its easy to remember this way tdc 1 = #1 both valves, (the rest is just alternating) #2 Intake, #3 exhaust, #4 intake, #5 exhaust. Tdc 6 = #6 both valves, (alternating again) #5 intake. #4 exhaust, #3 intake, #2 exhaust.
Hey take off the pour spout right up front by the upper rad hose (untwist like a lid) there is a nut inside, on the side of that nut is the TDC mark, and a mark on the outside where the spout was there is another mark line those marks and you have TDC but other then that your on the money with everything else, like I always say you have to learn somehow
every cylinder (&piston) has a TDC and a BDC. TDC is "Top Dead Center" which is the highest point in the stroke that the piston travels, BDC is "Bottom Dead Center" is the lowest point in the stroke that the piston travels. there is a TDC/BDC for intake stroke (when the intake valve opens and cyl fills with fuel/air) as well as for exhaust stroke (when the exhaust valve opens and the piston pushes the spent gasses/exhaust out of the combustion chamber). the pistons reach TDC in firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. you adjust the valves when both valves are closed on compression stroke TDC, so you would rotate the engine over and as the intake valve opens/closes, and the piston is at the top of it's stroke, that is TDC for that cylinder/piston. being that valves are operated by the camshaft, there are multiple valves opening/closing at different times in the stroke. so, you can adjust multiple valves at once without having to rotate the engine over & adjusting valves in firing order, 1-5-3-6-2-4. though that's the easiest way to do it without confusion. keep at it man, i think we all recognize that you're learning and can also recognize that you're not afraid to try.
Hey proud! TDC just so you know means both 1 and 6 or which ever engine you working on are at the top of its stroke! Number 1 say would be on compression and 6 would be on exhaust! Causing the engine to run smooth! There’s more info to it and I may or could be off a bit but I thought I’d reply for your knowledge! Thank you for the awesome videos, keep on rockin!
Make sure the feeler gauge is a somewhat tight fit when you set the gap. Other than that you did it the way I do all mine. I’ll definitely be buying some merch when I get back to work to help support the channel man. Can’t wait to see what the channel is in a year or 2 and to know I watched it from the beginning
Hey Malachi. from the last video and my comment. what you want to see is when the intake valve side of the rocker arm stop going up, and the exhaust valve side of the rocker arm bout to start going down, That would be consider TDC (somewhat.) if you did it correctly, on the flywheel, there would be marking that would say for example: cyl. 6 tdc. Meaning once you see that, you are at the right location. Remember. These motors are 4 stroke cycle. (Intake - piston is going down, compression - piston is going up which intake valve is closing, power - explosion in the cylinder which forced the piston down, exhaust - exhaust valve opens up and release the soot). you want the piston to be between exhaust and intake of the cycle.
On the flywheel? not sure why they would mark it there since you can't see much of it without the trans out. I know for sure they will have a mark on the balancer, but when the mark on the balancer is at the top you may be TDC on number one or TDC on number six.
They have it marked in multiple spots. They even have it on the fly wheel or flex plate. Some trans have an open spot where you put a sprocket wrench and turn the wheel. ya they also should have it on balancer as well. but I just look at the valves.
When the valves are ‘rocking’ means- end of exhaust stroke ( exhaust valve closing) and start of intake stroke (inlet valve opening). Hope this helps? 😎🏖🌴☀️🇦🇺
I did tdc on #1 and made sure I could push in the locking pin in the back of the case. Did those valves and then rotated 360 and did the others. Worked good.
The feeler Gauge will not stop it you want to feel just a little bit of resistance onthe feeler gauge when moving it back an fourth an hold the screw with your screwdriver and snug the nut down with the wrench and then torque it. If you just torque it they sometimes will turn and tighten the lash up so after you torque it recheck the lash and make sure it feels the same.
LOUD 'N' PROUD you obviously don't know what you are doing and somebody is offering free advice.... So, instead of arguing and trying to act like a know it all, say "thanks, I will try to remember that next time!" If people are watching your videos to learn you should be teaching them the proper way. You don't tighten the nut without holding the screw head, plain and simple.
hunt2eat we were having a harmless conversation? He had questions and I filled him in? What’s your deal man? You clearly read all these responses in a completely backwards way man...
There is no timing marks on the older first and second gen Cummins harmonic balancer. Its done with a timing pin in the back of the timing gear case that inserts into a hole in the cam shaft. The balancer is simply held onto the crank shaft with four bolts and can be put on in any of four positions. We have several from 92 to an 01, all there is on it is a slot cut in it to trip the tachometer sensor that is in no relation to timing of the engine.
