You can do this even easier. You only need to put #1 and #6 in overlap. When #1 is in overlap, you can set intake for 3, 5 and 6. Exhaust for 2, 4 and 6. When #6 is in overlap, you can set intake for 1, 2 and 4. Exhaust for 1, 3 and 5. That's it.
I think that got switched up a bit? When #6 is in overlap, you can’t set the intake or exhaust for #6, but instead you can set it for #1? So I think the correct statement would be “When #6 is in overlap, you can set intake for 1, 2 and 4 and exhaust for 1, 3 and 5. When #1 is in overlap, you can set intake for 3, 5 and 6 and exhaust for 2, 4 and 6”. It’s a bit confusing to say the least. To double check, ensure the valves you are attempting to adjust at each overlap are truly loose before you begin the adjustment. I think what we have here is correct.
@@gpwrinkled You are correct, I fat fingered it after an edit. I fixed it by just swapping #1 and #6. It is pretty obvious on the engine, there is no valve clearance on a cylinder in overlap, and the companion cylinder will be ready to adjust on both intake and exhaust. You don't have to bar the engine over to adjust each cylinder like in the 'best method' shown in the video. You also don't need a splined socket for 3rd Gen Rams, at least not the ones I touched. Just a 24mm socket.
You are literally a god for posting this. I searched for hours the best way to do it, ended up just carefully bumping the key and going to check under the hood. Super long process. Definitely 10/10 doing it this way forever
As a diesel mechanic with 45+ yrs I've used the valve overlap method any make engine, except NTC Big Cam Cummins which you then adjust valves on one cylinder while you adjust injector on another and NTC Small Cam you would adjust the injector first before you adjust the valves. As long as you know the firing order and the running mate to each cylinder the valve overlap method will keep you from making a mistake
@brianawesomenes3796 no problem! Everyone that makes videos on doing this makes it so complicated, so i had to help my brothers! Like and subscribe, i got 40k views but not even a thousand subs, i need to make it to 1k subs and ill start generating income and make ALOT more content. Thank you
I have a 2003 5.9 with 345k miles runs great. I have donde a lot maintenance since I bought it. Valve adjust is next. I have been looking at a ton of vids and by far this is the easiest way. My question is that you just keep turning counter clockwise to move from cylinder 6 to adjust 2? Thank you for the video. 🎉
Is that alternator spline tool you mentioned vehicle manufacturer specific? Or is any generic one suitable for this? Also I’ve found 33 spline and not 36, not sure if that’s what you meant or not
As far as i know they're universal , just type in alternator spline tool on ebay, i also noticed a large allen socket works also i think the one that fits is a 5/8"
thats the way ive always done it, saves so much time. My question is what'd you do for that downpipe? i tried to high mount my tutbo but could never get the downpipe to fit.
Thats a stainless diesel 2g swap high mount pipe. They have a jig when they make them, perfect fitment every time, def worth the extra $ just to get one from them
I like both methods mentioned in the video and the comment both are just as easy. I almost prefer the 124 deal seems faster. But they're both about equal using the overlap method is your safest bet though
@AjReda yes it does, but on a 6.7 its alot harder to access the alternator to bar the engine over, i like to do 6.7s valve half at a time, the harmonic balancer will have a TDC mark on it with a line under it, take a paint pen and highlight this tdc mark, and then get a flex head long handle 3/8" ratchet, and a 6 point 15mm socket and bar the engine over until your paint mark is at 12 o'clock and do the intakes on 1,2, and 4, and exhaust on 1,3, and 5, and then go back under the truck and rotate the engine another 360 degrees until the paint mark is at 12 o'clock again, and adjust intakes on 3, 5, 6 and exhausts on 2, 4 and 6. Sometimes this order will be 3,5, 6 and 2,4, 6 first, because you have a 50/50 shot at which position you will end up at. If the 6.7 is deleted, adjust your intakes to .010" and exhausts to .020", factory 6.7s exhausts are set at .026" due to the extra heat the emissions equipment adds.
