You can make finding the max gap easier by first removing the spark plugs. It gives you more control at holding the critical point when making the adjustment.
Lanny, Double checking to see if I can figure out how to quiet down my 81 XS. Adjusted timing chain tension and that took a lot of noise out. Your method cracks me up!!! Been using the very same method on VW's since the early 70's!! You can zip down one side of the heads and then the other with out goofing around with the crank in between adjustments. Thank you very much. ATB, Bill
Thanks Bill for watching my video. It's nice knowing there are other "Old School" mechanics out there. Normally, cam chain and valves are the major source of noise in the XS650 so I can't imagine what other problem you may have. Hope you figure it out. Thanks again, Lanny
@@smutty542 Well, from firing up bike in my shop I do believe everything went as planned. Of course my planned test ride the next morning has been pushed several times by rain. I will get back to you with a report of highway speed noise when I can. Sure was quick and easy. It was interesting to explain what I was doing to a couple of friends that were hanging out. I think it clicked for them when I explained the difference between tappet adjustment and ignition points adjustment. Points open for a short time on the high point of the lobe while tappets are open Until the high point of the cam lobe. Easy peasy!
Yes Wally, this procedure works for most non hydraulic valve designs. Your engine is the same basic design that Yamaha has used since 1981 with the XV750 and the chain drive 920 and I know this way works great on that type of engine. I've done them for years with super performance and no noise.
You are so right about the valves being noisy if you go by the book (Clymer). Thank you for this valuable information. I wish I had come across it years ago. Better late than never.
Interesting, I always set my clearance the way the book says, but I'd set them warm to the warm setting and it seemed alright, but when I started doing it cold and more open it's noisy, today I did it it's even noisier than ever, like valve train damage noisy, Hoping this will help. going to try the 2/4 instead of the current 3/6
This method should help. I've never adjusted valves with a warm or hot engine, always cold. If the tops of your valves are pitted it will be hard to get the noise out without replacing the valves and if you have to do that it would be the perfect time to install elephant foot adjusting screws. I tried a set from MikesXS once and found them sub-par. Contact me about a source if you choose to go that route.
can you do a video on how to adjust the points on early xs models i see videos on other bikes but the xs ones are hard cause i feel theres always some play in the rockers of the points if you could that would be awsome thanks
Thanks for your interest. I haven't really thought about doing a video on XS650 points as most people use Pamco but I can offer some advice. I always set the gap in the middle of the range then start the engine and use a Timing Light (strobe) to make final adjustment. Hope this helps.
Hi, just watched your video...very simple, and I really like the approach. But just so I am clear, you setting that exhaust valve to .006 at it's largest gap, and then you would want to match .006 on the other exhaust valve, correct? Similarly, you stated .003 for the two intake valves (At their highest point/gap), do I have that correct? Thanks!
I'm having a little trouble understanding; so, you had the valve at max clearance (which was .006"); so then, would you want to then adjust the nut so only the ideal clearance fits? (e.g. .004") Am I correct? Should I consult the service manual for the correct clearances, or is it more of a preference/experience thing? (I think it may just be so simple it's confusing me!)
You are correct. Rotate engine while checking valve clearance until you find the maximum clearance. Without moving the crankshaft adjust valve to proper clearance. I do mine at .002 intake and .004 exhaust.
Lanny, I just adjusted my valves with your great video (thanks) now I have a slight puff of grey smoke when throttle returns and my plugs are wet. Bike runs good still and before it was rich blackish plugs but no smoke. Any way you could help?
Absolutely. The procedure was developed for use in the old 1977 Yamaha XS750D which was a shim-over-bucket engine. Fortunately, the shim-under-bucket system you have is one of the most stable valve set-ups out there. Chances are when you check your clearance you'll find them well within specs and you can put your valve cover right back on. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for replying. Great insight that the crankshaft position is secondary to the actual clearance, so the marks can be safely ignored as long as you're TDC on the correct stroke.
Can I ask you where you got these two big bolts behind the points case? they look like torx/allen and stainless steel? The ones on the out side of the rocker top.
MikesXS if memory serves. They are stainless and probably could have been nicely polished if I had taken the time. They are allen. Thanks for watching.
