Ender 3 v2 Dual Blower Fan Shroud
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2021
- Fan Shroud: www.thingiverse.com/thing:489...
Fan Kit: WINSINN DC 40mm Fan Blower 24V for Cooling Ender 3 / Pro Series, Dual Ball Bearing - 40x10mm 4010 Brushless Turbine Turbo with Air Guide Parts (Pack of 4Pcs) www.amazon.com/dp/B07R97ZSF6/... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
On the side that didn't print nice, that's because of insufficient cooling on that side. Kinda funny.
This video is helpful. Thank you for making and posting it. I have a V2 and will be attempting this work on my own unit based on what you've shown here.
This is what I was looking for since have an extra 4010 part fan from the assembly that came with the E3V2. I installed creality's Direct Drive upgrade kit that comes pre--assembled, all I had to do was move my extruder over.
I printed the whole thing on PETG, started assembling it, the realized that this wouldn't work with my direct drive set up, it doesn't have the screw holes in the right places nor that rectangular hole in the back behind the Hot End.
Now I am making modifications to get it back printing so that I can print another fan shroud kit that actually fits my set up.
Thanks for the video.
Ayo drop the files if you figured it out, I also came to the realization when I tried to install on my direct drive v2
It's a fantastic little cooler. Looks alot better if you print it face up with support ! make sure to get the back duct some one added in the remixes :)
Are you talking about thing 4928888? to blow the air directly on to the hotend heatskink? I saw your remix to open the fan up, 👍 Thanks.
Instead of soldering the blower fans together.
Fit JST plugs to each fan and on on the wire from the printer, then make a “Y” link lead, and connect the 2 blowers to that and the other end to the printer.
That way, if one fan fails, you can just unplug that fan and swap the one out. 😉👍🏻
Nah, if one fan fails, then the other wont be far behind, just replace both they are low cost.
@@TheWeepingCorpse holy 1 year post reply Batman 😂
I've been using JST connectors and putting them on everything on my printer, you can make a splitter cable for the blowers, but the good thing about JST connectors is they are the same as what Creality use on the motherboard. No more soldering and cutting wires every time I mod my printer or change a fan.
wich jst ? 🤔
there are more type and now i have the wrong one's 😌
JST is a brand name, not a style of a connector
Thanks for the cool design on this printer head. With a tiny bit of modding it works on the Voxelab Aquilla.
Good to hear. I didn’t actually make this design btw, all credit goes to the author in the link.
Hello Digital, can you explain what kind of modding. I really like this and would like to know if im savvy enough to do what needs to be done to fit on the aquila
@Chris_6 sure you do. I use tinkercad and fusion for my cad work. But for this, I needed to wire in one more 24v fan. I had some replacements, and so I had to splice in the 24v power supply for the fan already in the factory hotend. It's not overly complicated but could burn your printer down or get electrocuted if not done right. There are lots of videos and guides online to help anybody who wants to do some upgrades.
@Chris_6 The Aquila was effectively an ender3v2 clone, so most ender parts fit.
Thanks for the video. I have a VOXELAB Aquila and bought the same replacement fan kit. Looking for a shroud where I can use both fans I found this and your video. I'm going to work on this to fit on the Aquila. You should do more videos, you are very good at it. Thanks again.
Thanks for the kind comments! I hope it works for your Voxelab Aquila.
You got my sub! Thanks man!
I wish it had screw holes for the front fan to make permanent. But looks amazing and looks amazing. Also to tight of a fit for some of the fans I had to make adjustments on a slicer.
The front fan is in there so tight. It’s not going anywhere. Been using it flawlessly now for over 6 months. Also PLA+ has been fine, no warping at all.
Easy enough to remember; Red and yellow, black and blue
superb walkthrough man
Thanks!
@@mattpker printing them now :)
I'm looking to add a few upgrades to my printer and this dual fan shroud looks like a good next step from the single stock fan of my Voxelab Aquila, where cooling quality depends a lot on the direction in which I print. As there are already many comments about this, I assume it is safe to use PLA for the print. Did you have any long term issues with it, especially on longer prints? Would it maybe be a good idea to coat it in something heat resistant like waterglass?