@DirtroadSavages change them one cylinder at a time, you can use the overlap method like in this video if you wanna change 1s springs get overlap on 6, etc etc 1-6, 2-5, 3-4, 6-1, 5-2, 4-3. You just need the piston at or near tdc so that the valves can potentially fall in. Use a tork tek tool, for these springs in my video (manton 170s) you need the manton specific tool for the narrow conical design. If you have 60# springs dont even bother installing them. At full lift with the stock cam the stock springs have 245lbs of pressure, and so do the 60# springs, only difference is the 60lb springs have 60 more pounds on the seat in the closed position, which is only good for someone running an exhaust brake. PDDs street 170s are also made by manton and are basically the same thing as mantons 170s, if you are going to upgrade them, get conicals, or leave the stock ones in there. The weight savings with the conicals is astonishing, 1 factory spring retainer weights the same as 5 conical retainers
Block is bottom tapped for these haisley head studs, i always just leave the washers out that go under the pedestal stud nuts, been doing it that way for 10 years now and never had any issues. Valvecovers aren't grinded at all. I recommend bottom tapping your head bolt holes with any 89-current 5.9 or 6.7, this helps decrease upper cylinder distortion and promotes a better ring seal while decreasing wear. Puredieselpower.com sells the correct bottoming tap that isn't chinese BS to make quick work of the job.
That also work on all V8s when the piston on any cylinder is at the top of exhaust stroke in reverse like the video there is an adjacent cylinder at the top compression stroke with both valves closed on low cam. Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024
You're welcome! If you haven't already, like, and subscribe, it really helps, im trying to get to 1k subs so i can start making more videos on here. Thanks!
@@buddymartin7923im not sure because the firing order is different, and i rarely work on 4b/4bt engines, BUT This is the traditional method ~ TDC #1. Cylinder 1 - Intake & exhaust. Cylinder 2 - Intake Cylinder 3 - Exhaust Cylinder 4 - None Mark & rotate CRANKSHAFT 360* Cylinder #1 - None Cylinder #2 - Exhaust Cylinder #3 - Intake Cylinder #4 - Intake & Exhaust
now if i can just my damned odometer to light back up all will be right with the universe.....................................................until i have to fix those damned blend doors! aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can do this even easier. You only need to put #1 and #6 in overlap. When #1 is in overlap, you can set intake for 3, 5 and 6. Exhaust for 2, 4 and 6. When #6 is in overlap, you can set intake for 1, 2 and 4. Exhaust for 1, 3 and 5. That's it.
That’s how we do it, too.
agreed
I think that got switched up a bit? When #6 is in overlap, you can’t set the intake or exhaust for #6, but instead you can set it for #1? So I think the correct statement would be “When #6 is in overlap, you can set intake for 1, 2 and 4 and exhaust for 1, 3 and 5. When #1 is in overlap, you can set intake for 3, 5 and 6 and exhaust for 2, 4 and 6”. It’s a bit confusing to say the least. To double check, ensure the valves you are attempting to adjust at each overlap are truly loose before you begin the adjustment. I think what we have here is correct.
i think there is a wright up by Moparman1973 on the internet
@@gpwrinkled You are correct, I fat fingered it after an edit. I fixed it by just swapping #1 and #6. It is pretty obvious on the engine, there is no valve clearance on a cylinder in overlap, and the companion cylinder will be ready to adjust on both intake and exhaust. You don't have to bar the engine over to adjust each cylinder like in the 'best method' shown in the video. You also don't need a splined socket for 3rd Gen Rams, at least not the ones I touched. Just a 24mm socket.
