How to Recover Failed 3D Prints
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ค. 2024
- If you ever have a long #3Dprint fail, it's a horrible feeling. Can you recover a failed 3D print, so you don't have to start from the beginning? In this video, I'll show you how.
#3DPrinter #3DPrinting #Recover
00:00 - Introduction
01:34 - Measuring Your Failure
07:49 - Easier/Faster Method
09:17 - Involved (More Accurate) Method
15:58 - Running a First Test Print
18:44 - Final Print
20:35 - Assembly
21:16 - Conclusion
3D Models:
Nikko Industries Deathstroke Samurai Helmet
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If you have any tips or tricks you'd like to add, please leave a comment! If you have any questions you'd like me to address in a future video, please let me know!
The Ender 3 Max what did you have to do since the unboxing video to get it to work
Oh man this is a fantastic video!
1. I need to start saving my print files not just the gcode for this exact reason.
2. So happy to see you only printed a small slice to test and see if it fit before continuing on. That’s exactly what I do as well when this happens.
You can then just fill/sand to fill any overlaps.
Great great video!
Thanks man! This is one of those videos that came together by having the right problem at the right time. I hope it can help some folks out.
I printed a 15.5" high Homer Simpson and the wood filament clogged and failed at the top of Homer's head so I scaled and printed a cowboy hat and glued it on and it looks amazing, you cant tell the print was a fail.
I should've added the "just print a hat" technique! LOL! Nice save!
aslong as you can home without crashing into the part (or home it yourself in the console by telling it how high it is) you can recover the print by editing the gcode to start where it stopped
Nice, Kris! As always, pretty good tricks! That helmet is really really cool!
Thanks Lucas!
here's an idea: move the z axis in 1mm steps until you can freely slide a paper between the last layer without any issues. A sheet of paper is about 0.1mm. The difference between the original height of the model and the printed height will be the Z point where you want to cut the model. You can test this with a simple XYZ cube in order to figure out the perfect offset. You don't want oo much squich but still want the last layer to fuze.
I can try the direct method in a future video. Thanks!
Great idea
Thanks for this one bro. My fail could still be saved even though its off the bed. Learnings fun.
Any time!
Great video bud! Man you just saved me HOURS! I’ve been trying to figure out how to finish a print that failed due to power outage… well on my way now! Liked, subbed!
Great to hear! I hope it works for you! Thanks!
Great technique. Really helpful, as ever.
I appreciate it! I hope you don't have to use it but, if you do, I hope it saves you some time!
the methods that I use to determine the z height:
1) If I was there and just saw the the print fail, I quickly go look at the Z value on screen, and go to the terminal in octoprint and one of the recent gcode commands that was send to the printer. I can then open up gcode in notepad, search (CTRL-F) for that command. and use that to determine which Z value (or sometimes even the last successfully printed gcode command) it failed at.
2) similar to what was mentioned by Mr. Freak, if the machine did not power off (and no shift in z axis), after the hotend has cooled, move the hotend to print, and then manually move the Z to just the top of the print very carefully (eyeball it, without using any paper).
3) if the machine has lost power or there was a shift in z axis (current Z value no longer accurate), as long as there is room to re-home z (which is the case most of the time), you can do the same thing as number 2 after re-homing z. (move the x and y axis closer to home to avoid knocking over current print)
I don't use Cura to resume print, I just edit the gcode file in notepad so that it prints directly on the failed print. I need to find the exact z value, which is easy if I used method 1 as above. If I relied on 2 or 3, I will have to determine what is the nearest z height, which is going to be a multiple of the layer width(assuming uniform layer height throughout). in most cases the last completed z height would be the measured z value divided by layer height, rounded down). Then I search in the Gcode file for Z[z height + layer height], and it should get me to the gcode that start of the first layer that failed. Then, to create a gcode to resume, you need to cut all the gcode above this current line, not including this line, all the way to and including the "g28" code (initall home command) near in the beginning of the gcode file. Before deleting this part, make sure you note what was the last extruder position (last line like: G1 X109.584 Y119.566 E3337.38566, the extruder position is 3337.38566)then you want to insert the following in the area of the code you deleted:
g28 X Y ; home x and y;
g92 E[last extruder position from the code that was cut out] ; sets extruder position so that it will not extrude out a whole bunch of speghetti when it starts to resume
g92 Z[starting Z height] ; sets the current z height ****this will only work if you had manually set the hotend to this starting z-height like with method 2 or 3 as above***
save the file and then send it to the printer to resume
if you have the room to re home Z, it's usually better to insert the following:
g28 ; home all - ****definitely make sure current head position and x-extrusion will not knock over print when doing this***
g92 E[last extruder position from the code that was cut out]
G0 F300 Z[starting Z height] ; go from z = 0 to the z height at which you will resume printing
This method assumes that the model is still adhering to the bed, and it will resume printing directly on currently failed print, so no further gluing needed.