Also, thank you for the assembly guide. I will definitely be using it when I get around to printing and installing the shroud.
Did you do it yet?
@@urgamecshk Yes, I printed it in PLA 1-2 months ago and it performs pretty well. It's more quiet than the stock shroud while getting a better airflow, and I didn't have problems with it deforming even when printing hot materials like ASA. Do keep an eye out for warping though, as warped edges can hit the cooling fan duct if it's bad enough.
There isn't really a need to coat the shroud in something heat resistant, although that would probably make it last longer.
I've been running a PLA+ Santana Printer fan remix on one of my printers for more and a year with no issues.
It is amazing to me how much quieter the Voxelab Aquilla gets with a printer fan cover vs the stock. I printed one ( a Santana remix) of my ender3v2 for my first Vox and it was a huge difference on loudness. The factory fan setup is really loud. lol.
love the design of this fan duct, but want to use dual 5015 blower with 4020 front fan cant seem to find a remix of it, would you happen to know where to find one?
Do you know if this design will accept non-stock hot ends? I have a Phaetus Dragonfly BMS and am having trouble finding a shroud with dual blowers that fits around it. It's 24mm wide.
I've had an issue where the back plate doesn't push onto the 2 original heat sink threads go. I am using an aquila x2 (ender 3 v2 clone) just wondering if u had to hit them on with any force?
My only gripe is that i would have to cut my cr-touch to get it to fit. Any chance you have the step files for modification?
Is it possible that you can do a waterbowl test and upload? Thanks
Is there a remix of this that uses a magnet to hold the front cover closed instead of a screw and its designed to fit the stock hotend for the Ender 3 V2?
thank you bro
This is just what I looking 4 🤗
i have this setup but i used the stock ender 3 fans and now i'm having stringing issues. my retraction distance, speed, and filament temperatured were the same. could it be just the fans?
Thanks for the video. does anyone mind answering what the extra holes around the square in the middle are for?
I don't know if I'll get an answer here since the video was over 1 year ago. However, I would like to ask something. I have installed a 12v radial fan, but I also want to install 2 pieces. now I would like to know if you can block 2 ventilation to a connection (like you in the video)? Are both fans still running at full power or are they drawing power from other fans?
would be really grateful if someone could tell me.
Thanks so much been looking for a video like this going to be changing my fan to 2 12v for a quite print tomorrow so wish me luck
Thanks for your very helpful video.
Quick question please, with BL or CR touch the prints come out better even if the bed is warped, or still have to level the bed?
Thank you
The bed still needs to be as level as possible and it will compensate for slight warping, but if the warp is really bad you should just get a new bed.
The hinge screws that I used from the original fan are too long? Are the holes in the cover supposed to be filled? They don't go through, they're maybe only 2mm deep. Do I need to drill them out?
Just screw them all the way in. They should be longer then the hole, that way they grip and stay in.
Hey nice job! I was hoping to add a fan to cool the extruded motor because it has been overheating recently and causing the filament to melt and get stuck. Am I able to just splice in another fan with the existing one and power 2 fans?
Splice it in with the hot end cooler. Not the filament cooler. You could also get some passive heat sinks for NEMA 17 motors.
What kind of screws did you use to attach to the blower?
Bought a used Ender v2, Came with this monstrosity attached to it.. Was looking at it today trying to figure out how to even open it. I have a CR touch coming tomorrow so looks like i'll be taking it somewhat apart.
This is a great setup and I am working on the same thing at the moment but I was wondering how you connected the fans together? Much appreciated
If I had to guess, 24v fans should be wired in parallel so they stay 24v. If you have 12v fans you wire them in series so the 24v supply is split between them.
Nice job man, will try this mod soon.. Question why could you not use the factory heat sink fan?
You can! I‘m using the stock heatsink fan with this design.
Could you leave the link of the piece to place the bl touch? I can't find any that serve me 🙏
Great design! Thinking about replacing my Satsana fan duct with this one. What voltage fans did you use? I'm thinking about buying winsinn fans but not sure what voltage to pick. The default blower fan is 24v so 2x 12v winsinn fans should be best right? You link to 2x 24v winsinn fans but they don't run on full power then?