You are literally a god for posting this. I searched for hours the best way to do it, ended up just carefully bumping the key and going to check under the hood. Super long process. Definitely 10/10 doing it this way forever
I'm so sorry you had to go through that. I hope you are in air-conditioning or something😂
As a diesel mechanic with 45+ yrs I've used the valve overlap method any make engine, except NTC Big Cam Cummins which you then adjust valves on one cylinder while you adjust injector on another and NTC Small Cam you would adjust the injector first before you adjust the valves. As long as you know the firing order and the running mate to each cylinder the valve overlap method will keep you from making a mistake
Definitely saving this one. I've done it with the timing pin forever!
Never again lol
Brooo thank you saved my day way more easier and faster
Just found this video and what a great time saver. Love this method. Thanks man!!
@brianawesomenes3796 no problem! Everyone that makes videos on doing this makes it so complicated, so i had to help my brothers! Like and subscribe, i got 40k views but not even a thousand subs, i need to make it to 1k subs and ill start generating income and make ALOT more content. Thank you
Give this man a follow! Out here doing the lords work.
I have a 2003 5.9 with 345k miles runs great. I have donde a lot maintenance since I bought it. Valve adjust is next. I have been looking at a ton of vids and by far this is the easiest way. My question is that you just keep turning counter clockwise to move from cylinder 6 to adjust 2? Thank you for the video. 🎉
Yes keep turning and them watch 5s valves to adjust #2 to adjust 5 watch valves on 2
Wow this guy is a smart one!!
Thanks I’ll be explaining this to those Cummings guys!!
Thanks for posting this up brother! I'm about to do this on my early 3rd gen
I’m going to try this on my 24V, thanks! Liked and subscribed!!
Seems like a Genius method to me.
This is how i learned 15 to young 36 to old 24 just right 😂. 153624 well firing order, magic #7. Spot 1 adjust 6 or vise versa spot 6 adjust 1.
The old ‘rule of 7’s’ 👍🇦🇺
So after you have it rotated where you want it what do you set the lash at? What’s the exhaust and intake lash supposed to be on these?
Is that alternator spline tool you mentioned vehicle manufacturer specific? Or is any generic one suitable for this? Also I’ve found 33 spline and not 36, not sure if that’s what you meant or not
As far as i know they're universal , just type in alternator spline tool on ebay, i also noticed a large allen socket works also i think the one that fits is a 5/8"
How precise on the overlap? Do you watch for just the point where exhaust starts to open??
Yes as soon as it starts to open you're good to go
thats the way ive always done it, saves so much time. My question is what'd you do for that downpipe? i tried to high mount my tutbo but could never get the downpipe to fit.
Thats a stainless diesel 2g swap high mount pipe. They have a jig when they make them, perfect fitment every time, def worth the extra $ just to get one from them
If anyone could answer this because I've seen multiple clearances what is the gap on a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9
@@chrishensley8584 intake .010" exhaust .020"
I like both methods mentioned in the video and the comment both are just as easy. I almost prefer the 124 deal seems faster. But they're both about equal using the overlap method is your safest bet though
@@Fun-under-the-hood it all comes down to which one you learned first 👌
Fuckin eh! Thanks for this. Been doing it on all of my engine builds for years and for some reason I was overthinking it for my Cummins trucks...
This is how I do every valve adjustment on Avery vehicle. Once you know the motor you know when the valve lobe is180 from the lifter
Did it just the other day. Great video.
Works on any engine just have to watch the companion cyl.
Very simple and easy, thank u
Does this work for the 6.7s as well?
@AjReda yes it does, but on a 6.7 its alot harder to access the alternator to bar the engine over, i like to do 6.7s valve half at a time, the harmonic balancer will have a TDC mark on it with a line under it, take a paint pen and highlight this tdc mark, and then get a flex head long handle 3/8" ratchet, and a 6 point 15mm socket and bar the engine over until your paint mark is at 12 o'clock and do the intakes on 1,2, and 4, and exhaust on 1,3, and 5, and then go back under the truck and rotate the engine another 360 degrees until the paint mark is at 12 o'clock again, and adjust intakes on 3, 5, 6 and exhausts on 2, 4 and 6. Sometimes this order will be 3,5, 6 and 2,4, 6 first, because you have a 50/50 shot at which position you will end up at. If the 6.7 is deleted, adjust your intakes to .010" and exhausts to .020", factory 6.7s exhausts are set at .026" due to the extra heat the emissions equipment adds.