Nice vid. Hey I have that exact caliper. I also have a leveling bubble that might help with this and I need to get my good monitor fixed. Nice haircut, bro!
Fantastic video 👍 I've had a few faild prints and I just throw them away and start again.. from now on I will be saving my files on big prints and doing this... 🙏 Thank you so much... 🍻👍
I'm glad it helped! Good luck with the recoveries.
Kris, a great video, should help a lot of people. A good point that you made, that I have been doing since day one is to document your projects. I'm old school and came from an IT background. We lived on documentation, but it saved our butts many times. If you document every project, you may waste some time, but at a later time you may be so grateful that you did.
Thanks David! It really helps to document if you want to reproduce anything.
Damn thanks so much 😂 almost had a heart break , I just returned to my g code file and used the negative value, the infill doesn't look correct but it at least didn't miss the y axis like before, I stupidly placed a marker pen in one of the holes i had made thinking that the job was done on that part forgetingthat even if the nozzle is done on that part the entire thing still has to move around 😢
Great repair!
Thank you! Cheers!
Hiya Chris. Hope life is treating you well. Had a Mandalorian Nightowl helmet fail at 25% remaining. How i wish I'd thought about this then. We're turning the 3/4 helmet into a dog bowl stand. I can use this technique to print the rim to support the bowl, cheers fella. Id already decided for the base of the stand to use an extra thick raft to use as a base when I print the successful helmet. Now I've got the top sussed and next time I'll resume the print when the machine takes an unofficial teabreak.
I hope this helps out in the future! Other channels have covered other solutions, so be sure to search around for different solutions for different scenarios.
@@kerseyfabs thanks fella.
With all this time on my hands I've been scouring the internet for all the great info shared by the 3d community. And what a refreshing change to find a community opposed to Gatekeepers, which is usually the first thing that you run into when you enter the world of a new hobby 😁
I have not found that in the 3D printing community and I'm glad you've found the same. If you run into it, let me know and I'll steer you back to the right people.
I wish I had seen this yesterday. I just had a very similar failure that I ended up failing 2 more times trying to print the repair parts. Thankfully the second failure let me check the model part and I had sized it wrong. After my second reslice it worked out great.
I hope it can help you in the future! I'm glad you worked out your issue.
My method of saving a large file print is similar... 1st instead of using a ruler or calipers like yours, I (read the print height on the LCD Display) to find out where it stopped or failed. That works if you see the fail in time... So for example, if it is at 210mm where it stopped printing, then I will (like you) take note of that height, remove the print, then import the Stl file again, but this time (lower it into the minus range for example -210mm so it can be sliced and just finish the balance of the file. Obviously, the last thing to do is glue the two parts back together. I also do this if I want to add mass to the print to give it weight. (I use sand mixed with PVA to make a pourable cement or paste. Pour it into the cavities, leave it to dry, then glue the top back on after. But as long as your file is centered in the slicer or any changes to the position are made, obviously, this has to be taken into account before slicing. So yeah, drop it below the base (0)-line to continue... it works for me all the time...
Danke schön
Great video
Thank you!
Excellent video and solution! For whatever reason the repair made me think about hair transplants, or glueing on a toupée.
Glad you enjoyed it! It must be the particular model I have for an example. 😆
Hi, I am relatively new to 3D printing and I own an ender 5 pro that has just recently begun to squeak loudly. I checked all mechanical parts but nothing has improved. It is difficult to locate exactly where the sound is coming from but after much effort, sounds like the sound comes from the internals, aka the drivers maybe? The board is the new 32 bit board with silent drivers that has been coming with the ender 5 pro lately.
Any ideas what the issue is?
Nice job.
Thank you! Cheers!
What do you do if you split the code and slice it (like in the easier and faster method) but for some reason when you go to print, the X,Y,Z all read "?" (ender 3)
Good job. Seems like with a CR-6 SE, many of these steps could be automated and augmented, and brought into the slicer software. Given my failures due to flaky filaments progress in that direction seems really intriguing. (I'm a better software developer than 3d print producer!).
I wish that slicers had a measure tool. It would be so helpful and pretty easy to implement
You're right! That could really save a step or two!
Thanks, Kris. One question, wouldn't you want to take your first layer height into consideration when doing your initial height measurements? When the print fails, you should still have your z height displayed on the screen, if you know your first layer height and you have your z height you should be able to get your exact layer number.