I’m pretty sure you have to use 24v fans, unless you get a buck converter to convert the voltage to 12v. The winsinn kit I linked in the video description works and is 24v.
Danny, that's not how voltage in parallel works with a load like a fan. If you wire two 12vdc fans in parallel to 24vdc, both fans will see 24vdc and they'll both be damaged. Same goes with series. There's a small voltage drop across the fan but likely they'll still be damaged.
Unless you want to get a converter for 24 to 12vdc, you have to use 24vdc fans and wire them in parallel. They'll both see 24V and the board will supply current to both appropriately.
You could wire 2 12v fans in series, and that would effectively "split" the voltage between the two. However, this does potentially create other issues. For example, if one fan wears a little faster than the other, the voltage required to spin the fan will become increasingly different. As one fan pulls more voltage, the other fan will receive less. In the same way, if one fan fails, the other will get the full 24v and get fried, too.
Best option: use fans rated for the proper voltage. (In the case of the Ender 3, that's 24v. You can confirm this with a tester, or check the internals. It's usually printed on there.
Next best: Install buck converters to reduce the voltage to 12v. This also introduces additional issues/concerns that I won't get into here, but you can do some research and find them out.
Worst option: use 2 12v fans wired in series.
Impossible option: Connect your hotend to a radiator fan from a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 🙂
Good luck with your mods!
@@daviddeyoung5710 How can I get the All Wheel Differential Drive out of the 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and into my dual gear extruder? I need more power! Wiring in parallel is essentially like buying old Christmas Tree lights at Wal Mart, in the 1990's. The fluorescent bulbs will continue to receive power if one bulb goes out. A series, however, is when one xmas light bulb goes out and the whole series of the colorful lights will not power.
@@mattpker Did you wire the 2 fans parallel?? You know that this means that the final load is 12 v ?
The left fan is covered by a BL touch, which blocks the air suction. So, may be it is not the best idea how to place the fans. Anyway can you see any difference in printing quality compared to a stock fans solution?
The BL touch is hardly blocking any air flow, it still blows very strong. And the part cooling is cooling from both sides now, so yes it is improved. I have been seeing less stringing then previously and I can run the fans at 50% speed for less noise.
hell yeah thank you man.. i ordered the same fans a little while back and been waiting to install them, I may have to give this a go.. does it cool better or perform any better? and is it a noticable different as far as weight?
It allows me to run the fans at 50% which is much quieter plus it seems there is less stringing because it hits it from both sides.
Did you print this in PLA or PETG?
ive only got PLA on hand but being that its not in contact with the hotend im assuming it wont have issues with heat related warping
It has been fine with eSun PLA+ so far.
I’ve used paramount pla and it works fine. No warping or melting and I’ve had some very long prints on it and print at 230C
the files that you have in the description, do they fit with the CL touch or did you need to modify the model?
At 10 minutes into the video I explain this. No I didn't change the model, but I did have to shave down the CR Touch so it didn't hit the fan blades.
Great design and great explanation,. I tried to print one of the parts (Airducts_V3) and when
removing from the bed it broke in two parts., The structure between the back plate and the fan ducts seems to be weak. I printed the part using PLA+. Can you please confirm the filament you used please.and also cura settings. Thanks
I used eSun PLA+ with default Cura settings. Maybe your having bad layer adhesion? Try increasing the printing temperature. Some people forget with PLA+ you need to up it from 200c to 210c.
going to see if this fits on an ender 3 neo hotend.
Hello, thank you for this video! can i use this fan shroud with 1 normal fan and one blower fan? I want to try this out and later use a noctua fan and 2 more quiet blower fans.
or is it recommended to use a blower fan if you want to have your 3d printer silent?
How well do you think PLA would last in an enclosure at ABS temps? Should I just print it with PETG?
I made Satsana cooling from PLA, everything is fine, there were no PLA temperature problems
it's very good, can you design more with BMG extruder directly?
This isn’t my design, sorry.