This method has absolutely nothing to do with ignition timing. Pay no attention to the T or F marks when finding the loosest place in your valve. You can take a look when you find your loose spot just to see where they are but you'll rarely see them where you think they should be. Thanks for watching.
Very cool, thanks. So you found the spot where there is most clearance on that valve, correct? Then if you continued this video you would've then taken your .004 feeler gauge and adjusted that valve until the .004 gauge just easily slipped in and out?
Thats right. This is so simple. Sorry if my presentation wasn't clear. Find that point where you have the most clearance and adjust your valve to the desired clearance. You never have to look at those timing marks. Super fast and simple.
Thanks for the video. When this method is used and then I move on to timing, do I disregard timing marks or go by idle? Seems to idle great a bit outside of marks. Begins to sputter in marks. Did cam chain, valves, now timing. Thanks again.
Using a timing light, the "F" should align at idle. Check that your ignition is advancing by revving the engine to 3000 rpm's and making sure the advance mark is spot on. If you're still running points I highly reccomend the Pamco Ignition. Thanks for watching.
I'm inserting the feeler between the valve adjusting screw and the top of the valve stem. If you look close you'll notice that this engine has elephant foot adjusters which I highly recommend.
You can make finding the max gap easier by first removing the spark plugs. It gives you more control at holding the critical point when making the adjustment.
thanks ,have just rephased my motor with a pma as well ,this will solve the problem of no timing marks
Great info Cerritos Yamaha would know they are one of the oldest dealers in the nation alot of desert sleds were built there
Lanny, Double checking to see if I can figure out how to quiet down my 81 XS. Adjusted timing chain tension and that took a lot of noise out. Your method cracks me up!!! Been using the very same method on VW's since the early 70's!! You can zip down one side of the heads and then the other with out goofing around with the crank in between adjustments. Thank you very much. ATB, Bill
Thanks Bill for watching my video. It's nice knowing there are other "Old School" mechanics out there. Normally, cam chain and valves are the major source of noise in the XS650 so I can't imagine what other problem you may have. Hope you figure it out.
Thanks again, Lanny
@@smutty542 Well, from firing up bike in my shop I do believe everything went as planned. Of course my planned test ride the next morning has been pushed several times by rain. I will get back to you with a report of highway speed noise when I can. Sure was quick and easy.
It was interesting to explain what I was doing to a couple of friends that were hanging out. I think it clicked for them when I explained the difference between tappet adjustment and ignition points adjustment. Points open for a short time on the high point of the lobe while tappets are open Until the high point of the cam lobe. Easy peasy!
Yes Wally, this procedure works for most non hydraulic valve designs. Your engine is the same basic design that Yamaha has used since 1981 with the XV750 and the chain drive 920 and I know this way works great on that type of engine. I've done them for years with super performance and no noise.
You are so right about the valves being noisy if you go by the book (Clymer). Thank you for this valuable information. I wish I had come across it years ago. Better late than never.
Thank you this video saved my day did exact procedure and everything’s good.
Glad it helped.
I'm impressed.
Thank you for your time!!
Excellent advice, Thank You!
I love it: "do it this way if you like, or do it the hard way"
Old video but great explanation, thanks!
Thank you very much sir....from across the pond ...I like easy ...ha ha ha
For those in doubt if this is REALLY the way to adjust your valves : it is..... :)
Is there an easy way to do it for the XVS650, an 07? Thanks
Interesting, I always set my clearance the way the book says, but I'd set them warm to the warm setting and it seemed alright, but when I started doing it cold and more open it's noisy, today I did it it's even noisier than ever, like valve train damage noisy, Hoping this will help. going to try the 2/4 instead of the current 3/6
This method should help. I've never adjusted valves with a warm or hot engine, always cold. If the tops of your valves are pitted it will be hard to get the noise out without replacing the valves and if you have to do that it would be the perfect time to install elephant foot adjusting screws. I tried a set from MikesXS once and found them sub-par. Contact me about a source if you choose to go that route.
I'll have to thoroughly inspect them
Yes, .002 for intake and .004 for your exhaust
Lanny Mobley will this method work on an xs400
Sorry for the long wait. Yes, this method will work on any engine that doesn't have hydraulic lifters.