The fail will be missed since the filament can still ooze and make the top surface rough and you cant tell what layer is the cursed one
wont it auto home and wipe out the existing build when it starts with the new gcode?
I only need to cut the G-Code after I measure the print height with the nozzle itself instead of using the caliper,
then go to your Gcode and reach your G1/G0 ZXXX.xx F#### and start over from there
experience some intentional fil prints to know how much you bite in to print for an overlap.
If you do it that way though, it assumes no loss of power and you only have one chance to get it right. If you use my method, you can test the replacement part first.
@@kerseyfabs you are right,
my way where one time try, I considered fails when the seam was obvious but it saves my big prints aswell.
I use 12V 150A Battery directly powering my printer with 2 diodes and power loss is no more.
I even used Encoder on Repetier firmware but the filament was slipping badly and abandoned it after.
Hello Kersey and thanks for the great channel, I have a lulzbot taz 6 and I’m currently trying to apply your method but I’m facing an issue, as soon as I start the print the auto leveling kicks in and if I don’t abort the nozzle will hit the existing print on the board, do you know if I can turn off the auto leveling or any one have a fix for that ?
Thanks
In your slicer's start g-code, there should be a G29 command that should be starting that procedure. Either remove it from your slicer and reslice or edit that gcode directly (the file it created) and remove the G29 from the top of the file.
What makes this fail happend? This happens for me when I have print 2/3 on a print, every time, smaller or larger prints don’t matter. (but it continue moving but no filament comes out)
Ended 3 neo v2
I have a question since my Ender 5 pro didn't show up And I have to make a purchase again what would you recommend should I go for the same one or ender 3 or cr6 se but keep in mind I don't want to make upgrades by myself need every thing to be done. What would be your recommendation.
If you can afford it an Ender 5 Plus
If it’s just a filament issue, you might also try printing direct on top of your failed print. As long as haven’t reset the printer and haven’t moved the printhead manually (so no homing needed), you can lower the printhead with increments equal to the layer height of your print. When you reach the correct height to continue printing, read the Z from your screen. Then open your G-code in a text editor and find the layer with the corresponding Z-distance and remove all previous layers. Edit your start G-code (remove homing, set the correct temperatures if these were different for the first layer(s) and remove prime lines etc). A little more complicated but more safe is to start you print within the last few lines of the infill of the previous layer and use a lower speed (change F…. to a low value) for these lines so you can stop quickly if the Z is incorrect. Save your changes as a new file and start printing again (you could start without filament to see if the Z is correct and restart again with filament if all is fine. If not, you probably use a Z-offset you have to correct for. Try this a few times with a test print and you know what to do when disaster strikes...
I like this idea but it's more involved. I would love to explore this in a follow-up video.
This is basically what i do whenever i run into this problem. As long as the part is still stuck securely, this works. The first resumed layer may sometimes look overextruded because part of it was already printed before the failed point but still worth it on large prints.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, it's a little more involved and requires a basic understanding of your G-code (eventhough when created with a slicer like Cura/S3D etc the comments in the G-code make it relatively easy to understand what you have to do), but it is probably faster in the end (no Meshmixer, no sanding, glueing etc.). Could be usefull to have a checklist/memory items list ready somewhere (like don't turn the machine off or you'll lose your Z height, keep your bed at temperature, don't move the printhead manually or use X/Y homing (no Z) before you start printing again and a list with changes you have to make to your (start) G-code). If you loose the Z (if you have turned of your machine) it becomes a little more trickier as you have to measure the height manually with a caliper to determine the exact layer and use something like G92 to set the current Z, as you probably can't home the Z-axis with a print on your bed.
Nice Vid! Why not just resize a single support blocker so that if you need to delete (like you did in this vid), you just have to delete one or two? :)
Not all versions of Cura (including Creality Slicer) have that resize option.
Do you think it would be better to have the z end stop located at the top of the printer instead of the bottom to aid in the recovery of prints? To recover the print, you would have to modify the gcode to not print a purge line. The auto home will start above the print. The only problem is really how much plastic was left on the layer that could be a problem. I think cura coasting might help?
While it would help with print recovery, it wouldn't help with bed offset. Coasting wouldn't help in this case because the filament typically is what fails.
You can resize the support blockers as well, so you could have used 1 big one to block the top.
While I found the ability to change custom support size. I couldn't find the ability to change support blocker size. Maybe it's in the latest version of Cura?
@@kerseyfabs oh right, you were using creality slicer ;). Do you often switch between slicers?
@@tonnictv I was using Creality Slicer this time because this was in connection with a printer review.
Very, very good video !
Yesterday same thing happen to me. I have just purchased a Creality cr6 Max, and I am experimenting.