Hey man, great vid! I'm needing to do my valve lash on my 94 and I'm wondering how you manage to adjust the valves on cyl 5 and 6. It is just so freaking tight back there.
Just did mine on my 94 with tons of other work done to her. Sure you figued it out by now but L shaped screw driver works nice under the cowl. I just used a closed ended wrench to snug the nut while holding the L shaped screw driver. 18ft pds is hand tight. No need for torque wrench. Just posted little vid of the work i did mainly pics.
Not much meat on the bone. I'd look elsewhere for good instructions. This is just selling swag. The three exclamation marks in the title give it away. Doing a valve adjustment just isn't THAT exciting.
its easy to remember this way
tdc 1 = #1 both valves, (the rest is just alternating) #2 Intake, #3 exhaust, #4 intake, #5 exhaust.
Tdc 6 = #6 both valves, (alternating again) #5 intake. #4 exhaust, #3 intake, #2 exhaust.
Love the fact that you help people understand how to work on trucks great video
Hey take off the pour spout right up front by the upper rad hose (untwist like a lid) there is a nut inside, on the side of that nut is the TDC mark, and a mark on the outside where the spout was there is another mark line those marks and you have TDC but other then that your on the money with everything else, like I always say you have to learn somehow
every cylinder (&piston) has a TDC and a BDC. TDC is "Top Dead Center" which is the highest point in the stroke that the piston travels, BDC is "Bottom Dead Center" is the lowest point in the stroke that the piston travels. there is a TDC/BDC for intake stroke (when the intake valve opens and cyl fills with fuel/air) as well as for exhaust stroke (when the exhaust valve opens and the piston pushes the spent gasses/exhaust out of the combustion chamber). the pistons reach TDC in firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4. you adjust the valves when both valves are closed on compression stroke TDC, so you would rotate the engine over and as the intake valve opens/closes, and the piston is at the top of it's stroke, that is TDC for that cylinder/piston. being that valves are operated by the camshaft, there are multiple valves opening/closing at different times in the stroke. so, you can adjust multiple valves at once without having to rotate the engine over & adjusting valves in firing order, 1-5-3-6-2-4. though that's the easiest way to do it without confusion.
keep at it man, i think we all recognize that you're learning and can also recognize that you're not afraid to try.
Hey proud! TDC just so you know means both 1 and 6 or which ever engine you working on are at the top of its stroke! Number 1 say would be on compression and 6 would be on exhaust! Causing the engine to run smooth! There’s more info to it and I may or could be off a bit but I thought I’d reply for your knowledge! Thank you for the awesome videos, keep on rockin!
Hands down man I gotta say your trying and doing a awesome job. Keep up the good work I watch every video, can't wait to see this thing rip
Make sure the feeler gauge is a somewhat tight fit when you set the gap. Other than that you did it the way I do all mine. I’ll definitely be buying some merch when I get back to work to help support the channel man. Can’t wait to see what the channel is in a year or 2 and to know I watched it from the beginning
You are one of my most favorite people to watch
It makes me cringe when people say "thou" instead of thousands 😂
Dude totally! Actually anything like that. Like "merch" instead of merchandise is very cringe- worthy.
I agree!
Not trying to be critical or people that say that kind of thing...but honestly it kinda bothers me.
Or when people use thousand instead of thousandth. lol
That’s how machinists say it🤷🏻♂️
Just did tons of work to mine. New head leaking hg. Posted quick vid of my 94.
Hey Malachi. from the last video and my comment. what you want to see is when the intake valve side of the rocker arm stop going up, and the exhaust valve side of the rocker arm bout to start going down, That would be consider TDC (somewhat.) if you did it correctly, on the flywheel, there would be marking that would say for example: cyl. 6 tdc. Meaning once you see that, you are at the right location. Remember. These motors are 4 stroke cycle. (Intake - piston is going down, compression - piston is going up which intake valve is closing, power - explosion in the cylinder which forced the piston down, exhaust - exhaust valve opens up and release the soot). you want the piston to be between exhaust and intake of the cycle.
On the flywheel? not sure why they would mark it there since you can't see much of it without the trans out. I know for sure they will have a mark on the balancer, but when the mark on the balancer is at the top you may be TDC on number one or TDC on number six.
They have it marked in multiple spots. They even have it on the fly wheel or flex plate. Some trans have an open spot where you put a sprocket wrench and turn the wheel. ya they also should have it on balancer as well. but I just look at the valves.
1&6 2&5 3&4 are in the same rotation just different strokes of the engine one is exhaust stroke and one is power stroke
Yes you did it right , called valve overlap is what you were looking for and that’s the companion cylinder method same as I use works good .