Thank
That helps alot.
can you do a video on how to adjust the points on early xs models i see videos on other bikes but the xs ones are hard cause i feel theres always some play in the rockers of the points if you could that would be awsome thanks
Thanks for your interest. I haven't really thought about doing a video on XS650 points as most people use Pamco but I can offer some advice. I always set the gap in the middle of the range then start the engine and use a Timing Light (strobe) to make final adjustment. Hope this helps.
Hello which of the two options is better, .006 / .003 or .004 / .002 and why ... thanks
I prefer .002 intake and .004 exhaust for the Yamaha XS650. This will get you the best performance with no noise.
Hi, just watched your video...very simple, and I really like the approach. But just so I am clear, you setting that exhaust valve to .006 at it's largest gap, and then you would want to match .006 on the other exhaust valve, correct? Similarly, you stated .003 for the two intake valves (At their highest point/gap), do I have that correct? Thanks!
Yes thats correct. You can run your clearances tighter if you like. As close as .002" for intake and .004" for exhaust with no problems.
I'm having a little trouble understanding; so, you had the valve at max clearance (which was .006"); so then, would you want to then adjust the nut so only the ideal clearance fits? (e.g. .004") Am I correct? Should I consult the service manual for the correct clearances, or is it more of a preference/experience thing? (I think it may just be so simple it's confusing me!)
You are correct. Rotate engine while checking valve clearance until you find the maximum clearance. Without moving the crankshaft adjust valve to proper clearance. I do mine at .002 intake and .004 exhaust.
Lanny, I just adjusted my valves with your great video (thanks) now I have a slight puff of grey smoke when throttle returns and my plugs are wet. Bike runs good still and before it was rich blackish plugs but no smoke. Any way you could help?
MrSpaghettiO
Did you ever solve your issue the smoke after using this method?
Can this procedure be adapted for adjusting shim-under-bucket valves? I've got a Suzi DL650 waiting for a valve adjustment.
Absolutely. The procedure was developed for use in the old 1977 Yamaha XS750D which was a shim-over-bucket engine. Fortunately, the shim-under-bucket system you have is one of the most stable valve set-ups out there. Chances are when you check your clearance you'll find them well within specs and you can put your valve cover right back on. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for replying. Great insight that the crankshaft position is secondary to the actual clearance, so the marks can be safely ignored as long as you're TDC on the correct stroke.
Do you do this for each cylinder? Or only on the left side of the bike?
for each cylinder . .002 intake. .004 exhaust
Is this procedure done on a cold engine ?
Yes, the engine is room temp.
Can I ask you where you got these two big bolts behind the points case? they look like torx/allen and stainless steel? The ones on the out side of the rocker top.
MikesXS if memory serves. They are stainless and probably could have been nicely polished if I had taken the time. They are allen. Thanks for watching.
Cool. Thanks
I will check this system for adjusting the valves clearance
Will this method (seting) 2000 on intake 4000 exhust work on a 1982 xs650 ?
YES
Shouldn't the bike be timed before dong this? then the timing marks should line up using this method regardless of whether you're using them or not
This method has absolutely nothing to do with ignition timing. Pay no attention to the T or F marks when finding the loosest place in your valve. You can take a look when you find your loose spot just to see where they are but you'll rarely see them where you think they should be. Thanks for watching.
Very cool, thanks. So you found the spot where there is most clearance on that valve, correct? Then if you continued this video you would've then taken your .004 feeler gauge and adjusted that valve until the .004 gauge just easily slipped in and out?
Thats right. This is so simple. Sorry if my presentation wasn't clear. Find that point where you have the most clearance and adjust your valve to the desired clearance. You never have to look at those timing marks. Super fast and simple.
Thanks for the video. When this method is used and then I move on to timing, do I disregard timing marks or go by idle? Seems to idle great a bit outside of marks. Begins to sputter in marks. Did cam chain, valves, now timing. Thanks again.
Using a timing light, the "F" should align at idle. Check that your ignition is advancing by revving the engine to 3000 rpm's and making sure the advance mark is spot on. If you're still running points I highly reccomend the Pamco Ignition. Thanks for watching.
unfamiliar with these bikes what are u slipping the feeler gauge under? a tappet?
I'm inserting the feeler between the valve adjusting screw and the top of the valve stem. If you look close you'll notice that this engine has elephant foot adjusters which I highly recommend.
j'ai rien compris
Im no I'm on youtube
Huh?