Will this work with a direct drive attachment?
Is PLA+ enough to withstand the heat when printing? hows your experience after some time using it?
It is still holding up over a year later.
Can you give an update on how the fan shroud is holding up? have you reprinted it from pla+. Is it warping being close to the hotend?
No warping in over 6 months. Has been working perfectly.
@@mattpker Thx for the update. Going to print these tomorrow morning.
@@xaea-1240 good luck, let us know how it goes!
will this work with a ender 3v2 neo hot end?
Will this work with a direct drive conversion?
Hi, will this work with a Max Neo?
I just set this thing up, but the blower fan cause a lot of vibration and I hear it while it's printing, do you get this too?
Nope. Maybe try tightening it all down? You might have just got a bad fan that is off axis or something.
what's different between sunon and V3?
Now it cools down pretty crazy. Do you suggest cutting speed to 50% ?
Yes I run it at 50% fan speeds now.
@@mattpker do you change the voltage on the board or its not needed?
@@alexguertin7261 no
is the fan on the front the same as the ones cooling the nozzle?
No, the fan on the front isn’t a blower fan.
I love this design and tried it last night… unfortunately I found the airflow for layer cooling to be lacking… compared it side by side with my stock set up and I could feel a ton of air coming from the stock set up. From this I could tell airflow was at best half of stock. That was only trying one fan but stock only has one fan. Either it’s just me or the ducts are just to long and open for the little blower fan.
I wonder why that is: I am using this shroud for around half a year and I literally had to reduce the part cooling to 50%.
@@Schnabulation not sure either… the duct was a very very tight fit for my blower fans but that should be good… couldn’t find any leaks that could be causing it. I’ll probably try to figure it out again soon
I installed two fans and wired them correctly and the one fan takes precedence over the other, I have tried other fans, is there something I am missing?
Same problem here.Did you find the solution ?
es compatible con la ender 3?
How is the fan noise compared to the stock fans and shroud?
Because it’s two blowers, you can turn the fan speed down to 50% and it is much quieter.
@@mattpker did you have to change the voltage somewhere ?
@@alexguertin7261 no I did not
I'm doing this can you show the proformence
Where do you get the skrews
I didn’t need any extra screws, every screw you remove you use for this new shroud / fans. I explain in the video where the screws go.
Anyone compare this with minimus with stock fan?
Nice Job , STL is available ?
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4897631
Screw size for the hinges are M3x12mm just fyi.
Good to know.
I bought taps and a set of small metric cap head screws and nuts.
Every one should have these on hand for building.
Will this work with the Ender 3 V2 Neo?
No sorry
where can i download cr touch mount bro?
It works with the mount that comes with the CR Touch.
Will this fit an ender 5
No, only the Ender 3 v2 backplate.
does this work on the ender 3 pro?
No, the bracket holding the hotend is different on the Pro. This will only work on the v2.
@@mattpker there's literally not 1 design for the ender 3 pro with double 4010 fans, it's so frustrating
I’ve modified this to fit a Ender 3 pro.
imgur.com/a/z3KnG8y
@@Br0d0n where can i find your mod 🤔
Its works whit ender 3 v2 neo ?
I do not know, but probably not.
@@mattpker thanks !
serves in ender 3 v1?
No, I don’t think it will work for the original Ender 3. The backplate is different.
@@mattpker damn, now I'm finishing printing, I'm going to have to adapt it somehow. do you know how to do this?
@@Smokegeekcustom I don't have the original ender 3, so I have no clue. Sorry.
hi is it suitable for ender 3 pro
No, the backplate is different on the Ender 3 pro. This will only work for the Ender 3 V2.
@@mattpker But with some modifications to the backplate, could it work?
@@fidonol I really don’t know, sorry man.
Model?
Model what?
It’s and Ender 3 v2 as stated in the title and there is a link to buy the fans in the description.
hello, I really like your work! I had a question, do I need to buy 2 24v fans or 2 12v fans to cool the nozzle? I would be grateful if you reply. thanks. good work
Has to be 24v, otherwise you have to get a buck converter to change it to 12v.