 ft lb and the lug nuts are 150 ft lb for 3/4 ton F150s of this gen.
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Appreciate you checking it out!
Some of these trucks are having brake hose failures. It might be worth changing the hoses and bleeding with the proper break fluid which is some type of Low Viscosity brake fluid.
Very helpful...thank you
You’re welcome!
Great video and tips!👍
Thanks Mitch!
Great video; you do GOOD WORK with ATTENTION TO DETAIL and you're willing to buy new Ford parts, where many people would just use the old parts. - John 3:16
Thanks! Appreciate it!
Nive vid my man!!!
Thank you!
@@SmackeysGarage no, thank you!
Posting the Ford part number for the replacement pin kit would have been nice.
JL3Z-2C150-A. Check to make sure it fits your truck
Why did u take of the front caliper brackets? U install the new pads with the bracket on so should be able to take the pads out with the bracket on also
I had a frozen slide that needed to be replaced. It was easier to take it out and do the work.
lubricating the pad clips is not advised. The lube will collect brake dust and turn into a concrete like substance. I've seen it many, many times. The only place you should use lube on any brake is the pins or any other slide that is protected from contaminates such as the slide pins with their rubber boot.
Muy útil su video, michas gracias
Why not jack it up in the middle and put blockers in the rear of the wheels?
Rear has electronic parking brake but you could put the blocks back there. I also like jack stands underneath. Just a habit.
How did your rotor just fall off lol
I got extremely lucky! Especially living up here in New England.
Ford and other ocal auto parts dealers no longer sell the rebuild kits, you have to order them online.
Which rebuild kit? You can still get the slides / bolts from Tasca. www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-caliper-mount-retainer-kit-al3z2c150b?c=bD0xNCZuPVNlYXJjaCBSZXN1bHRzJmE9Zm9yZCZvPWYtMTUwJnk9MjAxOCZ0PXhsdCZlPTUtMGwtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D
Great video but why are you doing brakes and flip-flops? You could have a better grip standing with tennis shoes instead of flip-flops just saying.
That’s pretty much what I wear when I’m working in the garage… I know… I know
You do easy "vacation" jobs in flip-flops with a drink lol
He got it done no?
You didn’t have my Shop teacher. No work boots or any jewelry = zero for the day…
David Freiburger on Roadkill does his stuff in flip flops. Not my thing, but to each his own.
👍
Ases muy largo ese video
The 2-piece lug nut is one of the dumbest designs I've ever seen for a part that has lots of force put on it at least 2-3 times a year... 🤦🏼
Mine are typically replaced with one piece ones.
Don’t use an impact and they won’t get stuck in your socket 🤦
It's more that they are swollen. They aren't one piece lug nuts.
Yes, you should never use an impact on two piece lugs.
Weird ad. Some girl talking about erectile dysfunction.
i had a 69 MACH!
Nice! There are awesome! 351?
TITLE TALKS ABOUT FRONT BRAKES. WHY ARE WE WORKING ON BACK WHEELS?
Are you sure you watched the right video? This video is all about replacing front brakes.
Must be nice to have shelby sitting in garage.Looks like a 1969 , is it a bigblogk?Not a big Ford fan but it looks nice! I'm more a Yenko camaro guy!
It’s a Mach 1 big block. You’re right it’s a 69! Thanks! I’d love a Yenko!
You should clean the bracket so the pads move freely
That's a good tip to add.