Can you change your valve springs using this method?
Yes sir
Thats exactly how i do all of them
@@JCSDieselPerformanceDid you change them one cylinder at a time? Or 1-6, 2-5, & 3-4.
@DirtroadSavages change them one cylinder at a time, you can use the overlap method like in this video if you wanna change 1s springs get overlap on 6, etc etc 1-6, 2-5, 3-4, 6-1, 5-2, 4-3. You just need the piston at or near tdc so that the valves can potentially fall in. Use a tork tek tool, for these springs in my video (manton 170s) you need the manton specific tool for the narrow conical design. If you have 60# springs dont even bother installing them. At full lift with the stock cam the stock springs have 245lbs of pressure, and so do the 60# springs, only difference is the 60lb springs have 60 more pounds on the seat in the closed position, which is only good for someone running an exhaust brake. PDDs street 170s are also made by manton and are basically the same thing as mantons 170s, if you are going to upgrade them, get conicals, or leave the stock ones in there. The weight savings with the conicals is astonishing, 1 factory spring retainer weights the same as 5 conical retainers
@ man thanks a lot. I might just leave them in there then.
Ty sir
Great job!
The old 855 is the same way!
I’ve noticed you have headstuds but didn’t mill the rockers? Did you shave down the valve covers?
Block is bottom tapped for these haisley head studs, i always just leave the washers out that go under the pedestal stud nuts, been doing it that way for 10 years now and never had any issues. Valvecovers aren't grinded at all. I recommend bottom tapping your head bolt holes with any 89-current 5.9 or 6.7, this helps decrease upper cylinder distortion and promotes a better ring seal while decreasing wear. Puredieselpower.com sells the correct bottoming tap that isn't chinese BS to make quick work of the job.
The fucking bomb brother ….thank you. Going to do this…this weekend.
Awesome video and potty mouth is a bonus!
@@BeADad2447 😅
That also work on all V8s when the piston on any cylinder is at the top of exhaust stroke in reverse like the video there is an adjacent cylinder at the top compression stroke with both valves closed on low cam. Thank you for your knowledge and video's USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024
Thank you!
Thats so awesome
Great
So do the adjustment
bruh
thank you
You're welcome! If you haven't already, like, and subscribe, it really helps, im trying to get to 1k subs so i can start making more videos on here. Thanks!
I'm not sure this is right, but I'd be stupid to not save this in my watch later videos. Thanks!
Easy there, sir. When you say everybody's (a very large word) doing it wrong I don't believe you've actually witnessed that statement. Nuffced
Rock 6 123 skip 2 don2 skip 2 do 1 ... rock one do the rest
there is a faster way than this
And?
Will this work on a 4B cummins?
@@buddymartin7923im not sure because the firing order is different, and i rarely work on 4b/4bt engines, BUT
This is the traditional method ~
TDC #1.
Cylinder 1 - Intake & exhaust.
Cylinder 2 - Intake
Cylinder 3 - Exhaust
Cylinder 4 - None
Mark & rotate CRANKSHAFT 360*
Cylinder #1 - None
Cylinder #2 - Exhaust
Cylinder #3 - Intake
Cylinder #4 - Intake & Exhaust
@JCSDieselPerformance thank you very much. I appreciate your reply and the info!
now if i can just my damned odometer to light back up all will be right with the universe.....................................................until i have to fix those damned blend doors! aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What year second Gen? The bulbs behind the cluster are easy to change.
@@JCSDieselPerformance 3rd gen(03).bulbs were easy. odometer faded away shortly after 550,000 mark
Will this work on a 18 6.7??