Long night diesel 12valves ok great! It runs perfect! You’ll see that in tomorrow’s video!!
Good deal can’t wait 😊
Your right ,a diesels a diesel, but $500... that could help me buy a diesel and you know how much I would love one of those
So is he basically getting the top part to touch the filler gauge, and so forth with all of them? To fill the gap
Hahaha i see the beard bro! six in a row let it grow or ready to tow lol loud and proud baby!
When the valves are ‘rocking’ means- end of exhaust stroke ( exhaust valve closing) and start of intake stroke (inlet valve opening). Hope this helps? 😎🏖🌴☀️🇦🇺
Great vid brother, cant WAIT to hear her fire up #TeamLNP
I wish a Prius owner had their windows down on your cold start
I did tdc on #1 and made sure I could push in the locking pin in the back of the case. Did those valves and then rotated 360 and did the others. Worked good.
Good job "Loud n Proud " just remain humble and you'll be everyone's inspiration.
You need to hold the adjuster with a screwdriver when you torque the nut if not the adjustment May tighten up
Chad Gay I kept the feeler gauge under rocker until it was torqued to make sure it didn’t over tighten
The feeler Gauge will not stop it you want to feel just a little bit of resistance onthe feeler gauge when moving it back an fourth an hold the screw with your screwdriver and snug the nut down with the wrench and then torque it. If you just torque it they sometimes will turn and tighten the lash up so after you torque it recheck the lash and make sure it feels the same.
Chad Gay I had them all set so it could slide a little with just a little bit of resistance.
LOUD 'N' PROUD you obviously don't know what you are doing and somebody is offering free advice.... So, instead of arguing and trying to act like a know it all, say "thanks, I will try to remember that next time!" If people are watching your videos to learn you should be teaching them the proper way. You don't tighten the nut without holding the screw head, plain and simple.
hunt2eat we were having a harmless conversation? He had questions and I filled him in? What’s your deal man? You clearly read all these responses in a completely backwards way man...
I’m thinking of buying a 96 12 valve just like yours any suggestions
Dude, you should totally take the sound deadening material off the underside of the hood after you get the engine all back together.
Awesome video man
There’s a mark on the harmonic balancer with a TDC. Get that to where you can see it from the top and you’re there.
There is no timing marks on the older first and second gen Cummins harmonic balancer. Its done with a timing pin in the back of the timing gear case that inserts into a hole in the cam shaft. The balancer is simply held onto the crank shaft with four bolts and can be put on in any of four positions. We have several from 92 to an 01, all there is on it is a slot cut in it to trip the tachometer sensor that is in no relation to timing of the engine.
As always great video !!
Love being able to learn along with you thanks for the vidz
Im looking into getting a 6.7 powerstroke. What problems have you had with yours?
god vid cant wait to see it running
Why didn't you just use the built in timing pin below the injection pump? No guessing that way!
Watch Bruce or watch Greg a
Hey man, great vid! I'm needing to do my valve lash on my 94 and I'm wondering how you manage to adjust the valves on cyl 5 and 6. It is just so freaking tight back there.
Just did mine on my 94 with tons of other work done to her. Sure you figued it out by now but L shaped screw driver works nice under the cowl. I just used a closed ended wrench to snug the nut while holding the L shaped screw driver. 18ft pds is hand tight. No need for torque wrench. Just posted little vid of the work i did mainly pics.
Taught me a lot just by uploading #LNP
Use the timing pin
Hope you let it cool off first..... need it to be cold or at least cool to the touch
Call the dealership service department in your area they will tell ya
Nice cold start man lol #LoudNProudNation #LNPFam
What brand is that green serpentine belt?
Ronnie Dallum probably Gates
thanks for the video!!!!
Thnx bro
Seriously digging the content man. Been subbed since you started last year. Keep up the good work!👍
Loven the merch
Bro. Check out engineering explained. He does really detailed info videos. He does one in tdc. You should definitely check him out
Also check out Power Driven Diesel's channel they do really good.
Can you provide a link for the video you're talking about
You need to change your spark plugs on that dually or your muffler bearing is going to blow up
spark plugs...nice joke :D
Hey Man I can't find LNP Murch store can u get back to me
heres link
www.spreesy.com/loudnproud
#teamlnp
You keep saying I thank so we’re going to a video that someone actually knows what there doing
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Not much meat on the bone. I'd look elsewhere for good instructions. This is just selling swag. The three exclamation marks in the title give it away. Doing a valve adjustment just isn't THAT exciting.
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Turn the fuel screw down, it's waaaayyy too rich.
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