After one day and half, it happened, the filament from the Creality dryer box got stuck...
I stop the print, and removed the printed section from the printer bed not knowing what to do.
And to make things worst, I did not save my STL file.
Is there a way to recover the settings from a G-Code files ? I at least need to find the scale.
I did measure the height of the printed piece, and that is 218.7 mm but that is the only value I have so far.
Any comments to help me print the missing section ?
Thanks! Check out this video from CNC Kitchen: th-cam.com/video/-wjE8eDiKWg/w-d-xo.html
It will discuss editing the gcode to start at a certain height. Although, if you've already remove the print from the build plate, it may not work for you.
@@kerseyfabs
Thank you for your reply !
I have already look at that video.
Hi Kris. Thanks for yet another helpful and informative video. On my Ender 5 I keep getting a different type of failure and I wondered if you could throw any light on why it happens and if the method described in this video can help fix the problem. When printing, my Ender 5 now gets a build up of filament around the nozzle. Sometimes I can clean this unused filament off as printing is taking place, but other times a large blob of it drops onto the model itself. To make matters worse, often when this happens the printer carries on printing but with the X Y centre moved. Ideally, I would want to restart the print from where this 'shift' happened, but I can't as the 2 parts are stuck together. Any ideas?
Let's start at the beginning. Is the build up of filament coming from the print onto the nozzle or is it oozing out from the junction between the nozzle and the heating block?
@@kerseyfabs Thanks for replying Kris. It's not clear to me which it is, but I think it's most likely from the print onto the nozzle. I never thought of that possibility until you mentioned it but now that you have, I think that could well be what is happening.
@@Stagedoordigital I'd first start with extruder calibration. Check out this guide and see if it helps out: mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration
@@kerseyfabs Thanks for that Kris. I will give it a try. Am I right in saying that a USB socket on the Ender 5 is the way of sending gcode directly to it?
That's correct and I have a video on how to connect.
Flip the cal over for a more square measurement. It's harder to see but you can lock the thumb screw before you move them.
Thanks for the tip!
If you used a raft at the bottom, do you measure the bottom of the raft or on top of the raft to the failure??
It would be from the top of the raft if you're offsetting just the model.
ok so correct me if I'm wrong, you should maybe state at the begining that you're NOT describing a way to *resume* a failed print, but to basically print the remaining part of a print which you then need to glue onto the first part - correct ? Not saying this is not a solution, it is, in certain circumstances - thanks
A 23 minute video?! Are you feeling okay, Kris? 😄
I know! I think I covered it though. 😆
Possible to get a link to the glue?
Absolutely! Here's a link to order direct: www.3dgloop.com/shop/pla-gloop
A lot of 3D printer retailers sell it too.
so sure enough i created a new gcode file with a negative z offset, started my print and the nozzle tried to auto home and slammed right into my build....
Print other half. Got it.
I was really hoping this video would show how to continue the print on the model, rather than just printing the other half and attaching it. considering how long it was, at least
Sorry I didn't cover that. Fortunately, CNC Kitchen has you covered with a terrific how-to video: th-cam.com/video/-wjE8eDiKWg/w-d-xo.html
@@kerseyfabs I've seen that a few times, but I still find it a bit confusing to do
@@PureRushXevus If I get some time I'll see if I can do a quick follow-up.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks, that's appreciated. I didn't mean for the original comment to come off as spiteful or anything, I was just genuinely surprised a video that long was only to show off printing the remaining layers separately and glue it on :p
Next time try the caliper upside-down for surface to work with for depth/height
Thanks for the tip!
@@kerseyfabs thanks for all that you do to help all of us in the 3dprinter community
Is this the ender 3 max?
Yes it is.
36 hour print. Filament runs out. Second print as first 36 hour failed after 35 hours. So when filament on second attempt ran out, those dickheads at Reality decided to code into the software for the print bed to cool down. yep even though it had been on for 36 hours no no. They turned it off so the print came unstuck too. I want to know how to stop the machine having control over the bed. I think I shall just add my own switch to the bed and remove the machine wires from it so it cant ever mess with it again. Im an auto electrician see.
Cnc kitchen does alot better detail for saving failed prints.
CNC Kitchen does a terrific job in his video about saving prints. Keep in mind though that his method and my method are different solutions. I've used his method and it works great as long as your print is still attached to the bed and you can successfully get your print head on the right layer. In the case where those are not possible though, my method will work. There's more than one solution and his video was fantastic!
or if your fu*ing windows decide to log off due to "Customer experience improvement program"
You taking to long got board
Options:
A) Move along.
B) Turn up the TH-cam playback speed.
C) Skip around to what you'd like to see.
None of these options require a snarky comment. 😎